Love this mod! It's basically mandatory and really increases the value of this solid throttle by a huge margin. The detent is especially great for playing in VR like Elite: Dangerous.
Just finished installing this mod and it feels great. Can't wait to try it out. Wonderful craftsmanship and attention to detail. Installation video is very thorough. Well done!
Thanks for your work, I received your update today and I'm happy with how TWCS works. In case anyone else is interested, the shipment was to Spain without any problem.
I bought your model on Etsy and printed it myself, and I just finished installing it. I wanted to thank you for your work, this has completely changed the way the throttle feels!
The two black items (metal spacers you referred to) on the wiring are ferrite chokes which cancel outside electrical interference from entering the wires
Hi So the mk3 must be a very new version because I couldn't find this video 2 days ago and followed your old video and installed the hokey stick without magnets, so I can always reinstall magnets, but have now received confirmation that everything was done correctly :). Your mod works really well and is of good quality. right now I'm using dual joystick in Star citizen, but with the new 50% decent magnet option I'll try to use my throttle again because I think it feels more right than dual stick
Hey! Yeah... took me a while to make the video, appreciably late after the release of the Mk3 slider on Etsy. I'm glad to hear you were still able to install correctly! Yeah, I agree. something special about the feel of a throttle, I prefer it! Enjoy!!
Love this mod and this video is super helpful, however, I would personally advise AGAINST attempting to remove the swing arm. I tried to do it the same way as the video and immediately broke a pin. I was able to solder it back no problem but I did the rest of the install with the arm in and had no issues. Can't wait to fly with my improved throttle!
OOF!! Thank you for the heads up and I applaud your soldering skills! I've never seen or heard of that happening until now! Anyone reading this, take heed. If you want to take the arm off, use a pinching motion to remove the arm, pushing down on the actual pivot/potentiometer with your fingernails! (sometimes leaving the arm on can be just as risky if holding the base steady while removing the slider and rails is a struggle.
Just installed this, it’s superb. Can’t recommend it enough, should be included with the original (or at least the bearings). My only “problem” is that I fly all sorts periodically and I’d love different detent setups that I could easily change without getting the screwdriver out... but it’s a tiny tiny niggle compared to what this offers and testament to how good the detent solution is. Thanks for this.
I just watched this and read your comment, I think the only way to realistically change detents without having to open the whole thing up would be a new bottom plate. At that point, a bottom plate with removable plate inserts with magnet holes could be the answer
Just finished installing it. Works okay but I've noticed it's still pretty noisy sliding up and down even though the hockey stick is flat. And the repel magnet at the top isn't repelling hard enough to stop it from hitting 100%. If I give it a lil nudge it goes back down.
Thanks for the feedback, I'll admit, the WEP magnet is only felt with minimal friction. I may redesign that feature using a different approach in the near future. As for the noise: does it sound like magnets clicking around in their slots as they get pulled or pushed by the bigger magnet in the slider as it moves past them? Or is it plastic on plastic dragging? If it's the latter, I'd recommend remounting the hockey stick, pressing hard into the hot glue for mounting it. If it's the former, there is a certain amount of space I design into the magnet slots to retain them but allow multiple installs/removals without going past the elastic range of deformation of the material, that way it keeps it's firmness of retention while also allowing a little play. Let me know which it is or if it's something else entirely!
@CoreHawk3D The repel magnet seems to be working now, had to reapply it a few more times as the magnets kept tearing the stick off after only an hour. As for the noise I'm certain the stick is as flat as can be, but is still generating some degree of noise. Though to be fair I think that may have also been the case before I switched out the parts. My thrustmaster is preowned so that might also be a factor. Going up and down almost sounds like I'm sawing through wood. It's still usable though and I hardly notice during gaming.
Has there been any potentiometer dysfunction for the throttle? I’ve had two failures with the joystick, one either the ™ HOTAS 4, and one with the TM16000m both for PS. Of course the Z axis gets more dynamic use that the throttle but I was wondering if you have any plans for a Hall effect conversion for the throttle assembly?
Hey CoreHawk! I love this mod it looks like a great project that solves an annoying issue! 1 Question though- would you recommend the metal or the polymer bearings? (Pros and cons of each). A response would be really helpful if you can! Thank you 👍
Hello! sorry for the response delay. Day job has me slammed. I personally enjoy the polymer ones more. The smoothness and modulation of friction you can have through the downward pressure on the handle as well as the underside adjustment plays very well. Only con worth mentioning is that they are lighter than the metal ones. The added weight for the metal bearings feels nice. For the metal bearings, it works very well too but they roll so well that no downward force will ever increase friction it's own (think of when you might be in close proximity to something and white-knuckling the controller). You are limited to the friction adjustment underneath which still works well but don't have that extra modulation / silky smooth feel from the polys. You can feel the rolling of the bearing balls too, so it's not quite as glassy smooth... still a night and day difference from stock though!
