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Raven's Roost Forge
United States
Приєднався 1 вер 2018
This channel is devoted to blacksmithing, bladesmithing, and related crafts. We can explore the craft together through tutorials, builds, experiments and much more!
Stop quenching your knives in vegetable oil! Experiments in DIY quench oils. | Heat Treatment
In this video, I put a variety of quenching media to the test on water hardening steels (1095/W1). In addition to the usual suspects such as water and vegetable oil, I test out pure mineral oil and several home-brew cocktails. The Rockwell hardness test results for all the experiments are shared at the conclusion of the video. The outcome may surprise you and change the way you harden your knives and tools from now on! Take your knifemaking, bladesmithing, and blacksmithing to the next level with this valuable heat treatment information.
Check out Knife Steel Nerds video ua-cam.com/video/Vdy0nvVEtJY/v-deo.htmlsi=8qHvanrRymCCeref which explores related information and is an excellent additional resource.
Check out Knife Steel Nerds video ua-cam.com/video/Vdy0nvVEtJY/v-deo.htmlsi=8qHvanrRymCCeref which explores related information and is an excellent additional resource.
Переглядів: 1 092
Відео
Hand Finishing a Blacksmith Knife! | Start Blacksmithing
Переглядів 1,7 тис.5 місяців тому
11th and final video in the "Start Blacksmithing" series. In this video I demonstrate how to heat treat and finish the blacksmith knife forged in the previous video. I will rely on inexpensive tools and hand finishing techniques that are budget friendly and within reach of the beginner blacksmith or bladesmith.
Forge a Blacksmith Knife! | Start Blacksmithing
Переглядів 2,2 тис.7 місяців тому
10th video in the "Start Blacksmithing" series. In this video you will learn how to make an all steel one piece blacksmith knife using 1/2" W1 round stock with the tools and techniques explored in previous videos. In the next video in this series I will demonstrate how to file, polish, heat treat and sharpen the knife made in this video.
Forge your first blacksmith tongs today! | Start blacksmithing
Переглядів 2,1 тис.Рік тому
9th video in the "Start Blacksmithing" series. In this video you will learn how to make a basic pair of blacksmith tongs with 1/2" round stock using basic tools and techniques. These tongs can be adjusted to securely hold round and square stock up to about 1/2" in size. In the next video in this series I will demonstrate how to make a blacksmith knife using these tongs and other tools created i...
Forge your first project--make a coal rake! | Start blacksmithing
Переглядів 1,7 тис.Рік тому
8th video in the "Start blacksmithing" series. This is the first forging project, in this video I will show how to forge a coal rake from a length of 1/2" rebar. To make today's project I use the hammer, anvil, and forge created in previous videos from the series. In the next video I will demonstrate how to forge a pair of blacksmith tongs.
Blacksmith hammering techniques | Start blacksmithing
Переглядів 2,7 тис.Рік тому
The 7th video in the "Start Blacksmithing" series. In this short video I cover the basic blacksmith hammer techniques, with a bonus including the clothing and PPE I use when forging. I included links to a few videos that go into more detail about hammer efficiency, mechanics, and other techniques: ua-cam.com/video/ivmXu5jr-JI/v-deo.html ua-cam.com/video/9hYDcySEFsQ/v-deo.html ua-cam.com/video/J...
Hardening a mild steel stump anvil! | Start blacksmithing
Переглядів 4,4 тис.Рік тому
6th video in the "Start Blacksmithing" series. In the previous video I was unable to harden the stump anvil I just built... In this video I will show you a method for how I was able to harden the anvil by case hardening. I did it with a homemade casing compound that is cheap, easy to source, and safer than commercially available mixtures.
Heat treating and mounting a stump anvil | Start blacksmithing
Переглядів 8 тис.Рік тому
5th video in the "Start Blacksmithing" series. In this video I cover how to heat treat and mount the stump anvil built in the previous video.
Turn a JUNK sledge hammer into an anvil! | Start blacksmithing
Переглядів 9 тис.Рік тому
4th video in the "Start Blacksmithing" series. In this video I will show you how to build a stump anvil using an old sledge hammer head, a bolt, and a railroad spike! In the next video I'll show you how to heat treat and mount it.
Build your own forge using a charcoal grill! | Start blacksmithing
Переглядів 18 тис.Рік тому
3rd video in the "Start Blacksmithing" series. In this video I will show you how to build a solid fuel forge with a few common tools, a cheap table top charcoal grill and kitty litter.
