You also want your liner lock to go half or cross past the center. If the liner only 1/3 into the blade it can jump back aka unlock from pressure on the blade. Spyderco fixed the lock back issue a while ago by concaving the lock where you press down on it.
Benchmade axis locks will easily disengage from punyo strikes, making them fundamentally unsuited for a defensive knife. The Manix CBBL seems resistant to this behavior due to the much higher disengagement force requirement. The mid back locks on Spyderco's Seki models can definitely wear out from inertial deployment, but Spyderco's Golden back lock has a deeper lock well and lock bar engagement depth, and is immune to this problem. Compression locks do fine with static loads, but they will disengage from spine strikes against hard surfaces. Frame locks are extremely vulnerable to self-interference. It takes very little pressure on the lockbar to prevent deployment. This can be trained around, but as a defensive lock they are less than ideal. Liner locks do not have this issue, and should not be grouped together when considering them for defensive applications. In my experience, the most reliable locks are the mid back lock as implemented on the Spyderco Native and Native Chief, the Manix CBBL, the Millie liner lock, and the triad lock. I would definitely not carry an axis lock for defensive purposes, and I think the compression lock and Seki back lock are questionable. Frame locks and liner locks should be tested on a case-by-case basis, as there is a wide range of reliability and failure potentials among various brands and models.
I'm not really a martial / defensive arts expert, but I think in most self defense scenarios people won't and more importantly shouldn't use a punyo style of strike. Benchmade knives for the most part are lightweight, with FRN / Grivory handles, which wouldn't lend much weight to a strike like that.
This video was great ! I'm a lefty , the S.O.G. Seal XR Flipper is my choice for EDC. For me the Seal XR is the best self defense / all around EDC knife I've experienced so far. 💯❤🔪‼️
Excellent vid, very informative. I'd like to see some about the new Cold Steel locks like the Atlas or the Demko. Also, I'd be cool if you could cover button locks, like are they as good as cross bar locks? Lastly I could suggest OTF knives I've always wanted to know exactly how they work inside and how safe are they compared to other opening mechanisms and locking types. Cheers!
I'm glad you enjoyed the video and I hope to see you around the channel again! I'll take your requests under advisement. Eventually I would like to procure an OTF with clear scales to show how they work!
Good video, welcome back. I prefer the ball bearing, compression, and tri-ad locks for my carry knives. All very strong. I do rotate in a few R.E.K.A.T. knives, but I can't recall the name of that locking mechanism. It's also quite strong.
Thanks, and glad to be back! The Tri-ad lock is one I'm not very familiar with and I need to pick one up to play with it. I haven't had the opportunity to play with any of the REKAT knives either.
Basically the Tri Ad Lock is a back lock but it is like the Hercules of back loxks. I have experienced a lock back fail with the lock release at the end of the handle by cutting with it in the blade up position pull towards myself and tne lock must have got squeezed because my thumb got cut with a Buck 110. The Tri Ad Lock being in the center make a word of difference and the stop pin on a Tri Ad lock back I believe add to the lock life tremendously , I have never heard of one failing although there may be a few but I just have not heard of them. It would be good to hear your thoughts on the Tri Ad Lock.
The Deadbolt-Lock, Atlas-Lock, Shark-Lock, and Tri-Ad Lock are the one's I feel are best for Self-Defense. You didn't mention or compare those... Have you tried them out? :-) Peace, Stiletto :-)
I personally am absolutely SICK axis style locks. At least ones with omega springs (so most of them). Its no secret that omega springs have a tendency to break and that's my big problem with them. The only 2 I can think of that have gotten it right are the Benchmade Anthem and the Spyderco Manix 2. And yes I know they're not exactly the same but they're close enough for the comparison to work. They both have a coil spring rather than omegas which typically work better and longer. And at this point with well made button locks being able to be found in the budget range I think it's just about time to either adapt the axis style lock to a coil spring or for them to just kinda fall away. I know it's a hot take but I mean come on...would you rather deal with springs breaking and having to replace them or have a better system with the same basic function? I know what I'm picking.
