they are almost steal....!!! old times you could brobably buy most guaranteed good products if not all of them but you had to sell your house and your car
I've read the datasheet and it says like this: "Over Temperature Protection: If ESC gets heated above 1100C then it reduces the output power. " I mean it says "110 deg C", but the degree symbol turned into 0 when I copy paste it
anything that cost dirt like this is most likely made in China, and there's no way Chinese using imperial over metric system. Just by that logic we can conclude that it was written in celsius, even without checking the datasheet
I’ve bought these in packs of 4 for like 20 bucks from Banggood, I used them on the Profile F22. With a 2826 2200kv motor a 6x4 prop and 3S battery. They work fine!
RC Video Reviews m.banggood.com/Wholesale-Warehouse-4X-XXD-HW30A-30A-Brushless-Motor-ESC-For-Airplane-Quadcopter-wp-Usa-961966.html?akmClientCountry=America&rmmds=search&act_poa=4XSKU042313&cur_warehouse=USA
I had an ESC burn up in a Versa wing that I didn't have good air flow over it. It had a big puff of smoke trailing from it. The other guys at the field were commenting how I was running smoke on an electric plane. It was burned up and scorched the inside of the power pod.
Get a logic probe and a semiconductor tester,also those MosFets are easily removed,you could replace them with higher Ids and lower Rds (on) devices,add some "real heat sinks to each MosFet not one large heat sink,8x8mm types glued on with silicone heatsink glue. Also you did not have the backwash ducted to replicate ambient air movement as if flying,but that ESC if the control circuit is not buggered can have the MosFets changed easy peasy,even (if you know how too) parallel the MosFets to double up the Ids rating which effectively halves the Rds(0n) rating too,since these will not be working in the ohmic region but act as high speed switches the are either in cut off or saturation,this is one reason to get the lowest Rds(on) type of MosFet possible. Parallel MosFets need to have voltage sharing same as li-po batteries do ,as the MosFets conduct one of each parallel pair might hog more of the voltage,which comes down to the Vgs (th) not being the same on every MosFet of the same type,Any technician reading this knows MosFets of any type don't have the same Vgs(th),not just type ie 4NK60 or IRF 740 one "type" may be 10Vgs(th) another may be 5Vgs(th) or 3.3Vgs(th),the last two being logic level types used with a MCU such as arduino ,raspberry pi,pics or whatever. From one MosFet to another of the same type the Vgs(th) are never the same,maybe not by enough to be a problem,but it could be so the circuit has to be able to share equally the gate voltage to overcome the gate to source threshold voltage to turn on the MosFet. The more expensive ESC units will use dual mosfet devices to maximise the switching current paths to reduce the switching resistance to allow for a higher current rating,but this need not be the case as the ESC in the video could as i state be retro fitted with better parallel MosFet devices to allow far higher drive current capability than needed,obviously now you can array MosFets to use the largest motors while still utillising cheap control gear as per the cheap ESC. I have technical information relating to this subject as i use this method for switching in smps buck and boost controllers,however this is not quite what you want,so after a quick search of Ti(Texas instruments ) data sheets i found this,- www.ti.com/lit/ab/slpa020/slpa020.pdf?ts=1705472810987&ref_url=https%253A%252F%252Fwww.google.com%252F This url will get you a data sheet explaining how to or at least give good tips on paralleling MosFets,and the best bit is they use a micro controller to operate a brushles DC motor,how fortuitous me thinks. Get a logic probe and a semiconductor tester,peak do good little testers,and you can even make a logic probe though logic probes are as cheap as chips. What MosFets are on the ESC,i cant make out the part number.
Very nice upload, You live and learn, l won’t use them cheap esc’s in any of my planes, l even install a separate ubsc too on all my expensive esc’s as well for insurance.
