you can mix aceton into epoxy to make it more "runy". it behaves like penetrating epoxy. you can use it to stabilize brittle handle material or cracks in wood.
@@JPsBladeworksBut don't use alcohols or water. They'll make the epoxy cure soft or not at all. Acetone or ethyl acetate (less harmfull) should do the trick.
Great work with the small knife and it looks nice also as always from you and also when you explain is great to hear that Thats will be fun to see next video
Great pieces, and a fun challenge for yourself. I have used isopropyl alcohol for my resin casting and it does seem to make the resin less viscous, though it also seems to heat it up; idk if it does the same thing with epoxy.
Cool project! Be careful when you're grinding in the tang. Leaving a sharp 90 degree corner where it meets the back of the blade creates a bad stress riser. After it's hardened, it is a pin point for stresses and can easily cause it to snap right there. Try using a round file to radius that corner then grind to the radius.
Teak and a few other woods are great for kitchen knives, i lean towards Red heart,Purple heart, Kingwood, Senoran desert ironwood are all my favorites. I tend to choose high density wood and most comes out of Africa. Ebony has been over harvested and is a relatively slow growing wood. A few common woods are white oak, Red Bud, ash, orange Osage, pecan, mesquite, and black cherry.
Stabilising stuff for your own use is pretty good, I just picked up a tank and pump from vevor for not a lot of money and it works actually a lot better than I expected for small amounts of handles. In terms of 'what' will stabilise, some of the oily timbers from central-south America and Africa can take a 3-4weeks, a lot of the northern hemisphere stuff you can knock over in about a week or two... then there's me with Australia hardwoods (my endless suffering) which can take up to 2-3 months to stabilise because they're incredibly dense and hard Important rule of thumb people say is that let it soak for twice the time it's been under vacuum and its worth doing a couple of cycles of soak-vacuum. But give it a go, I dunno yet if I'll save any money doing it, more a case of taking ownership of the process I guess.
It should save money in the long run i think. I will have to email vevor about that set and see if they are willing to sponser me with it. Its been a while aince ive contacted them but im sure they would be down for it.
@@JPsBladeworks what I'll next month is get some more juice and start cycling the soak-time to vacuum timbers. What I was doing was getting PVC pipe and end-caps and making upright tubes for each type of wood I'm processing. So far it will fit about 4-5 tubes in the chamber and I'll just make another 4-5 for another set to cycle through. Other reason is some timbers will take longer than others Some I can process pretty quickly. Oh- another tip for the wood, put it in the oven at about 95C (200F) for about 2-3hr just to drive off any moisture, then let them cool to room temp and add the juice.
Run your epoxy under the hot water of the sink for about 5 minutes it will thin it out and make it reap workable. I have to do it up here every time I glue up during the winter
I'd love to see someone stack a billet and then do a "fold and twist" cycle or a "fold and roll" cycle, just to see what happens! Heat the billet, hammer it out, fold it, square it, twist it, square it, hammer it out, fold it, and so on. Or use the rolling method between folds instead of the twist. Maybe multiple folds between twists or rolls? Could be a whole experimental series...
I have a 1" (diam) x 36" round bar of W1 i bought for a great price because a machine shop was trying to offload some tool steel. I don't have a forge and only ever made knives by stock removal. I would gladly give the bar for free if in return i could get maybe two 12" long blanks of that w1 forged flat to 3/16" or something around there and you could keep the rest which would probably be most of it. I've had it for two years just sitting in my steel pile, not able to really use it for any knives because of that. The only option I would have is to use my mini mill to mill some pieces of that round bar into flats which would waste a ton of material. I don't know what to do with it...
When you showed that unfinished handle I thought this was purple heart with black locust on top. It wasn't but consider it a suggestion. That should look amazing
Yes acetone will make it more runny also a warn water bath will do it also just have to be carefull not to make it to warm or you risk kicking the epoxy to early
Kudos on upping your game. Forge to shape is the way to go. Stock removal is the biggest waste of material on the planet. Kamimura's vids are the best resource for forging to shape, imo. Good job! Forge On!!!
