Easy fix for T16000M stick/twist rudder - Complete tutorial
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- Опубліковано 23 сер 2024
- Want a detailed tutorial teaching you how to fix the dreaded twist-rudder problem? This is your one stop shop video. Please note that if your stick is still in warranty I would recommend sending it back for a repair. This is presented as a last resort when the next option would be to just buy another controller.
The software at the end can be accessed by typing joy.cpl into your searchbar (on windows at least) and running that, then going into the properties for the stick. Hope that helps.
If you have trouble with the trigger rod - here's a dedicated video dealing with that: • Easy fix for T16000M s...
If you have trouble with the trigger rod - here's a dedicated video dealing with that: ua-cam.com/video/GSmK62tsq9g/v-deo.html
hello their. just wondered if you know how too modify ,left right up down with hall effect sensors ,like from analog too digital, i have a speedlink black widow quite old, i guess i got used too the sensitivity being off until i heard about the sensors ,making the sensitivity a lot better?im using fsx .thank you....
potentiometer?
Unfortunately I know as much about hall effect sensors as I do about being a plumber on mars. Hopefully you can find another video/source of info here. Good luck.
@@ArveyJay thank you for your reply,ill keep lookin,erm just another small thing if you had too choose a new flight stick which one would it be[no pressure then],ive looked at reviews [you tube]n lots of people say this went wrong that went wrong,even if when you spend quite a lot of money on one, kind of puts you off going too the shop n and buying it.....?thank you again....
@@trevorbarber7172 tricky to answer since I'm still using and enjoying the t16000m and TWCS throttle. I guess if money was infinite I'd maybe look into the Warthog stick and for the throttle I might even look at the thrustmaster tca (with both addons), or essentially the throttle with the most hat stiches and buttons so i can access as many functions as possible with the thumb, and/or without moving my hand off the throttle. Because I play in VR, the more tactile and super obvious the buttons/switches are, the better!
My friend you disassembled a joystick, reassembled it and fixed the issue. There's no way around it, you *are* a tinkerer.
Touché, I guess :)
😂this is awesome. Great vid btw.
I was able to avoid a big portion of this disassembly. I followed your instructions up until the trigger pin part. I left that in and instead of disassembling it further, I found that by this point I had removed enough screws to allow me to spread the controller apart just enough to access the twister/sensor thing. I cleaned it with isopropyl alcohol and put it back together. No nipples of doom to worry about and only took about 5 minutes total. Maybe I was lucky, but thought i'd pass it on in case anyone wanted to try it first.
Nice work mate. Yes a few others have done it that way as well. I did mine that way also to explain the inner workings. Glad it worked for you!
You can easily pop the buttons out if you removed both sides of the stick assembly. Then pop them in again, once the assembly is loosly put together, so without screws. (If it fails, you can quikcly try again.)
This was a really good advice, and much easier to know what to do due to the full disassembly in the video. Now it works like a charm again! Large thanks to both and especially Jay
Thank you for this! I was just able to fix mine with almost no frustration! Just need to open up the stick just enough to see the sensor shown in the video and use the swab with iso, and boom!
Doing this made the process significantly easier and quicker for me, thank you John! I did remove the screw for the trigger, but only to allow the bottom part of the stock to come apart in its halves. I rested it on the sides of the sensor square and did my cleaning from there. Once done, simply reverse to put everything back together and I was good to go.
Every 6 months to a year... I come back to this video still to fix mine.
Bummer you have to come back, but glad it continues to work for you!
@@ArveyJay I'm just thankful you made this video! Legend!
Old school - "rolled a 16 or better on your dexterity." Love it. Thanks for this. Mine hasn't done this yet but now I'm prepared if it does. AJ
After about a year or so of inactivity I fired up MSFS2020 and plugged in my Thrustmaster T.16000M FCS. Pulling hard to the right. Bad rudder. I followed your instructions up to a point. I used my $15 Aliexpress lockpicking kit thingys to push the trigger pin out and pulled it quite easily with pliers. Loosened the screws. I used the thing that looks like a speculum. :o Like reverse tweezers. Sprayed some Servisol Electronic Circuit Board Cleaner into the widened gap. Gave it a few twists. Tightened the screws. It works PERFECTLY now. Thank you so much mate.
Thank you so much for this! Worked like a charm. Small tip for the "nipples": the left and right buttons can be detached from the case. If you look on the inside, there's a tab on the side of each button, that holds it in place. Press on it, and the button comes right off! This lets you assemble the stick first, and then click the buttons in, no hassle at all.
Good tip! 👍
I tried this, but just couldn't get the tabs to disengage. At a certain point, I was afraid of breaking the plastic.
Put that same tip here before reading yours.
