Thank you very much for the wonderful explanation in all the videos I would like to know how I can pierce the pipe correctly The pile is 2 meters wide, 1.8 cm high, and 15 meters long. What is the power of the air pump? What is the correct operating time, always or at intervals?
Thank you for your question. You can use a 4 inch diameter pipe with 3/8" holes drilled every 8 inches. A 1 hp air blower that can provide at least 6 inches of water column pressure is likely going to be fine. The size of the air blower depends on the amount of energy (air requirement) in the composting material, as well as the air-filled porosity of the material. A timer that can provide some air at 30 minute intervals would be ideal.
hi John Paul, thanks for the video! i see that with a very small blower you are able to aerate a very large pile. i was wondering what your thoughts would be on a pile that's half as wide and tall as you mention in the video but twice as long ( 15ft wide, 8ft tall and 240ft long). what kind of motor would you think i would need? will a 5hp blower reach to the end of that very long windrow? appreciate your time, thank you!
A 5 hp blower may be enough for a 240 ft long windrow - but it depends on a number of factors, including the type of material being composted (the oxygen demand), the air-filled porosity (to allow additional cold air in from the bottom sides of the windrow), the type of blower (centrifugal blowers provide adequate pressure), the size of the pipes under the windrow (needs to be able to carry air the length of the windrow), and the hole size and spacing (goal is to maintain the same pressure along the length of the windrow). I hope that this is helpful. Thanks, John
Would this be a static pile so no turning involved at all? Thanks I’m looking at making a no blower compost just perforated pipes at the bottom of the pile and pipes going vertical with perforations and left open at the top to let the air through (logically as hot air rises it will draw cold air up with oxygen) through the pile i am only making a 300 litre approx pile so no where near the amounts you deal with. Thanks
Normally these aerated piles do need to be turned so that the material on the outside gets placed into the middle where it can also get hot. Smaller batches that are not insulated in some way may not generate the heat required to create the air movement that we see in larger piles.
@@TransformCompost What if we put an insulated cover on top of the compost pile, but left a strip on the top to allow heat to exit to draw oxygen in? I want to be a professional compost maker soon and I want some advise before I start my first pile. I plan (or had planned if I change my mind) on making a 2 cubic yard pile the inefficient way to described with it being inside a wooden box. Also, if I make a pile this small, should I make a "pile" or a windrow like you show here?
Nice video thank you ! Do you know the jean pain methode to creat hot water, heat for building and hydrogen for thermic motor ? With this amount o compost you can provide lot of people.
My basic concept about composting has been bit shaken. As i know, initially heat is required to kill the spores and pests for about a week, when pile cools down after 5- 10 days turn pile upside down for aeration. Will pile keep its high temperature in the presence of this vent? Thanks
The length of time that a pile may stay hot depends on many factors, but a small pile will lose heat more quickly. With a small pile, the intense microbial activity in the beginning of the process may result in some accumulation of heat as there is more heat produced than heat lost out of the pile. After a week, the microbial activity may no longer be as intense, and more heat is lost out of the pile than produced by the microbes.
We usually use HDPE or PVC piping. You can use HDPE piping above the ground and pull the pipes out when you mix. With PVC piping, its usually embedded in the concrete floor, or placed in trenches.
Are you a German speaker? There is a German company which makes emisiones monitors specifically for compost piles. I saw a video in Spanish done by a Colombian university, but they did not name the company.
Thanks for the question Stefan. I measure oxygen using a Demista Instruments oxygen probe. Its a simple and cost effective tool that helps our understanding of what is happening in the compost. I measure it when I begin a new composting process and periodically after that to verify that we are supplying enough oxygen. There is no need to continually measure oxygen as its very expensive.
We have an in-vessel composter. And we pile the compost that is generated in an open area. So this compost piles should be covered to safe guard from rain ? Because due to rain the inside temperature of compost pile may get reduced. Please suggest
Thanks John, really informative. Cheers from Bolivia
VERY IMPRESSION
Amazing explanation can be understood,thank you so much.
Thank you very much for the wonderful explanation in all the videos
I would like to know how I can pierce the pipe correctly
The pile is 2 meters wide, 1.8 cm high, and 15 meters long. What is the power of the air pump?
What is the correct operating time, always or at intervals?
