HowTo Install Outdoor Weatherproof Outlet on Brick Wall
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- Опубліковано 27 січ 2018
- This video shows how I ran electrical wire through an existing PVC pipe going from an indoor outlet to outside my wall. I mention a number of questions about what type of wire to use and how to seal the box to the wall. There are some good detailed shots of exactly what comes with the combo box. See the comments for some good feedback on what type of wire to use!
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Note: romex in conduit may not be advised: diy.stackexchange.com/questio... - Навчання та стиль
I'm a small contractor - NOT an electrician! And it is very interesting to see how an intelligent DIY guy approaches this job! I would have stripped the Romex, like others have said... no big deal that I can see, but it's good to inform other DIY'ers of the general rule!
Also, I don't like to ever "back stab" a receptacle - every time you change the receptacle, you lose length on your wire! Overall, I think it's really good!
THANK YOU for taking the time to post. I followed your example and had no issues installing an exterior plug.
Very helpful...Going thru block wall to outside with 2 Gang set up. Thank you!
Thank you - your video showed me what their listing did not - that this is exactly what I wanted to cover an outlet that I have on an outside brick wall. The current cover 1) has a cover that lifts up when you plug something in, exposing it to wind and water; and 2) keeps falling off of the 1830s brick, so I have to do something about it anyway. Your step-by-step video shows me everything I need to know.
glad it helped! I too found the info before trying lacking
Very helpful to watch as I tackled the same thing this weekend. Thanks for posting!
Thanks for the video. I bought the same one today for our pool.
Thanks for the video. I have the same kits. Duct seal is a good water proofing behind the box, use a relatively thin layer. Also, I drilled through the back of the box and used 3/16 Tap Con masonry screws.
Helpful video, I'm installing a flood light fixture to brick the same way.
Thank you for filming and posting the video. It helped answer some questions I have. The biggest concern I have with what you've done is that you've used 14 gauge wire for the new outlet on a circuit that looks like it was 12 gauge and probably protected by a 20 amp circuit breaker. My understanding is that 14 gauge wire can only be used on a 15 amp circuit. I agree with others that back stabbing from the inside outlet is not great.
Thank you for posting this - I was looking for a way to run ethernet outside for a solar inverter and this works for my purposed. Come to think of it, this will also work, on a different area of the house, for me to run power to a shed that I hope to build out back as well.
Good job, Boss! 👍🏼
Thanks for putting this together, this video was helpful.
Contractors use the stab holes all the time because of the time savings, but in my experience they do fail (only a thin blade making contact). I've always used the side screws. For the GFI, I don't know that it's a terrible idea to use it outside but it's probably better on the inside; IE swap the two outlets, or even install a GFI breaker at the electrical box.
THANK YOU!!
This was the best video catered to my specific needs.
You obviously took some time to research the topic. I do like the way you sealed the area. I like my boxes to be higher off the ground, but in your case the previous owner committed you to a box very close to the soil. Nice work.
Thanks for this video. It showed me that I already have the correct box, but I am missing those metal wings with self-tapping screws on the back (I'll have to dig through my stuff and see if I can find them). I was wondering how on earth that box was supposed to be mounted. This video answered that question. Now I just need the outlet and the outer plastic shroud.
in a pinch just drill thru back off box use washers holds longer than those ears and look nicer
LINE vs. LOAD I heard there are two sets of terminals on GFCI receptacles, a line side and a load side. I think this would need to be connected to line side and that the load side is for continuing on to other receptacles. I saw this mentioned in another video's comments, seems critical to me because the interrupt will not work correctly otherwise. I liked your video, it was well done.
If you go line side anything downstream from that GFCI will not be protected (unless additional GFCI receptacles are installed). If you go on the load side anything downstream will be protected from that GFCI. For my particular setup I'm going line connections with multiple GFCI's because I don't want the outlets to trip that aren't affected.
