Add Roll Bars to the WLToys 104001
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- Опубліковано 30 вер 2024
- Add roll bars to the WLToys 104001 1/10 scale 4wd buggy. Below you'll find links to the parts necessary to add roll bars or sway bars as they are also called.
The LC Racing Roll Bar Kit
www.rcmart.com...
Team Associated T6.1/SC6.1 Anti-Roll Bar Hardware Set
www.amainhobbi...
Team Associated B6.1/B6.1D Ball Ends
www.amainhobbi...
**** IMPORTANT LIPO SAFETY VIDEO! ****
Lithium Polymer Batteries, How to use them safely and avoid explosions and fires!
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I thought about getting my mom the purple 1/12 wltoys I bought my neighbor a losi mini b and he does even use it do you know if the aluminum sevro mout will work on a exceed Rc buggy 1/10 get you a brushed esc that can take a 3s lipo it’s awesome brushed esc
The SN-RC 129106 sway bar set costs less than $10, comes with all the links and ball joints etc and 6 sway bars and is basically a direct fit, requiring only a slight tweak of the angle of the bars, and about 10mm cutting off the ends of the longer 'rear' set of bars.
I got the sway bar ends but no spindles. That car is based or copied off of the xray 8 2018
GREAT NEWS guys! The team associated B64 front CVA set (the full set) fits PERFECTLY in the 104001 with no shimming or changes. Its a direct drop in and theyre much nicer than stock. You can also get some of the lock on team associated aluminum hex wheel thingies if you want to not worry about the pins.
So if you broke your front cva like I did just go online and buy yourselves the b64 front kit and you'll be set. :) i bet other b64 parts fit too.... might try some more later. Remember, you need the whole set, just the dogbones won't do it because their balls are a touch thicker, but the associated kit 92056 is complete and works.
Thank you very much for posting this information!
Do you have the parts bag name and number that is not in the video?
Hi, I'm not sure which one you're referring to... in the "description", the LC Racing Roll Bars are the same for front and rear. There are a set of eyelets that came in my kit... they fit the ball studs molded into the a-arms... hopefully your kit came with those too. Can you point me to a time stamp in the video where I mention the part you're asking about. I'll do what I can to help. BTW, from your "name", I'm guessing you were/are a US Marine... If so, Thank you for your service!
2:20 sway bar Hardware kit
@@swmarine9745 Sure, they are in the description below the video. If you're not familiar, scroll below the video to where you see "My RC Channel" and below that, click "SHOW MORE" to expand the descriptions full text.
You're looking for these...
Team Associated T6.1/SC6.1 Anti-Roll Bar Hardware Set
www.amainhobbies.com/team-associated-t6.1-sc6.1-antiroll-bar-hardware-set-asc71134/p-qtalt2tqnm2xactz
Team Associated B6.1/B6.1D Ball Ends
www.amainhobbies.com/team-associated-b6.1-b6.1d-ball-ends-asc91820/p-qtawqqwalbzxactz
You'll want to order one of each of these and two of the roll bar sets. You can get by with one set of roll bars, but if you find that you want the same size bar front and rear, you'll need that second set... besides, they are so inexpensive that you might as well get two.
Let me know if I can help with anything else!
Regards,
CJ
Is there not a replacement shaft that could be found that is slightly longer? Super informative as always!
I looked... I was able to figure out the length, but the end with the CV is not a standard size... it's smaller than TLR or Associated axle CVs. You know, I should check it against the axles off some of the other WLToys cars... I'll check that in the AM. My wife is telling me to unplug and get some sleep. I'll let you know!
hello sir .. where can I get a blue battery mount like that .. Can I share the link
Hi, In this video, you'll see the 3D parts I designed. Links to the files are in the description below the video. They are on Thingiverse and are free to download and print for personal use. You may share these links, but please do not print the parts for sale to others.
If you do not own or have access to a 3D printer, I will print the parts for you for a reasonable fee plus the shipping. You can choose from the following colors: red, blue, white, and black.
If you wish to purchase any of the parts, email me at cjs_tri05@yahoo.com with your first and last name, shipping address, email address, the parts you want and the color(s). I will send you an invoice through PayPal so you will have purchase protection.
Regards,
CJ Scott
Check rear dog bones add fuel tubing on diff side so dog bones don't slide out and bend.
