The text overlay corrected from series to in parallel and I think you are correct the first time when you said the limit switches would be wired in series
That looks incredible. I printed 70 percent of the parts for a primo build for my first cnc and bought all high end electronics. I've gotten distracted with a home renovation
Great question. At this stage there isn’t support for screens on the fluidnc platform, however I have seen some development in possibilities. Maybe something that they will implement down the track, however the web page interface is just as easy to implement. 👍
Hi, I am also interested in a close up look at the electronics and wiring. I've already bought the same drivers and started looking at ESP32s, but became lost as to which to get and how to connect them to the drivers, and also how to power everything. I really like the idea of additional power outlets.
Great questions. I might do a video walk through for wiring if that makes it easier? I would suggest purchasing the 38pin ESP32 and also purchase an ESP32 breakout board to make connecting wires simple and secure. Let me know if you require links?
@@JamieKhau and @Swe Res - I have started to create graphics on my GitHub to help wiring. I'll continue to upload documents over the next week with wiring. Here is the link github.com/NEWTech-Creative/MPCNC
Hi Leonardo! I haven’t gone down this path (yet!)… however servos are super easy to implement for plotters or other applications. Scroll down to ‘rc servo’ section on the wiki to learn how to setup. wiki.fluidnc.com/en/config/axes
Yes absolutely! All files available on my thangs profile. thangs.com/designer/newtechcreative/3d-model/MPCNC%20Primo%2025.4%20-%20Corner%20Brace%20%28no%20cable%20support%29.stl-126481?manualModelView=true&source=Recent
Thanks for your comment! Unfortunately this was not generated by an algorithm, however was drawn by hand using illustrator. It took about 20mins to draw over a still life photo I took. I wanted to draw an image with a continuous line and couldn’t find a program that suited what I wanted, so ended up just drawing myself!
A random selection of different apps! Illustrator is my main go to, followed by sandify.org. You can find a selection on online sites by searching a variation of vector line art converter or generator. Then use your CAM software to turn the vector into tool paths for your CNC! Hope that helps?
Thanks for your comment. I thought I had included with the thangs files, however not sure. Send me an email to newtechcreative@gmail.com and I’ll send through to you.
Nifty machine! Can you add a spindle/router and CNC wood? You've got a vacuum so I assume so, would have been nice to see that in action. It's a really clean system!
Fantastic to hear!! Yes absolutely. You will need to setup independent motor outputs with the limits. I’m setting that up at the moment on my new machine. More info on the fluidnc wiki on this 🤩
@@NEWTechCreative Cool! Good to hear. I'm looking forward to the development to come with FluidNC. Personally I just finished my MPCNC build with SKRpro, Marlin and CNCJs (before I knew about FluidNC) but will certainly hold out on FluidNC anyways until its considered stable. Anyhow. I believe your are making a very valuable contribution to the MPCNC-community by sort of introducing FluidNC to it. Also I really love how you show your respect and appreciation to the MPCNC project here, even though you are clearly way ahead of it with your matilda project. :) Kudos!
Thanks Derrick 👍 I’m using a chrome tubing from the local hardware store. I initially said it was 25mm - however I also took calipers with me to the store to check and was actually 25.4mm… always check tubing before printing the right parts!
Hi Rob! Yes it’s black acrylic/plexiglass. I installed it as it was easier to clean up paint and a smooth surface for paper to be stuck down. I’ve used threaded inserts that I can swap out surface/spoil board as needed. 👍👍
Thanks for your comment Simone!! Yes I have made comparable with all versions and a viable from my thangs profile. It is still a work in progress and need to create a better vac head for the system, however you are more than welcome to try out. I have made a makita mount that is compatible, and there is also a DW660 mount and vac head available if needed from other users. Feel free to send me an email on newtechcreative@gmail.com if needed. Thanks for watching 🤩
Thanks for your comment Will! You can build the mpcnc using the instructions on v1engineering, and all the files for my build can be found on my thangs profile. Unfortunately I don’t have a step by step instructions or build video. Let me know if you can’t find the files.
Thanks Dave!! The longer pipes are 990mm, shorter side 740mm and height 110mm. The centre crossing pipes are 50mm shorter than the parallel outermost pipes. I hope that makes sense??
You are just amazing !!! Thank you so much for making this video, and your generosity. So if I understand well, if you disactivate that WIFI chip, there is no reason for the program to get interrupted?
