The fact that you defiantly throw out an ordinary soldering iron, without even giving any arguments, is simply stupid and does not motivate to watch the video further. A set of 2-3 such simple soldering irons of different power + dimmer make it possible to solder absolutely the same thing that a soldering station for a thousand dollars is capable of, and most likely even more.
I think you are misinformed. A Weller soldering station can be had for $100 nowadays, or even a Hakko is affordable. You would have learned this had you continued to watch the video. I'm not sure where you are getting the figure of $1,000. Learning to solder with a properly temperature controlled station, teaches you how it *should* work, and how *easily* it can be done. Advising a newcomer to purchase 3 irons of different power ratings, that are "temperature controlled" via a dimmer... well, this is a family show, so I'll keep it to myself. But I'll leave you to the process of swapping your plugs. Have a good day.
The $ 1000 example wasn't about Weller in your video. And whatever is in the video, you can't buy any new Weller with automatic temperature stabilization for $ 100, which you yourself know very well. It will be several times more expensive. Buying, for example, a supported station or, God forbid, a Chinese analogue is a very dubious decision for beginners. Then puzzle yourself over the question of why it does not work somehow, try to reanimate old stings or look for and buy new ones, and then a heater, etc. - it doesn't look easy. $ 1,000 is roughly double the price of the new Hakko station with cartridge tip technology. Depending on the tasks, you can use 1-3 soldering irons to complete all the soldering that such a station can do, and even more. It's funny when your $ 400-500 station can't handle some kind of cooling radiator, and you still have to buy that very simple 80-100W soldering iron to solder it. Or when you simply cannot solder something that requires acid, for fear of ruining the sting to your station, which you have been looking for for a long time and paid dearly. I am always amused by talking about temperature control, as if it were something that makes soldering in itself more efficient and safer. Ok, let's talk a little about this. Soldering temperature, for example 60/40 tin-lead solder about 392 degrees Fahrenheit (or 200 Celsius). Do you solder yourself or did you see someone soldering the tip at such temperatures? No, even at powerful 90-Watt stations, the temperature is set on the sting much higher, because the "thermostable" station cannot keep the temperature under load. Stations, where the sensor is not physically combined with the heater and is located far from it, especially suffer from the inability to maintain the temperature, which is why you simply cannot unsolder the smd from the motherboard or anything massive with them. The operator has to set 750-930 degrees so that such a soldering iron can finally warm up the heat-intensive area. Again, this is not easy for a beginner, and here we have many cases of overheating of parts and boards. It's like trying to open a tin can with a blunt knife - the likelihood of getting hurt increases. On the contrary, if you take an ordinary soldering iron with a massive heat-capacious tip, then the heat stored in it is often enough to warm up at an adequate tip temperature, where a "thermostable" soldering iron cannot cope.
Put some flux on my girlfriend's joint tonight and brought the heat, eventually ( minutes later ) making a solid connection once she wicked in my rosin. I could not have done it without this very informative video.
Thanks for your time mate. I'm a 54-year-old Aussie and I've never been a DIY guy but now I'm interested in doing some projects. Your video (and others) help those like me and youngins to learn these practical skills without searching for a one to one teacher (praise be to the Interweb and UA-cam, eh?). Anyway, just wanted to thank you for the time and effort that you put into making this video, it really helped me a lot. Cheers !!
Holy crap. I haven't studied how to interpret diode codes in about 4-decades. I'm browsing UA-cam trying to decide what kind of soldering kit to buy to repair a USB cable on a couple keyboards, and to have as a general tool for future projects. This vid brings back memories from when I was a kid.
Thank you so much for this video, i'm a pc repair tech, which in general does not require these skills (in some cases like a broken charge port can. I decided I needed to up my skills to the next level, and learn to solder, and do PCB work, so that one, I can play with all those cool Pi kits and stuff, but also start to work on repairing mac logic boards so that I have a more marketable skill down the line.
3:54 said, you would have found it at radio shack. Perfect past tense, wonder how long we will think of them as the goto. Thanks for all your precious time!!!
Adan M not when it takes 1-2 weeks for delivery and up charges for everything. Especially with the some times spotty customer service from 3rd party sellers.
So Coincidental I just came across a nearly full 8oz roll of 60/40. From Radio shack and felt some Nostalgia and the fact that same roll of solder is 4x more than is was back in 1989. I’m getting old .
Thanks nice video. Helpful and takes away some of the anxiety of beginning and knowing just enough that I over think and over compensate on things. I like your straight forward "no nonsense get after it" approach that taught me enough to know how much I need to learn still. Your adherence to professional pride and no short cuts, to do it right the first time make sense but also show professionalism and pride in what you do. A true and rare thing now days.
I'm glad I found your video. The Weekend Warrior flavor appeals to me. Excellent tempo, very good explanations,(no rambling) the strong critique of your own work/use of slightly improper procedures, extra touches for a clean/professional end result. I subscribed.
Thanks I like the close up on the board look real clean and professional. My hand shakes a little, had a stroke few years back but sense the covid thing I working on a DSO138 Digital Oscilloscope board trying keep from balling my solder. : )
Hey, just found your skillz/TCS site, hopefully not too late. I spent 25 years in the premier stock car racing biz, The Best Team. The last 5 yrs. pretty miserable. CNC, Fab and weld. When someone starts to dangle the carrot in front of you, its time to go. Do what you want to do, you dont need permission. I'll kick in what I can but, knowledge, its priceless. I enjoy learning a new skill from you. Thank You. Hope to see you around here, if you get the notion. AJM
The wire acts as a heat sink and protects the component and more control will reduce the chance for a bad joint. You'd have to have a pretty bad joint to be able to affect it with clippers.
Tam Railley, hi, this is the first time I have commented on anything but I was so impressed with your video I felt I had to. I have been soldering for years thinking twist the wires stick the iron against it melt the solder and that was it. After watching your your video, explaining how and why you do it I realise I knew nothing about soldering but now I am clued up, time to practice. GREAT VIDIO CHEERS am looking forward to watching more. Sorry for the long winded comment.
