Simple Method To Improve Your Soldering / Soldering Tutorial
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- Опубліковано 25 бер 2024
- Simple Method to improve your soldering is a clear , informative guide that shows you how you can vastly improve the quality and consistency of your solder joints.
With short video demonstrations and photographs throughout see how with one simple change , soldering will just get so much neater and more enjoyable.
If you enjoy this video and find it of use please like and subscribe and hit the notification bell so as to not miss out on any future releases on the Mr SolderFix UA-cam channel.
Also please check out some of the other informative soldering videos on my UA-cam channel .
Thank you and good luck with all of your soldering projects.
Mr Solderfix
#smdsoldering #soldering - Наука та технологія
I have been an IPC certified (yes that is the crazy side of things) watching many people solder and have taught many to solder as well. I do believe in these three simple rules (as I call them) about soldering. 1) Clean shiny pads make better connections. 2) There can never be to much flux, but there can be to much solder, 3) Pretim wires, not pads. I do have others (rules as I call them) about tips, temps and other things, but I will always enjoy watching someone who appreciates the Art of Soldering and shows Good Method. Cheers.
Peace
Hi , thank you for watching the video and commenting , very much appreciated . I totally agree with your 3 rules , hopefully they can help other people progress a little with their soldering, if so I'm happy . Thank you again , take care 👍
I don't agree . in case of amateur work to much solder is problem only in case of clearance issue. Otherwise I don't have problem with such blobs of solder. Yes it doesn't looks nice, professional and polite, but it doesn't have any impact on functionality.
@bfx8185 hi , if you want to progress to more difficult components i.e fine pitch IC's you have to learn to control your solder amounts . So many people have commented to me on other videos how this method I show has helped them enormously. As they say , the proof is in the pudding .
@@mrsolderfix3996 I have 35years experience in soldering and I'm using the same style to put blob of solder and component afterwards. And you can control blob size as well. Using solder wire 0.32mm you can simply control amount of the solder on the pad. And for me 0201 is not a problem at all to do in such way. For fine pitch IC I like drag soldering. Amtech 559 as preferred flux.
Hi , not getting in an argument mate , you do it your way let other people decide how they want to do it . In the long run I believe my method will help people more than your way . But I always say if you have a method that works and your happy , stick with it . By the way I have 40 years of soldering knowledge but I don't mention that normally, in fact I think this is the first time . Bye
The solder whisperer returns!
Hi , thank you for watching the video and commenting , very much appreciated 👍
Thank you for your detailed teaching, which allowed me to learn new welding technical details again. Greetings from fans in Taipei, Taiwan!❤
Hi , thank you for watching the video and supporting my channel , very kind of you . . I'm glad the videos have helped you , that's great to hear . Keep up your soldering and you will become a master . Thanks again , take care 👍
Can you do a video on seeing your work? I'm not sure if it's my age, my glasses, or just the nature of the task, but my most challenging part of soldering smd's is actually being able to see what I'm doing.
I believe he uses a digital microscope. I am also curious what he uses.
In one video he told us that he uses a cell phone camera.
Even if your eyes are not weak, you should use at least a magnifying glass while doing this.
Buy a 70 buck digital microscope. My 50 year old eyes also require it 😂
With 70+ year old eyes, I also use a video-microscope for many operations though I am fortunate I can still do 0603 components without.
Brand new to your channel and I have to say, you got the video angle, lighting and commentary right on the spot! And the audio is spotless. This makes such a difference in a good way compared to many other channels out there.
I am also new to soldering. In regards what I am about to say, you might have dedicated videos to what I write below.
But often new viewers/subscribers to your videos step in without seeing any other video and thus have no built up background of your teachings.
I think it would be very, very helpful to people coming here for soldering tips if you mention in all or most of your videos what you're using: solder wire with or without a flux core, the thickness of the solder wire, the temperature setting on you're soldering iron, what type of flux you use (no clean, rosin (mildly) activacted (RA/RMA) and other basics. Brands are irrelevant, as people have different suppliers/shop having a different assortment. But the general information is priceless and so much worth repeating.
