Regardless of why you posted this great tutorial, you've given people a certain amount of freedom. I am so appreciative of content providers like yourself. Individuals who take the time to share their knowledge are some of the greatest teachers. Thank you so much. Cheers brother.
@@ilyasrao what's the maximum temperature that you get? also at what temperature is your setpoint? Are you using thermocouple or thermoresistor? I am using the same code that I uploaded on the video description
I just stumbled across your video, I am researching this very build. Well done! I love how you care for fit and finish. I also love all the people who have piles on about how "they would have done it better", yet they haven't, have they? There's a lot of trash talk, but no links to their builds.... Like I said, I am thinking about making one of my own and I noticed a couple of things. In most of the other videos; 1. there is NO schematic at all (good or bad). There's, usually no documentation at all. 2. There's usually no prices listed. If you look at the components, they are usually reclaimed, or "harvested " from either dead projects or recycled from someone's trashed equipment. I'm just pointing it out, or picking on anyone (I've done it myself) 3. The only time you see breadboard or PCB is when reclaiming items, see above, lol. If you see videos free on certain areas of the world, they just nail it to a piece of wood. I've even seen no case/covering to components. And no, before the haters pile on, they don't do it off camera. You see in later vids, that it still stands they same way it did at the end of their videos. 4. The care you put into fit and finish. You even used black silicone to match the case. That was the first time I've seen that done in a video. And finally 5. As stated above, I don't see links to their videos...... Again, great work. I "liked" your video and will be looking out for more. Thanks for sharing.
I used a construction grade sealant that I had laying around. It's a bit overkill but anyway, the brand is "Bison fireplace sealant". The best and cheapest alternative in my opinion is this one bit.ly/3mLPoof
Hello, im interested in building it but i have some questions. -I have problems to unsolder big components with my soldering iron because the temperature drops, will this fix it? -Can I replace the buck converter with a lc7805 regulator? -Can I use a transformer with a rectifier instead of the psu and put it all in the same box? also i hope you can help me with an idea, put a swich in the stand and if you leave the iron there for about five minutes it turns it self off
hello, -if you want to unsolder big components you need a tip with big thermal mass (in other words, you need a big tip), you also need a powerful power supply. I can not tell you for sure if this soldering iron will work for you, because it depends on the size of the components. -yes, you can use a 7805, it is absolutely fine. -yes of course you can use a transformer. I had the same idea long time ago, but I never implemented it...I wanted to use a reed switch in the handle and a magnet on the base. But never found time for it.
I'm still waiting some components that I ordered from China. When I receive them I will make a new video and upload. Just subscribe and click on the bell icon and you will be notified.
@@rakotondramananasamuel3970 PID can effect the temperature precision but is mainly for controlling the speed, it if fine you don't need to touch it. To have precise temperature, you need to adjust the 500K potentiometer. All you need is an external temperature meter (temperature meter of multimeter for example)
The components that I am waiting from China, are not related to the temperature calibration. I already have everything that I need for the calibration. I just want to make a video about calibration and some other things...
Very nice project. I want to make one for myself. I want to use a soldering iron with K - thermocouple and also I have a LCD 1602 with I2C and i am wondering if you can tell me how to modify the code. I can't understand how the "class" functions work. Thank you and have a nice day.
absolutely no, if I had used a smaller display and SMD components I could have made it much much smaller. The TS100 for example, has more components and is super compact.
@@sasiskas I am currently working to modify my TS100 to be USB-C compatible -- might be interesting to adapt this design also! Im using the STM parts and following thier excellent application note "USB Type-C™ Power Delivery using STM32xx Series MCUs and STM32xxx" -- AN5225
Another question, I can't seem to figure out how to connect the rotary encoder, I have the one from your list, but what is what? Which pin is the R,L,B and ground...
You are right, I should update the scematic in order to make it more clear...for the moment I have prepared a picture for you. Hopefully it will help you bit.ly/2X1sSgQ
It's been a while, but I finally got time to proceed with the soldering station. I have the board created, but no matter what I try (new 907 heating element, switching wires) I keep getting the message : "no iron". It does get warm a bit, I did not let it warm up too long, so I don't know how warm it will become if I let it.... Any idea what could be wrong?... I will recheck the wiring coming days.
Hi sasiskas I'm not an expert. I want to build a waxer. Your project can be adapted? I need the temperature between 30° and 60° c. Thanks. Great video.
After researching for a while i've been considering to make this build. Taking in account that where i live its hard to come by some of the components i'd start gathering them.(I have a series of questions). 1_The soldering iron I link below its the same you use here right? 2_You change the heating element because of the temperature readout? or because the quality of it? 3_Is there any important change i'd need to make if I wanted to use the soldering iron handle as it is ? (with the thermocouple) 4_ The voltage you step down with the buck converter, works both for the logic and for the heating element? Thanks! and sorry if i might have flood you with questions lol
1. If you mean the link that I posted in the video description. Then yes, it is the same that I use, but be aware...most Chinese sellers on ebay, have multiples sources, so it is possible that you will not receive the exact same model as I did. 2. I changed the heating element, because of the quality. The one that came with the iron was not a ceramic heating element, it would degrade very fast and in general it would perform poorly compared to the one I finally used. 3. Yes, in that case you need to change the schematic a little bit. If you want I can help you (even though I suggest that you upgrade your heating element) 4. It is only for the logic and the LCD, the heating element is powered by 24V. I suggest that you try to make this build, it is a really nice project. I also couldn't find most of the components, so I bought all of them from ebay and AliExpress. If you have any questions feel free to ask.
@@sasiskas Allright thanks! I'll try to gather most stuff and when I have almost everything to make it i'll contact you if I have any doubts. Considering my budget is kind of low i'll step down the voltage with a linear 317, I guess the power consumption of the logic board is not that high right?
@@nico8273 An LM317 is also suitable for this project, exactly because the consumption of the logic is very low. It might be even a better solution that the buck converter, considering that the buck converter takes up too much space and makes everything harder to fit.
@@marco-me1uh First of all, this is not only about money. It is mostly about the pleasure of DIY. But still, the one I made is the best value, it cost me 32USD, and you can even make it for 25USD or less if you don't care about the esthetics. There are definitely no decent stations below that price, you can only find stations with analog control, with no display or in best case with a simple 7 segment display that can't display both the setpoint and the current temperature. I will not even mention, being open source, having PID control and being highly customizable. If you just want to do your job, you may even buy a simple iron without any temperature control for 2usd.
@@aravindasandun7450 Recommended is ad822 or mcp602, mcp601. Other alternatives are CA3260, CA5260, LMC6032, LMC6082, LMC6482, LT1013, LT1366, LT1368, LT1413, MC33172, MC33202, MPC602, MPC6022, MPC6272, MPC6282, TLC2202, TLC2262, TLC2272, TLC252, TLC27, TLC272, TLC277, TLE2022, TLV272, TS922, TS922. I have personally tested only ad822 and mcp602, I can't guarantee about other alternatives, but they should work...just make sure that you read the datasheet of your op amp and use the pins accordingly. For example on MCP602 VDD(5v) is pin8 but on MCP601 VDD(+5) is pin7 .
