*Excellent lathe **MyBest.Tools** I started turning pens, and this is a very smooth running lathe. I am glad that I went with a variable speed lathe. It is made of top quality materials and will probably out last me. I highly recommend.*
I have used one of these lathes professionally and was very happy with its repeatability. The swarf inside the bore is from the back plates for the chucks. These are supplied from the factory only machined on the mount side, these are then mounted to the spindle of the lathe they are paired with and machined on the lathe to suit each chuck. This is done to guarantee concentricity as they do vary between machines. Even Mazak and Colchester come like this. If you cant find them for sale they are very easy to make on your lathe. The one thing I noticed was the motor is a bit small, for a lathe this size a minimum of 3 hp better with 4hp to take full advantage of it's size and rigidity. The machine would have landed at the dealer without the DRO fitted as well so the dodgy fit is most likely due to the tool that fitted it. As for the runout problems with the 3 jaw chuck the Chinese chucks do have some repeatability problems but a lot of that can be fixed by touch up grinding the contact points and faces if it is really bad. I would mention that the segmented drive belts can cause problems especially with a braked motor. They can unseat and go lumpy, you should always use match free or a pair of matched belts in that area also a quality brand like Bondo, Gates or Goodyear. Once those pulleys wear from unmatched belts they never run well without re machining. I hope your machine is still running well.
"The graduations on the compound only go to 60 degrees.". That can easily be overcome by adding a second mark on the compound base at 90 degrees to the first.
The 1440GT is Taiwanese made. The 1440BV as shown in video is indeed made in China. Hence the1440GT has a higher price point (better quality). Just called PM sales. I shared that I wanted a 2" spindle bore model, but the the Taiwan equivalent (1340GT) only came with a 1-9/16 spindle bore : (. In the price point I was limted to, only the Chinese made models offered the 2" spindle bore. This lead me back to the PM-1440BV. The gentlemen producing this video stated his was around $5,800. That was 9 years ago. Today it starts at $7,799 without added accessories and $8,799 if you wanted the DRO. Additionally, if I wanted a Taiwanese made lathe with a 2" bore in the 14/40 range, the price jumps up beyond $11K ! Looks like I'm having to consider the PM-1440BV made in Communist China.
Thanks, nice video. I'm looking for a 1340 or 1440, primarily as a hobby machine. But it will get used as a repair machine in my plant also. We've got quite a few CNC machines that that have VFD. They run all day pretty much non-stop. We've had one minor fire in a control cabinet due to over heating the braking resistors. Burned up a 10hp drive and a wad of wires. I modified the machine control by doubling the # of resistors adding a baffle and adding a fan to cool them. I don't think there would be a problem with the light useage on a small lathe but make sure you have plenty of ventilation for the control cabinet, just in case.
I had oil coming out of the electrical panel on the rear, but this has not recurred. It's possible I overfilled it or perhaps there was some in there from when it was first made.
Just wanted to thank you, this was a very objective review from an experienced user. Looking to buy my first metal Lathe and am watching/ trying to learn all I can. Don’t know whether to buy old and restore or new Chinese? This seems to work well. I’d sooner buy once & cry once than keep upgrading every few years. I will try and get a retired fitter / turner to take me under his wing and tutor me, as well as help me buy a good Lathe first time whether used or new.
I don't think that all PM lathes are made in Taiwan. They do have one model that states that it is made in Taiwan, and this is noted in the very first line of its main features. This is the one: PM 1340 GT, and it does cost quite a bit more than the Chinese lathes they sell.
Level3-RC It does have a big breaking resistor, just not a mechanical brake. It stops pretty quickly but it's not the same. Not unhappy with it, just not quite as advertised. The noise level with the new belts is a little quieter but not much, mostly it's gear noise and the whine of the VFD.
That's simply wrong. The PM1440-BV is made in China like almost all of PM's machines. Only a small number of Precision Matthews machines are made in Taiwan and they are advertised prominently as such, and priced much higher. The comparable Taiwanese lathe is the PM1440-GT. The machines weigh the same, and both advertise hardened ways, so capacity should be similar and longevity at least comparable. But the PM1440-BV is currently $5700 delivered, while the PM1440-GT, after you buy the "preferred" equipment package, and then add the 4-jaw chuck and QCTP so it's tooled comparably, is $8940 -- a $3240 premium, and the PM1440-GT doesn't have variable speed drive. Is it worth that to buy a Taiwanese import instead of a Chinese import? Possibly. But being a PM does NOT automatically make it Taiwanese. PM may in fact be a good place to buy a machine, but their Chinese machines are fundamentally the same as everyone else's Chinese machines. (Yes I know the comment is a year old, but it's still false and I've heard it elsewhere.)
