Dear anyone playing Elite Dangerous: Because the magnet used for the detent is only held in by an interference fit, it's simple to push it out with a screwdriver and then use the hole to mark a 75% point with a sharp point or narrow marker of some kind, so now you can stick it in supercruise easily.
Thanks for the video. Printed mine myself and was looking for a video showing how to do the swap. Great job going through all the steps. Swapping was a breeze.
i commented last night but i just wanted to comment again to say thanks for making this video. i ordered this hotas setup this morning and am also going to order this right now to get it upgraded asap
I only just got my Thrustmaster HOTAS, and I'm loving it but did notice the stickiness of the the throttle and this video 100% sold me on the upgrade ... of course my luck being what it is the shop is temporarily closed for a few more days lol ... I guess I can wait 2-3 days before ordering as would have to wait for the delivery anyway.
So I ended up using both the adhesive pad the magnet came mounted on as well as a 3M command strip like you tried. Using both together was perfect for a pronounced 50% detent for Star Wars Squadrons
At 12:07, why not simply remove the leaf springs and put the thing back together? Or install the upgrade without the leaf springs. Regarding the upgrade, there are many ways to install the bushings, but I think I'd try metal bushings at the back and plastic bushings at the front. :-)
I installed as per your video. Magnet strength way too weak, I added a couple pieces of card stock under the magnet on the slider and that helped a little but still too weak. I had a small, round neo magnet a little larger than the one that comes with the kit and sticks on the joystick. I just put it on the magnet and tried it again. Way better. If you hold it up the throttle assembly will slide down and be held by the magnetics but they do not touch. The stock setup has the magnets way too far apart.
Do not over tighten the silver screw with the washer that holds the sensor bracket onto the 3D printed part. If you over tighten it slightly, it makes it feel like nothing's worked
so does the reason why it takes so much force to move the throttle in it's stock configuration, because the housing is so heavy? i feel like that would contribute
One thing that wasn't mentioned in the video is that by using the 50% detent magnet you may gain an extra button, but you lose half your resolution of the throttle axis. I really like the idea of the linear bearings since I've tried plenty of fixes on mine, but I'll probably leave out the detent since I like the precision I get from having the entire range of motion as 0 - 100%.
Alternatively you can put the magnet in a different position that holds at 75% as an alternative to the supercruise auto-controller thing. Never "loop of shame" again :) I use a button to do 75% but could use the magnets and free up the button. But with the HOTAS set you don't really need more buttons (unless you fly with a squadron perhaps).
@@TaSwavo Or you could just pay attention and not let your ETA drop below 6 seconds and never have to do the "loop of shame". Then you'd have the button and the magnet available. ;^)
@@the_omg3242 ^^ I'm far too easily distracted; especially on long hauls. I think something like "I'll just write this while I wait" and boom! I've got a slow down warning and I'm swerving to avoid hitting the moon :(
As a recommendation to remedy the issue you have with the adhesive being thinner. I would take the whole thing apart and put a bit or cardstock under the magnet in the orange plastic piece; maybe a business card or the back of a notepad. This would push those two magnets a bit closer and firm up that detent.
I fiddle around with my throttle/flightstick, I play Elite Dangerous, I dunno how the hell UA-cam algorythm didn't bug me like no tomorrow about this channel. Subscribed!!! Edit: Wait, could it be that I recently started to watch the Lock Pick Lawyer channel...? Noooo... Really?
Excellent video, and good idea for a bespoke mechanism as opposed to all the ghetto solutions out there. That being said, I infinitely regret both the throttle and the rudder pedals in this hotas set. Both developed notchiness way too early. I get that they're cost-effective solutions, but I'm still wondering what I was thinking going for something with this sort of mechanism, especially the pedals (exposed rails and silicone grease, big no-no). I so wish the throttle was on an actual bearing. At least I'm glad to know that I haven't been the only one incessantly working on solutions. Cheers for the well-presented video!
Pleasure. I never tried the pedals myself and had thought with the twist rudder and throttle rudder there were good enough alternatives. I guess you have convinced me if that as well. Although brakes would be nice for flight sims! Yes the bearings make a big difference to enjoyment when you're using the throttle for sure!
Just got mine after watching your great tutorial, and really happy with it. Did someone found a way to mitigate the noise of the metal bearings? I love how smooth they slide but would definitely appreciate a way to make it a little more quiet.
Great video and editing and tone. Still no idea why TM put the logo on top edge of base upside down. Does this require grease or should bars be wiped clean? Any idea what strength magnet is in the kit? Could just get a slightly stro her one for a stronger detent. Price when you received it would be nice to know. He has shut the store down at this point which is a shame.
