It’s honestly so so great. I didn’t think I needed it either but it’s kinda changed how I film since I did pick one up and now I don’t think I can go back
Really nice, but for me, not using the FX3 XLR top handle is a no-go. As a documentary shooter, sound is of uttermost importance. I use an AVX system, directly connected to the XLR ports + a shotgun connected to the mini jack. I admit that the original FX3 top handle is not the best but once you upgrade it with the SMALLRIG MD3490 XLR Extensión Rig and the SmallRig MD3990 Top Plate it changes everything. On the MD3990 top plate, I add a 2172 Mini Quick Release NATO Rail + a SmallRig 2905B Monitor Mount to attach my 5" portkeys BM5 III monitor connected using the 2957B Smallrig Ultra-Slim 4K HDMI Cable. Instead of the Cineback, I just use the (relatively new) Small Rig 4064B Compact V-Mount Battery Mounting System that directly attaches on the NATO rail of the TILTA Full Camera Cage (also works with Smallrig cage). It's an L-shaped design, compact, 230gr, tool-less mounting system for V-mount battery that doesnt require any rods. Compared to the Cineback, it doesnt have so many D-tap and doesn't have power switch to avoid drain when the camera is not in use... but for me this is not a dealbreaker and doesn't outweigh the fact of being able to use the FX3 XLr handle. The FX3 flip screen can also be safely tucked away on the side of the V-lock and serve as a control screen, just like on the Cineback. I also use the VB99 batteries which are awesome and power the camera via USB-C. I dont use a dummy battery because I like the battery to remain closed and in case my V-mount battery runs out of power, the camera doesn't turn off as the internal battery takes over and I have plenty of time to hot swap a fully charged V-mount battery. My Portkeys monitor connects to the 8V output of the V-lock. I get between 4 and 5 hours of runtime with a fully charged VB99 battery. I also use the SmallRig 3847 Side Handle, that can rotate and as a NATO quick release system to attach on the left side of the cage. That offers a really stable way to hold camera. And that's my alternative to the CINEBACK but I certainly look forward to see if there is a version in the future that will allow to use the FX3/FX30 XLR top handle. Congrats for your video.
$1200 to fix my A1 with a full motherboard replacement later, SONY IS NOT KIDDING with their battery warnings. I used the same dummy battery in the FX3 and A1, and never had an issue with the FX3 (perhaps we have the fan to thank??) but I 10/10 recommend to anyone looking for a Dtap-Sony power solution, just invest in the KondorBlue 65W Power Delivery Dtap-USB-c cables. I’ve loved them, and had no issues. Also convenient to power laptop/ipad on the go with a Vmount. Again, never had a problem with FX3, and obviously not an option if you NEED the usb-c for another in/output option, but I think one of these cables will 100% pay for itself in not needing to fix a Sony camera’s overcooked internals.
My Canon R5 also got its motherboard/sensor cooked from using the Tilta dummy battery so do be careful with dummy batteries, I personally will not be using them ever because of my experiences. It also fried something in my 80d which makes it freeze and shut off at times. My R5 had coverage so CarePak for the win! Got it replaced for free, got to love canons extended warranty!
I've watched many camera rigging videos buts as of today, April 29th, 2024 your videos is the MOST THOROUGH. Your list helps me tremendously especially when you demonstrate in details how to use each of them. Of course, I won't use all of your recommendations but most of them. My favorite is Cineback. I've never seen anything like that before. Thank you very much.
Excellent review/overview of the Cineback. 👍🏾 The one thing I changed in my setup was the D-tap to dummy battery connection. I went with D-tap to USB-C PD. This way I am able to have a battery in the camera and have extended power or if I need to break the rig down, I'll already have a charged battery. Also the D-tap splitter's orientation causes me to have to route the cable against itself instead of going directly behind the 3d printed part. Other than that the rig is solid and does improve the stability of the footage! Great video! Keep up the great work! 👍🏾
I'm also considering going down the D-tap to USB-C PD route. Can I ask which cable did you buy? For some reason it's very difficult to find reliable D-tap to USB-C PD cables online (other than the Kondor Blue, which costs a lot to ship to where I live). I have seen some horror stories people bricking their cameras with D-tap cables ,although it's usually the dummy battery set-up.
@@kamoshikaproductions343 I went with the Kondor blue cable. I got it for $31.00 at a local camera shop. There is another route you can go as well IF you go with the Small Rig V-mount battery. You can go directly from the Small Rig battery to your camera. The battery has built in circuit protection and a screen on the back that shows all your charging info. I will say that the issue with using the Kondor Blue (D-tap to USC-C PD) cable is that there's a small plastic part in the middle of the cable that takes some work to get it tucked in behind the 3D printed part of the Cineback. The other issue is that the D-tap connections are oriented in such a way that really puts stress on the short Kondor Blue D-Tap to USB-C cable. I am waiting to see if I will be able to flip the D-tap splitter board over. I hope this helps.
@@PurposedLensPhotoMedia Thanks a lot for taking the time to comment. I wasn't aware of the downsides of the Kondor Blue cable and the possibility of powering straight through a SmallRig battery. And yeah, I'm sure there will be new upgraded additions to the Cineback so hopefully Caleb will flip the ports over.
I loved this! The only thing is that for my work flow, I'd need an XLR port and a way to mount an audio receiver so that whoever is working boom can sync the audio with the camera off rip
Thank you for the video man. I just recently got my first camera and bought the fx 30. I didn't know how i wanted it built and was struggling to figure out what all these parts and pieces on camera rigs did. You really simplified it and explained why each part was essential for your needs. So i used a lot of your build in mine with some minor tweaks. But you really hit every essential part of the build i was looking and matched the compact style i wanted compared to most builds for so im super excited to start filming with this new camera rig and appreciate the video!!!!
One thing I just got for my rig is a smallrig foldable qaudraped support stand for the bottom of it. It sits balanced and very sturdy with the 11.4lbs of camera on top of it. I would highly recommend it.
At this point really every DP should probably want to own an FX3 lEven if its just their other camera alongside XY. This thing is so flexible. It does low light, it does slomo and without crop, it does 16bit raw over HDMI, it is full frame, great for any shoots that wants that larger format look. Its an incredible device.