I learned to turn on a Standard Modern, and I also noticed the similarities. The gearbox controls are obviously a bit different, but I think I would fell comfortable hopping on one of these. Thank you for the review!
The DRO on cross feed was flush in the front on my PM1236. If I screwed in the crossfeed far enough, the stop was to crush the encoder glass. I ordered a new encoder and remounted the DRO encoder 1" back. The idea is to center the ecocer travel on cross feed travel, not look good.
Great video Mike. Made me decide to purchase the same lathe. I have it up and running and did some of the same changes you did on yours. I have one question : do you happen to remember what is the size/reference of the lever you purchased from Mc Master. I looked at that screw and it seems to be and M10 1.5 55m long bolt but I'm not sure... Thanks in advance
Hello Mike and thanks for posting this review. I picked up a similar machine from Matt, the PM-1440E-LB, back in Oct and I really like it. Like you, I have a few minor gripes with it but overall it's a good machine. They did address the DRO scale issue and the drill chuck that came with mine is fine. Ditto on the drain plugs, those suck. I do have a question on the 120/127T combined gear and hope you can shed some light on it. I'm trying to cut metric threads for the first time and I cannot figure out which way the combined gear should be mounted. Do I mesh the 120T with the "A" gear and the 127T with the "B" gear? This is what the front panel seems to indicate but the back of the combined gear does not have a spacer to stand it off rubbing on the banjo. Any hints?
JRoque250 The diagram on mine shows the 127Tmeshing with the A gear up top and the 120 with the bottom B gear that is connected to the change box. I haven't tried any metric threads with it yet. What I would try is flipping the 120/127T gear to the 127T side it out and then flip the B gear around, that is how the diagram makes it look. I took a photo of the gear chart, otherwise I'd be guessing at the moment. :) It's possible you may have to make some spacers, I don't know. I have a ton of work right now, which is why no videos in a few weeks, but if I can get out to the shop for a few minutes tonight I'll give it a quick try and get back to you.
Mike Galusha Hey Mike, thanks for the quick response. You are right, 127T meshes with A for metric threads. Per my calculations, using an 8 TPI screw, that was the right setup as well. I temporarily used the spacers in the other gears to mount the 127T/120T combined and that worked - sort of, they don't align right. I was just puzzled that a spacer was not included for the metric setup. Thanks!
JRoque250 I took a quick look at mine, the 120/127 gear has a bushing in it, that will have to be reversed to space the gears properly. On mine this seems pressed in, It didn't want to move with a few light taps on an aluminum drift. I am pretty sure they will line up OK of that bushing is reversed.
congrats on your lathe, Mike...very nice video. Recently got me a PM 1640 and everything is a little bigger but I don't know if that's a big deal, at least for me...:) I bought mine used from QMT but very little use on it...it just was available. I intend to upload a vid for it soon.
..Taiwan can be a little better than China...but where's this one from....I got on their website...but no pricing like Grizzly..? What does this unit cost? Have you reviewed a similar sized Grizzly..?
Hey There Mike, I really appreciated the video! It certainly made it very clear cut and was helpful here and more then I expected with a quick note. When you said bigger lathe were you just referring to the width of the ways and the carriage or also usable dimensions such as getting a 16x40 instead? In regards to the other accessories how was the rests and centers?
zomie1 Mostly to the width of the ways and carriage. Only once so far have I come close to running out of length but if I found a 16 x 60 or something similar along the road I'd be happy to give it a new home. The dead centers are fine as is the live center. The rests are brass tipped and OK. I have not needed to use the traveling steady but it looks OK. The steady worked fine.
I have been looking at Precision Matthews very hard bc they are made in Taiwan and are supposedly better quality than Chinese. You said they were Chinese. Were you speaking figuratively as Taiwan is supposedly part of China?
Only some of the Precision Matthews lathes are made in Taiwan vs. the others from mainland China. The Taiwanese PM lathes are the ones with the 'T' in the model name: PM-1236-T, 1340GT, 1440GT, 1440TL, 1640TL, and 1660TL (as of 2019-08-02). I believe they have Japanese spindle bearings and are described as 'ultra precision lathes' in PM descriptions.
