2018 Ford Fusion 1.5L Ecoboost Water Pump & Timing Belt
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- Опубліковано 4 бер 2023
- I'm replacing a water pump and timing belt on a 2018 Ford Fusion 1.5L Ecoboost. I discuss the repair procedure and the tools required to perform the repair. At the end of this video I detail a possible way to save time.
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I’ve done many of these timing/water pump jobs, never once had to pull the starter. The book wants you to use the fly wheel holder tool for when you torque the flywheel bolt, instead you can use a chain wrench just tight enough to keep from rotating the crankshaft pulley. If you’re using the crankshaft pin and the camshaft holder then there’s no need to pull the starter.
Thanks for the video, starting a 2017 1.5 timing belt change. Was trying to figure out how to bypass starter pull before your video ended and you jumped right into it. Good stuff!
Thanks for watching!!
Thank you very much for the explanation with the work. I had a car like this and I kept thinking what happened to the engineers who created this engine so much work to replace a timing belt.
Glad you liked it!
Thanks for a great video. I just did my daughter's 2017 Escape. My Amazon tool kit worked fine and I did not remove the starter. I did test the way the pin contacts the crank by backing the pin off a couple turns and sure enough, the crank move a little more. That just means that it does butt up against the end of the pin. I hope the guy that designed that back timing cover stud with the bracket has his nuts boiled in oil. Thanks!
Thanks for watching!!
I....FEEL.....YOU! I just finished repairing a broken sparkplug....WITH a broken extractor in it for my brother's 2016 fusion. I had to remove the head, and just did not have the time for a video! I went ahead and replaced the water pump and timing belt while i was at that point of disassembly. OH, the damn hoses spilled coolant on me right up until the last second when i put them all back!! YES..... you have to have the timing tools for sure, and YES, A COMPLETE PITA! Great video! (great idea in "blocking" up the motor.)
Thanks for watching!!
I was able to do this job myself because of this video. Haynes manual alone didnt cut it this time. Well done and thank you!
Glad it helped. Thanks again for watching!
Subbed. Learned so much from this video. These should have been recalled by Ford, they knew these things were turds to begin with.
I appreciate you watching!! Thanks.
Just finished, and your video was very helpful. Only problem… the flywheel locker broke, so I was forced to remove the oil pan to find an alternate way to hold the flywheel.
If I ever do it again, I will forget about removing the starter and everything in the front of the engine and just pull the pan… took 20-30 minutes to remove and reinstall Vs the 2-2 1/2 hours to remove and reinstall the starter, pumps, oil cooler, etc
Remove the bolts for the drivers side drive shaft carrier bracket on the back of the motor. Move it towards the passenger side enough to see the bolt behind. Remove the 10mm headed bolt from behind the bracket and use the pin. Pin and cam tool is fine to torque the pulley. Removing the sump just seems daft and can cause oil leaks if your not careful.
My suggestion on not pulling the starter, is to put the crank up against the pin, but leave the belt on so valves will move if the crank spins. Hopefully, it will break loose after a few degrees and then you take belt off and lock timing
That's what I'm saying. Thanks for watching!!
Used your video for help with one didn't realize they didn't put a key way on crank .... Thanks engineers real nice of you.... Ash to ash dust to dust if it weren't for ford my tools would rust....oh and i didn't pull starter and it was fine so yeah ex that out
Please tell me.
The bolt you screwed in from the backside of the engine to hold the crank in place, is ir strong enough for all the torque on the bolt that holds the pulley/gear in place?
I am now busy doing a timing belt change, just not sure if that bolt will hold together.
Glad to help
Some people think that pin holds the crank from the side, like a shearing action. Actually the counter weight on the crankshaft buts up to the end of the pin. It's pushing directly on the tip and straight back. Thanks for watching.
Very well done job 👏 👍 👌 good mechanic
Appreciate that. Thanks for watching!!
Also the reason they use friction fixed gears instead of keyed is due to simplicity. It’s timed perfectly every time. No issues with a tooth off or the tensioner to tight and it sounds like it has a supercharger. Just whining because it’s tight. The phaser lock holds the cams perfectly. The crank dowel holds the crank. Install the belt. Release the tensioner and now it’s perfectly timed and tension is correct. Better than some vehicles with checking belt deflection and twist. Mini cooper did something similar with the N14 engine. But with chains.
