Who would have thought? More power from different brands. Cant wait to hear more about OneShot125. I love it, but would like to learn more about how and why it does what it does. thanks Bruce.
Good video Bruce. I have found it the Hard way (flying in the field). I used ZTW, Hobbywing, OFM MOSK Custom ESCs and with ZTW i always had low power on motors. that kept me wondering whats going on. Switched to Hobbying 10A and it was better power than ZTW 12A. used OFM MOSK 12A (our own OEM ESCs) and it was even better. Great video. keep educating us bro
You don't really notice a difference until you start going 2 bigger scale .20 size and up where the ESC does make a difference. An example on the FMS super Cub with the stock ESC 45a and a .32 size brushless motor. Swinging a 12 x 7 prop on 4S even though the combo did not get hot even when I put a 13 x 6 prop I was only able to get 670 Watts change the ESC to a hobbywing 60 amp I was able to get 898 Watts that's what significant difference. And your system ran really cool. So basically I was able to hover my cub with just a prop change and ESC change. Don't know weather that's coincidental or something is happening there. But it did work. Never worked with smaller scale unless it was two different brand ESC's and the build quality was different. You never followed up with another video.
Bruce, noticed that the starting battery voltage was progressively lower for each test. Maybe re-test with the battery at the same starting voltage for each one?
Hi Bruce, I'm a big fan of yours, and speaking of fans, I wonder if at some point, you could treat your loyal followers to a comprehensive appraisal of the performance of budget propellers, when compared to the more expensive ones with a common battery/ESC/motor? I have run numerous tests of my own, with some wildly varying results. I can't always get anything like the published thrust, watts, or amp draw for a given motor with the cheaper typically Chinese propellers, but that isn't always the case. The performance of some of the more rigid ones when properly balanced, doesn't fall far short of the more expensive ones. Then of course, there's maximum rotational speed to consider. Some motors will rev the prop too high and they don't like it at all, vibrating and doing all manner of weird things. When attached to a prop-saver, some of those cheapo orange things have a nasty habit of flying off altogether, even when balanced. A video giving your own take on this matter would be greatly appreciated by the wider modelling fraternity. Regards Tad Davison UK
Very important question I wish Bruce would address: Do ESCs prevent current from being more than rated? Do some ESCs do that? Is there some warning besides putting your finger on the heat sink that the motor is too big? Do some ESCs fail gracefully?
Coming from hobby electronics these's probably very few ESCs that have thermal protection simply because it adds complexity and thus unavoidably cost. On some of the more expensive ones maybe, but the way a parallel circuit of MOSFETs fail makes it very hard to compensate for. When one MOSFET goes past its limit it enters a process commonly referred to as a "thermal runaway". When this happens the conducting elements have gotten so hot that their efficiency has dropped significantly and in turn produce more heat while passing less current. Meanwhile it it also unable to dissapate this excess thermal energy and as such a negative feedback loop is created. The conducting material will then reach its melting point (often, but not always, igniting the plastic hull of the MOSFET) and in one way or another assume a permanent state where heat is no longer produced, which is to not conduct between the switched terminals at all. Once this process is completed, the load on the remaining parallel MOSFETs will have increased since there are fewer paths for the current to take. This in turn will cause the next MOSFET to overheat, restarting the process again until all MOSFETs have burned out. You can imagine this as two tanks of water. One is above the other (a voltage difference) with filtered rusty pipes going between them. When the water is moving too fast (current is too high), pieces of rust start dislodging from inside the pipe and plugs the filter at the end. Since the water has fewer paths to take we get a higher resistance but the water wants to keep flowing at the same rate as before, causing an even higher current in the remaining pipes. The pipes that happened to have more streamlined pieces of rust start to degrade as well and eventually the last pipe will have a tremendous current through it causing it to fail almost instantly. I hope this answered your question.
Thank you DJ, So there's no warning that you are about to thermal runaway? How about running it on the ground with your finger on the ESC, slowly advancing the throttle? It is my experience that you have to have a blower on the motor if it is not flying to do this. I also do this in the air by flying at near full power around and around and then landing and rushing over to put my finger on the ESC and the motor and the battery. I then fly it again with more thrust, test the temperature and do it again until full throttle. My guide to too hot is if I find the temperature uncomfortable. If any one of them (motor, ESC, battery) is still cold, that component could be smaller.
Wow. Thanks Nick, 22 amps on a 12 amp ESC. Smoken... I sure hope Bruce sees the RotorGeek video. He really needs to step up his tests. What Bruce did above is of little value compared to what RotorGeeks did.
Hi Bruce, Timing of the ESC makes a big difference in ESC power/ efficiency. Is there any timing difference between the ESC's you just tested? If you run all of them with BL-Heli and the same settings, that should give a nice apples to apples comparison.
Emanuel Stassar I ran the Afro 12A and the RotorGeeks 12A straight out of the box -- as someone would find them if they bought them off the shelf. Lots of folk don't mess with timings and don't want to fuss with changing such settings -- however I will be explaining how to determine the optimum settings for timing and other parameters that can be configured if you have a desire to do so.
