NOTE: This lathe uses a toothed "Gilmer" drive belt. From comments received it appears the seller does not stock a replacement belt. It is however stocked by Adelaide Belt and Hose (show them the old one) according to feedback from at least two owners. That being the case, I expect it is a common/standard configuration and should be available from similar companies (CBC etc). Earlier Imperial measurement belts have been known to be used on some Chinese lathes and can be extremely difficult to source, so always check before buying. Cheers Rob
The quick change qearbox makes up for some of those losses. It does add a fair amount to the price, so cutting back on some of the features, while maintaining the price, makes sense. You can’t get something for nothing, and the gearbox can add $200 American, to the price, even when subtracting the price of the change gears. Hobbyists are very price conscious. Being able to do feed changes easily, and screw cutting, without having to constantly change gears, a tedious and messy practice, will be worth it to many people. I don’t know like the tailstock on that lathe in the store that you first showed at the store. The cantilevered spindle isn’t the most rigid or stable.
Thanks for the reply Rod. The search continues, while i have never owned a lathe i have used one from time to time. Quick change gearbox is a preferred option, thankyou for bringing that up as i thought geared head ment the same thing. The Optimun Tu250 looks like it might get the go ahead, downside i have heard peaple have haf bad experiences with Hare @ forbes. Thanks again
Hi, I have a HBM450 - a European version of the CQ9325. After some modification and tweaking I'm pretty happy with it. Good machine for the price. These are still available from the supplier in Netherlands from which I bought it. Regards Nikolay
I see that Bolton Machinery in CA USA also still sell them. Maybe the factory price went up, so Paramount Machinery switched to a more basic unit as a result. It's a pity as it's really in a class of it's own, and was great value. Rob.
I went to Paramounts over the last 5 weeks but they don't have any lathes in stock at all .... bugger , so 4 weeks ago I ended up getting one from the Birkenhead Ebay shop , delivered the very next day by Ute for free, I got a Workman CQ6125 10X22 lathe $1675.... could not wait for Paramounts any longer. This one has reverse , quick change gearbox , 4 jaw + 3 Jaw chuck , 26 mm Spindle bore , MT 3 tailstock , travellig steady + fixed steady .... So I guess it's basically what you wanted on a lathe... or me I mean, plus it came with the stand as well. Now I gotta learn how to use it... This lathe is actually a Grizzly 602 machine in fact I downloaded the grizzly 602 manual because it is more complete than what came with my lathe and it is definitely the same lathe. cheers Robert Here
outbackdigital Sounds like a good deal. The CQ6125 comes in many variations, depending on how it's specified by the seller. Many sites/outlets sell this series lathe. Some only have a Morse 2 tailstock. Some have camlock tailstock, some don't. Never seen too many negatives on them. I would buy one if my CQ9325 ever pegged out - which is unlikely. I've had a good close look at them and for the money they are unbeatable (of the current offerings). I hope you have a good run out of it. Cheers. Rob.
xynudu Hi Robert. As far as I know the 602 doesn't have a reverse tumbler for the leadscrew - which the Paramount unit does have (in the headstock). You can reverse the motor on all modern lathes, but leadscrew direction change is another thing all together. There are mods available to fit/fabricate reverse tumblers for most lathes. Cheers. Rob
xynudu Thanks for your reply Rob , I know that I am only picking up the Jargon in the last few weeks so forgive me any errors in my assessment of the lathe functions.... when you say reverse tumbler on the lead screw.... does that mean that my power feed can power feed forwards and backwards ... Because if I throw the reverse lever I can Knurl towards the head stock , then go from forward to reverse. then leave the half nut engaged and auto feed the Knurl back in the oposite direction towards the tail stock, that's how I have been knurling.
outbackdigital Hi Rob. To clarify things without seeing your lathe, does the lathe have a feature in the gears to reverse the rotation of the leadscrew WITHOUT reversing the motor direction? This is what a reverse tumbler (in the change gears, or running off of the spindle) does. For knurling, you can simply reverse motor direction as you are not using a cutter. Cheers. Rob.
+xynudu On this lathe in question, even if it doesnt have actual reverse tumbler, couldnt you manually swap the gears to drive it in reverse for the ocassional left hand thread?
Gday mate, great video. Nice look at what is available down under. I don't think you can get that good a deal here. The first thing I noticed when you got in the truck is that someone has put your steering wheel on the wrong side. I have some software that could turn the video around so it is on the right side if you want to try it. Next time your at the equipment place maybe you could give us a walk around so we can see the whole place. Awaiting your next video.
That's not good news I could not find any reviews on the AL-250G. When I seen it had the auto cross feed + the quick change I thought I was onto a winner + the freight was only $113 The freight is a killer for me from Paramounts Browns as I am in Bega NSW $357.00. Looks like I need to go up to the FI-910 for the auto cross feed and than the freight is $568 how I am going to get a 1/2 ton lathe in my shed I do not know. Looks like I need look at it all over again. It's hard buying a lathe that you cannot see before hand. Canberra is around 2hrs away so I might see what they have. Thanks again for your help and keep the vids coming love them. PS: just got my second rega oil can LOL
+Tunnelrat6666 Hi Will, It's not good news, especially as all three had different problems. I think the third one had a problem with the power feed locking the carriage up. The lathe looked great, and I was disappointed to read this. The forum with the comments is this one: metalworkforums.com/forums/65-METALWORK-FORUM?s=622236d1859541cf53d0e79925103aa6 So, do a search on AL-250G and see if you can find them. Probably about 1-2 years back not long after they first came on the market. Don't rush into buying a lathe. Best to research thoroughly, and if possible examine a few first hand to get an idea on size and quality. Also auto cross feed is a bit over rated. The feed speed should actually increase as the cutter gets near the centre of the facing job due to the reduction of the cutting diameter, but they don't. Doing it manually you can compensate for that. Just takes practice. I saw my Bro-Inlaw on Saturday and he has 5 Regas now (gets them cheap at the weekly farmers market in the local town). They are bringing big money on Ebay now ($70 with postage) for a good undamaged one. Cheers Rob
+Tunnelrat6666 You have to be a member to search the forum, but a quick look brought up these: metalworkforums.com/f65/t181673-lathe-buying-advice-c6-vs-al250g?highlight=al250g metalworkforums.com/f65/t156105-al250g-carriage-movement?highlight=al250g metalworkforums.com/f65/t149335-hafco-al-250g-thread-cutting-limitations?highlight=al250g metalworkforums.com/f65/t193852-al250g-update?highlight=al250g Cheers Rob
+Tunnelrat6666 Whatever lathe you look at or consider buying, ALWAYS do a search on Google for "(lathe model) problem". eg. Google "al-250g problem" and you will see the comments in the Forum I previously listed and a few more. OK, that's not every person who bought one, but it gives you something to consider. Cheers Rob
I can't comment on how noisy this lathe may be as I haven't heard it run. It's belt drive, but does have a spindle driven constant mesh gear set in the headstock for the reverse tumbler. These always make some noise.
hey mate just looking at getting a lathe for about this price range is this still your pick or has it changed in the last year also what other accessories would u get / need to do most normal things thanks
Yes, even more so since lathe prices have gone up - Aus dollar worth less. To start off you need some cutters (TCMT type carbide are cheap and good) and also some HSS blanks. A live centre, small boring bar set, drill chuck for the tailstock, some centre drills, and you're about good to go. You will require some measuring devices as well, so get a dial caliper and a test indicator for starters. A 0-20 mm micrometer is also useful. Cheers Rob
Rob, Nice looking lathe! Other than a little surface rust on the ways and cross slide, it looks great. Thanks for showing some more eye candy! I could spend hours in a place like that. The wife would, obviously, stay home! LOL Thanks again! Regards, Dave
Yes, it's eye candy, but could be helpful to someone actually in the market for a lathe. I think 10" swing is as big as most hobbyists would want to go, without being too big to do finicky stuff. Also keeps the outlay under $2 K. Cheers Rob
Gday rob, what’s the overall quality of this lathe like? Obviously it’s got all the features one looks for when buying a new Chinese lathe, but how does it ‘feel’ compared to say a hafco or optimum? Reason I ask is that I’m in the market for my first lathe and this sounds like a good contender. Only problem is I’m in WA, and can’t see the machine in person, obviously
Might I add, this is quite an unusual size. 280x610mm. In my opinion that’s the perfect inbetween size before you start getting real big. And would be ideal for my motorbike building hobby. There doesn’t seem to much info on this size lathe from what I can tell
It looks good to me Daniel, but the price has gone up since the 2014 review and I have given the best buy gong to another of their lathes (cheaper ) in 2020. Still out of Paramount Browns. Of the people that had got back to me after buying this lathe, all have been happy/positive about it. It's a lot heavier/more lathe than the current best bang for buck winner. It leaves lathes like the AL350G for dead. Cheers Rob
Do you ever make things for people? Wanted to know if you would be interested in making a couple of prototype muzzle devises for me. I would be happy to compensate you for your time and materials. I don't have a ton of money but I'm sure we could work something out. Maybe first do them in acrylic or a similar material to see how they come out/work. Thanks.
