How To Replace Click-Lock Vinyl Flooring
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- Опубліковано 4 чер 2017
- Visit our website at www.mydiygenius.com.
Need to replace one of your Click-Lock Planks? There's no need to worry - replacing a plank is a quick and simple process. Follow the instructions in the video to replace your Click-Lock plank in just minutes!
To view other Allure Flooring videos, visit our channel: / @allureflooring
I’ve watched around 10 videos on the same subject and this is the best one.
Thankyou for this post! Very helpful!
Wow, all of that in less than 2 minutes! GREAT video! Thanks for the help!
have you tried this ?
@@Krpasava No. I was just checking to see if a repair like this was possible.
Super helpful. Thanks.
It's holding up great bro!☮✌🏻️
Thank god i found this specific video i was driving myself insane trying to replace a damn plank
Great help. Thank you!
👍👏👏👏
This is so much easier than I feared! Thank you so so so much!
did you manage alright>?
Did u changed LVp planks too using the video? Do u think I could use a dremel to cut plank out. I need to replace 3 in center of living g room
Nice video thanks learned something new.
Thank you for a fast, to the point explanation. This was very helpful
Its a rarity in the youtube world.
@ BM Your right bro. I have 12 boards to replace, but only have to glue one!👍🏻👍🏻👍🏻✌🏻️
@@alanross3435 How is it holding up?? My neighbor was saying you never ever want to glue them down and it's better to rip up the floor and redo it.
Celeste Boyce ,it's holding up great, only
had to glue one board!
@@celesteboyce1337it is key to only glue the tounge and groove, not too the floor, this way the boards that were swapped out will move accordingly with expansion as opposed to not moving at all with it being glued too the floor.
Thank you for this
Thank you for good idea 👍🇺🇸
Thank you , this video helps
i probably should have watched this first.
Your are a REAL MAN. Just do it. Ask questions later after if all goes wrong. P.S. I'm a real man and proud of it, and somehow my wife still loves me.
You and me both. Lol.. not I’m about to take boards off just to fix it
Hahaha ditto for sure...
🤣🤣🤣
I came to watch this first 😂 glad I did
Thank you for the help.
👏👏👏
Thanks, this is awesome.
OK...very helpful...we have a few in a row warped from sun, this is helpful.
Very well done
Used this today to change out a plank at home. Thank you.
What glue?
@dustinwilliams9046 I saw a video where a gentleman wetted the panels slightly and applied gorilla glue. I did the same last week, seems to be holding just fine
@rickspalding3047 I just used one of those small tube's of super glue. The advice of install the plank with no glue at first was helpful. Thank you for being helpful.
@@dustinwilliams9046 I used liquid nails - it's never coming off again.
For anyone wondering - you can get good super glue (cyanoacrylate) in larger quantities for less from the hobby stores.
Actually, hobby stores are MUCH more expensive than CA you can get at Home Depot or Lowe’s.
Yeah, if you get some of the “two part”glues that woodworkers use for glueing trim one of the bottles is super glue and the second bottle (usually a spray can, is the accelerator), it comes in larger bottles and much cheaper than at Home Depot or hobby stores.
Thank you.
life saver! thank you
Did you do this? How did it go? What kind of saw did you use?
@@adrianvalverde1636I would use a oscillating tool or scar the triangle 3 times atleast with a fresh point on the knife and use a chisel and hammer to break that scar line, it will follow the scar indefinitely
Thank you so much!!!
thank you, i will try tomorrow
The video says "remove the lock of the long and short edges of the surrounding planks" yet he's removing the lock from the replacement plank in the video, then as the video transitions to the install portion it says, "repair the replacement plank by removing the lock on the long and short sides" even though they just displayed this already. So are we removing the lock on the replacement plank only as shown in the video or are we removing the lock from the replacement and the planks on the floor as voiced in the video?
Good question. My guess is you remove the lock from both the surrounding planks and the new plank so that the new one fits. BUT I would try just removing the lock from the new plank, and see if it fits in snugly. If not, then also remove the lock from the surrounding planks.
That was awesome. Thank you.
