This is the first crystal clear comment I've heard about which side of the valve is for the water feed and which side is for the RO'd water that goes into the tank. THANK YOU!
Thanks for good tips. I have 2 ro systems. On one system the ASOV opens almost immidiately when a cup of water is drawn from tank and we love this way. On the other system, ASOV doesn't open until about 1 gal of water is drawn from ro faucet. We don't like this way because the output pressure is weak for a long period of time. Please let me know what is the normal on/off behavior of ASOV. Thanks in advance
How do you know that your ASO valve doesn't shut off? Did you remove the drain line (the one goes off membrane and connected to drain pipe) and see water keep draining forever? If this valve failed, you need to replace it asap. It is on Amazon for a few bucks. But try to get a good one from APEC.
ASO valve will still open and water still run until tank pressure psi is 2/3 of incoming tap water pressure, until then ASO valve will close. This process takes a few hours from empty tank. You can test by leaving the ro system over night and in the morning you pull out the drain line, if water still draining out, then ASO definitely need to be replaced.
there are a few simple tests that you can do. On your systems there are two special valves, one-way valve located at the output of membrane filter and ASO valve. Now you see water keep draining, then one of these two valves need to be replaced. First, there is a shutoff valve at top of water tank, you turn it 90 degree to turn off water in/out from tank. Then, you tell me if water still draining or not? If water stop running, then the check valve failed. If water water doesn't stop running, then you just buy an ASO valve (~ $10) and replace it yourself. One more thing, on the tank, close to the bottom, there is an air valve, you can use any pressure gauge to measure this pressure. Tank pressure should be 8psi when tank is empty and about 40psi when tank is full (slightly different depending on your house water pressure)
Question for you, can I return the water that filter discharges into the drain, if I put a t into the line that comes from shut off valve will that work?
You can not. Premeate pump uses concentrate (flush) water out pipe to create pressure behind membrane in filtered water pipe. But premeate pump is not very reliable and the tank itself is a pretty bad solution as it keeps pipes under pressure and creates pressure in filtered water pipe, causing massive water loss. I recommend instead to get no tank, no aso, no premeate pump. Tank leads to TDS creep, it needs to be changed anyways, creates risk of leakage as it requires pressure, works against membrane which leads to increased water loss after 30% full. Just go directflow - get or rewire two prefilters (5micron sediment and CTO coal block) to a larger membrane (like 150 gpd, as it costs same as 50gpd+tank). Then attach corresponding flow restictor behind membrane concentrate flush water pipe, as well as two T-pieces around it and a manual valve. Use that manual valve to flush your membrane once a day. Attach filtered water from membrane through one-way flow restrictor and into dedicated water tap. You also need one manual valve on water inlet, keep water tap always open. Here you have cheap easy and fast directflow system with 1:2 ratio instead of 1:10, free of tds creep and with less parts. Or go pressure-less electronics RO with two solenoids (one for inlet, one for autoflush), self-regulating pump, uv-reactor, side-stream or sequential 2x membrane configuration. And you need a switch to activate it as well as at least one double-timer relais (T1,T2; wait T1, trigger for T2, repeat) and one shottky diode. Relais will activate both solenoids to flush your system automatically and diode is to prevent current backflow, so when you press switch only inlet solenoid is opened and pump runs - and auto-flush solenoid should stay closed.
@@HECKAKYH-ADEKBATEH well the main reason for permeable pump is lowering the water waste....so not sure about this bit, but I'll look into it as it seems you know a thing or two about the RO :).
This is the first crystal clear comment I've heard about which side of the valve is for the water feed and which side is for the RO'd water that goes into the tank. THANK YOU!
Thank you very very much! You saved me big time!!!
I thought the 2 gallon tank fed the post carbon filter. I changed my valve out and now water has just been pouring into the drain
Thanks for good tips. I have 2 ro systems. On one system the ASOV opens almost immidiately when a cup of water is drawn from tank and we love this way. On the other system, ASOV doesn't open until about 1 gal of water is drawn from ro faucet. We don't like this way because the output pressure is weak for a long period of time. Please let me know what is the normal on/off behavior of ASOV. Thanks in advance
How do you know that your ASO valve doesn't shut off? Did you remove the drain line (the one goes off membrane and connected to drain pipe) and see water keep draining forever? If this valve failed, you need to replace it asap. It is on Amazon for a few bucks. But try to get a good one from APEC.
ASO valve will still open and water still run until tank pressure psi is 2/3 of incoming tap water pressure, until then ASO valve will close. This process takes a few hours from empty tank. You can test by leaving the ro system over night and in the morning you pull out the drain line, if water still draining out, then ASO definitely need to be replaced.
there are a few simple tests that you can do. On your systems there are two special valves, one-way valve located at the output of membrane filter and ASO valve. Now you see water keep draining, then one of these two valves need to be replaced.
First, there is a shutoff valve at top of water tank, you turn it 90 degree to turn off water in/out from tank. Then, you tell me if water still draining or not? If water stop running, then the check valve failed. If water water doesn't stop running, then you just buy an ASO valve (~ $10) and replace it yourself.
One more thing, on the tank, close to the bottom, there is an air valve, you can use any pressure gauge to measure this pressure. Tank pressure should be 8psi when tank is empty and about 40psi when tank is full (slightly different depending on your house water pressure)
Question for you, can I return the water that filter discharges into the drain, if I put a t into the line that comes from shut off valve will that work?
Super helpful. Thank you!
How to accommodate this aso valve alongside a permeable pump?
You can not. Premeate pump uses concentrate (flush) water out pipe to create pressure behind membrane in filtered water pipe. But premeate pump is not very reliable and the tank itself is a pretty bad solution as it keeps pipes under pressure and creates pressure in filtered water pipe, causing massive water loss. I recommend instead to get no tank, no aso, no premeate pump. Tank leads to TDS creep, it needs to be changed anyways, creates risk of leakage as it requires pressure, works against membrane which leads to increased water loss after 30% full.
Just go directflow - get or rewire two prefilters (5micron sediment and CTO coal block) to a larger membrane (like 150 gpd, as it costs same as 50gpd+tank). Then attach corresponding flow restictor behind membrane concentrate flush water pipe, as well as two T-pieces around it and a manual valve. Use that manual valve to flush your membrane once a day. Attach filtered water from membrane through one-way flow restrictor and into dedicated water tap. You also need one manual valve on water inlet, keep water tap always open. Here you have cheap easy and fast directflow system with 1:2 ratio instead of 1:10, free of tds creep and with less parts.
Or go pressure-less electronics RO with two solenoids (one for inlet, one for autoflush), self-regulating pump, uv-reactor, side-stream or sequential 2x membrane configuration. And you need a switch to activate it as well as at least one double-timer relais (T1,T2; wait T1, trigger for T2, repeat) and one shottky diode. Relais will activate both solenoids to flush your system automatically and diode is to prevent current backflow, so when you press switch only inlet solenoid is opened and pump runs - and auto-flush solenoid should stay closed.
@@HECKAKYH-ADEKBATEH well the main reason for permeable pump is lowering the water waste....so not sure about this bit, but I'll look into it as it seems you know a thing or two about the RO :).