Thank you for introducing me to the Cineback! It's made a BIG difference in our A7 and FX3 setup. I use the Hollyland monitor as well and you mention in the video buying a second one to transmit to as a director / client view of the shoot. Did you know that you can transmit to up to 4 mobile devices that have the Hollyland app installed? No need to spend on another Hollyland!
Love the rig. I am waiting for the A7IV version, but I might just buy Smallrig's compact adjustable v-mount plate that includes an arca swiss plate. Combined with a v-mount battery with USB-C and DC out that's already enough for my camera and monitor. On the camera itself, I have a cage, side handle and top handle. The only thing I'll have to figure out is cable routing.
That's a good one, but I am using the smaller Smallrig 4064. So the same thing, but without the rods or breast padding since I have the rig on a tripod most of the time.
yeh i found it around the same time as the cineback video, that is allways sold out, i owned most of those parts allready. i might 3d print my own version, that you could use the sony handle and other stuff.@@MiroSays
One thing I don't like, and it is not that I am a finniky person, is the color of the cables. To make it more neat and less conspicuous, black cables instead of the odd light blue color cables, should've been the norm to make it look even more solid. And I know it is the fault of Condor Blue which, by the way, makes fantastic cables which I own myself.
The cineback is amazing and I love it. I think it's a great platform for the fx3/30 and makes that camera feasible for the work I do. I would say that while it is fantastic it does not rival the fx6. In a cinema camera two of the biggest things I'm looking for are internal ND and easily accessible buttons for my 1st. There are workarounds but unfortunately this rig doesn't solve those two aspects. I still love the rig and use it often but the button access leaves a lot to be desired.
I mean a matte box (even a clamp on like the tilta mirage) easily solves the internal ND issue, and now you also have variable ND with IBIS. The buttons I can understand, but I feel like once you know your way around the fx3/30 it's pretty easy to get to things quickly. But to each their own of course!
just finished watching this vid and it lead to me watch a few more especially the one with the zoom f3. call it right timing or what not I found that this video came in time when I just finished a shoot with to camera rigs that were all rail based and it was annoying how small rig offers so much but nothing in an eco system that works just right like the cine back. I feel like we will always dream to have our s3 fx3 seniors to get closer to a true cine rig and there are so many things we just need to cover to get there. anyways I love the humble approach to your videos how you lay out clear your intent and idea and why content like this is much needed I. the space. I stop watching film making content around camera stuff because it's getting out of hand. however your stuff has been a breath of fresh air.
Rigid Pro have made a FX3 handle version....im still working out a few flaws in the use of the 8Sinn Cage which is pretty much awful. They said it was the best cage for the handle version but it leave so much to be desired. I should be finalizing the build to shoot a Military Action short film on Feb 3, I might try to talk about his a bit on my personal youtube channel or facebook. I like the 3D print a bit better than cineback and a nice voltage meter on the side as well.
There's a ton that could go wrong using a dummy battery. I'd highly recommend using a PD UBC Cable to D-Tap to charge the internal battery using the USBC port on the FX3. The whole open battery door situation is a disaster waiting to happen too. If for whatever reason, your V-Mount battery fails or gets accidentally switched off, your FX3 goes with it and that's a big no-no, especially if you're recording. This one works perfectly from Amazon, "Alvin's Cables USB-C Type-C PD to D-tap Power Cable" even though it doesn't have a slick blue Kondor Blue branding lol I'd rather sacrifice a little style for a working FX3.
@@kylemeshna was afraid you’d say that. Trying to avoid spending the $ and going full Polar Pro ecosystem, but we realized during a test yesterday that glare could be an issue without the box. Thanks for responding!
Look its got some things going for it but no XLR input, cant record MXF due to camera limitations. No its not better than a properly rigged FX6. And by the time you've spent that much rigging an FX3, you may has well bought an FX6.
This looks sweet! I'm curious why you didn't just plug in the v-mount battery directly to the FX3 via USBC and have a Sony battery in the FX3. It seems like that would be better than what you're doing there with that dummy battery.
Yeah main reason was it was an extra switch to power the camera this way. Which is just pure laziness. I have the dtap to USBc as well and sometimes will rig it that way, but it’s hard to manage that cable with the big block on it
every time i hear "best cinema camera" in a camera that doesnt have internal nd, timecode, zebras & all of those things & is just a more dynamic a7siii i lose 30 minutes off my life. :/ that being said. this build is SICK. and the cineback is GENIUS. and i hope the next instalment of the fx3 actually matches its price point bc u sony folks deserve better than what u settle for:3.
Fair criticism. I think filter systems are good enough to solve the ND issue and having IBIS instead is a good trade off that a lot of people might prefer. Almost every monitor has zebras. They also added time code to the FX3… albeit more cumbersome than it should be. Agreed on price point. Wish there was an option without the XLR handle since that sells for $600 on its own…
@@ezekial717 no easy way to no exactly, but any movies shot on the fx9, Venice, and arri Alexa, Amira or or SXT and many more since most “professional cinema cameras” from the past decade or two have a built in ND of some sort. My fx6 has one and it’s amazing to not have to carry an ND. I might have to sell it and get an fx3 which would be a huge bummer despite the fx3 still being a great camera. But once you go built in ND, hard to go back. My x100v has a built in ND and it’s such a convenient time saver, flick a button and boom ND, it’s brilliant.
in exactly every scenario where u dont want that specifically stable and fluid motion. people need to learn how powerfull and versatile hand held camera is...
@@kylemeshna I was thinking that if we were able to have the native hotshoe on the Sony Fx3/30, we’d be able to have the Lidar be Low and close to the sensor while letting the monitor and top handle be hooked to the Cineback for the same stability prior. Hopefully he’s been working on having the Focus Pro Lidar factored into a modded design!!
I will make a purchase soon on the FX3. Wanted to ask what do you think if I pair it with a ZEISS CP.3 50mm T2.1 Compact Prime Lens (Sony E Mount, Feet) . BTW great vid. Thank yh for the information of the cage, which I will also purchase
@@kylemeshna you could add a cheese plate in front of the v mount for additional top mounting, also mondo ties by kondor blue, if you need to flip or close screen with this one it’s more time consuming to break down
Great informative video. Cineback is great to use if you don't use LWS standards. I'd prefer usb-c power via vb99 than a record button. Also you can keep recording if vb99 is out of juice.