Thank you for your question. You can use a 4 inch diameter pipe with 3/8" holes drilled every 8 inches. A 1 hp air blower that can provide at least 6 inches of water column pressure is likely going to be fine. The size of the air blower depends on the amount of energy (air requirement) in the composting material, as well as the air-filled porosity of the material. A timer that can provide some air at 30 minute intervals would be ideal.
hi John Paul, thanks for the video! i see that with a very small blower you are able to aerate a very large pile. i was wondering what your thoughts would be on a pile that's half as wide and tall as you mention in the video but twice as long ( 15ft wide, 8ft tall and 240ft long). what kind of motor would you think i would need? will a 5hp blower reach to the end of that very long windrow? appreciate your time, thank you!
A 5 hp blower may be enough for a 240 ft long windrow - but it depends on a number of factors, including the type of material being composted (the oxygen demand), the air-filled porosity (to allow additional cold air in from the bottom sides of the windrow), the type of blower (centrifugal blowers provide adequate pressure), the size of the pipes under the windrow (needs to be able to carry air the length of the windrow), and the hole size and spacing (goal is to maintain the same pressure along the length of the windrow). I hope that this is helpful. Thanks, John
Would this be a static pile so no turning involved at all? Thanks I’m looking at making a no blower compost just perforated pipes at the bottom of the pile and pipes going vertical with perforations and left open at the top to let the air through (logically as hot air rises it will draw cold air up with oxygen) through the pile i am only making a 300 litre approx pile so no where near the amounts you deal with. Thanks
Normally these aerated piles do need to be turned so that the material on the outside gets placed into the middle where it can also get hot.
Smaller batches that are not insulated in some way may not generate the heat required to create the air movement that we see in larger piles.
@@TransformCompost What if we put an insulated cover on top of the compost pile, but left a strip on the top to allow heat to exit to draw oxygen in? I want to be a professional compost maker soon and I want some advise before I start my first pile. I plan (or had planned if I change my mind) on making a 2 cubic yard pile the inefficient way to described with it being inside a wooden box. Also, if I make a pile this small, should I make a "pile" or a windrow like you show here?
thank you so much
You are welcome!
Nice video thank you ! Do you know the jean pain methode to creat hot water, heat for building and hydrogen for thermic motor ? With this amount o compost you can provide lot of people.
Yes, thank you, I am aware of using compost to heat buildings and create energy!
My basic concept about composting has been bit shaken. As i know, initially heat is required to kill the spores and pests for about a week, when pile cools down after 5- 10 days turn pile upside down for aeration. Will pile keep its high temperature in the presence of this vent? Thanks
The length of time that a pile may stay hot depends on many factors, but a small pile will lose heat more quickly. With a small pile, the intense microbial activity in the beginning of the process may result in some accumulation of heat as there is more heat produced than heat lost out of the pile. After a week, the microbial activity may no longer be as intense, and more heat is lost out of the pile than produced by the microbes.
Would like a be description of the pipe
We usually use HDPE or PVC piping. You can use HDPE piping above the ground and pull the pipes out when you mix. With PVC piping, its usually embedded in the concrete floor, or placed in trenches.
Are those plastic on your pile? Correct me ifim wrong
Yes indeed, these are plastics. This is a residential organics compost facility, so unfortunately some plastics end up in the green bins....!
Nice
J.M.
Director
🇨🇷🇨🇷🇨🇷👍
pretty sure my wife would be pissed if i had the size of pile you just mentioned. in my backyard.... challenge accepted
Agreed, it would likely only be the start of your troubles if you put a big pile in your backyard!
How and when do you measure the oxygen level?
You use an oximeter
@@estebancorral5151 And how exactly do you do that? Which limit values must be maintained?
Are you a German speaker? There is a German company which makes emisiones monitors specifically for compost piles. I saw a video in Spanish done by a Colombian university, but they did not name the company.
Thanks for the question Stefan. I measure oxygen using a Demista Instruments oxygen probe. Its a simple and cost effective tool that helps our understanding of what is happening in the compost. I measure it when I begin a new composting process and periodically after that to verify that we are supplying enough oxygen. There is no need to continually measure oxygen as its very expensive.
Why oxygen required for compost to mature ?
For aerobic composting. Microbes need oxygen to thrive and breakdown materials
Without oxygen you get anaerobic decomposition which produces a horrible odor and a lot of methane gas.
We have an in-vessel composter. And we pile the compost that is generated in an open area. So this compost piles should be covered to safe guard from rain ? Because due to rain the inside temperature of compost pile may get reduced. Please suggest