Sheep and Cattle Hide Tanning, Wins & Fails, Dehairing
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- Опубліковано 8 вер 2024
- Continuing my sheep and Cattle hide tanning projects. Slipping hair, on purpose and not, procrastination, tanning beam problems.
Full playlist for this series: • Tanning Sheep Skins Se...
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Both types of videos are good and I think that they complement each other. Great
Agree
Thanks man. I find a lot of value in both styles of your tanning videos. It's important for me to know what is theoretically ideal as well as what I'm likely to run into.
I found the Arrector Pili info intriguing so I just looked it up. If anyone cares- The base of it is connected to the hair root in the dermis, and the top of it is connected to sensory receptors in the epidermis. (I love learning more about anatomy and physiology 🤓)
cool. It must be still connected to the dermis at the top end, becuase light liming, enough to remove the hair, is not always enough to hammer it into submission. I think that one of the things bating and puering (soaking in dungs) and probably other bate type processes are for is to further destroy it and allow the grain to smooth down.
@@SkillCult it is on the top end
Always great to see a video up!
Another fantastic video! I actually discovered you through one of your tanning videos and it still remains one of my deepest interests. I love these types of videos where you go through and explain what's gonna happen and the different types of mistakes that are possible. Its good to hear advice like "don't worry about smell when you're bark tanning because it will all go away" because they are only gained through thousands of hours of experience and knowledge. Thanks for sharing the obsession!
I agree with this comment. I liked this video. I also like your extremely well organized and thought out videos as well, but they are typically fewer and far between, whereas this type of video feeds us information vulture/vampires much more often and satiates our ever-present hunger.
Yeah, so much easier to make run and gun vids. I have elaborate vids and series planned by the dozens, but getting them done is quite a job.
Fist time bark tanners; use five times more bark then you think necessary and swap out your solution twice as much as you think.
at least ha ha. I have seen people go the other way, but it's usually way too little and not getting just how fast it can be used up. This bark was strong, but can't expect much throwing in a fleshy hide and leaving it for 6 weeks :)
I love all your videos, but especially the hide tanning ones. Mainly because I want to start doing it.
Thanks for this video. I'm the same with lunching out my skins, I've got one that I should have cleaned today still on my scraping beam. I'll do it in the morning and then salt it. Great video.
Always look forward to your tanning videos thought out or not the knowledge is still passed through!
Well, in these I forget stuff, but it's real life, so each has it's strengths.
Making mistakes is the only thing that I am good at.
I agree I learn more from mistakes and very little by getting right first time and that include writing software - they must have learned a lot at Micro$oft
I started working with steel in a blacksmiths shop at the age of 10y and now prefer woodwork, also it is less noisy for the neigbours.
All the best to all for 2021
John
I'm enjoying this style of videos and you talking thoughts and ideas as the issues arise.
Your content has so much value, I've learnt a lot in such a short time from what you have shared.
Thankyou kind sir!
Thanks :)
Thanks for the mention. I definitely know some things about tanning due to tons of mistakes. Wish I could just stop by and help as I want to learn more about cow hides (only tanned a couple so far). Think those are Suffolk sheep? If people don't want to use alum they can still pickle with apple cider vinegar and salt to avoid hair slippage (ratio is typically: 1lb salt, 1 gallon vinegar, 1 gallon water). Love the video style, looking forward to more!
I don't know what sheep they are, probably something common, but definitely wool sheep. If I wanted, I could get lots of them, but not in very good condition, re: cut marks. I've found cattle pretty easy. Long liming and or bating can help mellow the grain. Otherwise I've had success in both layers and solutions. sometimes hard to fit in containers, but sectioning them up helps a lot obviously. Is that vinegar and salt just a preservative, or does the acid swelling set the hair?
Hi Dennis! I moved in at Katy's outside Philomath just after you left, we met once or twice. Cheers bro!