@@derekr7814 this soldering station needs 50-75watts in order to work optimally. It doesn't matter if you have a 12v or 24v power supply, as long as it can deliver enough power. The lowest the power of your power supply, the longest it will take for the iron to heat up. Also the lowest the power, the harder for the iron to maintain its temperature in demanding applications (like soldering a component with big thermal mass). In any case you can build a power supply similar to the one I'm using, just check out in my videos who I built mine.
Very Good project but the buck converter is only to power the arduino , I think you could use a LM317 or LM7805 linear regulator ... would save some board space and price.
@@sasiskas:) .. yup, I thought that was the case :) ... and again Congratulations on the project ..you truly had a Lot of care and attention to all details! Very very good! Unlike me I'm thinking about using a chocolate case for my build on a similar diy solder iron :) (will use the 358 amp-op, maybe the same Mosfet, LM7805 for the arduino pro-mini ... my display will be 7segment :( a bit more simple then yours and Way worse in terms of overall look and feel :)
@@sasiskasSpeaking of solder iron circuits .I found one that seems to be the opposite of what we are trying to do, that is PID controlled, display the all lot ... ua-cam.com/video/NklJvMe6OR0/v-deo.html ... the link shows one such solder iron projects with just on/off control. nothing more then a opamp used as both amplifier and comparator mode. Simpler then that is not possible :)
@@John_Smith__ Thank you for your kind words. It doesn't matter if it looks good, as long as it works. You can always improve it later (piece by piece). I hope you will enjoy doing it, as I did :-)
no the sensor and heater are not polarized. You can connect it anyway you like as long as you don't accidentally connect the heater to the sensor or vice versa.
Is there a way to calibrate a different iron Handle (with thermistor of course) since the one i have is a "KADA" soldering iron with different thermistor (its resistance is about 3 ohms at 25°c and NOT 50 ohms like the Hakko ones).Thanks.
are you sure that you are not confusing the thermistor resistance with the heater resistance? because on the hakko iron the heater resistance is 3 ohms...
In any way, there is a 500k calibration trim pot exactly for this purpose.There is also an option in the menu for this purpose. But you need to have a thermometer (thermometer of a multimeter should be fine) in order to calibrate it.
@@sasiskas Thanks a lot for confirmation. And yes I have a home made thermometer (based on thermocouple and max 6675) . Is it fine to calibrate my iron handle?
@@sasiskas so the hakko907 could also very precise if the pid is well configured... is the hakko could be achieve the same performance with T12 on precision of degrees ?
Manoj Gupta Hello and thank you for your comment. Sure I would like to see your code. If you are kind enough, you can share it in the comment section for everyone to see.
well it is a very simple schematic... not a rocket science. There was no reason to make it fancy, just wanted to keep it simple... I think it is quite obvious where the pins are, so far you are the only person to ask :P If you need help, feel free to ask.
A really fantastic project, thanks sasiskas. I have completed it and it's working flawlessly. I had (and still have) just one issue : sometimes (while tuning or calibrating for example) the encoder indications are erratic : when right or left rotating it sometimes the values increase and sometimes decreases and some other times jump for instance from 40% to 75% and vice versa . Have someone had this issue or is it caused by a poor quality encoder ?
@@sasiskas Yes i added them but on the pcb not on the encoder itself (the distance of the cable between the encoder and the pcb is arround 10 cm.). May this be the problem?
Hedi normally it doesn't matter if it's on the PCB or the encoder. Make sure that they are connected properly. As a last resort try replacing the encoder.
@@sasiskas Very strange problem... Have checked the connections, to be sure i have also desoldered the three 100nf capacitors and resoldered them on the encoder itself but the problem still remains. I have also replaced the encoder by another identical one (I just have 2 identical encoders) without success. What i noticed is that this problem does not occur when the heater is OFF ie scrolling the main menu or modifying the set temperature while in OFF position are ok without problems. It happens when modifying the power percentage in tuning mode ?? very strange.
OK. Now it works much much better. I can scroll all the value without problem (it still bounces sometimes but on the whole it's ok). What i did... : Actually i'm using an encoder mounted on a breakout board (for arduino projects) so i think it has already the debouncing components installed . Therefore i desoldered the three 100 nf capacitors and got the issue fixed. I could after that proceed with the tuning and the calibration tasks and was impressed by the accuracy of the station . I re-verified the tuning and calibration values and everything was ok. Thanks again sasiskas for the project.
Hi Sasikas, thanks for the video. I've done some Googling and I can't figure out why a thermoresistor would be better than a thermocouple for this project. Can you explain why you said "your iron most likely comes with a thermocouple. (thumbs down)."
Thank you for your comment. I should have explained it better. It is not that the thermocouple is bad and the thermoresistor is good. The difference is actually not the kind of temperature sensor that is used, but the heaters themselves (ceramic PTC vs nichrome wire). The heating elements that come with a thermocouple use nichrome wire to heat up the tip. On the other hand the heating elements that come with a thermoresistor, use a ceramic PTC to heat up the tip. The ceramic PTC heats up faster and it is more durable that the element using a nichrome wire. That's why it's better. The reason I referred to them based on their temperature sensors, is to make clear that each kind of temperature sensor needs a different wiring.
Recommended is ad822 or mcp601. I dont know about op07 but other alternatives are CA3260, CA5260, LMC6032, LMC6082, LMC6482, LT1013, LT1366, LT1368, LT1413, MC33172, MC33202, MPC602, MPC6022, MPC6272, MPC6282, TLC2202, TLC2262, TLC2272, TLC252, TLC27, TLC272, TLC277, TLE2022, TLV272, TS922, TS922
I don't have a Arduino Pro Mini at hand , but I do have a Nano. If I use the same pins can I use the nano for this project ? (or an Uno maybe?....) Thanks for this video, really helpful.
great video ... need little help :) on the schematic R between 5v and third pin of AD822 is 100k (R5), on the thermocouple guide it is 10k, on the component location it is 100, which one is correct value thank you very much
Hi there! i have been looking for your schematic and there is an issue. The ground lines on the schematic are missing on the arduino board! Kind regards JOSÉ
Cool project and I finally put all together but something went strong.the thing is that it heats up correctly but as soon as the buzzer beeps thermistor temperature goes down abruptly back to ambient temperature.
İ use arduino nano and i2c lcd and i want to modify code but this code very hard. When i change it i get wrong in everywhere. Can you modify it for i2c lcd?
Congratulations on the project! I have a question: Can the code be changed so that the readings do not change when the set temperature is reached? This skipping +/- a few degrees irritates the eye.