Just received and installed mine. Very straightforward install and works so much better than stock. Only thing I don't have is that friction adjustment underneath the throttle. Is that something that came in later models of the TWCS? Also, the 50% detent magnet seems to make a bit of noise when it is engaged. Is that normal? All in all, very happy to no longer have the throttle sticking when making fine adjustments.
Thanks for the feedback and questions! As far as I know, the friction adjust has been there since 2018 when I bought my first TWCS. Still the same on a model bought a year ago. Weird to think I began designing this thing over 5 years ago already! The noise, I wouldn't give it too much thought. As long as the hockey stick itself isn't rubbing the slider and it's just the magnet rattling a little in it's slot on the hockey stick, you should be good. Nothing a little grease, rubber cement, or hot glue couldn't fix. cheers!
not a bad thought! Are they said to work with anodized aluminum? That's what the rails are made of. Otherwise, the rails are 8mm diameter and the bearings I use are LM8UU: L=24, OD=15, ID=8. Dimensions in mm.
Hi Corehawk! I are you supposed to audibly hear those magnets clicking as you slide the throttle or could that mean it is rubbing? It feels better than the stock, but I feel like I did something wrong. It also is not bouncing back very well when you push the throttle to the front. Any ideas on how to improve it?
Hello! So the first part: can you FEEL the clicking in the handle of the throttle as it moves past the clicky points? If not, then no need to worry. The hockey stick is toleranced to retain the magnets mainly laterally while allowing enough room for repeated install/uninstalls. A fine line to walk! As far as the rebound for the WEP magnet, it does lose it's effectiveness at higher friction settings. The magnets are small and the space is somewhat limited in there so it won't push back super hard.
I ordered this kit for my TWCS throttle and it will hopefully be here tomorrow. What would be your recommended magnet setup for the DCS F/A-18C Legacy Hornet? I'm thinking you'd want an afterburner detent at the front and a throttle cutoff at the rear? How could you set that up effectively with what is provided in the kit? Really looking forward to it!
Hello. Do you think it's possible to use Nyogel 767 tube on the metal bearings? These bearings are not made to use thick lubricant I assume but I like the resistance of the grease. Will this be a bad idea? Same question for the polymer one as well.
Greetings. It is possible but I'd recommend only a thin film for the bushings. Avoid use with the metal linear bearings, it slows the rolling motion of the individual balls and it creates a very pronounced gritty/grinding feel - not good.
Are the metal or poly bearings better? Also, the hockey stick could set me up to like full mil in DCS? Trying to understand the product better. Looks like a great product.
I got the set with both types. Both were absolutely super smooth, with zero sticking. Either one is a huge improvement to the original, and I didn't find that much difference between them. In the end I went with the bearings because I felt that I got a wider range of resistance in conjunction with the unit's screw-adjustable setting using the leaf springs. So I can adjust it based on what I was playing/flying. At the low end, the bearings can be almost friction-less, but then every time you barely bump your desk/table or even yank your joystick it can be enough for the throttle to shift. The way I have it set up now is I can just push it forward using a 4-inch wire twist-tie without it bending. I didn't use the magnets because I didn't want anything but a nice smooth slide from min to max.
No, and it's because I didn't design it to work that way. I want to keep the magnets opposite the PC board to mitigate and kind of EM interference. Are you trying to make a detent have a stronger feel to it?
@@CoreHawk3D Yes. I play star citizen. And The 50% is critical. I have some other feedback about the slider I would like to keep private. May I email you?
Great question! A few things to check: is the screw for the main swing arm dragging on the underside of the throttle case? Did you wipe the rails clean of lubricant? (if using bushings which are self-lubricating, you should, just a faint thin film is ok to have on there). Is your friction adjuster over tightened? Did you rotate the bushings and rails to find that frictionless sweet spot? These steps should cover all of the ways I'd expect to cause anything less than stellar performance.