Great tip! This alleviated the nipple of doom trouble, although you do need to still be careful as the nipples can fall into the stick assembly if they detach while re-inserting.
I was wondering why you couldn't just remove the buttons with a clip and place it in after closing the case. Thanks for the tip, saved me a lot of headache.
Two notes,
You don't need to take the whole top section with the circuit board off to get to this sensor, you can pull both halves of the stick apart after removing all the screws and then you only need to worry about the button on on side or the other. Just leave the circuit board and everything else in place on one side. It took less than 5 minutes to do it this way and requires way less re assembly.
And for holding the button in place to reassemble, just use blue tac to hold the button in the up position. A lot less fiddly than using tape.
I did this too. I also held it almost upside down when I put the side on without the circuit board in it. This way I didn't need to use any tape/the Frakenstein's monster method either.
I just bought one of these setups for Microsoft Flight Sim 2020. Can't wait to fix it, when the time comes😂. Thanks for the video.
Lol, at least you'll know how eh? 🤣
Thanks for the guide, it was helpful to see where the screw locations were, but as others have said there is no need to remove any screw, other than maybe the small trigger screw. You can just loosen the screws to open the case sufficiently to access the rudder axis potentiometer.
I bought my T.16600m joystick at least 8 years ago and have probably not played more than about 5 hours of MS flight Sim with it in that time. The joystick was stored otherwise. So I was rather annoyed when I obtained a copy of StarWars Squadrons only to find the rudder control knackered.
I found I only needed a size 0 philips micro screwdriver for the trigger screw, and a Wera size 1 philips was fine and easy for the others. I gently tapped the trigger pin out with a pin type micro-screwdriver and used a small pair of pliers to pull it the rest of the way. With the screws loosened I could open the case a few milimeters and see the potentiometer. I gave it a squirt of WD40 special contact cleaner using the straw. Then a few twists and left it a minute or so, then a bigger squirt and tightened it back together. Now it seems to work fine, only took a relaxed 5 or 10 mins to do. No mucking about with nipples of doom.
Thanks for the great video on how to repair the yaw on the T16000M stick. Some additional suggestions and things I learned:
1) I used a 1/8 inch punch to push out the trigger pin. It was super easy.
2) I removed the 3 buttons with nipples completely, super glued the nipples in place on the buttons, and then attached the buttons after assembly. This is much easier. The side buttons, 3 and 4, have hooks that go over notches on the outer side of the hole and then a clip on the inside snaps them into place. The center button, 2, has clips on the top and bottom so just but the button in and then snap in the top.
3) Gently pull some extra wire from the base of the joystick. I kept the joystick hooked up when I disassembled and found the jitter stopped when it was taken apart. I think the wires were tight and pulling the potentiometer. I cleaned with alcohol anyway, though.
4) Be very careful of wire placement when you reassemble. I had to resolder a wire when I carelessly placed it over a screw hole.
1:00 I had this issue. I played with a ridiculously large deadzone for a few days to solve the problem. I opened it and cleaned it, put some silicon grease... No luck.
The solution was to unplug, plug-in the joystick and calibrate it via windows "setup USB game controler" at 12:38: this part did solve the problem in mere seconds.
Before you open it, try calibrating the sensors.
ditto, went through the same process. All it took was unplug and replug for me as well.
Windows isn't letting me calibrate it. I can open the "Properties" app, but it doesn't give me the option to calibrate.
@mydogbullwinkle same here its not giving me the option to calibrate
Just fixed my left rudder using this video, all i did was remove a strand of hotglue from inside that tube the sensor sits in and now it works again. Saved me frustration while i save for new sticks
beautiful! couple drops of alcohol and mine worked perfectly after, thank you.
Tip for others struggling with nipples : Just use gravity to keep em down. Tilt the handle towards you so its horizontal, nipples and buttons will stay down, then gently slide the circuit behind it. No need to tape em or take the buttons out.
For Trigger pin : Slide the pin in the orange trigger before you attempt to put it on the handle, its much easier this way. Put it all the way in just before it starts to come out of the inside hole, this way when you finally mount it on the switch , the pin will be secure in place, use something flat to push the pin all the way in.
Nice work and good tips 👍
@@ArveyJay Thank you very much. Now the T16000M works perfectly.Alberto P.
@@albertopadovan2111 awesome!
She worked a treat mate.
To hold the two thumb switches i cut off a piece of a coffee stir stick which wedges nicely in gap to hold these buttons up. Hope it works for rest of you.
Beauty!
Imagine following every step of this video. Now imagine finding a 4th nipple of doom. I looked all over. I actually got it under the internal trigger mechanism.. and the screw next to it. It was obvious that it didn't belong in either place. It was then I decided to accept that whoever assembled the thing dropped one and didn't bother to get it.