***** Bruce, that would be interesting. Most ESC's give you a lot of options. When timing problems cause bad running, I change it but otherwise I normally leave it alone. I know you can squeeze more power from a system by changing the timing, but at the cost of efficiency. It would be interesting to get some numbers !
***** Timing is really important for all users of brushless motors, I think. So your video will very helpful. In cars and trucks, there's also the whole start-up thing, but of course that's not really an issue in flying.
yes, timing makes much more difference than the internal resistance does, not that it is not important, but timing makes huge difference, telling from experience working with blheli f/w as well as the hobbywing xrotor series.
Here's a question for you about ESCs... I have a Banana Hobby Flyfan 6S 64mm EDF that comes with a 40A ESC and when tested with my Watt meter it maxes out at 40.8A @ 942 watts. Now, I maiden this plane twice on two individual 6S 2600mah/45C batteries @ a constant speed of 60% and both times it dead-sticked at 3 minutes (which might sound about right for these batteries); however, immediately after landing I checked each battery after flight both times and the batteries come down with 65-66% each time! And yes, after checking batteries after each flight I did rev up the motors and they still had full thrust, even though they had died in the air and dead-sticked each flight! And BTW, both these batteries are fine, have proven themselves in a 6S Banshee on multiple flights, no problems! So my question is this; what would cause this to happen? Also, just for S&Gs I tried the plane on the ground (at home) with 3500mah/60C batteries and the first run ended at one minute where I watched the Admiral receiver red light flicker for about 15 seconds before the minute was up and the light went out completely! And yes, after cycling the throttle stick to zero (almost immediately after "lights out") I ran the EDF (as in fight) at about 60% for about 4 more minutes on the 3500mah batteries. Yes, they measured at 26% battery left over after 5 minutes total. Now this is all very interesting information, but it would seem to me that there's no constant here! So I'm confused... I think it's a bad ESC, but what do you think?
Good choice of subject, more then the usual Quads stuff LOL. I actualy learned something immediately usefull ; i was watching the video while building a model, the T-motor ill be using came with an already soldered ESC. So i went ahead and replaced it with a Power HD* rather then a NoBrand* . (Y)
Very nice video Bruce but you didn't mention what the timing settings were cause running one esc on high timing compared to another one running low timing you will end up different results. Pete.
Drumrboynoid, It was a gift. I believe they were an item in ALDI stores a few months ago. I have a similar one. Not sure if they are still available though, as the stock items change very rapidly.
Great info as usual Bruce. It reminded me of a video you did a while back "RC BASICS: What is Kv?". At the end you said there would be another video on power and how to match it to your prop/model. Did you ever do it? I've searched through all your videos but can't find it...
quite informative. well could you make a video as to which ESC is best for a edf. and some information about a thrust tube. best thrust tube. effect of number of fans on the thrust n how
Bruce big thanks for another great feature, really appreciate the info. Is there any value in stripping the heat shrink and adding a passive heatsink to the MOSFETs? Just thinking that the plastic probably makes for a good insulator and a small sink would not add a lot of mass but could improve reliability. Trying to decide mini quad or hex camera setup.... All the best Dave
I think you should really use a *powersupply* instead of a battery to do these tests. Especially on the full thrust tests the voltage seems to drop quite a lot, and by a different amount every time. This makes the results less compareable than they should be. 12V power supplies for LED applications should do the trick very well and getting them for high currents (let's say 50A if you needed to) is no problem. Didn't you even show one of these in one of your videos some time ago?
Testing the max thrust and Amp/Watt usage only helps me if I want a little higher top speed. 82 vs 87 km/h doesn't make that much difference to me though. Personally I'm more interested in battery life. So if you could test Amp draw for the _same_ thrust (preferably a realistic thrust like a little above hover) I'm more interested. Although I have a hunch it will be more or less the same.
Bruce you never look at comments on your older videos. Well, I hope I am mistaken. I bought Cobra 2204 1960kv motors and triggered my fire button on 20A ESCs from Rotorgeeks on sale. Now, since the motors are rated 140W @ 3S batteries I only need 12A. Question is, will these 20A or even 30A ESCs work right out of the box without having to program them and whatnot?
Ok... so all other things being equal... what is the 'motor timing' of all those ESC's you used. Are they all running the same timing, or is on ESC's timing better suited to the motor you were testing with compared to any/all of the others? If one of them is firing the pulses to the poles right on the sweet-spot for that motor, that would have to make it run more efficient and make it produce more power if everything else is the same, no? Q-Ball :)
If I apply 1 volt via throttle to my ESC but the motor spins faster than its KV rating (ie 2000RPM on a 1000KV motor) because of wind pushing against the propeller during a steep dive of my drone, will the ESC try and slow down the motor, give no voltage or continue to give 1 volt which will end up reenforcing the 2000RPM?
what a great video, I was always wondering if there were any difference, but ive always been asking myself not about the thrust gain, but about the efficiency. would you test it please? thank you!! also maybe you know the hobbywing platinum ESCs? are they good?
@RCModelReviews if i just want to test a motor (make it turn it doesn't need to go fast or anything) that requires a 60A ESC, can I get away with a smaller amp ESC?