I gave up for the night on soldering but I'm sticking around and watching anyway because you're a total chill dude and exactly who I would picture doing this shit lol.
It would be nice if you explained the abbreviations you used at the beginning of the video for which types of parts would require a hot air station. The rest of the video was very good. I like your attention to detail about how to make it all look good when you are done. And showing examples of good joins vs. bad joins is very helpful.
Hi Derek, first of all I'm really grateful to Callum, DX COMMANDER, who introduced us to your channel, learned alot about soldering by watching this video, I may never do this fancy stuff(bcoz i dont know much about this IC programming stuff 😬)but it was real fun watching you doing all this... looking forward for videos especially Amateur Radio stuff....thanx
I'm always looking for ways to improve my technique and equipment. This is a good tutorial on basic circuit board soldering. We all have our own preferences and style and what works for me may not work or you but that doesn't mean my way is better than yours or anyone else. I do lay down flux before I solder and I have several styles of tweezers as many components are just easier to manipulate with a curved or 90° bend than straight point tweezers, at least for me. I use the same gun as you which I have had over 25 years...and I have never changed the tip! Thanks for your time and effort making this video 👍
Thanks for taking the time to explain more for us beginners. I've been lucky that people given me there old soldier guns. I think I've got quite a few different kinds now. They mostly work really well. I'm just toying around with different things to solder and replace burnt out components. I'm surprised you didnt show the different was to remove surface chips. Someone gave me a spring loaded light blue solder remover that sucks up the solder. I wonder what's it called. I don't plan on making a living from fixing and soldering broken parts just my own board that shorted out. I've always liked learning to fix things since I was a boy. It's nice to have someone take the time to explain what something are better then others. Thanks so much for your help. It's worth subscribing to your channel yep.
I did soldering as a job and I’m still intimidated by it ,as if I screwed up at work I’d just get bawled out but if I screw up on my own stuff it could cost me money . Self confidence is the thing
Hello Derek...Great video...great close ups...You are a great storyteller...! PS: When resistors and capacitors come in a tape, I Cut them Off. The glue from the tape can "contaminate" leads and holes and prevent a full solder joint. Delayed New Years Greetings from Denmark...!
The way you alternate pins on new IC'S has massively helped me, ive really learned a lot from your video, nexcellent,,, i got a Weller similar to yours from ebay it was quite a wanted item, but i won it roughly $50 US about £60 uk , its worth every penny...... thanks for ya video
I use a eutectic silver solder (silver, copper, tin & lead) for making audio cables. Requires a higher temp to work with, but the difference in capacitance and conductivity (and resistance) makes a huge difference when working with analog audio. Variations in resistance and capacitance between the wire, your connectors, and the soldered joints, will change the frequency of your signal. Higher capacitance cables tend to clip the high end (6khz-20khz range), creating a warmer, bottom end heavy sound (which can seem muddy)... while a lower capacitance helps maintain that high end frequency and comes across as more bright.
Q LMAO! The resistance of the solder is negligible, regardless of composition. And it can’t change the capacitance, since it’s not a dielectric (insulator) at all.
This is pretty old but I've been able to learn a lot from your video. I'm about to learn how to solder my first PCB for a mechanical keyboard. I'll either do a great job or I'll melt my face off with the flux cleaner 😁
@@AmRadPodcast that's the plan buddy. I've ordered 2 PCBs and a Weller soldering station from Amazon. This looks like a fun hobby to get into and I'll be checking out your videos several times for reference. A lot of people "talk" about soldering but you actually teach it. Thanks man 👍🏼
I bought the exact tool from the intro and found some trouble desoldering on a pc motherboard. Turned to the internet for some advice and I found this video xD
..... Man, why have I never thought about doing this stuff before always thought it was boring when people talked about it 😅 was offered a job long time ago to solder boards and passed it up this actually looks interesting.
You make it look and sound so simple, I can't tell you how many mobile phones and gadgets I have destroyed with my pathetic soldering jobs, I am not showing off but I have very expensive equipment and I am about to replace my charging port, I will follow your tips but I think by the end of the day there will be another mobile phone in my bin, here goes.....
KOOL vid man! I've been SODDERING (yes Mick, that's how it's pronounced!!) for about 52 years now, never too old to learn something new. Keep up the good work.
J Bienick. I think my 72 years trumps your 52 years, however how long each of us has been saying is totally irrelevant. Your still wrong. But what can you expect from the colonies. ( no nastiness intended).
20:00 high-reliability soldering standards (like NASA's) all say to never, ever cut through the solder fillet, as it could fracture it. Indeed, high-reliability standards say to cut and then solder, since this ensures there's no strain on the joint, and allows you to tin the cut end of the lead, protecting it from corrosion. As a bonus, because the precut leads are a smaller thermal mass, they also make the solder flow a teeny tiny bit better. (To be clear, though, for hobbyist stuff it doesn't make a rat's patoot of difference, and so at home I do whatever works better for that particular joint! :P )
Ducklord High-reliability electronics (aerospace, military, military, and to a lesser extent automotive) are still built to those standards. Those industries are FAR more conservative than regular electronics in every way imaginable, and that includes a) taking no chances on construction, and b) sticking with tried-and-true components LONG after those components stopped being used in mainstream electronics. (And no, in high reliability electronics, the choice of cutters and how to use them is not left to chance, either.)
Pros and cons, talking about hand soldering, repairs and prototypes, since SMD, pick & place and robotics have been the norm for the last three decades. Keeping the leads on while soldering reduces thermal stress on the part and reduces the chances of a bad joint. Both more difficult to diagnose and more likely to affect the end result.
Ducklord For mass production, pick and place/automatic insertion has been the norm since the 70s. But some components cannot be machine soldered, nor are one-off or small runs done by machine. Hand soldering is far from dead, especially in those industries. Not to mention that rework is done by hand. No idea where you got the idea that long leads are better for thermal stress: short leads let you get in and out quicker, reducing thermal stress.
@@tookitogo All components can be machine soldered. Many componts cannot be hand soldered, without unacceptable risk. You clearly have no experience, otherwise you'd know that thermal stresses are reduced by correct heat-sinking, which is a common process to do while hand soldering. A longer lead is a perfect small heat sink, and may actually have been factored in by the part mfg.
