How to ETTR - Quick And Dirty Edition!
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- Опубліковано 30 тра 2019
- How to Expose To The Right (ETTR) to maximise your camera's sensor dynamic range :)
I also create highly accurate Rec709 corrective LUTs (optimised for these ETTR principles) which you can buy from here:
www.LeemingLUTPro.com - Фільми й анімація
I got here from Gerald Undone 😃 thanks for the LUTs
Same and I bought the BM v4 LUT too, I just can't get over how dark the image gets... Am I doing something wrong?
@@Boogieeeeeeee
Same here! Interesting. It does not matter how much I overexpose, after applying the LUT the footage is horribly underexposed. I do exactly what he recommends.
Have you found a solution?
@@DVZM. i have the same problem brother....don't know what to do
@@skyrocker71
After doing a lot of research and contacting Paul via mail, here is whats going on: Pretty much all youtube tuturials show you the results with the Leeming LUT *One*. If you order now, you receive the Leeming Lut *Pro* which darkens the picture heavily.
I recommend contacting Paul per mail and ask for the "One". That LUT is amazing and works wonderful.
@@DVZM. i appreciate your time , i guess a last question would be , how about the exposure for that lut ? Over expose too ? Thank you
I'm from an audio background originally. It's interesting to compare ETTR with the way we have always set audio record level: 'turn it up until it comes back sounding bent, then back off a little'. Less important in these days of digital with its 100db-plus dynamic range, but in days of analogue tape it was *the* way to maximise working dynamic range. ETTR is basically doing the same thing.
Exactly :)
Great point
so much of art is about dynamic range, regardless of medium
Really appreciate everything you've done! Your Leeming Luts have really amplified my workflow and made everything incredibly accurate!! Cheers
thanks a lot Paul!
I must admit you did a great job with leeming Lut. Loving this with my Sony HLG profile with A7RIII
keep up the good work
its impressive how you became a reference for so many people. Congrats , amazing job!!
Thanks 😊
Went straight here from Gerald Undone, I have also bought all the Leeming LUTs I need for my cameras. Thanks 👍🏻
Thanks! 😊 👍
This man is incredible - great customer service, wonderful products. Thank you, thank you. This will help my next video production for sure.
Thank you for the kind words! Glad to help 😊👍 Cheers, Paul 😊
I can second this. great job indeed!
Great stuff - thank you! I would love to see the longer version!
Hi Paul, if you shoot a talking head outside in the shade, would you remove the zebras from the sunlight in the surrounding landscape or just from your talking subject? Thanks
Thanks for this quickie. Very useful.
Quick and simple. Great video.
Thanks Paul, so helpful!!
Thank you so much for the great info and for being so to-the-point. This was extremely helpful :)
Glad to help! Cheers :)
Great information Sir!
I'm actually interested in the long version
What is IS or IRS (reduce or increase IS/IRS to remove zebra) that he mentioned in the video?
I got here from personal emails...he is really good at customer service! But saw the Gerald Undone video as well.
Awesome video. Came over immediately from Gerald Undone
Would be good to see the long version and workflow in Resolve, PP and FCP.
great tutorial. thanks!
I just bought your LUT pack for Sony and shot some tests before watching this video and ended up underexposed. Now I know why lol 😁. Thanks for the quick and dirty tutorial.
BadWolfKnight same thing I did yesterday..lol
@@JasonHwang79 I think I have to make a checklist to follow. I use my camera for photos, quick home videos and sometimes serious planned videos. I feel like these luts are meant for planned work only. Can't really use them if I leave something on auto.
@@JustAskThisDad what i tried for auto work inhouse for fun, is setting the camera on (A) mode, where i can freeze the aperture to whatever i want, like f 1.2, then on my gh5s going going to exposure compensation and over exposing the auto mode by +2. im still experimenting but this could be a quick dirty way of staying on auto and filming with leeming lut, without having underexposed footage, because Paul did not release a version of luts that doesnt change the luminance
@@laurentiudll I ended up doing same. But do far I haven't shot anything that really needs post processing.. so can't say I have made good use of these luts.
Omgg..this is gold !!
Great tutorial thank you
Thanks for making iPhone15pro series lut, amazing works btw.
You're welcome 😊 👍
thanks Paul!
wow
you just reduced the dynamic range, great stuff
Huh? Dynamic range is maximised with ETTR, not reduced. And my corrective LUTs retail 100% of the captured dynamic range with zero clipping at either end.
@@visceralpsyche when ettr you move the middle grey up the scale, thus reducing the dynamic range. you may get less noise, but no better DR. Also you're advising to change the iso in order to ettr. That's also wrong , dangerous and will decrease the DR even further
@@petrub27 LOL. I'm maximising the sensor dynamic range with ETTR. Increasing ISO might lose you a quarter of a stop of DR, but not ETTR'ing loses you multiple whole stops of DR and more noise. I know which I'd pick...
@@visceralpsyche then pick a better camera. Ettr is bullshit
@@petrub27 LOL, ok.
Paul, can you create a video on how to use davinci resolve, apply your LUT and do any adjustments that we may need, how do you recommend using it with nodes (some ppl recommend apply the LUT at the end, some says at the beginning, etc). what about if we nee d to add saturation or contrast, do we touch whitebalance? etc. thanks for the lut, it is great!