koskey06 I don't do work for people as I have very little spare time, and it is not economcally viable due to the time involved. Working in acrylic will require someone with knowledge of that medium. Cheers Rob
This isn't the same as a cheap mini lathe look at the size of the carriage and tailstock . Looks like you can use full size tooling as well. Looks like this lathe weighs at least 300lbs . Much better value over 7x lathe
Hi Rob Firstly thanks for all your very interesting videos, I have spent many happy hours watching and learning about men's stuff. Secondly, I am seeking some advice on lathes. I currently have an Atlas Craftsman 6" lathe which I have had a lot of fun with, however I would like to upgrade to a bit larger lathe. In this video you mention the Paramount F1-610SM lathe as being pretty good value and also a good size for a home workshop. Brown's currently have a F1-610 advertised, is it the same model without the 'SM' designation? I am also interested in the slightly smaller F1-550 model, what are your thoughts on it and which way would you recommend. I live in country New South Wales so I'm not sure whether I would freight the lathe from S A or drive over and pick it up, however selecting the lathe is first priority. Look forward to your hearing you thoughts and advice. Keep up the good work, it's in valuable information for newcomers to machining. Regards Rob
Hi Robert, The F1-610 is about 100 kg heavier. I think that says a lot. I have only ever seen the one version of this lathe out at Paramounts. The F1-550 lathe is not "slightly" smaller, it is a lot smaller. However, it is similar in size and spec to my CQ9325 and that is quite OK for hobby work. Being compact it will fit in a workshop without taking up a lot of space. You really need to see them side by side and decide which is for you. The F1-610 is a semi industrial machine. Cheers Rob
Hi Rob Thanks for the very prompt reply and also for the information. The F1-610 (my initial preference) while its features/accessories look great, I have taken into account your comments and it looks a bit too much machine for my usage. That being the case I will now give the F1-550 a closer look. Thanks again for your valuable advice, keep up the great work. Regards Robert
Hi Robert, Yes, the F1 -550 is more Seig 6 sized. The Fi-610 is larger than an AL320G. So that gives you a pretty fair idea of how big these lathes are. The F1-550 is probably entirely adequate for home hobby use, same as what I do with the CQ9325. I could easily afford to change my lathe, but like my old ute it does all I want and is a pleasure to use. What more can you want? Cheers Rob
Hi Rob Thanks mate, the F1-550 sounds like the way to go. My reason for the upgrade is the little Atlas, while it is a great lathe It is quite small. Thanks again. Regards Rob
Hi Rob Sorry to keep bothering you, however I noticed this lathe and would like your opinion. It's a CQ6125x550 which may be from the same manufacturer as yours. Comes with a three and four jaw chucks, fixed and moving steady rests. The supplier is very close to where I live so that's nice a convenient. What do you think? Regards Rob
Hi Rob, as well as your subject matter always being light and interesting I'm very impressed with the video and audio quality you are achieving with your little Nikon camera, are you using the inbuilt camera mic. or an external mic.? Is there a lot of processing being done after filming or is the image and audio quality pretty much 'straight out of the box' ? Regards, Ray (over Blair Athol area)
Hi Ray, The Nikon has very good optics, especially macro, which I shoot most of my video in for anything out to about 10 feet. Using macro reduces errors in the lens as the focal length is shorter - well that's my theory. The audio is built in and there's no mic jack (big downer, but you don't get that in this price range). The audio has no background hum/noise like my old Canon, but it will over modulate with loud noise if you are not careful. Same thing with the light settings, I always compensate/adjust them manually as the camera on full auto tends to overexpose with overhead lighting - OK outside though. Doing this is very easy. I shoot short clips, edit them with Windows Movie Maker (it's on every PC), then I stitch the clips together with a free program called "Free Video Joiner". This is excellent software, as it will join any mix of video file types, will output in any format you desire (I use MPG or AVI), and automatically compresses the files for uploading to YT without any involvement by me. It's fantastic. So that's about it. I like the Nikon a lot, and for the money it's unbeatable for this type of work IMHO. I also like it using AA batteries, same as my old Canon, as you can use four high capacity Eneloops and swap them out if required. The black Nikon will overheat if shooting in full sunlight in hot weather, but many other brands/models also do this, due to the heat generated with shooting video. I hope this helps. Cheers Rob
What do you think of this deal... www.machineryhouse.com.au/K001?promo=EOFY19&AU_EOFY_101_18-06-19&AU_EOFY_101_18-06-19+CID_8dc7eb9bd607ab57b97445a1bc113174&EDM
@@zebby264 On paper it looks terrific. Ticks all the boxes. Has everything. I have checked it out. Price is OK too. Unfortunately I know of three people who bought this model lathe and had serious quality control issues. These included diverging ways on the cross slide and difficulty/unable to change the geared headstock speeds. One guy sold it and got something else. So be aware that these issues were posted on a major Australian Metal Work forum not long after the AL250G went on sale. What the situation is like now, I can't say. Cheers Rob
@Tom Apidopoulos Hi Tom, I've only read good comments about that model. Well featured. I haven't seen this close up, so I can only go on forum feedback. I like that it goes down to 0.07 mm feed, which is a good thing. Also has switchable belt gearing ratios on the spindle drive in addition to electronic, which is a good feature for heavy going. So yes, it looks like a sweet unit for home and hobby use. Cheers Rob
What do I hate about my Chinese lathe. Constant never ending back lash from supa soft lead screws that need constant adjustment to maintain accuracy. In short you pay for what you get.
Hi Pete. Very limited offerings. AL320G is in that slot, but it's not something I would ever recommend - no QCGB for a lathe that size is simply unacceptable. Price is also too high. The lathe in the video is still number one pick in this field - it's just not best bang for buck (for hobbyists) compared to the smaller lathes now being offered. So you really have to go into the 12" swing territory and that is quite a step up in size and price range. There are a lot of lathes in this field. They look impressive and generally are well kitted out. Chuck size will be larger and a lot heavier to man handle/ much less appealing. Anything over 6" will be a chore to swap over. Minimum gripping size also becomes less. Spindle size goes up, but cheap collet fixtures are not so readily available. So there is a trade off. I personally would not go beyond a 10" swing lathe unless I had a specific need for a larger/ heavier capability. You gain in some ways, but lose a lot more in small work ease of use, for general backyard machinists. So at the end of the day, you really have to scope the work size and type of use you predominantly intend to do with this new machine. If you are going to be impacted negatively (in any way) then you should really think long and hard if this is actually a wise decision. Cheers Rob
@@Xynudu Thanks very much for taking the time to reply, Rob. You raise some great points I had not considered (i.e. tooling and working with small pieces). This is my first foray into machining. Your advice has helped convince me that I should start off with a smaller machine - maybe work up from there if it becomes a more serious "hobby". I have no specific purpose other than to tinker and make smaller projects such as model engines. Great channel, great advice. Try and keep cool and have a safe Christmas. kind regards, Pete
Thanks for this. I have a old premo lathe, with ball bearing headstock. Now trying to find a cheap suitable mill attachment for it. Being made in English standard with a place to mount one on the saddle. Can anyone help with recommendations. I'm old, so need something to work with.