Since making this video I’ve figured out the main reason for the crashing… I was using the direct Wi-Fi and this seems to request more processing from the esp32. Since connecting properly through a local Wi-Fi network, I haven’t had any more issues!!
Thanks for your comment Casper. I would print the gantry part vertical with supports around the bearing attachment… avoid suppers inside the part as it would be a nightmare to remove. Print the lower part laying down with the spindle end facing upward - no supports needed. I’ll update these instructions soon on thangs!
You have amazing skills!!! I am really impressed and your explanations are really clear : thank so much!!! Would it be possible to ask you questions privately about how I could improve mine please?
Thank you! More than happy to send you in the right direction. There is a huge community on Facebook or on the v1 forum who can assist, otherwise jump onto my discord: discord.gg/Ck4xXAWmQE Or email: newtechcreative@gmail.com
First off that is an awesome looking machine. You mentioned that you get pauses in your work due to overheating the WI-Fi chip on your board. I currently run Mainsail and Klipper for my 3D printers this is basically the same thing as Fluid/NC. There is actually a Fluid software for 3D printing. Why not use a raspberry pi or alternative to send your file to from your computer via Wi-Fi it is stored there and runs from there that way if you lose wi-fi all together your job continues to print. Just a suggestion.
Thank for your comment! Great suggestion. Fortunately I have fixed the intermittent issue for the work pausing due to firmware changes and I was running Wi-Fi Direct to the controller that put too much stress on the processor.running through my home network fixed the issue. Yes I have seen fluid and it’s a stunning 3D printing platform…. I really love their user interface! Thanks for the suggestion 👍
Thanks Brian! I have made a small bracket for the x and y axis that attaches under one of the bolts securing a bearing… I think I forgot to upload to my thangs but will update later today. Cheers 👍
I am looking into FluidNC more and wanted to know what did you use to actually wire up your ESP32 module? Do you have any more detail about the electronics setup.
@@NEWTechCreative I love this build! starting to rebuild my mpcnc and go the next step to the primo version. Your Base/Table looks stunning - I'd love to go with a base like that - but unfortunately I can't find any files, exept from the stl's for center support etc. on your thangs - could you please point me to the right location or share the drawings somehow? would be great!
Thanks for your comment. I have updated the thangs files. Link in description to my thangs profile. When you download the 3d file brackets, there will be dxf, eps and pdf files in the same zip folders. let me know if you have any issues. thank you
Jon - do you have Primo too? Could you tell me something about it? How long did it take to build. How much fast it at last? What spindle you have? Anything that would be worth knowing before going to build it. Thank you
@@djVania08 I did build the primo at 24"x24". It wasn't to bad to build, I would definitely make sure your 3d printer is dialed in. I have seen a lot of people have issues with parts due to 3d print issues. I bought the kit from v1 engineering since it was about the same cost as part picking was. I just did dom tubing and used some gun bluing to help it not rust and it still does get rust on them since it's in my garage. I went with the dw660 tool and seems to do fine I have not tried cutting any metal on it yet.
Well done, congrats. Quick question, how did you make the machine draw that one ligne circle drawing? What file did you use? Was it really following the lines through vectors or was it like engraving with a laser from left to right and so on?Thanks and all the best
Thank you Martin! Yes it followed the vector boundary and changed height depending on thickness of line!! To achieve this you can use any CAM software on the engrave function to replicate a vbit tool as the brush is shaped similar. I hope that makes sense? Thanks Martin
Hi, do you have Koala Vac files to suit 25.4 tubing. That is one impressive build, I have just about finished the Lowrider 3 to add to my MPCNC stable.
Wow! You must have an impressive setup 😁 would be great to see your lowrider up and going. Yes the 25mm versions will work with the 25.4mm…. Keep in mind that the koala vac is not a finished product and still needs refining- you are welcome to tinker 😁
@@NEWTechCreative Myles, thanks for your reply, I will send some pics and video soon, I'm having a biopsy procedure tomorrow so it might be after Christmas. I will tinker with your Koala vac system, thanks again and all the best for Christmas and Nwe Year. Paul
First of all, thank you for your video, it's amazing! Now, a few things: You mention cooling the NEMA17s, do you think NEMA23s might be a worthwile upgrade? In terms of getting higher acceleration if the frame itself is rigid enough, you can get higher quality belts with more fibre in them that makes them much more rigid and far less likely to slip (if you've ever seen a Prusa printer, essentially ones like those). Also, I'd absolutely love to see how it copes with metal. Aluminium or if somehow rigid enough of a frame, perhaps an even harder metal too? Again, thank you for the amazing video, build and custom designed files!
