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Check out the playlist for the build of the TLR 22T 4.0 the shocks are covered in parts 12 and 13. ua-cam.com/video/4rjyjLhddOI/v-deo.html Another interesting shock build where I upgraded to the Fox Kashima coated shock bodies: Building a Team Associated RC10 B74.1D Team Kit ua-cam.com/video/UXjEbviza2Q/v-deo.html There are many other builds where I cover building shocks at various levels of detail. I try to include all the tricks and tips I can. If you want more, check out the builds of the Team Associated RC10SC6.2 Team Kit, the TLR 22DC 5.0 Elite 1/10 2wd RC Buggy, and the Kyosho Inferno MP10e 1/8 Scale 4wd RC Buggy. Go to the channel home page and click the "Playlist" tab link, there you'll see all the builds I've done listed chronologically. By the way, if you decide to drill your shock caps, here are 4 shock cap screws with o-ring seals for under $5. www.amainhobbies.com/yokomo-x-shock-v2-shock-cap-drain-screw-4-yokb2-s812ada/p417632 Thanks for watching, CJ

It's true, but all those issues can be addressed for relatively little money and time Actually, the gearbox performs reasonably well. I haven't had any issues with it. And, I am really enjoying racing with the vintage crowd. I ended up replacing the ballcups with Traxxas types that are very rugged and are almost impossible to knock off... like something that would go on a crawler. Once I got the turnbuckle issues solved, all my problems were related to tires, tuning, and electronics. Otherwise, the truck was great. I just didn't have enough time to work the problems b efore the race. But, I'm really looking forward to the next vintage race within driving distance because I'm going! If you can afford to buy a vintage truck or buggy, I highly recommend getting involved in the community! It's a great group of people. I broke a stub axle and one of the guys went into his parts box and pulled out an original steel front axle. He refused to accept any payment. Thanks for watching, CJ

@@MyRCChannel-CJScott You are right in that the RC community is a community incredibly supportive of each other - I found that out after reentering the hobby about 4-5 years ago. I may reconsider the Halsey replica. Looking forward to the next videos!

@@madvente There are a lot of cars that qualify as vintage. There’s a nice belt driven mid-motor awd buggy. There are several 2wd buggies other than the RC10. I’ll try to find the link with the list of qualified vehicles from the last national race and post it here for you sometime tomorrow. The main thing the rules dictate is motor turns.

Suer thing... I get them on Amazon. Last time I bought a 6-pack here's a real deal on 10 for $20! It's the exact same tool, just a different color. If you look, you can find them in different colors and in different quantities. This was at the top of my search so I sent it to you. You can put one in each tool box, save a couple for when they get dull, etc.! www.amazon.com/Cutters-KAIHAOWIN-Clippers-Diagonal-Electronic/dp/B09V7YC6RH/ref=sr_1_2_sspa?crid=A0LR2ELSQ0ZS&dib=eyJ2IjoiMSJ9.Glj1fZprabsUbk1N25B07wXStV-5pC3jis9NbDtvbnuB0x5aYz277qQTqvgU5R_oGjAZdJ_8cfCgq2VSZ5sGBjoaKhWyHjnwweZbvSdOr9E97AC4TuQuNRT7EiL-wznCKQ2C6g7ufqsN66lRDl70rwRLlKqNOIzXex5GTDBYCte2J_nYV3hsYBb5hHz4-C0MhghdFajj-_KcgZP3PYhueboB2saKkeRNyipTQ4Lq1qCzV3zBAJdzvEGaineq0lyZMwmgpuhbzVQAeun1iVSGuXu-Ud4M4jQIzk6odNotQPo.32aGhr4hJmcZ1sn6AET4DwSDrNn0WF36-13qycaewcA&dib_tag=se&keywords=tools%2Bcutters&qid=1727759876&sprefix=tools%2Bcutters%2Caps%2C118&sr=8-2-spons&sp_csd=d2lkZ2V0TmFtZT1zcF9hdGY&th=1 Thanks for watching, CJ

They used different components as price and availability dictated. I wouldn't want to steer you in the wrong direction. My advice is to take it or at least one of your pads to a bike shop and they can help you find replacement pads. Best of luck! CJ

@@geordienufc3132 Oh, you think these are small? Wait till I put up the videos on the GLRacing 1/28th scale pan car. That’s crazy small! But really well engineered. N

Thanks! I'm getting up to speed! I recently built a couple vintage cars and went to a National Vintage Race! Builds and track footage coming... Lots more in the works.