I'm a strong believer in repetition, as repetition is the master of the art, and this goes double so for teaching.
Hope this helps.
Hi , thank you for your comment . I have done so many videos on subjects such as different solder sizes , fluxes , how to get good joints etc . In lots of my videos I mention temperatures for leaded and lead free , I'm always giving out information but you can't just keep repeating it over and over as the videos would be way too long and a bit samey . I try to cover most of the basics but you probably need to watch quite a few of my videos to appreciate the info is in there somewhere . Hopefully that helps , thanks again 👍
@@mrsolderfix3996 fair enough. I will go through all of them. Thanks for the teachings!
Hi , no problem , thanks for your comments 👍
A tip I use... Using your same techniques, I finish by drawing the iron tip off vertically... up the side wall of the component pad and off of it. This makes a nice curved fillet. The same technique works very well with component pins. If you remove the iron tip horizontally, you are more likely to get a solder blob. That's my experience, anyway. I hope the tip helps someone.
Hi , thank you for your comment . I actually do it horizontally , it's strange how different we can all be . Thanks again , take care 👍
Everyone appreciates the nice work, hopefully you make a Drag soldering next time. Thanks!
Hi , thank you for your very kind support of my UA-cam channel , it really is appreciated . If my videos can help a few people out with their soldering/ desoldering issues, then I'm happy . Thank you again for your generosity , take care 👍
Brilliant video as always. Lovely work and tidy methods. You've helped me no end. Yes, it wasn't easy at first, breaking old habits, but the difference in my work is night and day. Keep them coming, your helping so many people, thanks for sharing.
Hi , thank you again for watching my channel , it's always nice to see familiar faces returning . All I want to do is help a few people , if I can then that's great . Thanks again , take care 👍
Pre-Flux > Pre-Tinning. Flux on its own is plenty tacky enough to hold the component steady. Great lessons!
Hi , thank you for your comment , really appreciated 👍
@@mrsolderfix3996 learned so much from your content I really appreciate it, I've been able to do board repairs and restorations that have saved me a fortune!
i mean you don't NEED to goop on that much solder on the first pad, you could put on way less and then augment it later if you need more. personally for more difficult jobs i like to pretin both my component's contacts and the pcb pads and then on the pads at least i'll wick off the solder, so just a sheen of new solder is left on it. that creates a very healthy joint - you can inspect the adhesion of solder to pad before applying the component. pretinning is pretty important in some cases, eg when i was soldering an 01005 resistor between the pads of my headset to make it android compatible, i put it between the pads that the headphone wire is soldered to, i had to use 01005 because of space. so the solder joints (from factory) holding the wires were massive compared to the part, and so i really needed to pre-tin it so it wouldn't try and reposition itself by wicking up the solder from the existing massive joint.
Method of preloading one pad before is perfectly fine. You just have to know how much solder to use. If you put a huge blob in the first place then, of course you are going to have too much solder in the end. I consistently get perfect joints with preloading method. And I am doing it for over two decades. In fact, you can be as sloppy as you like with soldering as long as you use decent flux and clean tip. Solder likes to flow to the hottest spot. And the hottest spot is always the iron.