Thank you for the feedback. He periodically shuts the store and then opens again so don't he disheartened. Not sure magnet strength but it's a neodunium magnet so...whatever strength that size of magnet provides...? 🤷♂️. I left some grease on when I fitted the rails but only what was residual on the bars already. Hope that helps?
Thanks, just bought the last one in stock but I am sure he will make more. Ps I am thinking about sticking the magnet more near the top for afterburner detents, seems like it might work all the same.
The detent at 75% throttle might be better... especially for Elite Dangerous players as that's the default deceleration throttle setting! Also, are you able to recommend a good lubricant for the bearing version as that's the one I've ordered? Many Thanks fore this GREAT Guide Arvey! Susie
Hmm interesting thought re the 75%. Unfortunately I can't help with the bearing lubricant however from my experience it really doesn't need any. The glide is very smooth on the bearing version. Glad the video helped and enjoy the upgrade :)
Nyogel 767a is really great. I got my twcs a while ago used that to fix the issue. I think the thing shown in the video with nyogel would make it really good.
Thought I'd pop on and let you know that your installation demonstration and review me to order the Impulse Slider from CoreHawk3D. I just finished installing it and am so far delighted with it. I installed the magnetic detent as well. To be honest the detent is the main reason I went ahead and bought the Impulse Slider as otherwise my TWCS has been working perfectly. Which it ought to as I just bought it before Christmas 2020 (Bah Humbug!).
The throttle is fine if you can place it close by your torso, beside you, so that you don't push it forward or back, you push it down and then move your hand forward or back. The stiction comes from being able to rock back and forth, meaning if your elbow is well behind the throttle range, you will be pushing mostly forward and creating a toe-ing in of the throttle handle forward.
You're probably spot on. Only problem is in VR you want to line up where the controls are in real life to where they appear in VR to improve immersion, hence this wouldn't work in some cases eg Elite Dangerous
hi hope your well. im returning to e;lite dangerous and have the t1600 hotas and im going down the vr route. could you do a video on your vr button binds please as i cant find one and your contect is very clear and intresting. regards muddy
One of my leaf springs actualöy accidentily came out. Ever since there hans been no fiction. However the input is spotty at full throttle. Doesn't actualöy maintain full throttle input jsut goes up and down from around 92% to 100%. Doesn't affect flying to much, atleast in dcs and arma 3
I just installed my new slider! Many Thanks for your great video to help me with this! The 50% detent works great too! Spot on! It's going to take a while to get used to having the zero point in the middle of the throttle though ;o))
Quick question: Would it be an option after removing the backplate just to grease the metal bars to improve the action? Perhaps it wouldn't be as professional, but would it suffice?
To an extent it will help but as you've seen when I do the teardown, there are wells between the small contact plates which is where all the grease will pool so there will not be so much on the sliders themselves. By the time you buy some electrical-friendly grease it might be cheaper to buy the insert?!
Mine has 2 months. Apparently the main throttle slider Z, fluctuates and cant stop entirely. The target GUI shows the slider moving itself virtually even tho its static IRL. I have no clue what to do its new
I may be clueless as my first ever Hotas gets here tomorrow, but were the useless metal rods on the bottom plate actually potential replacement rails? Atleast in the video they kindof looked like they could be which would be a nice touch Also, LPL impression was spot freaking on
@@ArveyJay btw the original item you reviewed is no longer available, but someone else started making one. Here is the link in case you want to put it in the description. Thanks for your videos! etsy.me/3aKwY2x
@@ArveyJay Probably wouldnt be a bad idea to hot glue some extra weights in there too. I dont have the throttle yet so idk how it feels but it couldnt hurt.
@@riggomortiz9507 That might not be a bad idea ... how long ago did you get yours from ebay? also how was the quality? I might be getting hung up on new vs used for no reason
@@litlclutch if it is still in question even if not from ebay i got it secound hand and its awesome, he actually packed everything back so it felt like opening a new one.
I got my FCS a few weeks ago Definitely noticed the imprecise ness I guess I’m one of the lucky ones who’s friction screw worked to loosen it nice and smooth Then again I’ve never used any other So maybe it’s supposed to be different
Do you recommend modifying a brand spanking new TWCS? ...Or doesn't it need "fixing" till later on? Also, not that Im too worried about it do you know if Thrustmaster says it's naughty to open the back up and it voids their warranty, if it's still under one? One last thing: I noticed that they are all sold out at the moment and the price of these things is not listed. So I was wondering, roughly how much one is?
Hey mate, so whether you open a new one or not is up to you. I never did anything to my stuff while it was still in warranty but now that it's out of warranty I have been filled with enough unsubstantiated bravado to open these things up and have a gander. 😁 having said that, the stiction was an issue on the throttle from day one. I chatted with Corehawk recently and he had taken a break from ETSY so there was a temporary supply interruption but he said hes back to working on these so fingers crossed. In terms of price, I think it depends where you are but let's just say it's about the same as a dozen beers, where I'm from anyway 😁👍. Hope that helps.