I stopped using the expensive flux removers some time ago and switched to IPA. Can't say I have had a residue problem. Wondering what percentage IPA you were using. I use the 99.9% and have no residue. Mike
+MikesRadioRepair interesting. I stopped using alcohol 15/20 years ago and don't recall the concentration, but was lab grade anyhow. Side by side comparison showed the flux remover was better looking. Whatever works best! 😀
In my workshop it's ipa all the way. I very rarely use RA flux though, I have a selection of fluxes with RA being reserved for dirty joints. 63/37 fast flow for anything new and occasionally a bit of future 315 to aid adhesion.
PS, at work I use an AOYUE model int701a++, a combination vacuum desoldering gun and a small soldering iron. The vacuum pump itself is extremely reliable (we have a number of dead Hakko's lying around at the shop); suction is excellent and I haven't had to do a damn thing to the vacuum pump for 3 years. (Fixing a Hakko desoldering pump will give you an ulcer). The earliest tip styles AOYUE made were of inferior metal and were short lived, and the quality control on the handheld guns for desoldering wasn't great, but both have been significantly improved since then; and the new long-lived desoldering tips have a little pipe or pippette sticking out, which is really handy for desoldering devices with small pins. The desoldering guns are extremely inexpensive, therefore it makes sense to buy 2 or 3 of them, and you can set them up with different size desoldering tips and merely swap the gun with the desired tip size into the pump as required for whatever you are working on. They do sell replacement heating elements but they are a major pain to swap, and the entire gun assembly costs only a little more than the element by itself. PS, Unlike the older Hakkos and Wellers, the 7 pin plug for swapping out the accessory irons on the AOYUE unit has never become intermittent or oxized..... I actually prefer my old 1980s Weller soldering station for most soldering work, and so I outfitted the AOYUE soldering pencil with a tiny pointed tip for the occasional ultralight soldering job.
I love my hakko fx888d. It has super good tempature holding. Compared to my at201d same tip, same temp. Touch both against a spounge. At201d drops instantly, going down to under 250c. Hakko dropped 20degrees and held. The Hakko fx888d has better tip thermo mass, and retains a set temp very well. Out of the box, with the t18,d16 tip, 350c, tested at 349. Deffenetly calibrated before it leaves QC.
Thank you for all the information I have just bought my first soldering station I bought a Weller 1010ea. I had thought about buying the hakko 888. However I've gotten a really good deal on the Weller I hope that it is a good station. I see you use one
i sorta hold stuff with my wrist/little finger side of my hand while feeding solder in with my fingers! it's really fun, almost like learning how to use chopsticks when you move one and hold the other steady!
I'm pretty much a beginner at soldering and have attempted to replace some parts and rewire my electric guitars. One guitar worked even though my soldering was a mess, and I messed up my other guitar completely so it doesn't work anymore and I'll have to strip it down and start again. You mentioned kits that you can practice your soldering on. What are they exactly and where can you buy them from? I'm in England by the way. I should be trying to improve my soldering skills and don't really want to mess up my guitar again, so those kits sound ideal for me. Cheers 👍
Great video. I know I'm a little late to the party, but the tips in here were great and obviously still relevant today. I keep hearing more about OSHpark and want to get some stuff done there. Just have to find some projects first :). When I clean the flux off my boards, I use a toothbrush. About once or twice a year, they do an insurance walkthrough at work and hand out crappy toothbrushes to everyone. I typically use those and electrical cleaner.
Great video, but for all that's sacred, clean your file! Automotive Brakleen works great. When I worked in the woods, I used starting fluid to clean my chainsaw files, because we always had some kicking around to start the skidder on cold mornings.
Good video, I have looked at 6 other videos this morning and personally I don't think They where as well demonstrated as this one. I have an Xbox one that needs repair and I believe it is the retimer chip (not sure if that is the correct name for it). I believe I should have everything to replace it with I just wanted to get some knowledge on flux and it's various forms and how to use it properly. Thanks again for a great video.
Stick the header in a breadboard and solder it on before the other parts (shim the main board opposite edge with another board if your main board has only one header) Perfectly vertical headers every time.
Thanks for the video. Helpful for a newbie. Through holes are tricky. Now I need to learn Eagle CAD so I can create my own custom boards as I have not a clue on how to do that. Hope you will do videos about that. Thanks for great video :-)
phillips4 Energy check out contextual electronics (Chris Gammell) channel (you prob already know of it.. but KiCAD is free and a pretty good place to start. Thought about doing a pcb series, but I’m a bit of a bull in a china closet when it comes to dealing with the UI. 😉
@@AmRadPodcast Allright thanks. Making a bee line to dig into this. If I can nail down creating my own custom boards it will open up a world of fun creative opportunities for my journey with electronics. Looking forward to going through your channel. Thanks much!!
I’m not that familiar with soldering jewelry, but I suppose it depends on the melting temp of the solder. Mine goes up to 850F which is more than enough for leaded solder, not safe for jewelry, but as I understand silver solder requires a flame to melt.
This is an old comment, but in case anyone else stumbles on this video as I have: My girlfriend is interested in jewelry soldering as well, and the temps involved can be much higher than those used for electronics work (up to 1,400 degrees Fahrenheit or more). Soldering irons for electronics usually don't get hot enough for jewelry work. It's also important to note that tin-based solders used in electronics are NOT compatible with jewelry soldering. The solder can pick up the silver from your work piece and create an alloy with a lower melting point, which will weaken the work piece and make it hard to solder anything else near that area (I think it damages your soldering iron's tip in the process).
Nicely made. I'm a "soddering" (should I say the "L"? 🤷♂️) Virgin trying to learn the art to make my own paranormal equipment. I guess I got tired of buying stuff on Amazon for $189 when I could make the same thing for $22. Thanks- appreciate it. --Doc Lykins
Thanks! Fossils? Interesting! It's an old Canon Vixia HFR500 mounted to a microscope stand, but I wouldn't recommend it. It is terrible used as a standard video camera - edge optics are pretty bad when zoomed out. Its only saving grace is when you zoom in and macro automatically takes over (which is what I used for closeup soldering shots). I would recommend a modern DSLR and a decent macro lens.