I got the cineback and did usb c to d tap. I like having the interal battery in there so like you said if the v mount loses power or even if I accidentally hit that power switch my camera will stay on.
Really cool, Kyle! I was wondering: can you use a USB cable from the FX3 directly to the V Mount Battery so that you don't have to use a dummy battery?
Yes you can. Either USBc to USBc or DTap to USBc will work. You just have to turn on both the Cineback and the camera separately, since turning off the cineback will only disable to charging to the in-camera battery. Minor convenience though and certainly much safer for the camera
so i added everything up and the total for me based on living in GA(you know shipping costs vary) is 1,188.00. so if you round up itll basically cost you about 1,200.
Hey Kyle great information here. I’m making the (costly) investment in the FX3 with lenses and using your links as a template for fitting it out. Question for you. I’ll be using this for some travel video, so I’ll be moving around and filming quite a bit. Is there a bag you recommend that will fit this build out for the most part without having to deconstruct it every time?
i have a question, i have a different monitor wanna use but does the monitor mount work on the shimbol memory which is the one im getting? or do i need to get a different monitor mount for it? thank you
Looks like a potentially neat solution. But.... I'm not a fan of having the power delivered only via a dummy battery as there is a risk of file corruption if unpowered accidently or you need to swap out a V-mount cell. Also to overcome the 'Sony battery nag' I personally favour using an OEM Sony battery with additional power being topped up from a V-mount via the USB-C port. I also have difficulty ignoring the risk (possibly overstated) of 'bricking' a Sony body by using a dummy battery if/when things go wrong on voltage delivery and the dummy cell gets 'overvolted' possibly as a result of the voltage conversion circuit (between V-mount and FX3) developing a fault. On audio it does seem a pity to bypass one of the main benefits of having an FX3 (HQ audio via powered XLR into a digital interface). OK not really a problem with one of several workarounds eg using a time code cable on FX3 with something like several Deity TC-1 units synced together and a separate TC jammed field recorder. Or more simply just having something plugged into the 3.5mm audio jack. One advantage of an FX3 vs FX6 (there are many downsides like no inbuilt ND) is the ability to work in a more minimalist fashion - small, light, quick, inconspicuously and/or gimbal friendly. For that, there is merit in being able to quickly reconfigure the rig into say just a basic body with small prime lens. The inbuilt battery is needed for this - another reason I would shun the dummy battery suggestion. Notwithstanding my slight reservations there is much to like and it's good to have options. I feel a 'cineback' solution will really come into it's own if a way can be found to still utilise the Sony XLR audio handle. SmallRig already have a few parts to enhance this handle (extension to rear for better ergo and plate for top (better protection of plastic parts and option to add other components).
Just put out a new video on a workaround for audio instead of the XLR handle. And yeah you can use the DTap to USBc cable instead of a dummy battery if you’re worried about the dummy battery issue
I created a somewhat similar rig with the SmallRig V Mount battery plate and a rotating Tilta top handle- all on a Tilta cage... I use the USB-C connection to power my FX30 - so no dummy battery needed for me. Does this Cineback work with the Title cage - if so I might give it a try - just not worth having to purchase an entire new cage system at this time for me??
Yeah it does. In Calebs original video when he is releasing the cine back, he specifically states you must get the small tilta cage in order for it to fit into the cineback
I Just bought a FX3 and I thought I was sold on the M1 enhanced but I'm so torn between the M1 and the LH7P / 5P ii for the Sony integration. Was it just the confusing interface on the portkeys that made you choose the M1? This is the last piece I need to finish up my build, any insight on the core reasons you chose this is appreciated!
UI was definitely a huge consideration. The LH7P was also a bit large for my liking and I really liked the Sony integration, but then it got disconnected somehow and I haven't been able to get it re-configured to connect again
@@kylemeshna that would be almost the entire reason I got the port keys and if it’s unreliable it defeats the purpose. I’ll go with my gut and stay with the m1. Thanks for the help!
Hahah you can’t please everyone! I think the people wanting music far outweigh the ones who don’t. Maybe split the difference, like music but it’s very chill and very low? All good either way lol
If you’re on a gimbal, I don’t think you are gonna want to have many of these things on the camera. I’d strip down the camera to only the FX3 and then rig your monitor to the gimbal itself
@@kylemeshna also if I am looking to cut some cost on this build, losing the cineback for the small rig v mount. Is the only drawback that you cant cut the power via a switch? will everything else work without the cineback?
@@kylemeshna You can order custom DTap cables from Alvin's cables for fairly cheap. I had them flip the orientation of my DTap so that the cable comes out of the Positive side rather than the Negative side of the connector. I think I paid $19 per cable, and you can customize the length, specify coiled vs non-coiled, etc. It's a huge convenience and I'd highly recommend checking it out.
Touch focus needs to be done on the fx3’s screen. But the Portkeys I linked in the description does have a wireless control function that allows you to do touch focus on the monitor directly
Is there an external hard drive that you recommend? Or are SD cards the only way? New to all this. When I've searched on youtube for recommendations I can't find a good video
Does it have auto nd? So how is it better than the FX6? The point of the FX3 is it's portability and size. Rigging it like this is like buying a mini cooper and then rigging it out to be a pickup truck. Ridiculous and waste of money.