You and both know that, but I see a lot people tearing into these vehicles and not knowing what happens when you take that balancer bolt loose. A lot of people just don't do the research either. I'm a little partial to timing marks and not having to buy a tool kit for every engine. Most of the tensioners are hydraulic or cam style with an indicator to set them. In any case they are somewhat self adjusting. In rare cases you could have the old style tensioner that you just lock down, that would be one case where you could over tension the belt. I just think they make some of this stuff overly complicated. Assembly at the plant is faster I'm sure. Appreciate the feed back. Thanks for watching!!
@@paycheckmonster maybe it’s because they are trying to make sure you return to a dealer or it’s for the tool industry. Many theories with that. Every time I think I have all the tools I need I have to buy another specialty tool. It’s just the way it is. I do agree it was much simpler in the 2000s when all you had to do was line up the gear marks with the head and a pointer on the crank. But with the tools these are so simple. Just pull the pin and it’s in. But the no special tool engines are what I paid my tools off with. So they are still special.
Good job. 👏 Appreciated.
Thanks for watching!!
Thank you so much for the video it is so helpful have same ford here in centurion changed water pump so it's starting but when I hold with the Rev count it's pinging so the timing it's not right
Thanks for watching!!
I'm doing a head job on one of these, but the phaser tool doesn't fit. Every kit I see has that same phaser tool. My exhaust cam phaser is the same diameter all the way to the edge, if that makes sense. It doesn't have that step down where the tool sits.
To me, it looks like every kit is the same exact phaser tool, and the tool in my kit matches the tool that Prodemand says to use. And of course there's no alignment pin on the phaser or camshaft so I can't just slap it together.
I think we have the same kit actually, nice.
Thank you for this very informative video and your time in doing it.
I am about to tackle this job on my sons 1.5 fiesta here in Australian.
I bought the kit of special tools of ebay and have done a number of timing belts on various models but this one has got me a bit nervous.
I haven't got a fancy torque wrench to do the degrees. Can i just mark the bolt and do the 90 degrees by eye and then a little for the extra 15 degrees.
Its a manual so putting it in gear with hand brake on could assist the motor from not turning when undoing the harmonic balancer bolt i hope.
As long as you can mark something to indicate how far your turning the bolt, it should work just fine. I hate to age myself, but that's how I started out many years ago, before the electronic torque wrenches. Thanks for watching!!
Thank you so much. This was very helpful. One question: how the heck did you remove the bracket on the back that holds the timing cover on the engine. Is there a trick? I have a 2017 escape 1.5L ecoboost so basically same engine. Maybe less room but did you go from the top or the bottom to access the bracket?
I don’t advise it with a Amazon kit. But you can torque the crank bolt without removing the starter. The phaser plate and crank dowel with hold it. That’s how a senior master tech showed me working at ford. And I’ve done it that way close to 50 times with replacing the short blocks. Didn’t even know we had a flywheel lock until I had to replace the head on a new 2.0T.
That was my thought is the torque you have put on the crank bolt could bend/break that crank position bolt. I'm DIYing this and going to see if the parts store has the holding kit. Not sure if I want to try this with parts store loaner kit 😢
@@chriskulpa4056 it won’t break the dowel. Due to the design. It puts pressure against the crank. Worst thing is the threads in the block weaken and it pushes the dowel out. But that’s also easy to fix with a time-sert since it’s just a hole that needs sealed. If it’s your first time follow the recommended steps. But I can assure you that the starter removal for the flex plate lock is not needed.
@@dredennis113 I ended up skipping the flywheel lockout because already at like over 400 bucks for a water pump repair (timing belt, tensioner, crank bolt, water pump, gasket, timing tools, etc) I didn't want to add on a oil cooler and the extra time plus the kit that I bought didn't have the flywheel lockout anyways....I did end up putting a chain wrench on the pulley to try and take some of the pressure off the pin anyways. Running again without puking out coolant so I guess all is well. The water pump was SHOT. Like no bearing left in the pump after 120K miles :(
@@chriskulpa4056 awesome. And someone that has never done it didn’t need the extra work also. Yeah that’s usually what happens with the pump. The design is not that great. But I wouldn’t give them much credit. Ford did design a oil soaked timing belt.
I’m curious as to why you don’t recommend an Amazon kit? Will it break??
Hola mi bomba de agua es igual pero tiene como un sensor a lado afecta en algo si le pongo una normal sin sensor?
