I do this exact same thing. This was a revelation when I switched to mirrorless with my first fuji x100s as I could see the entire world in black and white. Made me much happier with the photos I took.
Same here. High Red focus peaking works insanely well in monochrome. Even in low light and super bright light. I use a lot of adapted manual vintage lenses, this is like a gift from God.
Funnily enough this is how - after much practice - I've developed the same approach - have found with landscapes that using the spot meter in B&W I can scan the area and then when in LR decide whether to keep as colour or retain the mono image. Great advice - thanks for posting.
still relevant. b/w + spot metering. i played with it for 15min looking down the street from my balcony. suddenly, i saw pools of light. i then saw bodies and long shadows. thanks for the effort and the sharing. i am an appreciative subscriber.
Hi...Thank you for your wonderful videos where you explain with examples and in details the photographic subjects i am about to buy my first Fuji XT3 camera and wanted to take street photography B&W, can you please show me the initial settings
I shoot about 80% B&W photography, so of course, I follow your same practices. Sometimes I'll use the color sims just for the hell of it, and to mix it up a bit, but not often. I agree with all of your points. Monochrome EVF rocks it. Also, if you use manual focus, vintage lenses as I often do, the red color 'focus peaking' is insanely good in monochrome, even in low light. Hell yeah, Go Fuji!
Awesome advice about techniques. And of course your photographs always bear out how extremely valuable your advice is. If someone has been doing it long enough or tries very hard then even with optical viewfinders on DSLRs you can train yourself to virtually ignore color and "see" in monochrome in your mind's eye. But those days (and photographers) are probably winding down. I definitely see a future filled with EVFs and instant feedback on that sort of thing.
Your GoPro shots remind me of a profile from the early 2000s of a Sports Illustrated Swimsuit photographer who shot with photos for the magazine with a disposable camera. I often remind myself of that when I start going to down a rabbit hole with gear. Of course, the SI photographer was supported by a crew and had professional lighting but It really is about the photographer more than the camera.
Interesting Kevin...got my x-t20 last Friday and put it in black and white and was totally blown away by the straight out images of my lass at the breakfast bar watching Netflix.The pictures were keepers without even trying. Doing a christening in October and for the first time will be toting the Fuji alongside my usual Nikon d700..it is a piece of kit which feels lovely in the hand. Great videos mate and keep those summers free..when they go to Uni you won't have regrets👍
have to say ive shot raw and jpeg for years ... but after 6 months of owning a fuji x camera i always shoot in b+w for the reason everything just becomes easier to work with! .... but will definitely try that back button focus/exposure combo ! .... thanks again kevin !
Shooting in black and white helped me a lot recently when I was doing a lifestyle shoot at night with gross orange streetlights. They were so ugly it was keeping me from taking shots, tho I def had to turn it back to color when I was shooting with window display neon. I need to shoot in black and white more tho, esp when colors not the most important part of the image
Great video, I tend to shoot street photography in monochrome for similar reasons. However, I didn't have the excellent ideas behind it like you have! Like the idea about the spot meter, it's a forgotten tool nowadays in my book - maybe I'll give it a dust off!
Brilliant. I almost didn't click on this video out of assumption/arrogance on what you might possible "regurgitate" from others. Thankfully I reminded myself how often my assumptions are wrong haha. New fan and subscriber. Thank you and I'm glad YT algorithm recommended you to me. Peace.
Great video again Kevin. I know what you mean about coming back to England with a bump - just back from a couple of weeks in Greece and straight back into it! I wish I'd known about the GoPro dome before I went though, that looks great. Keep up the good work..
Awesome tip. Never thought of trying it that way, though I own an optical view finder DSLR for now. I'm going to save up for an X-T3 since that camera is so awesome
Thank you for sharing Kevin! I like to shoot this way as well. Only i use the exposure compesation dial on the from of the camera to properly set the exposure. This way you do not have to guess and move your camera around for a better photometry setting.
Yep, you can, of course, use exposure compensation. However, exposure compensation is the user trying to override the exposure the camera is metering for. I personally prefer to use spot metering to get the precise exposure that the camera wants to create. That doesn't mean I don't use expcomp though - I'll use it when not in spot mode a bit, but never really when I'm spot metering.