I would dilute the acetone with mineral spirits as a buffer agent so as to not damage the surface. Acetone is a very powerful and fast acting solvent that dissolves/ melts whatever it touches.
ohh my God, very good
in the video he says remove the lock on surrounding pieces as well did anyone have to do that or just the piece getting changed?
Well.. Easiest way... 👌🏻
Very easy for me
Thank you. This video showed me enough of the technique that I was able to replace a number of planks in my kitchen..
👏👏👏
How is it holding up?? My neighbor was saying you never ever want to glue them down and it's better to rip up the floor and redo it.
Yeah your neighbors correct this is improper it’s click flooring you have to disassemble it and then reassemble it
@@user-jv4wu4kt1y it looks lime glue will hold it down alright?
Of course glue will hold it down but this kind of flooring is not meant to be glued down its click together flooring which frankly is very low quality either use real hardwood or even carpet if you want just m switch out the carpet Every 5 to 10 years I really dislike click flooring I think it sucks
I personally prefer carpet or hardwood except and maybe kitchens and bathrooms were you gotta go with tile for sure
Will a multi tool with a straight blade work? I don’t have one of those saws
Sweet
do you have any suggestions to fix creaky floor upstairs that have allure flooring on???
You would have to remove the flooring in the problem area and screw the sub floor
Would this method work using engineered wood flooring (not hardwood)? Also, because of all of my wood floor tiles being interlocked, would cutting out the 2 damaged pieces damage all of the wood floor tiles around it?
Long story short, my dad redid my floor in my room. He put sponge on top of the old floor and clicked all the pieces of new floor on the sponge. Would this method still work? Would I be able to glue the new pieces on the sponge instead of concrete? Can I hire a professional to do this for me because I'm not a handyman? I'd appreciate if you can answer my questions, thanks.
Yes it would, the vinyl plank in the video is also interlocking, same concept, just I would use a wood glue or PL adhesive for adhesion with engineerd/hardwood.
Is this easy as it looks
WWOOFing life saver
Do you cut the locks on the top & bottom of the new plank? And cut the locks on the surrounding boards the new plank will be touching?
Just what was shown in the video, nothing more.
is this for laminate or vinyl click
what kind of saw are you using?
Do we want a type of glue/adhesive that's not too strong in case we need to replace on of the planks that have the adhesive on it?
I might have to do this . I have a spot that has a low spot under the plank and i think its going to be a problem soon
Is there any way to pull up an undamaged plank so I can repair the subfloor under it?
I suppose this video would work just the same for an undamaged plank as well.
uh, even mentions lint-free wipes - nice touch :P
...I´m no handy man, but I´ll give this a try I think
Just need to find a pack of those damn planks
Any recomendations on the adhesive for this job?
So what is the clue to use
Cyanoacrylate adhesive.....AKA Super Glue
@@bassreaper7779 thank you
My vinyl tile recommends using cyanoacrylate adhesive if I ever lock the tile then have to pull it up. Is there a certain kind that is the best?
Industrial strength cyanoacrylate/super glue. It’s sets up fast like the original super glue used to, before they changed the formulation.
Do you think I could do this and possibly cut board smaller to fix a buckle?
These panels are an exact fit, if you cut them in half they will be to short. If the floor is buckled it is pinched somewhere. Cut around any cabinets that are installed on top of the floor and then trim cabinets with we quarter round.
If the floor relaxes and lays down then change a panel if needed
Does this work for buckling floor planks also? They are crowning at the seams.
Likely not. If it's a floating floor, be it vinyl or laminate, buckling generally occurs when sufficient spacing wasn't added around the entire perimeter of the floor. A floating floor needs about a 1/4" to 3/8" gap between the edge of the flooring and the walls. In cases where the baseboards are already installed, you leave a gap off of the baseboards and then use quarter round to cover the gap. The reason for this is the laminate/ vinyl needs room to expand. If there is not enough space for expansion, the flooring will expand until it makes contact with the wall and then continue to expand causing the flooring to buckle. This will also occur if any of the flooring is nailed or glued to the subfloor. If the floor is buckling along the long joints, go to the walls that run parallel to those joints. If there is quarter round, pull it loose from the walls and see if there is a gap between the flooring and the wall. If there is not and the flooring is jammed tight against the wall, even if its just a small area along the wall, then you have found the issue.