Hi, thanks for the information. Buying a lathe when really not having any practical knowledge is challenging. I am in Adelaide and looking for a lathe i was at Paramount s yesterday and its daunting, do i spend the extra and get the geared head with 38 mil bore or get a 26 mil bore, will i need that extra length the list going through my mind continues lol , your clip has given a confidence in the company and the lathes they sell so thankyou for sharing it. I just have to settle my mind and pick one. Cheerz
Hi Tom, it's a bit like buying a car. Similar issues when you think about it. Don't get too hung up on having a geared head, belt drive works fine. A more important thing is that it has a quick change gearbox for the feed rate - you will use this far more often. This is where the AL320G falls down badly. Once you go past 10" swing on a lathe you will have reduced tactile feel, reduced minimum grip capability with the larger chucks, much heavier chucks to swap over, and more expensive tooling sizes. The cost is much greater and so is the size. It is safer to learn on a smaller lathe in case something goes wrong. Bigger lathes have their uses, so scope out your requirements regarding expected use of the unit. Good luck. Cheers Rob
+ShysterLawyer Yes, it was a great buy for the money. I've had a stellar run out of it. The current replacement model is pretty ordinary. I suppose compared to the rest of the offerings in that price range it's good value, but I'd rather spend the extra, and go up to the next model. Way better machine. Cheers Rob
There's lots to consider. In the previous video I showed a blue Impala branded lathe similar to the Paramount one, and it was nice, well made, but it had really horrible to use indexing dials, which I didn't mention at the time. Even little things like that can make the difference. All comes down to available space, cash, and what you want to use it for. Big choice in Oz. Rob
+xynudu Good video Rob, im looking to buy at moment, the one in video is now 2yrs on 1900 bux , im an ex fitter turner from many years ago but literally not touched in years so need to start at beginner again, albeit i may pick it up quicker , but just want to do some model engine work etc, would you say this belt drive is pick still, compared to hare and forbes stuff, like specifically this one, brushless motor www.machineryhouse.com.au/L689 ? its all very informative, as its a lot to take in, and want to get it right as dont want to be changing up later. so could you add opinions here thanks Ron
Hi Ron. I would still buy the one in the video. It is a well featured "for the money". The variable speed unit looks good also, but it's smaller (that is not necessarily an issue). It depends upon what you are going to use it for and how highly you value electronic speed control. It is a nice feature. I haven't had a close look at the H&F lathe. It's like buying a car, Everyone has a different view on what makes a good car and what it should be able to do. Sorry I can't help more, but it's a personal choice thing. Cheers Rob.
+xynudu Thanks Rob,Yeah your right, I saw the workman CQ6125 x 550 on ebay, free delivery, BUT no reverse tumbler, Ive looked at the mod to make it so, but don't think i'm up to that speed with things just yet.Without going up a lot in money, each one has what the other doesn't n so you go round in circles.I think i'll bite the bullet n go with your recommendation, still a bit of saving to do.....:(I don't want to buy a 'first' lathe then upgrade, its too much drama selling plus uprooting quite heavy stuff and replacing, id rather buy a decent one at the outset. I just want to rekindle my skills and do some small steam model engines poss moving onto IC engines, just basic stuff but don't wanna be stuck when I need to cut a LH thread or similar.Thanks again,Your videos are great, very informative...:)Hoo Roo
hey mate always interesting to see vids from adel heheh. any change on your opinons since this vid? ive been hunting for something round the 1k mark but cant find much that doesn't have a sub 200mm swing...
+sn0wchyld There's nothing at that price in that swing that I've seen new - currently. Even secondhand you are unlikely to get anything recent/decent for that money. New prices have also gone up since the dollar dropped. Cheers Rob
No, I keep the same one. It's just good to look around and see what the manufacturers come up with. Prices are very good here, particularly when you consider they haven't gone up in 10 years. Probably to do with AU /China exchange rate. Rob
Hi, I brought a cq6128 I found this video as I'm trying to get new belts for it, I don't have a sample is there any info you have? I emailed Paramount and they don't really wanna help. Specific to the timing belt on the motor. Cheers,
Hi Michell, normally Chinese lathes use standard sized toothed belts (for obvious reason). If you don't have a sample you will have to measure the drive pulleys to get the tooth spacing and size. Then run a strap or some string around the pulley path to get the length. A drive belt or bearing supplier usually stocks all types of belts. It's also quite possible that belt is used on other machines, so enquire with other dealers once you have the measurements. Take a pulley with you to show them for a match. A quick search shows this company in NZ may be able to help you. www.chevpac.co.nz/catalogue/page/gl-6128-spare-parts_SPA_S115_C317/lathe-cq6128-timer-belt_SPS200721?p=1 Send them an Email about suitability and availability. Cheers Rob
@@Xynudu thank you, enjoying your channel, i watched your video before purchase of the lathe thanks for the walk thru of the lathe at Paramount (mines the same different branding), now to find my belts! cheers.
Hello, I am currently looking for lathes and researching on china, lookin for a 1.5 meter long lathe . But my question is if you recommend chinese lathes. Im looking at ones that cost bout $8k. with shippin to central america. Any help would greatly be appreciated.
Radigundo Custorio That is a lot of money for a 1.5 metre lathe. Chinese lathes are accurate, but quality may vary. Certainly there is no guarantee they are ready to use as delivered from the factory. They are however now widely used in industry, and for that sort of money you would expect a quality machine. I would require user references from existing buyers before placing an order. You could buy a top quality European lathe in excellent used condition for that sort of money. Unless you can identify a respected quality Chinese lathe maker, you are dealing with the unknown. That's as much as I can suggest on this subject. I hope that helps. Cheers Rob
I requested a manual for the 6128 from PB's but no response. Do you know what the range of settings are for the lower 2 knobs (A,B,C I, II, III) and the chuck mounting system? BTW, I rec'd a quote from the manufacturer in China for $1050USD including freight to Vancouver, Canada (no 4 jaw, steady or stand though)
Ooops - I didn't look past the first page. Sorry about that. From memory and in line with similar lathes I've seen, the two lower knobs select the feed speed. One knob will have the three basic feed ratios (X - 2X - 4X) X being the finest feed gearing. The other knob "Y" will then interact with the "X" gear selection to split/change the gearing again (not sure of the "Y" increments). So when you look at the feed chart there will be three main columns for "X", down which will be listed the thread pitches and the "Y" selection necessary (plus the change gear settings in the drive enclosure - which may have to be altered for some uncommon pitches). I hope that helps. Cheers Rob
Thanks, I just want to be sure I will not need to change gears to achieve a practical range of fine, medium, coarse feed rates.. Do you know if the leadscrew has a slot that drives the power feed or does it use the half nuts?
Hello, thanks for the information... I am currently looking at a small unit for home use. I can get a Myford Super7 in a good condition, not sure how much to offer the owner for it? or should i get one of these? Thanks
erick s The Myfords were great small lathes when new, but they are fairly light weight, and everything wears over time. Personally I would buy new, and the lathe in the video is quite good. Myfords are a bit over rated IMHO, and not what I would buy. It's a case of whatever rocks your boat. It's your choice, for whatever reasons. I have old and new lathes and both work well. Can't help you with this one. Rob
erick s +1 on that. A friend had used a Myford and wasn't overly impressed. He bought a CQ9325 like mine, and then later was given a plain old 9" Hercus with no QCGB. He then sold the CQ9325. Go figure :) It's really a matter of what appeals to you. A bit like buying a car. Cheers Rob
erick s The Myford is a lot smaller than the lathe in the video. If the Myford is in good (not worn) condition and is cheapest then it would be ideal for your task. I won't advise on which to buy as there are too many unknows, even with new lathes - they can all have problems. Certainly, I would only buy a lathe that has a quick change gearbox. Cheers Rob.