@@ArveyJay Given your accent I think I might be currently located at where you are from. ...would that be a dozen Coopers Sparking Ales by any chance? I was reading somewhere that some people have been known to put the Nyogel lube on the TWCS as soon as they get it out of the box. I might become one of those people. I actually haven't purchased the T16000 yet because of the potential sticky rail problem but after finding out about the Impulse Slider I think I'll just go ahead and order the T16000 and TWCS now and be done with it.
Novel idea, get the manufacturer to upgrade both the throttle and the swivel stick in the manufacturing stage. It may cost a bit more in the end, but save everyone the headache of tearing into these products to fix something the manufacture could have fixed themselves.
Those Ball bearings needs to be clean from transport grease, and grease with proper one by inject, it is common in 3d printer. Good thing US also brass bearings, smooth as hell. I have bad experience with those igus (it is not plastics but igildur, patented materiał by igus)
I honestly didn't add any lubrication beyond what was already there. You certainly can but be aware of adding too much gunk if you go for the bearing option rather than the bushing option, as it might clog them up.
The plastic bushings would be used dry. No lube what do ever! The bearing needs proper grease. The grease that it comes with is reasonably good but mostly there as anti corrosion.
I haven't tried but there should be no problem given that the stick and throttle are effectively two different controllers (with their own plugs etc). Maybe Google it before buying? Good luck.
I wouldn't call $40.21 (NZD) for the unit, and $27.65 (NZD) shipping relativity cheap to buy, so I will be passing it by.. But thank you for showing people how to do it :)
I think the nyogel (or other such) would pool in the groves and only provide a modicum of improvement, whereas this is a mechanical solution which shouldn't degrade.
I might get a 12 key usd thing, and print a mount to put them in front of my throttle. More buttons! Those polymer bearings are self lubricating. Don't oil the rails.
As I always say, more buttons is always more buttons. The only reason I wouldn't do it myself is because of playing in VR so those would just be more things I can't see 😁
Is it not possible that the external rods are spares in case the actual slider rods wear, and not just for decoration? And by the way, it's Voila with a V not Wallah, funny these French you know!
It looks like there was barely any lubrication on the metal sliders to begin with so i imagine just buying some tacky grease and spreading all over the metal rods would already improve the action alot.
It helps very very little compared to doing the upgrade. Don't get me wrong, it helps a bit. But the upgrade transforms it into something that feels super premium.
The TWCS has a friction adjuster screw to help with that... Also, your hand needs to be CENTERED on the TWCS. This is in the user manual 😐 I loosened mine and now it slides like butter. The only time it catches is if my hand is NOT centered because then I'm applying more force on one side of the slider and not equally across the slider. I get that you extremely briefly mentioned there was a loosening screw but you did you bother to try and work with it and find how it works?
Yes I did. In fact from the moment I found it had one, I played with it in the loosest setting. The issue with the loosening screw is that it will not eliminate the stiction, won't address play in the handle, and as you say is reliant on you being exactly centred, so i guess unless you have a hand sized exactly the same as the model they used when they designed it... it won't work too well.
I killed my throttle trying this mod. Brand new throttle now in bin. The grey cylinders did not stay in the orange casing. Not attenting this mod again. Another 200 bux down the drain including another new throttle.
Not all of us are crazies. I use metric every chance I get. The only thing I wish metric had was a equivalent to the imperial foot. I know there is a decimeter (10 cm), but nobody uses that (and no cad software either, which cad is one of the reasons I got into metric). I mean its easy enough to convert mentally because metric wasn't invented by a drunk mathematician rolling dice, but would still be kinda nice imho.
As one of your down stairs neighbors, when it comes to weight we use Grams more often than OZ's when weighing things less than a LBS. Now Fluid OZ's on the other hand...
You can but it doesn't help much. It helps a little bit. But doing the upgrade with the bearings makes it feel like a $1000 throttle. Maybe I'm exaggerating there but it feels extremely smooth. Like I can't imagine it feeling much better. It's so satisfying to slide it now.
ua-cam.com/video/PndDrVpef6U/v-deo.html These brackets that hold the rails down, when screwed in lightly, push the orange frame against the housing of the throttle. The stick will not move. I think I have a dud. I have the rails going through the orange frame, through the plastic rails. They're loose and smooth. They were absolutely great. But as soon as I screw this down, that orange housing is stuck, held against the housing. I had to half-tighten these in order for the throttle to move at all. when assembled, I had an uneven feel across the entire rail. A massive downgrade.