Thank you for your comment Elliott! You are 100% correct… I am pushing the NEMA 17’s however the 23’s I believe would add too much weight and might cause other issues… but it has been fun to see how far I can push the 17’s 😁. As for the belt, I have seen other belts available and I agree that the teeth on the belt are flexible and contributing to the skipping on fast changes and your solution would definitely make a difference, however I do like the flexible teeth for homing/squaring as they skip to square the machine. I look forward to adding a spindle down the track and testing the cutting capabilities!! I’ll certainly make another video then 🤩 thanks Elliott 😁
@@NEWTechCreative I want to see what this wonderful machine is capable of! We are waiting for a video with the installation of the spindle on this work of art and the results of the cutting capability tests.
This is the most beautiful and refined MPCNC I've seen. Just shared your vid with some other MPCNC friends - they're agog just like me! I love your koala vac design. I just printed the upper and lower portions for the Primo 23.5 I'm building, and the parts look great and fit together well. Where can I find some more information about the magnet installation? It looks like several magnets go in the dimples on the lower part. Do magnets get glued into the matching holes on the upper part? If so, any tips? What do you recommend for glue for the magnets? Thanks for sharing your awesome machine - you give me something to aspire to!
Thank you for your kind comment!! Great to hear your giving the koala vac v2 a go!! Please let me know feedback about the design. Regarding the magnets- yes the magnets are glued into both parts with the polarity matching to hold each adjustment depending on the height required. I would tape the outside of tube when gluing to align magnets as they dry. I have used super glue on mine and holds well. Sorry my instructions are brief however I’ll update instructions down the track. I would love to see your mpcnc progress! Send me your Instagram if you have one?
@@NEWTechCreative Sorry I don't have an instagram. My build's pretty ghetto compared to yours. It'll work fine, I'm sure (actually upgrading from a burly that had previously been upgraded from a 525), but it's nowhere near as pretty. I mounted the koala in place of the clamp Y part on the Primo. Two notes: 1) The clamp Y part has a cutout to clear a bolt on the truck at the back - the koala doesn't have that, so loses a few mm of travel in the Y direction. 2) It's a pretty tight fit - the koala is pressed pretty tightly up against the other clamp. I don't think it'll cause any issues, but another mm of clearance might be good there. Love the koala design and it's minimal impact on usable space. Also that it's mounted close to the axis so should have less impact on the tool head as it moves around. Can't wait to try it out!
@@NEWTechCreative I finally got my DW660 mounted on my rebuilt primo, and was surprised that the vac head didn't line up. I came back to this vid and realized that the koala is designed to align with a spindle. I need to make a few measurements and create a vac head that will work with the 660. I'll put it up on TV/Printables when I finish it.
I bet the machine is really awesome, except I can't see it too well. You have a very dark studio and background. I would have loved to finish watching.
Wow, what a great build! Looking forward to seeing more video's on it operating.
Thanks William!! I look forward to sharing some fun projects 😄
I'm motivated again to get my started project out of the basement. Thanks for the great video.
Good luck with the build 👍👍🤩
The text overlay corrected from series to in parallel and I think you are correct the first time when you said the limit switches would be wired in series
That looks incredible. I printed 70 percent of the parts for a primo build for my first cnc and bought all high end electronics. I've gotten distracted with a home renovation
Haha! Im sure when your completed both, you can make plenty of nice stuff for your new home with the MPCNC!! Good luck with the renovations 👍👍
@@NEWTechCreative thanks brother
sabes si hay alguna forma de usar algun Touch screen con fluid nc ???? en mks dlc 32
Great question. At this stage there isn’t support for screens on the fluidnc platform, however I have seen some development in possibilities. Maybe something that they will implement down the track, however the web page interface is just as easy to implement. 👍
Hi Myles, Will you share the lovely looking under part build and some more info on the electronics/wiring?
Thanks for your comment Swe! Absolutely! Is there anything specific or everything in general? I can draw schematics over the next week.