@@sasiskas Thanks for the reply! But for you, this code change will be much easier than someone else doing it. I hope you're free a little bit! Thank you!
if it takes T12 tips then no. if it takes tips similar to 907 then yes. For T12 tips I have made a different soldering station you can check it in my channel.
I already have one but I never tested it. For that pcb you need to use specific components with compatible footprint, you can't use just anything you like. I suggest that you use a perfboard.That way you ate going to be more flexible to use different any kind of components, regardless of their footprint.
@@dhanielagung7381 I can not tell you for sure. If you already have one of those op amps, you can try using them. If it doesn't work fine, then you can buy the ones that I suggest.
have you ever try max6675 thermocople module? What are different this and your thermocople sensor of your soldering station project for sensitivity and the precision of temperature measurement ?@@sasiskas
@@dhanielagung7381 I have never used max6675. I am using a thermoresistor not a thermocouple. Generally for hakko907 type irons, the best quality heating element you can find comes with a thermoresistor. That's why I'm using a thermoresistor (it is part of the heating element)
Hi, do you have plans to upgrade this project since the T12 have tilt/vibration detect algorithm? 907 is still handy for solder tiny components. And I guess the pin 2(black wire) is reserved for this to implement 😂 This is the best DIY soldering station project I can found on the internet, hope you can keeps updating it!
@@sasiskas eu a fiz com arduino nano e no uno em protoboard funcionou bem, mais tive que criar um drive para o mosfet, aí o leitor de temperatura, Lm358 não agusta nem a pau, grato por sua ajuda
@@Jkkdgahus LM358 is not a rail to rail amplifier, that's why it doesn't work properly for you. Just do research online and see what is a rail to rail amplifier and you will understand.
Please help me. I did the same but it didn't work when attaching the soldering handle to it saying no iron and I can't fix it yet. I error where it is. Thank you very much.
@@aipham4716 that means that you have a thermoresistor. -Make sure that you have followed the schematics for thermoresistor and not for thermocouple. -Make sure that your connections are solid and correct -Make sure that you use a proper op-amp (AD822, MCP602, or something similar)
There are a couple of ways by editing the code. 1. Find and edit the "max_power" in the code, values between (0-255) 2. By editing the PID values of the code (it is an advanced method)
@@sasiskas Thank you for the great video and I have been studying your schematic. Now to speed the heating process, if you set the value to 255, what will be the max current pumped into the element. What setting would you change on the PID? The proportional? then tweak the other 2 for stability?
@@dannyperry8070At 24v it shouldn't draw more than 4Amps. The purpose of max_power is to prevent your power supply from triggering the short circuit protection. If your psu is powerful enough, you can set max_power to 255. You can just experiment, in the worst case your psu will just enable the short circuit protection and will stop delivering power. PID is a very complex topic, it can't be discussed on the comment section, if you don't have the knowledge, I would suggest that you didn't touch it.
Thank you for your comment. Unfortunately, I didn't draw my schematic for a single layer board. That means that it can't be etched. Also, when designing the schematic on easyEda I didn't cross check if the physical size of the components is the same as the ones that I used from the easyEDA library. Meaning that I don't have any files that can be used for PCB prototyping. If you want you can recreate my drawing,and make it suitable for prototyping
@@faizalortega7285 there are many tutorials how to upload code to the arduino. You just need an ftdi adapter (FTDI Adapter ebay.to/2QVTdst or bit.ly/39oEDQv ) and a computer
1. You either have a wrong connection. So just double check your connections. 2. Or your station simply needs to be tuned. For the tuning process you can check my video "how to make a T12 soldering station | Part 2" at 8:15. The tuning process is the same for both of these stations. 3. Or you have a wrong/faulty/fake op amp. I suggest that you use an MCP602
sasiskas Ive checked my connections 6 times; the only thing confusing me is the 500k pot. Right now I have pin 1 and 2 connected to eachother and pin 3connected to the 220k. I will try another opamp because this one is from ali.
@@justinvanson2743 if the tuning process wont help..that means that probably there is a problem with your opamp. I got mine from AliExpress as well. I was lucky I guess :) Go for MCP602 it is cheaper, easier to find and less likely to be fake.
@@sasiskas if I connect an iron the temp will also not increase or decrease, it will get hot though but I'm afraid if I leave it on for too long it will start getting too hot
@@sasiskas Thank you so much for sharing this project. Is completed and full working operational. Very weird to find out a project like this on youtube. I've found some but they are ended up so expensive to build and don't share so many details like this. Is this project grounded protected? I am trying to learn cellphone repair, I am experiencing my hakko 936 does not reach temp it needs to work on so small components, the iron heater ceramic element is thinner and shorten than the original hakko one , regardless what I do, it will not work to reach 400 celcius to say. I am a budget guy wont spend $250 plus in soldering station T12 that I need. Is there a way to covert this project to T12 iron tips?
@@svsv9 Thank you for your kind words. If you are asking whether the tip is grounded or not, then the answer is that the tip is not grounded. I did ground the tip because is was planning to do something else. But you can ground it anytime. The aviation plug has unpopulated pins, you can use that for grounding. Just connect the spring from the soldiering iron to the ground of your PCB. Regarding the temperature, I don't know what could be wrong...my soldering station goes above 400C. But I don't think that you need more that 350C for phone repair... No you can't convert this project into T12, But I'm trying to make a T12 Iron at this moment...if I succeed I will make a video. You don't need to spend too much money for a T12 soldering station... I'm making one for less that 30$ including power supply. You can also buy one from China for about 30$
I had done everything correct its working i used lm358n instead of ad822 and using thermocouple handle and circuit but works fine until 307°c above gose on key but iron temp not cross above 307°c also no iron indication not working when iron not connected
hello. This might happen due to various reasons. -You might need a stronger power supply. -You might need a better cooling on your mosfet -your mosfet might not be original -also make sure that your temperature probe can measure up to 400c or more
@@sasiskas i am using a 24v 5a power supply which confuses me when i set 400..the bottom line only ends at 310 ° it doesn't follow the top line i set 400 ° but when I checked on the thermometer the heat was above 400 °
sorry !! I'm not good at electronics. I am trying to make this project can you show me how to adjust 10k and 500k micro-variable resistors for this project??
10K trim pots are used to adjust the contrast and brightness of the LCD screen. Just rotate them until the contrast and brightness of the screen are acceptable by you. The 500K trim pot is used for tuning the station. Watch this video at 8:15 to see how you can tune your station ua-cam.com/video/CZDSgRHYyjI/v-deo.html
Hello !! i used one transistor npn 2n2222a and one pnp bc557 but when power on these 2 transistors are very hot and buzzer beeps continuously. Can you help me !!