Message him! He seems to be constantly producing. I sent a message and he's like "yeah gimme 4 hours and I will post more and let you know". I ordered literally within 5 hours of messaging him.
I own one, and after a year, the throttle motion is already defective. It won’t got to 0 when pushed forward. This product is an expensive piece of thrash.
Can you adjust the range in the target software to resolve the problem ie making 5% into zero? Dont get me wrong i hate the software but it might fix the issue for you?
@@ArveyJay no. The problem is that the z axis potentiometer is probably giving up. Or the axis slightly overshoot it’s maximum position. That can be fixed. But honestly, after only a year? Not even weekly use. The sliders should have been teflon blocks, not plastic on metal.
Dear anyone playing Elite Dangerous:
Because the magnet used for the detent is only held in by an interference fit, it's simple to push it out with a screwdriver and then use the hole to mark a 75% point with a sharp point or narrow marker of some kind, so now you can stick it in supercruise easily.
Good idea!
Thanks for the video. Printed mine myself and was looking for a video showing how to do the swap. Great job going through all the steps. Swapping was a breeze.
Hey do you mind linking where you got the 3D print files from? Many thanks.
Hi. Very well made video.
Full of information and details.
One of the best I've watched.
Congrats.
I laughed at the LPL nod
For 600 likes your video quality is much better than what I was expecting.
Thanks mate. I'm a victim of the youtube algorithm 🤣
I received your upgrade in the mail the other day and immediately installed it. It works perfectly, very well designed and documented, big thanks!
Glad you're enjoying it and that the video helped. Full disclosure I didnt make the upgrade, it's by Corehawk3D, but again, glad you like it!
@@ArveyJay Thanks, I´ll also thank him😁
I got one! Works great. I get what you mean by the detent feeling muddy but it's not bad and definitely better than not having one.
Glad it's working for you :)
i commented last night but i just wanted to comment again to say thanks for making this video. i ordered this hotas setup this morning and am also going to order this right now to get it upgraded asap
Nice one. Glad you liked the vids and enjoy! 😁👍
I only just got my Thrustmaster HOTAS, and I'm loving it but did notice the stickiness of the the throttle and this video 100% sold me on the upgrade ... of course my luck being what it is the shop is temporarily closed for a few more days lol ... I guess I can wait 2-3 days before ordering as would have to wait for the delivery anyway.
Glad the video helped you! Enjoy once you get it.
So I ended up using both the adhesive pad the magnet came mounted on as well as a 3M command strip like you tried.
Using both together was perfect for a pronounced 50% detent for Star Wars Squadrons
Good work. I'll have to revisit mine I think.
I might have to try that!
Thanks for the great tutorial, i just installed my one now and love how much it improves the slide of the throttle.
At 12:07, why not simply remove the leaf springs and put the thing back together? Or install the upgrade without the leaf springs. Regarding the upgrade, there are many ways to install the bushings, but I think I'd try metal bushings at the back and plastic bushings at the front. :-)
Hmmm. It's a thought!
I'm wondering if that "crunchy" feeling was due to those few ball bearings that had fallen out?
I installed as per your video. Magnet strength way too weak, I added a couple pieces of card stock under the magnet on the slider and that helped a little but still too weak. I had a small, round neo magnet a little larger than the one that comes with the kit and sticks on the joystick. I just put it on the magnet and tried it again. Way better. If you hold it up the throttle assembly will slide down and be held by the magnetics but they do not touch. The stock setup has the magnets way too far apart.
That way my thinking as well. I like your solution with the larger magnet.
Do not over tighten the silver screw with the washer that holds the sensor bracket onto the 3D printed part. If you over tighten it slightly, it makes it feel like nothing's worked
I just got this TWCS throttle and now I realize that I need to work on it.
Just ordered one after watching the video. Thanks very much.
Bonus points for cleaning the surfaces where you're gonna double sided aoe ("hooky tape") stuff.
Makes a real difference.
so does the reason why it takes so much force to move the throttle in it's stock configuration, because the housing is so heavy? i feel like that would contribute
No it's the configuration of the slider itself with poor contact points and areas where the lubricant pools and no longer helps the motion.
Thanks for the vid showing the replacement. I 3D printed out my own slider and bought the bushings off of Amazon.
One thing that wasn't mentioned in the video is that by using the 50% detent magnet you may gain an extra button, but you lose half your resolution of the throttle axis.
I really like the idea of the linear bearings since I've tried plenty of fixes on mine, but I'll probably leave out the detent since I like the precision I get from having the entire range of motion as 0 - 100%.
Alternatively you can put the magnet in a different position that holds at 75% as an alternative to the supercruise auto-controller thing. Never "loop of shame" again :)
I use a button to do 75% but could use the magnets and free up the button. But with the HOTAS set you don't really need more buttons (unless you fly with a squadron perhaps).