I don't have any hands-on experience with the Emerson CQC7, but here are my thoughts (for what they are worth) just looking at the pictures. If you like knives with the Emerson wave, then you are getting a knife from the original source of waves. Emerson has a good reputation for making good knives. It looks like the CQC7 is a liner lock, which I've never had an issue with, but I would prefer the ball mechanism in the Manix 2. I'm not a fan of the American tanto style tip the CQC7 has. It provides a very strong tip but it won't penetrate as well as the more acute tip of the Manix 2. The ability for the knife to penetrate well is more important to me than extra reinforcement of the tip. Personally I would select the Manix 2, but if you like the CQC7 it looks like it can get the job done as well.
I'm not a big fan of button locks for defensive use. Most of them aren't as strong as I would like, and its very easy to hit the button and release your lock. Just my preferences.
@@TheKnifeLifeChannel depends. For a fighting knife I would recommend either the voyager vaquero, the talwar, the black talon 2 or maybe if you feel super fancy the kris ti lite or kris voyager. I get all mine serrated but they make a fine edge too, also depends on whether or not you want an emerson style opener as the voyagers and ti lites dont have them. Another classic would be the 6 inch hold out. Jimislash would be a good channel to check as he does a lot of unboxing and some functionality reviews. He's pretty funny too.
The Knife Life bad af! Hands down one of my favorite grinds! I recently got a para 3 lw from knivesplus that’s customized and I’m loving it my other spydie is the endrua 4 tactical with the Sabre grind and combo blade. I will have a police soon.
@@knifeguy9134 If you are looking for Spydercos to add to your collection, either the Yojimbo or the Yojumbo is an excellent addition. An interesting one that I don't think is made anymore is the Eurodagger. I have two on display in my collection to showcase the different fuller configurations on both sides.
I a big fixed blade guy but as you said legal issues come with carrying them that i don't have need to concern my self with folders especially if they 4" and under but in tje pocket any folder can ne carried in MD. But we all know that knife shepple is always a concern.
As an auld fella, I love a simple back-lock. It's may be irrational of me, but I could never trust a liner-lock. Something like a Delica gives me everything I really need but you present a very logical critique. I also have learnt to respect the compression lock, but yes, my old Paramilitary 2 has way too little detent. Excellent work.
The McHenry-Williams lock, aka Axis Lock, is by far not reserved for Benchmade knives. The patent has ran out and allmost all chinese companies use the Axis Lock by now for any of their knives. Like Ganzo, DuraTech and a plethora of others. The Axis Lock is by far the best lock. Ganzo for example has improved the Axis Lock to an "auto adjustable axis lock". It has converted the Axis Lock into an Tri-Ad Lock which is as well auto adjustable. Ganzos axis lock has a few milimeters of room foreward when fully opened the blade and the blade has more room to allow for more foreward movement of the axis bar. As things eventually wear out there is more room for the axis bar to creep foreward onto the back of the blade. As well the cut outs of the handle where the axis bar is riding in is turned down geometrically just a tad in order to force an downward position while having left plenty of foreward room to make up of eventually wear out situations over decades. I have not seen any wear at all on my Ganzo 729 which is an Paramilitary 2 hommage but with axis lock. I bet Ganzo has made an improved Axis Lock which beats all other locking systems hands down. I would not be surprised if the McHenry-Williams lock would become the standard over time allways if it can beat the cheapness to manufacture of the liner lock. Liner locks chew through over time. In 1 to 3 years I have seen an frame lock chew through to the other side causing blade wobble and an Gerber EAB I used for 1 year chew through as well it's liner lock and developed blade wobble up and down. Button locks are prone to develop blade wobble as well since tolerances have to be very tight on that type of lock in order to work propperly. Do not look further, just buy a knife with the Axis Lock. Just the axis lock is not very playable and can be stiff often - which is a good thing. Knives are not to play around, open and close in front of your buddies or to kill time but rather only to open if you wanna use it. Knives are not toys to play around open and close endlessly. So an stiff Axis Lock is just fine for everybody.
Interesting..... why did he leave out the strongest lock on the market.... the Cold Steel Tri Ad lock. It certainly is not a conventional lock back. I wonder why he would omit this lock.
Long story short? I'm not familiar enough with the Tri Ad lock in order to do it justice and need to spend some time disassembling and researching it. There are a number of other locks missing from this video as well that I will be sure to address in another video.