Yup! The moral of the story, always over spec your ESC. Being a heli guy, I've always considered it good practice to over spec by a good margin, at least 30% because when a heli ESC fails, all you can do is auto rotate it down and that takes practice in the sim and IRL to get right, it's not so easy. If the BEC fails and you have no backup, your stuffed!
I'm curious did you happen to let it cool and test it again? I'm guessing since you said there was smoke that it's dead, but I'm just wondering if there's a chance the heat protection actually kicked in. I just ordered one of these myself since they're so cheap and I have some non-drone projects that utilize brushless motors that I think it'll be the right price/capability for. Thanks for the video. Cheers
Great info, I've been tempted by these and it's cool to see some data to back up everyone's opinions. Could be wrong but it looks like the solder bridged from the main power/capacitor pad (bottom left at 13:34).
I did see that when I was making the video but I really don't think it got hot enough to get melt the solder so I didn't investigate that. Good eye. I should order another one and limit runs to 30a continuous.
I ran a similar 30 Amp ESC on 3S with a SunnySky 2212 2450kV a couple of weeks ago, I managed to get the ESC to cut motor power by about the 3rd battery pack and current draw was about 26 Amps I think (running a lot of high speed runs on 6x4 prop). On investigation the ESC still ran fine after cooling off so I can vouch the temperature cut off works I guess but the ESC was mighty hot and had melted the hot glue underneath the velcro that I use to secure the ESC. Needless to say I swapped it out for one of my Hobbywing Skywalker ESCs :-)
I bought one for my hyperion park flyer its a yellow 20amp esc but my park flyer only pulls 9.8 amps for a few seconds and runs normally around 9 to 8 amps. so far so good. But on the other hand my Alfa Model A4 Skyhawk EDF has A castle creations 15 amp esc that can run up to 20 amps on occasion no problem , it's totally how you use and know what you have what is important here.
I had a 20amp volantex which after 10 mins in rtf plane the esc just went. I took it apart and there was no visible damage. But I had no power to the motor at all
Agreed. That was really the point. I try and avoid designs that max the ESC although I have to admit guilt from time to time. I always use the excuse static v dynamic and it'll "be ok"
I tried to build a quadcopter with these ESCs and it never flew well. The motors always desynced and caused it to crash. I ended up scrapping it. I got a real quad with a proper 4 in 1 ESC and its way better
Bought a couple of these from banggood a couple of months ago, both failed due to faulty mosfets, rubbish. Bought another mainstream brand ESC, no problems.
Seemed to me it met its spec 110 deg should be deg C not F. So you killed it by running it out of spec. no surprise apart from it exceeded specs. For a park fly pulling 25amp static it would be a good economy choice. Guess pulling 40 amps was too much try it with a name brand esc. Normally like your videos - this one na.
hi so i have a rustler vxl stadium and i recently got a new motor yes its brushless and i got a new esc as well its a vxl-3s esc and it says it can take 200a continuously but i dont know a whole lot about that so ima just grt straight to my question i recently bought 2 ovonic 8000mAh 11.1v 3s lipo batterys and i want to connect both of them to it but youtube is not saying if its bad or not so can i run them without blowing anything?
Notice it doesn't even have the thermal compound properly applied, thats the culprit. If you want it to have a fare chance open up and reapply the thermal compound properly. Plus from my experiments the Fets are fake Chinese ones, stick good ST Fets, that will last long....be informed 3 of such Fets are = the whole esc cost.
@@RCVideoReviews Thanks, I solved it. Only needed to watch some videos more. I just didn't know that the controller needs to be plugged into the other side (output) in the BEC, since I'm completely new to it. I thought: Controller = input.