Tunnelrat6666 Yes, still my first choice on a bang for buck basis. It's what I would buy. Consider smaller lathes as well if you are into model making. Of note: apparently the AL250g which looks to tick all the boxes, has problems and is not well made - reading owners comments in forums. Not much else new on the scene, and like all things it's a bit of a lottery on how well it's put together. Cheers Rob
xynudu WOW thanks for the fast response. I am looking at making bushings for my mountain bike forks out of 35mm round alloy and would like to have a crack at making some custom LED touches and I am sure a list of other stuff. Just always wanted one to play with back from my school days in metal work. Not into small model stuff so really wanted as big as I could afford. What is a good forums to help me work out all the tools and knowledge I am going to need. Looks like its the FI-610 just need to work out how the hell I am going to get 258kgs off the truck and into my shed ? thanks Will
Tunnelrat6666 Weight is an issue and often a deciding factor on what to buy. My CQ9325 is not as heavy as some, but still a handfull for one person. I made the stand for it, dynabolted it down, backed the tray top ute up to it in the shed, and slid the lathe from the tray onto the stand, one end at a time (bolting it down lightly where possible). Worked good. Regarding forums, there are plenty of good ones in Yahoo groups - eg. 10x22 Grizzly and 9x20 are both good. Also Woodwork Forum - Metal work section is good. Plenty of BS in forums from some members, but overall it's a good learning medium. Also an old but good book to read is Text Book of Turning by Hercus Lathes (free download): www.bbssystem.com/manuals/Lathe-Tutorial.pdf
Hi Daniel, This seems to be an Australian market model. I haven't seen it sold in this configuration anywhere else. I notice a lot of new models are being brought into Australia lately (in 9 and 10 inch swing). Looks like the Chinese manufacturers are finally breaking away from their long standing versions /formats. This can only be a good thing, as some appear to be quite nicely configured and finished. Cheers Rob
Hi again, Just recently I looked again at this lathe and a slightly smaller Optimum model sold by another dealer, both for $1,999 on line. This one still kills everything else stone dead IMHO "for the money". It's noticeable that the price of this and all other new lathes in Australia has risen quite a bit over the years, for various reasons. That's why I think the Chinese are trying to address the price factor with newer models. Buying a lathe is like buying a car, lots to consider. I hope you find what you want. Cheers Rob
OK. Hopefully it's not worn. A paint job does not bring a lathe back to spec. Everything wears out eventually, no matter who makes it. Lathes are all basically made of the same stuff. My Schaublin was a total cot case, so check carefully and thoroughly, or you will find that fixing any wear will be a major issue. Good luck with your purchase. Cheers Rob
I went to see it and the bed has lots of wear. Good thing I brought my dti. Good news though I found what seems to me the same lathe as yours. picked it up today, very dirty but almost in new condition other wise
Hello, thanks for all the great information....another question....in the video you are showing the next step up lathe from the one you have.....is the lathe in the following link the same one?www.boltontool.com/Lathe/metal-lathe/10-x-22-high-precision-variable-speed-metal-lathe or this one? www.boltontool.com/Lathe/metal-lathe/12-x-24-gear-head-bench-lathe-cq9332 thanks for the help....just trying the best bang for the buck lathe in the USA.
Jean Weaver Hi Jean. No problem. Neither of those lathes are the same as shown in the video. The 10x22 is actually very similar in spec to my old CQ9325 and definitely the one I would chose of these two. It has continuously variable electronic speed control - nice. The 12x24 is a larger lathe, but does not have a quick change gearbox for carriage feed. This is a big negative IMHO and I wouldn't buy it for that reason. I have had a close look at this lathe as it's sold in Oz as the AL240G and wasn't overly impressed. The10x22 looks pretty good to me, and should do most things for home use. Cheers Rob
Jean Weaver OOps, my bad. The 12x24 lathe is sold in Oz as the AL320G. There is a lathe sold as the AL250G and although it looks very good on paper, it has some serious quality control issues, according to owners in Oz forums. The quality of lathes out of Asia can vary between manufacturers, etc. It's a bit of a lottery as to how good the item will be when received. But for the money they generally are pretty good. Cheers Rob
That cross-slide thickness is so irrelevant in a lathe and especially when the topslide is bolted to it. In small lathes like these the forces are so small that getting that cross-slide to bend is pretty much impossible. And like I said, when the topslide is bolted to it, the stiffness skyrockets and it is like there never was any T-slots cut into it. Basic mechanics and structural engineering.
That's a display model that's been sitting there for years. LOL. You get a new unrusted one in a crate when you buy. Thought that would be pretty obvious.
The same lathe. There have been lots of new arrivals (mostly smaller) since I shot that video, but on a bang for buck basis it is still the best value/most capable unit without getting too large and over my $2K limit. However, many people want a smaller lathe of about 18" bed (like my CQ9325) so it all comes down to personal choice. There are lots of models that size to choose from. Features vary between them. Cheers Rob
You must be getting sick of questions like this :) I'm in NZ. Have you had any experience with the Optimum TU-2506V (such as this one with mill combo: www.machineryhouse.co.nz/K146)? Heard anything good or bad?
Hi Peter, The Optimum brand is supposedly German quality (made in China) and supposedly a cut above the rest. I've looked at their lathes, and while nicely finished, don't appear to be significantly better than Seig or other offerings from Asia. They do use a lot of die cast alloy for hand wheels and control levers, which I personally don't like, but that is quite a common practice these days. I do know that the stand alone Optimum mill, which appears similar to that fitted on this lathe, is prone to gear failure in the drive head. Apart from multiple postings in forums, I have had first hand notification of this from a purchaser in WA, who spent $2K on one and then had it fail big time. I believe the gears are fibre or plastic. The retailer refused to cover the repair. You do have a recognised company to fall back on, but it's a matter of what their warranty covers, and how they judge "misuse" - as per the WA guy's situation. I'm quite happy to answer questions, but I can only pass on factual information of what I know - which is quite limited in this case. I've had no experience with mill on lathe configurations, but Emco and Seig have done this for years. It would be OK for light work I expect. I hope this helps. Cheers Rob
At NZ$3k (about the same in AU$) it seems like it's worth me checking out. $2.4k for just the lathe. I'll only be doing Aluminium stuff (I say that now...). Thanks for the info, I'll read up as much as I can, especially on the mill.
Hi Peter, I was actually looking at their stand alone mill a while back, after seeing it in a few videos, and it seemed to cut quite well (steel) and wasn't too bulky. Looked nicely designed. But then I had an email from the guy in WA about his, and saw some similar problems in forums, and passed on getting one. Having said that, there are also quite a lot of comments from happy owners, but the idea of plastic gears doesn't inspire me much. You can get steel gear kits for a lot of these small mills (which all seem to use poly gears) but that's just more hassle and expense. I hope it all works out for you.. Cheers Rob
Hi mate been looking at the same combo deal but not sure what lathe to buy asked a few machinist and they said it would be a great starting lathe but get is with 26mm bore at min . all the best
10 years ago for 1,100 you got a steal of a deal what a fantastic piece of machinery
NOTE: This lathe uses a toothed "Gilmer" drive belt. From comments received it appears the seller does not stock a replacement belt. It is however stocked by Adelaide Belt and Hose (show them the old one) according to feedback from at least two owners. That being the case, I expect it is a common/standard configuration and should be available from similar companies (CBC etc).
Earlier Imperial measurement belts have been known to be used on some Chinese lathes and can be extremely difficult to source, so always check before buying. Cheers Rob
The quick change qearbox makes up for some of those losses. It does add a fair amount to the price, so cutting back on some of the features, while maintaining the price, makes sense. You can’t get something for nothing, and the gearbox can add $200 American, to the price, even when subtracting the price of the change gears. Hobbyists are very price conscious. Being able to do feed changes easily, and screw cutting, without having to constantly change gears, a tedious and messy practice, will be worth it to many people.
I don’t know like the tailstock on that lathe in the store that you first showed at the store. The cantilevered spindle isn’t the most rigid or stable.
Thanks for the reply Rod. The search continues, while i have never owned a lathe i have used one from time to time. Quick change gearbox is a preferred option, thankyou for bringing that up as i thought geared head ment the same thing. The Optimun Tu250 looks like it might get the go ahead, downside i have heard peaple have haf bad experiences with Hare @ forbes. Thanks again
Hi, I have a HBM450 - a European version of the CQ9325. After some modification and tweaking I'm pretty happy with it. Good machine for the price. These are still available from the supplier in Netherlands from which I bought it.
Regards Nikolay
I see that Bolton Machinery in CA USA also still sell them. Maybe the factory price went up, so Paramount Machinery switched to a more basic unit as a result. It's a pity as it's really in a class of it's own, and was great value. Rob.
I went to Paramounts over the last 5 weeks but they don't have any lathes in stock at all .... bugger , so 4 weeks ago I ended up getting one from the Birkenhead Ebay shop , delivered the very next day by Ute for free, I got a Workman CQ6125 10X22 lathe $1675.... could not wait for Paramounts any longer. This one has reverse , quick change gearbox , 4 jaw + 3 Jaw chuck , 26 mm Spindle bore , MT 3 tailstock , travellig steady + fixed steady .... So I guess it's basically what you wanted on a lathe... or me I mean, plus it came with the stand as well. Now I gotta learn how to use it... This lathe is actually a Grizzly 602 machine in fact I downloaded the grizzly 602 manual because it is more complete than what came with my lathe and it is definitely the same lathe. cheers Robert Here
outbackdigital Sounds like a good deal. The CQ6125 comes in many variations, depending on how it's specified by the seller. Many sites/outlets sell this series lathe. Some only have a Morse 2 tailstock. Some have camlock tailstock, some don't.