@@AmRadPodcast Thank you for you rapido reply. Watching your video I would say the footage was rather good, but yes, the future beckons. The lighting over the circuit board was perfection and I wonder how you achieved that. I must go and practice. 👍🏻
Really really high quality tutorial. Just what I have been looking for seems like you could turn this/these walkthrough videos into a pretty thorough instructional series. My apologies if you did already I haven't looked but than again and I am now subscribed
An excellent tutorial. Thanks for your diction and pace. I look forward to the opportunity to view more. How might I correspond with you in confidence? Best regards.
I like your style explaining things, just great. What would be cool if possible to provide links to some of the tools you are using. Like the cutter you like or in other videos the pipe cutter you had. Some Amazon links or similar. Thanks for considering..
To remove flux, just use 90% rubbing alcohol available in grocery stores, pharmacies, walmart...cheap. Use a cotton swab or Qtip to apply and wick it up. Some fluxes have more sap content and may take a little soaking for 10 sec before it softens, especially if it is old old flux the factory never removed.
I was looking forward to find in the description a list of names or amazon links of all the tools you spoke about. That would be very much appreciated and could use affiliate links and help urself along with. Other than that, great vid!!! Keep up with the good work.
Yes. Depending on how sensitive the parts are, you may want to invest in ESD-safe gloves, though. (They're only trivially more expensive than regular gloves, they're just harder to find.)
Thanks for the video! I noticed you don't have one of the brass solder tip cleaners. Back when I learned to solder taking an electronics course, we just used a sponge, and I never had a problem doing it that way. Two hour lab three times a week soldering security system boards, and the tip on my Radio Shack 30 watt iron stayed in fine shape using just the dampened sponge. Maybe I missed it. When you were soldering the board, what was the tip temperature?
The reason the brass wool was introduced is because with the higher temperatures needed for lead-free soldering, the larger thermal shock of the damp sponge causes more micro-fractures in the tip plating, resulting in tips wearing out faster. (The thermal shock is actually what causes the damp sponge to remove the oxides, not the wiping motion itself.) The brass wool doesn't cause the same thermal shock, prolonging tip life.
The fact that you defiantly throw out an ordinary soldering iron, without even giving any arguments, is simply stupid and does not motivate to watch the video further.
A set of 2-3 such simple soldering irons of different power + dimmer make it possible to solder absolutely the same thing that a soldering station for a thousand dollars is capable of, and most likely even more.
I think you are misinformed. A Weller soldering station can be had for $100 nowadays, or even a Hakko is affordable. You would have learned this had you continued to watch the video. I'm not sure where you are getting the figure of $1,000. Learning to solder with a properly temperature controlled station, teaches you how it *should* work, and how *easily* it can be done. Advising a newcomer to purchase 3 irons of different power ratings, that are "temperature controlled" via a dimmer... well, this is a family show, so I'll keep it to myself. But I'll leave you to the process of swapping your plugs. Have a good day.
The $ 1000 example wasn't about Weller in your video. And whatever is in the video, you can't buy any new Weller with automatic temperature stabilization for $ 100, which you yourself know very well. It will be several times more expensive. Buying, for example, a supported station or, God forbid, a Chinese analogue is a very dubious decision for beginners. Then puzzle yourself over the question of why it does not work somehow, try to reanimate old stings or look for and buy new ones, and then a heater, etc. - it doesn't look easy.
$ 1,000 is roughly double the price of the new Hakko station with cartridge tip technology. Depending on the tasks, you can use 1-3 soldering irons to complete all the soldering that such a station can do, and even more. It's funny when your $ 400-500 station can't handle some kind of cooling radiator, and you still have to buy that very simple 80-100W soldering iron to solder it. Or when you simply cannot solder something that requires acid, for fear of ruining the sting to your station, which you have been looking for for a long time and paid dearly.
I am always amused by talking about temperature control, as if it were something that makes soldering in itself more efficient and safer. Ok, let's talk a little about this. Soldering temperature, for example 60/40 tin-lead solder about 392 degrees Fahrenheit (or 200 Celsius). Do you solder yourself or did you see someone soldering the tip at such temperatures? No, even at powerful 90-Watt stations, the temperature is set on the sting much higher, because the "thermostable" station cannot keep the temperature under load. Stations, where the sensor is not physically combined with the heater and is located far from it, especially suffer from the inability to maintain the temperature, which is why you simply cannot unsolder the smd from the motherboard or anything massive with them. The operator has to set 750-930 degrees so that such a soldering iron can finally warm up the heat-intensive area. Again, this is not easy for a beginner, and here we have many cases of overheating of parts and boards. It's like trying to open a tin can with a blunt knife - the likelihood of getting hurt increases. On the contrary, if you take an ordinary soldering iron with a massive heat-capacious tip, then the heat stored in it is often enough to warm up at an adequate tip temperature, where a "thermostable" soldering iron cannot cope.
Put some flux on my girlfriend's joint tonight and brought the heat, eventually ( minutes later ) making a solid connection once she wicked in my rosin. I could not have done it without this very informative video.
I was shocked when the video ended prematurely. I didn't want it to end........
Thanks for your time mate. I'm a 54-year-old Aussie and I've never been a DIY guy but now I'm interested in doing some projects. Your video (and others) help those like me and youngins to learn these practical skills without searching for a one to one teacher (praise be to the Interweb and UA-cam, eh?). Anyway, just wanted to thank you for the time and effort that you put into making this video, it really helped me a lot. Cheers !!
Holy crap. I haven't studied how to interpret diode codes in about 4-decades. I'm browsing UA-cam trying to decide what kind of soldering kit to buy to repair a USB cable on a couple keyboards, and to have as a general tool for future projects. This vid brings back memories from when I was a kid.
Excellent example of proper use of an iron, and solder.
Your video really helps to demystify the whole process.