@@TaSwavo Or you could just pay attention and not let your ETA drop below 6 seconds and never have to do the "loop of shame".
Then you'd have the button and the magnet available. ;^)
@@the_omg3242 ^^ I'm far too easily distracted; especially on long hauls. I think something like "I'll just write this while I wait" and boom! I've got a slow down warning and I'm swerving to avoid hitting the moon :(
True, true, after 8 hours of jumping in a play session your brain gets a bit ruffled! :)
As a recommendation to remedy the issue you have with the adhesive being thinner. I would take the whole thing apart and put a bit or cardstock under the magnet in the orange plastic piece; maybe a business card or the back of a notepad. This would push those two magnets a bit closer and firm up that detent.
This must have been after I got my setup.
Yes, I had the same issue, but I used Silicone grease instead..
I fiddle around with my throttle/flightstick, I play Elite Dangerous, I dunno how the hell UA-cam algorythm didn't bug me like no tomorrow about this channel. Subscribed!!!
Edit: Wait, could it be that I recently started to watch the Lock Pick Lawyer channel...? Noooo... Really?
lol anything is possible with... THE ALGORYTHM Dun, Dun, Daaaaaan!
Excellent video, and good idea for a bespoke mechanism as opposed to all the ghetto solutions out there. That being said, I infinitely regret both the throttle and the rudder pedals in this hotas set. Both developed notchiness way too early. I get that they're cost-effective solutions, but I'm still wondering what I was thinking going for something with this sort of mechanism, especially the pedals (exposed rails and silicone grease, big no-no). I so wish the throttle was on an actual bearing. At least I'm glad to know that I haven't been the only one incessantly working on solutions. Cheers for the well-presented video!
Pleasure. I never tried the pedals myself and had thought with the twist rudder and throttle rudder there were good enough alternatives. I guess you have convinced me if that as well. Although brakes would be nice for flight sims! Yes the bearings make a big difference to enjoyment when you're using the throttle for sure!
Just got mine after watching your great tutorial, and really happy with it.
Did someone found a way to mitigate the noise of the metal bearings? I love how smooth they slide but would definitely appreciate a way to make it a little more quiet.
Hopefully someone has but yes that was the main reason I steered away from the metal bearings for my own use. Glad you like it!
Great video and editing and tone. Still no idea why TM put the logo on top edge of base upside down.
Does this require grease or should bars be wiped clean? Any idea what strength magnet is in the kit? Could just get a slightly stro her one for a stronger detent.
Price when you received it would be nice to know. He has shut the store down at this point which is a shame.
Thank you for the feedback. He periodically shuts the store and then opens again so don't he disheartened. Not sure magnet strength but it's a neodunium magnet so...whatever strength that size of magnet provides...? 🤷♂️. I left some grease on when I fitted the rails but only what was residual on the bars already. Hope that helps?
Excellent vid! Appreciate much all the attention to the details!
Got mine in the mail today and its amazing, thanks Jay
Awesome. Enjoy.
Thanks, just bought the last one in stock but I am sure he will make more. Ps I am thinking about sticking the magnet more near the top for afterburner detents, seems like it might work all the same.
Yeah good idea. You might need to pad it up a bit more since the magnets will be further apart. Let me know how it works for you!
@@ArveyJay I'm going to try that also since I spend most of my time in DCS. I'll post back after the item arrives.
@@rogerclark1480 yep definitely let me know!
@@ArveyJay - It's on the way, should arrive Friday.
@@rogerclark1480 nice! You won't know yourself once you get it! Such a better flying experience!
The detent at 75% throttle might be better... especially for Elite Dangerous players as that's the default deceleration throttle setting! Also, are you able to recommend a good lubricant for the bearing version as that's the one I've ordered? Many Thanks fore this GREAT Guide Arvey!
Susie
Hmm interesting thought re the 75%. Unfortunately I can't help with the bearing lubricant however from my experience it really doesn't need any. The glide is very smooth on the bearing version. Glad the video helped and enjoy the upgrade :)
@@ArveyJay it's been shipped... Just waiting for it to arrive 😊
Cheers Arvey!
Nyogel 767a is really great. I got my twcs a while ago used that to fix the issue. I think the thing shown in the video with nyogel would make it really good.
Thought I'd pop on and let you know that your installation demonstration and review me to order the Impulse Slider from CoreHawk3D. I just finished installing it and am so far delighted with it. I installed the magnetic detent as well. To be honest the detent is the main reason I went ahead and bought the Impulse Slider as otherwise my TWCS has been working perfectly. Which it ought to as I just bought it before Christmas 2020 (Bah Humbug!).