Yeah making knives is expensive... But still for anyone new to this it dont need to be super expensive if you make nothing fancy, like camping knives as I still remember times when I did my first knife, using only three fire clay bricks, propane torch, angle grinder and Dremel tool. Then you just grab unknown steel and olive wood from fireplace... Few days later you have knife that you will never use but still will keep in home/garage. Good times. :D
Someone has to say it, so - it's not the size, it's how you use it. An absolute lie but it had to be said, lol. In all seriousness, that's a great knife and those sizes you mentioned would make a great set.
@@JPsBladeworks I have a miyabi, that one has an oval handle too. I prefer wa handles, they usually don't feel like "hard lines" in your hand, but, to me at least, feel more stable. Anyway, I need to have some disposable cash for another knife so, it'll be a while still :) They are gorgeous though, well done!
@JPsBladeworks yes. Also, if the bar was left whole, you could make each knife off the end of it, and it's a lot easier to hold/manipulate a longer bar than a short little piece, and you already have a taper at one end to start the next knife. But awesome work! Loving to watch, and inspired to get back into it after a few years off. As soon as it's warm again here!
Dont get me wrong, but a hidden tang kitchen knife is as big a no as a survival knife in that it has to be able to take a a beating without failing. An epoxy attachment is not going to take the abuse of what i put my kitchen knives through. I most of the time dont impact them but then theres the times that i do use high enough impact that i chose a heavier FULL tang knife. You knives are works of art.
Whole civilizations use hidden tang for their knives, and they seem to be fine over the millenia, so i think this will do just fine. I appreciate it, though
@JPsBladeworks I get that they work and function just fine but I've killed every one of the hidden tang knives I've bought, but I'm old farm boy who is rough on gear and demand extra heavy duty equipment for even light work. I like your work is just that when you have to duel or triple task a piece of gear in home out in the farm, or on the trail in camp it has to be able to depend on with your life, even though it will be used for a more specific job. I don't mean to offend you at all. I'm no longer able to smith or I'd be doing just that. I've had too many spinal injuries and I'm to old to get over a major surgery that will most likely put me in a nursing home or worse a f#$king wheelchair.
@JPsBladeworks it's happened to all of us.. no reason to feel bad for learning.. you do a great job and your builds are looking better everyday.. keep up the good work!
Dang dude I just looked at how many subs you have .. that's awesome. The you tube challenge gave ya a huge bump?. Either way you have real good content and I hope ya keep growing, knife making on you tube is a rough road to hoe. Like the video
It's a lot of inflation from shorts. I think i have like 140k subs from shorts. that's why i stopped posting shorts. Regardless, my channel has been growing at a good pace in the last year or so, so i am happy with the progress.
If you decide to get into stabilizing( i suggest you dont) piece of advice from a guy thats done it. Get the best pump you can afford. Thats the main component, the better the pump the easier the job. Also look into SOS stabilizer i used it over cactus and i liked it better. Good luck
I would 100% buy this set of knives, no question. Keep up the awesome work, brother!
Thanks man! I appreciate that.
you can mix aceton into epoxy to make it more "runy". it behaves like penetrating epoxy. you can use it to stabilize brittle handle material or cracks in wood.
Thanks. Good to know
@@JPsBladeworksBut don't use alcohols or water. They'll make the epoxy cure soft or not at all. Acetone or ethyl acetate (less harmfull) should do the trick.
Great work with the small knife and it looks nice also as always from you and also when you explain is great to hear that
Thats will be fun to see next video
Thank you. Glad you enioy
Great pieces, and a fun challenge for yourself. I have used isopropyl alcohol for my resin casting and it does seem to make the resin less viscous, though it also seems to heat it up; idk if it does the same thing with epoxy.
Cool project! Be careful when you're grinding in the tang. Leaving a sharp 90 degree corner where it meets the back of the blade creates a bad stress riser. After it's hardened, it is a pin point for stresses and can easily cause it to snap right there. Try using a round file to radius that corner then grind to the radius.
Nice little knife. Thought it was going to be too tall but looks super comfy to use in the end. Good idea for a challenge too.
Thank you
Simply and beautiful! Keep on!!
Great work man. 👍👍👍
Thanks 👍
you can load the syringe from the other end
Never crossed my mind
Nice little knife. I like it.
Thanks
That is a great size for daily tasks. It looks great!❤
Thank you
Nice Job. I can see that being a very useful knife.
Great for the peeling of 🍎
Really nice work.
Appreciate it.
