First Person Hide Tanning, Scudding and Deliming the Sheep
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- Опубліковано 16 вер 2024
- Deliming and cleaning the skins in preparation for tanning, and a mysterious problem with some weird white areas that won't dehair.
Full playlist for this series: • Tanning Sheep Skins Se...
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thinking about filling the cracks in your beam, easiest method is probably to use some 5 minute epoxy and sand it. Another good method is sawdust and glue. I fill up big cracks in oak all the time with very fine sawdust and super glue followed by sanding. waterproof.
That beam is toast. As my friend used to say, it's like polishing a turd. the edge is actually breaking off.
This was very interesting and informative. I laughed when you addressed the comment about tannin. "First of all, don't tell me what to do." You obviously know what you are doing. There used to be a large tanning company near where I live. It was in Biddeford, Maine. I had relatives that worked there. My great-uncle gave me a bunch of leather.
It's incredible how some of those with secondhand or introductory knowledge can sometimes be extra sure of themselves. He was spot on with context. I did it once, I made an insisting remark about metallurgy, which I do know a lot about, but missed the context of the goal being Wootz steel, not crucible steel.
Your videos are fascinating dude, can't wait to learn even more from your work.
Another super rad video from the Bushlife & Homesteading Guru!
Hi! Thank you for this video, I have just recently started getting into tanning hides. I’ve only tanned three hides thus far and you have given me some great ideas to improve my end product. Thank you again, keep the videos coming!
Glad I can help :)
very good to have this series on hand as I am once again trying to make leather from sheep skin - this time a an old sheep, which I think should have thicker skin than lambs. This time I will make an apron from the leather, it should have the right shape, hope it won't be too thin though
Interesting note on lime drying, becoming limestone. I once had a deer hide soaking in lime to buck. I wetscraped the hair and grain and then realized how weak I was when finished. I had the flu. I never rinsed the swolen hide to neutralize, rather I just hung it to dry; Bad idea.
Long story short, I had to rehydrate and neutralize with water and vinegar and only after MANY wringings and soaking in the vinegar solution did it neutralize and stretch enough to Brain. Even then, it took several applications of wringing and soaking in the emulsified oil solution. Finally, It turned out fine but I will never make that mistake again. It felt like it had turned to limestone and was rough like you described.
Yeah, that's a really bad Idea. You invented a new building method, saturate hides in lime and use them to coat your hut lol. I'm glad to hear you were able to partially reverse it though. I think mine is actually probably alum, but we'll see.
Try using a piece of burlap a towel or even carpet on your wood beam to protect your hide from the beams imperfections.
something finer textured and firmer might work, but it would be damaged when I scrape off the edges. Wood is repairable.
I must not quiet understand what you were getting at when you were talking about the imperfections and the hide. Using a piece of burlap or carpet is used by trappers. I like it especially when fleshing possum. Their skin is so thin. Carry On!
Bonds makes a good permanent wood filler to fill the cracks and rough spots on the beam. We used it on the decks of a wood hull shrimp boat to hold over rotten spots until the summer haul out when we replaced wood and painted the boat.
Apply it with a Bondo applicator then sand down smooth. You will get more life out of that beam. But then...how long does it take to make a new beam?
Also if you sand across the PVC beam with 80 grit sandpaper. It should make a non-skid surface to keep the hides from sliding around.
As per usual- really enjoyed watching. Thanks!
Just watched a second time- I missed the 200 sheared sheep wool. Such a shame they couldn’t sell it or use it somehow. I know it will do good things as it returns to the earth- but still a bummer.
Wouldn't it be easier to fix the scraping log than getting a new one?
Eg. mixing your hide glue(or pva) with saw dust filling the holes, and afterwards cleaning / scraping it with a draw knife.
Steve, thanks for sharing your experience. Clearly you know of what you speak. I hunt for food. Always hated to toss the hides, wanting to tan them, but not knowing enough. Came across your videos, built a quickie fleshing g knife and now have a hide at the scudding stage. A couple a squirrels too, which I plan to test with Osage Oarange wood for a tannin source (I saw your brief mention of that in your tanning materials blog post. Thanks dude. -Tim Wilder
That's great to hear. I hope they turn out well. Most people end up using too little tannin and it's hard to know how much to you need of a given material. Hopefully this series will help through the rest of the process.
For Osage orange, I think I remember your blog mentioned wood rather than bark. That right?
The strop series was very helpful
@@timwil5350 I think so.
This is so interesting. I would love to try this someday when I have the space to.
Tanning is fun and really rewarding when it works.
Dam would love to have wool for insulation seems like it would be great stuff especially free!..is throwing the hides in a running creek good for getting the alkalinity out or should you still scud it and re rinse it?
Probably depends on how much the creek is moving. I'm always in favor of at least some scudding. But hides were often rinsed in running streams.
I have weird crusty stuff on back of natural sheep skin hide
Hello!
Love your work, but I have some questions as I was thinking of tanning some of our cattle´s hides: how long would you recommend them to sit in the solution if it´s made up by spruce bark? also how do you need to "trim" down the neck and butt for the solution to get all the way through? I´m a noobie at this but thought I might give it a try instead of throwing them away.
with best regards, Jonas :)
it's not going to be that much different than other materials. the thing you have to figure out is strength and keeping the solutions strong enough. DON'T START WITH A COW lol. if anything just tan one square foot or something to get some experience. You can salt the hide to hold it til you are ready.
@@SkillCult Thank you!! Yeah the thought of tanning the whole hide in one piece seems quite troublesome after reading your blog. Is there any diffrence with bull hides? Just butchered one and placed it inside one of the freezers. Thought of cutting it in 3 pieces and then in to smaller bits. A company located a couple of miles away tan there cow hides for 12 months and I feel that seems a bit to long, or is that a resonable period? I´m really sorry if I ask a lot but I´m trying too convince my dad that this could be something productive to do with the hides instead of dumping them in the forest.
BTW, hope you have it a little bit warmer in the states than us in the northern part of Sweden.
*Will you be offering Pheasant King for sale this year? Would love an update. Thanks!*
No, still trying to make more stock plants for propagation at least another year, maybe two or three
@@SkillCult *Thanks for the reply. I will be here when you do. Have a great rest of your week.*
It would be nifty to have found a way to incorperate abrasives into hides destined to be used in strops!
Sounds doable. there is probably patent on that from the 1800s lol.
I didn't spend enough time to trace back into prior art, but US pat 1651911A 1927 does say Oak Tanned leather is preferred when the method of applying powdered shale abrasive to the flesh side is deployed.
hi mate can you please talk about pickling hides, ive tried it a few times now with my kangaroo skins but every time i try to neutralise the skin it gets acid swell i think and it triples it thickness and becomes like gelatine and makes ultra stiff leather. ive tried adding salt to the neutralising bath but it still happened again. cheers
I never do that, so I can't really help. closest I get is using vinegar or ferments to nutralize lime and that is usually not enough to swell much if at all.
Hey Devon, before adding the acid at the pickling stage make sure the salt concentration in the float/liquor is between 10% and 12%. Also if you go to raise the pH after pickling the salt concentration will still need to be around 10% before adding neutralising salts/bases. Just my $0.02 worth.
you should really treat yourself to a new beam- think you said it was time in 2018!
It's the wood. I thought i had a tree, but it turned out to be less than awesome. I might do some experimental ones though and just dive in. I actually really want to mill up this big maple I have access to and make a traditional laminated wide tanning beam with my favorite beam wood.
Let's choose some random comment... 🧐😤🤬
I have to share this with my kids. They are interested in tanning and we had some gross failures.
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