I was taken aback by your final comment, "would I buy another, yes!" after I heard the first half of the review, which was negative. After hearing several reviews of the Grizzly G0709, my feelings were that it sounded OK when I saw the general features. But when I saw a review that listed some of the precision features (like back-lash) I felt that I don't want to go anywhere near one. Then I saw a review for a Precision and I thought that I'm leaning towards that one, but I see a review that lists the precision aspects, and then I'm NOT interested! First of all - they both look similar, are then both from the same Chinese company? If yes, then I can understand all the issues. I have to admit that I don't have a lot of experience with all the types of lathes available, but want one for small projects. My father had an old large machinist lathe, that I used a little as a younger adult. I could inherit this from his belongings, but I don't want an 8 foot lathe that is more manual than automatic and very old. But I want precision. At least within practical expectations.
@@markman63 Sorry, I have not been able to commit to a specific machine. The price and the quality don't match up at this time. I'm getting older and at this point I don't know if I should spend that much money for something I absolutely don't need.
Duluth trading. Corporate based in Wisconsin and stuff made in Vietnam lol. Tourists that come to Duluth MN think that they actually make the crap here
I agree with the comment about the drain plug for the headstock, it beggar's belief that an otherwise practical product has the drain where it is! The new ones are just the same alas...Lathes are never large enough I have found, I have 3 of various capacities. The smallest is a 1/2 metre version of this one but with a geared headstock so the brake is a brake not a micro switch. I use mine to do 70 to 80% of my work, 2hp is cheaper than 10 or 12hp to run per hour.
I understand, I have a larger machine, but I use this one for almost everything. I'm actually addressing the brake, I had a look at the parts diagram of the non variable speed version and think the brake parts will fit, they are supposed to arrive next week. Hopefully I can make it work.
@@MikeGalusha I work for a fella that imports lathes like that one out of China part time and are sure they should fit ok. The only worry is what a sudden stop with the brake will have on the varispeed motor stuff, likely none...
I don't believe this model is--you need to go to the PM-1440GT for that, which adds about $2300. You can also go to the 1440TL lathe which adds $4500+ above that, but it's almost twice the mass.
Dose your manual call it a "break" ? I have never known any one to need or want a break it is ment to be a E stop . I think you need to check your thinking on term knowledge my thinking is you and others could be calling it a ebreak or just a cross word use .
Why do people bad talk chinese products, China sells high-quality goods, if the suppliers in the US buys and sells poor quality goods to sell in the US it not China fault
@@shreddder999 not if you talk to anyone in Taiwan. Taiwanese boys all go to the military after high school to prepare for the day that China gets too involved in Taiwan.
Wow! They really don't pay attention to details given all the effort already put in. It's just attitude. Have to give it the the Japanese. With a little more effort they could have a replaceable for a Japanese machine at way less than half price like a Tormach.
*Excellent lathe **MyBest.Tools** I started turning pens, and this is a very smooth running lathe. I am glad that I went with a variable speed lathe. It is made of top quality materials and will probably out last me. I highly recommend.*
I have used one of these lathes professionally and was very happy with its repeatability.
The swarf inside the bore is from the back plates for the chucks. These are supplied from the factory only machined on the mount side, these are then mounted to the spindle of the lathe they are paired with and machined on the lathe to suit each chuck. This is done to guarantee concentricity as they do vary between machines. Even Mazak and Colchester come like this. If you cant find them for sale they are very easy to make on your lathe.
The one thing I noticed was the motor is a bit small, for a lathe this size a minimum of 3 hp better with 4hp to take full advantage of it's size and rigidity.
The machine would have landed at the dealer without the DRO fitted as well so the dodgy fit is most likely due to the tool that fitted it.
As for the runout problems with the 3 jaw chuck the Chinese chucks do have some repeatability problems but a lot of that can be fixed by touch up grinding the contact points and faces if it is really bad.
I would mention that the segmented drive belts can cause problems especially with a braked motor. They can unseat and go lumpy, you should always use match free or a pair of matched belts in that area also a quality brand like Bondo, Gates or Goodyear. Once those pulleys wear from unmatched belts they never run well without re machining.
I hope your machine is still running well.
This is a very good review Mike. Informative, fair and just what anyone in the market for this class of lathe would want. Nicely done.
Nice to see a "non-sponsored" review. Looks pretty similar to my Grizzly which I've had for 10 years and been very happy with.
"The graduations on the compound only go to 60 degrees.". That can easily be overcome by adding a second mark on the compound base at 90 degrees to the first.
