I have to say I appreciate your commitment to using your blade guard as much as possible. Almost every table saw accident I have ever heard of could have been prevented with a blade guard. The more they see UA-camrs using their guards, the more folks will come to realize they are worth the hassle and it is a fallacy to think you can not work effectively with one in place for most cuts. HOWEVER- Table saw manufacturers also have to step up their game and make sturdy guards that are easier to remove and replace without tools, as SawStop and other premium brands have. I can't blame someone for leaving his guard off if it's a flimsy piece of crap or if it takes ten minutes and three Allen wrenches to put it back on..... I have four saws in my shop and three of them are SawStops. I have their ICS, their contractor's saw and their jobsite saw. As someone with a lot of experience with their entire line I can say I have never been disappointed in their saws. And I use my guards for 95% of my cuts.
That matches my experience. My PCS is the third table saw I have owned, but is the first one that I use the blade guard as much as I can. On the earlier saws, I removed the guard and never put it back on.
So the issue I have had with guards is that the boards get stuck. I have had it happen, even on the sawstop. And I hate that. And end up taking them offf.
@@Monuments_to_Good_Intentions if they are getting stuck, are you sure they are properly adjusted? The riving knife should be in line with the body of the blade and not the edge of the teeth. You also want to ensure your trunnion is aligned, this is often an issue on newer saws. The riving knife or splitter should never be restricting movement
@@Monuments_to_Good_Intentions How did your board get stuck with the SawStop guard? Which guard? The dust collection guard like Marc shows in this video, or the simpler flip-guard? Was it the anti-kickback pawls that caused the catch? (I hate those and always lock them in the upward position).
Actually "Almost every table saw accident I have ever heard of could have been prevented with..." learning and always using proper table saw habits/techniques.
One more thing. Note to all sawstop owners. If you are cutting pitchy wood such as pine, YOU MUST CLEAN THE BLADE REGULARLY. I found this out the easy way. Had been cutting pine and was showing a friend how the saw senses your skin. With the saw off you can touch the side of the blade and watch the red light go off. It didn't. Changed the blade and it was fine.
New to woodworking, bought a sawstop a little over a year ago. Absolutely love it. Looking forward to a how to for that fence upgrade. Never even thought of seeing if I could change that. Still so many things to learn..
You do have to spend some time setting the saw up... blade, fence, etc. But once done, the saw is great. Fairly compact which is Nice ua-cam.com/users/postUgkxXh-4_3-ZT1fFWP91ZV7iVqzElr0lEb-a I did get an Incra Miter Gauge which takes some setup as well. The stock miter gauge can be adjusted in the miter slot with a little painter's tape... this tightens up the side to side play a lot.
Hey Mark I'm a woodworker of over 40 years and 6 years ago I got the Sawstop because I got my thumb for the second time with my craftsman contractors saw. Since owning my Sawstop I have had 3 activations (not proud moments) but only one was a flesh contact and the other two were should I say a dumb moments. At this point in my life I'm glad I have it and I know you were used to the Powermatic saw where I came from the other end of the spectrum so it is tons better than the Craftsman. I'm hoping I can figure out that I need to think things thru a little better so I don't set it off again. Anyway I really enjoy using my saw even though I'm a little gun shy at the moment.
I have had my PCS for almost 10 years ... consider it one of the best woodworking investments I have made. It was dead-on accurate out of the crate, and has never given me a single problem (well, there was that one accidental activation when I let my aluminum miter gauge get too close to the blade!).
Except for the fact I've had my PCS for 5 years - exact same comment. I'm just a retired engineer who does some woodworking as a hobby, but can afford to spend for some high end toys now and then, and picked this one. When cutting with my incra HD miter set to a very sharp angle, touched the blade and bang. Didn't even leave a mark on the miter, though the Freud premier fusion blade was toast.
@@cctknight84 I popped the brake on my very first cut ever because I did not readjust my 1000HD. It's preserved forever as my wife wanted to 'document' the first cut on my most expensive purchase. Premiere Fusion as well.
@@grantman1148 lol, oh no, memorialized forever!! I will say, after 30 years of using a Craftsman belt drive contractor saw, my first cuts with a 3 hp Sawstop were quite the revelation. My next upgrade will be to my dust collection system - to call what I now have a system is probably quite the exaggeration.
My multiple activations were all related to the miter gauge. Train yourself to carefully check when either the saw blade and/or miter gauge are not longer in the 90 deg position.
Spot on about injuries. My only ER trip as an adult occurred when I was working tired (strike 1), then reached across the blade after shutting off the saw to remove an offcut (strike 2 and strike 3). It wasn't that serious but I'm so glad you brought it up. The blade guard would have saved me too, but like you also mention, I didn't have it on the saw at the time.
As an ex Health and Safety Guy ... Term that escapes most is "Zero Energy State" .... "off" Seldom means free of Danger. Super Glad you brought this up!
Marc, I used to work for Woodcraft. I’ve owned my PCS for 3.5 years. At Woodcraft we sold SawStop 10-1 over Powermatic and Jet. When I left Woodcraft 2 years ago, a new PM2000 was $350 more than a PCS 3 hp 36”. I’m happy you have your new saw. Some day your kids will want to use the saw. It’s nice to know they will be protected from harm. Nice transparent review as usual. Thanks.
Congradulations. I bought a SawStop 3 years ago after 25 years with a big, 3HP General. I liked the General, like the sawstop and concur with everything expressed here. Four things I don't like about the saw. The distance between the blade and the front of the saw is much shorter, forcing me to use a sled, which I find awkward, for boards wider than 10". Second the quality of the top is not what the General was; it was spotless after 25 years while the Sawstop started accumulating scratches immediately. When shaving a bit off the end of a crosscut, small pieces of wood can get stuck in the very narrow throat of the dust collector. Finally, like you I hooked my overhead dust arm up to a Fesstool extractor but found the extra hassle didn't provide enough benefit over the standard installation. If I were buying today, I'd probably think hard about the Harvey, but don't really have any big regrets about my purchase.
I have the same saw and mobile base. It has been a great tool. I will admit my saw did not seem to be aligned as well as most claim and I was a little disappointed at first. Between the instruction manual and Sawstop's videos I was able to get my saw tuned perfectly. Being able to adjust blade alignment when tilted allowed me to get perfect cuts on some pyramid shaped newel post tops I had to make recently. I truly appreciate the thought that went into making the saw adjustable in every manner necessary to keep it in tune.
I've had my SS PCS for several years with no complaints. I've never had an accidental activation. I typically don't have to adjust the blade distance when I go to a dado stack, either. It's a great saw that has been worth the investment.
I love mine. Saved me a trip to the ER when I was ripping thin stock. Well worth the cost just because of that, as well as the dust collection for my basement shop. Congrats, you'll enjoy it!
I thought i couldn't afford a SS and had purchased an older Delta Unisaw. Last Labor Day I was doing a cove cut on the table saw and managed to take a notch out of my left index finger. After a trip to the Emergency Room and seeing a hand specialist, my finger has recovered 99 percent. I am certainly not the craftsman that Marc and others posting here are, but I am very safety conscious and have been using table saws for 45 years plus without incident. Sitting in the ER waiting room I jokingly mentioned to my wife that if I needed to upgrade to a SS. After talking about it she said let's get one, it will be cheaper than additional trips to the ER. I received the saw in September and was thoroughly impressed with the assembly instructions and the overall quality of the saw. The Unisaw was nice, but the SS is great. Good review.
Marc, welcome to SawStop. I’ve had an original PCS (now ICS) since 2007 and have enjoyed using it. If the current PCS had been available back then I would have bought one of them. Like you said, they are good for what most of us do. Your review was excellent and well done as usual. Your information on the blade guard dust collection already has me thinking that I need to change mine out. The original guard, while it’s a great guard and easy to swap out, has no dust collection. I find that I use for every cut where it’s possible to use the guard due to how easy and quick it is to exchange it with the riving knife. Your statement that the technology add on is sort of like a tax was interesting. I’ve always considered it more like an insurance premium. Even though I have great medical insurance changing out a brake and having a blade repaired is still much less than even my medical detectable would be for a stay in the hospital. I got my saw because as soon as my wife saw the SawStop video she told me to buy one and even figured out how we could pay for one. She immediately recognized how much one could save us in the event of a table saw accident. I’m interested in seeing your modifications so I’m looking forward to videos on them. Thanks for sharing.
Welcome to the SawStop community! I suggest you got ahead and buy both a standard cartridge and a dado cartridge. When you eventually trigger the brake, you want to be able to swap the cartridge and put a new blade in and get back to work without having to wait for a new one to be delivered or finding one at a local store. I keep one of each cartridge in my blade storage box.
I’m really glad for you. While woodworking and creating content at the same time, it’s nice knowing you have EXTRA safety in place. I have had a SawStop for many years and it’s been a pleasure to use. I considered the Powermatic because you were using it, as also my house is full of Festool, but my wife rolled her eyes and said “GET THE HOTDOG SAW”. I am a professional Drummer and a Golf Professional, and I’m accustom to using all my fingers for both, plus not wanting to make that shameful trip to the hospital. Bonus, BLACK is my favorite color. Good luck with your SawStop
I have all kinds of reasons to want to keep my fingers, but when I started making guitars, the insane contrast of using a table saw that can injure one, and building guitars really spoke to me. I switched to a Swiss precision saw, and I just won't do anything on the saw, or use the saw to do crazy things. If it is risky I don't do it. In fact, I don't do it if it is conceivable I would be hurt. The thing is back to about 1980 ish, most US instruction was based on doing everything on the table saw. But these days, in the shops, a lot of us have today there is no reason to take risks. Say a person might have done slip joints for doors holding the pieces vertically over the blade. Today you have devices that hold those pieces, biscuits, Dominoes, mortising machines. Why take a risk doing anything that might end in disaster. On that basis SS is irrelevant.
I'm making the same switch, mostly because the footprint of the built in mobile base on the PM 2000 won't fit down my basement stairs (which is where the new home shop is) and I have no bulkhead access to the basement. I've used Sawstop saws professionally and find the quality to be on par with Powermatic, but if the PM 2000 would fit I'd surely keep it. I have to say that there are soooo many people on UA-cam talking about woodworking but you seem to be among those who really know what they are doing. Very good production quality and useful, insightful information.
When SawStop hired me I was going to get the PCS as part of my commission but they didn’t have in stock, they only had the ICS in their warehouse. It is A LOT of saw to have. I don’t regret it at all, but definitely not needed for most shops. Nice video :)
After owning the same saw and using it for a month or so my employee accidentally touched the blade while running and kicked off the safety feature. There was absolutely no harm to his finger and saw stop replaced the cartridge for free. I had to send the old one in and they checked to see if it was flesh contact that set it off then sent me a new one out pretty quickly. They’re a great company with amazing customer service.