I wouldn't want my ESC to cut off in mid air. I tend to rate my cheap Chinese ESCs at least 20%-25% lower than their specs and make sure there is air flow over the ESC. Your
Yep that’s how I use them. Buy in bulk. None (0) have failed keeping within spec. I cut some of heatshrink away from heat sink area to help with cooling-> just in case
RC Video Reviews I agree. Love the job you did here. Not dismissive of your work at all. Really good to see what some name brand Escs do under similar tests. Your testing actually gave me more confidence in the use of this esc. Thanks heaps
Aww...I was hoping to see a dramatic fail. My first thought was “ That is one big ass prop!”. Then I believed you were asking for trouble, when you attached the cheap ESC on top of the other, I expected heat shrink meltdown. I purchased a “Tuned ESC & Motor Combination” the ESC had a significant higher amp rating than the minimum recommend ESC for the same motor if bought separately, so I borrowed the exact minimum ESC to experience the difference, if any? Both worked fine, but the difference in plane performance was noticeable. It justified the extra cost, although I don’t fully understand how it achieves the improvement.
Me too. I was hoping for a pop and smoke. Now that my friend is a very interesting question. I would be interested in doing that comparison. BTW: Where have you been? You know I started Livestreaming on Fridays at 1930 eastern?
I’m on the wrong side of the planet. Your live-streams happen during the very early hours of my day. The motor l mentioned is a Dualsky Eco 2216 & 45A ESC tuning combination, the alternative recommended ESC is 30A exact same brand. I would be interested in the “judge results”, even if it proves zero difference. It could be (for me) a little embarrassing.
I installed & calibrated both, but I’m a novice. These is possible variation. I was hoping for a simple explanation, something like the 45A ESC would allow a better flow of power to the motor than the 30A ESC, without any more stress on the battery. (Bigger wires, less heat, lower power waste. I’m guessing!).
I ordered another one. I'm going to do some 30a only testing.
they are almost steal....!!! old times you could brobably buy most guaranteed good products if not all of them but you had to sell your house and your car
I love how the air and vibration through the camera makes that thing seem like it's going nuclear lmao
Temp is likely in C science units for F imperial units.
Just the USA and Liberia really I think these days using good old Fahrenheit
Definitely 110 C not F. That's about 230 F
I've read the datasheet and it says like this:
"Over Temperature Protection:
If ESC gets heated above 1100C then it reduces the output power. "
I mean it says "110 deg C", but the degree symbol turned into 0 when I copy paste it
anything that cost dirt like this is most likely made in China, and there's no way Chinese using imperial over metric system. Just by that logic we can conclude that it was written in celsius, even without checking the datasheet
Yea that was what I would expect
I've run a number of yellow bricks at about 2/3 capacity for many batteries at a time with no problem good for the price.
I have another one on the way. I'm going to set up a 30a endurance test. I want to be more fair to the ESC this time.
I’ve bought these in packs of 4 for like 20 bucks from Banggood, I used them on the Profile F22. With a 2826 2200kv motor a 6x4 prop and 3S battery. They work fine!
I have another one on the way for a 30a endurance test :) Good to hear from you again.
RC Video Reviews m.banggood.com/Wholesale-Warehouse-4X-XXD-HW30A-30A-Brushless-Motor-ESC-For-Airplane-Quadcopter-wp-Usa-961966.html?akmClientCountry=America&rmmds=search&act_poa=4XSKU042313&cur_warehouse=USA
They definitely look alike :) CHEAP!
in my country, it cost 4 bucks each
I had an ESC burn up in a Versa wing that I didn't have good air flow over it. It had a big puff of smoke trailing from it. The other guys at the field were commenting how I was running smoke on an electric plane. It was burned up and scorched the inside of the power pod.
Doh! Never good to see that while flying :)
I'd be willing to fit salvaged heat sinks and run unwrapped. It did ok really for the price.
I really kinda want to get another one and see how it does @ or under 30a.
Get a logic probe and a semiconductor tester,also those MosFets are easily removed,you could replace them with higher Ids and lower Rds (on) devices,add some "real heat sinks to each MosFet not one large heat sink,8x8mm types glued on with silicone heatsink glue.