Sir, I new to RC Boating. I need to know a few things. When I chose a Motor for my boat, say like a Leopard 3674-2200Kv, how do I chose a the appropriate ESC ? Is it determined by Amps of the Motor, or Voltage, or BOTH ? And lastly, Can safely use a say 180A esc for a 90A motor at 22 Volt (6s) . I really only to run 4s and 6s..... Any help would be most appreciated. Thank you
I am trying to make a F450 quadcopter with 2212 2700Kv BL motors, 30A ESC having 2A 5V BEC output and 11.1v 2200mah battery . All the connections are in right position (I have checked several times ) but after the armed (alarming sound from Bl motors ) when i am trying to fly the drone , no motors are running and they are start shivering (same like if you connect a DC motor with AC supply ) , could you help me on this ? Are the motors , ESC and battery are appropriate to each other ?
If I give my variable pitch quadcopter or RC Heli negative pitch to make it dive down it s propellers will accelerate in RPM . My question is this, If my RPM exceeds my Throttle setting as a result of autorotational effect as the heli accelerates downward with the aid of gravity, will my heli still be drawing amps and power from the battery? What will happen in this case to my system? Will back emf constantly try to slow down the excessive RPM?
Love the video Bruce! SOOOOOO glad I got rotorgeeks for my miniquad. Have an idea for you to review. Many multirotor fliers are probably interested in charging platforms that can handle multiple liPo packs (I'm talking 5+ 3 or 5 s batteries), given the relatively short flight times. Do you have any you could review?
Question: is this a match or do i need a better esc. *Esc 60A burst 390A sbec6/3v* *motor 3670 2150kv 70A 1600W* And if i need a better esc, what do i need? I don't need to know brand names, just the numbers on what is a good combo! Have a nice day!
Hi, I'm new to this hobby, a question I'd like to ask through viewing your video on sbecs, with regards my model .I have a Hangar 9 P51 blue nose, I'm running a Efite power90, CC100 esc with a 5A bec, I have 7 digial servos (hitec HS-5485HB) and 2 hitec retract servos and being powered by two 4s 5000mha in series. I don't have a separate battery for the receiver. With your expert knowledge do I need a sbec, to run the electrics safely and efficiently? Can you help?cheers Kim
Id like to see a test done on the differences between battery c ratings, I use mt2204 motors and with a 20c and a 30c battery, to me i dont see any difference but is there in controlled test environments???
Hi Bruce when you do these tests shouldn't you make sure that your input voltage remains constant throughout the testing? Seems like that would make a difference
Bruce, I normally enjoy your videos and this one was no exception but you tend to show tid bits and then mention you show the results elsewhere. Normally I prefer to click on a vid and see the action/results. Guess I'm a lazy viewer but it would be nice to see as much of the results as possible when viewing a vid. I won't mention all the empty promises given in other vids but it's becoming more pronounced with your vids of late. Please take this as constructive criticism, not trying to be mean here. I just want to see what's promised is all. Thanks again for all of your vids.
Did you not watch the video? 1. 335g 7.7A 92.1W 2. 326g 7.9A 94.0W 3. 346g 8.4A 99.7W That's taken directly from the information shown in the video. Or did you prefer someone take one text and write it again in another font for your convenience?
What do you think about the Rotor Geeks 30 amps escs? I'm building a 300 size racing quad and I'm think of using those rather than the 12 amp ones because it's quite a bit larger and heavier than a standard 250 size quad.
Alex zuga I am using them in my BL330 so stay tuned and you'll see how they work. I'm also doing a bench-test of the RotorGeeks ESC range so that will also give you important info. The 12A ESCs are good for up to 4S with 6045 props on a miniquad but for a 330-sized frame (where you're more likely to use consistently higher power levels) then the 30A would be a better choice.
Hi there, you've done a great video. I have a damaged ESC caused by falling drone. It is a pretty new model and i don't find the ESC as spare. If i buy another kind of ESC with appropriate parameters, do you think it will work with the other three together ? Do i need to programme it to work as the existing ones ? Thank you.
What was the answer? I have a similar problem. One of the four ESC's is faulty.....do I need to replace all four because I can't find the same OPTO 30Amp that came with the Flamewheel kit. Is it better upgrade all four to 40Amp ESC's?
whats your opinion? alien 5" with dysxs20a im worried about not having enough amperage rating for 2206/2300 knockoff of brother hobbys called droneproz racing motors ill be running 4s but i was going to go with littlebee 30amp bheli-s but the company seem to think the dys 20 was better setup. I hate i want be able to run 5s or even crazier 6s but i guess if it bothers me enough ill save up for higher rated esc and put nice set of 2206 motors like brother hobbys returner. Do you think that this will be enough amperage for time being or should i consider finding esc's asap?