That is great though how the hell did that happen. Do you drug test at all. In a worshop there are many things that can gore you, unless you just push wood through the saw all day. Nice to know the saw worked, what are you going to do about the employee?
I’ve run a SawStop since 2007 - saved at least two fingers! One was mine and the other my master level lead man. Worth every penny x100! I discard the blade after a brake activation. As the SS tech explained to me, a brake activation can generate very high momentary heat which can compromise the carbide brazing on on or more teeth. Better to replace the blade than risk slinging carbide! True.
I always think the best thing they could do for tablesaw safety would be to stop the blade very quickly. You're so right about the injuries that happen when we're impatient for that blade to stop. I hope you love your saw Marc.
My understanding is this is the real reason dado stacks aren't "legal" in Europe. The actual regulation is when a saw is stopped/turned off the blade must stop spinning under a certain time (very quick). Dado stacks are heavy and prevent the motor/stopping mechanism from stopping the spinning fast enough. At least that's what I vaguely remember from a Stumpy Nubs video.
@@kykkeliky124 Life experience will ultimately reveal that normal human behavior will _always_ include human error. These things are engineered to protect us from ourselves, whether we want to recognize it or not.
@@BartonMaxwell This is correct, it's too expensive for lower-end saws in Europe to have this tech, so they just make the stacks incompatible with their arbors. But higher end consumer and all industrial saws have the ability to be tooled for dado stacks.
Back in the 1990's I had a Jet cabinet saw with 3HP. For the past 9 years I have owned the ICS SawStop, 3HP also. I have resawed 1x6 Ipe with the blade fully up and burried and did not hear any straining going on. 3hp is pleanty for any operation. No more HP needed unless you run the saw non stop all day long. I switch between a WWII and a dado set often. It takes me 30 seconds longer to make the swap including changing the brake. Adjustment is not critical as long as the brake is not too close to the blade. I had a false trigger when I forgot to adjust the brake for the yet to be sharpened dado set. Now I simply adjust by a certain amount of turns and do not measure. A little of dry lube on the pivot points on the brake help to make it slide on and off of the placement rod more easily. You will get the hang of it. Put a touch of that dry lube on the lock pin lever too.
Nice thing about cutting damp wood is that the safety feature can be easily bypassed so you can still make the cut without risking a brake activation. Takes only a few seconds and the system resets when you turn off the saw.
Awesome Video. I got my SawStop in January of this year. I accidentally activated the safety break, right after purchasing my Forrest Two woodworker blade. Uuuggghhh....! It's currently sent out for repair on the 3 teeth that got misaligned after becoming imbedded in the safety break cartridge. I was using my Swanson Metal Square on my crosscut sled.... Silly, silly , silly of me. I love the guard. You don't need to add a separate vacuum to it. It pushes the dust by the force of the air coming off the blade, along with the suction from your 4" or bigger, dust collector. And you can easily make your own Blade Dust Collection system, avoiding that $250 price tag for above table collection. Great machine. Thanks Mark.
Welcome aboard the SawStop Express, Marc~! I picked mine up in 2016 after having used my Craftsman 10" contractor saw since 1990'ish. I had an accident on that one around '98 and almost lost a finger, but came out okay. I stalked the SS Pro for several years and was wanting one, but the price was intimidating. We were in a tool store in Columbia, SC, where they carried them and after showing it to my wife, she said "I think you need one of those SawStop thingys" as we were about to leave. With that endorsement, I did an immediate about-face and took one home. I've not looked back since. Best tool purchase I've made in over 30 years of woodworking~!!
I've had my Sawstop CB-ICS for about 15 years, and love it. My addition of dedicated vacuum for blade guard was great addition. My other happiness comes from Incra TS LS. With it installed you don't need the table legs and have room for nice under table cabinet. I don't know if the current saws are different, but with mine the blade brake is still functional until the blade stops after turning the saw off.
I sell Saw Stop at Woodcraft and your description was spot on.Another Saw Stop tax is when you disable the electronic package to in fact cut wet wood, you practally have to field strip the inside.Carefully wiping out all the surfaces.
Welcome to the club! One thing to clarify - while Sawstop recommendations do limit the blades and Dado stack you can use, it's not a super burdensome list. A lot of popular blades are on the green list. The only notable blades that get nixed are a few brands have anti kickback pawls on their rip blades (looking at you Freud) and that's obnoxious ,because that's specifically black listed. For Dado Stacks most of the popular 8 inch sets are fine. I think this truly only pops up if you upgrade your saw and have the misfortune of having already owned black list blades. But the list of green list blades is easy enough to buy from. (+/- today's back order craziness)
Hi Marc, great video. As a Sawstop ICS owner I can tell you the overarm guard does have one big flaw. While the dust collection is excellent, strangely the opening where the hose connects is smaller in terms of total area than the front of the guard where chips and dust are sucked up. Many times I've had little off cut pieces that are big enough to get sucked up but not big enough to go through the opening at the back. They get stuck and clog everything up and you have to stop and remove the guard and I often have to use a plumber's drain stick to fish the pieces out of there. Not fun. Also, the safety system is necessary even with the guard on. I know this from experience. I was ripping some small stock with the guard attached and when I reached over with my left hand to grab the off cut that came off, my index finger contacted the back of the spinning blade because those side wings on the guard rise and lower with the thickness of the pieces being cut. that left an opening big enough for my finger to go through. The safety system worked just like advertised, and though I had to go to the ER and get a few stitches, my finger is still attached! Best of luck with the saw.
we have 2 saw stops in our shop. They are great saws when they're new, but after a few years they are both falling apart and worn out in the exact same ways. The blade adjustment handle is broken on both saws (height and angle adjustment, so that's 4 broken handles), the panel beside the blade to improve dust collection is broken on both saws, the cam lever to tighten the fence is worn out on both saws. both saws have had their paddle switches replaced multiple times. In my opinion they are not robust enough for a shop environment.
@@TheWoodFly used delta and general and altendorf saws before that. I did replace a few paddle switches but none of the handles ever broke off in my hand.
I bought a Saw Stop 4 years ago and I love it. I bought the 52” and I debated on the horsepower for awhile before deciding the 1.75 hp should be enough and I haven’t regretted it. I converted it to 240v and bought a woodworker2 blade for it that made a world of difference. A builder friend brought over a rough sawn 4x12 piece of cherry for a fireplace mantel and I was able to rip it in 2 passes with the blade at full depth with no problem. One of the main reasons I bought one was because I’m 60 now and I remember how scary my Dad got working on his tablesaw in his 80’s and I figured one trip to the ER would cost more than the saw.
Marc welcome to the club, had mine nearly 10 years prior to that a Delta Unisaw, saved me 4X from serious injury during that time also as you pointed out its well engineered and built; your family and all of us in you're extended family are grateful you're on board.
Had one for 10 years and I love it. Two blade cartridge trips that were my fault. No contact with me but both times with jigs that have metal parts. Not paying attention is why I bought it in the first place. But it is a high quality powerful, and accurate saw.
The big Powermatic was always my dream table saw. A few years ago, I wound up getting a PCS with a 52" table and a nice outfeed table, and I think I have found my forever saw. I will be curious to watch this thread over time. Also, the infinity inserts are pretty nice, but they do take a little time to dial them in. I mostly just use the Dado inserts to get zero clearance. I will use a marker on the top to indicate which blade or set I used with the insert with the hope that it can be re-used.
I just bought the PCS 3HP saw with 36" fence this past December. Keep in mind, this is my first brand new tool purchase, but everything you said is spot on. From the color-coded instructions and hardware packets, to the fit and tolerances, this machine is very well designed and built. I had to run a tap through one threaded hole in the rail due to a small goober, but other than that, EVERYTHING fit perfectly. Miter slots were perfectly parallel to the blade, fence, was parallel to the blade, and even the miter gage was exactly 90 out of the box. Very impressive machine and a pleasure to use!
I'd love more information on how you attached the extrusion to your fence. I've noticed the dips and valleys on my sawstop as you mentioned. I hope you do a video on this
Great saw. I am long time follower of Wood Whisper and years ago, when the time came to buy my table saw, was ready to but a PM. Last minute changed my mind and got a Sawstop for the safety feature. I do not use their blade guard, use the aftermarket Shark Guard, and I use it just about all the time. Their rail is very good. The table was easy to align and has stayed aligned. The only issue I ever had was a piece of metal tape I didn't notice on a board once set off the blade stop and it was an expensive lesson to learn.
Can you speak about your experiences with the SawStop blade guard versus the SharkGuard. I just bought the SawStop, but I have a leftover Shark Guard. I could pay a few bucks to convert the shark to the new saw, but I'm wondering if I should bother.
Marc, congrats on the purchase! I have the 5HP ICS, and it is an absolute monster. The rails are 1/4" thick, and in some places it looks like they added mass just for the sake of adding mass. That said, I've had mine for 4 years and really really enjoyed it. I haven't had any nuisance trips, and the saw has run smoothly and issue free since I got it. I think you'll be happy with the purchase. One thing you may consider adding is a caster on the bottom of the fence to ride on the rear rail. It's already a smooth fence, but the caster keeps it from sliding across the top and makes it really really nice.
I love my Sawstop PCS. I have the same model and configuration you purchased, Marc. As a musician and engineer/programmer, losing even a bit of a finger would be devastating to my source of income and life-long love of playing music. I just put the Sawstop cast iron router table on the left side recently. It's pretty long now, but still works in my 1 car garage-turned-woodshop.
I've had the 3HP PCS 220V 52" table for several years now and it's great. It is my 4th table saw and the only one that I have ever kept the blade guard on. Ironic, huh, since the others didn't have any safety features! I activated the brake once with my Incra Mitre and I was completely surprised by the instantaneous reaction of the saw. Wow! I couldn't find a single scratch mark on the mitre. As for dust collection, it's the best. I did however, upgrade to the Overarm Dust Collection recently because I got tired of exchanging the riving knife and blade guard whenever I wanted to make through and non-through cuts. You're gonna love it!
Enjoy your channel, full of good stuff. I recently replaced my 25 year old Chinese 12"saw 52" rails + large sliding table (worn out) with the Industrial SawStop. The method of removing the table insert, changing the riving knife, the dust collection power of the blade guard are the main features that sold me on SawStop. The Blade arresting system was a bonus. I'm a member of 2 woodworking clubs & have access to 4 different table saws & have been using table saws for 50-60 years so I know what I need & what I want. I'm a little upset that they don't produce a `12" version, but I replaced the drop saw with a 12" one. 99% of the time it's all OK. Very happy with my decision. Oh, I got the small sliding table & fixed it to the left table wing. I'd probably have been better off with an Incra miter gauge.