Thanks for the video, very helpful. I got the 3 bolts for the 2015 1.5L Fusion starter off, but the starter is stuck to the bell housing. Have you ever experienced a starter that was stuck to the bell housing and do you have any suggestions for how to free it. (There was nothing wrong with the starter, I am just trying to remove it to install the tool to hold the flywheel for the timing belt replacement.)
Question what took kit did you use and whats the part number?
Esa correa de distribución va bañada en aceite si o no tengo un mondeo 1.5ecoboost y tengo la duda gracias.
Hello. I need your help for one ecoboost 1.0 . The problem is when was driving the car on road the engine make off.
I did the timing belt with tools but always the same issue.
Thank you in advance!
Damn that was serious, just bought one from auction with a bad water pump smh, I had no idea
Hopefully it'll help. Thanks for watching!!
Welp if your reading this most likely people will have a bad water pump and the customer is cheap... Explain to the customer the tools required for the timing belt only a speciality shop or dealer have. Or if your like me a did a side job, replace the timing belt tensioner, water pump w/gasket(o.e is metal, aftermarket is not) and stretch alternator belt. DO NOT pull the crank pulley, remove upper timing cover(10mm nut to remove turbo inlet, then 8mm bolt holding rubber side of the cover on left side of motor), mark the belt on which tooth the cams it was on while marking the crank tooth to block, wedge something plastic to keep the belt from slipping off the crank, replace your stuff, check your markings and rotate the crank twice with 18mm to make sure your markings stay true
Autozone loans the crank pin and phaser lock tools. Lock phaser and make sure the crank is up against the lock pin...you can torque the crank bolt to 80 foot pounds with the crank pin installed!! It is steel...will not handle the torque angle... Then remove the tools....use the drive belt locked under itself (see video) and torque angle the new crank bolt to spec...rotate engine and reinstall the timing tools. If the time tools fit your done.
Thanks sir
Great video! I did not take out the starter and insert the flywheel tool but I did follow all the other instructions. I'm at the point where you rotate the engine to confirm timing. But the engine only turns about 45 degrees then comes to a hard stop. Any ideas what could be wrong? Could the flywheel and starter be stuck or...?
I ended up takeing the car to Ford.... Turns out that #4 cylinder valve was contacting the top of the piston. One or two teeths of on the timing belt will be enought to cause this. Make sure to mark the exact location of the kam shafts (at around 16:44 in this video) as the tools involved might not hold everything exactly in place.
I had the pleasure of getting one of these in my shop. What a pain in the ass. I bought the same tool kit from Amazon that you used. Everything was installed properly. After torquing the balancer bolt I removed all of the locking tools. Turns out the tool that holds the flywheel cracked in half after only one use. Luckily the broken piece didn't fall into the bell housing. Just imagine if I relied on just the lock pin in the block. What if that broke off in the block instead? This whole job is pretty sketchy.
I know a lot of people that watched the video are questioning the pin the stops the crankshaft from turning. Just to explain further. The counter balance on the crankshaft does not contact the pin from the side,. It actually makes contact on the very tip. It butts up to it and does not try to shear it off. So in theory, if it did fail. The treads would have to be pulled out and the pin would push directly out the side of the block. It sure is a cluster of a system though. I would agree. Thanks for watching!!
Your video is very well done. I am about to replace the timing belt on 1.5 Escape. I am torn between pulling the starter or not. It looks like it is very difficult to get out but I am nervous about breaking the pin if I do not. Do you have any further thoughts on this since you did the video? Thanks again.
A lot of people think the crankshaft would shear the pin off, but actually the counter weight on the crankshaft butts up to it. It pushes directly on the tip. That's why you need to make sure the pin is threaded all the way in. I've never broke one. In the service manual, that is the procedure to hold it. They flywheel lock plate hold the crankshaft to loosen the bolt. That's why I just zip them out with the impact.
Currently doing this on my 1.6. I believe it jumped a tooth. I got code p0011 and p0016 and the crank pulley was off from the cam phasers
and how you fix that if may i know?
The problem you face if you don't pull the starter, you apply a lot of torque to the crank lock pin. Will the lock pin hold? If it bends or breaks you are out a engine your shop needs to eat. Just saying, I am going to do this job tomorrow, it is in my bay waiting. I am a master tech with 30 years in. Not worried about taking the crank bolt off, you can spin the crank back to the holding pin. Also I have done a ton transmissions in the escapes and never replaced the oil cooler gasket..
So the counter weight on the crank butts up to the end of the pin. So you shouldn't shear it off. I just think you can save some time by not pulling the starter, but you have to make sure the crank is making contact with the pin for timing purposes. As far as the oil cooler, it's cheep enough to replace and didn't want any chances of a come back. Thanks for watching!!