Teak and a few other woods are great for kitchen knives, i lean towards Red heart,Purple heart, Kingwood, Senoran desert ironwood are all my favorites. I tend to choose high density wood and most comes out of Africa. Ebony has been over harvested and is a relatively slow growing wood. A few common woods are white oak, Red Bud, ash, orange Osage, pecan, mesquite, and black cherry.
I like paduak and stabilized curly maple
A master bladesmith I met one day told me “if you can forge a small knife effectively, you won’t have a problem with big knives” 🤔🔪❤️
Small knives are a bit of a pain but they also go fast as well
You should experiment with adding a bolster to your knives, it makes a huge difference in appearance.
Nice knife, seems so nice
Thanks!
Stabilising stuff for your own use is pretty good, I just picked up a tank and pump from vevor for not a lot of money and it works actually a lot better than I expected for small amounts of handles.
In terms of 'what' will stabilise, some of the oily timbers from central-south America and Africa can take a 3-4weeks, a lot of the northern hemisphere stuff you can knock over in about a week or two... then there's me with Australia hardwoods (my endless suffering) which can take up to 2-3 months to stabilise because they're incredibly dense and hard
Important rule of thumb people say is that let it soak for twice the time it's been under vacuum and its worth doing a couple of cycles of soak-vacuum. But give it a go, I dunno yet if I'll save any money doing it, more a case of taking ownership of the process I guess.
It should save money in the long run i think. I will have to email vevor about that set and see if they are willing to sponser me with it. Its been a while aince ive contacted them but im sure they would be down for it.
@@JPsBladeworks what I'll next month is get some more juice and start cycling the soak-time to vacuum timbers. What I was doing was getting PVC pipe and end-caps and making upright tubes for each type of wood I'm processing. So far it will fit about 4-5 tubes in the chamber and I'll just make another 4-5 for another set to cycle through.
Other reason is some timbers will take longer than others
Some I can process pretty quickly.
Oh- another tip for the wood, put it in the oven at about 95C (200F) for about 2-3hr just to drive off any moisture, then let them cool to room temp and add the juice.
Would grinding teeth into the tang of the knife give the epoxy a better grip? Or would it just be overkill? Padauk is one of my favorite lumbers too.
I grind small notches right before i epoxy it in. I dont show it but i always do. It adds a bit extra for the epoxy to bind onto the tang
Run your epoxy under the hot water of the sink for about 5 minutes it will thin it out and make it reap workable. I have to do it up here every time I glue up during the winter
Great tip. Thank you
Nice! I would love to have that set!
Thank you
I'd love to see someone stack a billet and then do a "fold and twist" cycle or a "fold and roll" cycle, just to see what happens!
Heat the billet, hammer it out, fold it, square it, twist it, square it, hammer it out, fold it, and so on. Or use the rolling method between folds instead of the twist. Maybe multiple folds between twists or rolls? Could be a whole experimental series...
I have a 1" (diam) x 36" round bar of W1 i bought for a great price because a machine shop was trying to offload some tool steel. I don't have a forge and only ever made knives by stock removal.
I would gladly give the bar for free if in return i could get maybe two 12" long blanks of that w1 forged flat to 3/16" or something around there and you could keep the rest which would probably be most of it.
I've had it for two years just sitting in my steel pile, not able to really use it for any knives because of that.
The only option I would have is to use my mini mill to mill some pieces of that round bar into flats which would waste a ton of material.
I don't know what to do with it...
When you showed that unfinished handle I thought this was purple heart with black locust on top. It wasn't but consider it a suggestion. That should look amazing
Chia sẻ cách rèn sắt rất hay 👍
Yes acetone will make it more runny also a warn water bath will do it also just have to be carefull not to make it to warm or you risk kicking the epoxy to early
Ill keep that warm water trick in the pocket for the next one
Wondering if it could have been made into a dagger for hiding in a belt.
It could
Hey man you can just mix your epoxy in the syringe and it dose wonders.
Acetone will "thin out" most solvent based adhesives. Epoxy, fiberglass even contact cement.
Kudos on upping your game. Forge to shape is the way to go. Stock removal is the biggest waste of material on the planet. Kamimura's vids are the best resource for forging to shape, imo. Good job!
Forge On!!!
Yes he makes great instructional videos and has a lot of skill in the forge to finish department.
