Yes, I too had ambitions to be a great welder, and also settled for being a good grinder...! I had the same reservations about getting a "pinch" on that joint between the upper and lower cowl panels, just below the windshield pinch weld. I did all of my trial fitting of cowl assembly, on the car as you did. Then welded that seam with the cowl off the car. I was able clamp it, and weld, then clean it up easily.
I’m just doing mine. Thanks for the effort sharing what you did. I also checked the cowl lined up with the hood and fenders. I put in new shock towers and frame rails so I took the extra precaution. Luckily it was ok.
Actually the lower cowl builds up with degree at the vents and that holds moisture for rust. The water just Does not leak into car from the vent lip you spoke of. People need to do is wash all those out periodically but they fail to do so being afraid they’re filling the car with water! Once these areas get filled up with leaves and sticks and dirt, that’s when they hold water in these little valleys in the middle starts to rust over time. These lower calves are sealed from the factory and do not leak on their own. It takes lots of years and lots of rot before they start leaking. But they do catch all the junk and stuff that gets in through the vent and there’s no way for it to get out. As it slowly builds up it cannot flow out of side. You don’t need to reseal this area as they will last a good twenty years or more. Straight from the factory.
I agree with washing and rinsing it out. And I can see how it would cause a little anxiety to flush tons of water down your cowl, but it should all drain out. Lord willing, mine will rarely ever see rain or leaves falling on it.
Very good video. I am in the same progress of implementing my cowl installation . Great job. I am using a flux core welder too. I will send pictures later in the mid-summer . I am located in
I've used a flux core welder for 25 years and it's been great. Lately I've been doing a lot of research on converting it to gas shielded partially because I'm sick of the spatter and clean up and partly because you can get thinner wire which requires less heat and therefore will make welding thin sheet metal easier. My next video is going to be about that.
And those hard to clamp areas on the corners and along the top of the cowl use one of those long C clamps if you're car is gutted out like this and you can go through the dash/glovebox/ speaker areas and get those to clamp tight. I'm not trying to sound like a know it all but I just did this repair recently and that's what worked for me. Just an idea for some. :)
Great idea to use a c-clamp in the middle of the dash. I didn't think of that. Comments and ideas like this are the major reason I started the channel. It helps me learn and hopefully helps others as well. Thanks for sharing!!
You mentioned it came primed. No. It’s actually an E coating. It appears that you didn’t wipe or sand the cowl when the spray paint went on- I saw fish eyes and imperfections from not prepping your cowl with thinner and at least using scotch bright green to scratch the e coating. Maybe you did. I hope so. Because if not your brush on sealer will even pull away from the cowl later on. Otherwise great job. 😂 again the vent pipes are sealed before they are spot welded together. No need to add seam sealer there. And if you do you need to watch that area so it actually sticks to the e coat.😊
Looks like a good job. I wonder why the alignment holes on the sides didn't completely align? Looks like the holes where the export brace bolts on align just fine. I'd be curious how the fender gaps look around the new cowl. Especially since you worked/moved the shock towers. Will the export brace drop right in? I'm thinking when I do my cowl, I'll mount the export brace to get the upper/lower cowls aligned , then drill the locating holes. I'm glad the upper cowl to cowl plug weld holes laid flush. I'm worried about that. No one in any other videos showed that the upper/lower cowls mated flush like that. How do you like that magnetic welding lamp you're using? I need something like that. You'll love the mig/gas.
I wouldn't rely on the mounting holes lining up on a reproduction piece. I've seen them off on cowls like this and bumper brackets that are welded onto the trunk floor. As long as the more important things line up those holes don't mean anything. And you can't see them anyway. The holes on the side anyway. My front holes didn't line up perfectly but I just wallowed them out so my braces or soon to be export brace bolts can go in.
How did the hood and fender gaps around the cowl turn out if the alignment holes didn't really align repro or not ? I've watched other video where tapered rods were used to align everything.
Thanks for the comment and questions. Originally I expected all the alignment holes to line up, right?? I mean they are all dynacorn pieces and it seemed totally reasonable to get them to all line up. But it was really hard to force the alignment pins in the holes and in order to get the pins to line up, everything was twisted and forced and there was so much tension. Finally I decided to ignore the alignment holes and just make sure everything laid down comfortably and was centered and square. Then it all fit together nice. My export brace will fit on just fine. It's all centered left to right, but front to back it is off about 1/4". So I may need to elongate the holes and weld them a bit. About getting the upper cowl to lay flush on the lower cowl, somebody else just commented about using a c-clamp through the radio speaker opening in the dash. That was a good idea. Overall I like the magnetic light. I bought extra batteries and a charger off Amazon. Sometimes they works great, occasionally they won't turn on or randomly turn off. I'd give them a b+ recommendation. I hope i love mig welding.
