Rappel Knots
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- Опубліковано 15 лис 2012
- Climbing magazine answers the age-old question of which knot is best used for joining two ropes in a double-rope rappel by showing how to tie the flat overhand, the knot recommended by the AMGA. We also show the triple barrel knot, which can be tied in the end of both ropes to keep you from rappelling off the rope.
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I like all the lessons that you have submitted
tanks so much
All good except "coiling to toss it". Very likely coils will catch each other during the rope's fall and end up a bit of a mess. You'll even notice they cut right at 3:06. Best practice is to "back stack" the rope from the anchor all the way to the ends, then gather about 5-6 coils off the top of the stack (both ropes) and toss. Should feed off the pile like well organized spaghetti ;)
That's the exact method we used for military operations, and the exact same method we used as S&R when someone got stuck or fell, and we had to go get them. the "well organized spaghetti" is the best description i've heard of for how it fed....of course now we use a "drop leg" rig that the rope is very carefully stacked into, and feeds out of as we descend to our victim we're there to help. But you do have to give them credit for at least doing a very clear job of showing the two most common knots for people who are wanting to learn, bad coil toss or not. Was showing my step-sons this video before taking them to the indoor rock wall to start training them.
Just remember to untie the knots in the ends of the rope BEFORE you try to pull the rope down. Nothing worse than having to re-climb to get your rope back. and if you only have one rope, finding someone near by to let you use their rope to re-climb. :)
and if rappelling into an overhang via a swing, do not simply let the rope ends of of your hands when you reach the next anchor. The ends may fall out of reach, and you will be stranded on the wall. Even if you let ONE strand swing, if it has a stopper knot you will not be able to retrieve your rope during the pull.
I always thought the EDK was given it's name because Toni Kurz used it to join two ropes in a last bid to save himself after cutting Angerer loose below him. He got stuck on this knot only meters away from his rescuers on the Eiger in 1936.
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If anyone gets the bright idea that a 'flat figure eight' should be even better, THAT has been shown to migrate easily under body weight, so it is a death knot. I've never been shown how the flat overhand actually rides over grooves, cracks, etc. any better than a backed up double sheet bend, so excuse me for not jumping on the quick and easy bandwagon. I'm still alive 48 years after my first rappel, so have no reason to mess with success.
It's always good to tie knots in the end of a rope to prevent rappelling off the end. In caving we generally use a bowline because it also provides a loop to put your foot into. In caving we single rope technique.
+Stan Tew I disagree. I always use a backup friction knot on my rappel so I can keep an eye on where the rope ends. The knots at the end of the rope have a tendency to get stuck when you toss each end. Just be careful and keep an eye on where the ends are when rappelling
+Taylor Rulien Wow, a reply! I posted that a while go so I am surprised to see a reply. You are correct in that being careful and keeping an eye on the ends may be sufficient. I do most of my rope work in caves where the ends my be out of sight. Things are different outside in the daylight. Thanks for the reply, it shows me that someone actually red it and thought about it.
Stan Tew
@@2caver still here reading and thinking of your replies!!!!
I have a few questions. Why not use the 8 knot to connect the two ropes together?
Why not tie the lower ends of the ropes together so the rope forms a loop? If one end of the rope snags you rill meet the knot on the end of the rope when rapelling and you will have to go back up. If you connect them you can keep on rapelling below the knot.
I also gave you a video commet to make life easier but I don't know if it worked.
nice
it's a good video but the camera angle when tying the knots should be filming the hands and rope so you can see what she's talking about. this video is mostly a shot of the climber describing the knots, like a horror film we need more close ups and gory details!
I don't know about you but if I'm joining two ropes I'm doing a Flemish Bend with overhand safetys on each side...
Would a double fishermans be sufficient for attaching two ropes for rappel?
More than sufficient, if you want to spend that much time at the anchors. If you'd rather get on another route, or back to the icy cold beer at your campsite the overhand shown here is bomber.