Thanks for the video. You saved me money and for that you have my like and sub. GL to you.
This method cleared the phantom inputs right up and its working well right now though I dunno for how long more. THANK YOU Arvey. A previous method I've seen on Reddit had a very comprehensive (and scary) total teardown of the potentiometer which I wasn't prepared to do.
I don't know how you guys have yours for 2 years before it starts wonking out. I had mine for less than 8 months and it went nuts. Warranty via Amazon is hard to track down too so I just gave up and did this. It worked.
Probably gonna solder in a couple of new, more reliable branded potentiometers for both my sticks before I sell it off to a friend and upgrade. These sticks are decent really, except for the potentiometer axis which is a shame. A decent product felled by a component that really costs less than 1USD.
Thanks mate, I'm glad it helped! Yeah it does seem a shame that this cheapo component lets the stick down and that Thrustmaster seem uninterested in reparations. I guess this is where the community bands together and we fix it ourselves. I'm glad to be a part of that with you all. Take care mate.
The sensor had actually popped out of mine, and didn't want to stay in. Can't glue it as it needs to rotate. Finangled it back though it didn't want to stay in and now it works. Saved me $100, but more like $200 as I have the old grey/green sticks and a nonmatching pair would annoy the s our of me. Many thanks!
Best Christmas gift I got was finding this video
Well, Merry Christmas to you then! 😁👍
This was a big help for me. I bought a pair of these used, and the right one was having issues with the twist input. It was registering fine, but wasn't fully returning to center when twisted to the right, and sometimes made a click, like it was physically blocked. Followed your tear down, and found that the housing for the center spring was open on mine, with the top part up near the twist sensor. Put the spring back and closed up the housing, and now the twist works fine (although I almost lost 2 of the nipples of doom. they tried to run).
You can tell the previous owner took them apart at one point, because the right one is missing one of the two short screws that go in the main handle.
Lol re the nipples of doom, but glad you got the fix to work!
My planes were out of control, going on right and never on left on ground or in flight. Excellent tuto even if my english is not perfect, easy ti understand. After cleaning how it is explained, it's working well again. Tanks a lot !
Saved me after I got conned into buying 2 used sticks... both had this issue. In fact, one wasn't working at all at first. Your advice had me up and running within minutes. (Mainly because I'm comfortable with tearing things like this apart, haha)
Nice work mate!
It sucks i just bought 2 sticks and the left one turns left without me turning it
Disclaimer: I absolutely disavow any methods presented here, and purely by coincidence did the same steps in the same order all on my own after watching, and managed to fix my T.16000. Thank you for the wonderful clear presentation as I threw caution to the wind. Definitely subbed :-).
🤣🤣🤣 gold! Glad it worked for you!
My word. That is toy quality. The CH HOTAS uses all discrete, self-contained switches, not this game pad level of cheapness.
Once a potentiometer gets 'noisy' in its response after many hours of use, it's usually the case that the wiper has worn a groove into the carbon film layer (which provides variable resistance). If so, the thing has not so long to live, and issues tend to pop up more quickly after each such cleaning.
Again highlighting the difference, the CH gear is made so that all potentioneters (big, high quality, long-life, metal things) are easily replaceable. CH used to sell them, but stopped this policy at some point. Grrr. But they can be found (or could be as of a few short years back) at Digi-Key. I obtained 25, which should keep me going for decades.
You sell yourself short on your handyman abilities. Very well done video! 😊
Cheers from Canada.
A simple household vacuum fixed it: Had this for 3 yrs. Then the twist went right after the warranty expired. I watched your vid and couldn't believe that it was a simple dust problem. So, I put my household Dirtdevil vacuum hose over the top and sucked out the dirt and now it works perfectly just like new again. No need to unscrew or pull it up. Many thanks for letting me know this.
Thank you a lot! It helped me with my own T16000M. Mine was always going crazy on that Z axis, now it work again. That's some high level dark magic over there.
You're welcome. Glad it helped!
Help reaches from where ever you reside to Turkey, thanks a lot for your time to record this video. It was a great help.
Awesome. Glad it helped you!
I just did this with your help. I figured "what the hell, if this doesn't work I'll try new one". With that in mind, I used a tiny drop of instant glue on the 'nipples of doom' and bingo. First shot I fixed my jumpy pot AND reassembled on the first try. BONUS, the buttons all work. :) SUB EARNED.
Awesome to hear mate, glad it worked for you!
Thanks. This worked a treat! I found that buttons can be kept in place by pushing them upwards so the little tab holds them in during reassembly. The trigger rod did need way more force than I expected to push it out. It's a tight fit.