It's on my todo list but I'm quite busy currently so it won't be that soon sorry! But my written guides should be able to help you get started.
I just purchased the Sony combo pack as I stumbled onto it following Gerald Undone's recommendations. Just tried it on some already available HLG3 footage and after applying the LUT it looks dark, but great after adjusting the gamma and gain. I mainly shoot family videos with changing lighting conditions, so when exposing for the brightest shot (towards the window) everything else gets rather dark. I guess will always be the case except when using auto iso (ducks for any tomatoes thrown at me) or chopping sections up and grading separately in post (something I am trying to avoid).
If the window is the brightest thing in the shot I usually say to let it go unless it is the thing you want to focus on. Unfortunately if you use Auto anything then you are at the mercy of its algorithms! For video I always recommend using manual exposure tools in camera to give yourself the best images. HTH! Cheers, Paul :)
@@visceralpsyche many thanks for your reply. Will definitely keep it in mind as getting the zebras to disappear on the window as well causes sacrifices in more important areas.
@@wvansluisveld3011 Yep, it's always a tradeoff! That's why they invented lights - to balance out the shadows :)
So my Sony A7 IV when set to manual IS Auto-ISO which is all I've ever used. Using these LUTS even with that and this method I'm still getting the best results with S log 3 I have ever got so far. So how DO you set a Sony camera for manual ISO please? Is that a setting on the top wheel? Can it be made one of the custom numbers on that wheel? Cause Auto-ISO is necessary when shooting wildlife as I just can't make them sit still long enough to set everything right.
Thanks bro
Great!
Thanks Paul!
One thing you forgot to mention is what zebra % did you have it set on?
Especially interested in your settings on the GH5, I have a GH5s
Cheers mate
It depends on the camera and profile used, so I didn't want people to assume it was a particular number. The setup guides have the zebra information. Cheers :)
Excellent video by far.
Just why the aperture on the screen don’t move when you remove the zebra ?
I was using a vintage lens with manual aperture, so there was no digital connection to the camera body. Cheers 😊👍
2 quick questions about ETTR with the Atomos ninja V external recording & also fx3 internal recording (new firmware). Are we suppose to ETTR with the viewing LUT applied? Or do it with no LUT applied?
How are you "rotating your iris" the the values all remain the same 1.2 / 180 / 400 is this because you're using a variable ND? Thank you.
It's just a lens data bug due to the mount - I was adjusting iris but it didn't alter the display.
@@visceralpsyche How dumb I was feeling myself because of this lol
@@blodogblogger8057 I will remake this video at some point to avoid this :D
Hi Paul, I just purchsed the GH5 LUT pack today. I'm not sure what I'm doing wrong, but at the GH5 settings that you've provided, when I adjust exposure so that my zebras just disappear (as per your video above), the scene is always a little underexposed or sometimes spot on 0. It's never + to the right at all. To go into + means that zebras show up and parts of the image start to blow out. I'm working with Cinelike D until my Log order arrives.
Sorry, long time photography RAW shooter, trying to get my head around video exposure.... Thank you.
It's easiest to figure this out via email as I'd like to see your images and how they are exposed. Send me an image of what you are seeing to the email address you received the LUTs from and we can go from there. Cheers :)
Paul, I need to match GH5s and mavic 2 pro footage. If I use your LUTs for each cam will they allow me to match both footage once converted to rec709?
Yes 😊 👍
Paul Leeming awesome!! 🔥🔥🔥 I loved your silent hill film btw.
@@live4christ297 Thanks 😊 👍
Question, for example using v-log on a LUMIX S5 under a high contrast scene, how is basing zebras at 95% going to ensure correct skin tone or subject exposure using the Leeming LUT for monitoring? I imagine your LUT was designed under controlled lighting for an accurate repeatable luminance curve. In the end, with all cameras and their limited dynamic range, isn’t it always a choice of what you’re willing to give up for overexposure to retain your subject. Short of biting the bullet and purchasing an expensive DSC LABs for luminance cross greyscale gamma curve and shooting this in every scene, how can we get correct luminance curves for varying dynamic lighting environments? Thanks for the video.
ETTR is basically designed to "fill your film negative" for the most dynamic range in post. Once in post you can then reduce exposure with the cleanest shadow detail. ETTR with my LUT also ensures that the "film negative" has the colours and luma correct. After that you can follow up with grading for effect, knowing that your baseline is spot on. I use the DSCLabs chart to build the LUTs so you don't need to buy one. Once you've applied the LUT, you get the correct linear luma result. Cheers!
Excellent short and sweet tutorial. I have a couple of quick questions. What level did you set your zebras to? Is 85% in the right ball park? Also does the ETTR approach also apply to HLG footage?
Zebras depends on the camera and profile in use. All my PDF setup guides list the correct numbers for each camera so refer to those for the appropriate value :) ETTR is for all profiles, HLG included. Cheers! :)
Paul for reference should zebras be set in the menu to “100” or something less? Thanks!
Set the zebras according to the camera and profile in use. My setup guides list all these for each camera and profile option. Cheers!
So you don't recommend adjusting ISO in order to make the zebras disappear but rather the f-number... is that right? I also would appreciate your full video :)
I have read your guide several times. I have your luts.
I am shooting in slog2 / sgamut.cine3 on sony a6400. Should I set Zebras best to check skin tones at 93?
You recommend white balancing beforehand in camera, does it matter if you white balance to a white card or gray card?