A trick on the engine hoist is to loosen the pressure release that is used to lower the hoist, lift up on the hoist arm to where you want it just about and then retighten the pressure release. It “should” stay around that area when you let go of the hoist arm and save you about 9000 pumps of the handle +\- 1-2 pumps :)
I just setup that exact model in my shop 2 weeks ago. Upgrading from a contractor saw, the difference is amazing. The safety feature is just gravy on top. It also amuses me my saw now has to boot to standby before I can use it.
The simple way to take the slop out of the fence when setting a measurement is to pull the handle toward you while sliding the fence. Then when you lock it down, it doesn’t change the angle. I’ve done this for years, even with my old Biesemeyer. I may have seen the tip on Norm’s “New Yankee Workshop” back in the day.
I had a saw stop for a boat 6 years. I also at the same time bought a panel saw. So I didnt use the sawstop as much anymore. My biggest issue was the power. It was 3 HP but would constantly shut off when under load like 8/4 stock. For this reason I sold it and bought an older general 3 HP. I miss the safety aspects but I need the ability to run heavy stock all day long if I had to.
Going on 6 years with my saw stop, it has been one of my best wood shop investments! My wife is an OT who treats about 2 -3 woodworkers a year that have lost fingers on a non-saw top table saw.
I have the SawStop Model PCS175 and I love it. The Folding Outfeed Table has been a great accessory. My next upgrade will be the Floating Overarm Dust Collection because the Overarm Dust Collection blade guard's dust port is so small it clogs easily and is difficult to unclog. That happens mostly when I'm trimming a board and have a small thickness offcuts. These offcuts sometimes break off and gets sucked into the blade guard and they are stuck.
Just sold my powermatic 66 with 31” fence that I bought new in 2000 and replaced it with a saw stop pro 36”. First off the 31” fence drove me insane. If you buy a table saw go at least 36”. Second, the saw stop is such a smoother saw. Wish I would not have waited so long to add safety to my job
Thank you for your honest opinion.. I have loved the idea that these saws are.. I have a friend that nearly lost 3 fingers on a table saw and it scared the crap out of me... Thanx for the video..
A few days ago my SawStop break cartridge saved my right hand finger. I'm a luthier and playing guitar is my main passion, losing a finger would be catastrophic to my wellbeing, that's why I bought the SawStop. Still, I pretended like this safety feature didn't exist with this saw and have always been extremely careful. Well, I guess I wasn't careful enough. It didn't happen when I was pushing wood through, but when I was removing the cut wood. There was a loud bang and I felt the slightest pressure on my finger, the blade was nowhere in sight. I looked at my pinky and saw a very slight abrasion, almost not noticeable. I am so glad I bought this saw.
I can attest the ICS saw has an amazingly easy adjustment system as the PCS, it has a table pivot point in the front and two bolts in the back to push the table in each direction. Works perfectly, I’ve even been able to take the table off and put it back without needing adjustment. Really cool.
Nice review. I will be ordering a Saw Stop for one of my shops. In my home shop, I have a recent model Delta 36-725T2. I find it interesting that one of the features you pointed out that you haven't seen much if ever, is a second viewfinder for measuring on the left side of the blade. Oddly enough, my cheap $600 saw has that. I don't use it much either, but it's there. For the budget minded, I really recommend the Delta. It's been a good saw for the money for the last two years.
Great video and tips. I've had my Pro SawStop w/52" fence for 11yrs and actually was motivated to buy after having a thumb tip nip mishap on a Ridgid contractor saw. I notice your newer saw blade stops very fast. Mine tends to coast for a while and after doing a refresher on the safety manual, I read that if you do touch the blade even while coasting to a stop, it'll trigger the brake. I've actually finally installed the dado stack for first time recently since I didn't want to dink with the brake before but its pretty easy to swap out after all. Normally I'd use the router table or shaper for rabbets and dadoes but now giving bigger tasks to the saw after getting back into Woodworking much more aggressively now after a nearly 6yr hiatus due to lack of nice garage. (pole shed seasonal indoor rain -- central wisc weather). Anyhow hoping you'll expand more on the capabilities of the saw stop and after market upgrades. Not that my wallet needs to take a bigger hit but a lot of the tools you use and I've also purchased recently sure make woodworking life easier and I'm all about making most efficient use of time in the shop.
8:02 One of the first upgrades I got for my old Delta were In-line Industries' PALS. It's a similar set up, where your able to bolt on L brackets and micro-adjust your trunnion into alignment.
I purchased a 36” PCS 1.3/4 HP roughly a year ago. I wanted the 3 HP, didn’t want to wait. I did all the assembly myself, no help. I’m 5’11” and 160lbs. After setting and using the saw for about a month, I noticed the motor had wiring for 240 on the label. I decided to call SawStop support. Guess what, the 1 3/4 HP can be converted to 240V with an $75/$85 connector dox. How fast can I get it!!! Went to big box store purchased the new power cord and a twist lock 240V connector. Installed all the parts and , been working great!! I find the 34 1/4” is not something my back likes. I have made a 1 3/4” 3/16 wall square tubing to raise the saw to standard counter top height. Inside the hydraulic castors. I had to modify the length on light weight legs. LOVE THE SAW!!!
I have had my SawStop for over 10 years ( not sure exactly when I bought it ). I have had one accidental brake incident, and it was my fault. I did not adjust the clearance after putting in the dado stack. But, it has been rock solit. and other than replacing the fence faces due to the rubber top peeling off, I have done no maintenance at all. Only adjusted the top after a move from AZ to TX. The plastic center knob on the adjustment wheels has never been an issue. I have the 3hp motor, and it cuts even 3 in hard maple with no issues. So I am happy. Really like your review, and interested to see your enhancements video.
I went with the exact same saw recently. Well, almost exact....I ordered the 30" version and upgraded to an Incra fence so I have more capacity than I could ever need. Zero regrets with any of it...it is without a doubt the central hub of my woodshop and has made my hobby so much more enjoyable. I upgraded from a SS Jobsite...also a great piece of gear that I plan to hold on to.
I have a tiny shop (9'x13' outside dimensions), so I bought a SawStop JobSite Pro table saw. It was pretty much the only SawStop saw that would fit in my shop. That said, I love it. For a jobsite saw, it's been plenty accurate enough for everything I've made. The fence works great; although, it is a little hard to get it dead on when I'm trying to make tiny adjustments. It doesn't have a cast iron top, which is a bit of a limitation sometimes, but the top is dead flat, and it cut accurately from the beginning - no adjustments needed. It's easily portable, so I can fold it up and roll it out of the way when I need to. In my opinion, it's easily the best quality jobsite saw you can buy, and best of all, I don't have to worry as much about getting a serious injury from the saw. You pay a premium, for sure, but for me it's worth every penny extra.
Thanks for the great review. I got my ICS 10+ years ago used. a couple of notes: * ICS is left tilt blade, so the dust clear out door is on the right, under the ext table * PCS is a right tilt blade, door on left I think door on left is more convenient, easier to get to, no need to crawl under the table AND if you want build a cabinet under the ext table - you can ;-) Something else to consider is - do you ever want to get the Sawstop Router Table setup gizmo. Its expensive but in a small space might be worth it. It is generally pictured on the right as part of the extension table. Haven't determined if it can go on the left side. If you get one please do another video. BTW: I have no opinion about right vs left tilt. My comment is solely about where the big metal box/door is under the saw
I bought the same saw about a year ago and I love it!!! I eventually built a cabinet for underneath the right side of the saw and removed the skinny legs.
You made the right call on the PCS! My ICS was delivered in November and was, honestly, a nightmare. After three months of issues with the arbor and table and trying to get it fixed I finally gave up. They offered to send me a new ICS, but said it would likely have warranty issues as well. I had it returned instead. I ended up ordering a slider to replace it which should show up later today!
I’m an ICS 52” driver. Life begins at 5hp ;-) . Bought mine used over 10 years ago, otherwise I would have purchased a PCS 36”. Neither machine is a dud, both will last a lifetime. Mine has never required a re calibration.
I worked as a cut out man at a large production cabinet shop. I watched a dude cut off all his fingers on his right hand. He was cutting a piece of 1/8th" cabinet backer board. It was grizzly. A saw always makes a weird sound when kick back is about to happen. His hand was just a macabre pile of cut and shattered bone. I own a SawStop Industrial saw. It is an older model and my table extension has only one leg and not two. I've worn out the plastic glide on the forward bottom of my fence. I use that tool more than any tool in my shop. It was well worth the money. I only use the riving knife and without the dust collecting guard combined with the fact that I use a shop vac for dust collection, the dust is atrocious. Freud blades don't work with the standard riving knife. The knife is taller than the blade making non-through cuts problematic. I do wish lubing and greasing all the areas that need it was easier because I am getting older and it's getting harder to do all the gymnastics needed to reach those specific points.
May be late to the game with SawStop, but I trust your information over anyone else I have seen on youtube, so thank you for the review and information, it is greatly appreciated.
Great review Marc! I love my SawStop! It's perfect or dang near it! I have purchased major tools from Delta, Jet, PowerMatic, Rikon and even Laguna and had some kind of problem with them all. I have even returned 2 tools from 2 of these manufactures. Then there is SawStop. Fantastic saw, company and support guys. They actually answer the phone when you call and I have never gotten anything but 100% correct answers.
2:22 thanks for the sound logic behind picking 36 inch over 52. I went back and forth over this when I bought my saw (has not been shipped to me yet) and settled on 36 inch, too. Until now I kept doubting my decision.
I got a PM2000 with 52" capacity about 15 years ago and I don't think the fence has been anywhere near the end of the rail since I assembled the saw. Usually wind up with bowl blanks or segmented rings stacked up over there.
Ordered my ICS back in June of 2021. Picked it up 5 months later, Unfortunately mine came had the recalled arbor and am still waiting on a replacement Arbor from Sawstop in the mean time they sent me a couple version 3 brake cartridges and one version 3 dado cartridge. Id do it all over again if I had to. The ICS is ultra premium!
Used to work with a 7-1/2HP Dewalt Radial. The mechanical blade brake also gave us a lot of malfunctions. But then we discovered an all-electronic blade brake. Even with the big motor and a 22" Carbide blade we could stop it in under a second. But we had to ease off that a bit. Very fast stops would loosen the arbor nut (obviously not a good thing) About a second and a half was optimal.
Awesome upgrade and you will not be disappointed with the SawStop and the Colliflower insert. Same set up I've had on mine for years and well worth it.