Also you did not have the backwash ducted to replicate ambient air movement as if flying,but that ESC if the control circuit is not buggered can have the MosFets changed easy peasy,even (if you know how too) parallel the MosFets to double up the Ids rating which effectively halves the Rds(0n) rating too,since these will not be working in the ohmic region but act as high speed switches the are either in cut off or saturation,this is one reason to get the lowest Rds(on) type of MosFet possible.
Parallel MosFets need to have voltage sharing same as li-po batteries do ,as the MosFets conduct one of each parallel pair might hog more of the voltage,which comes down to the Vgs (th) not being the same on every MosFet of the same type,Any technician reading this knows MosFets of any type don't have the same Vgs(th),not just type ie 4NK60 or IRF 740 one "type" may be 10Vgs(th) another may be 5Vgs(th) or 3.3Vgs(th),the last two being logic level types used with a MCU such as arduino ,raspberry pi,pics or whatever.
From one MosFet to another of the same type the Vgs(th) are never the same,maybe not by enough to be a problem,but it could be so the circuit has to be able to share equally the gate voltage to overcome the gate to source threshold voltage to turn on the MosFet.
The more expensive ESC units will use dual mosfet devices to maximise the switching current paths to reduce the switching resistance to allow for a higher current rating,but this need not be the case as the ESC in the video could as i state be retro fitted with better parallel MosFet devices to allow far higher drive current capability than needed,obviously now you can array MosFets to use the largest motors while still utillising cheap control gear as per the cheap ESC.
I have technical information relating to this subject as i use this method for switching in smps buck and boost controllers,however this is not quite what you want,so after a quick search of Ti(Texas instruments ) data sheets i found this,-
www.ti.com/lit/ab/slpa020/slpa020.pdf?ts=1705472810987&ref_url=https%253A%252F%252Fwww.google.com%252F
This url will get you a data sheet explaining how to or at least give good tips on paralleling MosFets,and the best bit is they use a micro controller to operate a brushles DC motor,how fortuitous me thinks.
Get a logic probe and a semiconductor tester,peak do good little testers,and you can even make a logic probe though logic probes are as cheap as chips.
What MosFets are on the ESC,i cant make out the part number.
Very nice upload, You live and learn, l won’t use them cheap esc’s in any of my planes, l even install a separate ubsc too on all my expensive esc’s as well for insurance.
Yup! The moral of the story, always over spec your ESC. Being a heli guy, I've always considered it good practice to over spec by a good margin, at least 30% because when a heli ESC fails, all you can do is auto rotate it down and that takes practice in the sim and IRL to get right, it's not so easy. If the BEC fails and you have no backup, your stuffed!
Right on
I'm curious did you happen to let it cool and test it again? I'm guessing since you said there was smoke that it's dead, but I'm just wondering if there's a chance the heat protection actually kicked in. I just ordered one of these myself since they're so cheap and I have some non-drone projects that utilize brushless motors that I think it'll be the right price/capability for. Thanks for the video. Cheers
Great info, I've been tempted by these and it's cool to see some data to back up everyone's opinions. Could be wrong but it looks like the solder bridged from the main power/capacitor pad (bottom left at 13:34).
I did see that when I was making the video but I really don't think it got hot enough to get melt the solder so I didn't investigate that. Good eye.
I should order another one and limit runs to 30a continuous.
@@jimsnodgrass8454 I had considered that, and tried to look at the traces on the other side (not an electrical engineer FWIW)
Very interesting and I like it 👍 thanks for your contribution to people 🙏
It's my pleasure
Let’s find out the thermal run away temp
Cool! Been super busy and missing out on your content! This was a must watch!
Welcome back! I've been wondering where you went. You know I started livestreaming right? Fridays 1930et.