Never seen too many negatives on them. I would buy one if my CQ9325 ever pegged out - which is unlikely. I've had a good close look at them and for the money they are unbeatable (of the current offerings).
I hope you have a good run out of it.
Cheers. Rob.
xynudu Hi Robert. As far as I know the 602 doesn't have a reverse tumbler for the leadscrew - which the Paramount unit does have (in the headstock). You can reverse the motor on all modern lathes, but leadscrew direction change is another thing all together.
There are mods available to fit/fabricate reverse tumblers for most lathes.
Cheers. Rob
xynudu Thanks for your reply Rob , I know that I am only picking up the Jargon in the last few weeks so forgive me any errors in my assessment of the lathe functions.... when you say reverse tumbler on the lead screw.... does that mean that my power feed can power feed forwards and backwards ... Because if I throw the reverse lever I can Knurl towards the head stock , then go from forward to reverse. then leave the half nut engaged and auto feed the Knurl back in the oposite direction towards the tail stock, that's how I have been knurling.
outbackdigital Hi Rob. To clarify things without seeing your lathe, does the lathe have a feature in the gears to reverse the rotation of the leadscrew WITHOUT reversing the motor direction?
This is what a reverse tumbler (in the change gears, or running off of the spindle) does.
For knurling, you can simply reverse motor direction as you are not using a cutter.
Cheers. Rob.
+xynudu
On this lathe in question, even if it doesnt have actual reverse tumbler, couldnt you manually swap the gears to drive it in reverse for the ocassional left hand thread?
Gday mate, great video. Nice look at what is available down under. I don't think you can get that good a deal here. The first thing I noticed when you got in the truck is that someone has put your steering wheel on the wrong side. I have some software that could turn the video around so it is on the right side if you want to try it. Next time your at the equipment place maybe you could give us a walk around so we can see the whole place. Awaiting your next video.
That's not good news I could not find any reviews on the AL-250G. When I seen it had the auto cross feed + the quick change I thought I was onto a winner + the freight was only $113
The freight is a killer for me from Paramounts Browns as I am in Bega NSW $357.00. Looks like I need to go up to the FI-910 for the auto cross feed and than the freight is $568 how I am going to get a 1/2 ton lathe in my shed I do not know.
Looks like I need look at it all over again. It's hard buying a lathe that you cannot see before hand. Canberra is around 2hrs away so I might see what they have.
Thanks again for your help and keep the vids coming love them. PS: just got my second rega oil can LOL
+Tunnelrat6666
Hi Will,
It's not good news, especially as all three had different problems. I think the third one had a problem with the power feed locking the carriage up. The lathe looked great, and I was disappointed to read this.
The forum with the comments is this one:
metalworkforums.com/forums/65-METALWORK-FORUM?s=622236d1859541cf53d0e79925103aa6
So, do a search on AL-250G and see if you can find them. Probably about 1-2 years back not long after they first came on the market.
Don't rush into buying a lathe. Best to research thoroughly, and if possible examine a few first hand to get an idea on size and quality.
Also auto cross feed is a bit over rated. The feed speed should actually increase as the cutter gets near the centre of the facing job due to the reduction of the cutting diameter, but they don't. Doing it manually you can compensate for that. Just takes practice.
I saw my Bro-Inlaw on Saturday and he has 5 Regas now (gets them cheap at the weekly farmers market in the local town). They are bringing big money on Ebay now ($70 with postage) for a good undamaged one.
Cheers Rob
+Tunnelrat6666
You have to be a member to search the forum, but a quick look brought up these:
metalworkforums.com/f65/t181673-lathe-buying-advice-c6-vs-al250g?highlight=al250g
metalworkforums.com/f65/t156105-al250g-carriage-movement?highlight=al250g
metalworkforums.com/f65/t149335-hafco-al-250g-thread-cutting-limitations?highlight=al250g
metalworkforums.com/f65/t193852-al250g-update?highlight=al250g
Cheers Rob
+Tunnelrat6666
Whatever lathe you look at or consider buying, ALWAYS do a search on Google for "(lathe model) problem".
eg. Google "al-250g problem" and you will see the comments in the Forum I previously listed and a few more.
OK, that's not every person who bought one, but it gives you something to consider.
Cheers Rob
I can't comment on how noisy this lathe may be as I haven't heard it run. It's belt drive, but does have a spindle driven constant mesh gear set in the headstock for the reverse tumbler. These always make some noise.
hey mate just looking at getting a lathe for about this price range is this still your pick or has it changed in the last year also what other accessories would u get / need to do most normal things thanks
Yes, even more so since lathe prices have gone up - Aus dollar worth less.
To start off you need some cutters (TCMT type carbide are cheap and good) and also some HSS blanks.
A live centre, small boring bar set, drill chuck for the tailstock, some centre drills, and you're about good to go.
You will require some measuring devices as well, so get a dial caliper and a test indicator for starters. A 0-20 mm micrometer is also useful.
Cheers
Rob
+xynudu awesome thanks heaps for all the info loved the vid
xynudu hare Forbes
Rob,
Nice looking lathe! Other than a little surface rust on the ways and cross slide, it looks great. Thanks for showing some more eye candy! I could spend hours in a place like that. The wife would, obviously, stay home! LOL Thanks again!
Regards,
Dave
Yes, it's eye candy, but could be helpful to someone actually in the market for a lathe. I think 10" swing is as big as most hobbyists would want to go, without being too big to do finicky stuff. Also keeps the outlay under $2 K. Cheers Rob
That's only the display lathe. When you buy one you get unopened factory stock in a crate. Load and go :) Boys and their toys. Rob
Their adverts back on line. I think they might have the 610 back. In stock gepps cross wherever that is. Im in W.A.
i have the old version of this lathe, it doesn't have a reverse tumbler. Commonly known as the 10x22 in north america
Nice vid. Just bought a Taig mini lathe and acessories and would love to buy a larger lathe some day $$ .
It will happen. No rush. Rob
Gday rob, what’s the overall quality of this lathe like? Obviously it’s got all the features one looks for when buying a new Chinese lathe, but how does it ‘feel’ compared to say a hafco or optimum? Reason I ask is that I’m in the market for my first lathe and this sounds like a good contender. Only problem is I’m in WA, and can’t see the machine in person, obviously
Might I add, this is quite an unusual size. 280x610mm. In my opinion that’s the perfect inbetween size before you start getting real big. And would be ideal for my motorbike building hobby. There doesn’t seem to much info on this size lathe from what I can tell
It looks good to me Daniel, but the price has gone up since the 2014 review and I have given the best buy gong to another of their lathes (cheaper ) in 2020. Still out of Paramount Browns. Of the people that had got back to me after buying this lathe, all have been happy/positive about it. It's a lot heavier/more lathe than the current best bang for buck winner. It leaves lathes like the AL350G for dead. Cheers Rob
Do you ever make things for people? Wanted to know if you would be interested in making a couple of prototype muzzle devises for me. I would be happy to compensate you for your time and materials. I don't have a ton of money but I'm sure we could work something out. Maybe first do them in acrylic or a similar material to see how they come out/work. Thanks.
koskey06 I don't do work for people as I have very little spare time, and it is not economcally viable due to the time involved. Working in acrylic will require someone with knowledge of that medium. Cheers Rob
This isn't the same as a cheap mini lathe look at the size of the carriage and tailstock . Looks like you can use full size tooling as well. Looks like this lathe weighs at least 300lbs . Much better value over 7x lathe
Hi Rob
Firstly thanks for all your very interesting videos, I have spent many happy hours watching and learning about men's stuff. Secondly, I am seeking some advice on lathes. I currently have an Atlas Craftsman 6" lathe which I have had a lot of fun with, however I would like to upgrade to a bit larger lathe. In this video you mention the Paramount F1-610SM lathe as being pretty good value and also a good size for a home workshop. Brown's currently have a F1-610 advertised, is it the same model without the 'SM' designation? I am also interested in the slightly smaller F1-550 model, what are your thoughts on it and which way would you recommend.