Hi , thank you for your comment. There is always an element of guesswork when pre loading solder . You will always get more consistency tacking on lightly first . Definitely when soldering fine pitch devices you can't be sloppy as you hinted at and doing easier components consistently and carefully will definitely help towards achieving fine pitch successfully . I always say though If you have a method that works for you then stick with it , we are all different . Thanks again for your time 👍
Truly inspiring!! I have never soldered/desoldered smd components before because of their size. I was able to fix faulty SMPS watching your videos & using your soldering techniques. I desoldered faulty smd diodes, resistors, SOP8 IC using two soldering irons because it won't come off with hot-air gun as it was glued to the pcb (saw this for the first time though...smd components and IC glued to pcb). Two soldering iron technique worked. Thanks! 😊
Hi , thank you for your kind words , very much appreciated . If my channel can help a few people out with their soldering / desoldering issues then that's great . Thanks again and all the best for your future soldering projects 👍
Recently found you videos and they are very helpful, if you could just mention iron temp and flux used that'd help even more👍
Hi , thank you for watching the video and commenting , much appreciated . I mention iron temperature's , both lead free and leaded quite a lot within some of my other videos. It's hard to always mention everything in every video as they would probably become too long . Hopefully if you watch some of the others on my channel you should find what I like to use . Thank you for supporting my channel and good luck in the future with all of your soldering projects 👍
Instead of preloading trying to guess the amount need I barely add any just enough to tack it down. Solder the other side properly then go back and add solder to the side tacked down. I've never seen anyone trying to pile up a blob like that until I started watching vids on UA-cam for it. Flux is definitely a must. As an extra note for those that slap on big blobs like that and clean up after the fact you end up heating and reheating the glue as you try to clean up and that can lead to issues on cheaper boards. Nice critiques in the video. Sadly, my coffee fueled hands aren't stable enough to not tack them down first.
Hi , thank you for your comment . I've seen plenty of people working for Electronics firms still doing the blob method ( Test Engineers for example )known for doing this still , definitely not just people on UA-cam doing it this way . This is why I put the video out as it still goes on professionally in many commercial firms. Thanks again 👍
Great Tip! Thanks for sharing.
Hi , thank you for your support of my channel . I'm glad you enjoyed the video , hopefully it can help a few people out. Thanks again , take care 👍
Thank you again for sharing and the lesson.
Hi , thank you for watching the video and commenting , your support is very much appreciated 👍
Another excellent explanation! Thank you!
Hi , thank you for watching the video and commenting , your support is very much appreciated 👍
Great video, as usual.
Hi , thank you for watching the video and commenting , very much appreciated 👍
Came across the channel yesterday and subscribed..!
Hi , thank you for watching the video and supporting my channel by subscribing , very much appreciated 👍
Brilliant as always, thanks for sharing 👍
Hi , thank you for supporting my channel , very much appreciated 👍
Great job, dude. Thanks for the content and the education.
Hi , thank you for your comment . If my videos can help a few people out then I'm happy . Thanks for your support 👍
You truly are at one with the solder...😂
Seriously though, I'm pretty good at soldering (not trying to be big headed)...but you're a master!
Hi , thank you for watching the video and commenting , your support is very much appreciated 👍
@@mrsolderfix3996 No problem mate. I honestly appreciate your uploads, and learn loads from every one of your videos. Good work mate! Take care.
Hi , thank you , all the best 👍
Another brilliant video. What always strikes me about your videos is the amazing camerawork and detail we can see during the process. It's way better than I see through my magnifiers when soldering! This leads me to a question, not on the technique, but on your vision. What are YOU looking at/through when you do this work? i.e. are you using magnifiers or do you look at a similar scope screen to what we're seeing on the videos? Thanks again for helping out all us soldering non-gods!
Your video editing style is awesome, and your advice and techniques are brilliant as always.
Hi , thank you for your kind words and supporting my channel , very much appreciated . If I can help a few people then that's great . Thanks again , take care 👍
Another great one! I used to do the whole pre soldier thing until I started watching your videos a while back. It truly is a much better way to do things. One problem I had when I started to try doing it thins way was that my soldier was to thick. I think I was using .7mm. I bought some .25 and wow what a difference. Thanks again! Come on 100k!
Hi , thank you for your comment , much appreciated . I'm glad you tried the method out and found it useful . It really is a much better way to solder . Hopefully a few other people try it and get on with it . Their soldering will definitely improve pretty quickly . Thanks again , take care 👍
This is almost exactly what I've been doing for years :) However, I prefer conical D-type tips 2.4mm for large parts and 1.6mm for small parts (0402 and alike) and 0.25mm soldering wire for 2nd pass. Finally, if you want it to look perfect, cover the entire board with a passive flux (or just a pure glycerine for lack of anything better) and rebake it in soldering oven.