You can certainly reduce ISO if that helps :) Any of the four exposure adjustment tools will do the job: shutter angle, f-stop, ISO and ND filters. Usually though you want a 180 degree shutter so that eliminates one of the four, and usually you want to use an f-stop for creative effect, so you are left with ISO (can cause noise if too high) or ND filters.
I generally recommend ETTR to the clipping point, but if you want to expose for consistent skin tones, use the numbers in my setup guide from the website.
White balance is best done to a neutral white card (less noise and more precision) but if all you have is a grey card, that will do in a pinch. HTH!
@@visceralpsyche Thank you! Yes I keep my shutter at double my frame rate, which is 25 since I'm in Europe.
Great exponation how to ETTR👍.
I am wondering what is the best setting and which luts should I use to match Canon c100mk and Sony 6500? I usually use clog in Canon and cine4 in Sony, but found it difficult to correct it in post. Greens and blues looks different. Any tips??
For the Sony I usually recommend Cine2 as that's what my LUTs support. I don't have a C-log LUT at the moment but it's on my todo list 👍
@@visceralpsyche thanks Paul
Hey Paul! been using this lut for a while but I have realized that the settings for the picture profiles on sony has changed! (ie) Cine2 with leeming lut use to be cine2 with the cinema color but now the pdf says cine2 with the movie color and -5 saturation. Will the old lut work with these settings?
No, you need to use the right LUT for the settings. They aren't cross-compatible.
Paul Leeming how can I get the updated LUT?
@@DolanDreams You should have received them automatically in your inbox. If you can't find them email me with the email you purchased them with and I will resend them.
Good morning, very interesting. Sorry for the question. Rec.709 is now obsolete as with UHD the color space is rec.2020 or rec.2100. Why keep proposing 709-based LUTs?
Thanks
Because 99.9% of the world still uses Rec709 as their colour space ;) I am planning a set of Rec2020 LUTs once I get all the currently supported cameras to Pro II level though, so stay tuned!
Hey Paul, are the zebras here same as suggested in your website 75% ?
Yes, that's right 😊👍
Hi Paul. I am interested in Leeming LUTs for Nikon. Have you considered working on this?
With Sony and the A7SIII taking forever, I have turned to other alternatives.
With Z6 and Ninja V we have 10-bit N-Log, and also RAW output coming.
Yes, it's on my todo list but no ETA sorry!
Hi thanks for the vid. Have just been reading through your camera setup guide (I own an R3) and you recommend to have view assist OFF when shooting CLOG3. Why is this please?
It's because looking at Canon's curve gives you a false sense of exposure, because they brighten the curve more than ETTR would. You end up thinking that the image looks overexposed if you use their curve and try to ETTR, which reduces the overall exposure in post when you apply my LUT. Cheers, Paul 😊
Hi. I just bought your Lut Pack. Can't wait to use it. I'm a little confused about the video. I notice you saying "open up the iris", but I don't see the aperture moving at all. It's staying at 1.4. Am I missing something?
I used a manual lens to change the iris so it failed to register the changes on the display, that's all. Thanks :)
I just bought the Sony package which I really like, whoever I don’t have an iris option on my Sony zv-e10 how can I find that or use that feature?
Iris is f-stop, so depending on your lens it'll either be operated via a camera dial if it's native electronic mounted, or with an actual iris ring on the lens if it's an older manual one. In my video here I'm using a manual lens which is why it doesn't appear to change on the screen (it was a communications bug). HTH!
Question, I am using zebras and the waveform to help balance my exposure and that’s helping, but now once that’s done, my question is what do I prioritize to lighten my exposure - aperture, shutterspeed or iso? Like should I keep aperture at a minimum (2.8 on my lens) and then use shutter speed and/or iso to adjust the exposure? Which one should I keep low and which should I be adjusting to move the waveform ? I obviously want to stay away from noise as much as possible, Someone please help I am dying trying to figure this out and I can’t!!!!
Normally it's ISO you're changing, as f-stop is mostly used for creative effect and you don't want to move that too much. Plus shutter speed is usually locked to 180 degrees if filming narrative content. Depending on your camera, ISO on modern sensors can go pretty high before objectionable noise is introduced, especially if you are using a dual gain sensor like the Sony A7S3 or Panasonic S series. HTH!
How would you ETTR with auto ISO? For example, if you're using S-Log2 on a real estate shoot and have to go through from an interior scene to exterior?
With auto anything you're at the mercy of the camera to get it right. The best I can suggest is to test, test and test again with the EV dial to see how it reacts to exposure changes and get the EV dial set up so that it is basically judging the scene just below ETTR, then use that setting. HTH!
I think an in the dark edition would be a cool video
That will be in the full tutorial, whenever I get around to it! 😂 But the principles are the same. Just increase your ISO to ETTR.
I now understand the concept but I have one question? What are you adjusting, Aperture? I don't see that you are adjusting the shutter speed or the ISO. Thanks! I'm using your LUT and still figuring out how to properly do it.