@@CoreHawk3D I've tried everything you suggested, not much of a difference. But when I took the metal shafts out I noticed that on each side one of the bushings were much more sticky than the other. Is this normal
@@cigee9499 Hmmm, one other method I forgot to mention: run each bushing individually on each of your rails (fully removed) to identify if it's one, some, or all of the bushings / rails that are creating the issue. Regardless of what you find, rub the problem bushing(s) along a rail applying strong force perpendicular to the rail (normal force) and also a rotating moment on it (twist perpendicular to the rail) so that any binding or interfering tolerances or surfaces in the bushing get quickly worn down until it's sliding freely. After this it should be smoov like butta.
Hey Stefan. Just got mine today. One question: Do I wipe off the lube thats applied by the factory? I havent gone into the device yet but I assume it would be lubed.
Hello! thanks for asking. I'd recommend wiping all but a thin film of the old lube off, it'll lower dirt and dust accumulation. Plus for either, the metal bearings come pre-lubed and the bushings self lubricate so you're double-covered either way!
Would love to try this mod, but shipping to the US costing more than the item itself turned me away. Hope someday you find a local distribution partner.
Good question, it's up to you for what you'd prefer. In my experience, detents are used to let you know when you're going over a key or important throttle position (afterburner, reverse thrust, fuel cutoff). Using every detent will not tell your hand much I don't think and it may prevent you from setting the throttle at any position as the magnets pull it toward them. Also, the closeness of the magnets to each other will lower/blend the pull/push effect, almost smearing the tactile feedback together. I'd recommend a WEP position and a fuel cutoff position, depending on the plane although I don't remember there being any planes that would shut off at 0%. Also, what a legendary game. Have you found a reliable way to activate the water=4 setting?? I can't get mine to let me use the "perfect" setting for scenery :/
I effed this up drastically sigh. Had to throw my brand new throttle in the bin. The plastic grey cylinders refused to stay in the orange bracket. They kept popping out all the time. I have modded G29 simracing pedals plenty of times,replaced wiring looms,pots but this mod I completely could not get my brain around. Lucky I have two 16000m Joysticks so not the end of the World but this mod was too hard for me sigh. Even wasted money on a glue gun for this mod. Now have anxiety through the roof.
I'm so sorry to hear this! I've had my share of projects that go sideways while everything is taken apart so I sympathize deeply! I think you just messaged me on Etsy and I've replied there. if that's not you, let me know, but I've got all the remedy you/we will need to get you up and running! Just a little longer and you'll be up and running.
@@CoreHawk3D I was going to buy again but sold out. My anxiety got the better of me when I threw my brand new throttle in the bin after failing to install.
no worries and I'm not suggesting that you should buy it again. It's not unheard of for these PLA prints to warp if left in the sun. I suspect the slider itself was warped and not holding the bushings as designed. We run strict quality tests before we send them out so barring any errors there, I suspect heat (and at no fault of your own). I specifically switched from black bubble mailers in the past for this reason specifically. Now I send in insulated boxes inside white bubble mailers.
@@Jellybeantiger All good and even if it was, I wouldn't expect sun exposure to cause it d/t the aforementioned changes to shipping materials. Any number of other heat sources could have influenced this thing long before it got to you. We'll get you up and running, just need to talk the how/when.
Love this mod! It's basically mandatory and really increases the value of this solid throttle by a huge margin.
The detent is especially great for playing in VR like Elite: Dangerous.
thank you very much for the feedback!
Just finished installing this mod and it feels great. Can't wait to try it out. Wonderful craftsmanship and attention to detail. Installation video is very thorough. Well done!
thank you so much!
Thanks for your work, I received your update today and I'm happy with how TWCS works.
In case anyone else is interested, the shipment was to Spain without any problem.
I bought your model on Etsy and printed it myself, and I just finished installing it. I wanted to thank you for your work, this has completely changed the way the throttle feels!
Thank you so much for the feedback!!
I just received mine, installation was a breeze thanks to this video. Great work, awesome upgrade, thank you for everything ! Regards from France 🤘🏻
The two black items (metal spacers you referred to) on the wiring are ferrite chokes which cancel outside electrical interference from entering the wires
How did you know that?
Just installed it, feels fantastic! Thank you so much!
thanks for the feedback! Another happy pilot! yay!!
Still rocking my Mk. 1 and loving it! To answer your question: the metal cylinders the cable runs through are referred to as "ferrite beads"
Hi
So the mk3 must be a very new version because I couldn't find this video 2 days ago and followed your old video and installed the hokey stick without magnets, so I can always reinstall magnets,
but have now received confirmation that everything was done correctly :).
