For those concerned about Half Dome's safety history, keep in mind that in the 100+ years since the cables were put up, there have been about 15 accidental deaths on Half Dome.* Given that over 300 people a day are allowed to climb it in the on season, that is not a high percentage. Nor, in fact, is it even a high number for the park. More have died on Yosemite's most popular trail (the Mist Trail), and about 15 visitors die in Yosemite each year. Yes, climbing Half Dome is dangerous, but there are far more dangerous areas and activities being done in Yosemite on a daily basis. On the other hand, there are some who say safety gear should not be used. I strongly disagree - everyone should do what they're comfortable with. Please keep comments realistic and respectful! *For details, see theworldtravelguy.com/half-dome-deaths/#How_Many_People_Have_Died_On_Half_Dome
I was on Half Dome in 2015 with my daughter. In Europe such a tour had the sentence "Harness and Via-Ferrata-Set recommended" in the description. In USA drinking hot coffee seems to be more dangerous than cable-climbing, cause you get warned that coffee might be too hot. But not get warned you should bring climbing-safety-equipment into a tour you might fall down if something goes wrong...
Excellent overview especially on the clipping in part. By backpacking in vs day hiking do you mean camping overnight somewhere along the way between the parking lot and the sub dome?
Having watched tons of videos, and physically training, I completed Half Dome June 2023. Your video is by far the best!!. We used a via ferrata system which we practiced with before hand. The one downside is the leaning out to move your clips. I wore Altras and they worked great. We brought a water filter. We just used silicone type garden gloves. Training for me, a 40 yo woman, consisted of pull up training, stairclimber, lifting weights, and practice hikes. We started at 6am and were at the cables by 10ish.
Thanks Doug, I climbed Half Dome cables down the end of October. Your videos, advice and gear recommendations were a huge help on preparing and having a great experience AND key safe climb for this novice climber!!!
One major consideration for climbing cables up or down is your hand grip and forearm stamina. My problem going up was depending too much on pulling my body weight up using my arms. Halfway up the cables my hands and forearms were fatigued to failure. I was not wearing safety gear so I depended on my hands to prevent a fall. This meant frequent stops to relieve my muscle fatigue. In addition to that, my gloves were not grippy enough. They were cloth gardening gloves that slipped on the smooth polished cable. So I expended excessive strength trying to ensure a safe grip. Grippy shoes and grippy gloves will make the ascent a lot easier, and a safety harness with tether will make it psychologically more enjoyable.
Yup, I discuss gloves in the video and it's almost best to have two pairs because the way down you kind of want to be able to slide a bit. Good point of grip - if you're relying on the cables to get you up it's gonna be rough! This is another reason I think that cables down can be safer because you can sytop and let go anytime if you're using the right gear. :)
I hiked half dome once in 2015. I thought I was in good shape at 45 , but was embarrassed at falling behind just about everyone along the way. I packed everything that was recommended for the full hike, including a water filtration system for when I stopped to refill at the Merced River. I won’t carry as much again. (I also wondered about those camping along the river in the valley and whether it was ok to leave all your gear there while finishing the HD hike. Would I return to find all my gear stolen?). I was passed by teens in running shorts, trail runners, and a single large water bottle-that was all! My achilles grew painful in the wooden stretch just before the sub dome and I hobbled the rest of the way to the cables. Although I began hiking before 0700, I reached them after 1500. I as ended with my backpack wearing only gloves as additional gear. I wondered if I would cramp up on the rock, but it was nearly empty by that hour-nearly everyone having passed me on their way down through the forest-and I gave it a go. Ascending the cables wasn’t as difficult as I imagined, but I could visualize someone ahead of me slipping-the rock was glassy in spots-and wiping out a line of people waiting behind all the way to the bottom. IMO, HD should be converted to via ferrata as a permit requirement. Sure 999/1,000 times or more nothing bad happens, but looking at it objectively, every ascent is a huge risk. People chat and stop and look around as they ascend and descend and one moment of distraction can wipe out a dozen people below. It can’t be that much of a sacrifice to better equip the rock and the climbers-after all it’s common in Europe. End of the story was that I spent 40 minutes on top with possibly three others up there with me-and it’s so much bigger and even than you’d imagine. You could build an entire subdivision on top, yet from a distance it looks narrow and steep all the way around. Literally a dozen horizontal acres. I came down alone, after 1700 met and convinced another hiker to turn back as the East side would soon be in shadows. We hiked back together, ran straight into a bear in the forest below the sun dome, got checked for permits by a heavily-laden ranger on his way up, and within an hour or so were in complete darkness. We hiked in darkness until we reached the bus stop near the village. It was great, but definitely on the edge of a “tourist” hike and you really need to be in shape for the distance and elevation gain before you attempt it.