Thêm chế độ ngủ bằng cách dùng 1 dây đang bỏ trống đó và nối vô cônv tắc từ và khi gác lên chỗ bỏ tay hàn nó sẽ ngủ bằng cách thích hợp nam châm trên đó
Regardless of why you posted this great tutorial, you've given people a certain amount of freedom. I am so appreciative of content providers like yourself. Individuals who take the time to share their knowledge are some of the greatest teachers. Thank you so much. Cheers brother.
Thank you for your kind words :-)
Wow! Thanks for the beautiful knowledge.
Super! I think it is the best DIY soldering station on UA-cam.
I rarely comment, but this is A grade material. I love how you made this video. Please do not stop making these videoes
Thank you for your kind comment. I really appreciate it. I am planning to upload more videos every now and then. Stay tuned!
Thank you for not putting an overused music over this
Very amazing, i would like to build one myself, but how do i connecnt the handle to the plug/ wich plug shoud i buy, how many pins?
thank you for your comment.
Aviation Plug GX16, 5pins (but I only used 4 pins)
@@sasiskas wow, thanks for the quick answer.
You deserve so many more subscribers. This is incredible
Thank you for your kind words. I am happy that you liked my videos.
i used pcm602 instead of ad822 and used arduino nan pro but it not showing ready message
does the temperature rise?
do you get reading that the temperature rises?
@@sasiskas yes it rise and after 100% it stops at 0% and coold down can u please provide the program code which you uploaded on your arduino?
@@ilyasrao what's the maximum temperature that you get? also at what temperature is your setpoint?
Are you using thermocouple or thermoresistor?
I am using the same code that I uploaded on the video description
I just stumbled across your video, I am researching this very build. Well done! I love how you care for fit and finish. I also love all the people who have piles on about how "they would have done it better", yet they haven't, have they? There's a lot of trash talk, but no links to their builds....
Like I said, I am thinking about making one of my own and I noticed a couple of things. In most of the other videos;
1. there is NO schematic at all (good or bad). There's, usually no documentation at all.
2. There's usually no prices listed. If you look at the components, they are usually reclaimed, or "harvested " from either dead projects or recycled from someone's trashed equipment. I'm just pointing it out, or picking on anyone (I've done it myself)
3. The only time you see breadboard or PCB is when reclaiming items, see above, lol. If you see videos free on certain areas of the world, they just nail it to a piece of wood. I've even seen no case/covering to components. And no, before the haters pile on, they don't do it off camera. You see in later vids, that it still stands they same way it did at the end of their videos.
4. The care you put into fit and finish. You even used black silicone to match the case. That was the first time I've seen that done in a video.
And finally
5. As stated above, I don't see links to their videos......
Again, great work. I "liked" your video and will be looking out for more. Thanks for sharing.
Thank you so much for your kind words. I really appreciate it.
SIR MAY I USE LM4558 INSTEAD IF AD822 ?
what other mosfet i can use instead of irlz44n i can't find it in market
Well implemented, I really like your work!
can i used sketch from mini to nano?
Great video. Thank you. Could someone please post a link to that silicone sealer? Did it come in that color or did you color it with something?
hello, I will post something similar later
I used a construction grade sealant that I had laying around. It's a bit overkill but anyway, the brand is "Bison fireplace sealant".
The best and cheapest alternative in my opinion is this one bit.ly/3mLPoof
Hello, im interested in building it but i have some questions.
-I have problems to unsolder big components with my soldering iron because the temperature drops, will this fix it?
-Can I replace the buck converter with a lc7805 regulator?
-Can I use a transformer with a rectifier instead of the psu and put it all in the same box?
also i hope you can help me with an idea, put a swich in the stand and if you leave the iron there for about five minutes it turns it self off
hello,
-if you want to unsolder big components you need a tip with big thermal mass (in other words, you need a big tip), you also need a powerful power supply.
I can not tell you for sure if this soldering iron will work for you, because it depends on the size of the components.
-yes, you can use a 7805, it is absolutely fine.
-yes of course you can use a transformer.
I had the same idea long time ago, but I never implemented it...I wanted to use a reed switch in the handle and a magnet on the base. But never found time for it.
Please tell me when you upload the video for calibrating the PID ? chears,
I'm still waiting some components that I ordered from China. When I receive them I will make a new video and upload. Just subscribe and click on the bell icon and you will be notified.
@@sasiskas for having precision so , calibrating needs some components not only change the value of P and I and D
But withoud component what did you do for having precision?
@@rakotondramananasamuel3970 PID can effect the temperature precision but is mainly for controlling the speed, it if fine you don't need to touch it. To have precise temperature, you need to adjust the 500K potentiometer. All you need is an external temperature meter (temperature meter of multimeter for example)
The components that I am waiting from China, are not related to the temperature calibration. I already have everything that I need for the calibration. I just want to make a video about calibration and some other things...
Very nice project. I want to make one for myself. I want to use a soldering iron with K - thermocouple and also I have a LCD 1602 with I2C and i am wondering if you can tell me how to modify the code. I can't understand how the "class" functions work. Thank you and have a nice day.
With everything being so small and compact, does it have any cooling problems?
absolutely no, if I had used a smaller display and SMD components I could have made it much much smaller. The TS100 for example, has more components and is super compact.
@@sasiskas I am currently working to modify my TS100 to be USB-C compatible -- might be interesting to adapt this design also! Im using the STM parts and following thier excellent application note "USB Type-C™ Power Delivery using STM32xx Series MCUs and STM32xxx" -- AN5225
sounds really interesting, you will turn your TS100 into a TS80 😁
Another question, I can't seem to figure out how to connect the rotary encoder, I have the one from your list, but what is what? Which pin is the R,L,B and ground...
You are right, I should update the scematic in order to make it more clear...for the moment I have prepared a picture for you. Hopefully it will help you
bit.ly/2X1sSgQ
@@sasiskas , Thanks again for your speedy reply. This is what I need!! I'm almost done with the build, this was the last piece of info i needed.
@@bammiez You are welcome, I hope that you had fun with this project 👍
@@sasiskas Id/do ...still not finished, but hopefully soon. Thanks again ;-)
It's been a while, but I finally got time to proceed with the soldering station. I have the board created, but no matter what I try (new 907 heating element, switching wires) I keep getting the message : "no iron". It does get warm a bit, I did not let it warm up too long, so I don't know how warm it will become if I let it.... Any idea what could be wrong?... I will recheck the wiring coming days.
Hi sasiskas I'm not an expert. I want to build a waxer. Your project can be adapted? I need the temperature between 30° and 60° c. Thanks. Great video.
the principle should be the same, but unfortunately I can not advise you, since I've never seen a waxer in my life. 😁
it looks like the reverse naming of npn or pnp on transistors 2n2222a and 2n29074 on the schematic .... am I wrong?
yes you are absolutely right, thank you for letting me know. I am uploading a new schematic right away
@@sasiskas
I also thank you very much ....
for what you have given here
@@sweatermerah3135 thank you for your kind words
After researching for a while i've been considering to make this build. Taking in account that where i live its hard to come by some of the components i'd start gathering them.(I have a series of questions).
