Transform a CHEAP hammer into a GREAT first blacksmithing hammer! | Start blacksmithing
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- Опубліковано 29 сер 2024
- 2nd video in the "Start Blacksmithing" series. In this video I show how to take an inexpensive cross peen hammer and dress it so that it will work well as a general forging hammer. I also show how to modify a hammer that may be too heavy, so that you can hammer longer without as much fatigue.
HF cross peen hammer:
www.harborfrei...
This is such an insightful video for beginners such as myself. I was set on a lighter hammer, but I never considered buying the heavier hammer and cutting off the excess. Not only will that give me a bit of steel to work with, it will allow me to get precisely the shape and weight that I want. Thanks for the good ideas
Glad you learned something useful!
Just got my Mr. Volcano Hero 2-burner forge yesterday and now looking for tools I can afford. Your video is perfect timing!
Great, good luck getting started! I'm hoping to publish a new video soon on a good first forging project.
Great video. I really enjoy restoring and modifying old hammers. I like linseed oil for the handles.
Absolutely, about half of the hammers I use have been restored----it is a fantastic way to get a quality tool without spending much money!
Nice upgrade for the harbor freight hammer!
Thanks, I appreciate your comment!
OK - you cut off a 1/2 pound of metal off the end - why not take about that much off behind the head and leave it "long" rather than "short" as in when you cut it off.
Would that make it easier to use - as it is longer but lighter and still have the same rebound?
Yes, that may be a good approach w/different style of hammer. Hammers of this style have very little mass in the peen. Removing mass there would reduce the weight very little and quickly make the peen unusable. Removing metal from the face makes an ugly hammer, but does not really reduce usability. The short hammer actually has a long history, check out cat's head hammers and Hofi hammers.
Don’t cut any off. Unless you want to reharden it. They only harden 3/8-1” back. The rest is soft
Only the first inch is hardened . You cut the hardness off.
Potentially true if the hammer was induction hardened. Since it was a very cheap, mass-produced hammer I was banking on through hardening, if it was properly heat treated at all. Either way, it held up fine for the 3 forging projects I tested it on. The face did get a bit dinged up, but all cheap hammers are a bit soft in my experience. Thanks for your comment!
@@ravensroostforge cheap stuff has less tempering and less hardness. Even expensive ones are only gonna go back an inch. They are not gonna harden the whole thing. If you harden the whole entire thing impact will crack it at the eye.
With so much of the hammer's mass being on the top side, did it feel awkward to swing? Any control issues?
It is similar to the feel of a Hofi style hammer. I didn't find it difficult to get used to, it is fairly comfortable to use.
Instead of saying you calculated how many inches of material did you remove?
If I recall correctly I removed roughly 3/4" (20mm).
What grit did you use on the flat disc to polish the hammer??
I believe it was a 120 grit, I usually don't go too high with grits for general forging.
How about you just buy a hammer that is the weight you are looking for...job done!
If you want to do things on the cheap you have to do some extra work sometimes. That is always the trade-off, time vs money...
I have been a blacksmith for over 18 years, I just dont see the point of this, but to each there own I guess@@ravensroostforge
That is a HUGE vise.
The blue one? It's Harbor Frieght vise, it is an excellent value!