Shooting in black and white also aids when shooting in manual mode using focus peaking. For those without perfect vision the focus peaking is much easier to see. In my case I use the high intensity yellow focus peaking setting.
Im been trying out shooting RAW in Black and White and though, as I mentioned, I own a DSLR, seeing the image in monochrome helped a lot for me to be able understand if I'm exposing the level I want when I review the photo without needing to see the histogram. Plus, it helps me see a lot easier if I'm in focus since I only use manual focus lenses
Wonderful, informative. I shoot in BW RAW as well and I get this question a lot! I believe a lot of what you said about light structure applies even with an optical vf experience. A tad different process in the moment but still a very helpful technique to understand your light better in the field. Cheers!
I am shooting in b&w mostly too. Is the best way for take photos by using focus peaking. I use capture one pro 11 for the development of my shots is much better than lightroom of my opinion. I love your videos, thanks a lot Kevin.
Great video as always Kevin. I use back button focusing on my XT2 and x100f, I was interested in the way you use AE then recompose. Could you please explain this further in a separate video? I find I lock focus then recompose not thinking about exposure, therefore many of my photos although having the subject placed where I want it the exposure is where I actually pressed the shutter button meaning many photos are under or over exposed. So, would I be right in saying you lock focus, find the light you want by moving camera around till you find the light suitable then lock the exposure at that point and finally recompose?
What are you on about mate? Learn to shoot 100% manual. Including manual focus. The cool thing about Fuji mirrorless, is that if you set ISO and set aperture manually, and just look through the EVF (Only chumps use touch screen or LCD), if you spin the SS dial, you will get perfect exposures to your liking.
With all due respect doesn’t solve the question of recomposing. Also shooting manual (which I do on times) is not always practical as you know. But thank you for reply.
Yep, you are right. I lock focus, get the exposure then recompose. That's the way I've shot for many many years. TBH, I very rarely shoot fully manually these days. I'll try and put something together in a future tutorial.
I’d say I shoot this way 90% of the time with my Fuji, certainly for personal work. There are times when I need to see how colours are contrasting in a composition so on each of my cameras I have a button mapped to change film simulations.
I've used this technique before as I agree it really helps to focus on composition and light rather than being attracted to colours (as a simple bod like me can be!). Another benefit is it you shoot in b/w but have focus peaking on red, makes it much faster. Great video as always. Love your work.
My fist photography course was black and white only. For the fact that I had to train my self to look for light in my pictures. I hadnt thought about keep shooting in rar + bnw. Color can be very distracting! Ill definitely give this a try!
i love shooting in black and white too Kevin with my Fuji X T10. especially in RAW even when in lightroom it changes the photos to colour. but i can always put the photos back to monochrome. it gives me more options to edit the raw file with the colour sliders.
Another tip would be that if you want to shoot jpeg only, select the bracket function so you get more than one image output from your shot. I have set my X100F up so my first image (and the image preview before I take my shot) is in Acros, second in Classic Chrome and third in Standard.
i have the x70, xt20, and xt1, and always shoot in film simulation bracketing, but have never been able to figure out how to get the monochrome one to show on the LCD. it's always a color profile. how do you do it?
I'm using back button autofocus on my X-T1. In single mode it works perfectly,but in continous mode it seems working much slower, than using the standard shutter button focus. Has anybody experienced the same issue?
Glad you had a good holiday and glad to see you back! I've been shooting like this since i read it on your website, real game changer for me! Quick questions, on my X-Pro2, i don't seem to get the EL indicator with the half press of the shutter, but I do on the X-T2. Did you use a X-T2 for the demonstration? Also, what is that icon top left with the letter W? I've never seen that before. Thanks again Kevin. I'm looking forward to Fujifilm announcements!
Hi Chris, that is the WCL indicator as I used the X100F for the demo. I don't have my X-Pro2 right now as I'm travelling today. However, I'm pretty sure it does - but if it doesn't, and the exposure is still locking (you can tell by simply moving the camera around) then you know it's working. Of course, this doesn't affect manual shooting mode.