1_The soldering iron I link below its the same you use here right?
2_You change the heating element because of the temperature readout? or because the quality of it?
3_Is there any important change i'd need to make if I wanted to use the soldering iron handle as it is ? (with the thermocouple)
4_ The voltage you step down with the buck converter, works both for the logic and for the heating element?
Thanks! and sorry if i might have flood you with questions lol
1. If you mean the link that I posted in the video description. Then yes, it is the same that I use, but be aware...most Chinese sellers on ebay, have multiples sources, so it is possible that you will not receive the exact same model as I did.
2. I changed the heating element, because of the quality. The one that came with the iron was not a ceramic heating element, it would degrade very fast and in general it would perform poorly compared to the one I finally used.
3. Yes, in that case you need to change the schematic a little bit. If you want I can help you (even though I suggest that you upgrade your heating element)
4. It is only for the logic and the LCD, the heating element is powered by 24V.
I suggest that you try to make this build, it is a really nice project. I also couldn't find most of the components, so I bought all of them from ebay and AliExpress.
If you have any questions feel free to ask.
@@sasiskas Allright thanks! I'll try to gather most stuff and when I have almost everything to make it i'll contact you if I have any doubts. Considering my budget is kind of low i'll step down the voltage with a linear 317, I guess the power consumption of the logic board is not that high right?
@@nico8273 An LM317 is also suitable for this project, exactly because the consumption of the logic is very low. It might be even a better solution that the buck converter, considering that the buck converter takes up too much space and makes everything harder to fit.
@@marco-me1uh I don't think so 😉
@@marco-me1uh First of all, this is not only about money. It is mostly about the pleasure of DIY. But still, the one I made is the best value, it cost me 32USD, and you can even make it for 25USD or less if you don't care about the esthetics. There are definitely no decent stations below that price, you can only find stations with analog control, with no display or in best case with a simple 7 segment display that can't display both the setpoint and the current temperature. I will not even mention, being open source, having PID control and being highly customizable. If you just want to do your job, you may even buy a simple iron without any temperature control for 2usd.
It's a outstanding diy project. Love it so much.
Can i add I2C liquid crystal display. How to change code ?
yes you can. It is very hard to explain. You can try to find information on google, or simple don't use I2C :)
@@sasiskas thanks for quick reply..you right. Without I2C simple and easy..i have another question. What OP- Amps usa as Alternative .. TL072 or LM324
@@aravindasandun7450 Recommended is ad822 or mcp602, mcp601.
Other alternatives are CA3260, CA5260, LMC6032, LMC6082, LMC6482, LT1013, LT1366, LT1368, LT1413, MC33172, MC33202, MPC602, MPC6022, MPC6272, MPC6282, TLC2202,
TLC2262, TLC2272, TLC252, TLC27, TLC272, TLC277, TLE2022, TLV272, TS922, TS922.
I have personally tested only ad822 and mcp602, I can't guarantee about other alternatives, but they should work...just make sure that you read the datasheet of your op amp and use the pins accordingly.
For example on MCP602 VDD(5v) is pin8 but on MCP601 VDD(+5) is pin7 .
@@sasiskas thank you so much.. i will do it..✌️✌️✌️
Can we use a 12 v power supply
Vansh Dhir Yes you can. The only difference is that it will not perform as well as a 24v power supply.
@@sasiskas perhaps you should edit the design to run from a 12v supply. Having to hunt a 24v supply is just a foolish design concept.
@@derekr7814 this soldering station needs 50-75watts in order to work optimally. It doesn't matter if you have a 12v or 24v power supply, as long as it can deliver enough power. The lowest the power of your power supply, the longest it will take for the iron to heat up. Also the lowest the power, the harder for the iron to maintain its temperature in demanding applications (like soldering a component with big thermal mass). In any case you can build a power supply similar to the one I'm using, just check out in my videos who I built mine.
can i use another op amp like LM328 for subtitution AD822 or MCP602 ??
u can use MCP602
Very Good project but the buck converter is only to power the arduino , I think you could use a LM317 or LM7805 linear regulator ... would save some board space and price.
I just used what I had laying around. I totally agree with you though...
@@sasiskas:) .. yup, I thought that was the case :) ... and again Congratulations on the project ..you truly had a Lot of care and attention to all details! Very very good! Unlike me I'm thinking about using a chocolate case for my build on a similar diy solder iron :) (will use the 358 amp-op, maybe the same Mosfet, LM7805 for the arduino pro-mini ... my display will be 7segment :( a bit more simple then yours and Way worse in terms of overall look and feel :)
@@sasiskasSpeaking of solder iron circuits .I found one that seems to be the opposite of what we are trying to do, that is PID controlled, display the all lot ... ua-cam.com/video/NklJvMe6OR0/v-deo.html ... the link shows one such solder iron projects with just on/off control. nothing more then a opamp used as both amplifier and comparator mode. Simpler then that is not possible :)
@@John_Smith__ Thank you for your kind words.
It doesn't matter if it looks good, as long as it works. You can always improve it later (piece by piece).
I hope you will enjoy doing it, as I did :-)
In the schematic, there's the sensor and heater connectors. Does it matter which pins of the soldering iron itself these connectors are connected to?
no the sensor and heater are not polarized. You can connect it anyway you like as long as you don't accidentally connect the heater to the sensor or vice versa.
Is there a way to calibrate a different iron Handle (with thermistor of course) since the one i have is a "KADA" soldering iron with different thermistor (its resistance is about 3 ohms at 25°c and NOT 50 ohms like the Hakko ones).Thanks.
are you sure that you are not confusing the thermistor resistance with the heater resistance? because on the hakko iron the heater resistance is 3 ohms...
In any way, there is a 500k calibration trim pot exactly for this purpose.There is also an option in the menu for this purpose. But you need to have a thermometer (thermometer of a multimeter should be fine) in order to calibrate it.
@@sasiskas Thanks for answering. Yes I'm sure the thermistor resistance is 3 ohms at 25°c and the resistance of the heater is about 13 ohms.
@@sasiskas Thanks a lot for confirmation. And yes I have a home made thermometer (based on thermocouple and max 6675) . Is it fine to calibrate my iron handle?
@@hedi875 Should be fine.
is it possible to have precision 5degree like on the hakko T12 with hakko907 if it"s well configuring?
yes. I also have a video for T12 iron. With precision of 2degreesC
@@sasiskas so the hakko907 could also very precise if the pid is well configured... is the hakko could be achieve the same performance with T12 on precision of degrees ?
@@rakotondramananasamuel3970 regarding accuracy they can be equally accurate if you tune and calibrate them properly.
I need to say its a great video. Does this will work with jbc t245 handle?
Hello dear. This is an old code. I have fixed a lot of things in my latest code changes. Please let me know if you need it.
