3018 CNC - Z axis tool probe (zeroing Z axis) - WoodPecker 3.2a GRBL
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- Опубліковано 11 чер 2019
- #3018CNC
#Fusion360
#DIYCNCMill
#Tutorials
I was getting sick of eyeballing the tip of the milling tool to the surface of the wood stock at every job. I wanted to share with you in this video the trick I found to probe the tool accurately every time. The solution is very simple: just 2 wires connected to 2 alligator clips and hooked to the pin A5 of the controller board.
Command to for tool probe:
G38.2 Z-12 F24 (move the tool down 12mm at the speed of 24mm per minute and stop when short circuit is detected)
G92 Z 1.6 (1.6mm is the thickness of the metal plate used)
To test if the tool was correctly zeroed:
G1 Z0 F24 (move to Z-0 at the rate of 24mm per minute)
This procedure will help you to set the Z axis at 0 correctly every time. It certainly will be useful if you do an engraving job that requires multiple tool changes. - Наука та технологія
great video man!! Learned some new tricks, great work!
Thanks Minh! Great video and instructions, rockin' my z-probe finally!
Great to hear!
Thanks! Great instructions!
Fantastic! Thank you!
Thank you Minh!
Very good idea. Thanks
you are the F master, is great tank you very much
Very helpful information
Well done, very much professional done, I did use your instructions and built this problem, and the prob works awesome, I'm still learning to get by first cutting done, I love your Cave , and appreciate all you helpful instructions. 🥰🙏
Very nice video, and great detail. Just Subscribed..to your channel. Cheers.
Very helpful, thank you.
I made this today but the pins are too slim for the plugs, i must look at other plugs but i thought these were standard, i use them when i crimp cables for Arduino.
Thank you
Hi and thanks for the video. Where did you find the information to connect the probe to the A5 connector? I was looking for the pinout descriptions on line, but could not find anything. Do you have a resource for it?
You can read through this thread and find the info: github.com/grbl/grbl/issues/464
Thank you I was crazy to find a solution! Do you use Artcam? If yes, are you using the Candle Software? What extension are you using? I'm using the "STREAMLINE MM.nc"
Hi there, I'm glad it is helpful to you. I use fusion 360 because it's free. I use Strooom as post processor and Candle as gcode sender
I've been using a cigarette paper like the old toolmakers used to do - looks a bit quicker to me. I'll try this and see! Thank you for the info.
Everyone has their own way of doing things. I'm afraid that I will tear the paper each time.
Muito bom 👍
Those are some really nice looking cuts in that ply, are you using a 2 flute straight router? If you don't mind me asking, what depth and feed speeds are you using for the 3018?
Yes, 2 flute straight flat end mill.I cut very slow with my 3018 CNC. Feed rate only 750mm/minute, 1mm step down and spindle speed set at 9000RPM
@@minhsmancave9448 Thank you so much, just got a 3018 to learn CAM, so those setting are very helpful, Cant wait to see more of your videos, subbed!
@@PigeonPrint Hi!
Is your router motor on your cnc a 775 type?
@@christianrobertadzic9321 Hi, Yes, have the stock 775 type on it at the moment, but about to upgrade to a Machifit ER11 Chuck CNC 500W Spindle Motor www.banggood.com/custlink/KvDveT44wZ
Good
hi, I m using CNC3018 mini with grbl 1.1f, I am using FR4 PCB board as probe.after height map some of the tracks are still missing.what to do?. the steps are: after setting probe I am pressing XY zero and Z zero button then I create map, after saving map file I check the box to use same height map file for engraving.but still some tracks are not engraving.I have set 1.46mm thickness in probe command.please suggest me the solution.