I agree with you. It should be converted into a via ferrata when the cables are up. The exposure is just too great and the consequences of a fall are potentially catastrophic. When the cables are down you must use friction hitches.
Excellent information. Thank you. I climbed Half Dome 30 years ago with my girl friend at the time. Did the long day hike, tennis shoes, no gloves, no permits and my girl friend froze about half up the cables. I told her to swallow hard and just keep going. After several tense minutes she started up again and we finally made it to the top. The feeling was so euphoric......it was amazing. The hike back down was almost more nerve wracking. No one wore any sort of harness or safety system the day I climbed up. I'm 63 now and feel the I'm too old to attempt again.
Thank you, Doug. Excellent safety tips. Your videos are valuable, educational, and informative. You are providing good information to help people enjoy the outdoors and stay safe, so thank you!
That would be my worst fear doing this is to be behind someone that freezes up while climbing.All about helping someone out, but I don't want to be someone life coach when I am strapped to a mountain trying to reach the summit. Glad you had this experience. Looks awesome!
I did the cable route before the permit system and the crowds were very annoying. But I didn't find they added any additional danger for myself. I'm experienced rock climber, had climbed Bishop's Terrace before heading to Half Dome -- and just proceeded with caution and kept my eye out for anyone having trouble above me. I also waited until the later part of the day when most people had already descended. Still had plenty of time to get up, enjoy the view and the descent was free of any other hikers. Made it back to the car just as it got dark. I think with the limit to 300-400 people you have a much better chance at avoiding being there when there are exactly 300 people. Cables down looks fun -- if there isn't run-off from snow. Also, I heard in your other video that during those off-season windows before it gets really cold and snowy and wet -- there are often crowds climbing the downed cables. That would be my least favorite ascent -- going up the down cables by prusik with lots of people in front of me and behind. Great video by the way. More people need to think about wearing approach shoes for the cables -- whether up or down!
@@BackcountryPilgrim I am planning to hike up this October, after the cables are down, and to be honest, I was planning on doing it with just the carabiners, like many others have done. But I have never been there before. Hence the reason for watching your video. I do understand the caution given by many folks like yourself, for this approach, but aren't most of those recommendations for climbing gear based off of climbing vertically, while hanging from ropes? Isn't it different while hiking up rock? E.g. if one were to slip and lose grip of the cable, wouldn't their body on the rock be enough resistance to keep from going into a freefall? Or at least enough resistance to slow the sliding so that the carabiner could easily stop them at the next connection point? And wouldn't this be only for an extreme situation where somebody might pass out or something, which could be deadly on nearly ANY hike in the mountains near drop-offs. As I said, I have never hiked this mountain, so I am only asking based on what rocks I have climbed without any gear at all. It just SEEMS like with the cable to hold on to, then just the carabiners would be fine. Kind of like climbing up a HIGH extension ladder with only your hands and feet and NO carabiner. As long as we are holding on, no problem.
I preface this by saying that I made both of my Half Dome gear videos for those with little-to-no idea what to do. I'll answer you more precisely and according to what I think your experience level is. First - yes, the climbing gear mentioned is all made for 90 degree vertical ("class 5") climbing applications. However, there really isn't much else available (45 degree climbing gear? haha!). HD is what I would consider a class 2-3 scramble (which normally does not require safety gear). However, the risk factor is quite high as one can easily get into a deadly fall situation (and several have). Even if an instantaneous free fall isn't at all likely (as it would be in a class 5 climb), a tumble could gain speed and get out of control very quickly. In a cables-up climb that is unlikely. With cables down, it could easily happen at certain points. So for someone who is in good condition (e.g., doesn't need any rest stops between connection points) and used to class 2-3 climbing, a harness connected to carabiners should be sufficient for cables up and *probably* also cables down. I just want people to understand the risk of a shock load in a legit fall on such a system (which is designed for static holds and not dynamic catches). The BEST would be a Via Ferrata setup which gives you the best of both worlds, but those are expensive for their limited applications.
@@BackcountryPilgrim Thanks again for taking the time to respond. I am not super experienced in climbing mountains, especially like those found out west, but I have done plenty of mountain hikes at places like Smoky Mountain National Park, Shenandoah National Park (Old Rag Mountain), the Black Hills, and even Gros Morne National Park up in Newfoundland. I also do snowshoe trips along Pictured Rocks National Lakeshore, which takes you along some very icy edges of cliffs, while pulling 60-120 lb. sleds full of gear over 2-3 feet deep snow for up to 9 miles\day. But Half Dome looks to be a different beast that is sure to test my limited endurance (I am NOT a marathon runner, AT ALL. Ha!). Hence my questions. From what I have seen of videos from others, it looks like something I would try with just the carabiners attached to a waist belt made of climbing webbing, which I already have, but wanted your opinion.