The throttle is fine if you can place it close by your torso, beside you, so that you don't push it forward or back, you push it down and then move your hand forward or back. The stiction comes from being able to rock back and forth, meaning if your elbow is well behind the throttle range, you will be pushing mostly forward and creating a toe-ing in of the throttle handle forward.
You're probably spot on. Only problem is in VR you want to line up where the controls are in real life to where they appear in VR to improve immersion, hence this wouldn't work in some cases eg Elite Dangerous
The throttle works. Its just not that smooth. Making minute throttle inputs is sometimes difficult and makes formation flying/a2a refueling difficult
And yea the throttle works without it, but if the slide smoothness bothers you then this provides a fix 😁👍
Awesome transformation and not complicated to do!! Tks
Glad it worked for you!
@@ArveyJay I didn't try yet. But I will
do you need to lubricate these bearings? people seem to use nyogel 767a a lot
Perhaps but I found the residual lubricant on the rails to be enough to not need it.
The linear bearings should be packed with grease. I like white lithium. It tastes best
HAHAHAHA
hi hope your well. im returning to e;lite dangerous and have the t1600 hotas and im going down the vr route. could you do a video on your vr button binds please as i cant find one and your contect is very clear and intresting.
regards
muddy
Good idea. Will work on that as soon as I can get it in my schedule!
One of my leaf springs actualöy accidentily came out. Ever since there hans been no fiction. However the input is spotty at full throttle. Doesn't actualöy maintain full throttle input jsut goes up and down from around 92% to 100%. Doesn't affect flying to much, atleast in dcs and arma 3
thank you for the directions and review!
I just installed my new slider! Many Thanks for your great video to help me with this! The 50% detent works great too! Spot on! It's going to take a while to get used to having the zero point in the middle of the throttle though ;o))
Still looking for a similar solution for TFRP
🤞
maybe the plastic one is like that in order to hold the grease in there?
Quick question: Would it be an option after removing the backplate just to grease the metal bars to improve the action? Perhaps it wouldn't be as professional, but would it suffice?
To an extent it will help but as you've seen when I do the teardown, there are wells between the small contact plates which is where all the grease will pool so there will not be so much on the sliders themselves. By the time you buy some electrical-friendly grease it might be cheaper to buy the insert?!
@@ArveyJay thank You for your answer!
Cleaning the metal-slider-sticks and remove the press-down-bridge (and the magnet) 😉
my leaf spring screw isant attached to the nut that's not good right there both too shot
do i have to lube it for the polymer sliders to work?
I didnt find you needed to.
Did you re-lube the slides? If so with what? Thanks 👍
FYI: The bearing is called “LMUU8 Linear Bearing”
Thank you!
@@ArveyJay NP, was meant for people who need to order it if they have a printer yk. Cheers for the video! My bearings are coming in today
@@squaddutcharmedforces9049 enjoy!👍
Mine has 2 months. Apparently the main throttle slider Z, fluctuates and cant stop entirely. The target GUI shows the slider moving itself virtually even tho its static IRL.
I have no clue what to do its new
just return it and get your money back or a new one! It's so new there shouldn't be an issue.
I may be clueless as my first ever Hotas gets here tomorrow, but were the useless metal rods on the bottom plate actually potential replacement rails? Atleast in the video they kindof looked like they could be which would be a nice touch
Also, LPL impression was spot freaking on
Lol, thanks. I didn't end with "in any case, that's all I have for you today..." though. Unfortunately no, the rods are just decorative.
@@ArveyJay btw the original item you reviewed is no longer available, but someone else started making one. Here is the link in case you want to put it in the description. Thanks for your videos!
etsy.me/3aKwY2x
@@ArveyJay probably just yo add weight.
@@animalmother3526 I think you're spot on!
@@ArveyJay Probably wouldnt be a bad idea to hot glue some extra weights in there too. I dont have the throttle yet so idk how it feels but it couldnt hurt.
I'd really like to get a Thrustmaster throtle & stick but prices have gotten crazy lately
Yes I heard that was the case! Hopefully things settle down a bit soon.
Try eBay I was able to get this exact hotas for like 80 bucks
@@riggomortiz9507 That might not be a bad idea ... how long ago did you get yours from ebay? also how was the quality? I might be getting hung up on new vs used for no reason
@@litlclutch if it is still in question even if not from ebay i got it secound hand and its awesome, he actually packed everything back so it felt like opening a new one.
I got my FCS a few weeks ago
Definitely noticed the imprecise ness
I guess I’m one of the lucky ones who’s friction screw worked to loosen it nice and smooth
Then again I’ve never used any other
So maybe it’s supposed to be different
Do you recommend modifying a brand spanking new TWCS? ...Or doesn't it need "fixing" till later on? Also, not that Im too worried about it do you know if Thrustmaster says it's naughty to open the back up and it voids their warranty, if it's still under one?