I live in country New South Wales so I'm not sure whether I would freight the lathe from S A or drive over and pick it up, however selecting the lathe is first priority.
Look forward to your hearing you thoughts and advice. Keep up the good work, it's in valuable information for newcomers to machining.
Regards
Rob
Hi Robert,
The F1-610 is about 100 kg heavier. I think that says a lot. I have only ever seen the one version of this lathe out at Paramounts.
The F1-550 lathe is not "slightly" smaller, it is a lot smaller. However, it is similar in size and spec to my CQ9325 and that is quite OK for hobby work. Being compact it will fit in a workshop without taking up a lot of space. You really need to see them side by side and decide which is for you.
The F1-610 is a semi industrial machine.
Cheers Rob
Hi Rob
Thanks for the very prompt reply and also for the information. The F1-610 (my initial preference) while its features/accessories look great, I have taken into account your comments and it looks a bit too much machine for my usage. That being the case I will now give the F1-550 a closer look.
Thanks again for your valuable advice, keep up the great work.
Regards
Robert
Hi Robert,
Yes, the F1 -550 is more Seig 6 sized. The Fi-610 is larger than an AL320G. So that gives you a pretty fair idea of how big these lathes are.
The F1-550 is probably entirely adequate for home hobby use, same as what I do with the CQ9325. I could easily afford to change my lathe, but like my old ute it does all I want and is a pleasure to use. What more can you want? Cheers Rob
Hi Rob
Thanks mate, the F1-550 sounds like the way to go. My reason for the upgrade is the little Atlas, while it is a great lathe It is quite small.
Thanks again.
Regards
Rob
Hi Rob
Sorry to keep bothering you, however I noticed this lathe and would like your opinion. It's a CQ6125x550 which may be from the same manufacturer as yours. Comes with a three and four jaw chucks, fixed and moving steady rests.
The supplier is very close to where I live so that's nice a convenient.
What do you think?
Regards
Rob
Hi Rob, as well as your subject matter always being light and interesting I'm very impressed with the video and audio quality you are achieving with your little Nikon camera, are you using the inbuilt camera mic. or an external mic.? Is there a lot of processing being done after filming or is the image and audio quality pretty much 'straight out of the box' ?
Regards, Ray (over Blair Athol area)
Hi Ray,
The Nikon has very good optics, especially macro, which I shoot most of my video in for anything out to about 10 feet.
Using macro reduces errors in the lens as the focal length is shorter - well that's my theory.
The audio is built in and there's no mic jack (big downer, but you don't get that in this price range).
The audio has no background hum/noise like my old Canon, but it will over modulate with loud noise if you are not careful.
Same thing with the light settings, I always compensate/adjust them manually as the camera on full auto tends to overexpose with overhead lighting - OK outside though. Doing this is very easy.
I shoot short clips, edit them with Windows Movie Maker (it's on every PC), then I stitch the clips together with a free program called "Free Video Joiner".
This is excellent software, as it will join any mix of video file types, will output in any format you desire (I use MPG or AVI), and automatically compresses the files for uploading to YT without any involvement by me. It's fantastic.
So that's about it. I like the Nikon a lot, and for the money it's unbeatable for this type of work IMHO.
I also like it using AA batteries, same as my old Canon, as you can use four high capacity Eneloops and swap them out if required.
The black Nikon will overheat if shooting in full sunlight in hot weather, but many other brands/models also do this, due to the heat generated with shooting video.
I hope this helps.
Cheers Rob
I forgot to mention that video editing is limited to cutting the clips to length, and maybe lower the volume if required.
That's it.
Cheers Rob
It's interesting that no one has suggested a better lathe for the money from any of the distributors. Says a lot.
i dont thin you would find a better one for that price. ill pay that secondhand :)
What do you think of this deal...
www.machineryhouse.com.au/K001?promo=EOFY19&AU_EOFY_101_18-06-19&AU_EOFY_101_18-06-19+CID_8dc7eb9bd607ab57b97445a1bc113174&EDM
@@zebby264 On paper it looks terrific. Ticks all the boxes. Has everything. I have checked it out. Price is OK too.
Unfortunately I know of three people who bought this model lathe and had serious quality control issues. These included diverging ways on the cross slide and difficulty/unable to change the geared headstock speeds. One guy sold it and got something else.
So be aware that these issues were posted on a major Australian Metal Work forum not long after the AL250G went on sale. What the situation is like now, I can't say.
Cheers Rob
@Tom Apidopoulos Hi Tom,
I've only read good comments about that model. Well featured. I haven't seen this close up, so I can only go on forum feedback.
I like that it goes down to 0.07 mm feed, which is a good thing. Also has switchable belt gearing ratios on the spindle drive in addition to electronic, which is a good feature for heavy going.
So yes, it looks like a sweet unit for home and hobby use.
Cheers Rob
@Tom Apidopoulos Hi Tom, I hope you have a good run with it. Looks to be a decent unit. Cheers Rob
What do I hate about my Chinese lathe. Constant never ending back lash from supa soft lead screws that need constant adjustment to maintain accuracy. In short you pay for what you get.
Hi Rob. Appreciate your vids. What would you recommend now as a "one up from hobby lathe".
Hi Pete. Very limited offerings. AL320G is in that slot, but it's not something I would ever recommend - no QCGB for a lathe that size is simply unacceptable. Price is also too high.
The lathe in the video is still number one pick in this field - it's just not best bang for buck (for hobbyists) compared to the smaller lathes now being offered.
So you really have to go into the 12" swing territory and that is quite a step up in size and price range. There are a lot of lathes in this field. They look impressive and generally are well kitted out.
Chuck size will be larger and a lot heavier to man handle/ much less appealing. Anything over 6" will be a chore to swap over. Minimum gripping size also becomes less. Spindle size goes up, but cheap collet fixtures are not so readily available. So there is a trade off.
I personally would not go beyond a 10" swing lathe unless I had a specific need for a larger/ heavier capability. You gain in some ways, but lose a lot more in small work ease of use, for general backyard machinists.
So at the end of the day, you really have to scope the work size and type of use you predominantly intend to do with this new machine. If you are going to be impacted negatively (in any way) then you should really think long and hard if this is actually a wise decision.
Cheers Rob
@@Xynudu Thanks very much for taking the time to reply, Rob. You raise some great points I had not considered (i.e. tooling and working with small pieces). This is my first foray into machining. Your advice has helped convince me that I should start off with a smaller machine - maybe work up from there if it becomes a more serious "hobby". I have no specific purpose other than to tinker and make smaller projects such as model engines. Great channel, great advice. Try and keep cool and have a safe Christmas. kind regards, Pete
Thanks for this. I have a old premo lathe, with ball bearing headstock. Now trying to find a cheap suitable mill attachment for it. Being made in English standard with a place to mount one on the saddle. Can anyone help with recommendations. I'm old, so need something to work with.
Hi, thanks for the information. Buying a lathe when really not having any practical knowledge is challenging. I am in Adelaide and looking for a lathe i was at Paramount s yesterday and its daunting, do i spend the extra and get the geared head with 38 mil bore or get a 26 mil bore, will i need that extra length the list going through my mind continues lol , your clip has given a confidence in the company and the lathes they sell so thankyou for sharing it. I just have to settle my mind and pick one. Cheerz
Hi Tom, it's a bit like buying a car. Similar issues when you think about it.
Don't get too hung up on having a geared head, belt drive works fine. A more important thing is that it has a quick change gearbox for the feed rate - you will use this far more often. This is where the AL320G falls down badly.
Once you go past 10" swing on a lathe you will have reduced tactile feel, reduced minimum grip capability with the larger chucks, much heavier chucks to swap over, and more expensive tooling sizes. The cost is much greater and so is the size. It is safer to learn on a smaller lathe in case something goes wrong.
Bigger lathes have their uses, so scope out your requirements regarding expected use of the unit. Good luck. Cheers Rob
I'd say your original lathe was a pretty good buy for the money. Too bad they decided to go to a lesser model.
+ShysterLawyer
Yes, it was a great buy for the money. I've had a stellar run out of it.
The current replacement model is pretty ordinary. I suppose compared to the rest of the offerings in that price range it's good value, but I'd rather spend the extra, and go up to the next model.