Good video Bruce. Would also be interesting to see the efficiency stats across ESCs of similar stature based on internal resistance differences. Would one ESC be that much more efficient to make a difference in run time? Perhaps it would be easier on the batteries? Also, nice shirt! Looking forward to that review as well!
rcmodelreviews i have currently cicada 30amp i believe they didnt have label still but i have f40 2600kv 2306 silver windings and it feels like it didnt pick up more speed and dont feel no better than my old brother hobby r4 2206/2600kv motors i had? could bearings being cruddy on f40 2600 and also could my esc's be limiting my power? Whats your thoughts
questions can i run any 2s lipo on a 2s 320A esc etc will a 1200mah 25c battery (30A outpot) work on a 320A esc or do i need a battery that can deliver 320A
I live in Germany and can order them for 5€ Shipping (6$) and they arrive in 1-2 days, the first time in this hobby i have an advantage for being from Germany :D BTW: The KISS ESCs are AWESOME, im even upgrading my big Gimbal Copter to KISS ESCs. You can feel the difference of 32khz Motor PWM, the freewheeling and the great firmware which responds superfast. There are comparisons (without oneshot) testing pitch, yaw and so on comparted to regular escs .... after that video i had to buy them and dont regret it
Hi and thanks for the video. What factor in esc should I look when using low kv motors like rc motor 5010 360kv ? I use the same 30A esc but I get very different result. The 30A esc BLHelli-s little bee doesn't run the motor no matter using Dshot, one shot or any other protocols. Hope someone can help here .Thanks in advanced
Hey good vid could it be the 12 amp esc had head room from the battery power stable peak and efficient control like a 100watt amp playing a 25 watt speaker
can i run different esc with same motors size like i am running 3-15amps and one 12amps esc with my cc3d is that ok or do i need to reduce something to make it even out in flight or power
Bruce. can you pretty please tell me where you got your large digital scale from? (not used in this video) I think its red. I keep asking but never get an answer. Is it a secret? I wanna be in the club. Thanks in advance.
I wish i was rich, or out of buisness for a few months so i could send you a sett of kde direct's esc and motors. Would be nice to see a comparisson from the higher segment aswell.
How hard is it to make an esc? Is that something that you could build and make a comparison to the others? Just asking, as I have no idea how hard or what is involved, but it would be interesting. Thanks for the video.
amtpdb1 You will get a fair idea of what's involved when I post my technical description (white-board and some bench examples) of how an ESC actually works.
Afro 12A ESC: 11.94V 7.8A 93W with 334g of thrust (3.6 g/W)
Afro 20A ESC BL Heli: 11.90V 8.0A 95W with 329g of thrust (3.5 g/W)
Rotorgeeks 12A: 11.83V 8.5A 101W with 342g of thrust (3.4 g/W)
Thank you Sir,That was very useful information I hope all the esc manufactures see this video and go back to the drawing board!
Who would have thought? More power from different brands. Cant wait to hear more about OneShot125. I love it, but would like to learn more about how and why it does what it does.
thanks Bruce.
looking forward to seeing the series about ESC's i always wanted to know the difference. and one shot be great to see more about it THanks Bruce....
Interesting results. I find all of your video's very educational. Thanks for all that you do for the rc/fpv community.
You're the bist of the bist Bruce. Thanks for sharing your knowledge - really appreciate it.
Good video Bruce. I have found it the Hard way (flying in the field). I used ZTW, Hobbywing, OFM MOSK Custom ESCs and with ZTW i always had low power on motors. that kept me wondering whats going on. Switched to Hobbying 10A and it was better power than ZTW 12A. used OFM MOSK 12A (our own OEM ESCs) and it was even better.
Great video. keep educating us bro
From video paused at thrust max:
Afro 12 - 335g @ 7.7A
Afro 20 - 326g @ 7.9A
RG 12A - 346g @ 8.4A
You don't really notice a difference until you start going 2 bigger scale .20 size and up where the ESC does make a difference. An example on the FMS super Cub with the stock ESC 45a and a .32 size brushless motor. Swinging a 12 x 7 prop on 4S even though the combo did not get hot even when I put a 13 x 6 prop I was only able to get 670 Watts change the ESC to a hobbywing 60 amp I was able to get 898 Watts that's what significant difference. And your system ran really cool. So basically I was able to hover my cub with just a prop change and ESC change.
Don't know weather that's coincidental or something is happening there. But it did work. Never worked with smaller scale unless it was two different brand ESC's and the build quality was different.
You never followed up with another video.
are you actually allowed a mobile phone on the airfield bruce, doesn't it transmit?
Thanks Bruce, I really enjoy watching your videos
Bruce, noticed that the starting battery voltage was progressively lower for each test. Maybe re-test with the battery at the same starting voltage for each one?
Been looking forward to your ESC in depth videos.
Hi Bruce,
I'm a big fan of yours, and speaking of fans, I wonder if at some point, you could treat your loyal followers to a comprehensive appraisal of the performance of budget propellers, when compared to the more expensive ones with a common battery/ESC/motor?
I have run numerous tests of my own, with some wildly varying results. I can't always get anything like the published thrust, watts, or amp draw for a given motor with the cheaper typically Chinese propellers, but that isn't always the case. The performance of some of the more rigid ones when properly balanced, doesn't fall far short of the more expensive ones.
Then of course, there's maximum rotational speed to consider. Some motors will rev the prop too high and they don't like it at all, vibrating and doing all manner of weird things. When attached to a prop-saver, some of those cheapo orange things have a nasty habit of flying off altogether, even when balanced.