Yup big fan of the chisels. JBC could learn to make a decent 115 micro.
Excellent work
Hi , thank you for watching the video and leaving a comment . Your support is very much appreciated 👍
Over-soldering can also run a high risk of creating shorts sometimes under the device. Thanks for sharing your methods of good soldering practice.
thank you very much sir for sharing...god bless.
Hi , thank you for watching the video and commenting , your support is very much appreciated , take care 👍
Another fantastic video. Thanks for taking the time to share your expertise.
Could you tell me what microscope you use to do your soldering and perhaps make a recommendation for a microscope that us hobbiesest could afford?
Thank you! What´s that cloth you used for cleaning up the brown residue / flux?
This is a good video because soldering board is such a pain!
Hi , thank you for watching the video and commenting , very much appreciated 👍
I really enjoyed your video. Very comprehensive. What kind of Flux do you use? Thank you.
Great video as ever
Which flux do you recommend?
Looks good 😊
Hi , thank you for watching the video and commenting , very much appreciated 👍
very nice work , is it possible to know cam and tools u used ?!
On and off, I was watched a few of your videos and they were all really well done. Very informative and helpful especially for beginners and even those with a little experience deterring them from developing bad soldering habits! One question, what kind of a microscope or magnifier are you using for these videos please?
Thank you for the video.
Really nice video quality.
may I ask what microscope you are using?
Great VIDEO. Thanks. You are the best!
Are you from Brazil?
Hi , thank you for your comment , much appreciated . It's always nice to receive positive feedback so thanks for that .
I am definitely not from Brazil , I just liked the colours in their flag ( it suits PCB work ) so I used it . England's where I'm based . Thanks again , take care 👍
You said in a previous video how good Electro SMFL200D flux was. It is no longer made and I can't find it anywhere. Where do you get it or what would you use instead? Thank you.
Many thanks for taking the trouble to make the excellent videos which I am sure help so many with their soldering technique. I am a volunteer at my local repair cafe and we try to repair items free of charge that are brought in by residents and so avoid repairable things ending up in landfill. I have had in a pair of Sony headphones that needs the charging port replacing. I have the replacement part but would appreciate your advice of how best to do it. Some questions. Firstly, it is a micro USB so it is very small and the pins even smaller. Do you have a recommended system of magnification such as the one that produces such clear images in your videos and will make it possible to see what I am doing! Secondly, I have a reasonably good temperature adjustable soldering iron but I clearly cannot use this to solder in the port as the pins are underneath. It seems to me that I will need a hot air/reworking station. I am happy to buy one for this and future projects but don't want to spend £500+. Do you know of one that you can recommend? happy to spend up to £150 ish? Finally, which flux and solder do you use? All advice appreciated. Happy to send photos of the port/headphone port location if that helps. Thanks again for all the help you give fellow solderers!
Great job! What is the camera brand and model you use to mag this image? Cheers from Brazil! 🇧🇷
You make it look so easy. I brought at a DSO38B as when I try to solder components all my soldering looks dull. I brought what I thought was good wire and AMTECH 223 flux but my solder wont stick to tip and just balls up. What am I doing wrong?
That's a very neat camera you have there. What brand is your solder?
Have you came up with a alternate for the SMFL 200D and the ElectroLube ULS 400D? Can not find in the US .
I've used the pre-load or as I call it the "slide-in" method but I use flux and no where near as much solder as you were using. Then again I mostly solder through hole components so I don't pre-load one those for obvious reasons. It's very rare that I've soldered SMDs. For soldering a wire to a pad I always pre-tin the pad,
Hi , thank you for watching the video and commenting , much appreciated . It's always good to hear other people's experiences , so thank you for that . Thanks again , take care 👍
Thanks so much for the awesome vids - please could you do a vid on soldering a wire to a through hole on a pcb? I've got 1.75mm wire and I'm finding it really hard to position the wire in a crocodile clip and then solder it to the pcb, and I'm not sure whether to bend the stripped wire or not to keep in place - please could you share your technique?
