Longtime SawStop owner Michael Morton shares what makes his SawStop the best value he could find in a tablesaw for his custom woodshop. www.highlandwoo... www.scottmorton...
Hey Patrick - the Sawstop Contractor Saw went to my dad's shop. My kids go over there all the time, so some family members went in to purchase that for him! Wow, what an upgrade - he loves it.
Wonderful review. I was going back and forth between the Contractor and Professional, but after seeing both I've decided to go with this one. Thanks for taking the time to put it together. Oh PS: Nice shoes...I have the same exact ones. Keen rocks.
Hi April! Thanks for the comment! You can purchase the SawStop PCS on our website here: www.highlandwoodworking.com/sawstopprofessionalcabinettablesawpcs10.aspx and if you have any further questions about the saw we would be happy to answer them for you!
Answered my own question. I was wrong, the blade does seem to conduct. Got a fast red flash in standby. Wanted to use the Freud blade since it is thin kerf and I was not too happy with the blade that came with the saw. Again, excellent video!
Im glad you mentioned that. to be clear, Im not at all implying that this saw should take place of common sense and safety. Im sure youre right regarding a powermatic or the equivalent, but, the reality is, MOST of us would be more than happy with the quality of the sawstop, and having the added feature of safety, never hurts.
Excellent video. Have the same saw myself only the lower powered model. Noticed you originally had a Freud(?) blade in the saw and switched to a different blade for the brake demo. The Freud blade is coated and I have found that it is not conductive. The manual states that non-conductive blades should not be used. Did you sand off the red coating at the arbor?
Blade changing is recommended, but only necessary if the plate is damaged, which is extremely unlikely, even it it throws a few teeth, they can be replaced by a decent saw service. The aluminum is no match for the carbide teeth even the sharpness of the teeth will likely be unchanged.
Whew, quite a slope - but nice if water ever gets in (assuming it slopes the right way!). I don't have much experience with that luckily - so unfortunately I'm sorry I don't have any good suggestions on an easy fix... re-lay a nice wooden floor on top? :D
great video, brother! I am def thinking about updating to the same Saw Stop PCS 220v demo'd here. I have a Ridgid TS3660 CTR Saw right now and the horsepower is lacking. The problem with my shop is it is in my garage and the floor slopes almost 2" from front to back over a 30' span. Any suggestions on leveling that out? It causes big problems when moving my tools around the shop into different positions
Comparing how the two saws might trip a circuit is not a helpful comparison in general because they require different voltages to operate (thus they run on different electrical circuits normally). The 3HP model SawStop requires a 220 volt circuit. The 1.75HP model comes ready to run on a 110 volt circuit. If you don't have a wired receptacle to support plugging in a tool that requires 220v electrical service, you would need to consult a qualified electrician to see if your service panel could have it added (before considering the 3 HP model). As far as operating the 1.75HP tablesaw on any existing 110V receptacles in your garage, the amperage of the cirucit (15 or 20 amps) and the overall demand (load) on the particular circuit where other devices drawing current on the circuit where you have the receptacle where you plugged in the saw, factor into predicting if your saw may trip the circuit breaker panel when it's under load. Because the motor on the 1.75 HP saw is 14 amps, SawStop recommends running the saw on a 20 amp circuit. If you have that in your garage, that would be ideal. If you have just a 15 amp circuit to plug the saw into (many residential houses have the 110 volt wiring wired as 15 amp circuits) then keeping the load light on the circuit while using the tablesaw would be important (running a dust collector on the same circuit while cutting with the saw would probably cause the circuit to trip - especially when doing heavier cutting tasks).
The 3HP 220 volt version, will actually draw less amperage than the 1.75HP 110 volt version, but as HW said, you'll need a 220V outlet installed. If your main breaker panel is in your garage like mine is, you can easily add a sub panel next to the main one for the 220 volt service, then hook it into the main panel off a 20-50 amp dual breaker. That's how I did mine. I ran pvc conduit from the new sub panel to pvc outlet boxes... one for the table saw, and one for the 220v dust collector.
If you want accurate work on a precision cabinet saw and save your digits then hire me or learn how to do joiner work. The Powermatic is three times as heavy, Ten times more stable while doing heavy cuts and easily rolls around on four retractable casters. I'm 62 years old and began my apprenticeship at 15 and never have had an accident with any woodworking machine. The tablesaw is one of the safest tools in the shop when compared with jointers, bandsaws, shapers and thickness planers.
*scratches head* $135.00 for a blade that's more than my whole Table saw brand new (Ryobi 10 in. 15 Amp Table Saw $129.00 ).....if you can afford the really high end blade and saws go for it but not everyone can this is what I use Diablo 10 in. x 60 Tooth Carbide Circular Saw Blade $39.97 these are good for ripping and cross cutting never had a problem out of them..... I will say this If I had the extra $ I would get a better Table saw but i would stick with the cheaper blades
Here's the video where the inventor did stick his finger into the blade. Saw Stop - This guy puts a finger into an active table saw blade & comes away without a scratch!
Hey Patrick - the Sawstop Contractor Saw went to my dad's shop. My kids go over there all the time, so some family members went in to purchase that for him! Wow, what an upgrade - he loves it.
How many of us just jumped forward to see it attempt yet another hot dog? (Hint: skip to the 6:00 mark.)
Wonderful review. I was going back and forth between the Contractor and Professional, but after seeing both I've decided to go with this one. Thanks for taking the time to put it together.