Absolute legend just tried now after the exact problem you described appeared after the stick had been working fine then sitting in it's box for a year it decided to just stop working!
Seems okay now so we'll see if it lasts!
Many thanks.
Thank you, thank you. I was given a used Thrustmaster and immediately started having this issue. Safely landing a spaceship in Star Citizen was proving to be a lesson in frustration when the ship started rolling uncontrollably.
Glad it worked for you!
Wow... thank you for this video. I was able to fix the rudder, which ended up saving me €200. The thing is like new! THANKS!
I bought and received a used T16000M and sure enough it had this issue upon arrival. I want to comment and say thank you for this very detailed breakdown. Beginning to end it only took 45 minutes, but would have taken x3 longer without this instruction. Worked like a charm.
One comment. Isopropyl alcohol is usually the main ingredient in eyeglass or screen cleaner... for those in a pinch.
I'm glad it worked for you and thanks for the additional info! 😁👍
Just another comment confirming that your method worked like a charm as well! Just confirmed it worked. However, I did go the extra step (as a user on Reddit added) of removing the pot from the stalk - it comes right off - and peeling it apart, cleaning the insides out with a cotton-tip swab, and applying some very light dielectric grease before putting it back together, placing it back onto the stalk, and reassembling as you described.
I appreciate your time and diligence. Job well done!
Nice work mate 👍
This helped me out too, including the video in the description for getting that pin out! Thank you for this! I bought my 16000M as the throttle/stick combo in 2018 for $120, and now it looks like the cost is $180. This saved me a decent chunk of change!
Nice one! Glad to help
Actually, I did follow the video exactly but it did set me in the right direction. I'm not a tinkerer so rather than taking the joystick meticulously apart, I just poured the alcohol all around the thumb stick at the top and let in seep down into the handle of the main stick while rotating it back and forth. I waited awhile to let the alcohol dry and this seems to provide the same results in less time. 100% fixed the problem, at least for the last few days.
So, fun fact, I am definitely getting this and if it breaks, I’ll fix it just like my new friend right here, thanks for reassuring me
Nice. Enjoy
Knew i'd eventually run into an issue with the T16000M. Glad you have such an easy to follow tutorial on resolving this! TIL i have titanium fingertips
You're a badass, buddy! Thanks so much for going through the frustration of tinkering and fiddling to figure it out. I went with what a commenter said and only go so far as to stop at where you'd remove the trigger and you can pull the stick apart enough to access the Z-axis controller! A beautiful use of internet!
DUDE!! tried this as a last resort and I didn't expect it to work tbh.. BUT IT DID! thank you for your help!!
Nice one! Glad it worked for you!
Followed this guide and it only took 10 minutes..
I'll test it out soon. Even if it hasn't worked, thanks mate.
Great video. Ive had my T16000M for 10 years and im glad to say its still going strong. My only problem was the trigger button but by removing the trigger and cleaning it all out its worked perfect ever since. Ill keep you channel on file so I will know what to do if this problem or simular ones occur in the future. Thanks.
Thanks for this tutorial. First one took me an hour, 2nd was 20 minutes, but got both my sticks working again, so Elite's back in my rotation again!
Thank you, it worked perfectly. Instead of suffering with buttons 3 and 4 and their nipples of doom, I simply popped them out of their cases (the grip) and inserted them after the two sides of the grip were together. This way I could just hold the button with the nipple in my hand upside down and push the whole joystick into it, avoiding the pain of a misplaced nipple.
You say your a tinkerer, yet your vid was the best ive seen, it made a daunting task very straight forward. Kudos.
That's awesome mate, I'm glad I could help! 😁👍
I used this stick for Elite Dangerous for a couple months then put it in the original box in my closet for almost two years. This weekend when I took it out the twist had the phantom right inputs. Your instructions helped me dissemble and clean it up. Operational for the moment...
NICE! 😁👍
Thank you! This video worked for my T16000M. The rudder axis jitter had gotten steadily worse for months and this completely alleviated the problem. I see now that there is a linked video for removing the trigger rod. I, too, couldn't remove this rod so I paused the disassembly at this point and tried prying the two halves apart. I got them apart just far enough to move them both forward slightly, giving access to the twist sensor. I DID have the trigger screw removed, but not the rod. The middle button just below hat switch came dislodged slightly, but it wasn't too hard to hold it in place for reassembly, and the "nipple of doom" thankfully stayed in place. After applying some alcohol and twisting the sensor a bit, I put it back together and it works flawlessly.
Thank you. Last night the Z on my left stick went wonky and today it quit completely. Watch your vid (at x1.5) and was done within half an hour. I think it works better now.