Hi Mr SolderFix, I opened up my all in one pc to find out if there was an m.2 slot because I was going to get an ssd and upgrade my ram. I accidentally snapped off the connector to the screen and I’m not sure if it’s fixable. If you wouldn’t mind, I’d really appreciate it if you took a look at the video I uploaded a video on my channel of the broken contacts because I’d like to know whether or not you think it’s fixable, thanks!
Hi what microscope do you use in the videos please.
i do the load pad, but i find its the solder you use too. my solder doesn't create that hazy pad. im also using leaded solder...so might be something there. I generally don't even need to redo my first joint. I work in some tight spots, so loading is sometimes easier. this is great content as always though and i might give it a try!
Hi , thank you for your comment , much appreciated . It's always good to hear other people's experiences , the more methods that get mentioned , the more options people have to choose from . Tacking on the way I like to do it works for me , but I've always said if you have something that works for you and you are happy stick with it . Thanks again , take care 👍
@@mrsolderfix3996 i absolutely value your content. I watch every video and share you as a source of learning. I’ve definitely learned from you!
Hi , thank you for your kind words , really appreciated . I will always upload more videos when I can but sometimes I struggle to get time to do them . Thanks again , take care 👍
Thx for the video! Can u do a few on how u use hot air gun? Ta 🙂
(I've gone through all ur tutorials and I don't remember seeing much reflow with hot air)
Hi , thank you for your comment , much appreciated . I've featured hot air stations on some of my videos but you have a good point . I will definitely do a couple of videos totally dedicated to hot air work . Maybe I will do these as my next uploads . Thank you for the idea , take care 👍
Nice work. What size tip are you using there?
Tips, the sore of soldering. I wish solder would stay at the tip of the tip.😊
Hi , thank you for your comment . I use in my videos a Weller TCP S iron and the small conical tip is a PTP7 . Old school type of iron but they are still great . Thanks again , take care 👍
I tried to get the SMFL200D flux but it is not available anymore. Have you found a replacement for this flux?
What method do you recommend to safely desolder an IC in SOIC/SO case without damaging the IC? I need to desolder ICs to clean up PCB from a leak capacitor and solder the ICs back.
It would be great if you include the method in one of your future videos.
Hi , thank you for your comment . I've posted a few methods like You've mentioned in some of the other videos on my channel .. I've done a few removal videos dedicated to different ways to remove components including the type you have mentioned . Also one of my very early postings showed 4 different ways to remove IC's . Hopefully you can find these and see what you need . Thanks again , good luck👍
🔥
Hi , thank you for watching the video and commenting , much appreciated 👍
Thank you very much for sharing! Soldering is one of those skills most people believe they excel at, when in reality, a lot of them don't really have the right parameters. And you explain the parameters and the procedure clearly for great consistent results. Can you inform me what flux brand/model do you use? Do you always use the same flux? What about solder paste, do you ever use it?
Just found the video you mention about it: ua-cam.com/video/0b_AA7uj388/v-deo.html
Flux is smfl200d. Would you still reply about the solder paste?
Hi , unfortunately SMFL200D is no longer available . I use one by Loctite , can't remember the exact code , I will look it up and mention it sometimes soon . Trouble is the Loctite one I now use is only available at a lot of distributers in 5 Litre drums , obviously too much for most people . Sorry I can't help you more at this time .
@@mrsolderfix3996Right, thank you for replying! I'll wait for your information later.
Hi , the flux I now use is Loctite 6381-35 liquid flux . It really is great , the only unfortunate thing about this flux is that you have to buy it in larger quantity's than most people need i.e 1 litre or 5 litre containers . If anyone knows where you can purchase smaller amounts it would be good to hear the suppliers. Sorry I couldn't help anymore . Thanks again for your time 👍
@@mrsolderfix3996 That is great, it will certainly do for me! Thank you for sharing. Do you ever use solder paste?