Wondering the same thing. From the videos I've seen on this channel, Spiderco is the preferred product of discussion. And yes, leaving out one of the best AND most popular knife locks (if not the best knife lock) on the market today, the triad lock from this "knife lock video", to me, makes this video pretty incomplete in it's informational value...
@@TheKnifeLifeChannel hard to comprehend, how could you not have researched the incredibly strong and vastly popular triad before making this video? I do like your channel but, your product preference here is pretty obvious. Hey, I like them too. But not exclusively...
im currently thinking about purchasing a demko ad 20.5 with the shark lock. mostly will be used for everyday tasks but would also be used for self defense if needed. will the shark lock be good for self defense in your opinion? @The Knife Life
I currently carry a lock back and axis locking knives. My go to is a endura tactical with the Sabre grind and combo blade, I also carry the folding SOCP as my self defense blade. 🇺🇸🤙🏻
Well like I mentioned in the video a good frame-lock can be a good defensive knife. But the design can be weaker than some of the other mechanisms such as the Axis or Compression locks.
I wouldn't recommend it myself, but the decision is yours. The question is if you think the button lock is sufficiently strong, and if it is far enough out of the way you won't hit it during an encounter.
An important thing to remember is that all knives wear out eventually. It depends upon the use of the blade. My Spyderco's are subjected to some really aggressive openings. Inertial openings are pretty hard on knives. If you practice deploying your defensive blade repeatedly like you should, you will see wear over time. Lockbacks rely on the angle of the tang and the blocking bar matching up correctly. If it wears out, then its easy to overpower the lock. I don't use my Buck knife for the same application, nor do most buck owners. They typically experience a pretty soft two handed opening to perform some task. Nor do I practice deployments with my buck. The lock will still wear out over time from steel rubbing on steel, but it will take a lot longer.
Also, do you like big Flipper Tabs on Knives with weaker lock types like Liner and Frame-Lock and Plunge-Lock Folders? Myself, I don't care for the weaker lock types, unless they have a large flipper tab that protects my digits if the lock fails.. :-) Peace, Stiletto :-)
In my experience (and opinion), lock backs are only an issue among a particular demographic. That would be the pretentious knife snob that never does any disdains the use of a second hand. Which is ironic, because this same group ( generally speaking) never does any real knife work. Unless one considers relentless fidgeting, the cutting of hard broiled eggs for their Cob salad, and the occasional Amazon package “real” knife work. ; ) I'm just playing, so no body needs to get wrapped around the axle.
You also want your liner lock to go half or cross past the center. If the liner only 1/3 into the blade it can jump back aka unlock from pressure on the blade. Spyderco fixed the lock back issue a while ago by concaving the lock where you press down on it.
Thanks for sharing!
Benchmade axis locks will easily disengage from punyo strikes, making them fundamentally unsuited for a defensive knife. The Manix CBBL seems resistant to this behavior due to the much higher disengagement force requirement.
The mid back locks on Spyderco's Seki models can definitely wear out from inertial deployment, but Spyderco's Golden back lock has a deeper lock well and lock bar engagement depth, and is immune to this problem.
Compression locks do fine with static loads, but they will disengage from spine strikes against hard surfaces.
Frame locks are extremely vulnerable to self-interference. It takes very little pressure on the lockbar to prevent deployment. This can be trained around, but as a defensive lock they are less than ideal. Liner locks do not have this issue, and should not be grouped together when considering them for defensive applications.
In my experience, the most reliable locks are the mid back lock as implemented on the Spyderco Native and Native Chief, the Manix CBBL, the Millie liner lock, and the triad lock. I would definitely not carry an axis lock for defensive purposes, and I think the compression lock and Seki back lock are questionable. Frame locks and liner locks should be tested on a case-by-case basis, as there is a wide range of reliability and failure potentials among various brands and models.
I'm not really a martial / defensive arts expert, but I think in most self defense scenarios people won't and more importantly shouldn't use a punyo style of strike.
Benchmade knives for the most part are lightweight, with FRN / Grivory handles, which wouldn't lend much weight to a strike like that.
How about balisongs? Slightly slow to open, but strength should be exceptional at that point right?
A punyo strike is useless, unless it's a fixed blade. There are better striking attacks.