When I rebuilt my shocks, I added 3mm spacers below the piston in the rear shocks and 2mm up front... this lowers the ride height slightly and prevents the dogbones from getting chewed up. The dogbone issue isn't why I added the spacers, but it's a bonus. I did that to lower the buggy and to reduce stiction... when the piston is at bottom, it can lean hard against the side of the shock body and is hard to get into motion. The spacers alleviate that issue. To bad they didn't give us droop screws like they did on the 124019. I still would have added some spacers to the shocks, but the adjustment you get from droop screws is more granular and precise.
Gran bella modifica...bel video utile... ciao dall'Italia
Thank you very much!
Even LC Racing doesn’t include the sway bars unless you find a “pro” kit. Too much money in selling accessories/parts to be “giving” stuff away. I can’t wait to see how this car handles compared to stock, interesting project for sure.
Most kits come with items like sway bars stock... if you want different weights/thicknesses, you have to buy those separately, but providing the mounts, the links, even the grub screws for tensioning the sway bar, but not providing the sway bar itself seems like more of an oversight than a sales tactic. Also, why not include those items in an upgrade kit with a variety of sway bars at the same time the car becomes available. I bought my bars from RCMart made by LC... and am recommending the same to my viewers... how does that make WLToys any money? I don't think they are very organized.
@@MyRCChannel-CJScott I hear you. I know the nicer kits come with everything and sometimes even fluids. I think the lower price point kits leave them out for profit margins. None of the LC kits I bought came with the sway bars except for the LC12B. I’m not complaining, just something I noticed.
@@i4nic256 You may be correct... I wouldn't be surprised if some manufacturers do that, but it can backfire. If the part needed is not available, and lots of people want it but can't find it, they may not purchase your kits in the future... and they may tell two friends, and they tell two friends, and so on, and so on... until the Co's rep is in the dumps.
There are also regional factors. From my viewers, I get the impression that LC kits and parts are easily accessible from their local hobby stores in Germany... in the USA, you'll likely not find LC parts on any shelf. It can be true for some of the larger companies also. Xray kits and parts can be harder to source here in the US. The vendors cary the kits and parts, but they are frequently on backorder. I just bought two of Xray's kits and a bunch of parts... both kits and most of the parts were unavailable here, and I had to source them through EuroRC... nice vendor by the way.
Then there is the virus factor impacting the supply chains of the world. I don't know if you've noticed, but shipping anything out of China has gotten much more expensive.
Ya know, the car comes with 8 of the ends and grub screws. Dunno why, the instructions show them connected on one end and connected to air on the other. Been trying to figure out how they work for days, all I can figure is its for an unreleased option.
Would you mind listing the part number for that center diff? My local shop has plenty of center driveshafts for me to find a setup that'll work, but id like a diff that'll fit without me shredding the holding posts.
Oh, and the ball diff, associated dogbones and cuffs fit (barely) so you might try an associated driveline kit for like...a b64. Im running all associated wheel hubs and dogbones in the front since I broke a drive on the front right and it'll be a month till proper replacements arrive. Its a CLOSE fit but the dogbones just barely stay in the cups of the front diff, used b64 front cva axle, b74 cva bone 74mm, cva rebuild kit, and factory team clamping wheel hexes 5mm all from team associated, for anyone who needs to do this conversion to use local parts. You'll reuse the original little black plastic cone rings that hold the pins in on the hubs, they fit the associated wheel hubs.. You'll also need a 1mm thick washer to shim it on either side. All that, but it works. If you can find a 78mm-80mm shaft itll work without shimming.
I got the diff I tested from LC Racing... it's for their 4wd 1/10 buggy
@@MyRCChannel-CJScott much appreciated, ill get one ordered as soon as I've got the money and ill try to remember to come back and let you know the parts that fit. My local shop is nice about helping me find things that'll work.
OH and it turns out I was using a mixture of b64 and b4 parts, with pure associated b64 front end online you wouldn't need to shim the driveshafts (associated B64 Front CVA Driveshaft Set, 76mm is what i just bought) i think a lot of the b64 parts will fit this buggy and are often locally available.
hello you have a link for the 3 D battery support thank you
No link, but send me an email and I'll reply with the files attached. cjs_tri05@yahoo.com
In return, please share the link to my channel with your RC friends.
@@MyRCChannel-CJScott OK
@@MyRCChannel-CJScott I received the file, thank you
Do I spy with my little eye a LC racing center diff? Good informative video! 👍👍
Correct sir... That's where the diff came from. To bad too, it's a nice diff with lightened outdrives.
