I soak the heads one side at a time so I dont make the handle swell by soaking the entire head all at once. No need to get the handle wet at all. If yours doesnt have the clear coat sprayed on the outside it will absorb water much faster and the coil of hide will want to unravel so I added zip ties to each end and dont remove until dry. A meat tenderizer striking the surface breaks down the hide and no rocks or dirt. Thanks Dave for your attention to detail.
Thanks for sharing. I now have several Thorex hammers with interchangeable nylon heads. So I'm rapidly becoming a convert to nylon. I need to make a Thorex video I guess . Dave
That's great info when I started I never new you had to condition them caused me a few problems, after soaking if you have access to a needle scaler it does a great job
+pijnto ... ah yes, as used by car mechanics. I can see that would be a great tool for the job (for those who have access to one). Thanks for sharing. Dave.
Everyone has their own methods, But the point of my video is to make people realise that they do need to do "something" to make the hammers useable. Thanks for watching. Dave
I use a metal meat tenderizing mallet.... because rocks, bricks and stone become crushed and stuck in the mallet... thats noon good. Rough sandpaper gets stuck in it to. I break holes with a screwdriver, soak and beat with a meat tendering mallet. It flares out PERFECTLY. Cheers
Just what I needed. Thanks so much for sharing. I just ordered my first rawhide mallet and this will be incredibly useful. Any tips on looking after your files so they don't trust?
I live near the sea in the damp north of England, so everything rusts instantly. When you buy electronics items you may see little packets of silica gel in the packaging. I keep these and use them in plastic tubs with my tools. Alternatively you buy them cheaply from ebay and amazon. I have some very large bags which are sold for cars, to avoid condensation in your windscreen. These are just great for popping in the tool drawers. Always keep your tools dry (obviously) especially when quenching or pickling items, make sure they are dry before filing and sawing. Ensure all tools are clean and dry at the end of the day. If your workshop is damp, you should also consider a dehumidifier or small air con unit. Dave
Let it dry, it will toughen up a little. But that's good, you want it soft, . it should be perfect when dry. But If you really think its gone too far, then you can coat it with a water based wood varnish to harden it again. Dave
To be honest, mine was still quite hard after all this too. I guess there is no substitute for simply using it and wearing it down. For me , I dont use the mallets much so in 20 years it is still going to look like new and be hard as steel. So personally I use, rubber mallets and nylon ones. Check out the Thor Hammer Company. They are a UK manufacturer of mallets with interchangeable heads, you can get plastic, brass, rubber and a variety different firmness heads. No preparation needed, just screw in your head and go, when it gets bashed up you simply screw in another one for perfect consistency every time. So in my opinion the rawhide mallet has moved on nowadays and been replaced (for me anyway) by the Thorex mallets. Check 'em out on the link. Dave www.thorhammer.com/
That's the point - as it flares out and softens, it becomes better. It still has the weight, but is more gentle on the rings. If you feel it needs it, you can use a jubilee clip to keep the head together. Dave.
I soak the heads one side at a time so I dont make the handle swell by soaking the entire head all at once. No need to get the handle wet at all. If yours doesnt have the clear coat sprayed on the outside it will absorb water much faster and the coil of hide will want to unravel so I added zip ties to each end and dont remove until dry. A meat tenderizer striking the surface breaks down the hide and no rocks or dirt. Thanks Dave for your attention to detail.
Thanks for the tips. Dave
Found my dads from when he worked at Firestone years ago, this has definitely helped restore the ends to original. Thank you
Glad I could help! Dave
Very useful video! I had just bought a small rawhide mallet, and wondered how I'll soften it up--I'll give this a try, thanks!
Update: I just conditioned my rawhide mallet with soaking, and it worked well. Took 40 min for a size 1.
Thanks for sharing. I now have several Thorex hammers with interchangeable nylon heads. So I'm rapidly becoming a convert to nylon. I need to make a Thorex video I guess . Dave
Great video... Short and to the point but also very well explained!
Much appreciated! Dave
That's great info when I started I never new you had to condition them caused me a few problems, after soaking if you have access to a needle scaler it does a great job
+pijnto ... ah yes, as used by car mechanics. I can see that would be a great tool for the job (for those who have access to one). Thanks for sharing. Dave.