What's the point of this method if you use auto iso or any other kind of more automated mode aka aperture or shutter priority? Even then camera usually sets correct exposure which looks good on most of the things.
I hope this makes it to you seeing as the video is old. But I was curious, I know you deliver primarily in b&w, but when you deliver color image, for you clients, do you feel the lack of white balance is an issue?
Love this. Kevin what do you set the EVF brightness to when shooting this way? I have been playing with different levels, but just not getting the one that works all the time if there is one. TY
I did it for a year to focus on light and composition. But then I realized I was missing on developing my eye for color. It's really good as a practice but for a limited time.
You can just choose any of the black and white film simulations. If you are shooting RAW - they will always be colour, but your EVF will show black and white.
Hi Kev, I know the video is a bit old now but I know you still use the same technique. I just need a clarification: when the situation is slow, I have no problem shooting with your spot metering technique, but when the subject is moving, I have some problems. When the subject is moving and it's moving towards you I guess you are in AF-C (end of ceremony for example)? If so, are you also in spot metering? Or for fast moving situations you switch to another metering mode ? Thanks a lot
Another great video Kevin. Has anyone here recently switch from Canon to Fuji and want to share their experience? I currently use a 5D mk iv and am thinking about switching to the XT-2 (or XT-3).
In regards to Dynamic range i dont think you'll see much of difference if at all, Canon sensors isn't all that great when compared to Nikon and Sony but i feel is on a par with fuji. But you will maybe noticed is a little more is noise in your shots i dont but some do. I find focusing on the new fuji's to on a par and with anything take a little time to get used to.There well be other aspects to full frame you may miss but that really depends on how much of a bokeh chaser you are. I d say go to DP review and download some of the sample raws (fuji) and see if you like the way the files work and look. and then go to a store and see how the camera handles. An XT2/3 might be a big jump in size you, you may prefer the XH1 in this regard.
Hi Kevin, just revisiting this video. Are you actually using AE lock in a given space and the just using focus recompose? I notice the focus point won't move on my X-T1 when AE is locked. Wondering if this changed on the T2 or T3? Also, I'm wondering what % of the time you'd say you are in focus recompose vs moving the focus point. As someone who primarily shoots portraits (and rarely events), I'm always in manual mode and moving the focal point at 56mm and above, but your video has inspired me to try your technique (AE and recompose w/b&w preset) at wider focal lengths for environmental portraits.
Do you use a standard Acros film simulation with no modification for highlights, shadows, etc? This is a very interesting concept and I’ll have to give it a go.
@@kevin_mullins Great thanks. I have dabbled a bit in spot metering like you describe here (and talk about on Fujicast often (only up to episode 53)). Very cool look.... thanks!
I agree wholeheartedly! Aesthetically, I am always aiming for BW, and a good shot to me is one that works in BW. If my wife says "to bad you didn't shoot that in color", I know it's not a good shot.
Hi Kevin, thanx for the video. As i was watching is was distracted by the photo's on the wall. The seam to float of the wall since i see shadows around them. Are they printed on paper or on something like dibond? And how are the attatched to the wall? Don't see any strings.
These are the pictures that were in my exhibition in Tokyo. They were put together by the team there. For hanging, I use simple velcro strips and it works very very well.
A black and white sensor doesn’t have colour filters on it. It’s not looking for red , green or blue light, it’s just looking for light. Every pixel on the sensor is just looking for light rather than a particular wavelength of light. The theory is that you get sharper images and better low light performance with a black and white sensor, at the trade off of losing colour information. For most people this won’t be worth the trade, but chances are if you know you want a monochrome sensor then you’ll know why. Leica make a pretty well known black and white camera called the M10 Monochrom. I’m sure there’s a ton of stuff about it on UA-cam, but it ain’t cheap to buy!
I do the same, but don't meter as such - I just set exposure based on what I see in the viewfinder. How do you use spot-metering? Do you just meter off something that you want to render mid-grey, or do you meter of something else (white dress / black suit / skin) and adjust accordingly.