Hi, I am also interested in a close up look at the electronics and wiring. I've already bought the same drivers and started looking at ESP32s, but became lost as to which to get and how to connect them to the drivers, and also how to power everything. I really like the idea of additional power outlets.
Great questions. I might do a video walk through for wiring if that makes it easier? I would suggest purchasing the 38pin ESP32 and also purchase an ESP32 breakout board to make connecting wires simple and secure.
Let me know if you require links?
@@NEWTechCreative Links, wiring diagrams, basically anything you can share about your build would be greatly appreciated
@@JamieKhau and @Swe Res - I have started to create graphics on my GitHub to help wiring. I'll continue to upload documents over the next week with wiring. Here is the link github.com/NEWTech-Creative/MPCNC
Hey, I have a pen plotter, do your fluidNC config is able to run my pen plotter with a servo to lift up and down the pen??
Hi Leonardo! I haven’t gone down this path (yet!)… however servos are super easy to implement for plotters or other applications. Scroll down to ‘rc servo’ section on the wiki to learn how to setup. wiki.fluidnc.com/en/config/axes
You have a link to those feet that you used? Getting ready to take apart my burly and convert it to a primo.
Yes absolutely! All files available on my thangs profile.
thangs.com/designer/newtechcreative/3d-model/MPCNC%20Primo%2025.4%20-%20Corner%20Brace%20%28no%20cable%20support%29.stl-126481?manualModelView=true&source=Recent
Nice work ! Is the 3d model of the table available per chance?
Yes the dxf drawings should be on my thangs profile. If you can’t find, please send me an email to newtechcreative@gmail.com
nice work!, what is the name of the algorithm that generates the scribble image in the end montage?
Thanks for your comment! Unfortunately this was not generated by an algorithm, however was drawn by hand using illustrator. It took about 20mins to draw over a still life photo I took. I wanted to draw an image with a continuous line and couldn’t find a program that suited what I wanted, so ended up just drawing myself!
Hi NT what software are you rocking to do the sketches on and generate the gcode
A random selection of different apps! Illustrator is my main go to, followed by sandify.org. You can find a selection on online sites by searching a variation of vector line art converter or generator. Then use your CAM software to turn the vector into tool paths for your CNC! Hope that helps?
I'm remodeling a table like yours, but I can't find its dimensions
=Please refer to the dxf and technical drawings for panel dimensions.=
Thanks for your comment. I thought I had included with the thangs files, however not sure. Send me an email to newtechcreative@gmail.com and I’ll send through to you.
@@NEWTechCreative Thank you Myles! I received everything and everything opened.
Nifty machine! Can you add a spindle/router and CNC wood? You've got a vacuum so I assume so, would have been nice to see that in action. It's a really clean system!
What kind of tube did you use for the rails ?
I used chrome plated steel pipe… said 25mm on sticker however needed up being 25.4mm on the dot. Check measurements before printing!!
Really cool. Got to know FluidNC thanks to you. Does squaring with the endstops work with it?
Fantastic to hear!! Yes absolutely. You will need to setup independent motor outputs with the limits. I’m setting that up at the moment on my new machine. More info on the fluidnc wiki on this 🤩
@@NEWTechCreative Cool! Good to hear. I'm looking forward to the development to come with FluidNC. Personally I just finished my MPCNC build with SKRpro, Marlin and CNCJs (before I knew about FluidNC) but will certainly hold out on FluidNC anyways until its considered stable. Anyhow. I believe your are making a very valuable contribution to the MPCNC-community by sort of introducing FluidNC to it. Also I really love how you show your respect and appreciation to the MPCNC project here, even though you are clearly way ahead of it with your matilda project. :) Kudos!
Love your build. Might have missed it in your video but what are you using for your rail tubing?
Thanks Derrick 👍 I’m using a chrome tubing from the local hardware store. I initially said it was 25mm - however I also took calipers with me to the store to check and was actually 25.4mm… always check tubing before printing the right parts!
where are the dxf/pdf files for the table? love the design
Thank you! Please send me an email and I’ll send through 👍👍 newtechcreative@gmail.com
@@NEWTechCreative I ended up finding them in one of the downloads. Had to switch to “original” on the download drop down bar
Awesome! Thanks for letting me know. enjoy ☺️
What is the shiny black surface in the center of the cnc? Metal, plexi? Something else?