All I see now is shooters rigging out their FX30/3 to basically function like an FX6/FS5/FS7, BUT all the cash you spent on all the stuff to rig it out you could've had an FS5/FX6. Not to mention you can spend $10,000 on rigging out your FX30 and still NEVER have true built-in VND, XLR proper audio or the button layout that we all crave for on the FX6/FS5/C300/C200/UrsaMini/EVO etc... Maybe someone can explain to me why you'd build out an FX3 at the price of over what an FX6 costs. FX3 $3,898.00 Monitor $300 Cage $75 Side Handle $80 Cineback $330 Vmount Batt $200 Top Handle $100 Addition costs (cables, dummy Batt, rails, mounts, etc) $150 Total: $5,133 FX6 $4,800-$5900 (used market) Adorama, eBay, KEH etc No additional costs after you purchase the FX6 (other than media and lenses) it comes with literally everything listed in the above FX3 build. Except it's all Sony proprietary so it's meant to function together out of the box. It comes with a battery, it comes with a top handle, it comes with a side handle, no need for a cage, no need for cable management, no need for a monitor, no need for VND, no need to wonder where your proper audio is coming from. The above FX3 kit btw is even actually more than $5133 because you have to factor in your audio solution and your VND. Just those two alone will cost you at minimum $350. You can use 3.5mm into the FX3 but once again that's not production quality audio. You can then say I'll just get an FX30 and bump the cost down to $3500, but then at that cost you could have x2 FS5 Mii or x2 Canon C300 Mii or x2 Mini Ursas or x2 C200s or x3 FS7s even ($900/ea), which btw records 10bit422 internally. You can get three FS7s for $2800 on Adorama. Multiple camera angles holds WAY more value than the tiny image quality bump. I'm pretty confident that in a blind test you couldn't tell the difference between the FS5 and the FX30. In some ways I feel like the FS5 looks better lol. Even the F55 or an F3 looks better than an FX30, imo, and you can pick up an older Cine Alta for dirt cheap now, with all the bells and whistles. If you can't produce a beautiful visual story using an FS7, you won't magically be able to do it with an FX3.
That Cineback is brilliant. I honestly don’t need it, but still really want one. Caleb is making rad stuff and I love it.
It’s honestly so so great. I didn’t think I needed it either but it’s kinda changed how I film since I did pick one up and now I don’t think I can go back
smallrig 4063 B is really nice, i got it.
Any idea when they're back in stock? Looks sold out for a while already!
@@PeterVanKeerhe does really small drops (like 50 units). So next I think is in March. Should say on the site.
Really nice, but for me, not using the FX3 XLR top handle is a no-go. As a documentary shooter, sound is of uttermost importance. I use an AVX system, directly connected to the XLR ports + a shotgun connected to the mini jack.
I admit that the original FX3 top handle is not the best but once you upgrade it with the SMALLRIG MD3490 XLR Extensión Rig and the SmallRig MD3990 Top Plate it changes everything.
On the MD3990 top plate, I add a 2172 Mini Quick Release NATO Rail + a SmallRig 2905B Monitor Mount to attach my 5" portkeys BM5 III monitor connected using the 2957B Smallrig Ultra-Slim 4K HDMI Cable.
Instead of the Cineback, I just use the (relatively new) Small Rig 4064B Compact V-Mount Battery Mounting System that directly attaches on the NATO rail of the TILTA Full Camera Cage (also works with Smallrig cage). It's an L-shaped design, compact, 230gr, tool-less mounting system for V-mount battery that doesnt require any rods.
Compared to the Cineback, it doesnt have so many D-tap and doesn't have power switch to avoid drain when the camera is not in use... but for me this is not a dealbreaker and doesn't outweigh the fact of being able to use the FX3 XLr handle. The FX3 flip screen can also be safely tucked away on the side of the V-lock and serve as a control screen, just like on the Cineback.
I also use the VB99 batteries which are awesome and power the camera via USB-C. I dont use a dummy battery because I like the battery to remain closed and in case my V-mount battery runs out of power, the camera doesn't turn off as the internal battery takes over and I have plenty of time to hot swap a fully charged V-mount battery. My Portkeys monitor connects to the 8V output of the V-lock. I get between 4 and 5 hours of runtime with a fully charged VB99 battery.
I also use the SmallRig 3847 Side Handle, that can rotate and as a NATO quick release system to attach on the left side of the cage. That offers a really stable way to hold camera.
And that's my alternative to the CINEBACK but I certainly look forward to see if there is a version in the future that will allow to use the FX3/FX30 XLR top handle.
Congrats for your video.
Same here, Caled did make an extension unit though that goes on top of cineback. Basically giving you an 'FX6 Style' top handle with audio.
Check out Battle Tested Film Gear, who made one super cool that is compatible with the handle
$1200 to fix my A1 with a full motherboard replacement later, SONY IS NOT KIDDING with their battery warnings. I used the same dummy battery in the FX3 and A1, and never had an issue with the FX3 (perhaps we have the fan to thank??) but I 10/10 recommend to anyone looking for a Dtap-Sony power solution, just invest in the KondorBlue 65W Power Delivery Dtap-USB-c cables. I’ve loved them, and had no issues. Also convenient to power laptop/ipad on the go with a Vmount. Again, never had a problem with FX3, and obviously not an option if you NEED the usb-c for another in/output option, but I think one of these cables will 100% pay for itself in not needing to fix a Sony camera’s overcooked internals.
dang... definitely don't like hearing that horror story!
My Canon R5 also got its motherboard/sensor cooked from using the Tilta dummy battery so do be careful with dummy batteries, I personally will not be using them ever because of my experiences. It also fried something in my 80d which makes it freeze and shut off at times. My R5 had coverage so CarePak for the win! Got it replaced for free, got to love canons extended warranty!
This is super clean and the best rig out I've seen for the FX3/FX30
I've watched many camera rigging videos buts as of today, April 29th, 2024 your videos is the MOST THOROUGH. Your list helps me tremendously especially when you demonstrate in details how to use each of them. Of course, I won't use all of your recommendations but most of them. My favorite is Cineback. I've never seen anything like that before. Thank you very much.
That CineBack is awesome... but that price is wild. $199 would be a fair price at the prosumer level!
Excellent review/overview of the Cineback. 👍🏾
The one thing I changed in my setup was the D-tap to dummy battery connection. I went with D-tap to USB-C PD. This way I am able to have a battery in the camera and have extended power or if I need to break the rig down, I'll already have a charged battery.
Also the D-tap splitter's orientation causes me to have to route the cable against itself instead of going directly behind the 3d printed part.
Other than that the rig is solid and does improve the stability of the footage!
Great video! Keep up the great work! 👍🏾
I'm also considering going down the D-tap to USB-C PD route.
Can I ask which cable did you buy?