It really depends. I tend to meter off a brighter area in order to make the darker areas a bit more moody. I do have the histogram on but because it’s an evf I pretty much go on what I see.
If I were to film a movie in black a white, would I still need RAW? Could I get the look I wanted straight out of the camera with the right kind of lighting?
PLEASE ADVISE: i found a fuji xpro 1 with 23mm 1.4 and 3 batteries for 800 usd.. is it a good deal ? ( i shoots street mainly and some portraits) i already have a ricoh gr and a sony a6300 (for video).. i have no experience with fuji but the results got me interested!! thanks!
I do this exact same thing. This was a revelation when I switched to mirrorless with my first fuji x100s as I could see the entire world in black and white. Made me much happier with the photos I took.
This is brilliant, I shoot with manual focus lenses a lot and the focus peaking works better for me in B&W
Same here. High Red focus peaking works insanely well in monochrome. Even in low light and super bright light. I use a lot of adapted manual vintage lenses, this is like a gift from God.
Exactly 🤗
Funnily enough this is how - after much practice - I've developed the same approach - have found with landscapes that using the spot meter in B&W I can scan the area and then when in LR decide whether to keep as colour or retain the mono image. Great advice - thanks for posting.
still relevant. b/w + spot metering. i played with it for 15min looking down the street from my balcony. suddenly, i saw pools of light. i then saw bodies and long shadows. thanks for the effort and the sharing. i am an appreciative subscriber.
Ansel Adams would have killed for having a camera with a real BW preview. Thanks for another great video.
Hi...Thank you for your wonderful videos where you explain with examples and in details the photographic subjects
i am about to buy my first Fuji XT3 camera and wanted to take street photography B&W, can you please show me the initial settings
I use this so much. Really helps eliminate the distractions of a scene especially at a wedding.
I shoot about 80% B&W photography, so of course, I follow your same practices. Sometimes I'll use the color sims just for the hell of it, and to mix it up a bit, but not often. I agree with all of your points. Monochrome EVF rocks it. Also, if you use manual focus, vintage lenses as I often do, the red color 'focus peaking' is insanely good in monochrome, even in low light. Hell yeah, Go Fuji!
Awesome advice about techniques. And of course your photographs always bear out how extremely valuable your advice is.
If someone has been doing it long enough or tries very hard then even with optical viewfinders on DSLRs you can train yourself to virtually ignore color and "see" in monochrome in your mind's eye.
But those days (and photographers) are probably winding down. I definitely see a future filled with EVFs and instant feedback on that sort of thing.
Starting my B&W journey with film and I’m happy I stumbled upon your advice. Your pictures are amazing!
Thank you, Jaymes.
i love black and white photography
there is something romantic about it
really enjoyed watching this
thanks so much for sharing this with us
I love your videos and very much look forward to them! Thanks Kevin.
I'm going to give this a go. Love the shot of your son with his goggles on.
Thank you for the tips on focus and exposure lock. It's quite fascinating.
Great tip on the AF/AE Lock, thanks for that, off to update my X100f right now...
Your GoPro shots remind me of a profile from the early 2000s of a Sports Illustrated Swimsuit photographer who shot with photos for the magazine with a disposable camera. I often remind myself of that when I start going to down a rabbit hole with gear. Of course, the SI photographer was supported by a crew and had professional lighting but It really is about the photographer more than the camera.
Yes, absolutely.
Interesting Kevin...got my x-t20 last Friday and put it in black and white and was totally blown away by the straight out images of my lass at the breakfast bar watching Netflix.The pictures were keepers without even trying.
Doing a christening in October and for the first time will be toting the Fuji alongside my usual Nikon d700..it is a piece of kit which feels lovely in the hand.
Great videos mate and keep those summers free..when they go to Uni you won't have regrets👍
Thanks, Mark. Uni seems like a long way away but it it's going so fast.
have to say ive shot raw and jpeg for years ... but after 6 months of owning a fuji x camera i always shoot in b+w for the reason everything just becomes easier to work with! .... but will definitely try that back button focus/exposure combo ! .... thanks again kevin !