Hi Rob! Yes it’s black acrylic/plexiglass. I installed it as it was easier to clean up paint and a smooth surface for paper to be stuck down. I’ve used threaded inserts that I can swap out surface/spoil board as needed. 👍👍
Amazing build!! The standard Koala Vac is for 25mm pipe? and on which mount should I attach it? Thank you!
Thanks for your comment Simone!! Yes I have made comparable with all versions and a viable from my thangs profile. It is still a work in progress and need to create a better vac head for the system, however you are more than welcome to try out. I have made a makita mount that is compatible, and there is also a DW660 mount and vac head available if needed from other users. Feel free to send me an email on newtechcreative@gmail.com if needed. Thanks for watching 🤩
Is there a project on how to build this exact setup? I really like it and want to know what it would cost me to build and how to build it.
Thanks for your comment Will! You can build the mpcnc using the instructions on v1engineering, and all the files for my build can be found on my thangs profile. Unfortunately I don’t have a step by step instructions or build video. Let me know if you can’t find the files.
Looks Great!!! Could you post the length of the rail pipes this looks like a great size for me to build thanks :)
Thanks Dave!! The longer pipes are 990mm, shorter side 740mm and height 110mm. The centre crossing pipes are 50mm shorter than the parallel outermost pipes. I hope that makes sense??
@@NEWTechCreative thanks! do you run a Discord server? might have a few questions along the way...
@@daveyridgwell7537 discord.gg/f87Pcc9E
You are just amazing !!! Thank you so much for making this video, and your generosity. So if I understand well, if you disactivate that WIFI chip, there is no reason for the program to get interrupted?
Since making this video I’ve figured out the main reason for the crashing… I was using the direct Wi-Fi and this seems to request more processing from the esp32. Since connecting properly through a local Wi-Fi network, I haven’t had any more issues!!
Nice build.
What is the best orientation to print the Koala Vac for the Primo? Standing with supports, or laying down?
Thanks for your comment Casper. I would print the gantry part vertical with supports around the bearing attachment… avoid suppers inside the part as it would be a nightmare to remove. Print the lower part laying down with the spindle end facing upward - no supports needed. I’ll update these instructions soon on thangs!
You have amazing skills!!! I am really impressed and your explanations are really clear : thank so much!!!
Would it be possible to ask you questions privately about how I could improve mine please?
Thank you! More than happy to send you in the right direction. There is a huge community on Facebook or on the v1 forum who can assist, otherwise jump onto my discord: discord.gg/Ck4xXAWmQE
Or email: newtechcreative@gmail.com
First off that is an awesome looking machine. You mentioned that you get pauses in your work due to overheating the WI-Fi chip on your board. I currently run Mainsail and Klipper for my 3D printers this is basically the same thing as Fluid/NC. There is actually a Fluid software for 3D printing. Why not use a raspberry pi or alternative to send your file to from your computer via Wi-Fi it is stored there and runs from there that way if you lose wi-fi all together your job continues to print. Just a suggestion.
Thank for your comment! Great suggestion. Fortunately I have fixed the intermittent issue for the work pausing due to firmware changes and I was running Wi-Fi Direct to the controller that put too much stress on the processor.running through my home network fixed the issue. Yes I have seen fluid and it’s a stunning 3D printing platform…. I really love their user interface! Thanks for the suggestion 👍
Greate job. I can’t seem to work out how you have attached your drag chain to your steppers.
Thanks Brian! I have made a small bracket for the x and y axis that attaches under one of the bolts securing a bearing… I think I forgot to upload to my thangs but will update later today. Cheers 👍
A very beautiful machine! Just an excellent engineering idea!
Thank you Ruslan!! 👍👍
I am looking into FluidNC more and wanted to know what did you use to actually wire up your ESP32 module?
Do you have any more detail about the electronics setup.
Thanks for your comment! I am hoping to do a walk-through video in the next week! Stay tuned :)
@@NEWTechCreative thanks will do. That would be fantastic.
Good job, it looks great you created a nice looking CNC.
Thanks for you kind comment Geoff!
What are the dimensions of the pipes you used for your build?
I’ve use 990mm x 740mm x 110mm for my conduit! 👍👍
Did you say the base files were linked? I can’t find them. Beautiful build btw
Thank you! Yes the files are in the description with my thangs profile link! Let me know if you still can’t find?