For some reason it's very difficult to find reliable D-tap to USB-C PD cables online (other than the Kondor Blue, which costs a lot to ship to where I live).
I have seen some horror stories people bricking their cameras with D-tap cables ,although it's usually the dummy battery set-up.
@@kamoshikaproductions343 I went with the Kondor blue cable. I got it for $31.00 at a local camera shop.
There is another route you can go as well IF you go with the Small Rig V-mount battery. You can go directly from the Small Rig battery to your camera. The battery has built in circuit protection and a screen on the back that shows all your charging info.
I will say that the issue with using the Kondor Blue (D-tap to USC-C PD) cable is that there's a small plastic part in the middle of the cable that takes some work to get it tucked in behind the 3D printed part of the Cineback.
The other issue is that the D-tap connections are oriented in such a way that really puts stress on the short Kondor Blue D-Tap to USB-C cable.
I am waiting to see if I will be able to flip the D-tap splitter board over.
I hope this helps.
@@PurposedLensPhotoMedia
Thanks a lot for taking the time to comment.
I wasn't aware of the downsides of the Kondor Blue cable and the possibility of powering straight through a SmallRig battery.
And yeah, I'm sure there will be new upgraded additions to the Cineback so hopefully Caleb will flip the ports over.
I loved this! The only thing is that for my work flow, I'd need an XLR port and a way to mount an audio receiver so that whoever is working boom can sync the audio with the camera off rip
Thank you for the video man. I just recently got my first camera and bought the fx 30. I didn't know how i wanted it built and was struggling to figure out what all these parts and pieces on camera rigs did. You really simplified it and explained why each part was essential for your needs. So i used a lot of your build in mine with some minor tweaks. But you really hit every essential part of the build i was looking and matched the compact style i wanted compared to most builds for so im super excited to start filming with this new camera rig and appreciate the video!!!!
That is a super aesthetic rig ❤
Very pleased with it
I p/u my FX3 a few days ago and this video is right on time! I really hope there’ll be an XLR update to this cause it’s already 🔥 Thanks Bro 👍🏽
I figured out a solution to the audio setup! Dropping an update video on Sunday
@@kylemeshna OK Awesome! I look forward to watching it…thanks 🙏🏽
Here's the link to that new video! ua-cam.com/video/UmmUid2SY6Y/v-deo.html
@@kylemeshna Thanks!
Mannnn I can’t wait to get the cine back, great video
It’s honestly like getting a whole new camera
One thing I just got for my rig is a smallrig foldable qaudraped support stand for the bottom of it. It sits balanced and very sturdy with the 11.4lbs of camera on top of it. I would highly recommend it.
Lovley!! Great job, was pleasure and joy to watch!
At this point really every DP should probably want to own an FX3 lEven if its just their other camera alongside XY. This thing is so flexible. It does low light, it does slomo and without crop, it does 16bit raw over HDMI, it is full frame, great for any shoots that wants that larger format look. Its an incredible device.
Thank you for introducing me to the Cineback! It's made a BIG difference in our A7 and FX3 setup. I use the Hollyland monitor as well and you mention in the video buying a second one to transmit to as a director / client view of the shoot. Did you know that you can transmit to up to 4 mobile devices that have the Hollyland app installed? No need to spend on another Hollyland!
Love the rig. I am waiting for the A7IV version, but I might just buy Smallrig's compact adjustable v-mount plate that includes an arca swiss plate. Combined with a v-mount battery with USB-C and DC out that's already enough for my camera and monitor. On the camera itself, I have a cage, side handle and top handle. The only thing I'll have to figure out is cable routing.
Your solution is similar to mine, more versatile too.
smallrig 4063 B
That's a good one, but I am using the smaller Smallrig 4064. So the same thing, but without the rods or breast padding since I have the rig on a tripod most of the time.
yeh i found it around the same time as the cineback video, that is allways sold out, i owned most of those parts allready. i might 3d print my own version, that you could use the sony handle and other stuff.@@MiroSays
Awesome rig. Going with these suggestions for batum.
we love the cineback
Thanks for scratching my Cineback
Now they are working on a rig to use the xlr top handle. I definitely gonna buy.
Yeah should be ready shortly!
I figured out a solid audio solution! Just put out a new video: ua-cam.com/video/UmmUid2SY6Y/v-deo.html
One thing I don't like, and it is not that I am a finniky person, is the color of the cables. To make it more neat and less conspicuous, black cables instead of the odd light blue color cables, should've been the norm to make it look even more solid. And I know it is the fault of Condor Blue which, by the way, makes fantastic cables which I own myself.
They do have black ones as well. They just didn’t have black versions of every cable I needed, so opted for consistency with the blue
I love the design. I wonder why the D-Tap splitter is so large. It's the size of a V-Mount battery it looks like.
awesome video love seeing the cineback in use we need a Panasonic version
I like the idea of the Cineback, the only issue is if anything happens to it's D-tap splitter you have to purchase an entirely new one
for sure.. i think one with 2 dtaps and a digital fuse would be awesome
The cineback is amazing and I love it. I think it's a great platform for the fx3/30 and makes that camera feasible for the work I do. I would say that while it is fantastic it does not rival the fx6. In a cinema camera two of the biggest things I'm looking for are internal ND and easily accessible buttons for my 1st. There are workarounds but unfortunately this rig doesn't solve those two aspects. I still love the rig and use it often but the button access leaves a lot to be desired.
I think that’s a fair criticism. Internal ND would be fantastic, but at least you trade that for the ibis
I mean a matte box (even a clamp on like the tilta mirage) easily solves the internal ND issue, and now you also have variable ND with IBIS. The buttons I can understand, but I feel like once you know your way around the fx3/30 it's pretty easy to get to things quickly. But to each their own of course!
@@kylemeshna Thats so true, I love this set up with a mattebox and a vnd, especially for handheld/run and gun and a big part of that is the ibis
Your content is extremely unprofessional. Why should we listen to your opinion?
just finished watching this vid and it lead to me watch a few more especially the one with the zoom f3. call it right timing or what not I found that this video came in time when I just finished a shoot with to camera rigs that were all rail based and it was annoying how small rig offers so much but nothing in an eco system that works just right like the cine back. I feel like we will always dream to have our s3 fx3 seniors to get closer to a true cine rig and there are so many things we just need to cover to get there. anyways I love the humble approach to your videos how you lay out clear your intent and idea and why content like this is much needed I. the space. I stop watching film making content around camera stuff because it's getting out of hand. however your stuff has been a breath of fresh air.