The 1440GT is Taiwanese made. The 1440BV as shown in video is indeed made in China. Hence the1440GT has a higher price point (better quality). Just called PM sales. I shared that I wanted a 2" spindle bore model, but the the Taiwan equivalent (1340GT) only came with a 1-9/16 spindle bore : (. In the price point I was limted to, only the Chinese made models offered the 2" spindle bore. This lead me back to the PM-1440BV. The gentlemen producing this video stated his was around $5,800. That was 9 years ago. Today it starts at $7,799 without added accessories and $8,799 if you wanted the DRO. Additionally, if I wanted a Taiwanese made lathe with a 2" bore in the 14/40 range, the price jumps up beyond $11K ! Looks like I'm having to consider the PM-1440BV made in Communist China.
Thanks, nice video. I'm looking for a 1340 or 1440, primarily as a hobby machine. But it will get used as a repair machine in my plant also. We've got quite a few CNC machines that that have VFD. They run all day pretty much non-stop. We've had one minor fire in a control cabinet due to over heating the braking resistors. Burned up a 10hp drive and a wad of wires. I modified the machine control by doubling the # of resistors adding a baffle and adding a fan to cool them. I don't think there would be a problem with the light useage on a small lathe but make sure you have plenty of ventilation for the control cabinet, just in case.
Thanks Mike, where did you say it drips?
I had oil coming out of the electrical panel on the rear, but this has not recurred. It's possible I overfilled it or perhaps there was some in there from when it was first made.
Just wanted to thank you, this was a very objective review from an experienced user.
Looking to buy my first metal Lathe and am watching/ trying to learn all I can. Don’t know whether to buy old and restore or new Chinese?
This seems to work well.
I’d sooner buy once & cry once than keep upgrading every few years.
I will try and get a retired fitter / turner to take me under his wing and tutor me, as well as help me buy a good Lathe first time whether used or new.
I don't think that all PM lathes are made in Taiwan. They do have one model that states that it is made in Taiwan, and this is noted in the very first line of its main features. This is the one: PM 1340 GT, and it does cost quite a bit more than the Chinese lathes they sell.
Level3-RC It does have a big breaking resistor, just not a mechanical brake. It stops pretty quickly but it's not the same. Not unhappy with it, just not quite as advertised. The noise level with the new belts is a little quieter but not much, mostly it's gear noise and the whine of the VFD.
+Mike Galusha The PM machines are not made in China they are made in Taiwan known for making higher quality than Chinese made machines
That's simply wrong. The PM1440-BV is made in China like almost all of PM's machines. Only a small number of Precision Matthews machines are made in Taiwan and they are advertised prominently as such, and priced much higher. The comparable Taiwanese lathe is the PM1440-GT. The machines weigh the same, and both advertise hardened ways, so capacity should be similar and longevity at least comparable. But the PM1440-BV is currently $5700 delivered, while the PM1440-GT, after you buy the "preferred" equipment package, and then add the 4-jaw chuck and QCTP so it's tooled comparably, is $8940 -- a $3240 premium, and the PM1440-GT doesn't have variable speed drive. Is it worth that to buy a Taiwanese import instead of a Chinese import? Possibly. But being a PM does NOT automatically make it Taiwanese. PM may in fact be a good place to buy a machine, but their Chinese machines are fundamentally the same as everyone else's Chinese machines. (Yes I know the comment is a year old, but it's still false and I've heard it elsewhere.)
I learned to turn on a Standard Modern, and I also noticed the similarities. The gearbox controls are obviously a bit different, but I think I would fell comfortable hopping on one of these. Thank you for the review!
I just rec'd my PM - 935 TS mill from Precision and the quality is impressive. I plan on buying a lathe like yours this summmer.
The DRO on cross feed was flush in the front on my PM1236. If I screwed in the crossfeed far enough, the stop was to crush the encoder glass. I ordered a new encoder and remounted the DRO encoder 1" back. The idea is to center the ecocer travel on cross feed travel, not look good.
Not sure why this isn't in HD, I certainly uploaded a 1080 file.
Hi do you have the part number for that indexable lever you ordered from Mc Master?
Hello and thank you for the video. Question about carriage stop: do you use it in combination with autofeed or threading? If so, how does it work?
What leveling feet are you using, and what size tools do the included holders take?
Hi mike, can you go from longitudinal feed to 18 tpi without changing end gears?
What places have you tried to find a lathe at new or used ??
Thank you! I'm thinking about buying one, and your video informed me!