Do you even have to remove the crank bolt and the balancer? Couldn't you just line up the tool in the cam phasers on top after the bolt stops the crankshaft and snake the belt onto the sprocket behind the crank pulley so you don't have to worry about knocking that part out of alignment?
You most defiantly have to pull the balancer off. No way around that. Thanks for watching!!
You are rigth in mexico I do that in the Nissan Platina you need the same locking tools even is a litle bit more difficult and to save some time I do that i do not lock the fly weel
Thanks for watching!!
I may say something stupid, but does engaging into gear provide mechanic coupling of crankshaft with the wheels and then locking the wheels by applying the brakes. Could this be a solution to locking the flywheel? (Of course in case you have a manual gearbox and change the timing belt with the engine mounted on the chassis)
that would work on a manual maybe but not on an automatic because the trans isn't actually engaged unless it is running
Hello sir, my car has a noise problem when cold starting and put&leave off the gas pedal. Some experts say that cam gears make noise for they can’t be oiled at cold start. Can you help me? How can I contact you?
So i am currently doing the water pump on a 2017 ford escape 1.5L eco boost. What is the purpose of pulling the Harmonic balancer. I may be wrong but it looks like i can remove the water pump without removing the harmonic balancer.
Also this video has been very helpful
I am surprised that you did not notice the rubber flap on the backside of timing cover. The stud and bracket that is difficult to remove. Does not have to be removed. Unclip the top of rubber flap from timing cover. Pull cover away from engine far enough so you can get a hold on the bottom part of the rubber flap. It is slid into a slot in the timing cover. Hold rubber part while pulling cover off.
Sure makes it easier to put back on.
great video. Thanks. I have a 2018 Ford Fusion 1.5 EcoBoo. Do you have a video on removing the head? I have more time than cash so I am doing this project in my home garage. Have not done an engine rebuild since the 90's. Dealer wanted $6K. Thanks for any help.
I have done a few but never filmed it. I will say that these engine are very special, let's put it that way. Make sure to check for any recalls. Some of these had engine block issues. This may help. static.nhtsa.gov/odi/tsbs/2020/MC-10174400-0001.pdf Thanks for watching.
What about the torque on the crank bolt will tha pin support that torque instead of removing the starter
So the crankshaft makes contact at the very tip of the pin and pushes straight back. It does not contact the pin from the side. I would trust pin over the holding tool for the flywheel. Thanks for watching!!!
I did the water pump/timing belt replacement yesterday and everything went smooth except I think my crank turned a bit counterclockwise when I removed the crank bolt. Now I have everything back together and I went to spin the crank a few times to recheck and it is bumping. All my timing tools are removed so I believe the crank moved enough to be out of time. Is there an easy fix for this or have I trashed my engine? I was able to get the cam lock back in place, could I try removing the belt and turning the crank back to hit the pin?
If you have the cam phaser tool in and the crank pin in. The timing is set. You also have to align the crank balancer with a another tool. Not sure what you have going on without seeing what was done. Definitely pull it back apart before you try and start it.
Your engine should be good bro
Question how did you remove the starter bolt that is the highest up towards the back
I think I was able to reach up and use a ratcheting wrench. If memory serves me right.
So got all through it and did my 2 turns pu the locking bolt back in and the lock tool is off just a little .. enough that the locking tool wont go in.. what next?
If you don't see the dot and the line on the outer portion of the cam phaser teeth at the top you may be 180⁰ out of phase, it will lock that way. Check that first, if the centering marks are pointed downward the phaser lock won't fit. To correct that, pull the pin, rotate only clockwise past the pin, reset the pin and continue to clockwise rotate until it stops.
What’s the torque spec. For the oil cooler bolt? Thanks , Great explanation & thanks for doing this video
41 ft lbs. Thanks for watching!!
Can you get the starter out with just pulling the filter n skipping the cooler or there isn't enough room to do so I take it? Geez there's a ton of things to replace just for a timing betl/water pump 😢 I was watching another video that says you have to use a new bolt for tensioner too? I'm doing this now on my mom's Escape cuz the pump is shot. Leaking like a sieve....thinking I'm gonna skip the starter/flywheel hold step myself.