Transform a CHEAP hammer into a GREAT first blacksmithing hammer! | Start blacksmithing
Переглядів 14 тис.Рік тому
2nd video in the "Start Blacksmithing" series. In this video I show how to take an inexpensive cross peen hammer and dress it so that it will work well as a general forging hammer. I also show how to modify a hammer that may be too heavy, so that you can hammer longer without as much fatigue. HF cross peen hammer: www.harborfreight.com/hand-tools/hammers-pry-bars/3-lb-hardwood-cross-pein-hammer...
What tools do I NEED to start blacksmithing??? | Start blacksmithing
Переглядів 7 тис.Рік тому
This is the first video from @ravensroostforge and the 1st video in the "Start Blacksmithing" series! This video will cover the basic tools you will want in order to start blacksmithing. This is going to be part of a video series about how to start as a blacksmith if you don't have tools or previous experience. respirator: www.harborfreight.com/n95-respirator-masks-2-pack-61438.html respirator:...
Old Blacksmith told me to make all my tools,.... Now Id rather make tongs its just satisfying.
Tongs are a great skill builder too!
I love that you can't afford an old anvil that been used 100 years ago and use any near by scarp tools and made an anvil and it's easy to use and buy from an local hardware store, great work
Glad you liked the video!
if you need to know this is what you need: 1 ¼ pipe fittings 1 flange 1 3 way 2 close nipples 1 6” nipple 1 cap flame glo grilling 14 inch round table grill Small hand cranked blower 10” 12” ½ rebar Natural clay kitty litter
Great resource. Thanks for taking the time to create it!
@@ravensroostforge no problem.
Love the video! I'm new to quenching and I wonder about tempering back the hardness. Most finished knives I've seen have been tempered back to well below 60. If mineral oil gets us to 60 HRC, is there any advantage to getting the blade harder than 60, with a different quenchenat perhaps, prior to tempering it back? Thank you for making this video.
I am not an expert, but my understanding is thus. Ideally you want the highest hardness reasonably attainable. You then temper back to the desired hardness, which relieves stress and creates the most uniform microstructure. If the as quenched steel is already the final hardness it means it did not fully transform. If you use it as is then the internal stresses and non uniformity will result in sub optimal performance and increased risk of warping and cracking.
@@ravensroostforge Thanks for the response. As a first knife quenchenat would you recommend the mineral oil? Or should ai just bite the bullet and get some Parkes?
Speaking of tedious tasks, I learned about progressive sanding techniques on the odd occasion that I had to repair case damage to ebony high polish polyester resin piano finishes. Changing direction of your strokes for each successive grit is a great suggestion and way to expose your progress. Piano technicians have to tolerate extreme repetition of many different steps in rebuilding and repairing and learning to great patience and persistence can separate the best from those whose work is pedestrian at best. It’s obvious to me that you have conquered yourself in your knife making pursuits. Bravo ! and thanks for the well narrated video.
You bet----hand sanding and polishing is always a bit mind-numbing, but you can't argue with the results. I'm glad you enjoyed the video!
Thanks for posting! I am building a much larger forge with two burners, but was unsure how to build the air input etc. Now I am ready to start! Nice video.
Glad I could help!
Only the first inch is hardened . You cut the hardness off.
Potentially true if the hammer was induction hardened. Since it was a very cheap, mass-produced hammer I was banking on through hardening, if it was properly heat treated at all. Either way, it held up fine for the 3 forging projects I tested it on. The face did get a bit dinged up, but all cheap hammers are a bit soft in my experience. Thanks for your comment!
@@ravensroostforge cheap stuff has less tempering and less hardness. Even expensive ones are only gonna go back an inch. They are not gonna harden the whole thing. If you harden the whole entire thing impact will crack it at the eye.
ua-cam.com/video/aqR4_UoBIzY/v-deo.html Would this material be good to use for the firepot?
It would probably work for a short time, but the material would be consumed with prolonged exposure to the intense heat of a forge fire. The outer layer essentially forms charcoal upon heating.
This is such an insightful video for beginners such as myself. I was set on a lighter hammer, but I never considered buying the heavier hammer and cutting off the excess. Not only will that give me a bit of steel to work with, it will allow me to get precisely the shape and weight that I want. Thanks for the good ideas
Glad you learned something useful!