I looked at Saw Stop before I bought my PM2000. There were too many cons on the Saw Stop for me to buy it. Everything on the PM2000 was dead on, I had to make no alignments. I bought the 30 inch and modified it so I can rip up to 38 inches. Also I put a short rule on the left side of the fence rail like the Saw Stop has (did that before I knew they had it). The built in mobile base on my saw works great, it has a lever that you pump 10 times and its up and rolling around. It also has a DRO for the blade angle, which works great and the fence on mine doesn't do that shift when locking it down, like the Biesemeyer fence I had on my previous saw. Your video in 2016 was another reason I bought the PM2000, my world has now been turn upside down now with this news you bought a Saw Stop.
Welcome to the fold. I am sure you are not missing anything changing to Sawstop. I loved the video, but I wished you would have mentioned the Sawstop technical group. I have never seen an after sale service group that can match them. They are fantastic. No matter what problem you are having, they will walk you through it over the phone and get you back on track. An absolutely awesome group of experts will answer your call (immediately) and get you back running again. These are not people following a flow chart to answer you, they actually know what they are talking about. Brings me to point number 2. Should of explained how the brake system saves fingers. In my 40 years of woodworking, I finally made a mistake. Kick back caused one of my fingers to engage the saw blade. The blade disappeared below the table so fast I was left with only a small red line on the finger in question. It did not even bleed. It was less than a paper cut. I will never ever, ever, ever give up my Sawstop saw. I have the 52in 3hp pcs with the sliding miter on one side and the router table on the other. You were always at the top of my list for people I watch on youtube. You just went to number #1. Powermatic doesn't deserve you. Their loss, Sawstop's gain.
I have a sawstop jobsite and a Dewalt 10” jobsite. I also have a Delta unisaw from the 60’s. I also have a Felder K915 slider. I love all the saws! I just don’t trust that safety thing and I often use dado blades. The convenience of not having that cartridge is nice. I’m honestly thinking about selling the Sawstop and getting a Pm1000 to go in my garage. I have 3 shops in 3 locations. One is 20 miles away with my Felder and big Oliver jointer and stuff like that. My garage is centered around 3 mfts with a track saw as the center of my shop. I am building kitchen cabinets and the track saw gets used more than the TS
You've got to check out the woodpeckers rip-flip fence stop system. Since you love microadjusting fences, it gives the sawstop fence the ability for miroadjusting. A must have once you try it out.
Thanks for making this video Marc, I was a PM fanboy as well, largely because of you. I only recently paid any attention to SawStop, and it was that people saying they would buy it without the braking technology. Your decision, put me over the edge.
Something I discovered with wet wood if your wondering if it will set of the breaker is before starting the saw touch it to the blade and is the ready light flashes that is and indicator that it is going to trip and your should lock the break out for that cut
You need to do an actual cut in bypass mode to be sure. The system is much less sensitive prior to operation than when the saw is running, plus the inside of the board could have a higher moisture content than the outside
Agree that plunge/track saws render obsolete the 52 inch fence as a table top junk collector and space taker upper. I have a 52 that doubles as router table but when space is a premium the 32 inch fence is plenty!
I was looking at that too, David. I actually was really close to purchasing it when I first got the saw and then sort of forgot about it. But I do cut a fair bit of stock with very thin offcuts that occasionally get sucked in between the blade and the insert and that’s no bueno.
I actually went with the Colliflower version, which look to be pretty much the same exact thing. So far so good, but I'm only two projects in on this thing so we'll see.
I bought one of those early on - I like it, but changing inserts after the first winter with it is difficult.If the metal is too cold, I have to take it inside and warm it up so that I can get the insert out. I also don't like that their inserts aren't really friendly to make your own - I'm not entirely sure what I can use to get that angled cut.
@@woodwhisperer Same here. I've had mine for a couple of years now and still love it. One of the nicer things is that the inserts are so cheap I can make a variety of dedicated setups for very little money.
I bought a sawstop for the safety feature as well. As a novice woodworker I can't compare the saw to other saws, but I like the fit and finish of the machine as well.
I had considered a SawStop two years ago, and I was looking at something I could move around since I do my work in a 2 car garage. I was looking and considering it and I had a friend buy their contractor saw for his business. He cuts all kinds of stuff all day and between him and his men, they set it off once a week or more. Wet wood has been the biggest issue with his work. He eventually went back to some Dewalt stuff and mainly uses the Sawstop when they get a big job. I opted for something else since I have used my current Grizzly for over 30 years without a mishap. I know they can happen but I am very careful. I had a woodworker friend ask me how I had hands with so few scars after all this time and I told him that I always get my son to push the wood through my table saw just in case. (kidding). Great review. Let us know how it goes and if you manage to trip it. I will say the demonstration with the hotdog that Sawstop put out is impressive.
Good video as always. I bought my Powermatic PM2000 back when Sawstop was first becoming available. A friend of mine who worked at a woodworking store liked the Sawstop, had done demonstrations with the Sawstop and bought one for his own Woodshop. But the number of accidental activations he had, due to the moisture content of the wood, etc, turned me off of the Sawstop. And I was concerned about the trunnion/saw durability and the cost of new blades and cartridges. Knowing what I know now about the Sawstop, I probably would have bought the Sawstop. I like my Powermatic just fine and it does everything I ask of it. And knock on wood, hopefully I never regret getting a saw without the flesh sensing technology. When I got my PM2000 tablesaw I got the bigger motor with the 30 something inch table with router lift as my shop was in a 2 car garage. But I also bought the 52”? Extension table with router plate cut out and rails be cause I had plans to build a detached workshop and put the larger extension on it as I make a lot of dental molding in long lengths. Still haven’t built my detached workshop yet though due to an injury at work. It was a car accident where someone ran a red light and t-boned my right front door and significantly damaged my back and neck. I had to take a medical retirement and never got the shop built. I guess it could have been worse… 😊
Good call. I am SOOOOO happy for you and your assistant. I moved over to my first safety saw about 5 years ago, a SawStop. It already saved the fingers/hand of one of our employees. Because of that abject lesson, we added a Kappa 550 sliding table saw. Both are beyond essential parts of our studio now. SawStop is an amazing value.
I've found all kinds of benefits to the Sawstop vs my old crapman.. First I still have the remaining parts of my index finger after switching over. (kind of nice to not bleed painfully) I have a 52" PCS , but now kind of wish I had stuck with a 36"..Oh well..It gives me extra places for even more crap! I did note that the blade to miter slot adjustment was dead on from day one. Never needed an adjustment, but I am equipped to do that when the time comes. I run my PCS on a dedicated 20 amp circuit instead of 220 and have had no issues cutting through 3" of both solid walnut and hard maple, but I do try to avoid cheap blades. My OEM Sawstop blade was a victim of the only brake incident when I inadvertently touched the blade with a metal tape measure. Both the blade as well as the brake became displays of what not to do. I was never sold on the OEM blade anyway. I really have no idea why a manufacturer of a $3000 saw would include a $40 blade, but oh well..
Little late to comment. But hearing your input on the compromises - I bought this saw as the first full saw I got, and I'm perfectly comfortable with all the obvious compromises you saw as I'm a hobbiest.
That is so true, i didn't even think about it. i bought the extended table and I also break down with a track saw. I never do a full sheet on the table saw. Smart. but it is a good place to collect junk as you say.
I have the exact same saw (for a few months). Love it! I came from a contractor saw, so massive upgrade for me. I picked it up because my boys told me they wanted to do some woodworking projects with me in the garage (among other reasons).
When I was planning to upgrade from my jobsite table saw, I learned all about the SawStop safety feature. It was pretty much all I heard about the SawStop. After hearing a salesman spend a lot of time talking about the safety feature, I kind of lost it and said, "I get it! But my primary purpose of buying a table saw is not to cut myself; instead, I'm buying it to accurately and consistenly cut wood! I wanted to know the main difference between a SawStop and a similar Powermatic saw. The surface things I could see (metal lock knobs and an overall perception of Powermatic being a bit more 'stout.' But then I finally heard something that rang with me: SawStop is designed so that if the safety feature is ever activated, the cartridge can be replaced and you can resume use. What that meant to me was a very strong (read, "stable") and robust trunnion and everything else that gets the incredible "hit" when things come to a literal crashing stop in milliseconds. The fact of being able to get a saw back up and running after this extreme physics event is what sold me on SawStop. Maybe Powermatic is just as robust; I've never owned one. But I can say I have been very pleased with SawStop accuracy and consistency. On one other note: A woodworking friend of mine told me if it was at all possible and if I could afford it, the 3hp version is well worth the money. I followed his advice and I can say it was well worth the money. It is the first table saw I've ever had that runs off 240v, but the horsepower is incredible. I have not yet found any material, either in composition or heft that drags it down!
This is true. This first prototypes required the saw be sent back for checking and alignment after an activation. They realized this would be a deal killer due to downtime and would piss off users. So instead they went back to the drawing board and beefed up the whole trunion mechanism to withstand repeated activations.
Mark, you reminded me that I could adjust the play in the rip fence, which I did. But afterward I couldn't clamp the fence in position. I called SS tech support and they told me to reverse the adjustment, and to pull the locking lever away from the saw when fine tuning the position (to seat the two pads). I loved getting rid of the slop, but disappointed that there wasn't a separate adjustment for the locking lever.
It’s a pity that Saw Stop sued Bosch and stopped them from selling their job site saw with their version of a safety brake, it might have saved a few more fingers!
I have to say I appreciate your commitment to using your blade guard as much as possible. Almost every table saw accident I have ever heard of could have been prevented with a blade guard. The more they see UA-camrs using their guards, the more folks will come to realize they are worth the hassle and it is a fallacy to think you can not work effectively with one in place for most cuts. HOWEVER- Table saw manufacturers also have to step up their game and make sturdy guards that are easier to remove and replace without tools, as SawStop and other premium brands have. I can't blame someone for leaving his guard off if it's a flimsy piece of crap or if it takes ten minutes and three Allen wrenches to put it back on..... I have four saws in my shop and three of them are SawStops. I have their ICS, their contractor's saw and their jobsite saw. As someone with a lot of experience with their entire line I can say I have never been disappointed in their saws. And I use my guards for 95% of my cuts.
That matches my experience. My PCS is the third table saw I have owned, but is the first one that I use the blade guard as much as I can. On the earlier saws, I removed the guard and never put it back on.
So the issue I have had with guards is that the boards get stuck. I have had it happen, even on the sawstop. And I hate that. And end up taking them offf.