One last thing: I noticed that they are all sold out at the moment and the price of these things is not listed. So I was wondering, roughly how much one is?
Hey mate, so whether you open a new one or not is up to you. I never did anything to my stuff while it was still in warranty but now that it's out of warranty I have been filled with enough unsubstantiated bravado to open these things up and have a gander. 😁 having said that, the stiction was an issue on the throttle from day one. I chatted with Corehawk recently and he had taken a break from ETSY so there was a temporary supply interruption but he said hes back to working on these so fingers crossed. In terms of price, I think it depends where you are but let's just say it's about the same as a dozen beers, where I'm from anyway 😁👍. Hope that helps.
@@ArveyJay Given your accent I think I might be currently located at where you are from. ...would that be a dozen Coopers Sparking Ales by any chance?
I was reading somewhere that some people have been known to put the Nyogel lube on the TWCS as soon as they get it out of the box. I might become one of those people. I actually haven't purchased the T16000 yet because of the potential sticky rail problem but after finding out about the Impulse Slider I think I'll just go ahead and order the T16000 and TWCS now and be done with it.
Did you try the metal bearings afterwards in order to test the final feeling?
Page link no longer valid is this part available anywhere?
The guy sometimes runs out so deactivates it hopefully it will be available again soon. COREHAWK3D is the man you're looking for.
@@ArveyJay Found it Thank you this is great exactly what i need for mine
@@stephenscott9837 nice!
Bit off topic, I'm wondering, are the rudder paddles analog or just binary switches on the throttle?
Definitely analogue. I'm using then as digital paddles in ED but in flying games where I use them as the rudder they are smooth analogue motion.
@@ArveyJay awesome thanks mate.
Novel idea, get the manufacturer to upgrade both the throttle and the swivel stick in the manufacturing stage. It may cost a bit more in the end, but save everyone the headache of tearing into these products to fix something the manufacture could have fixed themselves.
Novel idea indeed!
Grease the bearings and it will quiet down.
Why did they not use ball bearings in the bushings?
No longer being sold on etsy :( …?
Those Ball bearings needs to be clean from transport grease, and grease with proper one by inject, it is common in 3d printer. Good thing US also brass bearings, smooth as hell. I have bad experience with those igus (it is not plastics but igildur, patented materiał by igus)
Polymer or Hybrid?
do you grease or put the oil in the bearing/bushing??
I honestly didn't add any lubrication beyond what was already there. You certainly can but be aware of adding too much gunk if you go for the bearing option rather than the bushing option, as it might clog them up.
@@ArveyJay thanks for you reply
The plastic bushings would be used dry. No lube what do ever! The bearing needs proper grease. The grease that it comes with is reasonably good but mostly there as anti corrosion.
have you tried to use nyogel in the TWCS ? How does this compare ?
This mod blows all lubricants out of the water.
Any Idea when these will be avaliable? Im really looking to get one.
Not sure mate, they come and go on the store as he keeps up with demand. Keep and eye out or drop him an email.
I'm interested in buying this HOTAS but i want to use only TWCS throttle with my Logitech force 3D pro joystick. Can they work together?
I haven't tried but there should be no problem given that the stick and throttle are effectively two different controllers (with their own plugs etc). Maybe Google it before buying? Good luck.
I use the TWCS with a CH stick - as Arvey states, the TWCS should work with any combination of stick.
I use the TWCS with a CH stick - as Arvey states, the TWCS should work with any combination of stick.
Any idea about a similar mod for the rudders?
Sorry no. Hope there is one out there!
How much does it cost? I'm thinking of buying one, once they are available again.
Depending on your country but let's say less than a 12 pack of beers as a rough guide :)
@@ArveyJay nice, thanks!☺️
I wouldn't call $40.21 (NZD) for the unit, and $27.65 (NZD) shipping relativity cheap to buy, so I will be passing it by.. But thank you for showing people how to do it :)
Fair enough. It has to fit in with what your needs are. Glad you found the video useful :)
Hi Arvey, is this or nyogel better? Thanks.
I think the nyogel (or other such) would pool in the groves and only provide a modicum of improvement, whereas this is a mechanical solution which shouldn't degrade.
I might get a 12 key usd thing, and print a mount to put them in front of my throttle. More buttons!
Those polymer bearings are self lubricating. Don't oil the rails.
As I always say, more buttons is always more buttons. The only reason I wouldn't do it myself is because of playing in VR so those would just be more things I can't see 😁
Great how to vid. Thanks!
Is it not possible that the external rods are spares in case the actual slider rods wear, and not just for decoration? And by the way, it's Voila with a V not Wallah, funny these French you know!
It looks like there was barely any lubrication on the metal sliders to begin with so i imagine just buying some tacky grease and spreading all over the metal rods would already improve the action alot.