@@domokun3142 That's not entirely true. A heavy frame lock knife with a pommel protrusion can do serious damage
This video was great ! I'm a lefty , the S.O.G. Seal XR Flipper is my choice for EDC. For me the Seal XR is the best self defense / all around EDC knife I've experienced so far. 💯❤🔪‼️
Glad you enjoyed the video and I hope to see you around the channel more!
You're not a leftie!
Excellent vid, very informative. I'd like to see some about the new Cold Steel locks like the Atlas or the Demko. Also, I'd be cool if you could cover button locks, like are they as good as cross bar locks? Lastly I could suggest OTF knives I've always wanted to know exactly how they work inside and how safe are they compared to other opening mechanisms and locking types. Cheers!
I'm glad you enjoyed the video and I hope to see you around the channel again! I'll take your requests under advisement. Eventually I would like to procure an OTF with clear scales to show how they work!
Good video, welcome back. I prefer the ball bearing, compression, and tri-ad locks for my carry knives. All very strong. I do rotate in a few R.E.K.A.T. knives, but I can't recall the name of that locking mechanism. It's also quite strong.
Thanks, and glad to be back! The Tri-ad lock is one I'm not very familiar with and I need to pick one up to play with it. I haven't had the opportunity to play with any of the REKAT knives either.
Basically the Tri Ad Lock is a back lock but it is like the Hercules of back loxks. I have experienced a lock back fail with the lock release at the end of the handle by cutting with it in the blade up position pull towards myself and tne lock must have got squeezed because my thumb got cut with a Buck 110.
The Tri Ad Lock being in the center make a word of difference and the stop pin on a Tri Ad lock back I believe add to the lock life tremendously , I have never heard of one failing although there may be a few but I just have not heard of them.
It would be good to hear your thoughts on the Tri Ad Lock.
I don't have a Triad lock at the moment, but I'm looking to procure one in future so I can rip it apart and see how it works myself.
what about Cold Steel's tri ad lock?
I don't have one in my collection at the moment, so I can't show it. It's on my list to get for a follow up video.
It's good too
The Deadbolt-Lock, Atlas-Lock, Shark-Lock, and Tri-Ad Lock are the one's I feel are best for Self-Defense. You didn't mention or compare those... Have you tried them out? :-) Peace, Stiletto :-)
I have not. This video is by no means an exhaustive list. Once I have them in hand I will be sure to either remake this video, or post a followup.
The triad lock. Cold Steel nailed it.
I personally am absolutely SICK axis style locks. At least ones with omega springs (so most of them). Its no secret that omega springs have a tendency to break and that's my big problem with them. The only 2 I can think of that have gotten it right are the Benchmade Anthem and the Spyderco Manix 2. And yes I know they're not exactly the same but they're close enough for the comparison to work. They both have a coil spring rather than omegas which typically work better and longer. And at this point with well made button locks being able to be found in the budget range I think it's just about time to either adapt the axis style lock to a coil spring or for them to just kinda fall away. I know it's a hot take but I mean come on...would you rather deal with springs breaking and having to replace them or have a better system with the same basic function? I know what I'm picking.
Among others, my legal switcher is a liner/compression lock.
Manix 2 or CQC7? Thank you!
I don't have any hands-on experience with the Emerson CQC7, but here are my thoughts (for what they are worth) just looking at the pictures. If you like knives with the Emerson wave, then you are getting a knife from the original source of waves. Emerson has a good reputation for making good knives. It looks like the CQC7 is a liner lock, which I've never had an issue with, but I would prefer the ball mechanism in the Manix 2. I'm not a fan of the American tanto style tip the CQC7 has. It provides a very strong tip but it won't penetrate as well as the more acute tip of the Manix 2. The ability for the knife to penetrate well is more important to me than extra reinforcement of the tip. Personally I would select the Manix 2, but if you like the CQC7 it looks like it can get the job done as well.
Thanks for the great video. You did not discuss button locks. What are your thoughts on button lock knives?
I'm not a big fan of button locks for defensive use. Most of them aren't as strong as I would like, and its very easy to hit the button and release your lock. Just my preferences.
Cold steel tri-ad lock beats pretty much every other mechanism out there.
A Tri-ad locking blade is on my priority list to procure. I'd be happy for any recommendations.