Yes, I had a manual lens on so no data was being passed even though I was adjusting the aperture. Cheers :)
I take your luminance distribution was set up by a using DSC LABs ChromaDuMonde chart with a target ETTR luminance for a given camera and picture profile ( v-log etc…)! ? If so, what happens if we can’t get to the ETTR target? Mines v-log so I believe 95%. The LUT would drive exposure down and when brought up in post, up comes the noise. You should create three LUTs that would handle different exposures, but still maintain accurate gamma curves. 1. What you have now. I’m not sure how many stops over middle grey this one is for v-log? 2. This one targets one stop over middle grey. 3. This one targets middle grey at the normal exposure ( 0 stops over). Thoughts?
To get to ETTR you need to expose appropriately. That means opening up your iris, adding light or increasing the ISO. The noise will be there whether or not you shoot ETTR or not. In fact, if you don't shoot ETTR your noise will be higher. The LUT is converting the log curve to linear so it will naturally appear darker once applied, but that's ANY log to lin curve. By using ETTR you minimise shot noise and maximise dynamic range. Think of it as exposing a film negative. Once in post you then apply the LUT and it looks correct. If the shot was dark, well then it was dark to begin with - the log curve just made it "look" brighter before correction. But it's better to ETTR and have clean shadows. Then you can always darken them in post for effect.
The purpose of the corrective LUT is to give you the full sensor data as it was seen by the camera, free of colorimetry and luma errors. If you underexpose, then the LUT will show that, because the variable of sensor exposure has been removed if you ETTR correctly.
Also Paul, what if we want to keep it at a fixed iris (because we need a particular DoF), can we just increase the exposure compensation by a few stops (e.g. 2 stops) and apply the same technique as you are doing here? Thanks so much Paul.
The iris remaining fixed on screen is just a speed Booster display bug with the manual lens I'm using. Use ND to keep iris and shutter the same if you don't want to alter ISO.
@@visceralpsyche I meant what if you don't want to alter iris and need it fixed? Can we use the camera's exposure compensation or there are better ways?
@@itsdannyftw I guess you can use Exposure Compensation but that is more than likely just a kind of soft ISO adjustment anyway.
@@visceralpsyche Got it thanks Paul!
I just purchased your Leeming Lut Pro for my Sony a5100 after watching Gerald Undone. After reading reviews I'm afraid it may be too dark as some have stated and may need to change to the one version. Same name on order.
Those reviews are for the older versions. Pro II and especially Athena are much brighter and basically 'fix' any perceived shortcomings of the previous version.
@@visceralpsyche Your customer service is top notch Sir. With no prior experience I had my sony a5100 dialed in with ETTR using your instructions. I settled on the cinema LUT and this fixed my orange skin tone and the colors really pop! Very much worth the price and I highly recommend 👌
@@victorrosales6264 Thanks! ❤️
interesting tutorials. I am newbie on this stuff, and when I see you said adjusting the iris but I don't see any thing changed (iso, aperture, shutter speed) but the zebra went away. What did you adjust?
I have the sigma 16mm f1.4, and the only way to get rid of the zebra strips is to lower the f value (my iso is already at 100, and shutter speed 1/50).
That's just a display bug due to the combo of Metabones adapter and Sigma cine lens. I was adjusting the iris 👍
@@visceralpsyche I need the f1.4 to get the blurry background (tight space). Lowering the f numbers will defeat the purpose of having the low f stop. Is there a working around this? Thanks
@@jonathant1797 You need to use ND filters as the fourth side of the exposure 'triangle' ;)
@@visceralpsyche I'd never thought of this. Thanks!
Hi Paul, Do you have or plan to make any LUT's for Canon C-log? I had a look on your website and it seems you only have ones for faithful picture profile. Thanks
Yes, it's on my todo list. Depending on when I get the existing LUTs updated really, since those are first. I'll be buying a Canon R5 as I'm sure lots of people will be going for that one!
When you have zebras do you use the in-camera luts? Does it affect the zebra levels?
No, I usually don't use the in camera LUTs because they can be deceptive in terms of ETTR exposure.
Just a quick one. Just went over the instructions again when I found them on my phone and saw that you recommend Sharpness and Noise reduction to be turned down? Is this a personal thing and something I can ignore? I use the basic version of resolve so noise reduction and Sharpness isn't something I can change after the fact so is this based on you being able to or just personal preference?
Also when are the Athena luts available? Can't see an option on the website? It's to be used for Lumix G9 with V LOG L and G80 with Cine D
LUTs aren't affected by Sharpness and NR so you can set them as you wish. Athena is coming in the next update 👍 No ETA sorry!
@@visceralpsyche Oh okay brilliant thanks for the quick response :)
At present using the G9 and G80 for vlogs so it's nice to be able to have them match one another. Only issue is having to use the Quickies on the footage most of the time (too dark usually otherwise) so would be nice to have a quicker way to do things although it's not the end of the world. Look forwards to them!
@@visceralpsyche One last question Paul. With my footage I assume I should do a colour space transform before the lut? Just noticed this feature and the colour looked a hell of a lot better afterwards! I assume I should always have been doing this?
@@JoeMaranophotography Assuming you are in FCPX you should use the Color Space Override if editing HLG clips, but otherwise no transforms are needed, and they would actually cause incorrect results if used.
Do you think another one of the confusion is that the zebras vary on different surfaces? So just because it has put zebras on a white wall, it doesn't mean that the image is over exposed.
It's not a concrete light meter science, it's the cameras interpretation of little to no detail information.
What do y'all think?
The zebras, when set per my camera/profile guides, will show a roughly 5% safety to absolute clipping point. It's the best in-camera tool we have in most cases to show where the camera will clip whites or other colours.