Very much appreciate the kind words! That’s always the goal
Very slick, unfortunately we lose the top handle with the XLR audio. :$. I will hold off for the next iteration hoping to keep my XLR handle.
I figured out a better solution than the top handle! Dropping a new video tomorrow
Just put out that video with the new audio solution: ua-cam.com/video/UmmUid2SY6Y/v-deo.html
Rigid Pro have made a FX3 handle version....im still working out a few flaws in the use of the 8Sinn Cage which is pretty much awful. They said it was the best cage for the handle version but it leave so much to be desired. I should be finalizing the build to shoot a Military Action short film on Feb 3, I might try to talk about his a bit on my personal youtube channel or facebook. I like the 3D print a bit better than cineback and a nice voltage meter on the side as well.
Amazing. Can you control the menu with the external monitor?
Great .. thanks kyle . You gonna make me some more money on my FX3 lol
So basically its the rig vs software updates? How is anyone supposed to choose? Is there a work around??
This would be perfect if we could somehow detach the cage from the rig fast to put it on a gimbal if needed!
A quick release would be awesome for sure. It’s only 3 screws to remove it, but then you would need to put the ronin plate on, so not the most nimble
There's a ton that could go wrong using a dummy battery. I'd highly recommend using a PD UBC Cable to D-Tap to charge the internal battery using the USBC port on the FX3. The whole open battery door situation is a disaster waiting to happen too. If for whatever reason, your V-Mount battery fails or gets accidentally switched off, your FX3 goes with it and that's a big no-no, especially if you're recording. This one works perfectly from Amazon, "Alvin's Cables USB-C Type-C PD to D-tap Power Cable" even though it doesn't have a slick blue Kondor Blue branding lol I'd rather sacrifice a little style for a working FX3.
Yea Kondor blue makes a USBC to dtap as well!
yeah, not being able to use the XLR handle is a huge deal breaker for me
Love the setup. Would it be easier to connect the V battery to the USB C for charging instead of the dummy battery?
Yep that’ll work as well. It just gets in the way of the fx3 screen, but otherwise probably safer haha
if this box had a sdi out that would be amazing! :D
Super helpful- we used your links to purchase many of these components. How do you pair a matte box with your PolarPro mag lock?
Awesome happy to help. The mag lock doesn’t work with a matte box unfortunately. Would need to use the Polar Pro recon instead
@@kylemeshna was afraid you’d say that. Trying to avoid spending the $ and going full Polar Pro ecosystem, but we realized during a test yesterday that glare could be an issue without the box. Thanks for responding!
Look its got some things going for it but no XLR input, cant record MXF due to camera limitations. No its not better than a properly rigged FX6. And by the time you've spent that much rigging an FX3, you may has well bought an FX6.
Love my cineback!
Whens this going to be back in stock?
Wow, many thanks for great video. Can i use this setup with A7m4?
This looks sweet! I'm curious why you didn't just plug in the v-mount battery directly to the FX3 via USBC and have a Sony battery in the FX3. It seems like that would be better than what you're doing there with that dummy battery.
I plug my the amount directly into my FX30 and keep a battery in and about a cable from BH that make sure it's the right amount of power.
Yeah main reason was it was an extra switch to power the camera this way. Which is just pure laziness. I have the dtap to USBc as well and sometimes will rig it that way, but it’s hard to manage that cable with the big block on it
Can you please post a link to the micro USB to 2.5 Lanc cable you’re using on the handle? I need one and can’t find one like this.
What about the audio handle? A very necessary item.
every time i hear "best cinema camera" in a camera that doesnt have internal nd, timecode, zebras & all of those things & is just a more dynamic a7siii i lose 30 minutes off my life. :/ that being said. this build is SICK. and the cineback is GENIUS. and i hope the next instalment of the fx3 actually matches its price point bc u sony folks deserve better than what u settle for:3.
Fair criticism. I think filter systems are good enough to solve the ND issue and having IBIS instead is a good trade off that a lot of people might prefer. Almost every monitor has zebras. They also added time code to the FX3… albeit more cumbersome than it should be.
Agreed on price point. Wish there was an option without the XLR handle since that sells for $600 on its own…
How many movies have been shot using a camera with internal NDs
@@ezekial717 no easy way to no exactly, but any movies shot on the fx9, Venice, and arri Alexa, Amira or or SXT and many more since most “professional cinema cameras” from the past decade or two have a built in ND of some sort. My fx6 has one and it’s amazing to not have to carry an ND. I might have to sell it and get an fx3 which would be a huge bummer despite the fx3 still being a great camera. But once you go built in ND, hard to go back. My x100v has a built in ND and it’s such a convenient time saver, flick a button and boom ND, it’s brilliant.
@@ezekial717how many movies have been shot using an fx3? Use whatever makes you more comfortable lol
What camera do you have?
Maybe now the new firmware solved the problem with the warning text?
Everything is better than FX6, especially every other camera brand :)
Cineback is Soo expensive though. Especially if you want the xlr top handle extension
Curious as to in what scenarios you’d use this rig vs say a Gimbal to get more steady footage? Amazingly detailed video by the way, thanks for that!
Honestly I don’t use a gimbal all that often
in exactly every scenario where u dont want that specifically stable and fluid motion. people need to learn how powerfull and versatile hand held camera is...
What about adding the focus pro lidar?
Would be great yes! It wasn’t released when I built this one out though
@@kylemeshna I was thinking that if we were able to have the native hotshoe on the Sony Fx3/30, we’d be able to have the Lidar be Low and close to the sensor while letting the monitor and top handle be hooked to the Cineback for the same stability prior. Hopefully he’s been working on having the Focus Pro Lidar factored into a modded design!!
Damn that rig is nice man it’s different form the one I have well the way it’s built do you have a IG page ?