The servos I used in the video are some cheep plastic servos I got from HobbyKing. I've been using KTS servos on my more recent builds... they are more expensive, but they are more reliable and more precise. If you look at the recommendations on the Fresh 2m page (here www.hyperflight.co.uk/products.asp?code=FRESH&name=fresh-f3-res ) the plastic BlueBird servos are quite good without costing to much. I use the pull string and torsion spring on some kits. Just make sure to unhook it after every flight so the torsion spring doesn't wear out/weaken prematurely. It's still not my favorite way to go.. but it works for a lot of people. Best of luck! CJ

Yes, it flies very well. I'm building a second with a power pod. The original is still in great shape.

@MyRCChannel-CJScott nice. Thanks for the building videos.

@@pertttikeinonen261 it is a solid buggy. And yes, if you don’t beat it to death , it will last. It’s got a solid chassis and the suspension is designed to take a lot of punishment. BUT, the design and production leave much to the imagination be desired. If you want a big rig, save your money and buy an Arrma! You’ll never regret spending the extra money! My DBX-07 is in pieces and though I’ve had fun tinkering with it, it’s spent more time on the bench than it has being driven.

Thats all i need to know 👍🙏 Arrma kraton 6s exb is my dream car....mayby in the future... RTR about 1000€.... Thats a lot of thinking 😅

@@pertttikeinonen261 You get what you pay for! If you watch the whole series, you’ll see that the shocks were in bad shape when they arrived and they are designed to very loose tolerances. This makes it easy on the manufacturers and assemblers, but the end result isn’t very satisfying. Also the mold parts out of softer plastics which also makes it easier on the assemblers, but after you disassemble it even once, the hardware will strip and not hold as well. It’s just cheep.

@@wp1061 More or less, it’s got the “stealth” transmission… I built the RC10 at the same time so I may be misremembering. I think it was the RC10 that has the big felt pad between the gear box and the motor plate but it’s not a seal. It’s to keep mud from building up in that space. Remember, when these came out, they were racing on dirt tracks, groomed clay was years away. The RC10 still has that split gear trans with the ball diff as part of the spur gear… just like the original.

You should give it a shot... it depends on what you want to do with it of course. So many of the trucks are RTR now. Unless you're going to race somewhere, you'll probably find that everything you like is already built versus a kit. If you can't find a good project kit, you can always plan some interesting mods for the truck you have. You can strip it down, soak and degrease the bearings and reassemble it with some bling and performance parts.

Once I recover from my surgery which will probably take 3 months I'll be servicing the diffs and shocks etc on the big rock ready for the spring. I know from your previous build videos there's a lot of tiny parts to assemble so that might not be easy for me with my arthritis. Oh well it may not be an option.

Actually, that room is already getting tight... I had to move all the planes to a room next door. The overall basement is huge! It's coming together. I've got to move the mini-z track to a different section so I can add the expansion kit but then it will be a really fast track. I don't know if I mentioned it, but I got the timing system so I can track up to four cars at a time... it comes with four transponders but it may be able to track more at the same time, I'm not sure. Well, time to start cutting the videos from the RC10, RC10T builds and the vintage race. I'm going to try to get to a drifting event in the next two weeks... the shop near my house has a drift track that is open for practice whenever the shop is open. They are about 15-20 minutes away. BTW, have you been driving the truck this summer? It should have a good layer of dirt on it by now... I hope all goes well with the surgery! Are you nervous??? How about your wife? Is she worried about you going under the knife or is she reasonably confident? We'll be rooting for you!

I've had a blast running the big rock and also enjoyed letting others have a try at driving it. I'll be getting every last speck of dirt cleaned off it this week before my surgery stops me from doing anything for a few months. The surgery has cut my driving season short by at least a month but I'm getting desperate to have it done to hopefully reduce my pain level. The surgery does not concern me at all but my wife is already in panic mode. Once you get your hobby rooms completed I hope you can give us a tour of the various areas you set up. Take care and thanks for the videos and everything else I really appreciate it.

@@geordienufc3132 I'm so glad to hear that you're enjoying the truck! I hated hearing year after year that you were only getting to the field to fly a couple times the whole season. I knew your hands and finances were keeping you from enjoying the hobby as much as was otherwise possible. It was truly good medicine for the soul for us to hear your granddaughters laughing and having a great time playing with the truck. I'm glad that it's continuing to being you and others together for fun times. That's exactly what I was hoping it would do for you! I hope you get many years of fun from it! I'll definitely make a video tour of the basement when it's a little more complete. We've got movers coming next Friday to get the big stuff from the townhouse. Maybe we'll have that place sold by April. We've got a lot of equity built up in that property... and it's gone up in value by close to 50%. Looking forward to cashing it in.