Thank you so much for this video, i'm a pc repair tech, which in general does not require these skills (in some cases like a broken charge port can. I decided I needed to up my skills to the next level, and learn to solder, and do PCB work, so that one, I can play with all those cool Pi kits and stuff, but also start to work on repairing mac logic boards so that I have a more marketable skill down the line.
Good shit my guy!! You are on your shit never stop growing man
An excellent video where a 'regular' guy simply explains things without trying to sound like a Know-it-all. I actually learned quite a bit. Thank you!
Glad you learned something - and glad I didn't come off as a know it all!
3:54 said, you would have found it at radio shack. Perfect past tense, wonder how long we will think of them as the goto. Thanks for all your precious time!!!
Lord all mighty...Do I MISS Radio Shack!
There are still Radio Shacks around. We have at least 2 around me in NC within 10 miles.
Good riddance. I like my hometown local electronic shop the best.
Adan M not when it takes 1-2 weeks for delivery and up charges for everything. Especially with the some times spotty customer service from 3rd party sellers.
So Coincidental I just came across a nearly full 8oz roll of 60/40. From Radio shack and felt some Nostalgia and the fact that same roll of solder is 4x more than is was back in 1989. I’m getting old .
Thanks nice video. Helpful and takes away some of the anxiety of beginning and knowing just enough that I over think and over compensate on things. I like your straight forward "no nonsense get after it" approach that taught me enough to know how much I need to learn still. Your adherence to professional pride and no short cuts, to do it right the first time make sense but also show professionalism and pride in what you do.
A true and rare thing now days.
nothing can be more clearer than this ...there is a lot learning comfort
This video made me feel much better about picking up Soldering as a new skill.
Yes, always clip before soldering. Not only cleaner and neater, but you don't shock the joint, leaving potential failure later on.
Finally a zoomed in how to video for noobs! Thanks bro!😁
+Matt thanks glad you found it useful
Super, ua-cam.com/video/KQc7t6osM_s/v-deo.html
I'm glad I found your video. The Weekend Warrior flavor appeals to me. Excellent tempo, very good explanations,(no rambling) the strong critique of your own work/use of slightly improper procedures, extra touches for a clean/professional end result. I subscribed.
Super video...I train my subs on how to solder and clean and what not...industrial place....and this is the best i have seen...fantastic!!!!
Thanks I like the close up on the board look real clean and professional. My hand shakes a little, had a stroke few years back but sense the covid thing I working on a DSO138 Digital Oscilloscope board trying keep from balling my solder. : )
Awesome. Good luck!!!!
Hey, just found your skillz/TCS site, hopefully not too late. I spent 25 years in the premier stock car racing biz, The Best Team. The last 5 yrs. pretty miserable. CNC, Fab and weld. When someone starts to dangle the carrot in front of you, its time to go. Do what you want to do, you dont need permission. I'll kick in what I can but, knowledge, its priceless. I enjoy learning a new skill from you. Thank You. Hope to see you around here, if you get the notion. AJM
15:10 the main reason for nipping the wires before soldering is to avoid stressing the solder joint when nipping it after soldering it :)
The wire acts as a heat sink and protects the component and more control will reduce the chance for a bad joint.
You'd have to have a pretty bad joint to be able to affect it with clippers.
Tam Railley, hi, this is the first time I have commented on anything but I was so impressed with your video I felt I had to. I have been soldering for years thinking twist the wires stick the iron against it melt the solder and that was it. After watching your your video, explaining how and why you do it I realise I knew nothing about soldering but now I am clued up, time to practice. GREAT VIDIO CHEERS am looking forward to watching more. Sorry for the long winded comment.
I gave up for the night on soldering but I'm sticking around and watching anyway because you're a total chill dude and exactly who I would picture doing this shit lol.
You're the Bob Ross of soldering...I'm subscribing...All you need is a mean ass perm and I'm sold. Gr8 vid👍👍
🤣🤣🤣🖌🎨🖼
Great tutorial. If you tin your iron before soldering, your solder will flow instantly onto the joint and you'll be less likely to burn the board.
Great video! Anyone else think this guy would be awesome to chill with?
It would be nice if you explained the abbreviations you used at the beginning of the video for which types of parts would require a hot air station.
The rest of the video was very good. I like your attention to detail about how to make it all look good when you are done. And showing examples of good joins vs. bad joins is very helpful.
A magnifying glass is paramount for the vision impaired! Great video.
Not only vision impaired. I use a microscope for pretty much everything except thm. It's just the convenience of being able to see what you're doing.
Hi Derek, first of all I'm really grateful to Callum, DX COMMANDER, who introduced us to your channel, learned alot about soldering by watching this video, I may never do this fancy stuff(bcoz i dont know much about this IC programming stuff 😬)but it was real fun watching you doing all this... looking forward for videos especially Amateur Radio stuff....thanx
Hello! It was nice talking to Callum and Mike - glad that brought you here. There's another amateur radio video in the pipeline, coming soon!
At least tell us the acronyms... Not everybody is a soldering guru! You are definitely the best I've watched so far
So I like your straight forwardness, no bullshit. Thnx for the vid.
I'm always looking for ways to improve my technique and equipment. This is a good tutorial on basic circuit board soldering. We all have our own preferences and style and what works for me may not work or you but that doesn't mean my way is better than yours or anyone else. I do lay down flux before I solder and I have several styles of tweezers as many components are just easier to manipulate with a curved or 90° bend than straight point tweezers, at least for me. I use the same gun as you which I have had over 25 years...and I have never changed the tip!
Thanks for your time and effort making this video 👍
really nice in-depth explanation of some of the finer points that aren't usually discussed.
Thanks for taking the time to explain more for us beginners. I've been lucky that people given me there old soldier guns. I think I've got quite a few different kinds now. They mostly work really well. I'm just toying around with different things to solder and replace burnt out components. I'm surprised you didnt show the different was to remove surface chips. Someone gave me a spring loaded light blue solder remover that sucks up the solder. I wonder what's it called. I don't plan on making a living from fixing and soldering broken parts just my own board that shorted out. I've always liked learning to fix things since I was a boy. It's nice to have someone take the time to explain what something are better then others. Thanks so much for your help. It's worth subscribing to your channel yep.