What about preloading those pesky hidden large pads under ICs/regulators etc - is there a rule of thumb as to the guesswork involved as to how much? I always err on the safe side as don't want any shorts but then wonder if the heatsinking is fully optimised if not enough! :)
Hi , thank you for your comment , much appreciated. You are right , there is still a slight element of guess work , but I'm like you , I err on the side of caution . I know roughly how much solder paste is generally applied to different IC's and try and match that with either solder or solder paste . Has always been successful for me doing it this way . Thank you again for a good point raised , take care 👍
I always use the method that you show for surface mount except for the first pad. If I don't do the "bad" method for the 1st pad, the component will move. If we take the aesthetic aspect of the matter, is there any issue by putting too many solder ?
Hi , if you learn to use less solder you will end up being able to solder smaller and smaller parts without any danger of short circuits . Being over zealous with your solder isn't a problem on larger parts like I mention in the video but will make it difficult to progress your skills . Thanks for your comment , take care 👍
@@mrsolderfix3996 thanks my friend and keep the good work
Hi , no problem . Thanks for your support 👍
Great vids. Can you show a simple way of removing an analog joystick from xbox or ps5 controller without using a heat gun?
I was making every soldering mistake until I found this channel. Now I'm proud of my soldering.
Hi , thank you for supporting my channel , very kind of you . I'm glad you have found the video's useful , that's great to hear . You definitely get better the more you solder as you get to learn what you need i.e tools , temperatures , solder thicknesses etc so I would always say to people stick with it and in the end you'll start enjoying what you can achieve . Thanks again , nice to hear your story 👍
with which flux you settled now after the old one is gone?
I like to soldering
What kind of flux do you use?
What flux are you using, and what chemical do you use to remove it? Isopropyl Alcohol?
Hi is it possible to get all the products you use and the links if possible please
Amazing 😂
Hi , thank you for watching the video and commenting , your support is very much appreciated 👍
What are the type/brand of tweezers are those?
Hi , I've recently posted a video on my channel totally dedicated to Tweezers , brands , tips , costs etc . Maybe this video will be of use to you . Thank you for your comment , take care 👍
hi! i love soldering, however i have a simple problem.
i dont know how to clean the flux off. i have 99.9% IPA and use q-tips (just normal ones).
The board ends up just being sticky all over and i have no clue how to get rid of it.
I am heating the flux back up to temp using a hot air station but that still doesn’t fix my issues :(
If you know how to solve this, please comment or make a video on it, i would be eternally grateful!
Hi , thank you for your comment , much appreciated . I've posted a complete video on UA-cam showing how I clean my boards . Lots of info , plus materials I use . The cloths I use are not available anymore , there are others similar out there but the main thing with the video is it will show you my methods including a surprise trick that works great . Hopefully you find the video . Thanks again , take care 👍
What flux are you using?
Apart from "it doesn't look professional", what are the issues caused by an excess of solder?
Hi , if you learn good practices with the basic stuff you will go onto do the harder components a lot easier i.e rows of 0402 size components that are almost touching to start with . You will be able to do these without shorting them . Questionable if you could do these successfully with the excess solder method . Also fine pitch IC's done a lot easier if you learn to manage your solder amounts . Loads more examples I could give but no point really . If people want to improve they will find it easier not loading pads first .
Without doubt your joints look prettier, but is there any functional problem with the big, blobby joints, provided there are no shorts? Potentially I would think the component adheres better if pad and terminal are fully covered?
Hi , thank you for your comment . You are right , with the first components I showed 0805 size they will still work fine . When you get to 0402's that are so close together , unless your more careful you will struggle and potentially get shorts . Learning to apply the right amount of solder will help you so much when soldering the tiny parts or fine pitch devices . If you ever see the amount that automated pcb's have pasted on them that's what is ideal, the same as I try and achieve. Hopefully people will learn to control the amount better and progress from there , which they will do for sure . Being sloppy only gets you so far . I hope this roughly explains why I've posted this video . Thank you again for your time , take care 👍
You might have issues with wetting (when solder not only sticks, but also connects surfaces) that get hidden by a solder blob. E.g. you have loads of tin on the pad such that it encapsulates and physically holds the component by the lead, but lead does not get enough heat to break down the surface oxide and properly connect tin to the component itself.