My pleasure, glad it worked for you. I'll speak faster next time ;)
@@ArveyJay Now I got more problems. The other joystick must have gotten jealous and it too is wonky, but a different kind. The one is now pulling left and down. What a pain in the ass these sticks are. I have calibrated over and over again trying to get it so I can use it without slamming into shit to no avail. Any suggestions?
Thank you sir! That did the trick. "Easy" though...not so sure
I had to put it back together and disassemble like...3 times.
First the wires were in the way of the long screw (good thing I didn't push hard! - something to watch out for)
Then somehow the trigger was also activating one of the hat buttons. How? I have no idea
And then last but not least, the twist detector moved and it wasn't set right.
All the while, those cursed nipples kept falling. I for one was very glad my daughter wasn't around to hear the uninterrupted string of obscenities coming from me, specially when the whole thing fell apart and I spend half an hour looking for the damn nipple.
But....it works PERFECT now!
🤣🤣🤣 yeah that sounds like a nightmare but I'm glad you persevered with it and got there in the end! Well done!
I've done this once, quite a long time ago, now it needs it again. I have a dremel and I am half tempted to make a damn cleaning hole and cover it with a sticker.
LoL!! I did it and it worked! You gotta make sure not to hit the sensor, so I watched the above vid about 5 times to get the place correct. Thanks for the vid Jay!
My pleasure, glad you're up and running again!
done.. thank you so much for this ! The rudder was not working properly exactly like what you said after two years I bought. Now, the rudder works perfectly again. Thanks again from HONG KONG flight sim user... really appreciate that !!!
My pleasure! 😁👍
Great vid! In my case, I did not disassemble the stick itself. I only opened it half way through until I got to see the wires. A wire or two interferes with the potentiometer movement. Used small cuts of electric tape and isolated it on the left molded portion. All false registers were gone after.
Watched your video today, thank you. I have the dual stick version of the T16000, so I had to tear into both sticks as they were exhibiting the same odd twist behavior. All working well, so here's to day 1!
This is late, and not coming from a professional, but I just glued the 3 nipples of doom into place with a very small drop of instant glue (on the rubber part pointing up, not the metal contacts obviously). That made the reassembly process way easier. Maybe it will come back to bite me later, but for now I'm happy. Also, thanks for making the video, it was a huge help.
Never believed it would work. I used WD40 instead of alcohol and work great. Thanks for the great video.
Nice work!
I did like a lot of others and only halfway pulled open the stick and avoided all the issues with the nipples of doom. I was able to keep the top part of the stick completely together and luckily nothing inside moved. Thanks for this video. I wouldn't have had any idea what to do about this without it.
WORKED THANKS! Im super unskilled person whan it comes to this, but with this video it was actually easier than I thought. I was about to throw awaz this joystick and said, well I give it a try, what I have to lose. It works like a new one now. Shame on manufacturer really. Such a simple repair.
Agreed
Thank you! Needed your video to fix the rudder on both of my thrustmaster T16000 and the similiar thrustmaster airbus sidestick (which is much easier to dis- and assemble, than the T16000).
I actually opened the casing of the sensor and clean it deeply. Both work now like a charm!
This was incredibly helpful. My joystick was locked into continuous z-axis input. I did not remove the pin as it was stuck in place. I was able to wiggle the potentiometer and loosen/move the wires away from the potentiometer slightly. I skipped the cleaning of the potentiometer. It worked like a charm and my joystick works once again! Thank you so much!
Yeah, I think moving the wires is key. I doubt a dirty pot has anything to do with the issue, although cleaning it certainly doesn't hurt as long as you have it disassembling. Has the issue returned since you fixed it? My worry is that the wires will eventually just go right back to interfering with the pot.
@@terpdx yes the problem repeated a few weeks later after a fair bit of squadrons play. But the same fix took care of the problem again.
@@letsroll2001 I just bit the bullet and ordered a different joystick after getting consensus recommendations from around the web. Only problem is that it's coming from China, which means it probably won't arrive at my door for another 4-6 weeks. Fingers-crossed the T16000M fix lasts until the new FCS gets here.
This worked very well, thank you good sir!
Just a note, I didn't have any of that isopropyl alcohol, WD40 worked just fine there!
I was quite at a loss how to fix my malfunctional Z-axis. Exactly the same trouble hit my device. Your tutorial helped! Thank you very much.
Awesome so glad it helped!
Just finished doing this and it solved the rudder problem completely. I used a contact cleaner spray instead of alcohol!
Thank you for posting the tutorial!
Nice work mate! :)
would WD40 contact cleaner be okay to use?