@@Monuments_to_Good_Intentions if they are getting stuck, are you sure they are properly adjusted? The riving knife should be in line with the body of the blade and not the edge of the teeth. You also want to ensure your trunnion is aligned, this is often an issue on newer saws. The riving knife or splitter should never be restricting movement
@@Monuments_to_Good_Intentions How did your board get stuck with the SawStop guard? Which guard? The dust collection guard like Marc shows in this video, or the simpler flip-guard? Was it the anti-kickback pawls that caused the catch? (I hate those and always lock them in the upward position).
Actually "Almost every table saw accident I have ever heard of could have been prevented with..." learning and always using proper table saw habits/techniques.
One more thing. Note to all sawstop owners. If you are cutting pitchy wood such as pine, YOU MUST CLEAN THE BLADE REGULARLY. I found this out the easy way. Had been cutting pine and was showing a friend how the saw senses your skin. With the saw off you can touch the side of the blade and watch the red light go off. It didn't. Changed the blade and it was fine.
Yeah, good pointer there.
New to woodworking, bought a sawstop a little over a year ago. Absolutely love it. Looking forward to a how to for that fence upgrade. Never even thought of seeing if I could change that. Still so many things to learn..
You do have to spend some time setting the saw up... blade, fence, etc. But once done, the saw is great. Fairly compact which is Nice ua-cam.com/users/postUgkxXh-4_3-ZT1fFWP91ZV7iVqzElr0lEb-a I did get an Incra Miter Gauge which takes some setup as well. The stock miter gauge can be adjusted in the miter slot with a little painter's tape... this tightens up the side to side play a lot.
Hey Mark I'm a woodworker of over 40 years and 6 years ago I got the Sawstop because I got my thumb for the second time with my craftsman contractors saw. Since owning my Sawstop I have had 3 activations (not proud moments) but only one was a flesh contact and the other two were should I say a dumb moments. At this point in my life I'm glad I have it and I know you were used to the Powermatic saw where I came from the other end of the spectrum so it is tons better than the Craftsman. I'm hoping I can figure out that I need to think things thru a little better so I don't set it off again. Anyway I really enjoy using my saw even though I'm a little gun shy at the moment.
CONTACT THE NUMBER ABOVE FOR INTERACTION ON CLAIMING YOUR PARCEL
^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^🎁
I have had my PCS for almost 10 years ... consider it one of the best woodworking investments I have made. It was dead-on accurate out of the crate, and has never given me a single problem (well, there was that one accidental activation when I let my aluminum miter gauge get too close to the blade!).
Except for the fact I've had my PCS for 5 years - exact same comment. I'm just a retired engineer who does some woodworking as a hobby, but can afford to spend for some high end toys now and then, and picked this one. When cutting with my incra HD miter set to a very sharp angle, touched the blade and bang. Didn't even leave a mark on the miter, though the Freud premier fusion blade was toast.
@@cctknight84 I popped the brake on my very first cut ever because I did not readjust my 1000HD. It's preserved forever as my wife wanted to 'document' the first cut on my most expensive purchase. Premiere Fusion as well.
@@grantman1148 lol, oh no, memorialized forever!! I will say, after 30 years of using a Craftsman belt drive contractor saw, my first cuts with a 3 hp Sawstop were quite the revelation. My next upgrade will be to my dust collection system - to call what I now have a system is probably quite the exaggeration.
My multiple activations were all related to the miter gauge. Train yourself to carefully check when either the saw blade and/or miter gauge are not longer in the 90 deg position.
@@benblackwell44 Multiple activations? lol, once was all it took for me. (and now I've probably jinxed myself!)
Don’t need any more places to collect crap. Pans to the jointer covered in crap 👏👏
LOL
Spot on about injuries. My only ER trip as an adult occurred when I was working tired (strike 1), then reached across the blade after shutting off the saw to remove an offcut (strike 2 and strike 3). It wasn't that serious but I'm so glad you brought it up. The blade guard would have saved me too, but like you also mention, I didn't have it on the saw at the time.
As an ex Health and Safety Guy ... Term that escapes most is "Zero Energy State" .... "off" Seldom means free of Danger. Super Glad you brought this up!
Marc, I used to work for Woodcraft. I’ve owned my PCS for 3.5 years. At Woodcraft we sold SawStop 10-1 over Powermatic and Jet. When I left Woodcraft 2 years ago, a new PM2000 was $350 more than a PCS 3 hp 36”. I’m happy you have your new saw. Some day your kids will want to use the saw. It’s nice to know they will be protected from harm. Nice transparent review as usual. Thanks.
Congradulations. I bought a SawStop 3 years ago after 25 years with a big, 3HP General. I liked the General, like the sawstop and concur with everything expressed here. Four things I don't like about the saw. The distance between the blade and the front of the saw is much shorter, forcing me to use a sled, which I find awkward, for boards wider than 10". Second the quality of the top is not what the General was; it was spotless after 25 years while the Sawstop started accumulating scratches immediately. When shaving a bit off the end of a crosscut, small pieces of wood can get stuck in the very narrow throat of the dust collector. Finally, like you I hooked my overhead dust arm up to a Fesstool extractor but found the extra hassle didn't provide enough benefit over the standard installation.
If I were buying today, I'd probably think hard about the Harvey, but don't really have any big regrets about my purchase.
I have the same saw and mobile base. It has been a great tool. I will admit my saw did not seem to be aligned as well as most claim and I was a little disappointed at first. Between the instruction manual and Sawstop's videos I was able to get my saw tuned perfectly. Being able to adjust blade alignment when tilted allowed me to get perfect cuts on some pyramid shaped newel post tops I had to make recently. I truly appreciate the thought that went into making the saw adjustable in every manner necessary to keep it in tune.
Great discussion, thank you- I’ve been thinking about saw stop for a while as my son gets older.
I've had my SS PCS for several years with no complaints. I've never had an accidental activation. I typically don't have to adjust the blade distance when I go to a dado stack, either. It's a great saw that has been worth the investment.
One thing I value is your honest opinion. You touched on points i had not heard from the other makers/influencers about the Sawstop. Thank you!
I love mine. Saved me a trip to the ER when I was ripping thin stock. Well worth the cost just because of that, as well as the dust collection for my basement shop. Congrats, you'll enjoy it!
I thought i couldn't afford a SS and had purchased an older Delta Unisaw. Last Labor Day I was doing a cove cut on the table saw and managed to take a notch out of my left index finger. After a trip to the Emergency Room and seeing a hand specialist, my finger has recovered 99 percent. I am certainly not the craftsman that Marc and others posting here are, but I am very safety conscious and have been using table saws for 45 years plus without incident. Sitting in the ER waiting room I jokingly mentioned to my wife that if I needed to upgrade to a SS. After talking about it she said let's get one, it will be cheaper than additional trips to the ER. I received the saw in September and was thoroughly impressed with the assembly instructions and the overall quality of the saw. The Unisaw was nice, but the SS is great. Good review.
Marc, welcome to SawStop. I’ve had an original PCS (now ICS) since 2007 and have enjoyed using it. If the current PCS had been available back then I would have bought one of them. Like you said, they are good for what most of us do. Your review was excellent and well done as usual. Your information on the blade guard dust collection already has me thinking that I need to change mine out. The original guard, while it’s a great guard and easy to swap out, has no dust collection. I find that I use for every cut where it’s possible to use the guard due to how easy and quick it is to exchange it with the riving knife.
Your statement that the technology add on is sort of like a tax was interesting. I’ve always considered it more like an insurance premium. Even though I have great medical insurance changing out a brake and having a blade repaired is still much less than even my medical detectable would be for a stay in the hospital. I got my saw because as soon as my wife saw the SawStop video she told me to buy one and even figured out how we could pay for one. She immediately recognized how much one could save us in the event of a table saw accident.
I’m interested in seeing your modifications so I’m looking forward to videos on them. Thanks for sharing.
Welcome to the SawStop community! I suggest you got ahead and buy both a standard cartridge and a dado cartridge. When you eventually trigger the brake, you want to be able to swap the cartridge and put a new blade in and get back to work without having to wait for a new one to be delivered or finding one at a local store. I keep one of each cartridge in my blade storage box.
I practice the same approach.
I’m really glad for you. While woodworking and creating content at the same time, it’s nice knowing you have EXTRA safety in place. I have had a SawStop for many years and it’s been a pleasure to use. I considered the Powermatic because you were using it, as also my house is full of Festool, but my wife rolled her eyes and said “GET THE HOTDOG SAW”. I am a professional Drummer and a Golf Professional, and I’m accustom to using all my fingers for both, plus not wanting to make that shameful trip to the hospital. Bonus, BLACK is my favorite color. Good luck with your SawStop
I have all kinds of reasons to want to keep my fingers, but when I started making guitars, the insane contrast of using a table saw that can injure one, and building guitars really spoke to me. I switched to a Swiss precision saw, and I just won't do anything on the saw, or use the saw to do crazy things. If it is risky I don't do it. In fact, I don't do it if it is conceivable I would be hurt. The thing is back to about 1980 ish, most US instruction was based on doing everything on the table saw. But these days, in the shops, a lot of us have today there is no reason to take risks. Say a person might have done slip joints for doors holding the pieces vertically over the blade. Today you have devices that hold those pieces, biscuits, Dominoes, mortising machines. Why take a risk doing anything that might end in disaster. On that basis SS is irrelevant.
I'm making the same switch, mostly because the footprint of the built in mobile base on the PM 2000 won't fit down my basement stairs (which is where the new home shop is) and I have no bulkhead access to the basement. I've used Sawstop saws professionally and find the quality to be on par with Powermatic, but if the PM 2000 would fit I'd surely keep it. I have to say that there are soooo many people on UA-cam talking about woodworking but you seem to be among those who really know what they are doing. Very good production quality and useful, insightful information.
When SawStop hired me I was going to get the PCS as part of my commission but they didn’t have in stock, they only had the ICS in their warehouse. It is A LOT of saw to have. I don’t regret it at all, but definitely not needed for most shops. Nice video :)
After owning the same saw and using it for a month or so my employee accidentally touched the blade while running and kicked off the safety feature. There was absolutely no harm to his finger and saw stop replaced the cartridge for free. I had to send the old one in and they checked to see if it was flesh contact that set it off then sent me a new one out pretty quickly. They’re a great company with amazing customer service.
And what did you decide to do with the blade?
@@fassst6 get it fixed. It only damaged one tooth.
That is great though how the hell did that happen. Do you drug test at all. In a worshop there are many things that can gore you, unless you just push wood through the saw all day. Nice to know the saw worked, what are you going to do about the employee?
@@HondoTrailside - I think he should cut the employee’s hand off to set an example.
I’ve run a SawStop since 2007 - saved at least two fingers! One was mine and the other my master level lead man. Worth every penny x100!