@@teamottie Some people like it. Some people don’t.

@@garypalmer2066 That’s quite the testimonial! It it a solid frame regardless of what gear you put on it. It’s fantastic that you’re still able to ride at your age! More power to you!

There was some but I can't seem to find the video... I'll check my workstation and backup drives to see if I forgot to post a video or something. I've been moving into a new house and closing out my parent's estate. I'm just getting my hobby rooms set up and everything unpacked. New videos will be coming out in the next couple weeks. I'm planning to field 3 cars in the vintage nationals in early September (2wd buggy RC10, 2wd stadium truck RC10T, and 4wd buggy Yokomo 807c). I hope to get a lot of race videos over that weekend and I'll release build video playlists on all three cars. If I can find the video of the last time I ran that modded slash, I'll post it and comment here to let you know. I'll also be running it next spring. I could race it this fall, but I've got too many new kits on deck and several trips planned. Lots of new videos coming from those too! Thank for watching, CJ

@@MyRCChannel-CJScott sounds like you are very busy. Dont sweat it I was just wondering :) maybe a future video idea as I think it would interest some people

@@BrandonKent-v4u I’m not sure. I’d have to disassemble the car and measure because it could be a 3.5 diameter shaft. At some point you’ll need them all if you continue in the hobby. If you hold the end of the shaft against a ruler, you should be able to tell if it’s 3 or 4mm.

@@sloth1992 Mini-z is a niche area of the overall RC hobby. Things fall in and out of interest for no particular reason. The biggest being if the is racing at local clubs and shops. If there’s no where to race a class of car, like F1 for example, the cars sit on the shelf. F1 can race on any track where 1/10 road cars are raced, but if people don’t show up with their F1 cars, the organizers stop listening F1 races. I got F1 started again at my club by bringing mine and asking other people to bring theirs. First there were three of us then five, afterwards a regular 6-8 cars. Mini-z is even harder to get going because it requires a specific track which is very expensive and is only useful for mini-z cars. If a lot of people don’t show regularly and pay to race, the organizers lose big time! It also attracts a lot of fanatical people with inflexible opinions about what the rules should be. I’ve experienced this firsthand when I tried to work with a group of people to standardize the class rules. I couldn’t get a consensus on anything to the point that my wife made me pull out because it was eating all my time and energy not to mention driving me crazy. This may lead to the high price. They don’t sell in large numbers so to make a profit and still keep the product available the price has to be a bit on the high side.

@@donmaine9613 Thank you! And thanks for watching!

@@dj7dust76 I use thin CA glue. Try to not let it run down the sides, just around the edges.

@@svampae there may be, I’m still getting set up in my new house. Hopefully I will be making videos again sometime this summer.

Yes, but some people want a single color paint job that is as low weight as possible and stands out among all the other cars on the track. If you’re racing this can be a very important factor. During races, there’s a lot of car to car contact as well as hitting the rails and going off the course all together. The bodies take a lot of damage and people get angry when their fancy factory body gets torn up. You’re free to do as you wish. I make recommendations, no judgement.

No, but if you watch the full series of videos, you’ll see all the parts I buy and try. The best thing you can get is the super fast servo I use. Racing F1’s is all about handling so having the fastest response time is essential. All the stock suspension “parts trees” are available from Tamiya USA at very reasonable prices ($12-$16). This should be one of your first purchases and you should get a couple of each so you have multiple spares on hand. They break and they bend. If they get bent, toss them immediately and replace them. Next learn to adjust the camber by flipping/rotating the top brace between the upper A-arms. Get a couple sets of tires in different compounds and switch them around to tune the car (ex: soft front, medium rear). Downforce is also surprisingly effective in F1 so get an adjustable rear wing and a couple front wings. You’ll need to spend a lot of time testing one thing at a time to learn what effect they have but that’s racing. F1s have more tuning options and possibilities than most other RC cars. I recommend the carbon rear axle. It’s delicate but the car will accelerate and decelerate much more quickly. Also, I’d run a gear diff or a locked axle. The stock ball diff is inconsistent and it rarely feels the same two races in a row. At least a gear diff will feel consistent and you can use different viscosity fluid to adjust the feel. A locked axle will always feel the same and it will never get weird on you and change feeling during a race. I went through several different ball diffs and a gear diff before I went with a solid axle. One last piece of advice. If you’re serious about racing F1, don’t spend a bunch of money modifying this car. Save your money add buy an Xray X1’24 it’s their new F1 kit. I believe they make the best F1 kits and many of the best RC cars on and off road. But, these are just my opinions and advice. If you’re not serious about racing, you’ve got a good car. I’ve won a few club races and had lots of fun with mine. Best of luck to you whatever way you’re going! Thanks for watching. Sorry I haven’t been posting new content, I’m still getting moved into a new home and setting my parent’s affairs after their deaths. I hope to be rolling again soon! Regards, CJ

I bought it like 25 years ago. There are much better stands available... lighter ones to be sure. Truthfully, I don't remember where I bought it, it's been so long. It still works fine though! It's one of those tools that you'll buy once in a lifetime and if you take good care of it and don't sell it, you'll have it for life.