I will make a purchase soon on the FX3. Wanted to ask what do you think if I pair it with a ZEISS CP.3 50mm T2.1 Compact Prime Lens (Sony E Mount, Feet) . BTW great vid. Thank yh for the information of the cage, which I will also purchase
Thank you for the video.
No auto ND’s. Once you pan and tilt you’ll have issues. Get good and scrolling aperture or twisting screw on nds
Being an F55 user I would not rig this into a “Cinema cam” it would make a good B cam for tight shots though.
What's the cost of it all fully rigged out and with the lens and body?
A hybrid camera with extra add ons to make it bigger does not change the original camera
Hello. Can you please let me know which cable do you use for the Kondor Blue top handle to Sony FX 3. Many thanks.
Imo the small rig the v mount battery plate that is adjustable is more versatile
I do like that one (it’s linked in the description), but it still leaves you with a huge mess of cables and mounting is way limited
@@kylemeshna you could add a cheese plate in front of the v mount for additional top mounting, also mondo ties by kondor blue, if you need to flip or close screen with this one it’s more time consuming to break down
@felipeandjess there’s a slot for the screen with this so it’s all sorted
unfortunately the wooden side handle is discontinued! does any side handle work or do you happen to have some other alternatives in mind?
Would you suggest d tap to usb c?
I need the tool that you were using to screw in the components lol
Damn i just bought the small rig baseplate and v mount attachments 😧
Great informative video. Cineback is great to use if you don't use LWS standards. I'd prefer usb-c power via vb99 than a record button. Also you can keep recording if vb99 is out of juice.
I got the cineback and did usb c to d tap. I like having the interal battery in there so like you said if the v mount loses power or even if I accidentally hit that power switch my camera will stay on.
how would you go about adding an XLR mic?
Do you mind sharing the wrench that you used as well? lol
Hello. Unfortunately, the Cineback is sold out, is there an alternative?
What does it end up weighing?
Really cool, Kyle! I was wondering: can you use a USB cable from the FX3 directly to the V Mount Battery so that you don't have to use a dummy battery?
Yes you can. Either USBc to USBc or DTap to USBc will work. You just have to turn on both the Cineback and the camera separately, since turning off the cineback will only disable to charging to the in-camera battery. Minor convenience though and certainly much safer for the camera
Thank you so much, this helps a lot
checked the cost and for all the rig without a lens its about $5000 aud
anyone tally how much overall it would be for the full rig? besides the camera? wandering how i can finance this haha
so i added everything up and the total for me based on living in GA(you know shipping costs vary) is 1,188.00. so if you round up itll basically cost you about 1,200.
9:11 Dummy camera battery no go. Always prefer type-c for safety and redundancy.
Hey Kyle great information here. I’m making the (costly) investment in the FX3 with lenses and using your links as a template for fitting it out. Question for you. I’ll be using this for some travel video, so I’ll be moving around and filming quite a bit. Is there a bag you recommend that will fit this build out for the most part without having to deconstruct it every time?
i have a question, i have a different monitor wanna use but does the monitor mount work on the shimbol memory which is the one im getting? or do i need to get a different monitor mount for it? thank you
The timing of seeing this video 😂
The algorithm overlords know all
Looks like a potentially neat solution. But.... I'm not a fan of having the power delivered only via a dummy battery as there is a risk of file corruption if unpowered accidently or you need to swap out a V-mount cell. Also to overcome the 'Sony battery nag' I personally favour using an OEM Sony battery with additional power being topped up from a V-mount via the USB-C port. I also have difficulty ignoring the risk (possibly overstated) of 'bricking' a Sony body by using a dummy battery if/when things go wrong on voltage delivery and the dummy cell gets 'overvolted' possibly as a result of the voltage conversion circuit (between V-mount and FX3) developing a fault.
On audio it does seem a pity to bypass one of the main benefits of having an FX3 (HQ audio via powered XLR into a digital interface). OK not really a problem with one of several workarounds eg using a time code cable on FX3 with something like several Deity TC-1 units synced together and a separate TC jammed field recorder. Or more simply just having something plugged into the 3.5mm audio jack.
One advantage of an FX3 vs FX6 (there are many downsides like no inbuilt ND) is the ability to work in a more minimalist fashion - small, light, quick, inconspicuously and/or gimbal friendly. For that, there is merit in being able to quickly reconfigure the rig into say just a basic body with small prime lens. The inbuilt battery is needed for this - another reason I would shun the dummy battery suggestion.
Notwithstanding my slight reservations there is much to like and it's good to have options. I feel a 'cineback' solution will really come into it's own if a way can be found to still utilise the Sony XLR audio handle. SmallRig already have a few parts to enhance this handle (extension to rear for better ergo and plate for top (better protection of plastic parts and option to add other components).
Just put out a new video on a workaround for audio instead of the XLR handle. And yeah you can use the DTap to USBc cable instead of a dummy battery if you’re worried about the dummy battery issue
How would you connect the external shotgun microphone on the rig?
Putting out a follow up video on this tomorrow
Here's the new audio solution for a shotgun mic! ua-cam.com/video/UmmUid2SY6Y/v-deo.html
I created a somewhat similar rig with the SmallRig V Mount battery plate and a rotating Tilta top handle- all on a Tilta cage... I use the USB-C connection to power my FX30 - so no dummy battery needed for me. Does this Cineback work with the Title cage - if so I might give it a try - just not worth having to purchase an entire new cage system at this time for me??
Yeah it does. In Calebs original video when he is releasing the cine back, he specifically states you must get the small tilta cage in order for it to fit into the cineback
I Just bought a FX3 and I thought I was sold on the M1 enhanced but I'm so torn between the M1 and the LH7P / 5P ii for the Sony integration. Was it just the confusing interface on the portkeys that made you choose the M1? This is the last piece I need to finish up my build, any insight on the core reasons you chose this is appreciated!
UI was definitely a huge consideration. The LH7P was also a bit large for my liking and I really liked the Sony integration, but then it got disconnected somehow and I haven't been able to get it re-configured to connect again
@@kylemeshna that would be almost the entire reason I got the port keys and if it’s unreliable it defeats the purpose. I’ll go with my gut and stay with the m1. Thanks for the help!