A video giving your own take on this matter would be greatly appreciated by the wider modelling fraternity.
Regards
Tad Davison
UK
Very important question I wish Bruce would address: Do ESCs prevent current from being more than rated? Do some ESCs do that? Is there some warning besides putting your finger on the heat sink that the motor is too big? Do some ESCs fail gracefully?
Coming from hobby electronics these's probably very few ESCs that have thermal protection simply because it adds complexity and thus unavoidably cost. On some of the more expensive ones maybe, but the way a parallel circuit of MOSFETs fail makes it very hard to compensate for.
When one MOSFET goes past its limit it enters a process commonly referred to as a "thermal runaway". When this happens the conducting elements have gotten so hot that their efficiency has dropped significantly and in turn produce more heat while passing less current. Meanwhile it it also unable to dissapate this excess thermal energy and as such a negative feedback loop is created. The conducting material will then reach its melting point (often, but not always, igniting the plastic hull of the MOSFET) and in one way or another assume a permanent state where heat is no longer produced, which is to not conduct between the switched terminals at all.
Once this process is completed, the load on the remaining parallel MOSFETs will have increased since there are fewer paths for the current to take. This in turn will cause the next MOSFET to overheat, restarting the process again until all MOSFETs have burned out.
You can imagine this as two tanks of water. One is above the other (a voltage difference) with filtered rusty pipes going between them. When the water is moving too fast (current is too high), pieces of rust start dislodging from inside the pipe and plugs the filter at the end. Since the water has fewer paths to take we get a higher resistance but the water wants to keep flowing at the same rate as before, causing an even higher current in the remaining pipes. The pipes that happened to have more streamlined pieces of rust start to degrade as well and eventually the last pipe will have a tremendous current through it causing it to fail almost instantly.
I hope this answered your question.
Thank you DJ,
So there's no warning that you are about to thermal runaway? How about running it on the ground with your finger on the ESC, slowly advancing the throttle? It is my experience that you have to have a blower on the motor if it is not flying to do this. I also do this in the air by flying at near full power around and around and then landing and rushing over to put my finger on the ESC and the motor and the battery. I then fly it again with more thrust, test the temperature and do it again until full throttle. My guide to too hot is if I find the temperature uncomfortable. If any one of them (motor, ESC, battery) is still cold, that component could be smaller.
Djhg2000 actually quite a few ESCs have thermal protection. Its not uncommon.
Rotorgeeks ESCs have temperature protection! GO to their website.They have a great video of it in action.
Wow. Thanks Nick,
22 amps on a 12 amp ESC. Smoken... I sure hope Bruce sees the RotorGeek video. He really needs to step up his tests. What Bruce did above is of little value compared to what RotorGeeks did.
Hi Bruce,
Timing of the ESC makes a big difference in ESC power/ efficiency. Is there any timing difference between the ESC's you just tested? If you run all of them with BL-Heli and the same settings, that should give a nice apples to apples comparison.
Emanuel Stassar I ran the Afro 12A and the RotorGeeks 12A straight out of the box -- as someone would find them if they bought them off the shelf. Lots of folk don't mess with timings and don't want to fuss with changing such settings -- however I will be explaining how to determine the optimum settings for timing and other parameters that can be configured if you have a desire to do so.
*****
Bruce, that would be interesting. Most ESC's give you a lot of options. When timing problems cause bad running, I change it but otherwise I normally leave it alone. I know you can squeeze more power from a system by changing the timing, but at the cost of efficiency. It would be interesting to get some numbers !
***** Timing is really important for all users of brushless motors, I think. So your video will very helpful.
In cars and trucks, there's also the whole start-up thing, but of course that's not really an issue in flying.
yes, timing makes much more difference than the internal resistance does, not that it is not important, but timing makes huge difference, telling from experience working with blheli f/w as well as the hobbywing xrotor series.
Here's a question for you about ESCs... I have a Banana Hobby Flyfan 6S 64mm EDF that comes with a 40A ESC and when tested with my Watt meter it maxes out at 40.8A @ 942 watts. Now, I maiden this plane twice on two individual 6S 2600mah/45C batteries @ a constant speed of 60% and both times it dead-sticked at 3 minutes (which might sound about right for these batteries); however, immediately after landing I checked each battery after flight both times and the batteries come down with 65-66% each time! And yes, after checking batteries after each flight I did rev up the motors and they still had full thrust, even though they had died in the air and dead-sticked each flight! And BTW, both these batteries are fine, have proven themselves in a 6S Banshee on multiple flights, no problems! So my question is this; what would cause this to happen? Also, just for S&Gs I tried the plane on the ground (at home) with 3500mah/60C batteries and the first run ended at one minute where I watched the Admiral receiver red light flicker for about 15 seconds before the minute was up and the light went out completely! And yes, after cycling the throttle stick to zero (almost immediately after "lights out") I ran the EDF (as in fight) at about 60% for about 4 more minutes on the 3500mah batteries. Yes, they measured at 26% battery left over after 5 minutes total. Now this is all very interesting information, but it would seem to me that there's no constant here! So I'm confused... I think it's a bad ESC, but what do you think?