Shooting in black and white helped me a lot recently when I was doing a lifestyle shoot at night with gross orange streetlights. They were so ugly it was keeping me from taking shots, tho I def had to turn it back to color when I was shooting with window display neon. I need to shoot in black and white more tho, esp when colors not the most important part of the image
You're giving yourself great advice mate. ;-) I shoot about 80% B&W. Nothing quite like it.
Thanks Kevin. Love your editing style. Nice to see more about how you edit your awesome images. In color and BW👌
I use this technic from the very begining and also with DSLRs, as BW image also on image review are god to see the light.
Absolutely, but being able to see in black and white whilst shooting steps it up a level for me.
Thank you, sir, for this great advice! I haven't think of it that way until now.
Thank you.
Great info and very well presented, as usual. Thank you
Great video, I tend to shoot street photography in monochrome for similar reasons. However, I didn't have the excellent ideas behind it like you have! Like the idea about the spot meter, it's a forgotten tool nowadays in my book - maybe I'll give it a dust off!
Brilliant. I almost didn't click on this video out of assumption/arrogance on what you might possible "regurgitate" from others. Thankfully I reminded myself how often my assumptions are wrong haha. New fan and subscriber. Thank you and I'm glad YT algorithm recommended you to me. Peace.
Thank you.
I definitely should try this technique. Thanks 🤝
Great idea. I will try this
Great advices as always. One of a very channels I get truly excited for when I see a post!
Thank you :-)
I do the same, always use Acros-G for shooting. great tip.
Wow amazing tip, I will surely incorporate this in my shoot. Cheers mate👍
Glad it was helpful.
@@kevin_mullins Take care & stay safe ⭐ My sincere prayers & wishes 🙏
Great video again Kevin. I know what you mean about coming back to England with a bump - just back from a couple of weeks in Greece and straight back into it! I wish I'd known about the GoPro dome before I went though, that looks great. Keep up the good work..
Awesome tip. Never thought of trying it that way, though I own an optical view finder DSLR for now. I'm going to save up for an X-T3 since that camera is so awesome
Thank you. I am turning all my evfs to B&W.
great tip, i also prefer to shoot in b&w most of the time. also helps with focus peaking to see the colored highlighted edges better against b&w.
Thank you for sharing Kevin! I like to shoot this way as well. Only i use the exposure compesation dial on the from of the camera to properly set the exposure. This way you do not have to guess and move your camera around for a better photometry setting.
Yep, you can, of course, use exposure compensation. However, exposure compensation is the user trying to override the exposure the camera is metering for. I personally prefer to use spot metering to get the precise exposure that the camera wants to create. That doesn't mean I don't use expcomp though - I'll use it when not in spot mode a bit, but never really when I'm spot metering.
Shooting in black and white also aids when shooting in manual mode using focus peaking. For those without perfect vision the focus peaking is much easier to see. In my case I use the high intensity yellow focus peaking setting.
Lovely images! I've heard of people doing this before but this was with an optical viewfinder. Makes even more sense with an EVF!
Yes, EVF makes it a LOT easier :-)
Im been trying out shooting RAW in Black and White and though, as I mentioned, I own a DSLR, seeing the image in monochrome helped a lot for me to be able understand if I'm exposing the level I want when I review the photo without needing to see the histogram. Plus, it helps me see a lot easier if I'm in focus since I only use manual focus lenses
Nice, practical video - thanks Kevin!
Thanks, Tyler
Great advice, thank you sir. Waiting for more video like this in near future. Happy shooting sir!
Missed your vids Kevin. Great insight and amazing pics. My Fuji XT-2 is permanently on acros + g.
Thank you. Hopefully some pretty exciting videos coming soon :-)
Wonderful, informative. I shoot in BW RAW as well and I get this question a lot! I believe a lot of what you said about light structure applies even with an optical vf experience. A tad different process in the moment but still a very helpful technique to understand your light better in the field. Cheers!
As always - great. Got 2-3 absulute favorites when it comes to photo inspiration, you are one of them :-)
Thank you :-)
I am shooting in b&w mostly too. Is the best way for take photos by using focus peaking.