Yes you can swap out any damaged boards, if it is scratched or buckled really doesn't matter, you can start off by checking expansion, if the adequate amount was left on the perimeter the main culprit is cleaning materials and or rapid temperature changes.
@@jackblack9208 How does it expand/contract with heavy furniture on it?
Apply a scant bead of scieno acrylate adhesive.
Is it possible that this floor is crap? I rented a brand new appartment 5 days ago, the floor is all marked, I dont know what to do anymore. Is scrached, just moving a small box, left lines everywhere. I can see little holes, etc. Is it normal?
Extremely cheap home depot type flooring will do that... Bet the wear later is super thin as well. Horrible choice for a rental. Nissan wear and tear shouldn't be your responsibility.
What glue do you use . Was hard to hear what was suggested
Cyanoacrylate (sometimes abbreviated as CA), although this is more commonly known as super glue.
You can also use wood glue.
@@swargolet How is it holding up?? My neighbor was saying you never ever want to glue them down and it's better to rip up the floor and redo it. I've got the Lifeproof one.
Anyone know what kind of saw that was, can recommend something budget friendly?
Small circular saw would do it.
Will this work for laminate floor too ?
Laminate flooring is much thicker and isn't made of vinyl.
What type of CA adhesive did you use?
Did you ever get an answer you this question?
Does this work with a 'floating floor" that has soft vapor barrier underneath? Or will the movement on wear and tear make the glued end pop up?
Should be fine. An extra layer of adhesion would be a strip of double sided tap under the joints.
what type of glue do you use can you put the photo here please
Cut off all 4 sides??
I'm about to go have a chat with the company that installed my new vinyl plank flooring in my new house there are numerous screw pops in about half a dozen planks they said the whole floor is got to come up I see now that doesn't have to happen
What glue did you use to help hold the plank in place?
Super glue
What kind of saw did you use?
better than ripping a floor apart
Does this include Lifeproof flooring? It appears Allure makes Lifeproof...
yes. The company sent us this link in regards to our Lifeproof Flooring.
Life proof allure stick needs a heat gun, I've never done it before but I've been told heat gun works to release the stick
@@rickvenables7648 How is it holding up?? My neighbor was saying you never ever want to glue them down and it's better to rip up the floor and redo it.
@@jamesharder5107 heat gun for what?
@@celesteboyce1337 if you have peel and stick tile, you use a heat gone or a blow dryer to warm up the piece you want to remove and then peel it up.
Jay knowlton
Tried this. Didn’t have the same luck. Was a pain in the rear, and ended up breaking the piece next to it.
😂
What's the name of that saw they used in this video?
Not sure but a small circular saw would perform the same allowing blade depth adjust.
what is the adhesive mentioned in the video?
What kind of saw is that?
Edit: Roto-razer.
This saw is the dremel one
This is one of the reasons that I want to lay this type of flooring in my rental.
Be careful. Renters are hard on rental units. If they spill liquid onto laminate and don't clean it up right away, the boards can swell and look like crap. Also, you can't wet mop or scrub laminate like you can hardwood. In all seriousness, if you can afford a good hardwood floor that has a hard finish on top and won't chip {it can dent BUT if the finish is hard enough, you won't have the finish chipping off at all}, then lay hardwood. Depending on the renters you get, you might have to replace some or all of the laminate after they move out and I doubt the security deposit will cover that. Also, with real hardwood, you can charge a little more per month to make up for the hardwood over time. Just trying to help out, best wishes.
@@n.barrett4734 are you kidding me hardwood floor a rental NO THANKYOU, LVP is the only way to go it last up to 30 years and water proof unlike wood that swells when wet,also easy to replace sections ,lvp all the way for a rental
@@columbus400 I understand your points but god quality hardwood isn't that much more expensive, you can charge more for your rental unit because of it and can last 100 years. So it's 6 of one and half a dozen of another. Replace your rental floor every 15-20 years for "X" amount of dollars or replace the floor in 70 years for "Y" amount of dollars. It's anyone's guess as to which will be better financially depending on the tenants and floor installers.