Thanks for the comment. I'll probably do more soldering videos related to surface mount and hot air / solder paste stuff. Stay tuned!
I did soldering as a job and I’m still intimidated by it ,as if I screwed up at work I’d just get bawled out but if I screw up on my own stuff it could cost me money . Self confidence is the thing
A sort of advice:
Pls includ to your description the tools you are using 😊
Thank you! Very clear directions of what you are doing, and explanations of why. Subscribed.
Thanks Mitch. Glad you found it useful. Welcome aboard!
Hello Derek...Great video...great close ups...You are a great storyteller...! PS: When resistors and capacitors come in a tape, I Cut them Off. The glue from the tape can "contaminate" leads and holes and prevent a full solder joint. Delayed New Years Greetings from Denmark...!
I wish you also a Happy New Year... i'm 10 days late, anyway, enjoy happy soldering... cheers
Such a clear and professional tutorial. Thank you for the straight forward tips.
The way you alternate pins on new IC'S has massively helped me, ive really learned a lot from your video, nexcellent,,, i got a Weller similar to yours from ebay it was quite a wanted item, but i won it roughly $50 US about £60 uk , its worth every penny...... thanks for ya video
I use a eutectic silver solder (silver, copper, tin & lead) for making audio cables. Requires a higher temp to work with, but the difference in capacitance and conductivity (and resistance) makes a huge difference when working with analog audio.
Variations in resistance and capacitance between the wire, your connectors, and the soldered joints, will change the frequency of your signal.
Higher capacitance cables tend to clip the high end (6khz-20khz range), creating a warmer, bottom end heavy sound (which can seem muddy)... while a lower capacitance helps maintain that high end frequency and comes across as more bright.
Should i repair my headphones using eutectic silver solder or normal solder will work fine ?
Q LMAO! The resistance of the solder is negligible, regardless of composition. And it can’t change the capacitance, since it’s not a dielectric (insulator) at all.
Great video! Very helpful for those of us learning to solder. 👍👍
This is pretty old but I've been able to learn a lot from your video. I'm about to learn how to solder my first PCB for a mechanical keyboard. I'll either do a great job or I'll melt my face off with the flux cleaner 😁
Mick Bones after a dozen or so solder joints you’ll get into the groove. Good luck!
@@AmRadPodcast that's the plan buddy. I've ordered 2 PCBs and a Weller soldering station from Amazon. This looks like a fun hobby to get into and I'll be checking out your videos several times for reference. A lot of people "talk" about soldering but you actually teach it. Thanks man 👍🏼
I've watched a lot of soldering videos. I learned so much that I didn't know from watching yours. Thank you!
Great video! I agree with using flux remover on leaded solder but found alcohol works better for lead free.
I bought the exact tool from the intro and found some trouble desoldering on a pc motherboard.
Turned to the internet for some advice and I found this video xD
Rock More I’m sorry you had a bad experience. Definitely invest in a temperature controlled station and it’ll be like night and day.
@@AmRadPodcast
Is that a temperature controlled or power controlled soldering station?
..... Man, why have I never thought about doing this stuff before always thought it was boring when people talked about it 😅 was offered a job long time ago to solder boards and passed it up this actually looks interesting.
Best video to learn soldering
You make it look and sound so simple, I can't tell you how many mobile phones and gadgets I have destroyed with my pathetic soldering jobs, I am not showing off but I have very expensive equipment and I am about to replace my charging port, I will follow your tips but I think by the end of the day there will be another mobile phone in my bin, here goes.....
Good luck!
KOOL vid man! I've been SODDERING (yes Mick, that's how it's pronounced!!) for about 52 years now, never too old to learn something new. Keep up the good work.
J Bienick. I think my 72 years trumps your 52 years, however how long each of us has been saying is totally irrelevant. Your still wrong. But what can you expect from the colonies. ( no nastiness intended).
12:56 - my first thought - 650 degree! O.o and then... Ah, fahrenheit not celsius :D
Kamil Pawłowski that’d be one hell of a soldering iron!
“Pcb fryer” brand? :-)
Came for the solder tips, stayed for the shirt 👌🤣
The angled cutters are called "Flush Cutters". Great vid. Thanks for the upload.
They're called side cutters in some places.
@@Cheordig Toenail trimmers in other places.
@@3dloon430 lol remind me not to borrow any of your tools! 😉
Diagonal cutters
Flush cutters are able to cut flush to the surface of the board, while side cutters and toenail clippers can't
2:05 "slide that sh... Uhh slide this dude off" 😂😂
+1 on filing down the mouse bites! Great video. Subscribed as I'm looking forward to future videos.
+Jon Vannatto Thanks! Glad you enjoyed it. Thanks for subscribing too!
Great explanation on the rosin! I've never knew that. I just always heard to make sure to apply your flux paste before you solder. LoL
very nice , many thanks , i am in the learning curve at this time . appreciate the time you took to make this video.
Those cheap little 30W/40W soldering irons are great!............for poking a hole in new automotive carpet for seat and console bolts....
And as a pry bar!
20:00 high-reliability soldering standards (like NASA's) all say to never, ever cut through the solder fillet, as it could fracture it. Indeed, high-reliability standards say to cut and then solder, since this ensures there's no strain on the joint, and allows you to tin the cut end of the lead, protecting it from corrosion. As a bonus, because the precut leads are a smaller thermal mass, they also make the solder flow a teeny tiny bit better.
(To be clear, though, for hobbyist stuff it doesn't make a rat's patoot of difference, and so at home I do whatever works better for that particular joint! :P )
Those guidelines were probably made for a different time, when the leads were 2 inches thick and people didn't know which end of clippers to use.
Ducklord High-reliability electronics (aerospace, military, military, and to a lesser extent automotive) are still built to those standards. Those industries are FAR more conservative than regular electronics in every way imaginable, and that includes a) taking no chances on construction, and b) sticking with tried-and-true components LONG after those components stopped being used in mainstream electronics. (And no, in high reliability electronics, the choice of cutters and how to use them is not left to chance, either.)