@@MrRobinbonine hi there! Say hi to Katy and Tyler! Grow siberian tomatoes in the big greenhouse like Katja!
@@SkillCult the acid and salt sets the hair. After fleshing/washing/drying: wet salting for a month also sets the hair. ACV is slight overkill but important in humid climates like mine. I try to get the wool as clean as possible just because of the bacteria in the shitlocks/bloody necks/fatty armpits. Sometimes I just cut all that off, rounding the hide. I'm tanning a buffalo in March (I hope) and I'll probably just wet salt really thick and not pickle. I should probably pre-smoke too, which may help sheep hides as well (if you had a cold smoker to do a bunch at once).
Scored sheep hides are so sad. Bad skinners are the worst.
I have a question about the strategy from going from carcass to preservation, like if you were to kill a deer and take it back to your place gut it and skin it how much of the animal could you preserve using as little technology as possible (meaning refrigerators and other appliances). Like if you were going to tan the hide would you just chuck the skin straight into tanning solution? and then what about the meat? would you just can everything? and then what about other stuff like collagen which you could use for glue and ligaments for cord. Can collagen and ligaments be dehydrated and then rehydrated at a different date?
Maybe I'll do a vid to answer those questions. Nearly everything can be preserved. Organ meats are a bit of an issue.
I would also like to add onto your comment Cecil, it would be fascinating and incredibly educational for this city boy to watch a step by step video series on processing an animal into all of its different components from hide, to meat, to eating, and even cooking.
@@SkillCult Cool, Yeah because when I read about what people used to use before the advent of plastics they used to use a lot of animal products instead and the only reason why plastics became such a big thing was because they're mass produced. Animal products are a lot more eco friendly and sustainable when properly harvested and you're on like a homestead or something of that nature. edit: also if you could talk about alternative uses for animal organs for instance back in the day and maybe still today certain instruments were made out of animal organs and things like footballs as well was that a type of tanning?
On organ meats, Try making "High Liver" Its fermented liver. I just cut up fresh liver, place it in a glass, put it in a cool place, shake and open the jar to air twice a day. It will go funky at first then it gets really tasty. I've been fermenting and eating bits of the same lambs liver for months. It's very healthy. You could smoke other organs.
Organ meats can also be added to air cured sausages.
I used to carry hides as a job when i was younger and i remember carrying a hide with another fella and it was atleast 250 kgs, the whole hide wasnt even able to fit on the scales when folded up,
the guys folding had to drop their elbows down on the hide just to try and fold it
Love the on the fly vids as well as well thought out ones.
Would be neat to see you talk about how to repair that beam - if you decide to do so
I think that beam is toast. I went out and cut a log for a new one, but haven't made it yet. If i did repair I'd just smoothi it out with a drawknife or spokeshave. But it has a lot of cracks and some grub holes.
Yay! Love this kind of video. It helped me get out there and work with my hide. Thank you!!!
Cool
These videos are great, I love the first person perspective ( even better in vr) could you put them into a playlist so they are in sequence?
Hilarious: I'm binging your tanning series (again) and your videos are getting ads for beauty products and more specifically for products for bleached hair hahahaha. The transcript talks about chemicals, tanning, and hair, so the commerce algorithms think you are a beauty channel X"D
Why not use a large pvc to make a beam? I see a lot of people use wood and I wanted to know if there was a reason for that. Or if it’s just a preference thing?
yes I like this videos very much I do leather when I can ..ex video
I am having trouble getting the main part of my lamb at the back more cream white vs a dirty cream. I am at my whits end. I want a nice looking rug but it just looks kinda dirty on the main part. What would you say to use or do?
I like this kind of unprocessed video a lot.
I'm surprised that you find the wool a good mulching material... probably something about your conditions is very different than my own. I've tried once or twice using it as mulch for young fruit trees: weeds grew through it, and the tangled wool made it a real mess to scythe them, took them out of the question as fodder, and never half rotten fast enough in compost.