@@TheKnifeLifeChannel depends. For a fighting knife I would recommend either the voyager vaquero, the talwar, the black talon 2 or maybe if you feel super fancy the kris ti lite or kris voyager. I get all mine serrated but they make a fine edge too, also depends on whether or not you want an emerson style opener as the voyagers and ti lites dont have them. Another classic would be the 6 inch hold out. Jimislash would be a good channel to check as he does a lot of unboxing and some functionality reviews. He's pretty funny too.
That manix have a Sabre grind?? That’s really nice! 🔪
Yes it does!
The Knife Life bad af! Hands down one of my favorite grinds! I recently got a para 3 lw from knivesplus that’s customized and I’m loving it my other spydie is the endrua 4 tactical with the Sabre grind and combo blade. I will have a police soon.
@@knifeguy9134 If you are looking for Spydercos to add to your collection, either the Yojimbo or the Yojumbo is an excellent addition. An interesting one that I don't think is made anymore is the Eurodagger. I have two on display in my collection to showcase the different fuller configurations on both sides.
Good information video!
I a big fixed blade guy but as you said legal issues come with carrying them that i don't have need to concern my self with folders especially if they 4" and under but in tje pocket any folder can ne carried in MD.
But we all know that knife shepple is always a concern.
As an auld fella, I love a simple back-lock. It's may be irrational of me, but I could never trust a liner-lock. Something like a Delica gives me everything I really need but you present a very logical critique. I also have learnt to respect the compression lock, but yes, my old Paramilitary 2 has way too little detent. Excellent work.
Thanks for commenting and I'm glad you enjoyed it.
If you hit a bone delica will break i think. Strong lock/blade for selfdefence
And a Strong tip you also need budget steel like aus8.8cr mo . Sandvik 12c27. S35vn and others are to brittle. I carry the Cold steel sr1 lite
I know your opinion isn't the end all be-all but it would have been nice to hear your final thoughts on which lock you thought was best
So excited!
Enjoy!
Like the video .. i always trust TRI-AD lock of andrew demeko . Otherwise it will be fixed blade knife
Glad you enjoyed it! I don't have Tri-Ad lock myself, otherwise I would have included it.
What about lever lock knives?
The McHenry-Williams lock, aka Axis Lock, is by far not reserved for Benchmade knives. The patent has ran out and allmost all chinese companies use the Axis Lock by now for any of their knives. Like Ganzo, DuraTech and a plethora of others.
The Axis Lock is by far the best lock. Ganzo for example has improved the Axis Lock to an "auto adjustable axis lock". It has converted the Axis Lock into an Tri-Ad Lock which is as well auto adjustable. Ganzos axis lock has a few milimeters of room foreward when fully opened the blade and the blade has more room to allow for more foreward movement of the axis bar. As things eventually wear out there is more room for the axis bar to creep foreward onto the back of the blade. As well the cut outs of the handle where the axis bar is riding in is turned down geometrically just a tad in order to force an downward position while having left plenty of foreward room to make up of eventually wear out situations over decades. I have not seen any wear at all on my Ganzo 729 which is an Paramilitary 2 hommage but with axis lock.
I bet Ganzo has made an improved Axis Lock which beats all other locking systems hands down. I would not be surprised if the McHenry-Williams lock would become the standard over time allways if it can beat the cheapness to manufacture of the liner lock.
Liner locks chew through over time. In 1 to 3 years I have seen an frame lock chew through to the other side causing blade wobble and an Gerber EAB I used for 1 year chew through as well it's liner lock and developed blade wobble up and down.
Button locks are prone to develop blade wobble as well since tolerances have to be very tight on that type of lock in order to work propperly.
Do not look further, just buy a knife with the Axis Lock. Just the axis lock is not very playable and can be stiff often - which is a good thing. Knives are not to play around, open and close in front of your buddies or to kill time but rather only to open if you wanna use it. Knives are not toys to play around open and close endlessly. So an stiff Axis Lock is just fine for everybody.
Slick lock back is the best.wrist action does it all.
Thanks for sharing!
CRKT Crawford Kasper👍
That what I carry daily . It's old , made in Taiwan . Only seen a couple on UA-cam videos . Think they are still made , but in China .
Interesting..... why did he leave out the strongest lock on the market.... the Cold Steel Tri Ad lock. It certainly is not a conventional lock back. I wonder why he would omit this lock.