Perfect thank you. Just got my first one so I will give it a go! I wasnt sure how to break it in, so thanks again!
Everyone has their own methods, But the point of my video is to make people realise that they do need to do "something" to make the hammers useable. Thanks for watching. Dave
Followed your instructions and BOOM. like a lucky charm it worked.
I use a metal meat tenderizing mallet.... because rocks, bricks and stone become crushed and stuck in the mallet... thats noon good. Rough sandpaper gets stuck in it to. I break holes with a screwdriver, soak and beat with a meat tendering mallet. It flares out PERFECTLY. Cheers
Yes indeed a very good point. You don't want anything sticking in the leather. A meat tenderiser is a great tip ! Thanks. Dave
Exactly what I was looking for. Thanks!
Glad I could help! Dave
Thanks for the clear exposition :)
My pleasure! Dave
Good tip Dave, by the way, if that is rust happening on your Snapon tool chest, it should be under replacement warranty.
+jim bettridge ..Thanks Jim. Bought the two cabinets from a car boot for £20 each - Bargain ! for that price I don't mind a few rust spots. ; )
That is a deal Dave, my "side" cabinet, which is not big at all was roughly 1300.00 CDN. Not cheap stuff!
Another great informative video.
Thanks. Dave
AWESOME!!! thank you!
Thanks for watching. Dave
Just what I needed. Thanks so much for sharing. I just ordered my first rawhide mallet and this will be incredibly useful. Any tips on looking after your files so they don't trust?
I live near the sea in the damp north of England, so everything rusts instantly. When you buy electronics items you may see little packets of silica gel in the packaging. I keep these and use them in plastic tubs with my tools. Alternatively you buy them cheaply from ebay and amazon. I have some very large bags which are sold for cars, to avoid condensation in your windscreen. These are just great for popping in the tool drawers. Always keep your tools dry (obviously) especially when quenching or pickling items, make sure they are dry before filing and sawing. Ensure all tools are clean and dry at the end of the day. If your workshop is damp, you should also consider a dehumidifier or small air con unit. Dave
Silica gel packets! I use these they work well!
I accidentally left my mallet in water overnight. it was VERY soft afterwards. Any suggestions on how to proceed?
Let it dry, it will toughen up a little. But that's good, you want it soft, . it should be perfect when dry. But If you really think its gone too far, then you can coat it with a water based wood varnish to harden it again. Dave
I see ones advertised as soft leather, untreated with shellac. Is there a benefit to using these instead of the ones that are shellac impregnated?
Interesting I haven't seen those, but I guess they don't need to be softened up. I Don't really see the point of the shellac varnish anyway. Dave.
As a woodworker I assume the shellac is for long term protection and maybe a little extra weight. But ebay has some that are advertised as non-coated.
I guess it depends what you want to use it for. a coated mallet can be very hard for a jeweller, but perhaps longer lasting for tougher jobs. Dave.
Why not try paint stripper then water rinse?
Never tried that, might work. Dave
So, Dave... I did this, yet when it dried, it's all hard again. Any tips?? Btw, don't let your dogs near these... they think they're a raw hide chew!
To be honest, mine was still quite hard after all this too. I guess there is no substitute for simply using it and wearing it down. For me , I dont use the mallets much so in 20 years it is still going to look like new and be hard as steel. So personally I use, rubber mallets and nylon ones. Check out the Thor Hammer Company. They are a UK manufacturer of mallets with interchangeable heads, you can get plastic, brass, rubber and a variety different firmness heads. No preparation needed, just screw in your head and go, when it gets bashed up you simply screw in another one for perfect consistency every time. So in my opinion the rawhide mallet has moved on nowadays and been replaced (for me anyway) by the Thorex mallets. Check 'em out on the link. Dave www.thorhammer.com/
I see...well someone gave me the Fretz interchangeable. But I like the weight of my raw hide. I'll check out the Thor. Thanks!
How do you fix one where there face is unraveling?
That's the point - as it flares out and softens, it becomes better. It still has the weight, but is more gentle on the rings. If you feel it needs it, you can use a jubilee clip to keep the head together. Dave.
This made some of the layers separate... especially the top layer..
it is important that you only soften the faces, for this reason. Dave