In older RC trucks, I've had enormous performance differences between lower and higher quality ESC's.
Me too with on road foams. We ran Novak $100 one in 90's. Forget name, but Novak's most expensive. All Japanese or American, not china
I am pretty sure the difference between SimonK and BLHeli firmware is more significant than the difference between 12 amp and 20 amp ESCs.
Good choice of subject, more then the usual Quads stuff LOL.
I actualy learned something immediately usefull ; i was watching
the video while building a model, the T-motor ill be using
came with an already soldered ESC. So i went ahead and replaced
it with a Power HD* rather then a NoBrand* . (Y)
Very nice video Bruce but you didn't mention what the timing settings were cause running one esc on high timing compared to another one running low timing you will end up different results.
Pete.
Nice test bruce, I had been wondering the same thing... And I'm looking forward to the new series! :D
Drumrboynoid, It was a gift.
I believe they were an item in ALDI stores a few months ago. I have a similar one.
Not sure if they are still available though, as the stock items change very rapidly.
WIth BlHeli (but as well on other ESC) you can configure the motor timing, this alone change a lot the max output power.
Excellent- I always enjoy it when Bruce gets the whiteboard out and splains shit.
Hehe... You mean when xjet xplanes... :-)
Ben Govett
I stand so very well corrected.
LMFAO. that was awesome!
Looking forward to both the ESC and motor shootout
Great info as usual Bruce. It reminded me of a video you did a while back "RC BASICS: What is Kv?". At the end you said there would be another video on power and how to match it to your prop/model. Did you ever do it? I've searched through all your videos but can't find it...
Thanks for the effort look forward to the emax 2300 2204 comparison if possible.
quite informative. well could you make a video as to which ESC is best for a edf. and some information about a thrust tube. best thrust tube. effect of number of fans on the thrust n how
Bruce big thanks for another great feature, really appreciate the info. Is there any value in stripping the heat shrink and adding a passive heatsink to the MOSFETs? Just thinking that the plastic probably makes for a good insulator and a small sink would not add a lot of mass but could improve reliability. Trying to decide mini quad or hex camera setup.... All the best Dave
I think you should really use a *powersupply* instead of a battery to do these tests. Especially on the full thrust tests the voltage seems to drop quite a lot, and by a different amount every time. This makes the results less compareable than they should be. 12V power supplies for LED applications should do the trick very well and getting them for high currents (let's say 50A if you needed to) is no problem. Didn't you even show one of these in one of your videos some time ago?
Interesting stuff Bruce. This is one thing I had on the "to do" list. Keep up the good work. ;-)
Testing the max thrust and Amp/Watt usage only helps me if I want a little higher top speed. 82 vs 87 km/h doesn't make that much difference to me though.
Personally I'm more interested in battery life. So if you could test Amp draw for the _same_ thrust (preferably a realistic thrust like a little above hover) I'm more interested. Although I have a hunch it will be more or less the same.
Hi Bruce... i would like to see an episode on ESCs failing on some motors (loosing sync).... can you please explain what happens there?
can't wait for the shootout and esc videos !
Sweet test. Thanks for posting stuff like this.
Be very interested in seeing dampening mode tested too please :)
Hey Bruce,
Just wondering how your going with the "my first multirotor" video. Sorry to bug you I'm just really looking forward to it.
I was hoping for 20a vs 30a with a high pitched prop and 2205 motor
Bruce you never look at comments on your older videos. Well, I hope I am mistaken. I bought Cobra 2204 1960kv motors and triggered my fire button on 20A ESCs from Rotorgeeks on sale. Now, since the motors are rated 140W @ 3S batteries I only need 12A. Question is, will these 20A or even 30A ESCs work right out of the box without having to program them and whatnot?
Ok... so all other things being equal... what is the 'motor timing' of all those ESC's you used.
Are they all running the same timing, or is on ESC's timing better suited to the motor you were testing with compared to any/all of the others?
If one of them is firing the pulses to the poles right on the sweet-spot for that motor, that would have to make it run more efficient and make it produce more power if everything else is the same, no?
Q-Ball :)
What about motor timing? That seems to be one variable not addressed.
Test the 18A kiss esc . I Think they will be the most efficent due to dedicated mosfet drivers and good transistors.
If I apply 1 volt via throttle to my ESC but the motor spins faster than its KV rating (ie 2000RPM on a 1000KV motor) because of wind pushing against the propeller during a steep dive of my drone, will the ESC try and slow down the motor, give no voltage or continue to give 1 volt which will end up reenforcing the 2000RPM?
what a great video, I was always wondering if there were any difference, but ive always been asking myself not about the thrust gain, but about the efficiency. would you test it please? thank you!! also maybe you know the hobbywing platinum ESCs? are they good?
@RCModelReviews if i just want to test a motor (make it turn it doesn't need to go fast or anything) that requires a 60A ESC, can I get away with a smaller amp ESC?