Hey man, I think that if you were to add music it would help your viewership and help the viewer feel more comfortable.
And then when I add music someone in the comments gets salty about the music choice 🫠
Hahah you can’t please everyone! I think the people wanting music far outweigh the ones who don’t.
Maybe split the difference, like music but it’s very chill and very low?
All good either way lol
Do you have a variation of this rig that fits on a gimbal?
If you’re on a gimbal, I don’t think you are gonna want to have many of these things on the camera. I’d strip down the camera to only the FX3 and then rig your monitor to the gimbal itself
whats the build cost?
Perfect camera❤💫👍👍👍awesome
Will this work for a7siii with cage?
Unfortunately it will not. Check out this battery plate though. It’s the best option I’ve found for the a7siii amzn.to/3wOZpul
can this build be achieved the same way while using the Sony XLR handle the fx30 is bundled with?
There is now a separate option for that on the Cineback yes
@@kylemeshna thanks so much great content. Didn't even realize you would comment on that at the end of the video while i was watching and commented 😅
@@kylemeshna also if I am looking to cut some cost on this build, losing the cineback for the small rig v mount. Is the only drawback that you cant cut the power via a switch? will everything else work without the cineback?
what are some alternatives for powering the camera if you are already on the latest firmware? Also what do you use to charge the vmount battery?
The v Mount charges via USBC. And Kondor blue has a dtap to USBC cable that you can use as well that won’t cause the warning.
What cables do you use?
They’re linked in the description 😊
I would change the orientation of your dtaps. that hard bend probably won't be good for your cables long term
They can’t really go any other way due to the orientation of the ports
You can unscrew them and flip their orientation.
Quick qeustion... have you successfully done this with your rig? I haven't yet take it apart to see if this is even possible.
@@kylemeshna You can order custom DTap cables from Alvin's cables for fairly cheap. I had them flip the orientation of my DTap so that the cable comes out of the Positive side rather than the Negative side of the connector. I think I paid $19 per cable, and you can customize the length, specify coiled vs non-coiled, etc. It's a huge convenience and I'd highly recommend checking it out.
Yes, I have. I will let you know that the kondor blue are a little tighter than other brands.
Hey Kyle... Does the monitor still allow the touch auto focus to work ? From the monitor screen itself?
Touch focus needs to be done on the fx3’s screen. But the Portkeys I linked in the description does have a wireless control function that allows you to do touch focus on the monitor directly
I have a Ninja V, How I Power this monitor?
Dummy NPF battery. Pretty sure it comes with it
Where did you get the connector for the recording button that goes on your Sony camera? BH only has a canon connector? Is it worth it ?
Direct from Kondor Blue they have the Sony one. I do quite like having it
Thanks!! By any chance did your wooden handle get in the way of the right angle HDMI port ? Did you have any issues or concerns about it ?
@@Isaucruz nope, it does not get in the way, especially if you use the Right Angle HDMI cable
Is there an external hard drive that you recommend? Or are SD cards the only way? New to all this. When I've searched on youtube for recommendations I can't find a good video
I always record to SD cards. Plenty of good fast cheap ones. I use Lexar and Kingston
The real question is- what is that awesome tool?!
EDC Multitool! It's honestly amazing! Here's the link: geni.us/edc-tool
I've get 6, and 3. FX6 Absolutely Better than FX3 for all.
Does it have auto nd?
So how is it better than the FX6?
The point of the FX3 is it's portability and size. Rigging it like this is like buying a mini cooper and then rigging it out to be a pickup truck.
Ridiculous and waste of money.
Didn't you say without tools?, first I see is screwing :) But great video, thanks!
Once you screw everything in, you don't need tools to break it down into each of it's core components, since it's all connected with Nato Rails
Its super frustraiting about the Cineback not being available, even if they made a way to 3D print it for a fee.. I've been waiting for months
It’s been available multiple times over the last few months. Are you not on the email list?
@@kylemeshna I am, I didn’t see an email unless it went to my spam folder, it’s all good it’s not your fault I know it’s Caleb’s thing
✌...
No HDMI lock makes me hella nervous.
All I see now is shooters rigging out their FX30/3 to basically function like an FX6/FS5/FS7, BUT all the cash you spent on all the stuff to rig it out you could've had an FS5/FX6. Not to mention you can spend $10,000 on rigging out your FX30 and still NEVER have true built-in VND, XLR proper audio or the button layout that we all crave for on the FX6/FS5/C300/C200/UrsaMini/EVO etc...
Maybe someone can explain to me why you'd build out an FX3 at the price of over what an FX6 costs.
FX3 $3,898.00
Monitor $300
Cage $75
Side Handle $80
Cineback $330
Vmount Batt $200
Top Handle $100
Addition costs (cables, dummy Batt, rails, mounts, etc) $150
Total: $5,133
FX6 $4,800-$5900 (used market)
Adorama, eBay, KEH etc
No additional costs after you purchase the FX6 (other than media and lenses) it comes with literally everything listed in the above FX3 build. Except it's all Sony proprietary so it's meant to function together out of the box.
It comes with a battery, it comes with a top handle, it comes with a side handle, no need for a cage, no need for cable management, no need for a monitor, no need for VND, no need to wonder where your proper audio is coming from. The above FX3 kit btw is even actually more than $5133 because you have to factor in your audio solution and your VND. Just those two alone will cost you at minimum $350. You can use 3.5mm into the FX3 but once again that's not production quality audio.
You can then say I'll just get an FX30 and bump the cost down to $3500, but then at that cost you could have x2 FS5 Mii or x2 Canon C300 Mii or x2 Mini Ursas or x2 C200s or x3 FS7s even ($900/ea), which btw records 10bit422 internally. You can get three FS7s for $2800 on Adorama. Multiple camera angles holds WAY more value than the tiny image quality bump.
I'm pretty confident that in a blind test you couldn't tell the difference between the FS5 and the FX30. In some ways I feel like the FS5 looks better lol. Even the F55 or an F3 looks better than an FX30, imo, and you can pick up an older Cine Alta for dirt cheap now, with all the bells and whistles.
If you can't produce a beautiful visual story using an FS7, you won't magically be able to do it with an FX3.