@@chriskulpa4056 You would have to remove the cooler to get at the starter. I have done a few without locking the flywheel and had no problems. You do have to make sure that when you are knocking the the crank bolt loose, that the crankshaft does not turn away from the crank locking pin. The crank bolt must be replaced and as far as the tensioner bolt, it should come with the new tensioner. I used a kit with everything in it. Thanks for watching.
Have you ever done one yourself without holding the
What did you use to get that crank bolt out? Can you turn it counter clockwise without hurting anything?
I just put an impact on it and it comes right loose.
@paycheckmonster i impacted the heck out of it with a 1/2 inch dewalt but had to finally use a 1/2 inch ratchet with a cheater. It was on there!
bro i dont have an impact drill to get that big ass bolt out so what can i do?
You really need to have a good understanding of the timing system on these vehicles before attempting the repair as explained. Don't know if I would take the risk if you don't have the correct tools. Thanks for watching!!
Hello. Please tell me when to replace the engine belt
Service manual says 150,000 Miles.
What size belt timing ford fusion 2019 ecoboost 1500
Maybe late for an answer but it got 117 tooth
You don’t need to pin the flywheel most important thing is the timing of the cams
Thanks for watching!!
Hi , your video was very helpful! Do you have a link to the kit of parts that were replaced by any chance?
Timing belt kit came form NAPA #2523431, Water Pump is Gates #42590, Oil cooler came from Ford #DS7Z-6B856A. Sometimes you can buy the water pump with the timing belt kit. The kit with water was not available at that time so I had to buy them separate. Thanks for watching!!
How much should I be expecting to pay for water water pump, thermostat, and timing belt?
It's hard to say. Pricing changes based location and type of shop. Thanks for watching!!
What brand is the service kit you have?
I bought mine on Amazon but it is currently unavailable. Thanks for watching!!
But the only thing is went you tie the crankshaft bolt is a lot pounds torque the you can brake the pin
So your actually pushing on the tip of pin straight in line. Your not actually making contact on the side like to sheer it off.
It buts up flat to a crankshaft counter weight, it would be a fluke if it couldn't hold up to what is probably like 200 ft/lbs
If your doing just the waterpump does the timing belt come off anyway?!?! Mitchell calls for 5.5 hours but i have learned on any bigger job to double it and base charge off that.
So you would actually use the wedges in the service kit and jamb those in to hold the belt in place and then loosen the tensioner and replace the water pump. A lot of fiddle fuckin around!!! Soaking the belt in the process. But yes it is 5.5 hrs to do it that way. Thanks for watching!!
@@paycheckmonster what a stupid design...thank you for clearing that up for me
I didn't enjoy pulling the starter off
What timing belt tool kit is that
I believe I bought this on Amazon. DPTOOLS maybe. Thanks for watching!!
Just wondering what Book time would a Ford dealer have for that job? Great video. Thank you.
You would have to ask the ford dealer about there pricing. Thanks for watching!!
Prolly 7 to 10 hrs. I know its 14 to do the headgasket. And it takes all fucking day maybe 2 days. It pays 19 or 20 to replace the shortblock. Basically rebuilding the whole motor a weeks worth of work for 19hrs. And they say we screw the customers. Wrong all data pro demand and all these programs screw the techs hard. Luckily I work at a shop where I can pick and choose. I run my codes on these junk boxes get misfire on cylinder 2 and misfire on first 1000 revolutions and send them on their way. You wont fool me into doing this crap.
Book time for waterpump is 5.5hrs based on Mitchel prodemand
I'm going to do a timing belt soon on a 1.5. what would you suggest I do, not to remove the starter? Put the pin in, bottom it out,install the cam phaser lock, and hit it with the impact, and hope it doesn't move? Isn't there an inspection plate on this transmission? If so you could just put a bar in there right? Any suggestions? Much appreciated
If you do the repair by the book, they want you to remove the starter to lock the fly wheel. I do them without removing the starter but it would depend on the individual on what's the best. If you crack the crank bolt loose with an impact, just make sure the crankshaft is making contact with the alignment tool "pin" in the side of the block before you proceed. Once you get in there and think about it, it will all make sense. Thanks for watching!!
Have you done any w/o the flywheel hold since this video? My concern wouldn't be with removing the flywheel bolt so much as when tightening of bending that hold pin. Seems there's alot of torque going into tightening the bolt that could bend the hold pin?
@@chriskulpa4056 A lot of people think the crankshaft counter weight is hitting the pin from side, but it's not. It actually makes contact on the tip. You wont bend it. Make sure that is fulling threaded into the block though.