Sir, I new to RC Boating. I need to know a few things. When I chose a Motor for my boat, say like a Leopard 3674-2200Kv, how do I chose a the appropriate ESC ? Is it determined by Amps of the Motor, or Voltage, or BOTH ? And lastly, Can safely use a say 180A esc for a 90A motor at 22 Volt (6s) . I really only to run 4s and 6s..... Any help would be most appreciated. Thank you
Great comparison video!
When is the "exposing " video coming out?
Have you done a video on ESC motor timing? Apologies if I missed it.
I have 4 15A motors and 4 20A esc’s, will it work good?
Hey Bruce.. you should try to get your hands on some of the stuff from Only Flying Machines and Alishanmao
Hey, Bruce, is that a Hakko soldering iron behind your left shoulder? If it is what is your thoughts on it in comparison to Weller?
power/thrust vs ESC?
What if we test ESC's what thrust will give with the same power? (or what current they draw with the same thrust)
I am trying to make a F450 quadcopter with 2212 2700Kv BL motors, 30A ESC having 2A 5V BEC output and 11.1v 2200mah battery .
All the connections are in right position (I have checked several times ) but after the armed (alarming sound from Bl motors ) when i am trying to fly the drone , no motors are running and they are start shivering (same like if you connect a DC motor with AC supply ) , could you help me on this ?
Are the motors , ESC and battery are appropriate to each other ?
correct me if i'm wrong but don't afro esc use Atml chips and the rotogeeks use Silabs? maybe that was the difference vs the fw or the size.
Good video Bruce.
If I give my variable pitch quadcopter or RC Heli negative pitch to make it dive down it s propellers will accelerate in RPM . My question is this, If my RPM exceeds my Throttle setting as a result of autorotational effect as the heli accelerates downward with the aid of gravity, will my heli still be drawing amps and power from the battery? What will happen in this case to my system? Will back emf constantly try to slow down the excessive RPM?
Interesting! Unfortunately there are only about 500 more brands and models to test.... lol
Great video. What are you using to control the ESC speed? Thanks again.
Love the video Bruce! SOOOOOO glad I got rotorgeeks for my miniquad.
Have an idea for you to review. Many multirotor fliers are probably interested in charging platforms that can handle multiple liPo packs (I'm talking 5+ 3 or 5 s batteries), given the relatively short flight times. Do you have any you could review?
Question: is this a match or do i need a better esc.
*Esc 60A burst 390A sbec6/3v*
*motor 3670 2150kv 70A 1600W*
And if i need a better esc, what do i need? I don't need to know brand names, just the numbers on what is a good combo! Have a nice day!
Bruce... shouldn't you be doing these indoor tests during the winter ???
Go out and fly while the weather is warm ;)
Hi, I'm new to this hobby, a question I'd like to ask through viewing your video on sbecs, with regards my model .I have a Hangar 9 P51 blue nose, I'm running a Efite power90, CC100 esc with a 5A bec, I have 7 digial servos (hitec HS-5485HB) and 2 hitec retract servos and being powered by two 4s 5000mha in series. I don't have a separate battery for the receiver. With your expert knowledge do I need a sbec, to run the electrics safely and efficiently? Can you help?cheers Kim
Id like to see a test done on the differences between battery c ratings, I use mt2204 motors and with a 20c and a 30c battery, to me i dont see any difference but is there in controlled test environments???
Hi Bruce when you do these tests shouldn't you make sure that your input voltage remains constant throughout the testing? Seems like that would make a difference
A more accurate test would be to use all Roar approved ESC put in blinky mode, same motor and timing.
Bruce, I normally enjoy your videos and this one was no exception but you tend to show tid bits and then mention you show the results elsewhere. Normally I prefer to click on a vid and see the action/results. Guess I'm a lazy viewer but it would be nice to see as much of the results as possible when viewing a vid. I won't mention all the empty promises given in other vids but it's becoming more pronounced with your vids of late. Please take this as constructive criticism, not trying to be mean here. I just want to see what's promised is all. Thanks again for all of your vids.
Did you not watch the video?
1. 335g 7.7A 92.1W
2. 326g 7.9A 94.0W
3. 346g 8.4A 99.7W
That's taken directly from the information shown in the video. Or did you prefer someone take one text and write it again in another font for your convenience?
What do you think about the Rotor Geeks 30 amps escs? I'm building a 300 size racing quad and I'm think of using those rather than the 12 amp ones because it's quite a bit larger and heavier than a standard 250 size quad.
Alex zuga I am using them in my BL330 so stay tuned and you'll see how they work. I'm also doing a bench-test of the RotorGeeks ESC range so that will also give you important info. The 12A ESCs are good for up to 4S with 6045 props on a miniquad but for a 330-sized frame (where you're more likely to use consistently higher power levels) then the 30A would be a better choice.
Sweet cant wait!!
Hi there, you've done a great video. I have a damaged ESC caused by falling drone. It is a pretty new model and i don't find the ESC as spare. If i buy another kind of ESC with appropriate parameters, do you think it will work with the other three together ? Do i need to programme it to work as the existing ones ?
Thank you.
What was the answer? I have a similar problem. One of the four ESC's is faulty.....do I need to replace all four because I can't find the same OPTO 30Amp that came with the Flamewheel kit. Is it better upgrade all four to 40Amp ESC's?