Your mod works really well and is of good quality.
right now I'm using dual joystick in Star citizen, but with the new 50% decent magnet option I'll try to use my throttle again because I think it feels more right than dual stick
Hey! Yeah... took me a while to make the video, appreciably late after the release of the Mk3 slider on Etsy. I'm glad to hear you were still able to install correctly! Yeah, I agree. something special about the feel of a throttle, I prefer it! Enjoy!!
Love this mod and this video is super helpful, however, I would personally advise AGAINST attempting to remove the swing arm. I tried to do it the same way as the video and immediately broke a pin. I was able to solder it back no problem but I did the rest of the install with the arm in and had no issues. Can't wait to fly with my improved throttle!
OOF!! Thank you for the heads up and I applaud your soldering skills!
I've never seen or heard of that happening until now! Anyone reading this, take heed. If you want to take the arm off, use a pinching motion to remove the arm, pushing down on the actual pivot/potentiometer with your fingernails! (sometimes leaving the arm on can be just as risky if holding the base steady while removing the slider and rails is a struggle.
just modified my throttle today, it works like a dream. thanks a lot, all I can say😁🤟☝
Just installed this, it’s superb. Can’t recommend it enough, should be included with the original (or at least the bearings). My only “problem” is that I fly all sorts periodically and I’d love different detent setups that I could easily change without getting the screwdriver out... but it’s a tiny tiny niggle compared to what this offers and testament to how good the detent solution is. Thanks for this.
I just watched this and read your comment, I think the only way to realistically change detents without having to open the whole thing up would be a new bottom plate. At that point, a bottom plate with removable plate inserts with magnet holes could be the answer
Just finished installing it. Works okay but I've noticed it's still pretty noisy sliding up and down even though the hockey stick is flat. And the repel magnet at the top isn't repelling hard enough to stop it from hitting 100%. If I give it a lil nudge it goes back down.
Thanks for the feedback, I'll admit, the WEP magnet is only felt with minimal friction. I may redesign that feature using a different approach in the near future. As for the noise: does it sound like magnets clicking around in their slots as they get pulled or pushed by the bigger magnet in the slider as it moves past them? Or is it plastic on plastic dragging? If it's the latter, I'd recommend remounting the hockey stick, pressing hard into the hot glue for mounting it. If it's the former, there is a certain amount of space I design into the magnet slots to retain them but allow multiple installs/removals without going past the elastic range of deformation of the material, that way it keeps it's firmness of retention while also allowing a little play. Let me know which it is or if it's something else entirely!
@CoreHawk3D The repel magnet seems to be working now, had to reapply it a few more times as the magnets kept tearing the stick off after only an hour. As for the noise I'm certain the stick is as flat as can be, but is still generating some degree of noise. Though to be fair I think that may have also been the case before I switched out the parts. My thrustmaster is preowned so that might also be a factor. Going up and down almost sounds like I'm sawing through wood. It's still usable though and I hardly notice during gaming.
@@CamperCarl is the swingarm mount screw rubbing the bottom panel of the throttle case?
Great product. If I don’t want the detenida, can I refrain from adding the hockey stick?
Thank you! Correct, no need to install the hockey stick. You can also remove the magnet in the slider as another option.
Has there been any potentiometer dysfunction for the throttle?
I’ve had two failures with the joystick, one either the ™ HOTAS 4, and one with the TM16000m both for PS.
Of course the Z axis gets more dynamic use that the throttle but I was wondering if you have any plans for a Hall effect conversion for the throttle assembly?
Hey CoreHawk! I love this mod it looks like a great project that solves an annoying issue!
1 Question though- would you recommend the metal or the polymer bearings? (Pros and cons of each). A response would be really helpful if you can! Thank you 👍
Hello! sorry for the response delay. Day job has me slammed. I personally enjoy the polymer ones more. The smoothness and modulation of friction you can have through the downward pressure on the handle as well as the underside adjustment plays very well. Only con worth mentioning is that they are lighter than the metal ones. The added weight for the metal bearings feels nice. For the metal bearings, it works very well too but they roll so well that no downward force will ever increase friction it's own (think of when you might be in close proximity to something and white-knuckling the controller). You are limited to the friction adjustment underneath which still works well but don't have that extra modulation / silky smooth feel from the polys. You can feel the rolling of the bearing balls too, so it's not quite as glassy smooth... still a night and day difference from stock though!