@@vegnachaos9995 i think wd40 does not evaporate completely and it will remain inside it for a long time, that may mess the circuits a little, the ideal is to use something that evaporates
@@bruno.henrique okay thanks for the Reply. I'll get something else to fix mine other then WD40. my sticks have been driving me nuts with this issue
@@vegnachaos9995 I'm off to the stores tomorrow to but a tin of WD-40 contact cleaner. It says it evaporates quickly. That'll do the job !! I'm also going to give it a good squirt, a good q-tip clean and a blast with an air-can. belt and braces stuff.
First of all, thanks for the video. I found myself having to perform this repair on my T.16000 today and the guide was very helpful.
I also wanted to give some feedback regarding the Nipples of Doom. I initially tried using small pieces of Scotch Tape to prevent them from moving during reassembly. However, they would still either fall off or move around, and not line up with the post on the underside of the button. After 90 minutes of trying that, I gave up.
What I wound up doing next made the reassembly incredibly easy. I popped out the side buttons (there is a small cam next to the round post, push that in), put small drops of superglue on the button posts of the center and side buttons, and then glued the Nipples of Doom to the buttons.
I then reassembled everything. Only the center button needs to be re-installed before the two halves of the joystick are joined. The two side buttons can be pushed back in at the very end, the glue will hold the Nipples of Doom in place, and the cam will prevent the button from popping back out.
Also, I used DeoxIT D5 electrical contact cleaner / conditioner. It's a better choice than alcohol or the WD-40 I've seen used in another video.
Good feedback thank you!
Began having major drift issues w/ my left stick about two months ago and have been more or less just dealing with it until eventually twist input stopped registering altogether. Turns out that the wires meant to connect to the potentiometer weren't even soldered - they used hot glue, which of course ended up with one of the wires detaching... At any rate, this helped me fix it just in time for an upcoming Star Citizen dogfighting tourney. Thank you!
Nice work!
Thank you, that was very helpful and instructive and gave my T16000M a little more life. It's a shame a joystick with such good and durable sensors has such a weak spot and a single point of (common) failure.
Agreed!
Because it's the one potentiometer in a hall effect stick, not to mention it's mapped to the one axis they wish you'd buy pedals for
@@npc6817 So they know very well what they are doing by installing those flimsy potentiometers.
@@zakzwijn8410 hell yeah they do. My personal recommendation when it fails replace it with a vkb gladiator. Not as cheap but combined with the t16000m throttle it can map 1/1 any modern fighter hotas and is better quality than the t16000. Also it's not a 300$stick
@@npc6817 My issue is that I really like the T16000M, they are the perfect size for my small hands. I ended up ordering new pot meters and soldered a new one on the stick; now it works like new again.
I also ordered new pot meters for the throttle unit in case that one breaks too (and it will).
Hello Harvey, I am your last but probably not least happy customer ! Thank you so much for your precise and clear video.
Just my personnal touch: I replaced your plastic Qtip and masking tape with a simple cardboard piece pressed into the slot.
And will put my new T16000 in storage as a long term spare item, ( I hope !!!).
Good tip with the cardboard and I'm glad the solution helped!
Worked like a charm. Might have to do it again every 5-6 months, but hey, it works. Thanks for the video man
Pleasure, glad it worked for you!
Worked perfect thanks. Mine was only slight. But was still doing my head in. Doused the pot in IPA and gave it a few turns and also pulled some of the wiring from out the main unit to give some slack. Zero twitching now thanks
Just wanted to say thanks for the incredibly well timed video. I had just started getting Rudder Judder about 3 or 4 days ago when this popped up in my feed. I also want to thank your viewers that pointed out the tabs on the buttons, those made this SO much easier! Thanks again, and o7, see you in the Black!
Thanks mate, so glad it worked for you and yes the commenters have been very helpful indeed! o7
I'm AMAZED how quickly and well this worked!!
Like others, I didn't need to undo everything -- I undid all the screws, including the trigger screw, but NOT the trigger pin, and then I split it open (required a little force). I used isopropyl as suggested, but I then also used compressed air to give it a final dust off as it wasn't as accessible as taking the entire thing off. It took me about 20 minutes because I was being super careful, but knowing what I'm doing, I could do the entire thing in about 5 minutes flat. Thank you so much!
Whilst I'm here... I'm only a few weeks into my Elite journey, I haven't really met anyone yet.... Where does everyone hang?
Thanks a lot, this video saved 2x T16000M ! Great camera and explanations. Just a little hiccup though, let me warn readers so that it won't happen to you as it did for me : at 10:40 when you reassemble both sides, be VERY careful with the wires, they must be curving towards you, toward the back of the joystick if you want. In the video, Arvey has been lucky, but in my case, the wires were showing through the hole where the really long screw should go and I had to re-open it and kinda force the wires to stay out of the way. When your joystick is back together, if you look through the hole where Arvey is putting back the screw at 11:05, you should see.. nothing, it should be empty to give room for the screw.