I use capture one pro 11 for the development of my shots is much better than lightroom of my opinion.
I love your videos, thanks a lot Kevin.
Thanks, Roland. I like the processing of C1 but from a workflow point of view, it is really bad. Especially for us wedding photographers.
Was listening to you on the Fujilove podcast today. Really interesting. I respect your views and style and find it inspiring. Thank you sir.
Thanks Seth!
Just came across your video. Brilliant, cheers
Thank you.
Great video as always Kevin. I use back button focusing on my XT2 and x100f, I was interested in the way you use AE then recompose. Could you please explain this further in a separate video? I find I lock focus then recompose not thinking about exposure, therefore many of my photos although having the subject placed where I want it the exposure is where I actually pressed the shutter button meaning many photos are under or over exposed.
So, would I be right in saying you lock focus, find the light you want by moving camera around till you find the light suitable then lock the exposure at that point and finally recompose?
What are you on about mate? Learn to shoot 100% manual. Including manual focus. The cool thing about Fuji mirrorless, is that if you set ISO and set aperture manually, and just look through the EVF (Only chumps use touch screen or LCD), if you spin the SS dial, you will get perfect exposures to your liking.
With all due respect doesn’t solve the question of recomposing. Also shooting manual (which I do on times) is not always practical as you know. But thank you for reply.
Yep, you are right. I lock focus, get the exposure then recompose. That's the way I've shot for many many years.
TBH, I very rarely shoot fully manually these days. I'll try and put something together in a future tutorial.
Kevin Mullins +1 for a video on your focus / AE Lock techniques ! Love your work.
+1 👋
1000% true, wise words, thanks for sharing
Thank you.
Nice one Kev, always interesting to here how you work.
I’d say I shoot this way 90% of the time with my Fuji, certainly for personal work. There are times when I need to see how colours are contrasting in a composition so on each of my cameras I have a button mapped to change film simulations.
Love some black and white night shots.
I have the X-T20 with the 23mm f/2, for my night photos project. It has been a blast (@the_night_camera)
Great informative video as alway Kevin....
Very useful information.
Great work, man! Happy to subscribe!
I've used this technique before as I agree it really helps to focus on composition and light rather than being attracted to colours (as a simple bod like me can be!).
Another benefit is it you shoot in b/w but have focus peaking on red, makes it much faster.
Great video as always. Love your work.
Yea, I meant to mention the focus peaking (which is set in the video). Red works much better for me too.
What's really amazing here is seeing a tanned Welshman ! ;-) (Or is that just the colour grading ?)
Ha. I know, it’s pretty rare but when we escape from the homeland we can sometimes find sun :-)
That is not from sun. Coal miner dust.
If only the coal mines were still open .... :-)
Kevin, Hoping to meet you at Photokina. Thank you so much for your inspiring videos :) (Y)
It would be great to catch up in Germany.
My fist photography course was black and white only. For the fact that I had to train my self to look for light in my pictures. I hadnt thought about keep shooting in rar + bnw. Color can be very distracting! Ill definitely give this a try!
Took me years to figure this out. Spot metering is the key to this technique. Excellent!
Glad it helped!
Well Explained, Thanks a lot.
Thanks, I'm going to give it a go.
Wonderful video great shot
i love shooting in black and white too Kevin with my Fuji X T10. especially in RAW even when in lightroom it changes the photos to colour. but i can always put the photos back to monochrome. it gives me more options to edit the raw file with the colour sliders.
Will try it
Hi Kevin great video and perfect sense. Sadly I don’t have my Fuji’s anymore due to a nerve condition 😟
That's a shame Mark. Hope all is well.
I now use a Sony RX100 mk6 just casually given up my website and weddings Kevin
Excellent Shots.
I am the same way. My reason for shooting B/W cause Color is distracting while Monochrome makes me think about capturing the moment
Another tip would be that if you want to shoot jpeg only, select the bracket function so you get more than one image output from your shot. I have set my X100F up so my first image (and the image preview before I take my shot) is in Acros, second in Classic Chrome and third in Standard.
i have the x70, xt20, and xt1, and always shoot in film simulation bracketing, but have never been able to figure out how to get the monochrome one to show on the LCD. it's always a color profile. how do you do it?