I ran a similar 30 Amp ESC on 3S with a SunnySky 2212 2450kV a couple of weeks ago, I managed to get the ESC to cut motor power by about the 3rd battery pack and current draw was about 26 Amps I think (running a lot of high speed runs on 6x4 prop). On investigation the ESC still ran fine after cooling off so I can vouch the temperature cut off works I guess but the ESC was mighty hot and had melted the hot glue underneath the velcro that I use to secure the ESC. Needless to say I swapped it out for one of my Hobbywing Skywalker ESCs :-)
Those Skywalkers are good ESCs. I've had good luck with them.
Any chance, you mistook Celsius for Fahrenheit?
There's always a chance ;)
Depending on the application, it might be a good esc. AirHammer out!!
I think it would probably be ok at or below 30a. I have another one on the way and will find out if it can do 30a without abusing it like I did.
Not bad for a 6 dollar esc. It is great for gliders and small planes.
Agreed. It takes a beating. Hard to beat the price.
yea, ofc not as good as the expensive one but still really impressive for its price
I bought one for my hyperion park flyer its a yellow 20amp esc but my park flyer only pulls 9.8 amps for a few seconds and runs normally
around 9 to 8 amps. so far so good.
But on the other hand my Alfa Model A4 Skyhawk EDF has A castle creations 15 amp
esc that can run up to 20 amps on occasion
no problem , it's totally how you use and know what you have what is important here.
Yeah, I expect it would do fine around 20a or less.
Hi , can you tell me what voltage should work esc 30a .thanks
3s is ok.
I had a 20amp volantex which after 10 mins in rtf plane the esc just went. I took it apart and there was no visible damage. But I had no power to the motor at all
Ugh, hate it when that happens. Glad you got your plane back ok.
Always a good idea to give yourself some safety margins. I remember somewhere seeing 20% as a recommendation. Seems to be good advice.
Agreed. That was really the point. I try and avoid designs that max the ESC although I have to admit guilt from time to time. I always use the excuse static v dynamic and it'll "be ok"
I tried to build a quadcopter with these ESCs and it never flew well. The motors always desynced and caused it to crash. I ended up scrapping it. I got a real quad with a proper 4 in 1 ESC and its way better
These definitely don’t support the protocols you’d want on a quad. They’re fine in fixed wing applications though.
Good fun. Thanks. Great video.
Thanks...
a very offtopic question.
I wanted to ask that I have a hobbywing skywalker 50a ESC. can I program it using an Emax program card?
I wouldn't. ESC programming is proprietary.
I've got this esc, 2 servos, 2 props, a 2200kv brushless motor for £11.99. still a bargain even if it does blow up
É possovel habilitar ou desabilitar o sensor de temperatura neste esc. Talvez esteja desativado no teste
But what's up with the giant solder balls all over the board at 11:15?
I didn't see anything unusual there..?
Bought a couple of these from banggood a couple of months ago, both failed due to faulty mosfets, rubbish.
Bought another mainstream brand ESC, no problems.
What is the meter you are using to measure current voltage and power
Some generic meter. I haven't seen it available for purchase in years.
@@RCVideoReviews no problem, found one in my local hobby shop for $8
Seemed to me it met its spec 110 deg should be deg C not F. So you killed it by running it out of spec. no surprise apart from it exceeded specs. For a park fly pulling 25amp static it would be a good economy choice. Guess pulling 40 amps was too much try it with a name brand esc. Normally like your videos - this one na.
hi so i have a rustler vxl stadium and i recently got a new motor yes its brushless and i got a new esc as well its a vxl-3s esc and it says it can take 200a continuously but i dont know a whole lot about that so ima just grt straight to my question i recently bought 2 ovonic 8000mAh 11.1v 3s lipo batterys and i want to connect both of them to it but youtube is not saying if its bad or not so can i run them without blowing anything?
See prior comment on Emax Hawk video.
Almost 2000 reviews on Banggood for this generic esc. 4.9stars. Given the usual buy to review ratio these must be keeping a lot of modellers happy
I have another one on the way so I can do a 30a and lower only test to see how it does.