@@n.barrett4734 one problem with your argument, this is vinyl not laminate.
@@n.barrett4734 Good think this isn't laminate then, huh?
Very Good!... #159 ✝ {8-21-2022}
What kind of adhesive?
Super glue.
Holy shit this is actually the same exact flooring I have.
wow lol easy peasy
What type of saw is that at the beginning?
What's the name of the kind of saw you used?
that would be a dremel sold at lowes...very handy saw...i love mine
@@toddharmon8654 thank you. Had to do this with just a multi tool and was nervous about cutting into the subfloor.
I know this is late but this is a mini circular saw. It appears to be a dremel name brand
What is the name of that saw?
what happens when i need to replace the piece i glued in?
You replace the 4-6 around it as well.
@@Buddy8 No, just use a circular saw and cut it out then glue a new board in with wood glue all around the edges.
@@n.barrett4734 wood glue on vinyl/stone?
@@vitaminb4869 For stone, "no", just use the same color grout the rest of the floor has and for vinyl, you have to call a company that sells that kind of flooring and ask them, I don't know.
@@n.barrett4734 can I use a dremel to cut around pergo vinyl plank?
Looks so easy. I'll give you 50 bucks if you come over and do it for me...lol
My bad my floor is not pergo is life proof LVP from homedepot
i dont understand when he says removing the lock on the long and short sides.
Me too!
The wood has a a groove on one side and a lip on the other so they lock together. You have to cut the lip or locks as he calls them off to slide the new piece in.
@@monkeyhed69 nooooo. don't cut the tongue off. if you look at the tongue you'll notice along the edge of it there is a small round ridge that runs the length of the tongue. that is what you have to remove. if you notice in the video, the guy is using a chisel and he is just shaving the round raised edge on the top side of the tongue he's not removing the entire tongue.
I use the cool glide seaming system to replace a plank. This way there is no glue required. Only thing set up time takes longer.
"Scant amount"....LOL
@00:56 removing the what on both sides?
HEY BROTHER, GREAT VIDEO, THANKS. DAMN MAN, IM GOING TO DOWNLOAD THIS VIDEO. I HAVE VERY EXPENSIVE FLOOR PANELS LIKE THIS. I HAVE PLENTY OF LEFTOVER PANELS, I DID NOT WANT TO THROW THEM AWAY FOR JUST THIS REASON. AT OUR CHURCH, WE VOLUNTEERS FLOOR PANELED A FEW ROOMS. WHEN WE WERE DONE, PASTOR WANTED TO SELL THE REMAINING BOX'S BACK TO THE STORE, I HID SEVERAL BOX'S JUST IN CASE. PASTOR IS ALWAYS LAUGHING AT SOME OF MY TACTICS, BUT HE KNOWS I HAVE REASONS.
Side it easy to snap it that one too hard to get it snap than snap side in
Really take off the locks and glue it in? Is this normal? What if there's an issue in the future with the glued plank
gonna have to rip up surrounding ones if if they get damaged since its glued. Once you fix one the glued ones are all a team now and youll have to replace all of them if one of those gets damaged.
@frankvaldez9700 that makes sense, I guess that's the best way to deal with locks. I completed the panel replacement last week, it worked well. I had to buy the multitool to complete it.
What kind of glue?
He said cyanoacrylate. I had to look that up. Turns out it's just super glue.
Does this fix last? I don't want my flooring coming up later and having to replace again when they no longer make it. Can anyone chime in?
Did you end up doing it? My neighbor was saying you never ever want to glue them down and it's better to rip up the floor and redo it.
@@celesteboyce1337 can you please explain why your neighbor said it was a bad idea?
@@celesteboyce1337 this is a long time later but he is correct about not gluing it to the ground underneath but gluing it to the other pieces is totally fine. The floor is a floating floor and needs to be able to expand and retract but doing this is totally fine
What kind of saw is that?
It is either a dremel ultra saw or saw max. Ultra has 4” blade and saw max has 3”. I have the ultra saw and it works great.
@@Tim.1113 Its neither of those, not even remotely close. Its a roto-razer
@@Tim.1113 you literally have the ultra saw, how are you going to say it looks anything like the one in the video..