Manoj Gupta Hello and thank you for your comment. Sure I would like to see your code. If you are kind enough, you can share it in the comment section for everyone to see.
Sure. Please visit my github page github.com/manojguptagit/SolderingStation
Do you use thermocouple or thermoresistor? Do you use the same schematic?
Luis Enrique Pariapaza Rumiche I use a thermoresistor 2:29
well it is a very simple schematic... not a rocket science. There was no reason to make it fancy, just wanted to keep it simple... I think it is quite obvious where the pins are, so far you are the only person to ask :P If you need help, feel free to ask.
Please make a video of tuning and calibration
A really fantastic project, thanks sasiskas. I have completed it and it's working flawlessly. I had (and still have) just one issue : sometimes (while tuning or calibrating for example) the encoder indications are erratic : when right or left rotating it sometimes the values increase and sometimes decreases and some other times jump for instance from 40% to 75% and vice versa . Have someone had this issue or is it caused by a poor quality encoder ?
thank you for your kind words. did you add the 100nf capacitors to the encoder? Their purpose is to prevent this exact problem from happening.
@@sasiskas Yes i added them but on the pcb not on the encoder itself (the distance of the cable between the encoder and the pcb is arround 10 cm.). May this be the problem?
Hedi normally it doesn't matter if it's on the PCB or the encoder. Make sure that they are connected properly. As a last resort try replacing the encoder.
@@sasiskas Very strange problem... Have checked the connections, to be sure i have also desoldered the three 100nf capacitors and resoldered them on the encoder itself but the problem still remains. I have also replaced the encoder by another identical one (I just have 2 identical encoders) without success. What i noticed is that this problem does not occur when the heater is OFF ie scrolling the main menu or modifying the set temperature while in OFF position are ok without problems. It happens when modifying the power percentage in tuning mode ?? very strange.
OK. Now it works much much better. I can scroll all the value without problem (it still bounces sometimes but on the whole it's ok). What i did... : Actually i'm using an encoder mounted on a breakout board (for arduino projects) so i think it has already the debouncing components installed . Therefore i desoldered the three 100 nf capacitors and got the issue fixed. I could after that proceed with the tuning and the calibration tasks and was impressed by the accuracy of the station . I re-verified the tuning and calibration values and everything was ok.
Thanks again sasiskas for the project.
Hi Sasikas, thanks for the video. I've done some Googling and I can't figure out why a thermoresistor would be better than a thermocouple for this project. Can you explain why you said "your iron most likely comes with a thermocouple. (thumbs down)."
Thank you for your comment. I should have explained it better. It is not that the thermocouple is bad and the thermoresistor is good. The difference is actually not the kind of temperature sensor that is used, but the heaters themselves (ceramic PTC vs nichrome wire).
The heating elements that come with a thermocouple use nichrome wire to heat up the tip. On the other hand the heating elements that come with a thermoresistor, use a ceramic PTC to heat up the tip.
The ceramic PTC heats up faster and it is more durable that the element using a nichrome wire. That's why it's better.
The reason I referred to them based on their temperature sensors, is to make clear that each kind of temperature sensor needs a different wiring.
very good project!
I couldn't find ad 822 or mcp601. Can I use op07 or another IC?
please help me
Recommended is ad822 or mcp601.
I dont know about op07 but other alternatives are CA3260, CA5260, LMC6032, LMC6082, LMC6482, LT1013, LT1366, LT1368, LT1413, MC33172, MC33202, MPC602, MPC6022, MPC6272, MPC6282, TLC2202,
TLC2262, TLC2272, TLC252, TLC27, TLC272, TLC277, TLE2022, TLV272, TS922, TS922
great, i would like to ask you where is the video for configuring the pid?
you need to adjust the Arduino code. I might upload a video in the future
@@sasiskas Please tell me when it is uploaded
I don't have a Arduino Pro Mini at hand , but I do have a Nano. If I use the same pins can I use the nano for this project ? (or an Uno maybe?....)
Thanks for this video, really helpful.
yes it will work without any problems
@@sasiskas Thanks for the quick reply.... much appreciated.
can you convert Lcd 1602 to OLED , ? 1602 so big for my station
If you want you can do it...it is not that hard. I'm sorry but I will not. As you can understand I can't make a custom version for everyone.
@@sasiskas SO SAD. I m not coder
@@thanho6654 I'm also not a coder 😁 with a little google research you can do it
great video ...
need little help :)
on the schematic R between 5v and third pin of AD822 is 100k (R5), on the thermocouple guide it is 10k, on the component location it is 100, which one is correct value
thank you very much
Hello, if you use a thermoresistor it is 100k between pin 3 and 5V.
If you use thermocouple it is 10K and it is not connected to 5V.
@@sasiskas thank you, you are the best 👍🙏
We love your project ur best boss thanks from India
Thank you, you are smart, and I see you can do a lot of Inventions, because you have big heart to share with all the world....:) :) :)
the iron handle can be replaced by t12 series iron handle?
No it can't. I am currently building a T12 soldering station. Stay tuned!
How much did the heating element cost? Do you have a link for it?
I mentioned all the prices at the beginning of the video.There are links for every component, on the video description.
Thanks for this very interesting project. I hope you post more!
I wasn't able to find the arduino code can you post the code please.
it's the first link in the video description. download the file "soldering-station.rar"
@@sasiskas I still can't open it
@@sasiskas I really loved the project and want to build it but I can't get the code
@@mishadhosen3135 just tell me your email and I'll send it to you.
Hi there!
i have been looking for your schematic and there is an issue.
The ground lines on the schematic are missing on the arduino board!
Kind regards
JOSÉ
Thank you for letting me know. I will fix it and I will upload new schematics as soon as possible
thank you once more. I just fixed and uploaded the schematics
Your welcome glad I can help and thank you for sharing this project
Can I use lmv358 ic instead of AD822
Because it is not available here.
It will probably won't work... ad822 or mcp602 will work 100%.
Cool project and I finally put all together but something went strong.the thing is that it heats up correctly but as soon as the buzzer beeps thermistor temperature goes down abruptly back to ambient temperature.
Can i use a IRLZ44N instead of the IRF?
Probably yes
Can i use MUR460 ULTRA FAST DIODE instead of UF5408?
Plz reply ..
Looks to be ok. You can probably use it
@@sasiskas thanks
can I use regular Zener diode as 1n4744a ?
maybe 1n4148?
You can you any 15v Zener diode. I think 1n4148 is not Zener.
@@sasiskas ok i get it.
How many pins have your aviation plug have? İ find 5 pin solder hand but your have 6?
@@umutkaradag2340 5pins, but I used only 4, I didn't use the ESD pin
İ use arduino nano and i2c lcd and i want to modify code but this code very hard. When i change it i get wrong in everywhere. Can you modify it for i2c lcd?
@@umutkaradag2340 just don't use i2c. It is easier.
Congratulations on the project!