@@paycheckmonster It's not hitting it on the tip, it is hitting it on the side I'm pretty sure cuz I had to back it most of the way out before I could turn the crank. It seems like it hits a major amount so not likely to bend it if you don't have a cheap set. The only thing that I came across is that of course the crank can rotate back which I think mine may have a little bit but things seem ok so I'll say it's a success 😀
@@paycheckmonsterI’m actually confused which pin you guys are talking about here
@paycheckmonster Hello, would this be the same procedure for the 2013 Fusion 1.6L? Thanks in advance. I'm having troubles finding an answer. Planning on using your video to do the job if so.
I believe it is same procedure. If you buy the timing tool set, it should have 1.5 and 1.6 tools in it. They might be the same tools also. Not 100% sure.
@@paycheckmonster ok thank you. Also, great video! Another question regarding bypassing the removal of the starter. Would you suggest leaving the timing belt on while cracking the crank bolt free with an impact? Would there be any issue if the crank moved counter clockwise a little bit doing it this way while getting the bolt loose? Thanks in advance.
@@JC-yb7vc I take the crank pulley off before removing the belt. That's just how I do it.
@@paycheckmonster great, thanks!
There’s a tool in your kit to get the crank pulley off
The pin is not strong enough especially when you tighten the crank bolt
Did you have one break???
How much does this cost?
I think it was about$1,200.
Thank you
If you don’t mind me asking, how long did this take?
@@Baf630x Almost 6 hours if u do it by the book. U can probably cut the time by a couple hours if u do it the way I explain in the video though.
Omg China is gonna be rich selling all those special tools. Ford must know that. I heard those cams dont have pins neither
The industry seems to be going that way. There is a tool for everything these days. Thanks for watching!!
I can’t believe nothing is keyed. Have you ever heard of timing slipping?
Seems to be kind of a trend with smaller engines. They have been doing this for many years. I've never seen one slip. I have seen plenty of engines that are out of time because of improper repair procedures. Loose fasteners or timing just set wrong because the proper tools were not used. Thanks for watching!!
No
Yes, this was very helpful... it shows why you should not buy these cars! Come on, Ford, do better.
Overly complicated that's for sure. Thanks for watching!!
This is one of many reasons why I will never own an American car, when I was a mechanic I always thought that the engineers that designed these cars had their heads up their asses 😅
Looks over complicated for no reason what a dumb design. They couldn’t have made it like a normal car… unfortunately it looks like most manufacturers are going this route
I would agree. I understand why they do it from a manufacturing point of view but engineers aren't really thinking about the service side of things. In my opinion anyway. Thanks for watching!!
Way too much unnecessary work just to change a water pump!🤯
Agreed. Thanks for watching!!
@Paycheck Monster You bet! I was almost to try and help a friend replace the head gasket on a 2015 Fusion 1.5l but after watching this video, I will absolutely not help him!😄
@Paycheck Monster Also I have a quick question. My friends 1.5l won't start up (unrelated to the headgasket issue) It was throwing a P00C6 which is, fuel rail pressure too low. Replaced the fuel rail pressure sensor but no change. Took the high pressure fuel pump out and the tappet cup was stuck and wouldn't come out. After getting it out, I turned the engine over by hand and the cam shaft is not turning. Do you think it's a timing belt or cam phaser?
@@daveyjones369 Most likely timing belt. Anything is possible though. Something really bad would have happened if the phaser shit the bed. Usually they don't fail to point where it won't turn the cam. Good luck.
@Paycheck Monster ok good to know! Thank you for your reply!
Light it on fire before even attempting to work on these over engineered pieces crap
Busted knuckles ur doing a good job
I appreciate that. Thanks for watching!!
Instead of taking the starter out why cant i just impact the crabk bolt off while the belt is connected then i csn even re install the bolt if i have to spin the engine
Never mind beacuse of the crank sprocket inside I suppose
At what mileage should the timing belt on a Ford 1.5L be replaced? My 2017 Ford Escape 1.5L currently has 125,411 miles.
I don't think even Ford themself do know exactly, I have read all the following distances from different sources - 200 000 mile / 80 000 km / 150 000 km / 120 000 km. so I did picked 100K km and know I won't be sorry later.
@@Marey-hw6wn it’s a moot point. My escape got totaled last weekend when I got rear ended.
If at all possible avoid this job. Pita not worth it. Just pickup a couple brake jobs. Same pay much less work.
All facts, or if people have skills just do Water pump, timing belt tensioner and stretch belt