I tried using the taper rods (see comment to ddaytona1) but it wouldn't work. My gaps to the fenders are decent. The fenders, doors and hood all fit nicely. Ive test fit them several times. The curve of the fender against the cowl isn't perfect, so I will have to work on the curve on the fender. I think I will need to remove a couple spot welds on the fender and re-shape that curve.
@@3rdstallgarage The repo cowl is “correct” for 65. The 65 had a bezel that goes on the wiper shaft. I don’t know how it looks with or without the bezel. I have a ‘66 and haven’t gotten that far.
I did a lot of careful measuring to make sure it was centered to the windshield and the car. Then most of the front to back location was just getting it to sit flush to the windshield and firewall. I didn’t find the locating holes to be helpful even though the upper and lower were both dynacorn panels.
I used seam sealer around the large holes or vent stove pipes that stick up through the floor. The seams where the upper and lower cowls attach is spot welded and once its together there's not a good way to reach in and seam seal the inside of the seams. The water should flow down and out, so hopefully it won't be a poblem. So I used weld-thru primer. I will seam seal the outside of the seams before I paint it.
Mate.
I am so enjoying watching your videos on your Mustang restoration.
Keep em coming. 😎👍🏻👍🏻👍🏻
Thanks. Are you from England?
Thank you for your help, this videos are helping me a lot!!
Happy to hear that!
Yes, I too had ambitions to be a great welder, and also settled for being a good grinder...! I had the same reservations about getting a "pinch" on that joint between the upper and lower cowl panels, just below the windshield pinch weld. I did all of my trial fitting of cowl assembly, on the car as you did.
Then welded that seam with the cowl off the car. I was able clamp it, and weld, then clean it up easily.
sounds like that would work well. Nice thinking!
You Rock Daddy-O
PS, This is Sal Heredia ABQ
Thanks! ;)
Looking good!
Thanks!
Looks awesome!
Thanks. It's a nice feeling of accomplishment.
Very well done. : )
Thank you! I appreciate the encouragement.
“I tried to get good at welding, and what I got good at was grinding” eloquently said!!! Same here😂
Yup!
I’m just doing mine. Thanks for the effort sharing what you did. I also checked the cowl lined up with the hood and fenders. I put in new shock towers and frame rails so I took the extra precaution. Luckily it was ok.
Nice work!
THAT WAS A GREAT VIDEO
Thanks!!
Actually the lower cowl builds up with degree at the vents and that holds moisture for rust. The water just Does not leak into car from the vent lip you spoke of. People need to do is wash all those out periodically but they fail to do so being afraid they’re filling the car with water! Once these areas get filled up with leaves and sticks and dirt, that’s when they hold water in these little valleys in the middle starts to rust over time. These lower calves are sealed from the factory and do not leak on their own. It takes lots of years and lots of rot before they start leaking. But they do catch all the junk and stuff that gets in through the vent and there’s no way for it to get out. As it slowly builds up it cannot flow out of side. You don’t need to reseal this area as they will last a good twenty years or more. Straight from the factory.
I agree with washing and rinsing it out. And I can see how it would cause a little anxiety to flush tons of water down your cowl, but it should all drain out. Lord willing, mine will rarely ever see rain or leaves falling on it.
Very good video. I am in the same progress of implementing my cowl installation . Great job. I am using a flux core welder too. I will send pictures later in the mid-summer . I am located in
Georgia.
I've used a flux core welder for 25 years and it's been great. Lately I've been doing a lot of research on converting it to gas shielded partially because I'm sick of the spatter and clean up and partly because you can get thinner wire which requires less heat and therefore will make welding thin sheet metal easier. My next video is going to be about that.
Georgia? You should see if you are in the neighborhood of Jo Daddy. He's amazing at Mustangs and body work.