I have a high doller ZTW 150 amp esc. And it does not put out but half what it should.
Will I able to figure out the current draw of a motor without using a meter? Thank you
whats your opinion? alien 5" with dysxs20a im worried about not having enough amperage rating for 2206/2300 knockoff of brother hobbys called droneproz racing motors ill be running 4s but i was going to go with littlebee 30amp bheli-s but the company seem to think the dys 20 was better setup. I hate i want be able to run 5s or even crazier 6s but i guess if it bothers me enough ill save up for higher rated esc and put nice set of 2206 motors like brother hobbys returner. Do you think that this will be enough amperage for time being or should i consider finding esc's asap?
For 2200kv motor which esc I use ........ Unfortunately my esc 30 A burn at full throttle ?
Good video Bruce. Would also be interesting to see the efficiency stats across ESCs of similar stature based on internal resistance differences. Would one ESC be that much more efficient to make a difference in run time? Perhaps it would be easier on the batteries? Also, nice shirt! Looking forward to that review as well!
Ryan Henderson Yes, that shirt is a very interesting bit of kit.. stay tuned!
Time to turn the calendar to March :)
rcmodelreviews can you do at test if you can with the racestar BR2205 2600KV motors and racestar beHLi 4in1 blHeli esc test please
rcmodelreviews i have currently cicada 30amp i believe they didnt have label still but i have f40 2600kv 2306 silver windings and it feels like it didnt pick up more speed and dont feel no better than my old brother hobby r4 2206/2600kv motors i had? could bearings being cruddy on f40 2600 and also could my esc's be limiting my power? Whats your thoughts
questions can i run any 2s lipo on a 2s 320A esc etc
will a 1200mah 25c battery (30A outpot) work on a 320A esc or do i need a battery that can deliver 320A
Has anyone heard of KISS esc's? They look very impressive.. Good luck finding them though.
yeah I've heard they're good. if you need some, the velotech magic esc's re great!
robotluke123 Cool, thanks! I'll check them out.
They're what I use on my xhover 300. He sells them on xhover.com. They're Simon k pre flashed. Those and Cobras are amazing!
I live in Germany and can order them for 5€ Shipping (6$) and they arrive in 1-2 days, the first time in this hobby i have an advantage for being from Germany :D
BTW: The KISS ESCs are AWESOME, im even upgrading my big Gimbal Copter to KISS ESCs.
You can feel the difference of 32khz Motor PWM, the freewheeling and the great firmware which responds superfast.
There are comparisons (without oneshot) testing pitch, yaw and so on comparted to regular escs .... after that video i had to buy them and dont regret it
lowcee89
Where do you order those ESC's for € 5,-?
Hi and thanks for the video. What factor in esc should I look when using low kv motors like rc motor 5010 360kv ? I use the same 30A esc but I get very different result. The 30A esc BLHelli-s little bee doesn't run the motor no matter using Dshot, one shot or any other protocols. Hope someone can help here .Thanks in advanced
Can i use a 24volt battery on a 30amp esc with a traxxas 775 size motor? Thanks..
Do the esc's w/o bec's actually have a bec and are just not have the pos wire
Hey good vid could it be the 12 amp esc had head room from the battery power stable peak and efficient control like a 100watt amp playing a 25 watt speaker
Anyone! Why is so hard to find 8s 40A dshot esc. Maybe I look at the wrong places :(
Interesting. Great video.
can i run different esc with same motors size like i am running 3-15amps and one 12amps esc with my cc3d is that ok or do i need to reduce something to make it even out in flight or power
How do you calibrate servo tester for an ESC to run a motor
I just blow a 2600kv motor using a 60amp esc and I throw it in launch mode using INAV, what went wrong😣
Shouldn't you be using a constant voltage power supply for these measurements?
Bruce. can you pretty please tell me where you got your large digital scale from? (not used in this video) I think its red. I keep asking but never get an answer. Is it a secret? I wanna be in the club. Thanks in advance.
I wish i was rich, or out of buisness for a few months so i could send you a sett of kde direct's esc and motors. Would be nice to see a comparisson from the higher segment aswell.
I need more battery life for my ft012 what etc an motor should I get plz
i flashed bl heli yesterday and lost 1.5 Amps per motor , i love it but there was pwer lost
Good vid.esc makes a difference im looking for rc cars but theorie would be the same.
How hard is it to make an esc? Is that something that you could build and make a comparison to the others? Just asking, as I have no idea how hard or what is involved, but it would be interesting.
Thanks for the video.
amtpdb1 Considering the fact that you can get a good ESC for a little more than $10, the economics of making one yourself are pretty poor ;-)
*****
OK but it still would be interesting to understand it and watch you build it ;-}. Thanks
amtpdb1 You will get a fair idea of what's involved when I post my technical description (white-board and some bench examples) of how an ESC actually works.
*****
Thanks for your time.
***** What ESCs are good ESCs for little more than $10?
Sir i buying 340kv UAV agricture motor how to choose best regards Esc?
Please help me
How do I limit an esc to output 250 watts?
Test the Sunrise Blheli slim 20A.
what is the name of your switch that turns your power to motors