Oh PS: Nice shoes...I have the same exact ones. Keen rocks.
Hi April! Thanks for the comment! You can purchase the SawStop PCS on our website here: www.highlandwoodworking.com/sawstopprofessionalcabinettablesawpcs10.aspx and if you have any further questions about the saw we would be happy to answer them for you!
Answered my own question. I was wrong, the blade does seem to conduct. Got a fast red flash in standby. Wanted to use the Freud blade since it is thin kerf and I was not too happy with the blade that came with the saw. Again, excellent video!
Im glad you mentioned that. to be clear, Im not at all implying that this saw should take place of common sense and safety. Im sure youre right regarding a powermatic or the equivalent, but, the reality is, MOST of us would be more than happy with the quality of the sawstop, and having the added feature of safety, never hurts.
Luckily it has the option of temporarily bypassing the safety brake, just in case you want to make a nice mitered picture frame out of hotdogs.
I'm glad you have the Sawstop safety feature to protect your fingers. However, I don't see any eye protection anywhere in sight.
Excellent video. Have the same saw myself only the lower powered model. Noticed you originally had a Freud(?) blade in the saw and switched to a different blade for the brake demo. The Freud blade is coated and I have found that it is not conductive. The manual states that non-conductive blades should not be used. Did you sand off the red coating at the arbor?
Blade changing is recommended, but only necessary if the plate is damaged, which is extremely unlikely, even it it throws a few teeth, they can be replaced by a decent saw service. The aluminum is no match for the carbide teeth even the sharpness of the teeth will likely be unchanged.
Whew, quite a slope - but nice if water ever gets in (assuming it slopes the right way!). I don't have much experience with that luckily - so unfortunately I'm sorry I don't have any good suggestions on an easy fix... re-lay a nice wooden floor on top? :D
great video, brother! I am def thinking about updating to the same Saw Stop PCS 220v demo'd here. I have a Ridgid TS3660 CTR Saw right now and the horsepower is lacking. The problem with my shop is it is in my garage and the floor slopes almost 2" from front to back over a 30' span. Any suggestions on leveling that out? It causes big problems when moving my tools around the shop into different positions
What did you do with the contractor saw that you had?
said the brand-snob..
will a powermatic save your digits?
Would you say a 30" 1.75hp is better to use in a house garage or could I use the 36" 3hp without throwing breakers at my house/garage???
Comparing how the two saws might trip a circuit is not a helpful comparison in general because they require different voltages to operate (thus they run on different electrical circuits normally). The 3HP model SawStop requires a 220 volt circuit. The 1.75HP model comes ready to run on a 110 volt circuit. If you don't have a wired receptacle to support plugging in a tool that requires 220v electrical service, you would need to consult a qualified electrician to see if your service panel could have it added (before considering the 3 HP model).
As far as operating the 1.75HP tablesaw on any existing 110V receptacles in your garage, the amperage of the cirucit (15 or 20 amps) and the overall demand (load) on the particular circuit where other devices drawing current on the circuit where you have the receptacle where you plugged in the saw, factor into predicting if your saw may trip the circuit breaker panel when it's under load. Because the motor on the 1.75 HP saw is 14 amps, SawStop recommends running the saw on a 20 amp circuit. If you have that in your garage, that would be ideal. If you have just a 15 amp circuit to plug the saw into (many residential houses have the 110 volt wiring wired as 15 amp circuits) then keeping the load light on the circuit while using the tablesaw would be important (running a dust collector on the same circuit while cutting with the saw would probably cause the circuit to trip - especially when doing heavier cutting tasks).
The 3HP 220 volt version, will actually draw less amperage than the 1.75HP 110 volt version, but as HW said, you'll need a 220V outlet installed. If your main breaker panel is in your garage like mine is, you can easily add a sub panel next to the main one for the 220 volt service, then hook it into the main panel off a 20-50 amp dual breaker. That's how I did mine. I ran pvc conduit from the new sub panel to pvc outlet boxes... one for the table saw, and one for the 220v dust collector.
i want 1
If you like that saw, you've never owned a saw before. POWERMATIC!
Shut up grandpa. Go take a nap.
I did see one video where a guy did use his finger.....successfully too.
If you want accurate work on a precision cabinet saw and save your digits then hire me or learn how to do joiner work. The Powermatic is three times as heavy, Ten times more stable while doing heavy cuts and easily rolls around on four retractable casters. I'm 62 years old and began my apprenticeship at 15 and never have had an accident with any woodworking machine. The tablesaw is one of the safest tools in the shop when compared with jointers, bandsaws, shapers and thickness planers.
Plenty of people walking around with missing fingers from a Powematic.
Check out the "SAWSTOP in TimeWarp" video, skip to 3:00
*scratches head* $135.00 for a blade that's more than my whole Table saw brand new (Ryobi 10 in. 15 Amp Table Saw $129.00 ).....if you can afford the really high end blade and saws go for it but not everyone can this is what I use Diablo 10 in. x 60 Tooth Carbide Circular Saw Blade $39.97 these are good for ripping and cross cutting never had a problem out of them..... I will say this If I had the extra $ I would get a better Table saw but i would stick with the cheaper blades
Here's the video where the inventor did stick his finger into the blade. Saw Stop - This guy puts a finger into an active table saw blade & comes away without a scratch!
Nice but costs more then my car.