And those hard to clamp areas on the corners and along the top of the cowl use one of those long C clamps if you're car is gutted out like this and you can go through the dash/glovebox/ speaker areas and get those to clamp tight. I'm not trying to sound like a know it all but I just did this repair recently and that's what worked for me. Just an idea for some. :)
Great idea to use a c-clamp in the middle of the dash. I didn't think of that. Comments and ideas like this are the major reason I started the channel. It helps me learn and hopefully helps others as well. Thanks for sharing!!
You mentioned it came primed. No. It’s actually an E coating. It appears that you didn’t wipe or sand the cowl when the spray paint went on- I saw fish eyes and imperfections from not prepping your cowl with thinner and at least using scotch bright green to scratch the e coating. Maybe you did. I hope so. Because if not your brush on sealer will even pull away from the cowl later on. Otherwise great job. 😂 again the vent pipes are sealed before they are spot welded together. No need to add seam sealer there. And if you do you need to watch that area so it actually sticks to the e coat.😊
Thanks for the clarification. That will be helpful for other viewers.
Looks like a good job. I wonder why the alignment holes on the sides didn't completely align? Looks like the holes where the export brace bolts on align just fine. I'd be curious how the fender gaps look around the new cowl. Especially since you worked/moved the shock towers. Will the export brace drop right in? I'm thinking when I do my cowl, I'll mount the export brace to get the upper/lower cowls aligned , then drill the locating holes. I'm glad the upper cowl to cowl plug weld holes laid flush. I'm worried about that. No one in any other videos showed that the upper/lower cowls mated flush like that. How do you like that magnetic welding lamp you're using? I need something like that. You'll love the mig/gas.
I wouldn't rely on the mounting holes lining up on a reproduction piece. I've seen them off on cowls like this and bumper brackets that are welded onto the trunk floor. As long as the more important things line up those holes don't mean anything. And you can't see them anyway. The holes on the side anyway. My front holes didn't line up perfectly but I just wallowed them out so my braces or soon to be export brace bolts can go in.
How did the hood and fender gaps around the cowl turn out if the alignment holes didn't really align repro or not ? I've watched other video where tapered rods were used to align everything.
Thanks for the comment and questions. Originally I expected all the alignment holes to line up, right?? I mean they are all dynacorn pieces and it seemed totally reasonable to get them to all line up. But it was really hard to force the alignment pins in the holes and in order to get the pins to line up, everything was twisted and forced and there was so much tension. Finally I decided to ignore the alignment holes and just make sure everything laid down comfortably and was centered and square. Then it all fit together nice. My export brace will fit on just fine. It's all centered left to right, but front to back it is off about 1/4". So I may need to elongate the holes and weld them a bit. About getting the upper cowl to lay flush on the lower cowl, somebody else just commented about using a c-clamp through the radio speaker opening in the dash. That was a good idea. Overall I like the magnetic light. I bought extra batteries and a charger off Amazon. Sometimes they works great, occasionally they won't turn on or randomly turn off. I'd give them a b+ recommendation. I hope i love mig welding.
I tried using the taper rods (see comment to ddaytona1) but it wouldn't work. My gaps to the fenders are decent. The fenders, doors and hood all fit nicely. Ive test fit them several times. The curve of the fender against the cowl isn't perfect, so I will have to work on the curve on the fender. I think I will need to remove a couple spot welds on the fender and re-shape that curve.
Also, are you switching to ‘65 wiper bezels?
I haven’t learned anything about wiper bezels yet. What do you know or recommend?
@@3rdstallgarage The repo cowl is “correct” for 65. The 65 had a bezel that goes on the wiper shaft. I don’t know how it looks with or without the bezel. I have a ‘66 and haven’t gotten that far.
Did you take any measurements for the windshield to cowl placement?
I did a lot of careful measuring to make sure it was centered to the windshield and the car. Then most of the front to back location was just getting it to sit flush to the windshield and firewall. I didn’t find the locating holes to be helpful even though the upper and lower were both dynacorn panels.
@@3rdstallgarage That is what I’m gonna do too.
DID YOU USE ANY SEAM SEAL ON THE COWEL SEAMS BETWEEN THE UPPER AND LOWER PIECES ESPECIALLY IN THOSE CORNERS YOU HAD ISSUES WITH?
I used seam sealer around the large holes or vent stove pipes that stick up through the floor. The seams where the upper and lower cowls attach is spot welded and once its together there's not a good way to reach in and seam seal the inside of the seams. The water should flow down and out, so hopefully it won't be a poblem. So I used weld-thru primer. I will seam seal the outside of the seams before I paint it.