Just received and installed mine. Very straightforward install and works so much better than stock. Only thing I don't have is that friction adjustment underneath the throttle. Is that something that came in later models of the TWCS? Also, the 50% detent magnet seems to make a bit of noise when it is engaged. Is that normal? All in all, very happy to no longer have the throttle sticking when making fine adjustments.
Thanks for the feedback and questions! As far as I know, the friction adjust has been there since 2018 when I bought my first TWCS. Still the same on a model bought a year ago. Weird to think I began designing this thing over 5 years ago already! The noise, I wouldn't give it too much thought. As long as the hockey stick itself isn't rubbing the slider and it's just the magnet rattling a little in it's slot on the hockey stick, you should be good. Nothing a little grease, rubber cement, or hot glue couldn't fix. cheers!
I was thinking of experimenting with some graphite bushings. Can you tell me the dimensions of the bushings you used on the Mk3?
not a bad thought! Are they said to work with anodized aluminum? That's what the rails are made of. Otherwise, the rails are 8mm diameter and the bearings I use are LM8UU: L=24, OD=15, ID=8. Dimensions in mm.
Just ordered this mod - thank you! To be clear, if we don’t want to use detents we just leave the hockey stick uninstalled correct? Thanks!
correct!
Hi Corehawk! I are you supposed to audibly hear those magnets clicking as you slide the throttle or could that mean it is rubbing? It feels better than the stock, but I feel like I did something wrong. It also is not bouncing back very well when you push the throttle to the front. Any ideas on how to improve it?
Hello! So the first part: can you FEEL the clicking in the handle of the throttle as it moves past the clicky points? If not, then no need to worry. The hockey stick is toleranced to retain the magnets mainly laterally while allowing enough room for repeated install/uninstalls. A fine line to walk! As far as the rebound for the WEP magnet, it does lose it's effectiveness at higher friction settings. The magnets are small and the space is somewhat limited in there so it won't push back super hard.
I ordered this kit for my TWCS throttle and it will hopefully be here tomorrow. What would be your recommended magnet setup for the DCS F/A-18C Legacy Hornet? I'm thinking you'd want an afterburner detent at the front and a throttle cutoff at the rear? How could you set that up effectively with what is provided in the kit? Really looking forward to it!
I am trying to figure out same thing
great video
Hello. Do you think it's possible to use Nyogel 767 tube on the metal bearings? These bearings are not made to use thick lubricant I assume but I like the resistance of the grease. Will this be a bad idea? Same question for the polymer one as well.
Greetings. It is possible but I'd recommend only a thin film for the bushings. Avoid use with the metal linear bearings, it slows the rolling motion of the individual balls and it creates a very pronounced gritty/grinding feel - not good.
@@CoreHawk3D Thanks man appreciate the answer. Might buy as well buy one whenever I get my bearings straight
@@JPazer Sure thing, what do you mean by getting your bearings straight?
@@CoreHawk3D It's a saying. And in this case also a sh*tty pun (now you laugh). sorry :)
@@JPazer Oh haha very relevant pun! I've never seen the Bering Strait myself.
Are the metal or poly bearings better? Also, the hockey stick could set me up to like full mil in DCS? Trying to understand the product better. Looks like a great product.
I got the set with both types. Both were absolutely super smooth, with zero sticking. Either one is a huge improvement to the original, and I didn't find that much difference between them.
In the end I went with the bearings because I felt that I got a wider range of resistance in conjunction with the unit's screw-adjustable setting using the leaf springs. So I can adjust it based on what I was playing/flying. At the low end, the bearings can be almost friction-less, but then every time you barely bump your desk/table or even yank your joystick it can be enough for the throttle to shift.
The way I have it set up now is I can just push it forward using a 4-inch wire twist-tie without it bending.
I didn't use the magnets because I didn't want anything but a nice smooth slide from min to max.
Is it possible to order a hockey stick for the other side? I am supposed to recieve the mk3 today but wanted a hockey stick on both sides.
No, and it's because I didn't design it to work that way. I want to keep the magnets opposite the PC board to mitigate and kind of EM interference. Are you trying to make a detent have a stronger feel to it?
@@CoreHawk3D Yes. I play star citizen. And The 50% is critical. I have some other feedback about the slider I would like to keep private. May I email you?
@@adrianbishop995 by all means! Corehawk3d@gmail.com.
I'm really into flying in battlefield 2042. It's no DCS or realistic flight sim. I am thinking about a hotas. Should i?
I installed correctly but it didn't get rid if the stiction if not made it worse. Did I do something wrong?