I discard the blade after a brake activation. As the SS tech explained to me, a brake activation can generate very high momentary heat which can compromise the carbide brazing on on or more teeth. Better to replace the blade than risk slinging carbide! True.
I always think the best thing they could do for tablesaw safety would be to stop the blade very quickly. You're so right about the injuries that happen when we're impatient for that blade to stop. I hope you love your saw Marc.
My understanding is this is the real reason dado stacks aren't "legal" in Europe. The actual regulation is when a saw is stopped/turned off the blade must stop spinning under a certain time (very quick). Dado stacks are heavy and prevent the motor/stopping mechanism from stopping the spinning fast enough. At least that's what I vaguely remember from a Stumpy Nubs video.
"the best thing they could do for tablesaw safety" would be to keep your fingers away from the d** blade. With a blade guard and a sliding table.
@@kykkeliky124 Life experience will ultimately reveal that normal human behavior will _always_ include human error. These things are engineered to protect us from ourselves, whether we want to recognize it or not.
@@BartonMaxwell This is correct, it's too expensive for lower-end saws in Europe to have this tech, so they just make the stacks incompatible with their arbors. But higher end consumer and all industrial saws have the ability to be tooled for dado stacks.
Yeah, I dealt with that just today…just hanging out waiting for my blade to stop lol
Back in the 1990's I had a Jet cabinet saw with 3HP. For the past 9 years I have owned the ICS SawStop, 3HP also. I have resawed 1x6 Ipe with the blade fully up and burried and did not hear any straining going on. 3hp is pleanty for any operation. No more HP needed unless you run the saw non stop all day long. I switch between a WWII and a dado set often. It takes me 30 seconds longer to make the swap including changing the brake. Adjustment is not critical as long as the brake is not too close to the blade. I had a false trigger when I forgot to adjust the brake for the yet to be sharpened dado set. Now I simply adjust by a certain amount of turns and do not measure. A little of dry lube on the pivot points on the brake help to make it slide on and off of the placement rod more easily. You will get the hang of it. Put a touch of that dry lube on the lock pin lever too.
Nice thing about cutting damp wood is that the safety feature can be easily bypassed so you can still make the cut without risking a brake activation. Takes only a few seconds and the system resets when you turn off the saw.
Awesome Video. I got my SawStop in January of this year. I accidentally activated the safety break, right after purchasing my Forrest Two woodworker blade. Uuuggghhh....! It's currently sent out for repair on the 3 teeth that got misaligned after becoming imbedded in the safety break cartridge. I was using my Swanson Metal Square on my crosscut sled.... Silly, silly , silly of me. I love the guard. You don't need to add a separate vacuum to it. It pushes the dust by the force of the air coming off the blade, along with the suction from your 4" or bigger, dust collector. And you can easily make your own Blade Dust Collection system, avoiding that $250 price tag for above table collection. Great machine. Thanks Mark.
Welcome aboard the SawStop Express, Marc~! I picked mine up in 2016 after having used my Craftsman 10" contractor saw since 1990'ish. I had an accident on that one around '98 and almost lost a finger, but came out okay. I stalked the SS Pro for several years and was wanting one, but the price was intimidating. We were in a tool store in Columbia, SC, where they carried them and after showing it to my wife, she said "I think you need one of those SawStop thingys" as we were about to leave. With that endorsement, I did an immediate about-face and took one home. I've not looked back since. Best tool purchase I've made in over 30 years of woodworking~!!
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After years of looking at sawstop, I finally bit the bullet and got a PCS. I have been very happy with the purchase.
Hey wood whisperer I think a phishing bot stole your face.
I've had my Sawstop CB-ICS for about 15 years, and love it. My addition of dedicated vacuum for blade guard was great addition. My other happiness comes from Incra TS LS. With it installed you don't need the table legs and have room for nice under table cabinet. I don't know if the current saws are different, but with mine the blade brake is still functional until the blade stops after turning the saw off.
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I have the same Saw. 3HP PCS 36”. Love it !!
Beautiful piece of equipment. Had it 5 years. No issues.
I sell Saw Stop at Woodcraft and your description was spot on.Another Saw Stop tax is when you disable the electronic package to in fact cut wet wood, you practally have to field strip the inside.Carefully wiping out all the surfaces.
Welcome to the club!
One thing to clarify - while Sawstop recommendations do limit the blades and Dado stack you can use, it's not a super burdensome list. A lot of popular blades are on the green list. The only notable blades that get nixed are a few brands have anti kickback pawls on their rip blades (looking at you Freud) and that's obnoxious ,because that's specifically black listed.
For Dado Stacks most of the popular 8 inch sets are fine.
I think this truly only pops up if you upgrade your saw and have the misfortune of having already owned black list blades. But the list of green list blades is easy enough to buy from. (+/- today's back order craziness)
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Hi Marc, great video. As a Sawstop ICS owner I can tell you the overarm guard does have one big flaw. While the dust collection is excellent, strangely the opening where the hose connects is smaller in terms of total area than the front of the guard where chips and dust are sucked up. Many times I've had little off cut pieces that are big enough to get sucked up but not big enough to go through the opening at the back. They get stuck and clog everything up and you have to stop and remove the guard and I often have to use a plumber's drain stick to fish the pieces out of there. Not fun. Also, the safety system is necessary even with the guard on. I know this from experience. I was ripping some small stock with the guard attached and when I reached over with my left hand to grab the off cut that came off, my index finger contacted the back of the spinning blade because those side wings on the guard rise and lower with the thickness of the pieces being cut. that left an opening big enough for my finger to go through. The safety system worked just like advertised, and though I had to go to the ER and get a few stitches, my finger is still attached! Best of luck with the saw.
we have 2 saw stops in our shop. They are great saws when they're new, but after a few years they are both falling apart and worn out in the exact same ways.
The blade adjustment handle is broken on both saws (height and angle adjustment, so that's 4 broken handles), the panel beside the blade to improve dust collection is broken on both saws, the cam lever to tighten the fence is worn out on both saws. both saws have had their paddle switches replaced multiple times.
In my opinion they are not robust enough for a shop environment.
@@TheWoodFly used delta and general and altendorf saws before that. I did replace a few paddle switches but none of the handles ever broke off in my hand.
I bought a Saw Stop 4 years ago and I love it. I bought the 52” and I debated on the horsepower for awhile before deciding the 1.75 hp should be enough and I haven’t regretted it. I converted it to 240v and bought a woodworker2 blade for it that made a world of difference. A builder friend brought over a rough sawn 4x12 piece of cherry for a fireplace mantel and I was able to rip it in 2 passes with the blade at full depth with no problem. One of the main reasons I bought one was because I’m 60 now and I remember how scary my Dad got working on his tablesaw in his 80’s and I figured one trip to the ER would cost more than the saw.
Marc welcome to the club, had mine nearly 10 years prior to that a Delta Unisaw, saved me 4X from serious injury during that time also as you pointed out its well engineered and built; your family and all of us in you're extended family are grateful you're on board.
Had one for 10 years and I love it. Two blade cartridge trips that were my fault. No contact with me but both times with jigs that have metal parts. Not paying attention is why I bought it in the first place. But it is a high quality powerful, and accurate saw.
The big Powermatic was always my dream table saw. A few years ago, I wound up getting a PCS with a 52" table and a nice outfeed table, and I think I have found my forever saw. I will be curious to watch this thread over time. Also, the infinity inserts are pretty nice, but they do take a little time to dial them in. I mostly just use the Dado inserts to get zero clearance. I will use a marker on the top to indicate which blade or set I used with the insert with the hope that it can be re-used.
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I just bought the PCS 3HP saw with 36" fence this past December. Keep in mind, this is my first brand new tool purchase, but everything you said is spot on. From the color-coded instructions and hardware packets, to the fit and tolerances, this machine is very well designed and built. I had to run a tap through one threaded hole in the rail due to a small goober, but other than that, EVERYTHING fit perfectly. Miter slots were perfectly parallel to the blade, fence, was parallel to the blade, and even the miter gage was exactly 90 out of the box. Very impressive machine and a pleasure to use!
I'd love more information on how you attached the extrusion to your fence. I've noticed the dips and valleys on my sawstop as you mentioned. I hope you do a video on this
Great saw. I am long time follower of Wood Whisper and years ago, when the time came to buy my table saw, was ready to but a PM. Last minute changed my mind and got a Sawstop for the safety feature. I do not use their blade guard, use the aftermarket Shark Guard, and I use it just about all the time. Their rail is very good. The table was easy to align and has stayed aligned. The only issue I ever had was a piece of metal tape I didn't notice on a board once set off the blade stop and it was an expensive lesson to learn.
Can you speak about your experiences with the SawStop blade guard versus the SharkGuard. I just bought the SawStop, but I have a leftover Shark Guard. I could pay a few bucks to convert the shark to the new saw, but I'm wondering if I should bother.
Marc, congrats on the purchase! I have the 5HP ICS, and it is an absolute monster. The rails are 1/4" thick, and in some places it looks like they added mass just for the sake of adding mass. That said, I've had mine for 4 years and really really enjoyed it. I haven't had any nuisance trips, and the saw has run smoothly and issue free since I got it. I think you'll be happy with the purchase. One thing you may consider adding is a caster on the bottom of the fence to ride on the rear rail. It's already a smooth fence, but the caster keeps it from sliding across the top and makes it really really nice.
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I love my Sawstop PCS. I have the same model and configuration you purchased, Marc. As a musician and engineer/programmer, losing even a bit of a finger would be devastating to my source of income and life-long love of playing music. I just put the Sawstop cast iron router table on the left side recently. It's pretty long now, but still works in my 1 car garage-turned-woodshop.
I've had the 3HP PCS 220V 52" table for several years now and it's great. It is my 4th table saw and the only one that I have ever kept the blade guard on. Ironic, huh, since the others didn't have any safety features! I activated the brake once with my Incra Mitre and I was completely surprised by the instantaneous reaction of the saw. Wow! I couldn't find a single scratch mark on the mitre. As for dust collection, it's the best. I did however, upgrade to the Overarm Dust Collection recently because I got tired of exchanging the riving knife and blade guard whenever I wanted to make through and non-through cuts. You're gonna love it!
Enjoy your channel, full of good stuff. I recently replaced my 25 year old Chinese 12"saw 52" rails + large sliding table (worn out) with the Industrial SawStop. The method of removing the table insert, changing the riving knife, the dust collection power of the blade guard are the main features that sold me on SawStop. The Blade arresting system was a bonus. I'm a member of 2 woodworking clubs & have access to 4 different table saws & have been using table saws for 50-60 years so I know what I need & what I want. I'm a little upset that they don't produce a `12" version, but I replaced the drop saw with a 12" one. 99% of the time it's all OK. Very happy with my decision. Oh, I got the small sliding table & fixed it to the left table wing. I'd probably have been better off with an Incra miter gauge.