Realized a few things while testing this. I have forgotten the alligator clip more than once on the spindle 🤦♂️ before I started the program. I use foil pressed down between the teeth of a wrench (on the clamp) and changed my height probe command for the candle software to G21G91G38.2Z-15F50; G0Z1; G38.2Z-2F10; G92X0Y0Z0; G90G0Z4; So you can see it double probes and zeros out all coordinates. I like to end the bit raised also. The probe must be closer than 15 mm or alarm will trigger. I feel a bit safer will the tool going into the wood than a piece of metal, but I may buy one of those height probe pucks because I guess the plastic would give way if you don't have a proper connection to form a closed circuit
Yes bro, I forgot to clip the bit sometime and have to be quick to stop the machine, usually unplug the cord. Programming the button defintely the way to go
Great video my friend. I bought a Z axis thing from Amazon..... Need to see how to set that up
All touch probes should work the same way, same connection. Only the offset is different. If you had difficulty setting it up, just sent me the link to the product, I'll try to help.
Awesome video, if you don’t mind what is the connector that goes on the board?
I believe it is called dupont connector
Minh's man cave thanks!!!
👍🏻👌🏼👍🏻
Thanks for the video. Do you have the link to the guide, my board uses a nano and does not have the pins like yours
It's still the pin A5 on the arduino nano. Maybe just use the multimeter to see where's the connector that connected to the pin A5 on the arduino
@@minhsmancave9448 ok thank you, disregard I found it
Thanks for the video!! Can you help me? My board looks different than yours... but I found two pins in the corner with a label J-A5.... is that the A5 pin I need to use?
If you can find an image of your board and send me the link then I can confirm
@@minhsmancave9448 Thanks, here's a pic: ibb.co/BBWXhqm
Yes, that's the one, j-a5
Hello sir. At first i want to thank you for all of your efforts. I learned a lot from you. I ave assembled limit switches and z probe with your videos. I want to ask is there a possibility to homing with offline controller, and z probing?I couldn't run even a .nc file $H included. Double you have any ideas.
Homing in g-code is not $H, try G28
@@minhsmancave9448 i actually tried :/ didn't work for me
@@minhsmancave9448 i don't know why but, I was reading your answer with your voice inside my head... it seems i wacth too many times your videos... 🤣
You will have to a few Gcode lines written the way fusion 360 generate your g28 lines. I don't remember exactly but you can try make a gcode with fusion 360 then copy those lines in a homing .nc file
@@minhsmancave9448 thank you sir, I will try this asap...
I'm installing the limit switches and the tool height detection.
Having these codes and adding them into each cutting code file, along with the codes for pause until user input will automate the process significantly.
Now to find the pause code... GOOGLE! Marlin pause:
M226: Gcode Initiated Pause
What? M00 doesn't work with Grbl? M00 is a standard stop state that waits for operator input.
I have Mach3 CNC system . if I change to use your Candle software, Do I have to change all the circuit boards ?
Why would you want to do that? Mach3 is way more advanced and easier to use compare to GRBL/Candle
What software are u using when i see your Macbook?
Windows on MacBook
Great video! What software do u use?
I used Candle. If you wanted to know more details, take a look at this video: ua-cam.com/video/fd07-OfCsAk/v-deo.html . I showed how to program all the probe commands into a button so you won't need to memorized any of them.
@@minhsmancave9448 i saw u were using a mac how do you do that so far i couldnt figure out how to use a mac
I installed windows on my Mac
Oh
Could you guide me please...I am trying to make my own CNC mill for aluminum working. Is the 2020 Tslot enough for this job? Also is it better to move the job rather than the z axis gantry? I see that your setup is quite light weight, I am thinking if this is enough for aluminum milling
I would go with bigger aluminum extrusion bars. I have a few videos about building cnc for aluminum cutting, you can check them out. If you do lots of work with aluminum, better go with more sturdy frame and larger spindle
@@minhsmancave9448 thanks for the helpful tips. My work is aluminum and brass only. Jobs are not more than 200 mm (say max 300 mm), i am inclined towards the fixed gantry with moving work table style of arrangement, as it saves me a lot of trouble, do you think a moving gantry is better design?