Way better machine.
Cheers Rob
Nice unit, makes me wish I looked a little harder when I bought mine.
There's lots to consider. In the previous video I showed a blue Impala branded lathe similar to the Paramount one, and it was nice, well made, but it had really horrible to use indexing dials, which I didn't mention at the time. Even little things like that can make the difference. All comes down to available space, cash, and what you want to use it for. Big choice in Oz. Rob
+xynudu Good video Rob,
im looking to buy at moment, the one in video is now 2yrs on 1900 bux ,
im an ex fitter turner from many years ago but literally not touched in years so need to start at beginner again, albeit i may pick it up quicker , but just want to do some model engine work etc,
would you say this belt drive is pick still, compared to hare and forbes stuff, like specifically this one, brushless motor
www.machineryhouse.com.au/L689 ?
its all very informative, as its a lot to take in, and want to get it right as dont want to be changing up later.
so could you add opinions here
thanks
Ron
Hi Ron. I would still buy the one in the video. It is a well featured "for the money".
The variable speed unit looks good also, but it's smaller (that is not necessarily an issue). It depends upon what you are going to use it for and how highly you value electronic speed control. It is a nice feature.
I haven't had a close look at the H&F lathe.
It's like buying a car, Everyone has a different view on what makes a good car and what it should be able to do.
Sorry I can't help more, but it's a personal choice thing.
Cheers Rob.
+xynudu Thanks Rob,Yeah your right, I saw the workman CQ6125 x 550 on ebay, free delivery, BUT no reverse tumbler, Ive looked at the mod to make it so, but don't think i'm up to that speed with things just yet.Without going up a lot in money, each one has what the other doesn't n so you go round in circles.I think i'll bite the bullet n go with your recommendation, still a bit of saving to do.....:(I don't want to buy a 'first' lathe then upgrade, its too much drama selling plus uprooting quite heavy stuff and replacing, id rather buy a decent one at the outset. I just want to rekindle my skills and do some small steam model engines poss moving onto IC engines, just basic stuff but don't wanna be stuck when I need to cut a LH thread or similar.Thanks again,Your videos are great, very informative...:)Hoo Roo
hey mate
always interesting to see vids from adel heheh.
any change on your opinons since this vid? ive been hunting for something round the 1k mark but cant find much that doesn't have a sub 200mm swing...
+sn0wchyld
There's nothing at that price in that swing that I've seen new - currently. Even secondhand you are unlikely to get anything recent/decent for that money.
New prices have also gone up since the dollar dropped.
Cheers Rob
+sn0wchyld
Forgot to mention, for a basic new lathe, this is still best bang for buck IMHO.
Cheers Rob
xynudu cheers mate, ill keep this one in mind. Hopefully i can find something decent second hand though!
Do you change your lathe every year ? ;-)
Or it is just an occasion ?
Thanks for showing. Prices are very good in your country.
Thanks for showing
No, I keep the same one. It's just good to look around and see what the manufacturers come up with. Prices are very good here, particularly when you consider they haven't gone up in 10 years. Probably to do with AU /China exchange rate. Rob
your killing me with all that I candy I just bought a new 7/14 mini lathe for $ 599.00 than a nother $ 400.00 for all the fixings to go with it !!
The 7x14 are a great lathe for their size. Cheers Rob
Oh it's good to hear someone who is somewhat a subject of the crown of England use the word "inch" and not millimeter
a useless measure system. I use that shity system everyday and sucks ,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,
Thanks for the feedback. Could you please tell me the brand of this lathe?
It's a Paramount FL-610.
Thanks
Hi, I brought a cq6128 I found this video as I'm trying to get new belts for it, I don't have a sample is there any info you have? I emailed Paramount and they don't really wanna help. Specific to the timing belt on the motor. Cheers,
Hi Michell, normally Chinese lathes use standard sized toothed belts (for obvious reason). If you don't have a sample you will have to measure the drive pulleys to get the tooth spacing and size. Then run a strap or some string around the pulley path to get the length.
A drive belt or bearing supplier usually stocks all types of belts. It's also quite possible that belt is used on other machines, so enquire with other dealers once you have the measurements. Take a pulley with you to show them for a match.
A quick search shows this company in NZ may be able to help you. www.chevpac.co.nz/catalogue/page/gl-6128-spare-parts_SPA_S115_C317/lathe-cq6128-timer-belt_SPS200721?p=1
Send them an Email about suitability and availability.
Cheers Rob
@@Xynudu thank you, enjoying your channel, i watched your video before purchase of the lathe thanks for the walk thru of the lathe at Paramount (mines the same different branding), now to find my belts! cheers.
Hey mate your steering wheel is on the wrong side
Everything is reversed down under.
Hello, I am currently looking for lathes and researching on china, lookin for a 1.5 meter long lathe . But my question is if you recommend chinese lathes. Im looking at ones that cost bout $8k. with shippin to central america. Any help would greatly be appreciated.
Radigundo Custorio That is a lot of money for a 1.5 metre lathe. Chinese lathes are accurate, but quality may vary. Certainly there is no guarantee they are ready to use as delivered from the factory. They are however now widely used in industry, and for that sort of money you would expect a quality machine. I would require user references from existing buyers before placing an order. You could buy a top quality European lathe in excellent used condition for that sort of money. Unless you can identify a respected quality Chinese lathe maker, you are dealing with the unknown. That's as much as I can suggest on this subject. I hope that helps. Cheers Rob
I requested a manual for the 6128 from PB's but no response. Do you know what the range of settings are for the lower 2 knobs (A,B,C I, II, III) and the chuck mounting system? BTW, I rec'd a quote from the manufacturer in China for $1050USD including freight to Vancouver, Canada (no 4 jaw, steady or stand though)
Try this online manual: www.machinery-china.com/eWebEditor/UploadFile/200941594022938.pdf
Cheers Rob
Thanks, but there is no manual there, just a page with photo and specs.
Ooops - I didn't look past the first page.
Sorry about that.
From memory and in line with similar lathes I've seen, the two lower knobs select the feed speed.
One knob will have the three basic feed ratios (X - 2X - 4X) X being the finest feed gearing.
The other knob "Y" will then interact with the "X" gear selection to split/change the gearing again (not sure of the "Y" increments).
So when you look at the feed chart there will be three main columns for "X", down which will be listed the thread pitches and the "Y" selection necessary (plus the change gear settings in the drive enclosure - which may have to be altered for some uncommon pitches).
I hope that helps.
Cheers Rob
The chuck mounting system is a type of semi quick change type which uses a basic pin and locking bolt system.
I've not used this.
Cheers Rob
Thanks, I just want to be sure I will not need to change gears to achieve a practical range of fine, medium, coarse feed rates.. Do you know if the leadscrew has a slot that drives the power feed or does it use the half nuts?
Cuánto cuesta? Saludos 👍
Ahora más caro - $ 2800 AU
Are these all still basically SEIG lathes?
Hi im in Darwin and i was thinking of buying a optimum lathe can you comment on it and let me know what you think.
xynudu thanks Rob for the advice mate. Len
Hello, thanks for the information... I am currently looking at a small unit for home use. I can get a Myford Super7 in a good condition, not sure how much to offer the owner for it? or should i get one of these? Thanks
erick s The Myfords were great small lathes when new, but they are fairly light weight, and everything wears over time. Personally I would buy new, and the lathe in the video is quite good. Myfords are a bit over rated IMHO, and not what I would buy. It's a case of whatever rocks your boat. It's your choice, for whatever reasons. I have old and new lathes and both work well. Can't help you with this one. Rob
xynudu Thank you! Pity that your model isn't available any more...
erick s +1 on that. A friend had used a Myford and wasn't overly impressed. He bought a CQ9325 like mine, and then later was given a plain old 9" Hercus with no QCGB. He then sold the CQ9325. Go figure :) It's really a matter of what appeals to you. A bit like buying a car. Cheers Rob
xynudu I need a small accurate machine...max 160kg. Which machine should i look at??
erick s The Myford is a lot smaller than the lathe in the video. If the Myford is in good (not worn) condition and is cheapest then it would be ideal for your task. I won't advise on which to buy as there are too many unknows, even with new lathes - they can all have problems. Certainly, I would only buy a lathe that has a quick change gearbox. Cheers Rob.