Thanks for the video 👍
Vast majority of pros avoid using the stab connectors in the back of an outlet (10:48-10:54), as many view them as less reliable. You'd be surprised what heat cycles does to them. You're only saving a few extra seconds.
What do you use?
@@GoSunDevils99 Use side screws. Properly strip wire (most outlets have a gauge on reverse side). Yes it takes a few extra seconds, but is much more secure when done correctly.
My MIL had a hot switch at her house and it turned out it was one of those stab connectors had gone bad and everything was oxidised.
I pulled out a few outlets on the house I bought and the wires just popped right out of the stab connectors. NEVER use them!
Thank You Sir for sharing!
Are you from Thibodaux?
Don't use the "back-stab" connection, they are only held in place just two pieces of metal in tension and may work itself lose over time due to thermal cycling. Use a hook and the side screws. Better yet, get a spec grade outlet with back connection feature. As quick as the "back-stab" but you actually tighten down the screws to clamp the wires so they won't come lose. I would also pigtail the original power feed, wire the GFCI, then run the load side back to the internal outlet, so it is protect as well.
These back-stab connectors are fine because you have to tighten the plate with the screws. It's the push-in ones that don't have a screwed in plate to it that should be avoided. Of course, always best to use the terminals but back-stabbing as long as it is screwed in is 100% fine.
Fantastic.
I have something similar for my pool but my plugs will not fit because the power cords have a gfci plug. One plug takes up all the room in the outlet. Would it be too much power if I add both power plugs by using an adapter?
Good jobs
Thank you
Thanks you very
Comments:
1) You could have just used two feet of Black, White and Greed and just ran it through the conduit as you're not really supposed to use romex in conduit but it was a short piece so I won't tell:).
2) You could have put the GFCI inside the house then you could have protected that outlet as well. True if you did trip the GFCI you'd have to go in the house to reset it. You could still protect the inside outlet by running directly to the GFCI then run two wires back to the inside outlet. However then if you tripped the inside you'd have to go outside to reset it. Only way to win on that one is to use two GFCIs.
3) Better to use Green insulated wire when making up several ground connections inside a small metal box like that. Just less likely to short than having bare coper.
timon0x31 I wish you were around before the install! Why is Romex in conduit bad? But bare black and white better?? I understand that the wire should be protected from getting scratched, is there overheating concern? Good advice on the green ground connections.
@@ScottDriscoll Romex does not go into conduit because it can overheat, it's meant to run freely through walls in residential. If you use proper connectors there is no risk of scratching the insulation especially on such a short run
Spartan raises an excellent theoretical point. While your use of Romex is "forgivable," it is "gauche." The sizing of conductors (i.e., their ampacities) is predicated on the assumption of heat dissipation. Heat needs to be dissipated. Various charts in the code show that, for the same current, larger wire is needed if the ambient temperature is higher. Cooler is better than warmer.
@@ScottDriscoll it is called "conduit fill". basically if you use romex the calculations get all whacky because it is calculated based on its "oval" size and thus you can only fit 14/2 romex wire in a 3/4in conduit without going over fill. THHN or THWN are typically used in conduit, and you can fit a bunch more single conductors in a 3/4in conduit than you can with romex. Your conduit looks about 1/2in so you are already over fill, especially with the additional THHN wires. Probably never going to cause and issue, but it is always good to know for future projects.
@@fd3871 Thanks, just to make sure I understand, all this is still talking about overheating potential, right? Fill percentage has something to do with airflow?
Good jobs thank you Boss
Be careful when you are wiring the outlet. Using those push slots can be ok if you have screws to tighten them in.
You also may want to run electrical tape around the terminals when using a metal box, especially outside.
Great idea, I always do. Learn that from a friend that was helping me wire my garage.
11:01 it’s best to use change to a commercial grade outlet and wrap outlets with electrical tape for metal boxes to keep it from shorting out
That’s a red flag
Nice job dude saved yourself a couple hundred dollars
What size conduit did you buy?