Pros and cons, talking about hand soldering, repairs and prototypes, since SMD, pick & place and robotics have been the norm for the last three decades.
Keeping the leads on while soldering reduces thermal stress on the part and reduces the chances of a bad joint. Both more difficult to diagnose and more likely to affect the end result.
Ducklord For mass production, pick and place/automatic insertion has been the norm since the 70s. But some components cannot be machine soldered, nor are one-off or small runs done by machine. Hand soldering is far from dead, especially in those industries. Not to mention that rework is done by hand.
No idea where you got the idea that long leads are better for thermal stress: short leads let you get in and out quicker, reducing thermal stress.
@@tookitogo All components can be machine soldered. Many componts cannot be hand soldered, without unacceptable risk.
You clearly have no experience, otherwise you'd know that thermal stresses are reduced by correct heat-sinking, which is a common process to do while hand soldering. A longer lead is a perfect small heat sink, and may actually have been factored in by the part mfg.
some of the solder on the IC didnt flow through to the otherside. You should see solder on each side of a through hole
Hi, I’m currently learning to solder broken stuff. Thank you very much for the tips. I will put them to good use. Let me know how I can help.
I stopped using the expensive flux removers some time ago and switched to IPA. Can't say I have had a residue problem. Wondering what percentage IPA you were using. I use the 99.9% and have no residue.
Mike
+MikesRadioRepair interesting. I stopped using alcohol 15/20 years ago and don't recall the concentration, but was lab grade anyhow. Side by side comparison showed the flux remover was better looking. Whatever works best! 😀
Lacquer thinner works best out of what all I’ve tried. I use a toothbrush and keep plenty of paper towels around to keep my bench clean.
In my workshop it's ipa all the way. I very rarely use RA flux though, I have a selection of fluxes with RA being reserved for dirty joints. 63/37 fast flow for anything new and occasionally a bit of future 315 to aid adhesion.
Here:
www.aliexpress.com/item/4000210604556.html?albbt=1&isdl=y&aff_short_key=uNb6i2f&aff_platform=true&albslr=238517275&src=UA-cam&tag1=solderwire
PS, at work I use an AOYUE model int701a++, a combination vacuum desoldering gun and a small soldering iron. The vacuum pump itself is extremely reliable (we have a number of dead Hakko's lying around at the shop); suction is excellent and I haven't had to do a damn thing to the vacuum pump for 3 years. (Fixing a Hakko desoldering pump will give you an ulcer). The earliest tip styles AOYUE made were of inferior metal and were short lived, and the quality control on the handheld guns for desoldering wasn't great, but both have been significantly improved since then; and the new long-lived desoldering tips have a little pipe or pippette sticking out, which is really handy for desoldering devices with small pins. The desoldering guns are extremely inexpensive, therefore it makes sense to buy 2 or 3 of them, and you can set them up with different size desoldering tips and merely swap the gun with the desired tip size into the pump as required for whatever you are working on. They do sell replacement heating elements but they are a major pain to swap, and the entire gun assembly costs only a little more than the element by itself.
PS, Unlike the older Hakkos and Wellers, the 7 pin plug for swapping out the accessory irons on the AOYUE unit has never become intermittent or oxized.....
I actually prefer my old 1980s Weller soldering station for most soldering work, and so I outfitted the AOYUE soldering pencil with a tiny pointed tip for the occasional ultralight soldering job.
Weller! Mines orange and works very well.
I love my hakko fx888d. It has super good tempature holding. Compared to my at201d same tip, same temp. Touch both against a spounge. At201d drops instantly, going down to under 250c. Hakko dropped 20degrees and held. The Hakko fx888d has better tip thermo mass, and retains a set temp very well. Out of the box, with the t18,d16 tip, 350c, tested at 349. Deffenetly calibrated before it leaves QC.
Just bin the sponge and use brass wool instead.
Would you put some links of things you recommend in the description for us beginner, thank you
Thank you for all the information I have just bought my first soldering station I bought a Weller 1010ea. I had thought about buying the hakko 888. However I've gotten a really good deal on the Weller I hope that it is a good station. I see you use one
i sorta hold stuff with my wrist/little finger side of my hand while feeding solder in with my fingers! it's really fun, almost like learning how to use chopsticks when you move one and hold the other steady!
dude, that back and forth filing was nails on a chalkboard to us grease monkey types. love the content though
I dont believe we need to pick the fly shit outta the pepper.
I'm pretty much a beginner at soldering and have attempted to replace some parts and rewire my electric guitars. One guitar worked even though my soldering was a mess, and I messed up my other guitar completely so it doesn't work anymore and I'll have to strip it down and start again.
You mentioned kits that you can practice your soldering on. What are they exactly and where can you buy them from? I'm in England by the way. I should be trying to improve my soldering skills and don't really want to mess up my guitar again, so those kits sound ideal for me. Cheers 👍
Great video. I know I'm a little late to the party, but the tips in here were great and obviously still relevant today. I keep hearing more about OSHpark and want to get some stuff done there. Just have to find some projects first :). When I clean the flux off my boards, I use a toothbrush. About once or twice a year, they do an insurance walkthrough at work and hand out crappy toothbrushes to everyone. I typically use those and electrical cleaner.
The easiest way to solder is to put flux first,.
And that makes a gigantic mess that needs to get cleaned up.
Should always clean things off after soldering, flux is your friend. Makes for shiny joints.
thank you for your time. This was very helpful.
Very well done. learned some stuff and re-assured some of the stuff I learned earlier. Thanks!
Great video, but for all that's sacred, clean your file! Automotive Brakleen works great. When I worked in the woods, I used starting fluid to clean my chainsaw files, because we always had some kicking around to start the skidder on cold mornings.
Eric Ford good tip!
Good video, I have looked at 6 other videos this morning and personally I don't think They where as well demonstrated as this one. I have an Xbox one that needs repair and I believe it is the retimer chip (not sure if that is the correct name for it). I believe I should have everything to replace it with I just wanted to get some knowledge on flux and it's various forms and how to use it properly. Thanks again for a great video.
It really helps using flux, when soldering IC it’s best to solder every other leads, don’t cut leads too short.