I have a question:
Can the code be changed so that the readings do not change when the set temperature is reached? This skipping +/- a few degrees irritates the eye.
hello, yes it can be done. But I don't know if I will do it... I am quite busy lately. Hope you can understand
@@sasiskas Thanks for the reply! But for you, this code change will be much easier than someone else doing it. I hope you're free a little bit!
Thank you!
can you please upload single layer eagle board file for etching?thanks
sorry but I don't have one. If you want you can use the schematics and make one.
de cuanto es la fuente de alimentacion y que tipo recomiendas?
24v
50-75Watts
Sorry sir, I used 936 handles instead of 907 handles. Is that the same?
if it takes T12 tips then no. if it takes tips similar to 907 then yes.
For T12 tips I have made a different soldering station you can check it in my channel.
ok sir, I've seen it and I'm very grateful for your work, which is a question, if the thermistor used is not the same value will it affect?
@@thoriqulbirry7144 no problem.That's why you have the 500k trim pot. For tuning your station.
thank you very much sir, this might be very helpful. I will still wait for your work. that's very inspiring 👍
can u make a pcb with the schematic?
I already have one but I never tested it. For that pcb you need to use specific components with compatible footprint, you can't use just anything you like.
I suggest that you use a perfboard.That way you ate going to be more flexible to use different any kind of components, regardless of their footprint.
easyeda.com/makgio/Soldering_Iron_Controller_for_Hakko_907-504b42aa116c409cb38936b68c1fe191
sorry Mr. why if the solder has gone 100% down by itself to 0% as a result the solder is not hot
How well it's thermal capacity and recovery?
depends on the tip size.
Generally it performs like typical hakko 907 style soldering station.
For better performance you should use hakko T12 style.
@@sasiskas will you make a hot air station too?
i might do it, in the future
what alternative for IC AD822 if people dont have it ?
MCP601, generally you need a low noise op amp.
Can I use LM358 & TL072 to replace AD822 ? What minimum & maximum voltage to be filter with AD822 ?@@sasiskas
@@dhanielagung7381 I can not tell you for sure. If you already have one of those op amps, you can try using them. If it doesn't work fine, then you can buy the ones that I suggest.
have you ever try max6675 thermocople module? What are different this and your thermocople sensor of your soldering station project for sensitivity and the precision of temperature measurement ?@@sasiskas
@@dhanielagung7381 I have never used max6675. I am using a thermoresistor not a thermocouple. Generally for hakko907 type irons, the best quality heating element you can find comes with a thermoresistor. That's why I'm using a thermoresistor (it is part of the heating element)
It would be awesome to see a custom made board for this project!
I've designed one, long time ago.
oshwlab.com/makgio/Soldering_Iron_Controller_for_Hakko_907-504b42aa116c409cb38936b68c1fe191
Never tested it, though.
You saved my time. Hat off.
its okay to use 24v 3.42a power?
yes it's perfect
Well done bro ,Nice Work done ..Keep it up ..
Hi, do you have plans to upgrade this project since the T12 have tilt/vibration detect algorithm? 907 is still handy for solder tiny components.
And I guess the pin 2(black wire) is reserved for this to implement 😂
This is the best DIY soldering station project I can found on the internet, hope you can keeps updating it!
I might do it if I find some free time. I can't promise anything. Chances are low 🙁
Can I use ceramic disc capacitor as a multilayer ceramic capacitor
I made you project but it’s not work I don’t have multilayer ceramic capacitor
Hello, it doesn't matter if it is disc or multilayer. As long as it is the same rating.
Why it doesn't work?
@@sasiskas if i bypass temp sensor without op amp its work but with ic its not work
what ic do you use?
@@sasiskas same ad822
@@sasiskas thanks for reply
Its 100% working thanks. ❤
Why opamp ad822? What happened if I use lm 386??? Please help..
lm358
Price
Could we have the circuit diagram please?
I just edited the video description. You can find it in the video description or just go to 1:37
@@sasiskas Thank you, Sir, much appreciated :-)
@@sasiskas I will be implementing a variation on your design :-) Thank you so much for sharing.
Can i use pro micro instead of pro mini?
yes, no problem
it's work when we use 12V DC.?
yes
Cool keep up good work
Dapet ilmu cara melubangi box, suwun lik 😀
Bom dia onde encontrar o ad822, ou mcp602
You can use any rail-to-rail amplifier.
@@sasiskas tem sugestão de algum substituto para o ad822
@@sasiskas eu a fiz com arduino nano e no uno em protoboard funcionou bem, mais tive que criar um drive para o mosfet, aí o leitor de temperatura, Lm358 não agusta nem a pau, grato por sua ajuda
@@Jkkdgahus LM358 is not a rail to rail amplifier, that's why it doesn't work properly for you. Just do research online and see what is a rail to rail amplifier and you will understand.
I used a tl081cp op amp and a thermocouple to test but it always shows 25degrees celcius
You need to change the schematic if you want to use a thermocouple.
Check this bit.ly/2Q5iP83
Please help me. I did the same but it didn't work when attaching the soldering handle to it saying no iron and I can't fix it yet. I error where it is. Thank you very much.
What type of heating element do you use? Thermocouple or thermoresistor?
@@sasiskas sensor 50ohm
@@aipham4716 that means that you have a thermoresistor.
-Make sure that you have followed the schematics for thermoresistor and not for thermocouple.
-Make sure that your connections are solid and correct
-Make sure that you use a proper op-amp (AD822, MCP602, or something similar)
@@sasiskas There are 2 ways in the attached file. Now I follow the diagram or follow the screenshot.
@@aipham4716 follow Schematic_Soldering-Iron-Controller-for-Hakko-907_V1.1.pdf
You will sale this machine
Very cool project , i'm going to make it myself
hello sir,
i have no 'AD822ANZ' IC
please tell me the similar IC of 'AD822ANZ' which i use for this project.
MCP601
Thank You So Much for all the information you gave and I am now a subscribed member of yours!🙂☺️🙂
Doesit worke with t12 tip ?
Nicely done btw!
sorry no, I might make one based on T12 in the future
how can you speed up the heating process
There are a couple of ways by editing the code.
1. Find and edit the "max_power" in the code, values between (0-255)
2. By editing the PID values of the code (it is an advanced method)
@@sasiskas Thank you for the great video and I have been studying your schematic. Now to speed the heating process, if you set the value to 255, what will be the max current pumped into the element. What setting would you change on the PID? The proportional? then tweak the other 2 for stability?
@@dannyperry8070At 24v it shouldn't draw more than 4Amps. The purpose of max_power is to prevent your power supply from triggering the short circuit protection. If your psu is powerful enough, you can set max_power to 255.
You can just experiment, in the worst case your psu will just enable the short circuit protection and will stop delivering power.
PID is a very complex topic, it can't be discussed on the comment section, if you don't have the knowledge, I would suggest that you didn't touch it.