It's funny, my grocery store was clearing some of those bbqs out for $10 and I picked one up with the intention of using it for this. I've also picked up a 22lb anvil and a 2.5lb hammer with a tapered end on one side. I'll definitely try this method. Another thing you could use instead of the broken up bricks is lava rock. It's maybe $5 or $10 for a decent sized bag
The lava rock is an excellent idea!
Adapting this for my 18" square grill. Got the pipe fittings, and just picked the same variety of kitty litter from Wally World.
Great, you'll be forging in no time!
Good video.
Glad you enjoyed it.
useful stuff thankyou atleast now I know what I did wrong with my last file knife...I quenched in vegetable oil and its not hard enough , it taks an edge but doesnt keep it long....trouble is I didnt find out untill after I glued the handle scales on..... Thanks for sharing
I'm glad you got something useful from the video. It's always a bummer when a project doesn't come out as planned, but everything is a learning process. I'm sure your next knife will turn out great!
Obligatory comment.
Thanks, every comment helps drive engagement, obligatory or not.
Maineah?
I'm sure what you are asking...
@@ravensroostforge you from Maine? I thought I recognized an accent. I could’ve been hearing things.
What kind of pen is that to mark on metal so easily?
That is a Markal Silver Streak.
@@ravensroostforge thank you!!!
Ergonomic technique is essential for longevity so thanks for this and the links. I'm as old as your dad and know all about tennis elbow and wrist strain.
I'm glad you learned something useful!
OK - you cut off a 1/2 pound of metal off the end - why not take about that much off behind the head and leave it "long" rather than "short" as in when you cut it off. Would that make it easier to use - as it is longer but lighter and still have the same rebound?
Yes, that may be a good approach w/different style of hammer. Hammers of this style have very little mass in the peen. Removing mass there would reduce the weight very little and quickly make the peen unusable. Removing metal from the face makes an ugly hammer, but does not really reduce usability. The short hammer actually has a long history, check out cat's head hammers and Hofi hammers.
Don’t cut any off. Unless you want to reharden it. They only harden 3/8-1” back. The rest is soft
A project that I will work on. Thank you sir for the vedio and also would like to request for a list of meterial used.
I'll try to work on a list and post in the description when I'm able.
Believe it or not, you can use fresh horse manuer as a binder. Old foundry men from the 18th and 19th century used it. The Japanese use rice husk.
That would likely make the tuyere a lot more durable. Use it if you've got it...
Kitty litter is sourhern bentonite
That is my understanding too. The main reason for using it is that it is cheap, available, and can handle the heat.
With so much of the hammer's mass being on the top side, did it feel awkward to swing? Any control issues?
It is similar to the feel of a Hofi style hammer. I didn't find it difficult to get used to, it is fairly comfortable to use.
I think this skill is necessary for carpenters since quality hand tools are not very cheap.
Having the ability to make and repair your own tools is indeed one of the greatest advantages of learning blacksmithing.
@@ravensroostforge Can't agree more. Just restored my wornout pry bar in the weekend by heating, bending, grinding and quenching. Saved me 30 bucks buying a new one.
Wasted alot of tome assembling the grill.WE JUST WANNA SEE THE FIRE AND RED HOT METAL.
Good point, thanks for the feedback 👍
Nah assembling was needed, how else will we know how to build what we came here for. Great video
Nice idea on a drum and brake rotor I have those ..but i think i will just push air into drum and let ash fall into bottom perhaps into a pan that drum goes over and have rotor able to rotate on a plate with holes that match up or not when spun to adjust if necessary no pipe, no bolts, 30 minutes 🤞 😄
Great idea. Try it and see how it works.
Hi friend. Are you able to make one of this for me ? , or is this knife available to buy ?
Thanks for your interest, but I'm not making these for purchase at the moment. I think I may do a giveaway for this blade after I hit 1000 subscribers. Keep your eye out for it.
*BOOM* i'm number 50
Hope you enjoyed the video.
Nice work
Thanks
Hey man, thanks for the great vid. Also wanted to comment and say that the changes you made to your voice over recording sound really great.
Thanks, I appreciate the feedback!
Instead of saying you calculated how many inches of material did you remove?
If I recall correctly I removed roughly 3/4" (20mm).
I was thinking the tempering was unnecessary. It would have been interesting to see what the hardness was before you began, and again after the quench.
I ended up needing to case harden, turns out the sledge was actually a mild steel mallet. The next video in the series goes over the case hardening and I'm pretty sure I included hardness test results.
Very good information here. I would recommend using cutting fluid liberally with any drilling operation. I bought a 12lb. Harbor Freight sledge just to make a stump anvil out of, but I already have 2 full size anvils, plus one made from fork lift tines, so I never did use the sledge hammer for one.