Unfortunately the readyset mini-z cars are locked to the basic receiver/transmitter. I believe there is a way to use a different transmitter but it is a Kyosho transmitter and it’s very pricy. The receiver is part of the controller board and can’t be replaced or upgraded. It’s one of the reasons the readyset cars are so inexpensive.

@@MyRCChannel-CJScott ok thanks, I appreciate your answering this. I know it may be obvious to folks who have been around this stuff for a long time, but I'm just getting going and despite a lot of searching for an answer to that question I hadn't found one until you responded!

@@cosmicstuff44 Hey, don’t feel like it was a stupid question. When I got started in mini-z, I had a lot of questions and had a hard time getting answers. I had the same question too. It didn’t make sense that there wasn’t a way to upgrade the readyset especially since the stock transmitter has so much lag. To get a competitive car, you have to make a big investment… for example, a good transmitter for mini-z is much more expensive than a descent 3ch trans. It’s actually less expensive to start racing 1/10 touring cars if you buy budget equipment that can still be competitive. There’s no middle of the road for mini-z… but it’s a fun class to race. Feel free to ask any questions you have and I’ll answer if I can. Regards, CJ

@@cosmicstuff44 I have bound my Flysky Noble 4+ to the boxstock cars, get the MINI Z dongle for the Flysky radio and bind as normal.

@@paulzarychta3201 I thought that only worked with the EVO Mini-z box stocks (versus the RTR's)???

Thank you very much! I hope it helps you. I really like the Fresh. I’ve got a second one that I will be building as a powered glider. I bought the motor/esc combo from Hyperflight. It’s light and compact. I’ve been in the process of moving into a new home and I lost my parents over the last three years… my mom in Sept 23 so I haven’t been able to do any new videos for a while. Thank you for subscribing! Let me know if you have any questions along the way. CJ

Hi, it depends on the spring rate, track surface temperature, etc. If you watch the series I'm sure I mention what I used in the initial setup... I don't remember off hand. Probably something between 27.5-32.5 Best of luck and thanks for watching! CJ Definitely watch all the videos. I put in a lot of tip and recommendations. It'll be worth your time.

It was an Amazon or eBay find. No make or model. It was 99.9% likely made in China and won’t be available exactly the same again. Sorry… I didn’t make the world! I just live in it. The link was good while they had stock. Yet another thing I have zero control over! If you search like I did, you can probably find a similar fork. Unfortunately the fat tire craze seems to be loosing steam and less and less manufacturers are making equipment for it. It’s too bad... I like them.

Yes, it would be great if some company would design a universal balancer for wheels and props that would tell us exactly how much to add and where to add it... it would probably cost upwards of $1,000 IF it could be done.

Unfortunately I haven’t had the chance to run any of my buggies or trucks, or fly any planes since last year. We’ve been moving into a new house. Dealing with my mother’s passing. Taking care of my parents estate, etc…. I have a lot of kits on deck and will be making videos again as soon as we get settled. Thanks for watching! CJ

Hi Jerry, I have a couple of Spektrum transmitters... I assume they are all similar, at least they seam to be. Go into the setup and start with a new plane, select a glider, select the wing type, if you're building this plane, all you need is a servo for the spoiler and that you can program later... you don't have ailerons or flaps but you can select a single servo for flaps and use it for the spoiler if you wish, now it's time to select the type of tail, you are offered the choice of an x-tail or a v-tail... select the v-tail. How familiar are you with how a v-tail functions? To make the glider go up, both servos pull the tail surfaces inward pushing the tail downward, and the reverse to make the glider go up. To make the glider turn, both surfaces move in opposite directions causing a yawing action. Unlike an x-tail or standard tail, both surfaces always move together. With an x-tail, only one surface needs to move to make the plane go up or down, or to yaw left or right. Personally, I prefer x-tails although I fly a lot of v-tail gliders. I hope this helps. If there are some things you don't understand or you need more help with, just ask, and I'll do what I can. Thanks for watching, CJ