I'm not very experienced with cameras and not sure what I'm doing wrong. I bought the leemut lut for sony cameras, I have the ZV-E10 and trying to manually adjust the exposure but my camera won't allow it if ISO is not set to auto. Any suggestions? I'm in manual mode, where I set my white balance first, then ISO level, and then I'm trying to adjust exposure to get the zebras showing but not able to
Hi Thomas :)
If you aren't seeing zebras on anything it may simply be that your scene isn't that bright at the ISO you have selected.
The ZV-E10 is an 8bit camera so I'd recommend my Cine2 Still LUT and profile in camera, as it's also a simple Rec709 profile you don't have to fiddle with in post (say like HLG which you have to force most editing software into Rec709 for my LUTs to work).
So set Cine2 as per my guide along with the right zebra values for ETTR, then set M mode to give you full control over all the parameters, then set your lens wide open, with shutter at 1/50 or 1/60 depending on your local electricity grid frequency (that's the 180 degree shutter), then if nothing is clipping, raise ISO until you see that it does.
There's of course a noise limit so in some cases if you are shooting low light stuff, it's best to figure out your camera's best ISOs for noise and decide where your personal balance is between noise and image brightness.
The LUT in post will give you a proper linear Rec709 curve and make the image properly dark in the shadows so don't fear your camera display being to bright when shooting. Just make sure the only clipped areas (if any) are not on skin and are only things like the Sun, practical lights in the shot etc.
Hope this helps!
Cheers,
Paul :)
Hi, thanks for the explanation, but I don't understand how to set up my a6600 properly - I did everything following your guide, but zebra doesn't work as expected for me. I set it to 100+ and zebra show off only on a direct source of light (sun or light bulbs). So I have to set it back to at least 85
It depends on the type of shots you're making but that sounds like it's working as intended. Just up your exposure until you see something clipping that you want to keep, and then back of a bit for perfect ETTR. Cheers :)
@@visceralpsyche thank you!
Hi Paul, hope you read this comment. Your LUTs is amazing, but the exposure is lowered too much, because not all the time I can over exposure correctly, so can you do a version of your LUTs without dragging down the exposure? Thank you
My Athena LUTs are a brighter version of Pro II, but I haven't finished updating all the cameras supported yet. In the mean time I provide the Apollo Pro Quickies to add after the main corrective LUT for just this type of situation. Cheers :)
What did you do at 0:48? Did you just increase the iris, or did you increase the output of some lighting?
I adjusted iris but due to the Metabones and the manual lens I was using it didn't show the change.
I purchased the LUT pack and it's a total game changer. I found myself trying and trying to achieve a good looking video, but - even with color correction and gamma-specific luts - it always looked like crap. So your correction LUT's blew my mind. And i asked myself, why this is so underrated - no major channel is talking about that (but Gerald Undone). So I did not finish my way, to a perfect looking image and with that beeing said, I have a question: With using an external monitor and monitors in-built feature to import LUT's, should I use your correction LUT or a LUT that represents more the "stylistic" aspects of my expected result? Thank you! :)
Thanks for the kind words! Glad to help :) Regarding your question, I would advocate using my LUT as the monitoring solution, since it's the best way to "see" what the sensor is seeing during recording to maximise dynamic range. Then in post, adjust to taste on the creative side. HTH!
@@visceralpsyche perfect, thank you :) My external monitor grabs the signal of the imported LUT, not the actual "dry" LOG signal from the camera to show the scopes, waveforms etc. Do you think that can cause unwanted issues?
@@eike.zender It should be fine. My setup guide uses that principle for zebras in the Ninja V for example, but if in doubt as to where to set zebras, just get the camera zebras showing and match your external monitor zebra levels to your camera so they face in/out around the same point. HTH!
@@visceralpsyche Thank you very much - that helped a lot :)
How would one use false color to determine the right exposure point ?
Use the red colour see where your overexposure is. But honestly, zebras are easier to use.
Also, in tricky lighting situations when it hard not to have zebras
Zebras are always useful in ETTR mode because they tell you where the shot is clipping.
if I'm shooting in a room with dark colors should I look for the zebras on my face? I don't have a white wall but I do have a color checker
ETTR zebras are never to be showing on faces. If you do, you'll be clipping them and causing all sorts of issues for yourself. Zebras should only be showing on areas you are happy to let clip.
1. If using Sony Slog, should we set the zebras to 90%? 2. How are you changing the "iris" w/o modifying the fstop - I see it fixed at 1.2, and your ISO is also fixed? I'm a Canon and Sony user, and, in both cases the iris is the fstop.
Iris is changing but the Metabones wasn't showing it due to a manual lens being used. I have a Sony guide on the website with all the numbers for zebras etc. HTH! 😊
Hi Paul, your Canon set-up guide does not say what Zebra's % to use. Can you help me here please? I've just bought a Canon EOS R6 which has Zebra's as an option and I'd like to use it correctly. Many thanks!
Use cheap external monitor
Clarifying something in the Guide Paul - "Set Creative Style NEUTRAL (preferred) or STANDARD (if your camera doesn’t have the Neutral style) with Contrast 0, Saturation -3, Sharpness -3." - is the saturation & sharpness settings of -3 applicable only to the 'Standard', or also 'Neutral' style?
Both.