I'm new to all of this, thank you for all this info man! Subscribed
Stick the header in a breadboard and solder it on before the other parts (shim the main board opposite edge with another board if your main board has only one header)
Perfectly vertical headers every time.
THat was dope! " THIS IS THE NAW" NAwt going to get it. :) that was awesome, i needed that laugh!
Thank you for a great video and tips, learned a lot from you and will check back from time to time!
I have to say Weller branded lead-free solder is actually very easy to work with. It requires more heat, yes, but I have never found that a problem.
I'd highly recommend the Hakko FX-951 over the 888d. Having the heating element in the tip is so much better.
Thanks for the video. Helpful for a newbie. Through holes are tricky. Now I need to learn Eagle CAD so I can create my own custom boards as I have not a clue on how to do that. Hope you will do videos about that. Thanks for great video :-)
phillips4 Energy check out contextual electronics (Chris Gammell) channel (you prob already know of it.. but KiCAD is free and a pretty good place to start. Thought about doing a pcb series, but I’m a bit of a bull in a china closet when it comes to dealing with the UI. 😉
@@AmRadPodcast Allright thanks. Making a bee line to dig into this. If I can nail down creating my own custom boards it will open up a world of fun creative opportunities for my journey with electronics. Looking forward to going through your channel. Thanks much!!
through hole is easy try a 0402 SMD resistor without a microscope.
do you recommend that soldering iron for jewelry (wire, stones, etc.) ?
I’m not that familiar with soldering jewelry, but I suppose it depends on the melting temp of the solder. Mine goes up to 850F which is more than enough for leaded solder, not safe for jewelry, but as I understand silver solder requires a flame to melt.
This is an old comment, but in case anyone else stumbles on this video as I have: My girlfriend is interested in jewelry soldering as well, and the temps involved can be much higher than those used for electronics work (up to 1,400 degrees Fahrenheit or more). Soldering irons for electronics usually don't get hot enough for jewelry work. It's also important to note that tin-based solders used in electronics are NOT compatible with jewelry soldering. The solder can pick up the silver from your work piece and create an alloy with a lower melting point, which will weaken the work piece and make it hard to solder anything else near that area (I think it damages your soldering iron's tip in the process).
Nicely made. I'm a "soddering" (should I say the "L"? 🤷♂️) Virgin trying to learn the art to make my own paranormal equipment. I guess I got tired of buying stuff on Amazon for $189 when I could make the same thing for $22. Thanks- appreciate it. --Doc Lykins
Hello, loved your video, very clear👍🏻 Please could you tell me what overhead camera unit you were using - I need one for fossils. All the best
Thanks! Fossils? Interesting! It's an old Canon Vixia HFR500 mounted to a microscope stand, but I wouldn't recommend it. It is terrible used as a standard video camera - edge optics are pretty bad when zoomed out. Its only saving grace is when you zoom in and macro automatically takes over (which is what I used for closeup soldering shots). I would recommend a modern DSLR and a decent macro lens.
@@AmRadPodcast Thank you for you rapido reply. Watching your video I would say the footage was rather good, but yes, the future beckons. The lighting over the circuit board was perfection and I wonder how you achieved that. I must go and practice. 👍🏻
So helpful and so relaxing! Thank you so much.
Awesome, I regret not knowing early enough. I enjoyed your you tubes. I 'll be looking out for the ones I did not see. Great skills...Thanks
Really really high quality tutorial. Just what I have been looking for seems like you could turn this/these walkthrough videos into a pretty thorough instructional series. My apologies if you did already I haven't looked but than again and I am now subscribed
Thanks. I have considered doing something like that. I've taken a few months off, but that might be a good way to get back into the swing.
An excellent tutorial. Thanks for your diction and pace. I look forward to the opportunity to view more. How might I correspond with you in confidence? Best regards.
Any chance of links to the solder you are using and the flux pen.
I like your style explaining things, just great. What would be cool if possible to provide links to some of the tools you are using. Like the cutter you like or in other videos the pipe cutter you had. Some Amazon links or similar. Thanks for considering..
To remove flux, just use 90% rubbing alcohol available in grocery stores, pharmacies, walmart...cheap. Use a cotton swab or Qtip to apply and wick it up. Some fluxes have more sap content and may take a little soaking for 10 sec before it softens, especially if it is old old flux the factory never removed.
I was looking forward to find in the description a list of names or amazon links of all the tools you spoke about. That would be very much appreciated and could use affiliate links and help urself along with. Other than that, great vid!!! Keep up with the good work.
What's your recommendation in 2020 for a hobbyist? Same model? I am working mostly on retro computers.
very nice tutorial! helped me alot on some of the things i was wondering about like the tinning of the tip
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How hot do I need to solder mosfets in tv power supply board? I have weller 23 watts soldering iron,do I need to solder it fast like in and out quick?
Is it not ok to wear disposable gloves to not get flux on your hands?
Yes. Depending on how sensitive the parts are, you may want to invest in ESD-safe gloves, though. (They're only trivially more expensive than regular gloves, they're just harder to find.)
Depending on if you have another header to solder along a symmetry line but you can stick them in a breadboard to stop them from moving around.
Diagonal cutters is the correct name, side cutters have a pliers end with a cutter between that and the joint.
Thanks for the video!
I noticed you don't have one of the brass solder tip cleaners. Back when I learned to solder taking an electronics course, we just used a sponge, and I never had a problem doing it that way. Two hour lab three times a week soldering security system boards, and the tip on my Radio Shack 30 watt iron stayed in fine shape using just the dampened sponge.
Maybe I missed it. When you were soldering the board, what was the tip temperature?
brass tip cleaner is for knocking of blobs of solder. i use it when cleaning smd pads by using a solder ball to pick up corrosion etc.
The reason the brass wool was introduced is because with the higher temperatures needed for lead-free soldering, the larger thermal shock of the damp sponge causes more micro-fractures in the tip plating, resulting in tips wearing out faster. (The thermal shock is actually what causes the damp sponge to remove the oxides, not the wiping motion itself.) The brass wool doesn't cause the same thermal shock, prolonging tip life.