You're right it's never a bad idea to use cutting fluid, and I'm glad you found it informative.
Good technique for beginners. Cheers for posting it!
Glad it was helpful!
Great job. Really enjoyed the processes.
Glad you enjoyed it!
Good video. Instructions are clear, one of the best on youtube.
Glad it was helpful!
That is a HUGE vise.
The blue one? It's Harbor Frieght vise, it is an excellent value!
Nicely explained. I especially liked the illustration. The impressive thing is showing small scale smithing and how very possible things are without huge equipment.
Thank you very much!
I was wondering about the hardness of the hammer, because I made 2 anvils from a sledge hammer last year and it took 1/2 day to cut in half and a good part of another day to dome one face. That hammer was hardened right through. The way you added the stake is cool. Did you consider a longer stake to create clearance for raising work?
The hammer I used turned out to be mild steel... I just assumed it was a hardenable steel because soft iron hammers are not very common. I had to case harden it to make it usable. I don't really do any raising, so I wouldn't want to reduce rigidity by attaching a stem to it. You certainly could make a multi-part anvil using the same technique I did in order to make it taller.
How about you just buy a hammer that is the weight you are looking for...job done!
If you want to do things on the cheap you have to do some extra work sometimes. That is always the trade-off, time vs money...
I have been a blacksmith for over 18 years, I just dont see the point of this, but to each there own I guess@@ravensroostforge
What grit did you use on the flat disc to polish the hammer??
I believe it was a 120 grit, I usually don't go too high with grits for general forging.
I'm confused, why would you not just heat treat and the temper this anvil? In my experience it would have saved you a lot of time and end with a much better result. Unless, of course, this was a mild steel that you started with, and if so I hope you have at least learned to use the right steel for the project you are working on at the moment.
I didn't know the origin of the sledge head, I just picked it up in a lot with other hammer heads. It must have been a mallet made from mild steel, I could not get it to harden. I did not check hardenability ahead of time because steel mallets are a fairly uncommon specialty use tool----so I just didn't expect it. No harm done, just gave me the chance to show a technique for case hardening.
@@ravensroostforge Gotcha, yep makes sense now, ty
.
I think before you started, you should have got the rust off the rebar. Maybe it would have made a difference in the end piece, maybe not, but it is good practice to do in blacksmithing to do so. It was certainly a helpful tool for you to add to your arsenal of tools.
Thanks for the comment. Don't worry though, surface rust is not typically an issue when forging. At forging temperatures, fire scale (black iron oxide) is created during each heat with exposure to air and any rust is incorporated into the scale. Since fire scale is impossible to avoid, there is minimal benefit to spending time on surface prep prior to forging.
@@ravensroostforgeI agree
Thanks for the video
Glad to you enjoyed it!
Nice build! Just a suggestion though, I would have added a metal covering over the wood to help resist burning 🔥
That is a good idea, if this was more of permanent set up I would maybe do that.
thank you for posting this.
You're welcome!
what was the mixture of the case hardening marterial
Roughly 80% charcoal powder + 20% sodium carbonate (washing powder) , then you add a binder so that it holds its shape when it dries. I just use plain white flour, it works well because it is also a carbon source like the charcoal. The amount of binder is not critical, I usually add a lot----anywhere from 25-50% added to the weight of the charcoal/carbonate mix
You can also drill & chisel a depression into the stump, sink the head in, and get it tight with a wedge. Or make some sort of a bracket that first trough the eye so you can secure it with lagscrews. Those seem a bit easier to me at a first glance. Great video either way i would never have thought of that method.
The main reason I used this method was because I had an old mount that I could reuse, and I didn't have a solid piece of wood on hand that was big enough. Mounting directly into a solid piece, as you mentioned would have been preferable.
After halfway it sounded like a cd found in the floorboards during the 90s
I'll try to work on my audio quality.
Hey noob here, what does the clay, kitty litter and crushed fire brick do?
The basin of the BBQ is too large for the size fire needed, plus the walls are too thin to stand up to the heat. So the the kitty litter slurry forms the correct size and shape of the firepot while also being able to handle the heat. The broken up fire brick just takes up space so that you don't need as much of the litter mixture. It can be done without the fire brick if you want.
Another great Video. Keep them coming you are really teaching me a lot!
Thanks, I appreciate it. Going to try to post up the first forging project in the series soon, be on the lookout!