@@visceralpsyche In terms of doing adjustments/edits in post, should we correct the exposure (or contrast, colours, etc) before adding the Leeming LUT, or the other way around? Thanks.
@@Shirokeh I do white balance tweaks before the LUT, and everything else after.
Paul... there are usually a few zebra % settings on a camera. What % were you using?
Hi Jerry :) In this case I was shooting V-LogL so I used 75% zebras for ETTR (clipping is 80% IRE which there is no zebra for). HTH!
@@visceralpsyche Thanks Paul... love ur LUTS!
Hey Paul, if you have a moment to reply, if not no worries! I’m using my works Sony zv-1 and I bought your leeming luts. My plan is to use HGL3 but it seems like the zv1 is missing quite a few of the settings from your guide. I know it’s a lower end camera, is it still worth it to try to use your luts with it? I’m new to profiles and grading so I’m just trying to sort it all out. Thank you so much!
Side note. Do you do or are you open to doing a one on one video call for some help with your luts? I’d of course pay you for your time and expertise.
The ZV-1 has HLG3 with the appropriate Picture Profile settings available as far as I can see by their user guide. So if the other (non-highlighted) settings in my guide are in different places or aren't there, it's not a big deal as the LUT will still work correctly on the footage provided you are doing the correct colour space forcing in your editor of choice according to my installation guide PDF. Perhaps start with Cine2 Still though as it means you don't have to deal with the colour space conversion aspects, then once you are comfortable with the workflow, try HLG3 with the additional steps above.
Yes, I am available for video consultations and have done so with other clients in the past. Send me an email to the address you received the LUTs from for more info. Cheers :)
Hi Paul!
Quick question, I'm a total noob with filmmaking, just got your luts but the pdf guide is (I think) written for the old Sony menu system. Is there a newer one somewhere for the a7siii menu system?
Not yet, but my next version will have a new guide with both old and new systems covered. Coming soon and a free update as always :)
@@visceralpsyche cheers for the response!
Can I still use that guide with it's values etc. to setup my 7s3? I noticed the update notes with clipping set to -1% from the old value (to 94) on slog 3
@@anttiranki3690 Yes, use 94 as noted and you'll be good for S-Log3 :)
@@visceralpsyche Yes, thank you Paul! You da man ;)!
I'm setting up a Sony a7SM2 to do S-Log 2. I noticed you recommend setting the zebras to 107+ I found 2 stops over recommendation somewhere that says
83% for a 90% white card. Am I misunderstanding something or do you really recommend a much higher exposure?
I'm using ETTR so that you maximise the sensor dynamic range in a controlled way. +2 stops is arbitrary and you might have plenty of missed stops over that. ETTR with 107+ zebras means that you know EXACTLY where your sensor is maxxed out and can intelligently choose to let those clipped parts go, or reduce exposure just enough to keep them while maintaining the brightest, and therefore cleanest, shadows. HTH!
@@visceralpsyche Thanks Paul. You're the best!
Are you going to make a LUT and zebra instructions for Nikon N-Log? That would be nice
Yes, it's on my todo list 👍
@@visceralpsyche Great! Thanks. Also, how to ETTR the best way with nikon z6 and the atomos ninja V and the HLG and the PQ settings. I have searched all over but not found any good information on how to best use the zebras on the ninja v.
Not sure about the ETTR settings yet as I don't have the camera.
@@visceralpsyche Is there any update on this? Appreciate all you do!
@@maxwolf2718 Yes, I have Nikon LUTs available on my website 😊👍 Cheers!
i am new to all of these. when you said iris do you mean aperture? my new zv-e10 doesnt have "iris". only iso, shutter and aperture
Correct, aperture. Mine was a manual lens, hence not showing any change as I stopped down. Cheers :)
@@visceralpsyche Cheers! Thank you!
I have sony a7 iv, Can i use this setting in that which you gave in the pdf
Yes, I'd recommend S-log3 as you have a 10bit camera 👍 Cheers!
Hi there, sir. I am really new to videography, roughly 2 years old in photography. Ive been to your LUT website, I just would like to ask if the settings mentioned in your website is applicable to sony a6000?
Hi Alexis :) Yes, the PDF on my website for Sony cameras covers the a6000 Picture Profiles. It's an 8bit camera so I'd recommend using the Cine2 Still profile for best results. Cheers, Paul 😊
Should you white balance before you start exposing to the right?
Yes, that way you give all three RGB channels the most dynamic range.
Fantastic - what percentage did you have your zebras?
It varies by camera and profile. This was V-LogL so 75%.
Hey there! To which level do you have to place your iso (percent) so we have the same Zebra clipping behavior on our cameras? Greetings.
ISO depends on the scene brightness. Or do you mean zebra percentage? That varies between cameras and profiles. On my website you can download the setup guides for your cameras and in there you will find the correct numbers. HTH!
@@visceralpsyche yeah I meant the Zebras! Thank you. :)
Does this video apply exactly the same for hlg3 and hlg2?
Yes :)
In your guide for S-Log3, you set Picture Profile to PP3 with S-Gamut3.Cine - why not PP8? Just looking to understand, thank you!
PP slots are arbitrary. You can store any combination of settings in any profile slot. I list them out in detail in case the PP slots in one camera are silently changed in another by Sony.
@@visceralpsyche Thanks Paul!