Great question! A few things to check: is the screw for the main swing arm dragging on the underside of the throttle case? Did you wipe the rails clean of lubricant? (if using bushings which are self-lubricating, you should, just a faint thin film is ok to have on there). Is your friction adjuster over tightened? Did you rotate the bushings and rails to find that frictionless sweet spot? These steps should cover all of the ways I'd expect to cause anything less than stellar performance.
@@CoreHawk3D I've tried everything you suggested, not much of a difference. But when I took the metal shafts out I noticed that on each side one of the bushings were much more sticky than the other. Is this normal
@@cigee9499 Hmmm, one other method I forgot to mention: run each bushing individually on each of your rails (fully removed) to identify if it's one, some, or all of the bushings / rails that are creating the issue. Regardless of what you find, rub the problem bushing(s) along a rail applying strong force perpendicular to the rail (normal force) and also a rotating moment on it (twist perpendicular to the rail) so that any binding or interfering tolerances or surfaces in the bushing get quickly worn down until it's sliding freely. After this it should be smoov like butta.
Hey Stefan. Just got mine today.
One question: Do I wipe off the lube thats applied by the factory? I havent gone into the device yet but I assume it would be lubed.
Hello! thanks for asking. I'd recommend wiping all but a thin film of the old lube off, it'll lower dirt and dust accumulation. Plus for either, the metal bearings come pre-lubed and the bushings self lubricate so you're double-covered either way!
Would love to try this mod, but shipping to the US costing more than the item itself turned me away. Hope someday you find a local distribution partner.
fair and understandable! thanks for the comment. I'm still getting my US based counterpart up and running, should be soon.
All magnets in for il2 1946?
Good question, it's up to you for what you'd prefer. In my experience, detents are used to let you know when you're going over a key or important throttle position (afterburner, reverse thrust, fuel cutoff). Using every detent will not tell your hand much I don't think and it may prevent you from setting the throttle at any position as the magnets pull it toward them. Also, the closeness of the magnets to each other will lower/blend the pull/push effect, almost smearing the tactile feedback together. I'd recommend a WEP position and a fuel cutoff position, depending on the plane although I don't remember there being any planes that would shut off at 0%. Also, what a legendary game. Have you found a reliable way to activate the water=4 setting?? I can't get mine to let me use the "perfect" setting for scenery :/
@@CoreHawk3D I thought it was in the ini file?
Hello,dear friend.I like your 3D printing modules very much, are you a manufacturer?
I effed this up drastically sigh.
Had to throw my brand new throttle in the bin.
The plastic grey cylinders refused to stay in the orange bracket.
They kept popping out all the time.
I have modded G29 simracing pedals plenty of times,replaced wiring looms,pots but this mod I completely could not get my brain around.
Lucky I have two 16000m Joysticks so not the end of the World but this mod was too hard for me sigh.
Even wasted money on a glue gun for this mod.
Now have anxiety through the roof.
I'm so sorry to hear this! I've had my share of projects that go sideways while everything is taken apart so I sympathize deeply! I think you just messaged me on Etsy and I've replied there. if that's not you, let me know, but I've got all the remedy you/we will need to get you up and running! Just a little longer and you'll be up and running.
@@CoreHawk3D My throttle is in pieces in the bin,it will be gone in the morning.
@@Jellybeantiger ah, RIP throttle. I'm very sorry to hear this. Let's keep talking about ways to get you back up and running.
@@CoreHawk3D I was going to buy again but sold out.
My anxiety got the better of me when I threw my brand new throttle in the bin after failing to install.
@@Jellybeantiger Thank you! Please reach out/let me know as soon as you've got questions or issues!
Not buying again.
Broke my brand new throttle trying this mod.
Now in bin.
The grey cylinders keep moving out of the orange brackets.
😢
no worries and I'm not suggesting that you should buy it again. It's not unheard of for these PLA prints to warp if left in the sun. I suspect the slider itself was warped and not holding the bushings as designed. We run strict quality tests before we send them out so barring any errors there, I suspect heat (and at no fault of your own). I specifically switched from black bubble mailers in the past for this reason specifically. Now I send in insulated boxes inside white bubble mailers.
@@CoreHawk3D No it was in it's box for a long time as I was too scared to attempt the mod.
@@Jellybeantiger All good and even if it was, I wouldn't expect sun exposure to cause it d/t the aforementioned changes to shipping materials. Any number of other heat sources could have influenced this thing long before it got to you. We'll get you up and running, just need to talk the how/when.