Good tip! Thanks mate 👍
That was a great how-to video. Super-informative and every bit as difficult as you'd said it'd be on all the right places. One additional thing I did was: glue the tip of the nipples to the buttons using some weak glue, just to help keep them in position. Many, many thanks!
Thanks my friend took me 90 mins but works fine now. As for the boob buttons i squashed a cotton bud and inserted into the top of buttons, and i put a tint tiny bit of treacle on the bottom of button were it is fixed never moved at all. Thank you again for saving me money.
My pleasure! Glad it worked and thanks for the tip.
Awesome Video, fixed my rudder z axis over steer, and saved me from buying a new T16000M over a simple fix, the N.O.D. were a bit frustrating as was the trigger pin removal, but it was all very manageable.
Thanks for the great video, very useful, spot on with directions from start to finish.
Thanks mate, glad it worked for you!
Hi Arvey, mine too started acting up like this 2 years in. Made Elite unplayable and DCS a pain. I was looking to get a new stick, but they are all sold or extortionate in price. Came across your video, had a go and it worked. One change I made was using contact cleaner spray in place of IPA. I have it as I am a tinkerer, I had this apart to see if I could fix the pot. But I took apart the base and thought the twist was to do with the hall effect in the base. Never thought to check under the handle. Good man yourself, hope you are well and thanks again!
My pleasure and I'm so glad it worked for you!
Weighing in, that this worked like magic for me as well. Thanks very much for the step-by-step instructions!
Thanks for showing the process! I had the chance to change the stick in warranty, but it also happened to my other stick.
Thanks, this worked for me. The 'nips of doom' technique that worked for me w/o too much trouble was to invert the entire joystick such that the circuit board was level but button-side-down so that gravity would hold the nips in place while I worked the handle halves back onto the circuit board. What gave me a smidge of trouble is that I couldn't quite get the halves 100% back together initially, I suspect one of the wires was caught between the screwhole pillar halves. Other comments here mentioned that the buttons 3-4 can actually be popped out and can be re-installed with nips after stick is reassembled but I didn't try this approach.
Thanks for this, could fix the rudder with the help of this video. The pin and one of the nipples gave me grief, but eventually I got everything back together and all the buttons still work plus the rudder is back.
It only bloomin' worked perfectly!!! :-) ...and no parts pinged off into the furthest, darkest, corners of the room - Thank you Arvey!
Awesomeness! 👍
Huge thanks! Initially impressions are that this fixed it! Very easy to follow video, thank you!
Nice one! Glad it worked for you.
This exactly just happened to me, everything else on the stick is working perfectly. Thank you for the video!
[UPDATE] I just finished trying this, it worked perfectly omg! My twist rudder was randomly fluctuating up to 100% on its own constantly... then now it is rock steady like new. amazing! NOTE: those nipples of doom are no joke, I ended up putting a dab of Locktite 60sec flexible glue to stick the nipple onto the bottom of the thumb button, since it kept falling out on me. Works great so far. used gorilla tape on the side buttons to hold them in the up position. The pieces went together well after that. reassemble as in the video.
[UPDATE 2] lol, I had to do it again-- 10 months later, and again the stick works good as new now. Love this video, had to watch it a few more times... and I am sure 10 months from now I will be back to watch it again:) thank you so much!
Thank you. This cleanup worked beautifully. Those bottom two screws gave me a headache. I stripped one and barely managed to open the stick.
You are the best
I thought I might need to buy a new one, but your easy fix save the day.
My pleasure 😁👍
If this doesn't last (fingers crossed that it does), I disassembled as described, then that short set of wires in front of the sensor, I pulled up about .25" for just a bit more slack. Then, if you look inside the handle halves, you see some contact points that guide/hold that sensor in place. IMO that's a little tight. I took some *extremely* light sand paper and took a few swipes at it. Not much, just take the slightest amount of surface off of it to free up the sensor from sticking against those points. Reassemble. So far so good for me. With any luck you don't have to do any of this a second time.
I enjoyed this video, and I don't even have a joystick. You have great production skills mate.
Thanks a lot 😁👍
This was a great tutorial, I only shouted "nipples of doom" like 50 times before my wife came to hold things in place. In my case, the issue was the cables that attach the sensor had a bit of silicon that was snagging onto the main cables, on a turn that got stuck on the controller cables was pulling the sensor to the left. Shout out to the commenter that found how to remove the buttons, that really helped deal with those nips. Another tip, before you finish one side, make sure the button is in since that makes the joystick sort of hold in place when attaching the other side!