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Uses silicon caulking on glue-on connector.
After a while that wire might go bad. Should have used THHN. I get that it is weatherproof but it's out in nature and water will find a way.
I put my GFI inside the home, sure you have to go inside if you trip it but, The reason I do that is, I am not in the house 6 months out of the year. So I can turn off my GFI in that area and if by chance someone try's to use that plug when I am not there. It will not work.
you should have used thhn wire romex dosen't do good in conduit because it can heat up
lol it was like 5 inches and the only conductors nothing to worry about but with other conductors yes fill wld be a factor also you can always just strip the romex at least i did 20 yrs ago wld have to chk with jha to see if i still cld ??
GFCI should be inside the building away from the weather, the regular receptacle outside. THHN or THWN stranded wire between the two boxes, 1 black, 1 white, 1 green. I've seen many GFCI receptacles go bad from stray moisture. Keep them inside wherever possible. And never use the "stab holes" in the back of receptacles. Wrap the conductor clockwise around the screw or use a receptacle with a captive jaw built into it (more expensive device)......JMHO
isnt romex just 2 cables of thhn and a bare ground in a sheath when i was taught to run cables for residential i wld run romex to the conduit and strip it all the way from connector to connector it has been like 20 yrs since i have done it and not sure if it is still code i wld chk with jha first though
They make weather resistant GFCI outlets now. For cost savings though, I would still put a regular GFCI on the inside and a standard weather resistant outlet outside.
What kind of waterproof have you used or do you recommend. Thank you
Maybe different where you live but usually the ground plug is on the bottom your outlet is upside down.
Lots of places code now has the ground plug on the top. Something about if you were to accidentally grab the pins while plugging/unplugging something, you're less likely to grab the hot?
@@HonzoSample the ground hole gets mounted upward to signify it's a 20 amp circuit... otherwise it's just upside down.
AFAIK, NEC has no regulation regarding receptacle orientation. That being said, it is theoretically safer to have the ground facing up because if you have a loose plug with exposed prongs, it is far easier for a falling object to short those than if it landed on the ground prong instead. Of coarse if you have an outlet with loose connections, it really just needs to be replaced. There still could be local regulations regarding the orientation so I would double check.
@@Derakkon2 You're correct about there being no code and there is an argument for putting the ground on top but in my experience, nearly every plug I've seen where orientation makes a difference, they've been designed for the ground to be on the bottom. I've come across literally one plug which was designed for use the other way and if I recall correctly, that was on a two-pin plug.
Its best to use 12 gauge wire tho
If you are using romex wire , you need to use outside wire. Gray colored wire for the weather. Check code in your area. Unfortunately it comes in a 250ft coil, for about $200.
only if it is exposed to weather and big box stores will normally sell you cable by the foot off of a reel
He shouldn’t have used cable at all. Individual conductors are preferable in this situation because they are inside boxes and conduit, completely protected.
@@RB-xv4si true but inexperience I mean me personally I would have just striped the nm sheath and just ran the lose cables thru but for such a short run not bad for a novice
wizard3z castor yeah he did pretty well overall. Should have used a WR rated receptacle though.
Against code to run romex in conduit
not in all areas although frawned upon but if its the only set of conductors it shouldnt matter especially in this 6 inch run
@@wizard3z868 No dude, per the NEC it is not code to run NM in conduit. The only areas that this would not be the case would be where local code specifically supercedes this, which for this specifically is highly unlikely. There's a lot of code issues in this video, this is just one example.
@@justingurski8770 i didnt notice any (this man even grounded all the boxes )and even this 6 inch run with just one cable i cldnt see any inspector being that much of a big deal unless they had close ties to a master spark and gets a kickback lol
@@justingurski8770 what code section. The only thing I found was it could not run in conduit in wet location. I did find where it said to run in conduit to protect from damage. You need a code class to learn how to read the codebook
Nick it is no code violation to run nm-b in conduit If so find it.