Double fisherman's is safer and no more likely to snag when pulling. Most accidents happen on descent, usually because people are tired, it's late in the day, weather is coming in, etc., and they're more concerned with expediency than focusing on adequate safety. Don't worry about "icy cold beer at your campsite," and instead focus on getting down in one piece. Take the few extra seconds. Any one of these knots should take less than 60s to tie.
There is nothing unsafe about an overhand in this scenario. So, back to that icy cold beer!
Would it be safe to join two fairly different diameter ropes such as a 9mm and a 10.2mm with this technique?
Very Useful Rappelling KNOT for SOLO CLIMBER
ua-cam.com/video/T636zszyWbo/v-deo.html
ABSOLUTELY NOT!!! YES in a pinch you CAN join to radically different rope diameters, HOWEVER if you are still alive at this point, I will say to you that it is NOT recommended and there is not a climbing/rappelling instructor worth their salt who would recommend such actions (joining radically different rope diameters).
Could you place a 'stopper knot' or 'fisherman's knot' as a back up knot behind the 'overhand knot'? Or would this be overkill or absolutely useless??
When she mentioned 'death knot' due to slipping I thought the same thing. WTH there is 10 inches for it.
Hey is it ok to put the knot in between the two bolt hangers or is that dangerous?? For some reason the OCD side of me is bothered by it on one side or the other but if that is the rule I will do that.
if you put it between the bolt hangers the knot will be stuck between the anchors and you wont be able to retrieve the rope once you are at the bottom
+vampov You wouldn't be able to pull the rope down if you put the knot between the hangers
Look, when rock climbing the only knot you need to know is the Jack Ketch.
Please, what rope is it? Maker and type? Thank you very much
That green rope looks an awful lot like a mammut one I own.
Can you use a figure 8 knot for the first one
No. Figure 8 untied easily when used to connect two ropes. To same diameter you can use the "death knot" as demonstrated and for different diameters double Fisherman's knot is more indicated.
Why did he have two ropes in the first place?
A normal pitch is about 45-60 meters in length.
Full length rappel.
Safer method is to use double fisherman's knot to join 2 ropes! Easier to untie as well.
Sarcasm? :) Definitely not easier to untie after load has been applied
I didn't know the words "overhand knot" even existed in the climbing community.
That girl is super cute though.
The first knot you definately do not need neither name nor instruction for.
That knot is the intuitive knot for any five year old without instructions in need for one for that matches the purposes.
That knots are not strong enough. It worse than 8 knot
Not true!!! The over hand eight is a death knot!! It roles under much lower loads than the over hand.. Tied properly the over hand is a perfectly safe good knot for repelling.. the figure 8 follow through is stronger but easier to get stuck on things when pulling the rope down.. figure 8 follow through and figure 8 over hand are completely different knots the later will kill you!!
Feeding the ropes through your anchor points without a biner or chain wears your rope down really fast.
If this is a safe knot you would use it when belaying. Noone does. The overhand weakens the breaking strength of the ropes and is a bitch to get up when it has been loaded. Even the water knot is only done on webbing.
The overhand knot actually is SAFE and recommended when rappelling off two ropes. You must leave the tails long enough and you're fine. Do some research in the official alpine/climbing instructors community.
No way should you trust the euro death knot. Just use the overhand 8. Also if you do bowline wrong the grim reaper pays a visit.
Unless you plan on repelling with 2,000 lbs of gear, the knot won't come undone.
The figure 8 rolls easier and MUCH faster than the EDK.
Euro death knot's ability to roll has NOT been debunked, but just shown to be impossible under the loads you might experience in a rappelling situation (unless your car and your partner's car) is hanging off your rope as well.
@@alextemus
Over hand 8 is a death knot it roles under much lower loads that the over hand knot.. now a figure 8 follow through is I different story very strong knot but more prone to getting stuck when pulling rope down