I'm using back button autofocus on my X-T1. In single mode it works perfectly,but in continous mode it seems working much slower, than using the standard shutter button focus. Has anybody experienced the same issue?
X-T1 in Continous was never as quick. You can try setting the focus priority for AF-C to release instead of focus.
Glad you had a good holiday and glad to see you back! I've been shooting like this since i read it on your website, real game changer for me! Quick questions, on my X-Pro2, i don't seem to get the EL indicator with the half press of the shutter, but I do on the X-T2. Did you use a X-T2 for the demonstration? Also, what is that icon top left with the letter W? I've never seen that before. Thanks again Kevin. I'm looking forward to Fujifilm announcements!
Hi Chris, that is the WCL indicator as I used the X100F for the demo. I don't have my X-Pro2 right now as I'm travelling today. However, I'm pretty sure it does - but if it doesn't, and the exposure is still locking (you can tell by simply moving the camera around) then you know it's working. Of course, this doesn't affect manual shooting mode.
@@kevin_mullinsThanks Kevin!
Great advise & video.
What's the point of this method if you use auto iso or any other kind of more automated mode aka aperture or shutter priority? Even then camera usually sets correct exposure which looks good on most of the things.
Very interesting, il give this a go!
I hope this makes it to you seeing as the video is old. But I was curious, I know you deliver primarily in b&w, but when you deliver color image, for you clients, do you feel the lack of white balance is an issue?
Great video Kevin, and glad you had a lovely holiday with your family. What's your preferred Fuji B&W film simulation for this technique ?
Almost always Acros
Acros with or without a filter ( R, Y or G ) ?
First time viewer. Like! Thinking about picking up a Fuji camera for street shooting.
Thanks, William. Glad you like the channel.
That's something I always do with my Fujis'!!!
Love this. Kevin what do you set the EVF brightness to when shooting this way? I have been playing with different levels, but just not getting the one that works all the time if there is one. TY
I did it for a year to focus on light and composition. But then I realized I was missing on developing my eye for color. It's really good as a practice but for a limited time.
Of course, if you are looking at the colour I totally agree.
Nice video and I like the idea to shoot in BW. How to set the camera in BW?
You can just choose any of the black and white film simulations. If you are shooting RAW - they will always be colour, but your EVF will show black and white.
thanks for the vid, going to try this on my Sony a7ii
Did it work?
Hi Kev, I know the video is a bit old now but I know you still use the same technique. I just need a clarification: when the situation is slow, I have no problem shooting with your spot metering technique, but when the subject is moving, I have some problems.
When the subject is moving and it's moving towards you I guess you are in AF-C (end of ceremony for example)? If so, are you also in spot metering? Or for fast moving situations you switch to another metering mode ?
Thanks a lot
Can someone explain the AEL and Focus lock trick and what Kevin meant by back of camera focusing? I got a bit lost trying to follow that?
Thanks Kevin do you convert to DNG on importing?
Another great video Kevin. Has anyone here recently switch from Canon to Fuji and want to share their experience? I currently use a 5D mk iv and am thinking about switching to the XT-2 (or XT-3).
Thanks Zachary. I switched from Canon to Fujifilm back in 2012. You can see lots of the experience, and stories, over at my site: f16.click
In regards to Dynamic range i dont think you'll see much of difference if at all, Canon sensors isn't all that great when compared to Nikon and Sony but i feel is on a par with fuji. But you will maybe noticed is a little more is noise in your shots i dont but some do. I find focusing on the new fuji's to on a par and with anything take a little time to get used to.There well be other aspects to full frame you may miss but that really depends on how much of a bokeh chaser you are. I d say go to DP review and download some of the sample raws (fuji) and see if you like the way the files work and look. and then go to a store and see how the camera handles. An XT2/3 might be a big jump in size you, you may prefer the XH1 in this regard.