Great video Mike. Made me decide to purchase the same lathe. I have it up and running and did some of the same changes you did on yours. I have one question : do you happen to remember what is the size/reference of the lever you purchased from Mc Master. I looked at that screw and it seems to be and M10 1.5 55m long bolt but I'm not sure... Thanks in advance
I was able to find the order, it's McMaster part number 6848K71. M10 x 50mm thread.
Mike Galusha Many Many thanks ! I’ll order it tonight
May I ask where you call home?
I am in Colorado in the US.
PLANET CHONGA ! EARTH !! IN THE SWAZILAND ! OF THE CONGO ! REGION !!
Hello Mike and thanks for posting this review. I picked up a similar machine from Matt, the PM-1440E-LB, back in Oct and I really like it. Like you, I have a few minor gripes with it but overall it's a good machine. They did address the DRO scale issue and the drill chuck that came with mine is fine. Ditto on the drain plugs, those suck.
I do have a question on the 120/127T combined gear and hope you can shed some light on it. I'm trying to cut metric threads for the first time and I cannot figure out which way the combined gear should be mounted. Do I mesh the 120T with the "A" gear and the 127T with the "B" gear? This is what the front panel seems to indicate but the back of the combined gear does not have a spacer to stand it off rubbing on the banjo. Any hints?
JRoque250 The diagram on mine shows the 127Tmeshing with the A gear up top and the 120 with the bottom B gear that is connected to the change box. I haven't tried any metric threads with it yet. What I would try is flipping the 120/127T gear to the 127T side it out and then flip the B gear around, that is how the diagram makes it look. I took a photo of the gear chart, otherwise I'd be guessing at the moment. :) It's possible you may have to make some spacers, I don't know. I have a ton of work right now, which is why no videos in a few weeks, but if I can get out to the shop for a few minutes tonight I'll give it a quick try and get back to you.
Mike Galusha Hey Mike, thanks for the quick response. You are right, 127T meshes with A for metric threads. Per my calculations, using an 8 TPI screw, that was the right setup as well. I temporarily used the spacers in the other gears to mount the 127T/120T combined and that worked - sort of, they don't align right. I was just puzzled that a spacer was not included for the metric setup. Thanks!
JRoque250 I took a quick look at mine, the 120/127 gear has a bushing in it, that will have to be reversed to space the gears properly. On mine this seems pressed in, It didn't want to move with a few light taps on an aluminum drift. I am pretty sure they will line up OK of that bushing is reversed.
JRoque250 I
congrats on your lathe, Mike...very nice video. Recently got me a PM 1640 and everything is a little bigger but I don't know if that's a big deal, at least for me...:)
I bought mine used from QMT but very little use on it...it just was available. I intend to upload a vid for it soon.
John Noneyabizz h
..Taiwan can be a little better than China...but where's this one from....I got on their website...but no pricing like Grizzly..? What does this unit cost? Have you reviewed a similar sized Grizzly..?
Hey There Mike, I really appreciated the video! It certainly made it very clear cut and was helpful here and more then I expected with a quick note. When you said bigger lathe were you just referring to the width of the ways and the carriage or also usable dimensions such as getting a 16x40 instead? In regards to the other accessories how was the rests and centers?
zomie1 Mostly to the width of the ways and carriage. Only once so far have I come close to running out of length but if I found a 16 x 60 or something similar along the road I'd be happy to give it a new home. The dead centers are fine as is the live center. The rests are brass tipped and OK. I have not needed to use the traveling steady but it looks OK. The steady worked fine.
Nice lathe review Mike, Thanks Randy
Good review! I would and maybe will buy a Precision Matthews lathe, It appears to be a lot of machine for the price vs. the typical Chinese lathe..
How do you like it so far?
To extensif in Canada pm lathe
PM1440-BV Country of Origin: China
Many parts of this machine tool are made by CNC machine tools. These CNC machines may be made in America.🎉
What a great video. Thank you so much.
I heard this is taiwan with japan spindle bearings
Excellent presentation! I learned a lot.
I have been looking at Precision Matthews very hard bc they are made in Taiwan and are supposedly better quality than Chinese. You said they were Chinese. Were you speaking figuratively as Taiwan is supposedly part of China?
Only some of the Precision Matthews lathes are made in Taiwan vs. the others from mainland China. The Taiwanese PM lathes are the ones with the 'T' in the model name: PM-1236-T, 1340GT, 1440GT, 1440TL, 1640TL, and 1660TL (as of 2019-08-02). I believe they have Japanese spindle bearings and are described as 'ultra precision lathes' in PM descriptions.