Nice project and good work, thanks.
Can you please provide the sch file for
the schematic and a pcb file for etching
😀👍
Thank you for your comment.
Unfortunately, I didn't draw my schematic for a single layer board. That means that it can't be etched. Also, when designing the schematic on easyEda I didn't cross check if the physical size of the components is the same as the ones that I used from the easyEDA library. Meaning that I don't have any files that can be used for PCB prototyping.
If you want you can recreate my drawing,and make it suitable for prototyping
@@sasiskas Many thanks for your concise and precise answer.
Congratulations 👍
Please make a video setting for Arduiono Pro Mini..
what do you mean?
I mean, does it need to be programmed or set for Arduino on the computer ..
@@faizalortega7285 there are many tutorials how to upload code to the arduino. You just need an ftdi adapter (FTDI Adapter ebay.to/2QVTdst or bit.ly/39oEDQv ) and a computer
ok, thanks for the knowledge,, sorry because I'm a beginner.
@@faizalortega7285 there is no reason to apologize. You are welcome to ask anything you like.
Please, I need your help, I do not know why but irfz44n after a very short time overheats
that happens because it is not properly driven. Check the BJTs. Make sure that they are connected properly and that they are in good condition
@@sasiskas please what is BJTs. I don't understand
1:00 the PNP and NPN transistors
I understand these are BJT2N2222,2907, I know them just as 2N ......, sorry
it's ok, no problem. Just try what I told you...normally your irfz44n shouldn't be hot...
Really neat finished product! Subscribed hoping to see more of this in the near future
Were is the link
First link in the video description
How to calibrate? mine will always say it's at 400C and it never says "no iron".
1. You either have a wrong connection.
So just double check your connections.
2. Or your station simply needs to be tuned.
For the tuning process you can check my video "how to make a T12 soldering station | Part 2" at 8:15.
The tuning process is the same for both of these stations.
3. Or you have a wrong/faulty/fake op amp. I suggest that you use an MCP602
sasiskas Ive checked my connections 6 times; the only thing confusing me is the 500k pot. Right now I have pin 1 and 2 connected to eachother and pin 3connected to the 220k. I will try another opamp because this one is from ali.
@@justinvanson2743 if the tuning process wont help..that means that probably there is a problem with your opamp.
I got mine from AliExpress as well. I was lucky I guess :)
Go for MCP602 it is cheaper, easier to find and less likely to be fake.
@@sasiskas if I connect an iron the temp will also not increase or decrease, it will get hot though but I'm afraid if I leave it on for too long it will start getting too hot
yes, I understand. It's 99% the op amp
I am missing something or the arduino never was programmed?
it was programmed before I test it on a breadboard. I just didn't film it.
@@sasiskas Thank you so much for sharing this project. Is completed and full working operational. Very weird to find out a project like this on youtube. I've found some but they are ended up so expensive to build and don't share so many details like this.
Is this project grounded protected?
I am trying to learn cellphone repair, I am experiencing my hakko 936 does not reach temp it needs to work on so small components, the iron heater ceramic element is thinner and shorten than the original hakko one , regardless what I do, it will not work to reach 400 celcius to say.
I am a budget guy wont spend $250 plus in soldering station T12 that I need. Is there a way to covert this project to T12 iron tips?
@@svsv9 Thank you for your kind words.
If you are asking whether the tip is grounded or not, then the answer is that the tip is not grounded. I did ground the tip because is was planning to do something else. But you can ground it anytime. The aviation plug has unpopulated pins, you can use that for grounding. Just connect the spring from the soldiering iron to the ground of your PCB.
Regarding the temperature, I don't know what could be wrong...my soldering station goes above 400C. But I don't think that you need more that 350C for phone repair...
No you can't convert this project into T12, But I'm trying to make a T12 Iron at this moment...if I succeed I will make a video.
You don't need to spend too much money for a T12 soldering station... I'm making one for less that 30$ including power supply.
You can also buy one from China for about 30$
Pleace Can I have a path scheme?
everything can be found in the video description
I had done everything correct its working i used lm358n instead of ad822 and using thermocouple handle and circuit but works fine until 307°c above gose on key but iron temp not cross above 307°c also no iron indication not working when iron not connected
max temperature ?
400°c
Hi ser
Why my solder ends at 310 °
even at 400 ° it is still 310°
hello. This might happen due to various reasons.
-You might need a stronger power supply.
-You might need a better cooling on your mosfet
-your mosfet might not be original
-also make sure that your temperature probe can measure up to 400c or more
@@sasiskas i am using a 24v 5a power supply
which confuses me when i set 400..the bottom line only ends at 310 ° it doesn't follow the top line i set 400 °
but when I checked on the thermometer the heat was above 400 °
@@irfansetiawan8399 did you tune your station? using the tune menu?
@@irfansetiawan8399 watch here how to tune your station. The process is the same. ua-cam.com/video/CZDSgRHYyjI/v-deo.html
@@sasiskas ok .. I'll see
10:30 are you okay??? :o
sorry !! I'm not good at electronics. I am trying to make this project can you show me how to adjust 10k and 500k micro-variable resistors for this project??
10K trim pots are used to adjust the contrast and brightness of the LCD screen. Just rotate them until the contrast and brightness of the screen are acceptable by you.
The 500K trim pot is used for tuning the station. Watch this video at 8:15 to see how you can tune your station ua-cam.com/video/CZDSgRHYyjI/v-deo.html
Thank you very much !! Maybe I skipped part 2. Then when I read the comments I discovered the pcb of this project. It was great !!
@@motorchannel8248 part2 is for a different soldering station. But the tuning procedure is the same.
Thank you !! I will continue this project, please help if I have more questions!!
Hello !! i used one transistor npn 2n2222a and one pnp bc557 but when power on these 2 transistors are very hot and buzzer beeps continuously. Can you help me !!
Thêm chế độ ngủ bằng cách dùng 1 dây đang bỏ trống đó và nối vô cônv tắc từ và khi gác lên chỗ bỏ tay hàn nó sẽ ngủ bằng cách thích hợp nam châm trên đó
Ý bạn là cái chân mass đang nối vô chân số 3 đó hã.Nếu mình đấu vô công tắc từ thì đấu làm sao bạn.
tran nam chỗ mass đó tháo bỏ chứ việt nam mình ko nối đất
yess!! i made this and it works...thank you.
U want to sell that station ?
sorry, it's not for sale.
If you want you can build one by yourself
The address could not be opened
which address?
@@sasiskas Schematic, Arduino Code and map of components:...The address of this
Would you please send me the scheme and code?
@@mankaldim3633 www.dropbox.com/sh/z5aq6law6hht7gr/AACGFQSnCKJimWMUwaseOOZ2a?dl=0
The dropbox address could not be opened
Good job!
Thank you.
solder on a 200-250 set goes up to 100% around 10min down to 0% and the solder doesn't heat