A trick on the engine hoist is to loosen the pressure release that is used to lower the hoist, lift up on the hoist arm to where you want it just about and then retighten the pressure release. It “should” stay around that area when you let go of the hoist arm and save you about 9000 pumps of the handle +\- 1-2 pumps :)
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Great review. Reaching for an offcut after I turned off the saw is exactly how I injured myself a year ago and prompted my SawStop purchase.
I just setup that exact model in my shop 2 weeks ago. Upgrading from a contractor saw, the difference is amazing. The safety feature is just gravy on top. It also amuses me my saw now has to boot to standby before I can use it.
The simple way to take the slop out of the fence when setting a measurement is to pull the handle toward you while sliding the fence. Then when you lock it down, it doesn’t change the angle. I’ve done this for years, even with my old Biesemeyer. I may have seen the tip on Norm’s “New Yankee Workshop” back in the day.
yup that works, but an even better solution is to get rid of the slop in the first place if you can.
I had a saw stop for a boat 6 years. I also at the same time bought a panel saw. So I didnt use the sawstop as much anymore. My biggest issue was the power. It was 3 HP but would constantly shut off when under load like 8/4 stock. For this reason I sold it and bought an older general 3 HP. I miss the safety aspects but I need the ability to run heavy stock all day long if I had to.
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Most new saws do that I just bypassed passed the electrical shutoff now I can cut really thick material with no problem
@@texascraftsman7215 hello
Going on 6 years with my saw stop, it has been one of my best wood shop investments! My wife is an OT who treats about 2 -3 woodworkers a year that have lost fingers on a non-saw top table saw.
I have the SawStop Model PCS175 and I love it. The Folding Outfeed Table has been a great accessory. My next upgrade will be the Floating Overarm Dust Collection because the Overarm Dust Collection blade guard's dust port is so small it clogs easily and is difficult to unclog. That happens mostly when I'm trimming a board and have a small thickness offcuts. These offcuts sometimes break off and gets sucked into the blade guard and they are stuck.
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Just sold my powermatic 66 with 31” fence that I bought new in 2000 and replaced it with a saw stop pro 36”. First off the 31” fence drove me insane. If you buy a table saw go at least 36”.
Second, the saw stop is such a smoother saw. Wish I would not have waited so long to add safety to my job
Thank you for your honest opinion.. I have loved the idea that these saws are.. I have a friend that nearly lost 3 fingers on a table saw and it scared the crap out of me... Thanx for the video..
A few days ago my SawStop break cartridge saved my right hand finger. I'm a luthier and playing guitar is my main passion, losing a finger would be catastrophic to my wellbeing, that's why I bought the SawStop. Still, I pretended like this safety feature didn't exist with this saw and have always been extremely careful. Well, I guess I wasn't careful enough. It didn't happen when I was pushing wood through, but when I was removing the cut wood. There was a loud bang and I felt the slightest pressure on my finger, the blade was nowhere in sight. I looked at my pinky and saw a very slight abrasion, almost not noticeable. I am so glad I bought this saw.
I can attest the ICS saw has an amazingly easy adjustment system as the PCS, it has a table pivot point in the front and two bolts in the back to push the table in each direction. Works perfectly, I’ve even been able to take the table off and put it back without needing adjustment. Really cool.
Nice review. I will be ordering a Saw Stop for one of my shops. In my home shop, I have a recent model Delta 36-725T2. I find it interesting that one of the features you pointed out that you haven't seen much if ever, is a second viewfinder for measuring on the left side of the blade. Oddly enough, my cheap $600 saw has that. I don't use it much either, but it's there. For the budget minded, I really recommend the Delta. It's been a good saw for the money for the last two years.
Great video and tips. I've had my Pro SawStop w/52" fence for 11yrs and actually was motivated to buy after having a thumb tip nip mishap on a Ridgid contractor saw. I notice your newer saw blade stops very fast. Mine tends to coast for a while and after doing a refresher on the safety manual, I read that if you do touch the blade even while coasting to a stop, it'll trigger the brake. I've actually finally installed the dado stack for first time recently since I didn't want to dink with the brake before but its pretty easy to swap out after all. Normally I'd use the router table or shaper for rabbets and dadoes but now giving bigger tasks to the saw after getting back into Woodworking much more aggressively now after a nearly 6yr hiatus due to lack of nice garage. (pole shed seasonal indoor rain -- central wisc weather). Anyhow hoping you'll expand more on the capabilities of the saw stop and after market upgrades. Not that my wallet needs to take a bigger hit but a lot of the tools you use and I've also purchased recently sure make woodworking life easier and I'm all about making most efficient use of time in the shop.
8:02 One of the first upgrades I got for my old Delta were In-line Industries' PALS. It's a similar set up, where your able to bolt on L brackets and micro-adjust your trunnion into alignment.
Beat me to it. The BEST extra few bucks EVER on my old Delta.
I purchased a 36” PCS 1.3/4 HP roughly a year ago. I wanted the 3 HP, didn’t want to wait. I did all the assembly myself, no help. I’m 5’11” and 160lbs. After setting and using the saw for about a month, I noticed the motor had wiring for 240 on the label. I decided to call SawStop support. Guess what, the 1 3/4 HP can be converted to 240V with an $75/$85 connector dox. How fast can I get it!!! Went to big box store purchased the new power cord and a twist lock 240V connector. Installed all the parts and , been working great!! I find the 34 1/4” is not something my back likes. I have made a 1 3/4” 3/16 wall square tubing to raise the saw to standard counter top height. Inside the hydraulic castors. I had to modify the length on light weight legs.
LOVE THE SAW!!!
I have had my SawStop for over 10 years ( not sure exactly when I bought it ). I have had one accidental brake incident, and it was my fault. I did not adjust the clearance after putting in the dado stack. But, it has been rock solit. and other than replacing the fence faces due to the rubber top peeling off, I have done no maintenance at all. Only adjusted the top after a move from AZ to TX. The plastic center knob on the adjustment wheels has never been an issue. I have the 3hp motor, and it cuts even 3 in hard maple with no issues. So I am happy. Really like your review, and interested to see your enhancements video.
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I went with the exact same saw recently. Well, almost exact....I ordered the 30" version and upgraded to an Incra fence so I have more capacity than I could ever need. Zero regrets with any of it...it is without a doubt the central hub of my woodshop and has made my hobby so much more enjoyable. I upgraded from a SS Jobsite...also a great piece of gear that I plan to hold on to.
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I have a tiny shop (9'x13' outside dimensions), so I bought a SawStop JobSite Pro table saw. It was pretty much the only SawStop saw that would fit in my shop. That said, I love it. For a jobsite saw, it's been plenty accurate enough for everything I've made. The fence works great; although, it is a little hard to get it dead on when I'm trying to make tiny adjustments. It doesn't have a cast iron top, which is a bit of a limitation sometimes, but the top is dead flat, and it cut accurately from the beginning - no adjustments needed. It's easily portable, so I can fold it up and roll it out of the way when I need to. In my opinion, it's easily the best quality jobsite saw you can buy, and best of all, I don't have to worry as much about getting a serious injury from the saw. You pay a premium, for sure, but for me it's worth every penny extra.
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Thanks for the great review. I got my ICS 10+ years ago used. a couple of notes:
* ICS is left tilt blade, so the dust clear out door is on the right, under the ext table
* PCS is a right tilt blade, door on left
I think door on left is more convenient, easier to get to, no need to crawl under the table AND if you want build a cabinet under the ext table - you can ;-)
Something else to consider is - do you ever want to get the Sawstop Router Table setup gizmo. Its expensive but in a small space might be worth it. It is generally pictured on the right as part of the extension table. Haven't determined if it can go on the left side.
If you get one please do another video.
BTW: I have no opinion about right vs left tilt. My comment is solely about where the big metal box/door is under the saw
I bought the same saw about a year ago and I love it!!! I eventually built a cabinet for underneath the right side of the saw and removed the skinny legs.
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You made the right call on the PCS! My ICS was delivered in November and was, honestly, a nightmare. After three months of issues with the arbor and table and trying to get it fixed I finally gave up. They offered to send me a new ICS, but said it would likely have warranty issues as well. I had it returned instead. I ended up ordering a slider to replace it which should show up later today!
I’m an ICS 52” driver. Life begins at 5hp ;-) . Bought mine used over 10 years ago, otherwise I would have purchased a PCS 36”. Neither machine is a dud, both will last a lifetime. Mine has never required a re calibration.
I worked as a cut out man at a large production cabinet shop. I watched a dude cut off all his fingers on his right hand. He was cutting a piece of 1/8th" cabinet backer board. It was grizzly. A saw always makes a weird sound when kick back is about to happen. His hand was just a macabre pile of cut and shattered bone. I own a SawStop Industrial saw. It is an older model and my table extension has only one leg and not two. I've worn out the plastic glide on the forward bottom of my fence. I use that tool more than any tool in my shop. It was well worth the money. I only use the riving knife and without the dust collecting guard combined with the fact that I use a shop vac for dust collection, the dust is atrocious. Freud blades don't work with the standard riving knife. The knife is taller than the blade making non-through cuts problematic. I do wish lubing and greasing all the areas that need it was easier because I am getting older and it's getting harder to do all the gymnastics needed to reach those specific points.
May be late to the game with SawStop, but I trust your information over anyone else I have seen on youtube, so thank you for the review and information, it is greatly appreciated.
Great review Marc! I love my SawStop! It's perfect or dang near it!
I have purchased major tools from Delta, Jet, PowerMatic, Rikon and even Laguna and had some kind of problem with them all. I have even returned 2 tools from 2 of these manufactures.
Then there is SawStop. Fantastic saw, company and support guys. They actually answer the phone when you call and I have never gotten anything but 100% correct answers.
2:22 thanks for the sound logic behind picking 36 inch over 52. I went back and forth over this when I bought my saw (has not been shipped to me yet) and settled on 36 inch, too. Until now I kept doubting my decision.
I got a PM2000 with 52" capacity about 15 years ago and I don't think the fence has been anywhere near the end of the rail since I assembled the saw. Usually wind up with bowl blanks or segmented rings stacked up over there.
Ordered my ICS back in June of 2021. Picked it up 5 months later, Unfortunately mine came had the recalled arbor and am still waiting on a replacement Arbor from Sawstop in the mean time they sent me a couple version 3 brake cartridges and one version 3 dado cartridge. Id do it all over again if I had to. The ICS is ultra premium!