Has anyone ever done gold leaf for a handle
How much would you charge to make a machete
I like the knife, but I can't help but think that the plunge area seems dangerous. If your hand slips forward, that might cause some finger damage.
Yeah making knives is expensive... But still for anyone new to this it dont need to be super expensive if you make nothing fancy, like camping knives as I still remember times when I did my first knife, using only three fire clay bricks, propane torch, angle grinder and Dremel tool. Then you just grab unknown steel and olive wood from fireplace... Few days later you have knife that you will never use but still will keep in home/garage. Good times. :D
I have plenty of those from when i started. Ugly little boogers but they hold a fine edge and are great for prying stuff in the shop
Someone has to say it, so - it's not the size, it's how you use it. An absolute lie but it had to be said, lol.
In all seriousness, that's a great knife and those sizes you mentioned would make a great set.
I like to believe that the 3 in warrior is a mighty warrior 🤣
That is a thick and beefy paring knife, but I bet it's great
Its thick where it matters but has a very sharp taper and a very sharp egde.
@@JPsBladeworks that's what she said
Do you make knives with "Wa" handles?
As soon as I can I'll be getting one of your knives :)
I tend to round mine over into an oval vs an octoganal wa handle but thats just because i like smoother edges on my handles vs hard lines
@@JPsBladeworks I have a miyabi, that one has an oval handle too. I prefer wa handles, they usually don't feel like "hard lines" in your hand, but, to me at least, feel more stable.
Anyway, I need to have some disposable cash for another knife so, it'll be a while still :)
They are gorgeous though, well done!
For smaller knives or thinner blades, you will have better luck with a lighter and smaller diameter dogs-head hammer.
Subbed.
Also, it's 'paring' as in to cut, not 'pairing' as to double up.
I didnt even know that it was a different word. Can i blame english being my second language?
@JPsBladeworks yes.
Also, if the bar was left whole, you could make each knife off the end of it, and it's a lot easier to hold/manipulate a longer bar than a short little piece, and you already have a taper at one end to start the next knife.
But awesome work!
Loving to watch, and inspired to get back into it after a few years off.
As soon as it's warm again here!
3 inches is plenty of blade. It probably has a really good personality.
The greatest of personalities some might say
👍👍👍
🙏
Dont get me wrong, but a hidden tang kitchen knife is as big a no as a survival knife in that it has to be able to take a a beating without failing. An epoxy attachment is not going to take the abuse of what i put my kitchen knives through. I most of the time dont impact them but then theres the times that i do use high enough impact that i chose a heavier FULL tang knife. You knives are works of art.
Whole civilizations use hidden tang for their knives, and they seem to be fine over the millenia, so i think this will do just fine. I appreciate it, though
@JPsBladeworks I get that they work and function just fine but I've killed every one of the hidden tang knives I've bought, but I'm old farm boy who is rough on gear and demand extra heavy duty equipment for even light work. I like your work is just that when you have to duel or triple task a piece of gear in home out in the farm, or on the trail in camp it has to be able to depend on with your life, even though it will be used for a more specific job. I don't mean to offend you at all. I'm no longer able to smith or I'd be doing just that. I've had too many spinal injuries and I'm to old to get over a major surgery that will most likely put me in a nursing home or worse a f#$king wheelchair.
Remove the plunger from the syringe ,put in your epoxy , then put the plunger back in. Problem solved..
You have no idea how stupid i feel after reading this comment and not figuring that out when i was doing it 🫣
@JPsBladeworks it's happened to all of us.. no reason to feel bad for learning.. you do a great job and your builds are looking better everyday.. keep up the good work!
Dang dude I just looked at how many subs you have .. that's awesome. The you tube challenge gave ya a huge bump?. Either way you have real good content and I hope ya keep growing, knife making on you tube is a rough road to hoe. Like the video
It's a lot of inflation from shorts. I think i have like 140k subs from shorts. that's why i stopped posting shorts. Regardless, my channel has been growing at a good pace in the last year or so, so i am happy with the progress.
Do you make machetes
I make anything as long as its fun
Paring
😢
Paring*
=P
I try to be perfect but alas i cant spell for shit 🤣
If you decide to get into stabilizing( i suggest you dont) piece of advice from a guy thats done it. Get the best pump you can afford. Thats the main component, the better the pump the easier the job. Also look into SOS stabilizer i used it over cactus and i liked it better. Good luck