@@chuck7879 Check out the colors of a roto razr and a dremel and then tell me which one it looks like. Unless both companies chose the same color scheme, it’s a dremel.
Wha glue did you use ? You talked to fast sorry.
That's right, everybody. He said SUPER GLUE the new panel in place. Super glue the fake plastic floor into your fake plastic barbie dream house. Then make dinner in your toy kitchen. Playing house is so fun when you're a kid!!
I am being told I need to replace it all. scam?
Yes sir whoever is telling you that doesn’t know this technique
Would be super helpful to tell us what kind of saw that even is, some of us have no experience with power tools.
Oscillation tool/ multi tool/ dremel
Who says "cyanoacrylate adhesive" instead of super glue?
because Super Glue is a brand. The difference in Tylenol and acetaminophen. They use the type of glue, not a brand-they don't recommend specific brands.
clic floors are crap, glue down vinyl do not break like this, repairing clic floors keeps me in business-so for that i'm grateful!
Agreed
Why not just take it out instead of cutting it so many times?
Because you end up breaking other boards tracks and shifting others out of lock.
I don’t know what kinda blades you all have but my brand new blade ain’t cutting this sh-
What locks are you talking about. Remove the locks.. its as if you're missing half the video.....
The flooring has a male and a female long side and a male and female end. The lock is the slightly raised section on the top outer edge of the female side and female end of the plank. The lock runs the entire length of the plank and the entire width of the plank on one end and is approximately 1/16" wide and 1/16" tall. It is very easy to remove with a mini-block plane or a chisel used the correct way. It is this lock that requires the planks to be locked together by placing them first at an angle to each other. With this tab removed the female edge is simply a flat surface. Without the locks, you can just drop the replacement piece in flat. The glue replaces the factory locks.
@@rambopierce uhh.... what?
@@twintailMedia
Here is a cross-section of a plank of flooring showing the female edge. I have marked the small ridge (the lock) in red.
drive.google.com/open?id=1ursPpK3f0jP0GNiBBgCkANYI9PO2aTEw
The cross-section is from the viewpoint of holding the plank at eye level parallel to the floor looking at the end of the plank. I do agree that I think he left off removing the lock from the plank that was already on the floor before installing the replacement plank next to it.
@@rambopierce Do you mean removing the lock ridges on just the replacement board, the locks on the remaining boards on the the floor, or all of them? That is the point I am unclear on. The video only shows you removing the numbs on the replacement board. Otherwise, great and helpful video. I have some low spot on the concrete subfloor that were just too sublte to see, so as a consequence some boards are depressed along the lock edges, so I need to remove, address the low spot, and replace. Alternatively, is there a resin I could inject through a small needle to push the board up?
@@johndeschamps1797 The video is not mine; I wish that was explained better as well. The lock edges, of course, are what hold the assembled planks together (normally), but on a replacement plank, we need to replace the lock edge(s) with glue. However, the lock edge is also what makes us have to tilt the plank at an angle to join the two planks properly together, with the locking edge(s) removed the planks will assemble flat without dropping in at an angle, but they won't stay together because the lock edge is gone which is where the glue comes in. Note we have the opportunity to do that tilt maneuver on both sides of the plank on the initial install, but when you have flooring already installed on both sides of the replacement plank you can't insert it at the required angle on both sides. Whether you have to remove the lock edge on one side or both depends on how much room you have to slide away the neighboring end pieces (and to do that you have to make or buy a special tool). If you have room and can slide away the neighboring end pieces enough you can drop one side of the replacement plank in at the required angle so the lock doesn't have to be removed on that side. I have seen one video of a guy who makes a hole and injects minimally expanding foam under the planks to correct soft spots.
I had to do this. I bought expensive calibamboo vinyl floors and I'm in shock with the poor quality. Avoid calibamboo at all cost! Horrible quality and the company/ customer service does not offer help!
I don’t understand how this works if he didn’t cut the tongue side which he did not show. Also this only would work if the subfloor is super flat so not all would be able to do this method. And also it’s vinyl plank rip it up and install properly in under 2 hrs stop this glue nonsense
This shit didn’t even work. The smaller lip doesn’t want to go under the under plank it just breaks it making things worse