Weird question - how would you do this when vlogging? Would you do it for every time you change backgrounds and the potential lighting changes, or would you say you do it every couple of hours as the sun changes position along with the light intensity? Is there maybe a shortcut that could be added to the lens or flip out camera screen (in other words, maybe I could change the exposure by touch instead of having to turn the camera around to mess with the rings) so I don’t have to keep on turning my camera around to mess with the rings to adjust focus, especially if I see that my shot is dynamic and the zebras reappear even after I change exposure and I’m walking through different lighting scenes?
As a follow up, I did purchase three of your packs for my camera, my GoPro, and my drone - hopefully you can help!
Hi Teddy :) Although I normally advise against auto anything, in the case of vlogging where you are always moving, I'd say use auto ISO as the easiest way to keep the exposure fluid without adjusting things like iris or shutter speed. Most modern vlogging cameras have auto ISO as a feature, along with ways to make it a smooth transition etc. The trick is to figure out ahead of schedule how it tends to expose using the ETTR zebras, and then use EV compensation to adjust the relative exposure up or down so that it's near zebras, but not showing any. Hope this helps! Cheers and thanks :)
@@visceralpsyche Thanks! Just to confirm, do I need to use an external monitor or display hooked into my camera to use ETTR and zebras, or can I use the video feed directly from the camera screen?
@@teddygotsch5832 Directly from the camera screen is actually best, as the zebras will be more precise. Cheers :)
@@visceralpsyche Perfect, thanks! If I am vlogging myself and subjects, should I with between C1 and C2 zebra presets of 85 for skin tone and 99+ recommended highlighted HLG3? Or does filming for skin tones for everything work?
First of all thank you for your excellent work. I want to buy your lut, but not sure which one is suitable, my camera is a sony fx6, need your guidance. Thank you so much.
You're welcome 😊 👍 For the FX6 you should buy the Sony Picture Profiles and use S-log3. Cheers! 😊
I prefer HLG3 instead of the base HLG - How would you go about using the Leeming Sony HLG LUT Pro & One on with Sony HLG3 PP? as far as adjusting it in post?
+1
DVSM “If you use HLG3 you need to reduce saturation by 10 in camera compared to my HLG recommended settings. Or alternatively you need to reduce saturation in post by an equivalent amount before applying the LUT. Easier just to use HLG and save yourself a step.” - Paul :)
@@aram.v Hello can i ask, i want to make sure something *Reduce saturation by 10* it is mean to reduce from the original setting from Paul +15 to +5 Or make it to -10 Saturation ?
Felix Egbert it would be +5
@@aram.v Okay got it, Thank you for answering my question, Have a Good Day
You may have mentioned this before but at what percentage are you setting your zebras? I am using the Leeming Lut Pro II. 99%? 95%? Thanks
It depends on the profile in use as the zebras vary. You can find all the numbers in the PDF guides on my website for each camera 😊👍 Cheers!
@@visceralpsyche Hi Paul, similar question - I just got a GH5 to go with my old broadsword of a G85 and looking forward to doing some two camera run and gun doc work. So, in Cine-D on my G85 and GH5 - I work with the Zebras at 95% for ETTR. But what is the 80% thats greyed out underneath? Is that your suggestion for skin tones? I might be getting confused. Thanks also for one of the most concise and easy to understand approachs to this. Your quick and dirty guide to ETTR is exactly what more UA-camrs should do! In and out!!
@@scamp_media Yes, the grey value is the theoretical skin tone placement for the profile. If you have control over the lighting and can set a range (not all cameras have the ability with the zebras to do this though), then you could match multiple cameras that way for post, at the risk of not knowing where the clipping is. Glad you like the guide, thanks!
Hey! How do you ETTR for dark/low light scenes?
Increase your ISO or open your lens up further. Of course there is a noise limit, but if you're hitting that with a modern camera, add some lights ;) HTH!
What do you mean, "open your iris"? I didnt see your ISO or your Aperture settings changing at all. Im having some issues with my slog3 footage being very dark when I convert it. If I expose for the leeming lut, I have to have my ISO extremely high. Help a newb out plzzz!
I was using a manual lens, so the display didn't change even though I was really changing the iris. It's best to email me with a sample image of what you are seeing, then I can give better advice :) Cheers!
I have Sony a6400 and i can adjust the exposure compensation only if the ISO is set to auto ? what can i do ?
I don't have a 6400 sorry so I can't test, but if you are shooting in M mode you don't need it anyway as you can set exposure yourself. Cheers!
@@visceralpsyche Yes I wasn't understanding what you meant by iris but now I do, Maybe I should change my kit lens it's a bit dark whatever I do.
Thank you for sharing your knowledge 🙏
thanks mucho mate! /guy
i get that... but how should i set up the the zebras? because normaly i put it at 80%... but if i want the zebras gone like you said, at 80% will be gone differently like at 70 or 100... is not very clear
Each camera/profile combination has different zebras for maximising ETTR. I always list them in my PDF guides so as long as you use the correct one for your particular camera/profile combo, you'll be all set :)
@@visceralpsyche yep i saw your PDF, for hlg3 it said 99+ zebras... it seems very high for me, but you are the pro here, i will do what you said... im purchasing the LUT right now
@@karintosco Remember, that's the clipping point, so as long as you don't see the zebras on anything you don't want to clip, then your shot will be fine 😊 👍 Cheers!