Moving table has less vibration when dealing with aluminum, just harder to arrange cables, motors
I need some help if you have time. I brought a model similar to yours. But the threaded rod was to small plus two of the rods and the gantry aluminium extrusions extrusions rails where short by 45 mm each. Plus missing 4 T nuts for table. Not to mention the bearing blocks made from poor quality 3D printed plastic. Any help would be highly appreciated. Stay safe have a wonderful day.
I don't think the rods are short, check your base frame installation. The base frame should have aluminium extrusion bars of 360mm length parallel to each other, then 2 bars à bit shorter (330mm length I think) on the sides. So the base frame should be 400mmx330mm. If you install them this way, I think the 2 rods are just the right length. The bearing blocks are plastic on mine too, so, that's normal. If you are missing some t nuts, you can just order a few from Amazon, it's always safe to have some extras.
@@minhsmancave9448 Thanks mate Stay safe. I did see an Aluminium kit from Banggood may get that one. Enjoy your show. Stay safe have a great day.
please do a tutorial from start to finish on pcb milling if you dont mind ;)
I'll try my best. That's something i wanted to tackle too
Hi there, this one is for you: ua-cam.com/video/zQDvYySdMGU/v-deo.html
how do you run that cnc program on mac
You will have to compile the software source code: github.com/Denvi/Candle
using your Mac. Or install windows on your Mac and run it in windows
Minh, I cannot write to the console window. What am I doing wrong?
That's something I've never experienced before. Maybe just try to restart candle or your computer.
Minh's man cave: I figured it out
Hello, i am interested in such a 3018 too, but i would need a higher z-axis - like around 100-120mm high instead of 45mm. Do you know if there is a tutorial how to do it or can you explain if and how to do it? Thanks in advance!
I don't know any tutorial about that. You will have to built the Z axis your self. The easiest way is to keep the rail and lead screw of the x axis, replace the linear bearing with SC10UU type and install the Z axis on it . You can make all the part needed with your original 3018 cnc. It probably will cost you about $40. I haven't thought about this myself because I already built a bigger machine with 200mm range z axis
@@minhsmancave9448 thanks a lot for your answer. Yes i am unexperienced :-) I only have a 3d printer but my space isnt so big for a bigger cnc. i only want to work in the range of 30x20 but the hight should be higher for my ideas if possible. Do you know where i can find a diy tutorial to build it? I read that some say they would improve the nemas to nema 23. Do you think too its a good idea? Any help really would be great. Even if you know from aliexpres or so an kit to build it by my self would be welcome. Thanks a lot again for your answer.
I don't think it's necessary to upgrade to nema 23, those motor are real big and heavy, just get the bigger nema 17. That should be fine and you won't need to change the design of the machine. But bigger motors will require external power source and motor driver. If you have a 3d printer, that should also work to build your own Z axis. If you have some 3D CAD experience, this won't be a problem. One thing I definitely recommend upgrading will be the spindle. 500w spindle would improve greatly the performance of the machine.
@@minhsmancave9448 thanks man!!! Yes i have a 3d printer, and yes i have made a lot of technical cad things with rhino3d, but i have no experience with CNC Mills, so i was unsure if the change of the hight of the Z-Axis is adjustable in the software or if i get in trouble after i made a change on the hardware, because i dont have ANY experience with it :-) But i think i see that you want to say i can change what ever i want as long i update the software too. And for the motors (i worked also with nema23, that i need separate drivers because the different Ampere and Volt they they need.) Would you buy a final cnc or do you think i should start from ground and build one? I dont have a lot of money to invest, but i have and product i dea for what i would need a cnc, and so i want to find out as cheap as possible if it works or not :-)
No, you don't need to change anything in the software or configuration in the firmware. The milling volume of this machine is not pre-configured. For the price, this machine is pretty low, if you build one, it'll take time and not sure will be cheaper, but surely will be better
30k cnc it cost 1k.for hobby it cost 2 wire and its same thing