I was taken aback by your final comment, "would I buy another, yes!" after I heard the first half of the review, which was negative. After hearing several reviews of the Grizzly G0709, my feelings were that it sounded OK when I saw the general features. But when I saw a review that listed some of the precision features (like back-lash) I felt that I don't want to go anywhere near one. Then I saw a review for a Precision and I thought that I'm leaning towards that one, but I see a review that lists the precision aspects, and then I'm NOT interested! First of all - they both look similar, are then both from the same Chinese company? If yes, then I can understand all the issues. I have to admit that I don't have a lot of experience with all the types of lathes available, but want one for small projects. My father had an old large machinist lathe, that I used a little as a younger adult. I could inherit this from his belongings, but I don't want an 8 foot lathe that is more manual than automatic and very old. But I want precision. At least within practical expectations.
Which did you end buying?
YOU !! ARE !! CLEARLY !! A !! SPOILT !! BRATT !!!
@@markman63 Sorry, I have not been able to commit to a specific machine. The price and the quality don't match up at this time. I'm getting older and at this point I don't know if I should spend that much money for something I absolutely don't need.
Thanks for the video! It's sure helped me a lot.
Great video! I noticed the Duluth apron - My wife and I love their stuff.
Duluth trading. Corporate based in Wisconsin and stuff made in Vietnam lol. Tourists that come to Duluth MN think that they actually make the crap here
I agree with the comment about the drain plug for the headstock, it beggar's belief that an otherwise practical product has the drain where it is! The new ones are just the same alas...Lathes are never large enough I have found, I have 3 of various capacities. The smallest is a 1/2 metre version of this one but with a geared headstock so the brake is a brake not a micro switch. I use mine to do 70 to 80% of my work, 2hp is cheaper than 10 or 12hp to run per hour.
I understand, I have a larger machine, but I use this one for almost everything. I'm actually addressing the brake, I had a look at the parts diagram of the non variable speed version and think the brake parts will fit, they are supposed to arrive next week. Hopefully I can make it work.
@@MikeGalusha all the best fitting the brake shoes, I am betting the hole is already there to put the connecting rod through in the pan.
@@celtic1522 it is there. From the drawings and looking at the pulley and input bearing mount, I think they are the same parts.
@@MikeGalusha I work for a fella that imports lathes like that one out of China part time and are sure they should fit ok. The only worry is what a sudden stop with the brake will have on the varispeed motor stuff, likely none...
how much cost this mashine
about $8500
Thanks Mike great vid.
your definition of quite and mine are different. in low range it's noisy. it howls. in high range it's nice. i like the lathe though.
Couldn't you just machine a drain cock and then attach a hose to drain from those difficult areas? Thanks for the review!
always put something in the jaws when turning it at hi speed.....
19:30 but Taiwan is China.
Highly appreciated
Hi
Nice job on the video.
This "Chinese" lathe is made in Taiwan, with precision Japanese bearings.
I don't believe this model is--you need to go to the PM-1440GT for that, which adds about $2300. You can also go to the 1440TL lathe which adds $4500+ above that, but it's almost twice the mass.
Dose your manual call it a "break" ? I have never known any one to need or want a break it is ment to be a E stop . I think you need to check your thinking on term knowledge my thinking is you and others could be calling it a ebreak or just a cross word use .
Why do people bad talk chinese products, China sells high-quality goods, if the suppliers in the US buys and sells poor quality goods to sell in the US it not China fault
Because its always HALF BAKED !.and Absolutely FULL of !! S !! And !! S !!! To ! Add !.Here !!
Good video watch’t it several times
Make a video after a year of use
Read the Published Date, this was 2014, too late now for a year update lol
Ok haha
Well you "Silver Tongue Devil" I bought one..
Big difference between China and Taiwan, then.
Except Taiwan *is* China.
@@shreddder999 not if you talk to anyone in Taiwan. Taiwanese boys all go to the military after high school to prepare for the day that China gets too involved in Taiwan.
I hope I can find me a real great used lethe in super shape. I am just not impressed with CHINAMAN machines. They are not really that good.
Xi Jinping built it ! So l understand your concern ! About PLASTIC !! CHONGAMAN !! YING !. TONG ! CAN ! TONG ! LATHES !! HERE !!
@@davidwillard7334 I see you understand.
Wow! They really don't pay attention to details given all the effort already put in. It's just attitude. Have to give it the the Japanese. With a little more effort they could have a replaceable for a Japanese machine at way less than half price like a Tormach.