@@visceralpsyche thank you man... last question... my sony zve10 doesnt have 99 zebras for the hlg3, it has 95 or 100 or 100+... what should i use?
@@karintosco Make sure you are set to the C2 Lower Limit in the zebra options, then you should be able to adjust to exactly 99+.
Sorry one question. Let say if I'm filming outdoors with high DR. If I ETTR to get the bright sky correct, it means reducing a lot of EV for the foreground objects. Should I still use ETTR?
Yes, because most new cameras have great shadow retention, but blowing highlights means you've lost your data without being able to recover it.
@@visceralpsyche Thanks a lot. Sorry another question which might not be relevant to the LUT. As different shot is taken with different exposure value, how do you make them equally bright in premiere pro?
@@nighos I just use curves after the main LUT to equalise them, or if you are shooting raw, adjust the ISO in post for the same effect.
What setting have you done on zebra? What percentage?
It depends on which LUT you are using for which camera settings. See the manual on the LeemingLUT Pro website.
Use the zebra percentage written in my camera setup guides for whichever combination of camera and profile you are using. In this video I was using the GH5S with V-LogL, so I had the zebras set to 75%. But if I were using a Sony with HLG for example, I would use the 95+ zebras. Just be sure to set them as per the guide and you will always have a roughly 5% safety as that's what I built into the reference :)
Thank you :)
@@mannyzarate Reduce to save the shirt details I would say, but in such a case I would look at adding light to her face as well to better balance your initial image.
@@mannyzarate I'm not a 100% sure, but I think the percentage of the zebra stripes corresponds with the IRE values. Setting zebra stripes at 95% will mean that they will show at 95 IRE. If you are using V-logL the highest IRE is 80. So if your zebra is set for 95 then this means everything will be blown out before the stripes show. Set the zebra stripes to 75% (max. 80) and you'll probably be okay. Someone please correct me if I'm wrong.
wolfcrow.com/what-is-a-waveform-monitor-and-how-to-read-a-waveform-monitor-part-one/
I searched for Leeming Lut too dark and ended up here LOL. I have the Sony A7S III and I can't find a setting to make my camera do ETTR, so I guess, to use Leeming, I'm going to have to expose completely manually
Correct, there's no "ETTR" exposure setting on any camera. But as a videographer I would suggest you should be exposing manually anyway, since auto almost never works as you would wish it to! The good thing is, once you understnad the ETTR zebras like in my tutorial, it becomes almost a one second process to adjust exposure and give your sensor maximum dynamic range.
@@visceralpsyche I just started to get a hang of it and your LUTs work perfectly now that I manually expose ETTR. Thank you for making them, I'm a happy customer 😊
@@AlexKovshovik You're welcome! :)
I see that you open Iris (Apperture) but the numarage of youre apperture is still the same ?? ( 180D)
Just a Metabones display bug.
@@visceralpsyche My question asked and answered. Thank you both. Really hope your Father is feeling better, Paul.
Will this work with sony a6400?
Yes 😊 👍
do you have a custom zebra on? what if you shoot backlit? like say your have a subject facing you and the background is blown out? same concept just wait till zebras are gone in the face and then leave the back overexposed?
Yeah, pretty much. The zebras are a guide to what is about to clip. But in the end the camera sometimes doesn't have enough dynamic range and you have to choose what to let go. My only golden rule when letting highlights clip if necessary is NEVER have zebras on skin.
@@visceralpsyche thanks Paul and I'm looking at where to set zebras at there is like 95,100 etc mind seeing what you have it set to?
Go to my website at www.LeemingLUTPro.com and download the guide for the camera you're using. The guide has all the supported profiles and relevant zebras to use 😊👍
@@visceralpsyche im an idiot i just saw it and wanted to change it before you saw it xP I got it!
long time user with gh5 but recently with A7c. i find the exposure at 91% zebra (for Cine gamma) a little on the dark side. I feel i should go 100% for zebra?
Cine2 Still clips at 100% so I wouldn't recommend using that number. 91% is where I found the highlight rolloff is properly done and the saturated colours don't oversaturate, but if you want to go higher I'd say don't go above 95%. HTH!
@@visceralpsyche awesome i will give it a try!
Until I get the Leeming Lut is it good practice to expose this way for V Log L both for my own grading and using the standard V Log L to 709 Lut from Panasonic?
ETTR maximises dynamic range, so it's definitely good practice in general. The official LUT will look brighter but that's because it's not a strict linear luma, whereas mine is 100% linear. HTH!
@@visceralpsyche Thanks. Not sure why there are so many negative or stupid comments here as all the questions they asked are available in the video itself and in your PDF file 😂
One last question. In resolve do I stick with the normal Resolve RGB (or whatever its called) in the initial settings or change that to the V LOG setting before editing?
@@visceralpsyche So I purchased the Luts! How the hell Panasonic got their V LOG to 709 to look so bad next to yours is insane! I feel a bit dirty like I have cheated though as my footage is basically there now after ETTR and then applying your Lut but I have no idea how I would have done that myself! Teach me the ways haha
@@JoeMaranophotography Glad you like it! Cheers for the kind feedback :)
@@visceralpsyche It really is great! I have tried grading myself and the results are okay but the colours just don't match your Lut so whilst I think it would be good for me to learn more about grading V LOG L just for fun really and experience I am more than happy for now to use the Lut all the time