@@NEWTechCreative I love this build! starting to rebuild my mpcnc and go the next step to the primo version. Your Base/Table looks stunning - I'd love to go with a base like that - but unfortunately I can't find any files, exept from the stl's for center support etc. on your thangs - could you please point me to the right location or share the drawings somehow? would be great!
Thanks for your comment. I have updated the thangs files. Link in description to my thangs profile. When you download the 3d file brackets, there will be dxf, eps and pdf files in the same zip folders. let me know if you have any issues. thank you
Impressive, definitely a nice looking machine, I have a MPCNC I built and it works pretty well but it sure doesn't look that pretty.
Haha! Thanks Jon. Considering mine has never seen dust I can say that’s a large contribution to why it still looks pretty!! 😂😂
Jon - do you have Primo too? Could you tell me something about it? How long did it take to build. How much fast it at last? What spindle you have? Anything that would be worth knowing before going to build it. Thank you
@@djVania08 I did build the primo at 24"x24". It wasn't to bad to build, I would definitely make sure your 3d printer is dialed in. I have seen a lot of people have issues with parts due to 3d print issues. I bought the kit from v1 engineering since it was about the same cost as part picking was. I just did dom tubing and used some gun bluing to help it not rust and it still does get rust on them since it's in my garage. I went with the dw660 tool and seems to do fine I have not tried cutting any metal on it yet.
Such a fucking clean location, video & setup.
🤩🤩
Hi, this is a great build. Did you share the bracket/feet design somewhere to download? thanks!
Thanks for your comment Flores! Yes you can find all files in my thangs profile. Links in video description!! Thank you 🙏
@@NEWTechCreative Ha, I see now. I didn't know the thangs site.. so did not recognize that as a site with designs. Thanks again.
Well done, congrats. Quick question, how did you make the machine draw that one ligne circle drawing? What file did you use? Was it really following the lines through vectors or was it like engraving with a laser from left to right and so on?Thanks and all the best
Thank you Martin! Yes it followed the vector boundary and changed height depending on thickness of line!! To achieve this you can use any CAM software on the engrave function to replicate a vbit tool as the brush is shaped similar. I hope that makes sense? Thanks Martin
Hi, do you have Koala Vac files to suit 25.4 tubing. That is one impressive build, I have just about finished the Lowrider 3 to add to my MPCNC stable.
Wow! You must have an impressive setup 😁 would be great to see your lowrider up and going. Yes the 25mm versions will work with the 25.4mm…. Keep in mind that the koala vac is not a finished product and still needs refining- you are welcome to tinker 😁
@@NEWTechCreative Myles, thanks for your reply, I will send some pics and video soon, I'm having a biopsy procedure tomorrow so it might be after Christmas. I will tinker with your Koala vac system, thanks again and all the best for Christmas and Nwe Year. Paul
First of all, thank you for your video, it's amazing! Now, a few things: You mention cooling the NEMA17s, do you think NEMA23s might be a worthwile upgrade? In terms of getting higher acceleration if the frame itself is rigid enough, you can get higher quality belts with more fibre in them that makes them much more rigid and far less likely to slip (if you've ever seen a Prusa printer, essentially ones like those). Also, I'd absolutely love to see how it copes with metal. Aluminium or if somehow rigid enough of a frame, perhaps an even harder metal too? Again, thank you for the amazing video, build and custom designed files!
Thank you for your comment Elliott! You are 100% correct… I am pushing the NEMA 17’s however the 23’s I believe would add too much weight and might cause other issues… but it has been fun to see how far I can push the 17’s 😁. As for the belt, I have seen other belts available and I agree that the teeth on the belt are flexible and contributing to the skipping on fast changes and your solution would definitely make a difference, however I do like the flexible teeth for homing/squaring as they skip to square the machine. I look forward to adding a spindle down the track and testing the cutting capabilities!! I’ll certainly make another video then 🤩 thanks Elliott 😁
@@NEWTechCreative I want to see what this wonderful machine is capable of! We are waiting for a video with the installation of the spindle on this work of art and the results of the cutting capability tests.
NEMA 17 motors can work up to 80 degrees centigrade. It's very hard to make them hotter in CNC work.
You should see about presenting your machines at Opensauce 2024 in SF!