Used to work with a 7-1/2HP Dewalt Radial. The mechanical blade brake also gave us a lot of malfunctions. But then we discovered an all-electronic blade brake. Even with the big motor and a 22" Carbide blade we could stop it in under a second. But we had to ease off that a bit. Very fast stops would loosen the arbor nut (obviously not a good thing) About a second and a half was optimal.
Def the best assembly manual (and the blister style nut packaging!) I've worked with. Glad you can have the safety.
Awesome upgrade and you will not be disappointed with the SawStop and the Colliflower insert. Same set up I've had on mine for years and well worth it.
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I looked at Saw Stop before I bought my PM2000. There were too many cons on the Saw Stop for me to buy it. Everything on the PM2000 was dead on, I had to make no alignments. I bought the 30 inch and modified it so I can rip up to 38 inches. Also I put a short rule on the left side of the fence rail like the Saw Stop has (did that before I knew they had it). The built in mobile base on my saw works great, it has a lever that you pump 10 times and its up and rolling around. It also has a DRO for the blade angle, which works great and the fence on mine doesn't do that shift when locking it down, like the Biesemeyer fence I had on my previous saw. Your video in 2016 was another reason I bought the PM2000, my world has now been turn upside down now with this news you bought a Saw Stop.
Welcome to the fold. I am sure you are not missing anything changing to Sawstop. I loved the video, but I wished you would have mentioned the Sawstop technical group. I have never seen an after sale service group that can match them. They are fantastic. No matter what problem you are having, they will walk you through it over the phone and get you back on track. An absolutely awesome group of experts will answer your call (immediately) and get you back running again. These are not people following a flow chart to answer you, they actually know what they are talking about.
Brings me to point number 2. Should of explained how the brake system saves fingers. In my 40 years of woodworking, I finally made a mistake. Kick back caused one of my fingers to engage the saw blade. The blade disappeared below the table so fast I was left with only a small red line on the finger in question. It did not even bleed. It was less than a paper cut.
I will never ever, ever, ever give up my Sawstop saw. I have the 52in 3hp pcs with the sliding miter on one side and the router table on the other. You were always at the top of my list for people I watch on youtube. You just went to number #1. Powermatic doesn't deserve you. Their loss, Sawstop's gain.
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Nice overview. I believe the ics table is bigger. I was lucky enough to get a 52" ics from auction... definitely overkill for me but I love it.
I have a sawstop jobsite and a Dewalt 10” jobsite. I also have a Delta unisaw from the 60’s. I also have a Felder K915 slider.
I love all the saws! I just don’t trust that safety thing and I often use dado blades. The convenience of not having that cartridge is nice. I’m honestly thinking about selling the Sawstop and getting a Pm1000 to go in my garage. I have 3 shops in 3 locations. One is 20 miles away with my Felder and big Oliver jointer and stuff like that. My garage is centered around 3 mfts with a track saw as the center of my shop. I am building kitchen cabinets and the track saw gets used more than the TS
You've got to check out the woodpeckers rip-flip fence stop system. Since you love microadjusting fences, it gives the sawstop fence the ability for miroadjusting. A must have once you try it out.
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I just started a new job and with my big pay raise a Sawstop is going to be my first shop purchase. CANT WAIT!!
Thanks for making this video Marc, I was a PM fanboy as well, largely because of you. I only recently paid any attention to SawStop, and it was that people saying they would buy it without the braking technology. Your decision, put me over the edge.
Something I discovered with wet wood if your wondering if it will set of the breaker is before starting the saw touch it to the blade and is the ready light flashes that is and indicator that it is going to trip and your should lock the break out for that cut
You need to do an actual cut in bypass mode to be sure. The system is much less sensitive prior to operation than when the saw is running, plus the inside of the board could have a higher moisture content than the outside
Agree that plunge/track saws render obsolete the 52 inch fence as a table top junk collector and space taker upper. I have a 52 that doubles as router table but when space is a premium the 32 inch fence is plenty!
Looks like we both just got the Infinity tools Sawstop insert. Curious to know what you think.
I was looking at that too, David. I actually was really close to purchasing it when I first got the saw and then sort of forgot about it. But I do cut a fair bit of stock with very thin offcuts that occasionally get sucked in between the blade and the insert and that’s no bueno.
I actually went with the Colliflower version, which look to be pretty much the same exact thing. So far so good, but I'm only two projects in on this thing so we'll see.
I bought one of those early on - I like it, but changing inserts after the first winter with it is difficult.If the metal is too cold, I have to take it inside and warm it up so that I can get the insert out. I also don't like that their inserts aren't really friendly to make your own - I'm not entirely sure what I can use to get that angled cut.
@@woodwhisperer Same here. I've had mine for a couple of years now and still love it. One of the nicer things is that the inserts are so cheap I can make a variety of dedicated setups for very little money.
Infinity tools sells the colliflower insert. It actually says colliflower on it.
My husband bought me a sawstop in 2019. I guess he got tired of worrying that I would cut my hand off. Haha. I have loved every minute of it!!
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I bought a sawstop for the safety feature as well. As a novice woodworker I can't compare the saw to other saws, but I like the fit and finish of the machine as well.
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I had considered a SawStop two years ago, and I was looking at something I could move around since I do my work in a 2 car garage. I was looking and considering it and I had a friend buy their contractor saw for his business. He cuts all kinds of stuff all day and between him and his men, they set it off once a week or more. Wet wood has been the biggest issue with his work. He eventually went back to some Dewalt stuff and mainly uses the Sawstop when they get a big job. I opted for something else since I have used my current Grizzly for over 30 years without a mishap. I know they can happen but I am very careful. I had a woodworker friend ask me how I had hands with so few scars after all this time and I told him that I always get my son to push the wood through my table saw just in case. (kidding). Great review. Let us know how it goes and if you manage to trip it. I will say the demonstration with the hotdog that Sawstop put out is impressive.
Good video as always. I bought my Powermatic PM2000 back when Sawstop was first becoming available. A friend of mine who worked at a woodworking store liked the Sawstop, had done demonstrations with the Sawstop and bought one for his own Woodshop. But the number of accidental activations he had, due to the moisture content of the wood, etc, turned me off of the Sawstop. And I was concerned about the trunnion/saw durability and the cost of new blades and cartridges. Knowing what I know now about the Sawstop, I probably would have bought the Sawstop. I like my Powermatic just fine and it does everything I ask of it. And knock on wood, hopefully I never regret getting a saw without the flesh sensing technology.
When I got my PM2000 tablesaw I got the bigger motor with the 30 something inch table with router lift as my shop was in a 2 car garage. But I also bought the 52”? Extension table with router plate cut out and rails be cause I had plans to build a detached workshop and put the larger extension on it as I make a lot of dental molding in long lengths.
Still haven’t built my detached workshop yet though due to an injury at work. It was a car accident where someone ran a red light and t-boned my right front door and significantly damaged my back and neck. I had to take a medical retirement and never got the shop built. I guess it could have been worse… 😊
Good call. I am SOOOOO happy for you and your assistant. I moved over to my first safety saw about 5 years ago, a SawStop. It already saved the fingers/hand of one of our employees. Because of that abject lesson, we added a Kappa 550 sliding table saw. Both are beyond essential parts of our studio now. SawStop is an amazing value.
Having cut many dadoes on a Sawstop I can say that changing out the Dado brake for the normal brake really isn't an issue.
I've found all kinds of benefits to the Sawstop vs my old crapman.. First I still have the remaining parts of my index finger after switching over. (kind of nice to not bleed painfully) I have a 52" PCS , but now kind of wish I had stuck with a 36"..Oh well..It gives me extra places for even more crap!
I did note that the blade to miter slot adjustment was dead on from day one. Never needed an adjustment, but I am equipped to do that when the time comes.
I run my PCS on a dedicated 20 amp circuit instead of 220 and have had no issues cutting through 3" of both solid walnut and hard maple, but I do try to avoid cheap blades. My OEM Sawstop blade was a victim of the only brake incident when I inadvertently touched the blade with a metal tape measure. Both the blade as well as the brake became displays of what not to do.
I was never sold on the OEM blade anyway. I really have no idea why a manufacturer of a $3000 saw would include a $40 blade, but oh well..
Little late to comment. But hearing your input on the compromises - I bought this saw as the first full saw I got, and I'm perfectly comfortable with all the obvious compromises you saw as I'm a hobbiest.
That is so true, i didn't even think about it. i bought the extended table and I also break down with a track saw. I never do a full sheet on the table saw. Smart. but it is a good place to collect junk as you say.
Looking forward to seeing what upgrades you go with.
I have the exact same saw (for a few months). Love it! I came from a contractor saw, so massive upgrade for me. I picked it up because my boys told me they wanted to do some woodworking projects with me in the garage (among other reasons).
When I was planning to upgrade from my jobsite table saw, I learned all about the SawStop safety feature. It was pretty much all I heard about the SawStop. After hearing a salesman spend a lot of time talking about the safety feature, I kind of lost it and said, "I get it! But my primary purpose of buying a table saw is not to cut myself; instead, I'm buying it to accurately and consistenly cut wood! I wanted to know the main difference between a SawStop and a similar Powermatic saw. The surface things I could see (metal lock knobs and an overall perception of Powermatic being a bit more 'stout.' But then I finally heard something that rang with me: SawStop is designed so that if the safety feature is ever activated, the cartridge can be replaced and you can resume use. What that meant to me was a very strong (read, "stable") and robust trunnion and everything else that gets the incredible "hit" when things come to a literal crashing stop in milliseconds. The fact of being able to get a saw back up and running after this extreme physics event is what sold me on SawStop. Maybe Powermatic is just as robust; I've never owned one. But I can say I have been very pleased with SawStop accuracy and consistency. On one other note: A woodworking friend of mine told me if it was at all possible and if I could afford it, the 3hp version is well worth the money. I followed his advice and I can say it was well worth the money. It is the first table saw I've ever had that runs off 240v, but the horsepower is incredible. I have not yet found any material, either in composition or heft that drags it down!
This is true. This first prototypes required the saw be sent back for checking and alignment after an activation. They realized this would be a deal killer due to downtime and would piss off users.
So instead they went back to the drawing board and beefed up the whole trunion mechanism to withstand repeated activations.
Mark, you reminded me that I could adjust the play in the rip fence, which I did. But afterward I couldn't clamp the fence in position. I called SS tech support and they told me to reverse the adjustment, and to pull the locking lever away from the saw when fine tuning the position (to seat the two pads). I loved getting rid of the slop, but disappointed that there wasn't a separate adjustment for the locking lever.
It’s a pity that Saw Stop sued Bosch and stopped them from selling their job site saw with their version of a safety brake, it might have saved a few more fingers!