It does, but as you'll see there are wells where the lube will pool and the effective running surface area is pretty small on the original part.
It helps very very little compared to doing the upgrade. Don't get me wrong, it helps a bit. But the upgrade transforms it into something that feels super premium.
Seems to be no longer available, at least at the moment.
Yeah there has been a shortage worldwide during covid and the various look lockdowns... for obvious reasons. Hopefully available again soon for you!
geez guys, all that work for video games🤣 jk. great video, very detailed!
Okay okay, you made me laugh, you deserve a like
The TWCS has a friction adjuster screw to help with that... Also, your hand needs to be CENTERED on the TWCS. This is in the user manual 😐 I loosened mine and now it slides like butter. The only time it catches is if my hand is NOT centered because then I'm applying more force on one side of the slider and not equally across the slider. I get that you extremely briefly mentioned there was a loosening screw but you did you bother to try and work with it and find how it works?
Yes I did. In fact from the moment I found it had one, I played with it in the loosest setting. The issue with the loosening screw is that it will not eliminate the stiction, won't address play in the handle, and as you say is reliant on you being exactly centred, so i guess unless you have a hand sized exactly the same as the model they used when they designed it... it won't work too well.
Just remove the Grease that is in , and apply Silicon spray , or fine machine oil , it will slide .
Lol at Lock Picking Lawyer reference :-)
1:46 LockPickingLawyer, LOL.
Link no worky
Great job, you've earned a sub!
Thanks! 👍
I killed my throttle trying this mod.
Brand new throttle now in bin.
The grey cylinders did not stay in the orange casing.
Not attenting this mod again.
Another 200 bux down the drain including another new throttle.
I have one of these for sale. It has the metal bearings.
Hawk's Etsy store is down. I want to smooth it out. Does he intend to open production back up or is there a similar product out there I can find?
I would wager it's just temporary but I'll reach to him for you. Cheers for the headsup.
@@ArveyJay I found out sales will resume on the 2nd. Appreciate it
I think you're forgetting that we Canadians use the metric system. We want nothing to do with the crazies in the apartment below us.
🤣
Not all of us are crazies. I use metric every chance I get. The only thing I wish metric had was a equivalent to the imperial foot. I know there is a decimeter (10 cm), but nobody uses that (and no cad software either, which cad is one of the reasons I got into metric). I mean its easy enough to convert mentally because metric wasn't invented by a drunk mathematician rolling dice, but would still be kinda nice imho.
@@nathangehman7018 🤣🤣🤣 gold.
As one of your down stairs neighbors, when it comes to weight we use Grams more often than OZ's when weighing things less than a LBS. Now Fluid OZ's on the other hand...
can i just oil the metal rods?
You can but it doesn't help much. It helps a little bit. But doing the upgrade with the bearings makes it feel like a $1000 throttle. Maybe I'm exaggerating there but it feels extremely smooth. Like I can't imagine it feeling much better. It's so satisfying to slide it now.
Guys, push the throttle forward and look at the screw appear at the bottom. Loosen or tighen that screw to loosen or tighten the slide.
ua-cam.com/video/PndDrVpef6U/v-deo.html These brackets that hold the rails down, when screwed in lightly, push the orange frame against the housing of the throttle. The stick will not move. I think I have a dud.
I have the rails going through the orange frame, through the plastic rails. They're loose and smooth. They were absolutely great.
But as soon as I screw this down, that orange housing is stuck, held against the housing.
I had to half-tighten these in order for the throttle to move at all.
when assembled, I had an uneven feel across the entire rail. A massive downgrade.
Great mod just use the nylon one's
Out of stock 😭
I wish it wasn't sold out.
Message him! He seems to be constantly producing. I sent a message and he's like "yeah gimme 4 hours and I will post more and let you know". I ordered literally within
5 hours of messaging him.
At almost 50€ with shipping (Europe, Germany)... Man...
I own one, and after a year, the throttle motion is already defective. It won’t got to 0 when pushed forward. This product is an expensive piece of thrash.
Can you adjust the range in the target software to resolve the problem ie making 5% into zero? Dont get me wrong i hate the software but it might fix the issue for you?
@@ArveyJay no. The problem is that the z axis potentiometer is probably giving up. Or the axis slightly overshoot it’s maximum position. That can be fixed. But honestly, after only a year? Not even weekly use. The sliders should have been teflon blocks, not plastic on metal.
@@TheSiriusEnigma yeah it's a bit poor isn't it!
How can I get the file to print? I'm from Brasil...
You should throw that screwdriver as far as you can... in to a lake.
It cost $25 with $30 for shipping.
Oh its sold out
"Grab yourself a beverage"
*water*
🤣