Concave surface indicates, that both surfaces have been wetted and have sucked in enough tin to make reliable connection.
To my mind, one of the issues, especially if you pre-tin both pads, is that the component can't be in its proper location until, maybe, after the joint has been made. If there is a blob, even a small one, on the other end, it assures that the part will be off the board when this end is soldered. Then the other connection can only be... component contact, solder, PCB trace. In other words, instead of component to trace, there is a layer of solder that the current has to flow through. This is *probably* okay in many cases, but if you're working with precision low-value resistance, for example, it affects the results. There are also potentially thermal EMF issues with the copper-solder-copper path, and it's good to avoid those.
Even if there is one a pre-blob on one end, it's still the case that the component can't be put where it belongs except under conditions where everything is heated up. If you're like me at all, it's sometimes difficult to get the part in the right place, because of physical skills and shaking and so on. I don't want to do that while heat is soaking into my component and changing it in undesired ways. I would rather put it where it belongs, "dry" so to speak (with flux!), and then dab a little heat and solder into the region and get the joint made as quickly as possible, using MrSolderFix's technique. The advantages I like are (1) the part is in the right place, and if I'm lucky and careful, will have copper-to-copper contact, (2) the part has been subjected to a minimal amount of heat, even if it takes me a long time to position it. I also like the clean and consistent look. In some extremely. precise cases, I might think about joint resistance and thermal EMF and such, and consistency will help with more than just the appearance in those cases, it can actually improve the performance.
@@ydonlGood points on resistance, EMF and extra heat, didn't think of that off the top of my head.
BUT you'll get bimetallic joint at any rate, if you solder, due to tin wicking between pad and part, so your assumption about copper-to-copper joint is not entirely correct. Even if you would manage to avoid wicking tin, you'll get a thin layer of copper oxide in there with extra resistance and it would be worse than properly soldered joint. That's why thermocouples are welded together :)
Pretinning is fine for general use, but you have to use absolutely minuscule amount of tin on the pad. Precision circuits where component tension and joint resistance are of importance should be treated with extra care.
Video's good though, teaching good habits and best practices :)
Also - what about tin-plated leads soldered to gold pads? :)
Hi , thank you all for your comments , very much appreciated 👍
I'm definitely guilty of this! Especially when using two irons to solder both pads at once.
Good tip as always! Just wondering if you have looked into any alternative fluxes yet? The one I use, while effective, is only available in a needle so is quite slow to apply. This makes soldering a whole PCB a lot of effort. Would definitely appreciate any recommendations for a more liquid flux as you seem to be using.
BLT have a brilliant rework flux, you don't have to use the syringe fitting just squeeze some out in a pot and brush it on
@@seagullsg784 Good point. I have been hesitant to do that as I figured I would end up wasting flux that was left over after a session and the flux (cif) ain't cheap. A sealable pot would sort that I guess.
I had a look at the BLT fluxes, any recommendations between water soluble Vs no clean Roisin Vs no clean non Roisin?
My biggest issue is BLT dont seem to have a local supplier. Shipping costs are more than the item. So disappointing @@seagullsg784
Once you've seen a master at work, you can only humbly observe and not presume to make a poor imitation yourself ;-)
Hi , thank you for your kind words , it really is appreciated . If the videos can help a few people then that's great . Thanks again , take care 👍
What scope are you using?
He is using a phone camera to record as he said before (maybe with a magnifier installed to the camera) but im not sure if he is soldering with the same method or he have a microscope.