I switched from 5D IV to X-T2 and love it. I mainly do portrait work
Hi Kevin, just revisiting this video. Are you actually using AE lock in a given space and the just using focus recompose? I notice the focus point won't move on my X-T1 when AE is locked. Wondering if this changed on the T2 or T3?
Also, I'm wondering what % of the time you'd say you are in focus recompose vs moving the focus point. As someone who primarily shoots portraits (and rarely events), I'm always in manual mode and moving the focal point at 56mm and above, but your video has inspired me to try your technique (AE and recompose w/b&w preset) at wider focal lengths for environmental portraits.
I don't move the focus point at all. It's always focused and recompose. I can't remember the last time I moved the focus point (honestly).
@@kevin_mullins thanks!
Thank you for sharing. I noticed your images are TIFFs in Lightroom not RAFs. Is this an export from photo mechanic or another step? Thanks
Yup, anything that either goes into PS or ASE I bring back as tiffs for more image quality.
Kevin Mullins Thank you.
What type of lens hood youre using in this camera?
Do you use the Martin Parr custom setting in Acros?
Do you use a standard Acros film simulation with no modification for highlights, shadows, etc? This is a very interesting concept and I’ll have to give it a go.
When I'm shooting just for the view of B&W in RAW I don't add any shadows or highlights. But spot metering will help with seeing the light more, too.
@@kevin_mullins Great thanks. I have dabbled a bit in spot metering like you describe here (and talk about on Fujicast often (only up to episode 53)). Very cool look.... thanks!
For a true Fuji B&W sensor, if you have the money and import isn't a problem, check out maxmax.com . They do B&W conversions on Fuji cameras.
I agree wholeheartedly! Aesthetically, I am always aiming for BW, and a good shot to me is one that works in BW. If my wife says "to bad you didn't shoot that in color", I know it's not a good shot.
Hi Kevin, thanx for the video. As i was watching is was distracted by the photo's on the wall. The seam to float of the wall since i see shadows around them. Are they printed on paper or on something like dibond? And how are the attatched to the wall? Don't see any strings.
These are the pictures that were in my exhibition in Tokyo. They were put together by the team there. For hanging, I use simple velcro strips and it works very very well.
@@kevin_mullins thanx for answering. I'll have a look at such strings.
Nice one Kev!
hi Kevin, what does the black & white sensor mean? what is the physics of it? Or what b&w photography is? thank you.
A black and white sensor doesn’t have colour filters on it. It’s not looking for red , green or blue light, it’s just looking for light. Every pixel on the sensor is just looking for light rather than a particular wavelength of light.
The theory is that you get sharper images and better low light performance with a black and white sensor, at the trade off of losing colour information. For most people this won’t be worth the trade, but chances are if you know you want a monochrome sensor then you’ll know why.
Leica make a pretty well known black and white camera called the M10 Monochrom. I’m sure there’s a ton of stuff about it on UA-cam, but it ain’t cheap to buy!
great video
Hello Kevin. Can I ask how you have printed and mounted the pictures on the wall behind you? thanks
They were actually printed by Fujifilm for an exhibition of my work in Tokyo. They are mounted using 3m velcro strips.
I do the same, but don't meter as such - I just set exposure based on what I see in the viewfinder.
How do you use spot-metering? Do you just meter off something that you want to render mid-grey, or do you meter of something else (white dress / black suit / skin) and adjust accordingly.
It really depends. I tend to meter off a brighter area in order to make the darker areas a bit more moody. I do have the histogram on but because it’s an evf I pretty much go on what I see.
Thanks Kevin
If I were to film a movie in black a white, would I still need RAW? Could I get the look I wanted straight out of the camera with the right kind of lighting?
Filming is a different thing entirely. You can shoot film in black and white but if you want RAW Footage you would need to record FLog too.
PLEASE ADVISE: i found a fuji xpro 1 with 23mm 1.4 and 3 batteries for 800 usd.. is it a good deal ? ( i shoots street mainly and some portraits)
i already have a ricoh gr and a sony a6300 (for video).. i have no experience with fuji but the results got me interested!! thanks!
It's a great deal... the 23mm 1.4 alone is more than that.
Awesome…