Notice it doesn't even have the thermal compound properly applied, thats the culprit. If you want it to have a fare chance open up and reapply the thermal compound properly.
Plus from my experiments the Fets are fake Chinese ones, stick good ST Fets, that will last long....be informed 3 of such Fets are = the whole esc cost.
11:07 Those loose solder balls are a ticking time bomb.
I didn't even notice those. Good eyes. Those would have been underneath the heatshrink too. Very good catch!
Man, I was excited for smoke lol
I got it to pop at the end of the last livestream. It went hard. ua-cam.com/video/tdO1gawn0d8/v-deo.html
@@RCVideoReviews excellent. I can't believe I missed that. I need to trim down my notifications so I don't miss yours!!
Yes you do!!! 😁
you can get similar, if not slightly better escs for 4 bucks on aliexpress
Yeah, but shipping takes a month. I get these overnight.
Having problems to get this ESC work. Someone having a good beginners tutorial?
That's the biggest single issue with these generic ESCs, no book. They're relatively simple though. What's the issue?
@@RCVideoReviews Thanks, I solved it. Only needed to watch some videos more. I just didn't know that the controller needs to be plugged into the other side (output) in the BEC, since I'm completely new to it. I thought: Controller = input.
bro 110 C not F
My bad
I wouldn't want my ESC to cut off in mid air. I tend to rate my cheap Chinese ESCs at least 20%-25% lower than their specs and make sure there is air flow over the ESC. Your
I think 20-25a would be better for this one as well.
Yep that’s how I use them. Buy in bulk. None (0) have failed keeping within spec. I cut some of heatshrink away from heat sink area to help with cooling-> just in case
@@jirvin4505 To be fair, the whole idea was to find out what it couldn't do--I found it.
RC Video Reviews I agree. Love the job you did here. Not dismissive of your work at all. Really good to see what some name brand Escs do under similar tests. Your testing actually gave me more confidence in the use of this esc. Thanks heaps
I've fried 2 of those under tiny loads. It all luck
I wasn't kind to this ESC, but it died running @ 30a.
maybe your working with low amperage, so no smoke show
Good ESC
What is the best 30amp esc??
I like ZTW ESCs amzn.to/2G6It7S
can we program it using a program card?
I can't answer. ESC programming is proprietary and these are white label ESCs, so you'd have to know what firmware is on it.
I burned mine yesterday
Aww...I was hoping to see a dramatic fail. My first thought was “ That is one big ass prop!”. Then I believed you were asking for trouble, when you attached the cheap ESC on top of the other, I expected heat shrink meltdown.
I purchased a “Tuned ESC & Motor Combination” the ESC had a significant higher amp rating than the minimum recommend ESC for the same motor if bought separately, so I borrowed the exact minimum ESC to experience the difference, if any? Both worked fine, but the difference in plane performance was noticeable. It justified the extra cost, although I don’t fully understand how it achieves the improvement.
Me too. I was hoping for a pop and smoke.
Now that my friend is a very interesting question. I would be interested in doing that comparison.
BTW: Where have you been? You know I started Livestreaming on Fridays at 1930 eastern?
I’m on the wrong side of the planet. Your live-streams happen during the very early hours of my day.
The motor l mentioned is a Dualsky Eco 2216 & 45A ESC tuning combination, the alternative recommended ESC is 30A exact same brand. I would be interested in the “judge results”, even if it proves zero difference. It could be (for me) a little embarrassing.
@@koalatails6391 Have you verified the are both configured and both calibrated?
I installed & calibrated both, but I’m a novice. These is possible variation.
I was hoping for a simple explanation, something like the 45A ESC would allow a better flow of power to the motor than the 30A ESC, without any more stress on the battery. (Bigger wires, less heat, lower power waste. I’m guessing!).
Mostly mosfet burn I am 10 x times buy because Cheaps 😅😅😅
Kaboom 😉lol
I was hoping for a pop and some smoke,