Recipe: 1 Part Black Molasses (Not de-sulfured) 9 Parts Water 3 to 4 weeks. Check periodically. Scrub parts and leave if needed. Get at feed store. $8 bucks per gal. as Deer bait Food grade works fine too ($8 per 8oz.) I've used a (much) weaker solution with great results. Once ready: Rust/silt is easily wiped or rinsed off. Pressure washer is best applied. Scrub using steel wool, a scouring pad, or a wire brush, and dry thoroughly. Spray with breack cleaner, thinner, or primer, or use any oil. Immediately. You could use a linseed oil wipe for permanent coating. (Oxygen exposure creates "Rust-flash" Very quick) Notes: Gloves, but not necessary. Hands may smell like iron or syrup, but otherwise Non-Toxic. Curious: When you open container, you will see a silhouette of the object lying on surface as foam. The metal alloy varietie may be effected differently, that is, after months of saturation, some may deform/desolve. Containers: Small jars, plastic bins, kiddy pools, swimming pool~for cars, (4in. PVC) for long rods, trailer axles, etc. ----------------------------- Chelating effects: Chelating derives from the Latin word chele, meaning claw. The pincer shaped molecules at work here are shaped somewhat like a Dungeness crab claw. The molecules can form several bonds to a single metal ion that contains cyclic hydroxamic acids, which, in turn, bind with rust, making it water-soluble. Larger amounts of these cyclic hydroxamic acids are found in molasses derived from sugar beets rather than cane. Plants and microbes appear to use the same chelation bacteria/chemicals to remove rust, robbing oxygen from the iron oxide. Medically: (Molasses itself has many uses as a medical/food supplement specifically for iron. Black Molassis can rectify iron deficiency very quickly, too much to mention here). Agriculturally, Chelating agents bind to minerals and make them available to plants. Related chelating agents are administered for metal poisoning for the release of lead and mercury toxins. The body is then able to excrete contaminant as it becomes soluble. Other agents:) ===================================== Electrolytic cleaning: Use potassium carbonate as an electrolyte, not nasty like other chemicals. Note: stainless sreel annod cathode will make a toxic byproduct. Best to use steel. Potassium does not interfere with soil drainage and soil structure as sodium will. ================ Phosphoric acid Citric acid can be found in health food stores and in the baking aisle, works like a charm, but it will also remove paint and other coatings. 3tsp. citric acid bowl of hot water. submerge rusty metal object sit overnight. Next day, scrub the freshly dissolved rust using steel wool, a scouring pad, or a wire brush, and dry thoroughly.
You could use it as a sanding disk first😂 I used to use electricity, but I like the Molasis if you have time on your side. This methoud sometimes removes good metal. Depends on what you need.
Excellent idea. But how many volts did you apply? Cheers from Australia 👍
Thank you! I used a 12 volts DC power supply
Recipe:
1 Part Black Molasses
(Not de-sulfured)
9 Parts Water
3 to 4 weeks. Check periodically.
Scrub parts and leave if needed.
Get at feed store.
$8 bucks per gal. as Deer bait
Food grade works fine too ($8 per 8oz.)
I've used a (much) weaker solution with great results.
Once ready:
Rust/silt is easily wiped or rinsed off.
Pressure washer is best applied.
Scrub using steel wool, a scouring pad, or a wire brush, and dry thoroughly.
Spray with breack cleaner, thinner, or primer, or use any oil. Immediately.
You could use a linseed oil wipe for permanent coating.
(Oxygen exposure creates "Rust-flash" Very quick)
Notes:
Gloves, but not necessary. Hands may smell like iron or syrup, but otherwise Non-Toxic.
Curious: When you open container, you will see a silhouette of the object lying on surface as foam.
The metal alloy varietie may be effected differently, that is, after months of saturation, some may deform/desolve.
Containers:
Small jars, plastic bins, kiddy pools, swimming pool~for cars,
(4in. PVC) for long rods, trailer axles, etc.
-----------------------------
Chelating effects:
Chelating derives from the Latin word chele, meaning claw.
The pincer shaped molecules at work here are shaped somewhat like a Dungeness crab claw. The molecules can form several bonds to a single metal ion that contains cyclic hydroxamic acids, which, in turn, bind with rust, making it water-soluble.
Larger amounts of these cyclic hydroxamic acids are found in molasses derived from sugar beets rather than cane.
Plants and microbes appear to use the same chelation bacteria/chemicals to remove rust, robbing oxygen from the iron oxide.
Medically:
(Molasses itself has many uses as a medical/food supplement specifically for iron.
Black Molassis can rectify iron deficiency very quickly, too much to mention here).
Agriculturally, Chelating agents bind to minerals and make them available to plants.
Related chelating agents are administered for metal poisoning for the release of lead and mercury toxins. The body is then able to excrete contaminant as it becomes soluble.
Other agents:)
=====================================
Electrolytic cleaning: Use potassium carbonate as an electrolyte, not nasty like other chemicals.
Note: stainless sreel annod cathode will make a toxic byproduct. Best to use steel.
Potassium does not interfere with soil drainage and soil structure as sodium will.
================
Phosphoric acid
Citric acid can be found in health food stores and in the baking aisle, works like a charm, but it will also remove paint and other coatings.
3tsp. citric acid
bowl of hot water.
submerge rusty metal object sit overnight. Next day, scrub the freshly dissolved rust using steel wool, a scouring pad, or a wire brush, and dry thoroughly.
You could use it as a sanding disk first😂
I used to use electricity, but I like the Molasis if you have time on your side. This methoud sometimes removes good metal. Depends on what you need.