You were supposed to run 12 AWG wire for the outlet.
That's a 15 amp outlet, 14 AWG is actually correct but most people run 12, but if you look inside the wire going to the inside outlet is also 14 AWG. In either case the total length of the Romex is only 12 inches.
How do you know? Did you see the rating on the breaker? No, you didn’t
Mike King the wire is not sized for the receptacle. It’s sized for the rating of the breaker it’s running from. If it was running from a 20A breaker, it should be #12 wire but we don’t know this information because he never showed it to us or told us.
Hey man I am not trying to bash your video but it is against the NEC to run indoor romex in conduit. If I was in your shoes I would have spoken to the electrical inspector in your area about what I want to do and how to do it correctly and to code. So basically you have set the next home owner up for failure when it comes time for housing inspections and they have the right to open up each outlet and check. Once they see "Oh someone used 14/2 Indoor" they will flag it and now the next homeowner will have to call in a licensed electrician to have your error fixed. And let me tell you some inspectors are very strict.
I have witnessed homeowners have to demolish a wall for the inspector to check the wiring and how it was run and connected. You should have spent a little extra and get THHN #12 solid wire in Black, white and green. They sell them in different lengths and you can have a employee at The Home Depot cut a custom length for you. Just my 2 cents. Because I know there are some nasty comments and people will nitpick the life out of you when someone posts electrical or any DIY video.
Do you think he could’ve also used a UF-B 12/2 cable without the conduit?
What code section says that. Wait let me save you time NONE
I truly recommend to check with a License electrician before doing something like this. And consult with the NEC { National Electrical Code }. The outlets are connected otherwise. The hot needs to be on the right and the neutral on the left with the ground down, like a little face. If u use pvc, you don't need romex, just the cables and 12 gauge for more safety.
actually nec has recommended ground up/top since the 1990's
Both of you guys don’t know what you’re talking about. NEC has never specified ground up or ground down, nor ever given a “recommendation” of such a thing. It is code compliant to install either way.
@@RB-xv4si well I just know tht in trade school my instructor told us tht ground up was the recommended way/ standard but the only time in 25 yrs I've ever seen it enforced has been commercial or industrial or a Cple of times the jha was on the rag lol
You’re not really supposed to use 14 gauge wire for receptacles, most people nowadays use 12 gauge
😂 show me the code that says that
Russell Brown idk the code I just know from expericence as an electricians helper that no one uses 14 gauge romex anymore
P Good 14 gauge romex is used every single day all over the place. I have no clue why you think that. Do you think a contractor is going to pony up for #12 romex if the code requirements can be met with #14 romex? No, absolutely not. It’s not how you run a business.
Russell Brown idk where you live but over here everyone uses 12 now a days, you only see 14 gauge in older houses.
P Good no idea what you’re talking about. Maybe your local ahj has a particular amendment to whatever NEC cycle they have adopted but it is 100% normal and code compliant to use #14 wire on a 15A circuit. It is done every day everywhere. You remind me of a little kid that sees rain outside and thinks it’s raining everywhere else on planet earth.
You clearly have no idea what you are doing because pretty much everything about this is wrong.
Wrong gauge wire.
No PVC cement.
Improper wire nut installation
Used Stab connector instead of screws on side.
Installed outlet upside down
Only sealed one side of the outlet box.
Used the wrong kind of caulking. Kitchen and bath instead of outdoor rated caulking.
Pinning this comment so others get fair warning!
💔 please type in Greta Thunberg connects climate ecological and health crisis.
Bro you just hooked up the wires to the load side of the gfi. It's upside down the ground is always suppose to be to the bottom. You have no other receptacles branched off of that circuit. It was better that you had called an electrician. You should of not put this video up showing ppl this just saying.
are you talking about the new outlet or old one? The new one at least had clearly marked "Line" "Load" "hot" and "white" labels that you can see around 8:11