Hi
I am looking for a lathe would this still be your first choose ?
Got any others you now like for around the same money?
cheers
Tunnelrat6666 Yes, still my first choice on a bang for buck basis. It's what I would buy. Consider smaller lathes as well if you are into model making. Of note: apparently the AL250g which looks to tick all the boxes, has problems and is not well made - reading owners comments in forums. Not much else new on the scene, and like all things it's a bit of a lottery on how well it's put together. Cheers Rob
xynudu WOW thanks for the fast response. I am looking at making bushings for my mountain bike forks out of 35mm round alloy and would like to have a crack at making some custom LED touches and I am sure a list of other stuff. Just always wanted one to play with back from my school days in metal work.
Not into small model stuff so really wanted as big as I could afford.
What is a good forums to help me work out all the tools and knowledge I am going to need.
Looks like its the FI-610 just need to work out how the hell I am going to get 258kgs off the truck and into my shed ?
thanks Will
Tunnelrat6666 Weight is an issue and often a deciding factor on what to buy. My CQ9325 is not as heavy as some, but still a handfull for one person. I made the stand for it, dynabolted it down, backed the tray top ute up to it in the shed, and slid the lathe from the tray onto the stand, one end at a time (bolting it down lightly where possible). Worked good. Regarding forums, there are plenty of good ones in Yahoo groups - eg. 10x22 Grizzly and 9x20 are both good. Also Woodwork Forum - Metal work section is good. Plenty of BS in forums from some members, but overall it's a good learning medium. Also an old but good book to read is Text Book of Turning by Hercus Lathes (free download): www.bbssystem.com/manuals/Lathe-Tutorial.pdf
Hello what is price of this metalic lathe
About $2000 AU.
Where did you get it from ?
+graham kaveman
Paramount Browns at Cavan, Adelaide, South Australia.
is this lathe still sold anywhere ? I couldn't find anyone selling it. I am in Canada though. Iv been having a hard time finding a good lathe
Hi Daniel,
This seems to be an Australian market model. I haven't seen it sold in this configuration anywhere else.
I notice a lot of new models are being brought into Australia lately (in 9 and 10 inch swing).
Looks like the Chinese manufacturers are finally breaking away from their long standing versions /formats.
This can only be a good thing, as some appear to be quite nicely configured and finished.
Cheers Rob
Hi again,
Just recently I looked again at this lathe and a slightly smaller Optimum model sold by another dealer, both for $1,999 on line.
This one still kills everything else stone dead IMHO "for the money".
It's noticeable that the price of this and all other new lathes in Australia has risen quite a bit over the years, for various reasons.
That's why I think the Chinese are trying to address the price factor with newer models.
Buying a lathe is like buying a car, lots to consider.
I hope you find what you want.
Cheers Rob
thanks for the help ! just found a old south bend , hopefully it cleans up nicely
OK. Hopefully it's not worn. A paint job does not bring a lathe back to spec.
Everything wears out eventually, no matter who makes it. Lathes are all basically made of the same stuff.
My Schaublin was a total cot case, so check carefully and thoroughly, or you will find that fixing any wear will be a major issue.
Good luck with your purchase.
Cheers Rob
I went to see it and the bed has lots of wear. Good thing I brought my dti. Good news though I found what seems to me the same lathe as yours. picked it up today, very dirty but almost in new condition other wise
Good on ya mate ;)
Hello, thanks for all the great information....another question....in the video you are showing the next step up lathe from the one you have.....is the lathe in the following link the same one?www.boltontool.com/Lathe/metal-lathe/10-x-22-high-precision-variable-speed-metal-lathe
or this one?
www.boltontool.com/Lathe/metal-lathe/12-x-24-gear-head-bench-lathe-cq9332
thanks for the help....just trying the best bang for the buck lathe in the USA.
Jean Weaver Hi Jean. No problem.
Neither of those lathes are the same as shown in the video.
The 10x22 is actually very similar in spec to my old CQ9325 and definitely the one I would chose of these two. It has continuously variable electronic speed control - nice.
The 12x24 is a larger lathe, but does not have a quick change gearbox for carriage feed. This is a big negative IMHO and I wouldn't buy it for that reason. I have had a close look at this lathe as it's sold in Oz as the AL240G and wasn't overly impressed.
The10x22 looks pretty good to me, and should do most things for home use.
Cheers Rob
Jean Weaver OOps, my bad. The 12x24 lathe is sold in Oz as the AL320G.
There is a lathe sold as the AL250G and although it looks very good on paper, it has some serious quality control issues, according to owners in Oz forums.
The quality of lathes out of Asia can vary between manufacturers, etc. It's a bit of a lottery as to how good the item will be when received.
But for the money they generally are pretty good.
Cheers Rob
that would be 3000$ now for something like that.
Currently $2,250.00. Still my best buy lathe.
Let me know if you want to sell me yours so you can upgrade😁
In just a hobyist and don't need the best one out there
I've no plans to change. Cheers Rob
That cross-slide thickness is so irrelevant in a lathe and especially when the topslide is bolted to it. In small lathes like these the forces are so small that getting that cross-slide to bend is pretty much impossible. And like I said, when the topslide is bolted to it, the stiffness skyrockets and it is like there never was any T-slots cut into it. Basic mechanics and structural engineering.
3:27 Gear you say well your in Adelaide ofc theres gear
Wow! Comes "pre-rusted" right off the showroom floor. That's weak to the max!
Unbelievable!
That's a display model that's been sitting there for years.
LOL. You get a new unrusted one in a crate when you buy.
Thought that would be pretty obvious.
I don't think this laid qualifies as a MINI lathe
What would you recommend in 2018?
The same lathe.
There have been lots of new arrivals (mostly smaller) since I shot that video, but on a bang for buck basis it is still the best value/most capable unit without getting too large and over my $2K limit.
However, many people want a smaller lathe of about 18" bed (like my CQ9325) so it all comes down to personal choice. There are lots of models that size to choose from. Features vary between them.
Cheers Rob
Thanks for the positive feed back. Yes, I'm in Adelaide.
Cheers Rob
$2550 now not $1700 😭
I just discovered that myself. It's a hell of a price hike
You must be getting sick of questions like this :) I'm in NZ. Have you had any experience with the Optimum TU-2506V (such as this one with mill combo: www.machineryhouse.co.nz/K146)? Heard anything good or bad?
Hi Peter,
The Optimum brand is supposedly German quality (made in China) and supposedly a cut above the rest.
I've looked at their lathes, and while nicely finished, don't appear to be significantly better than Seig or other offerings from Asia.
They do use a lot of die cast alloy for hand wheels and control levers, which I personally don't like, but that is quite a common practice these days.
I do know that the stand alone Optimum mill, which appears similar to that fitted on this lathe, is prone to gear failure in the drive head.
Apart from multiple postings in forums, I have had first hand notification of this from a purchaser in WA, who spent $2K on one and then had it fail big time. I believe the gears are fibre or plastic. The retailer refused to cover the repair.
You do have a recognised company to fall back on, but it's a matter of what their warranty covers, and how they judge "misuse" - as per the WA guy's situation.
I'm quite happy to answer questions, but I can only pass on factual information of what I know - which is quite limited in this case.
I've had no experience with mill on lathe configurations, but Emco and Seig have done this for years. It would be OK for light work I expect.
I hope this helps.
Cheers Rob
At NZ$3k (about the same in AU$) it seems like it's worth me checking out. $2.4k for just the lathe. I'll only be doing Aluminium stuff (I say that now...). Thanks for the info, I'll read up as much as I can, especially on the mill.
Hi Peter,
I was actually looking at their stand alone mill a while back, after seeing it in a few videos, and it seemed to cut quite well (steel) and wasn't too bulky. Looked nicely designed.
But then I had an email from the guy in WA about his, and saw some similar problems in forums, and passed on getting one.
Having said that, there are also quite a lot of comments from happy owners, but the idea of plastic gears doesn't inspire me much.
You can get steel gear kits for a lot of these small mills (which all seem to use poly gears) but that's just more hassle and expense.
I hope it all works out for you..
Cheers Rob
Thanks Rob. Very helpful!
Hi mate been looking at the same combo deal but not sure what lathe to buy asked a few machinist and they said it would be a great starting lathe but get is with 26mm bore at min . all the best
Rusted from the factory
No, just dust from standing in a dirty environment.