Looks like 3d scope
Solder paste in a syringe. Flux comes that way too. Chip Quik brand
Hi , thank you for your comment . I've seen and personally used flux in a syringe . Much prefer applying it with a plastic cable tie , more controlled without it occasionally blocking in the syringe then shooting everywhere when it does finally come out . Won't go back to this method again . Loctite 6381-35 Is the flux I use now , great flux but you have to buy a large quantity which can be a drawback to many people . I also use solder paste in syringes ( done it in a couple of my other videos ) , definitely the best option to apply if you haven't got a stencil . Thanks again 👍
@@mrsolderfix3996 wow, that Loctite 6381-35 is expensive especiually since only available in 5l , not that i can source any in the uk. normal suspects don't stock it. 😞. Shame. But your videos are magic so thanks for sharing.
Hi , thank you for your comment . I know what you mean , I managed to get a decent amount from someone I knew that will last me a long time . I haven't posted much about this Loctite flux as I knew it was to expensive for the general person on UA-cam . If you are in the UK I would contact BLT CIRCUITS , ask for Greg . He will be able to help you . They are great for all solders , fluxes etc and their prices are really good . All the best and thanks again , take care 👍
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Hi , thank you for watching the video and commenting , your time is very much appreciated 👍
Ugh. I'll admit to being one of those baddies who pre-tin the pads. I really need to start using flux more often. It's annoying how hard it is to let go of bad habits once you've picked them up, even if you realize that there are better ways.
My hands are never that steady, and I don't even drink coffee!!
Hi , thank you for your comment , very kind of you 👍
I want to see the earlier practice on R2, R3, R4, and R5
Hi , no practice , this is how I do soldering normally. Bit confused by your comment . Thanks for your time 👍
@@mrsolderfix3996 Those resistors clearly show the same techniques as in this video. Take a look at 2:11, for example
@@brake_4_cake Hi , this is a scrap board that I let people practice on . I'm not that bad , please check out some of my other videos and you will see I'm pretty capable. Thanks for your comments
@@mrsolderfix3996 Oh, no, I thought you just made an earlier version of the video, not that you're bad at soldering. Sorry if it came across that way!
@brake_4_cake Hi , no problem , I sometimes use boards for demonstrating methods in my videos and sometimes I use proper boards where I'm doing proper work . You may see strange situations on some of the dummy boards where people have practiced . Thanks again 👍
The reason you can't control the amount of solder when tinnig the pad first is because you are using a conical tip. Get a slightly concave one and you will get nice joints with the right amount of solder.
I hate to say this but using a conical tip for SMD work is a bit of a noob mistake.
Hi , sorry , totally disagree with everything you've said . Check the rest of my videos out , I hope you see that I can solder pretty well . The way you say is so wrong . Everyone has an opinion , mine will never agree with yours, that's life . I've just checked your channel to see how it's done correctly , couldn't find any soldering videos , maybe you should show us all how to do it correctly 👍
@@mrsolderfix3996 so what is your reason for using a conical tip? I don't think any professional advice recommends it, and the "problem" you are solving wouldn't happen if you had the right one.
@kuro68000 I work with lots of professionals, working on military grade boards . All of us are IPC certified ( are you ? ) and love conical tips for fine pitch work , modifying boards , doing components down to 1005 size . Try doing that with your suggestion . You are talking nonsense , totally dismissing conical tips . Please don't write about a subject you have no clue on . Look at some of my other videos if you think I don't have a clue . What is your soldering UA-cam site called ? I want to check it out . So many people have written to me after switching to conical tips for certain work and find it so much better . That's why they are still sold . If they were of no use they wouldn't sell them . I'm waiting for your reply on your channel name for soldering . Thanks .
@@mrsolderfix3996 can you answer the question?
Are you on a wind up ? You must be . Have you read the IPC ? It recommends methods but doesn't say you have to use one tip or the other . Your choice . Conicals ate best for certain jobs including small components . You tell me where it states you must not use a conical under NO circumstances , you won't be able to . Mate , get a life please . Oh by the way , found your channel , no soldering videos , not really surprised 😂
What happened to the like button? I accidentally unliked and can't like. These are great. Thanks.
Hit the unlike button a second time and it will remove your unlike. Then you can hit Like. Same with Like: if you hit it a second time it removes the Like
Great job and can I get your email for a potential sponsorship?