Q: what would you reckon would be the difference in the finished hide between one that was properly squeeged on the hair side after liming and one that was only plucked by hand (and then thrown into used liquer or some other weak acid before membraning, which is my method)?
Thanks! Nimrod
I don't recall that being a problem, but it probably breaks down faster here. You should do the experiment and tell me lol. Much of the old literature is adamant that all lime is removed, even going so far as to use bating and drenching to make sure the last of it is out. I've done hides that were minimally delimed in the past, but not enough to have a good handle on it. I usually at least try to get the swelling out, and that requires so much scudding that they get thoroughly squeegied out. I like to work them until the liquid coming out is mostly clear. I do recall one account where they wanted the plumping effect of the lime and put the hides in without deliming. That was for shoe soles. In other methods, they'll delime, but seem to end up plumping the skins in the other direction with acids. If you tan buckskin without deliming, it is weird, very rubbery and thickened. I imagine there is a similar effect with lime plumping, but can't say without doing A/B comparison. It would be interesting to do minimal rinse and full deliming and scudding until fallen on the same hide, cut down the spine and otherwise treated the same.
@@SkillCult I always wish somebody else to do those experiments that have to do with cutting the hides, but if they ever do the results never seem to get all the way to me.
Both with buckskin and bark tanning soft leather, it seems to me like acidifying instead of thoroughly removing the lime physicly does a good enough job with much less toiling, but I keep worrying that my leather is badly compromised and I don't even know it, that's why I ask. I gather you do think it matters considerably, so I'll look for a chance to try it your way.
Thanks! Nimrod
After you dehair the pelt can you still us the wool, if you wash it??
Watch the first video in this series. It is about taking the wool off by using lime from the flesh side. ua-cam.com/play/PL60FnyEY-eJBsE5mbHhW2gQMILnndQN9o.html
I bark tanned some cow hide belts and they dried out and are stiff as hell. I used neatsfoot oil on them as soon as they were dry enough to absorb it. They've sat a couple months and are to stiff to use for anything. Any tips on softening them some? I tried soaking and bending it back and forth and pounding it with a hammer with the strap on a flat spare tire. Should softening be done while its still stretched on the frame? Like a moose hide.
They are probably just not well tanned. If the center is still rawhide, it will be very stiff and you will probably not get the effect you want. When you cut the leather, is it colored all the way through? Occasionally, it will color through with very long soaking in weak liquor, because there are coloring agents in the bark other than tannin. If the skin is tanned through, it should dry more or less like leather without oiling, because the shrinking, hard drying rawhide effect is disrupted. If it is not tanned through, you could wash in soap and water to try to remove some of the oil you put in and put it back into a new strong bark solution.
@@SkillCult It 's colored through but as you explained previously and again in this reply my solution may have colored them but not tanned them. I used walnut husks and a long soak. I watched your videos and feared what you said may be possible. Rather than beat my brains out softening (trying) them I'd touch base. Thanks for the reply. I,ve got access to hemlock bark when the weather breaks and half of the same steer hide to tan so I'll give it another go.
@@timothylongmore7325 I was wondering if you might have used walnut husks lol. It probably has more coloring agents that are not tannin than it does tannin. Try retanning just a small piece and see how that goes. Then you'll know with a minimal investment.
@@SkillCult Ok. I do have some hemlock handy. Cut a couple years ago that I can get too and some red oak in the yard that could stand some thinning. What would soak time be roughly? For a partially tanned hide/strap.
@@timothylongmore7325 It could take months to tan a cattle hide, depending on a lot of factors. If you scrape, stretch, stir etc a lot, it will tan much faster. Just make sure the tea is strong. put chopped bark in a pot and just cover it with water, then simmer or cook at 120 f for 4 hours or so, drain, cover again and cook a few hours more. If it is partly tanned, you can probably put it straight into the strong stuff and that will likely finish it.