Long story short? I'm not familiar enough with the Tri Ad lock in order to do it justice and need to spend some time disassembling and researching it. There are a number of other locks missing from this video as well that I will be sure to address in another video.
@@TheKnifeLifeChannel the cold steel catalogs actually explain how it works. And their iron proof videos actually show how tough their lockups are.
Wondering the same thing. From the videos I've seen on this channel, Spiderco is the preferred product of discussion. And yes, leaving out one of the best AND most popular knife locks (if not the best knife lock) on the market today, the triad lock from this "knife lock video", to me, makes this video pretty incomplete in it's informational value...
@@TheKnifeLifeChannel hard to comprehend, how could you not have researched the incredibly strong and vastly popular triad before making this video? I do like your channel but, your product preference here is pretty obvious. Hey, I like them too. But not exclusively...
im currently thinking about purchasing a demko ad 20.5 with the shark lock. mostly will be used for everyday tasks but would also be used for self defense if needed. will the shark lock be good for self defense in your opinion? @The Knife Life
I am not familiar with the Shark lock, so I can't give you a good recommendation on that . I'll be sure to look into it.
I currently carry a lock back and axis locking knives. My go to is a endura tactical with the Sabre grind and combo blade, I also carry the folding SOCP as my self defense blade. 🇺🇸🤙🏻
Both are solid choices. Its hard to go wrong with Spyderco and Benchmade.
Yo what's the tojimbo 2 look alike
That's probably the Blackhawk Bewharned, the Yojimbo 2's predecessor and Mike Janich's improvement on his original Yojimbo design.
@@TheKnifeLifeChannel Now it's a classic and probably impossible to find and purchase.
Yeah that one had a Liner Lock ,so tje locking system is upgraded as well as otjer parts.
using diagrams or holding knife examples while explaining would be helpful
for a SDK frame lock is the best way to go !
Well like I mentioned in the video a good frame-lock can be a good defensive knife. But the design can be weaker than some of the other mechanisms such as the Axis or Compression locks.
Only TriAd locks for me, and maybe the Yojimbo 2
Whatever is the best solution for you. The axis locks are ones I haven't had the opportunity to work with, but they are on my list of locks to obtain.
Am I correct to guess that button lock is definitely a bad option?
I wouldn't recommend it myself, but the decision is yours. The question is if you think the button lock is sufficiently strong, and if it is far enough out of the way you won't hit it during an encounter.
The axis lock, you only have to pull down on one side. Unless that knife is different from every other Benchmade.
How do lockbacks wear out when u have 40 year old buck 110s ....
An important thing to remember is that all knives wear out eventually. It depends upon the use of the blade. My Spyderco's are subjected to some really aggressive openings. Inertial openings are pretty hard on knives. If you practice deploying your defensive blade repeatedly like you should, you will see wear over time. Lockbacks rely on the angle of the tang and the blocking bar matching up correctly. If it wears out, then its easy to overpower the lock. I don't use my Buck knife for the same application, nor do most buck owners. They typically experience a pretty soft two handed opening to perform some task. Nor do I practice deployments with my buck. The lock will still wear out over time from steel rubbing on steel, but it will take a lot longer.
Also, do you like big Flipper Tabs on Knives with weaker lock types like Liner and Frame-Lock and Plunge-Lock Folders? Myself, I don't care for the weaker lock types, unless they have a large flipper tab that protects my digits if the lock fails.. :-) Peace, Stiletto :-)
It's got to be legal for a start. Want a small blade that opens quick and stays locked.
Legality is probably one of the most important but most overlooked considerations.
Demko/triad lock
Thanks for commenting!
In my experience (and opinion), lock backs are only an issue among a particular demographic. That would be the pretentious knife snob that never does any disdains the use of a second hand. Which is ironic, because this same group ( generally speaking) never does any real knife work. Unless one considers relentless fidgeting, the cutting of hard broiled eggs for their Cob salad, and the occasional Amazon package “real” knife work. ; )
I'm just playing, so no body needs to get wrapped around the axle.
Your music is too damn loud!
The first step is being stupid enough to think that a knife is a good self defense option.
THE KINFE BUTTERFLAU TOKISU ITALI .............................👹👹👹👹👹👹👹