A series in which a simple French car makes me look utterly inept. In this episode, I get irate as everything contrives to prevent me doing a simple brake job
Hi and thanks for the video I have been building cars myself for 40 years and when I encounter the problem of brake pipes that are stuck and want to break I do the following 1) loosen pipes as you also did 2) Then remove the bolts from the cylinder and pull it out from the anchor plate 3) then I unscrew the cylinder without breaking the pipe 4) same procedure when assembling the rear lens so no problem
You unscrew the cylinder from the pipe nut. You hold the nut stationary with the spanner and turning the cylinder after you have undone it from the backplate.
Hi. If you open the 2 10mm screws at the back of cylinder first, you can turn the whole cylinder down by holding the back with the 8mm tool, nothing will break.
When I had to do this job, I took the two bolds that hold the brake cylinder out, pulled the cylinder towards me, held the nut tight with a pair of pliers, and turned the cylinder afround. Nothing broke! Put everything in reverse order back.
Well done on finishing it, this is my least favourite job at work! A tip if you ever have to do it again, use a long thin bar to wiggle/push the stud through. I’ve enjoyed your videos, keep up the good work!
Keeping the car original and genuine is nice. sometimes, replacing a stupid tube impossible to fit with a aero quality flexible (like on motorbikes) may be a good choice
I toyed with the idea. I would have still had to work out how to mate it with the tiny pipes and non-standard rubber-type connection, so in the end, either option would have been a PITA
Just saw a film about pakistani mechanics and their brake repairs. Your brake cylinder and brake line would have been perfectly okay for them i guess. They would propably just have been pushing the pistons out, using some emery cloth cleaning the cylinders inside - and then reinstalling new pistons with new gaskets - voila! And I bought me a standard 'Rohrsteckschluessel' 42mm decades ago (more or less ordinary steel; I still have it), made it red hot and forged it over the old nut - tata! (And a great saving, too.)
I have dealt with the same problem till an old mecanicien told me not to turn the 8 mm nipple but to losen the cilinder and turn the cilinder. And that works super! Nothing wont brake!
I wonder if... with a lathe a converter nipple from Citroen to the standard flares we're all used to could be employed along with a flexi pipe to save the coil and all that faff? Just a thought that could be stupid...?
Is there any reason why you couldn't modify the tricky bolt through hole job...i.e. drill out the hole to a bigger size that'll still retain head of bolt?
I just did the same job - challenging to say the least! Where the curly ends go into the slots on the outer arm mine are not sitting in the 2 slots. Did you have to bend yours a little to get them to stay in the slots?
Yes they're flexible tabs, spot welded on one side and openable on the other. There should be a rubber sleeve that the tab holds in place to stop the brake line rubbing. Sometimes the tabs can get a little rusted to the arm, but a screwdriver worked fine for me
Hi and thanks for the video
I have been building cars myself for 40 years
and when I encounter the problem of brake pipes that are stuck and want to break
I do the following
1) loosen pipes as you also did
2) Then remove the bolts from the cylinder and pull it out from the anchor plate
3) then I unscrew the cylinder without breaking the pipe
4) same procedure when assembling the rear lens
so no problem
"Unlike all other car..." Welcome to Citroën!
You unscrew the cylinder from the pipe nut. You hold the nut stationary with the spanner and turning the cylinder after you have undone it from the backplate.
Hi. If you open the 2 10mm screws at the back of cylinder first, you can turn the whole cylinder down by holding the back with the 8mm tool, nothing will break.
Ahhhhh! Thanks Tom! That seems obvious now, yes.
Burton has a tool to help install the curly brake line. There is a video on how to use it.
@@anthonyparkinson1263 Good old Burton. I'll check that out. Now that I know the trick to not breaking it in the first place, I hope to never need one
There : ua-cam.com/video/Od7ISwNhvys/v-deo.html
When I had to do this job, I took the two bolds that hold the brake cylinder out, pulled the cylinder towards me, held the nut tight with a pair of pliers, and turned the cylinder afround. Nothing broke! Put everything in reverse order back.
Thanks Harry. I wish I’d had the foresight, imagination or experience to have done that!
Well done on finishing it, this is my least favourite job at work! A tip if you ever have to do it again, use a long thin bar to wiggle/push the stud through. I’ve enjoyed your videos, keep up the good work!
Thanks for the encouragement! Can you imagine working on the production line and doing that job. Man!
Keeping the car original and genuine is nice. sometimes, replacing a stupid tube impossible to fit with a aero quality flexible (like on motorbikes) may be a good choice
I toyed with the idea. I would have still had to work out how to mate it with the tiny pipes and non-standard rubber-type connection, so in the end, either option would have been a PITA
Nice vids of the 2cv. Greetings from the Netherlands
Just saw a film about pakistani mechanics and their brake repairs. Your brake cylinder and brake line would have been perfectly okay for them i guess. They would propably just have been pushing the pistons out, using some emery cloth cleaning the cylinders inside - and then reinstalling new pistons with new gaskets - voila!
And I bought me a standard 'Rohrsteckschluessel' 42mm decades ago (more or less ordinary steel; I still have it), made it red hot and forged it over the old nut - tata! (And a great saving, too.)
I have dealt with the same problem till an old mecanicien told me not to turn the 8 mm nipple but to losen the cilinder and turn the cilinder. And that works super! Nothing wont brake!
Ha ha! Yes, you're not the first one to make that observation. I wish I'd had the intelligence to work that out for myself in the moment :)
La 2cv est un plaisir en mécanique, c'est un état d'esprit 😉
There is a need of some serious anger management when you're dealing with these cars sometimes 🤣. Can't live without one though. // AMI 8 owner
I wonder if... with a lathe a converter nipple from Citroen to the standard flares we're all used to could be employed along with a flexi pipe to save the coil and all that faff? Just a thought that could be stupid...?
My goodness... So much pain!
the most simple to get out every nut is heating with a blow -torch very heat
if u mean the nut that holds the brake pipe into the cylinder you might boil up the brake fluid
Is there any reason why you couldn't modify the tricky bolt through hole job...i.e. drill out the hole to a bigger size that'll still retain head of bolt?
Maybe. If I was doing this regularly, I'd definitely find some kind of hack
Hi and thanks for the video.can you give me the dimensions of the centralising tool? so i will make one
I'm not sure which tool you mean. I no longer have the car or any of the tools I bought for it though, sorry.
@@corrieb74 its ok never mind.thanks for replying
By the way, you travel France quite often?
I'm moving there permanently in January
🎉❤😊
I just did the same job - challenging to say the least! Where the curly ends go into the slots on the outer arm mine are not sitting in the 2 slots. Did you have to bend yours a little to get them to stay in the slots?
Yes they're flexible tabs, spot welded on one side and openable on the other. There should be a rubber sleeve that the tab holds in place to stop the brake line rubbing. Sometimes the tabs can get a little rusted to the arm, but a screwdriver worked fine for me