Haha, nice work on the fix and thanks for giving me a giggle imagining you shouting. 🤣👍
welp i lied, i had to do this again. It does get easier to try to fix it on the second pass now that i know the pitfalls. It isn't super glitchy on the rudder and certain angles make it start glitching. I did try to position the cables around so the main controller cables are under the cables for the rudder sensor.
@@AnEmortalKid bummer. Hopefully the second time is a charm!
Thank you SO SO much! Your fix worked perfectly! I couldn't believe a simple clean job would fix it, but before it was jumping all over the place and after the cleaning it's as steady as Clint Eastwood's aim. Also - the button holding trick with the tape - chef's kiss, saved me hours!! Thank you, thank you thank you!
This worked like a charm for me! Problem solved, off to explore more in Elite: Dangerous! Many thanks for this man!
Awesome. Glad it's worked!
thank you so much. all those documents that describe this are so overly complicated. awesome vid!
Pleasure. Glad you found it useful 😁👍
Great stuff! Thank you so much, this fixed the issue immediately . BTW, it's not necessary to completely disassemble the handle, it can be easily prised apart enough, after removing the screws, to allow access to the centre so that the IPA can be applied.
You sir are the man. saved my A55 a lot of money. I cant believe just a tiny bity of Isopropyl worked! that's wild. TY!
My pleasure mate, glad you got it fixed! 😁👍
Worked perfectly! Thank you for the video! Like the others in the comments I got to the part where you take out the trigger pin and it just wouldn't come out. I was able to kind of pry the plastic shell apart enough to fit a cotton swab in there and give it a good cleaning.
Just wanted to say thanks, your guide was really easy to follow, and I was able to get my twist rudder working perfectly again on the T16000M - thanks!
Awesome! Thanks for your comment and I'm glad it worked for you 😁👍
Awesome! This video helped me out a lot! I had the same issue and figured I would give it a quick google search and came across your video. I figured it couldn't hurt to try, since it was unplayable the way it was. It fixed the drift! It was a lot easier than I thought it was going to be. The only thing I did different is, instead of removing the circuit board from the one side of the joystick, I held it in place then cleaned the sensor and slipped it all back together. The nipples of doom were no issue for me like I thought they were going to be. I was able to hold it upside down and slide the half back in place. Thanks so much for this video, saved me from buying a new one now.
Well done and thank you. This fix has saved me £60 for a new one. I am definitely a 'tinkerer' and am happy to take something apart to see what makes it work. Luckily I had no trouble with taking out the screws or removing the trigger pin. I didn't take the circuit board out of the side of the handle which reduced the nipple of doom problem but I used your cotton bud/sticky tape idea to great effect, cheers for that. The only thing I would recommend is testing it BEFORE puting the the screws back in.
Nice one. glad it worked for you and a good tip for everyone as well.
THANK YOU! This is a 100% successful fix in my experience! I've had my HOTAS for 9 months before replacing it and my new one's potentiator messed up just 3 weeks later. I've been reluctant to disassemble the thing thinking I'd mess something up but the walkthrough was absolutely great and simple and straightforward. I kept my T16000M controller properties open the entire time to monitor the Z-rotation and it became dead still once I finished :]
Highly recommended video! Thank you again!
Awesomeness! So glad it worked for you! 😁👍
@@ArveyJay I'm ecstatic! o7 CMDR
Thank youvery much for your tutorial. It has helped me a lot.
With my joystick, the pin in the trigger was very difficult to get out. I had to use a small hammer.
I also removed the two buttons (left and right) before re-assembly and used super glue to fix the nipples on the buttons.
Nice work. Glad it fixed the problem for you 😁👍
NIPPLE of DOOM made easy! When you have the joystick disassembled (if you look insight the handle half) you can see a little square on the button (in video 6:17 you see Arvey actually even touching it), push it with a screwdriver, and wiggle it out you don't need a lot of pressure (don't break it!) once out apply a little quick clew and clew the damn nipple to the button. Assemble the whole stick and push the button back in from the outside.
Thanks, Arvey great video you sound like a true technician, see you in the dark 07
Thanks mate, good tip!
I appreciate your tutorial, it was most useful when I was doing my service. I just thought I would mention after suffering with the silicon nipples I found the actual solution (and how it must be assembled in the factory) If you look inside the grip where button goes there is a plastic tab that is part of the button protruding, use a small slot screwdriver to push it up and it will click into place, the button is now even further up and away than when in its unpressed position, slide the handles together the button will look obviously to high, give it a click and then moves back into the normal position, the circuit board will never have pushed the nipple off the button because of the extra clearance and you are good to go. The pot in my controller is bad so I will be doing this again, I will take some pictures or a video to send to you to update or and an appended video if you like.
Thanks that would be great! Well done on finding the fix.
@@ArveyJay Emailed the trick to the button