That would be fun!! A pity I’m on the opposite side of the world 😂😂
Reminds me of a program I used on the Tandy 1000. I can't remember the name of it. Very cool
That’s cool!! I do love retro PC’s… very nostalgic 🤩
Awesome job! Is there a set of diameter 25 too?
Yes the 25.4mm versions are compatible!
Super showed the machine perfectly in languidness. You probably can't film during the day if you don't have the lighting anymore.
🎾
@NEWTechCreative please more of those shots from the basement ,thanks 🤣
Fantastic! Let's get you more subs!
Thanks Patrick!! 😁👍👍
Thats ridiculously cool locking machine :)
black machine in a black backgronund!!! great idea!!
Question is... Can the plotter function forge any signature?
What you program is what the CNC will follow. The rest is up to you!!
This is the most beautiful and refined MPCNC I've seen. Just shared your vid with some other MPCNC friends - they're agog just like me! I love your koala vac design. I just printed the upper and lower portions for the Primo 23.5 I'm building, and the parts look great and fit together well. Where can I find some more information about the magnet installation? It looks like several magnets go in the dimples on the lower part. Do magnets get glued into the matching holes on the upper part? If so, any tips? What do you recommend for glue for the magnets? Thanks for sharing your awesome machine - you give me something to aspire to!
Thank you for your kind comment!! Great to hear your giving the koala vac v2 a go!! Please let me know feedback about the design. Regarding the magnets- yes the magnets are glued into both parts with the polarity matching to hold each adjustment depending on the height required. I would tape the outside of tube when gluing to align magnets as they dry. I have used super glue on mine and holds well. Sorry my instructions are brief however I’ll update instructions down the track. I would love to see your mpcnc progress! Send me your Instagram if you have one?
@@NEWTechCreative Sorry I don't have an instagram. My build's pretty ghetto compared to yours. It'll work fine, I'm sure (actually upgrading from a burly that had previously been upgraded from a 525), but it's nowhere near as pretty.
I mounted the koala in place of the clamp Y part on the Primo. Two notes: 1) The clamp Y part has a cutout to clear a bolt on the truck at the back - the koala doesn't have that, so loses a few mm of travel in the Y direction. 2) It's a pretty tight fit - the koala is pressed pretty tightly up against the other clamp. I don't think it'll cause any issues, but another mm of clearance might be good there.
Love the koala design and it's minimal impact on usable space. Also that it's mounted close to the axis so should have less impact on the tool head as it moves around. Can't wait to try it out!
Thanks for your feedback! Super helpful 👍 would love to see progress!! Feel free to drop me an email at newtechcreative@gmail.com
@@NEWTechCreative I finally got my DW660 mounted on my rebuilt primo, and was surprised that the vac head didn't line up. I came back to this vid and realized that the koala is designed to align with a spindle. I need to make a few measurements and create a vac head that will work with the 660. I'll put it up on TV/Printables when I finish it.
Nice job man, the build is great. Love the videos.
Thanks Jesse!! I appreciate your support and kind words 👍😁
Holy cow; This rocks !!!!!!!!
Nice build! Consider checking out V1 Engineering's LowRider 3 CNC, another great machine 🙂
Absolutely!! A shame I’m running out of room in the garage!! 😂
NewTeck kicks ASS.
😂😂😂
thanks for sharing, very nice. ttu
My pleasure crchuck!! Thanks for your support 👍
Looks amazing!
Thanks Ryan! I really appreciate your comment and thank you to everything you have done for the CNC community!!
@@NEWTechCreative So now that you are done, sitting there all bored, looking for new projects....😁 Should I start on a new version?
Haha! I may have an addiction to CNC’s 😂😂 your lowrider v2 looks very tempting but I’m sadly running out of space 😔
Sharp!
May i know your X Y Z mm?
X630mm, Y630m, Z145mm 👍😁
😊
Sweet machine
I bet the machine is really awesome, except I can't see it too well. You have a very dark studio and background. I would have loved to finish watching.
Thanks for your feedback Dave!
Want to know everything about fluidnc!
I know right! Great platform 👍
@@NEWTechCreative i switched over to grblHAL :) for my opinion better than FluidNC
As soon as I heard the music, I shut it off. Im not hear to watch MTV.
Thanks for letting me know!
Here* Is your volume adjustment broken?
@@coreywaldriff no but it's easier just to move on
I am going to cry you haven’t stayed so sad …