@@MyRCChannel-CJScott The diff didn't fit your car?
@@dwbv00 It fits, as in the bearings fit between the mounts. But the outdrives don't stick out far enough to meet the driveshafts.
@@MyRCChannel-CJScott oh...that's a bummer. I assumed you checked to see if the LC Racing stuff will fit?
@@dwbv00 I caught a bug and have been in bed all day... one of the axles MIGHT work for the rear, but not the front. I think the best thing is to wait until a proper replacement comes out.
I'm looking for softer shock springs and two hole pistons, I think stock springs are too stiff. Wich springs are you using in this video? LC10B5? Thanks! Good video :)
I'm sick in bed... I'll get back to you tomorrow...
@@MyRCChannel-CJScott I Hope you get better soon
@@juanfranciscomorcillo4565 Thanks, I'm feeling a lot better today.
Here is my shock setup...
Front Shocks:
TLR Sky Blue Front LF Spring(Low Frequency) 4.23
TLR 37.5 fluid
2mm spacer below the piston inside the shock body
Rear Shocks:
TLR Pink Rear LF Spring(Low Frequency) 2.3
TLR 32.5 fluid
3mm spacer below the piston inside the shock body
The spacers on the shock shaft inside the shock body limit ride height... remember there are no droop screws so max suspension travel is controlled by adding or removing spacers from the shock. Also, having a bit of space to keep the piston off the bottom of the shock body reduces stiction.
When I rebuilt the diffs, I used 20,000 fluid in the front, and 12,500 in the rear. This is my initial setup... I lowered the preload adjuster about 4mm-5mm in front and maybe 2mm in the rear.
I hope this helps,
CJ
@@MyRCChannel-CJScott WoW!! Thanks so much. Very detailed setup :)
I was thinking to use 7000cst in front diff and 5000cst in rear diff for first run, local track has a low traction dirt surface and thicker fuild could be a little aggresive in this condition.
But I won't be able test this until next week. Weather is becaming rainy here.
Thanks!
@@juanfranciscomorcillo4565 Hey, 7K & 5K isn't a bad place to start... you can always change it out later. On low traction surfaces, the power goes to the wheel(s) with the least traction... the thicker the fluid, the more that effect is diminished and the diff acts more like a locker. So for your track, going thicker might be better.
BUT!!! And this is one of those big buts, the thicker the fluid, the more all wheels will grip and give good power delivery and thus better acceleration, BUT, the che buggy wont turn as easily because the diff action, one wheel turning more than the other is resisted by the more viscous fluid. It's a trade off and this is why tuning is so important. Going to the track on an off(non-race) day and trying different setups and learning how they affect handling and most importantly, laptimes. First, you need to become familiar enough with your buggy to be able to do multiple consistent laps... not necessarily fast laps, but reasonable fast laps where you don't crash and each lap looks much like the last. Then you can make changes and learn from those changes. If you're crashing, it's impossible to analyse the car's performance. Also, it helps to record your laps with a video camera like a gopro or even a cell phone. That way you can focus on driving and after you're done, watch the video and look to see how the car behaves.
Hi. I would like to purchase the chassis brace you created. How do I go about doing that? Thanks
For a variety of reasons, not the least of which is how much work it is to make these versus what I was asking, I've decided to stop selling the braces. I highly recommend that you follow this link and pre-order the 5mm chassis kit. You will not have any problems with flex, the kit will lighten and strengthen the kit, and you won't need any braces. Sorry to disappoint, but this is a much better solution.
shop.makerfire.com/products/carbon-fiber-upgrade-wltoys-104001?_pos=1&_sid=7636bf7bf&_ss=r
@@MyRCChannel-CJScott I already ordered the 2mil carbon kit before the 5mil kit came out. That's why I need the braces.
@@apexelite2968 I understand, but one person I sold one to broke it almost immediately. I don't know if he glued the front shim as I directed, or if he didn't drill the front holes to the size I recommended, or if the design isn't strong enough in general... so I'm reluctant to sell more of them. Are you in the US, or somewhere else on the globe?
@@MyRCChannel-CJScott I'm in the U.S. I don't plan on jumping the car. I got a truggy for that. I just plan on running it on pavement with street tires.
@@apexelite2968 Ok, if you really want one, and accept the risk, I'll make one for you. Send me an email at cjs_tri05@yahoo.com provide your shipping address, and let me know what color you want (black, white, blue, or red). I'll send you an invoice through PayPal.