Just use a good harness, strong rope with some give and a one-way cam that has a break if it slides backwards. I did this with the cables up and found it quite easy. Sadly, the next day Danielle B. died- 9.2019. RIP. She had a harness but wasn't clipped in. The weather comes in very quickly- even on a sunny day. She slipped and that was it. IMO, never hike if cables are down. I also found the sub-dome hike tricky- that is the rock just before the big rock. There are no cables or railings and it is a committed area. If you fall, your probably done. Keep in mind, before you get to this final ascent area, your legs are toast from the long hike to get there. We started before sunrise (magical) and it was sunny and hot when we arrived. Good gloves and foot wear and hydration, snacks are all very necessary.
Amazing video. Great analytical skills. I think I watched that video with the carabiner guy... they were just flying up the half dome, but they probably have exp and lower anxiety than normal ppl.
@@BackcountryPilgrim ended up going the weekend after the cables came down. loved it. well within my physical capabilities and felt much better/safer w/ klemheists than people running around with dual carabiners. thanks again!
My main concern with cables up and a simple carabiner and sling is it would likely be side loaded in a fall against those posts. As a retired climber in my 60's I would love to give this a try sometime... preferably off season though. I hate the tourons these sort of hikes tend to attract. Very nice job on this video and thanks.
Thanks for your comment. I am pretty sure the natural pull on the carabiner would keep it from a side load, especially because the cables are basically frictionless but if the sling was tied on maybe. Anyhow I think you'd love it and you'd have the sense to use the gear correctly! Thanks for watching!
Just came upon your video, and having the dates when the cables are up/down is very informative. Thanks! My fear is getting bumped off the cables by another hiker, so I plan to use a harness/hitch system regardless of when I hike this.
Good call. People often think only of their own abilities when deciding what level of protection to take - not considering that 299 other people have permits for the same day and any one of them could do something dangerous TO YOU. :) I am actually planning a trip very soon with my 11 y.o. daughter and you better believe we're going to be using safety gear even though she can out-climb me and probably most of the folks on the route that day. :).
Excellent point at 1:40, the worst are all the solo lead rope videos posted. A lot of dangerous practices presented as good and safe, with the dominant argument being "this works for me", implying that the practices are safe. .
I did it, and it's simple to describe but hard to make yourself do: - Bring gloves (I bought a pair of pigskin work gloves and they worked fine). - Stay on your own side of the path, and don't let go of the cable. - Rest when you're tired, by sitting on the rock under your cable but out of the main tread, with your feet braced against a crossbar and your hands holding the cable above you. - Look at your hands on the cable. Look at your feet on the rock. Look at the crossbars. Look at the person ahead of you. BUT: - DON'T LOOK OUTWARD (There'll be plenty of time for that when you get to the top.) And..... - DON'T LOOK DOWN. - When it's time to go down, go backwards.
Wife and I made an unsuccessful attempt using prusic loops in October of 2017 with the cables down. One thing that cannot be understated is the weight of the cables and the need to be able to tie these hitches quickly and proficiently. I had not taken enough time to teach her these hitches and have her practice enough beforehand, and this resulted in her needing me to confirm her hitch with every transition. After making it about 2/3 of the way up, we bailed because the moving and transitioning of these hitches along with the weight of the cables had our forearms extremely pumped and we knew that we couldn't spend too much time on the cables because there were plenty of other people who were going up/down. Need to make sure you're aware of people above and below to make sure you aren't hindering their experience.
Sounds like you made a wise decision! Yeah strength and skill become an issue for sure. Avoiding the pump is an argument for not having too much in the way of redundancy but then you have that danger. Trade offs any way its done but hopefully this will make it easier to choose the best ones!
Thanks, Great informative video. I didn’t know the details you advise on but seems exactly right. I Prepared for the hike often but one additional factor is altitude! After hiking up in April? Didn’t hear about needing a permit and met park rangers. Cables were up.. I elected to lay on the rocks and enjoy. Legs had a burned out feeling and I had it in mind I still had to hike down as well. Best for me to have camped and gone the next day.
Thanks for this video! I am planning on going to the Park in a little less than two weeks and was bummed when I heard that the cables were down (I thought this meant closed). I was a little nervous after watching other videos on what gear I would need to safely climb this with the cables down as I will be attempting this hike alone. I am in relatively good shape (36 y/o male) but this video really makes me feel more comfortable with what I am taking on. Can't wait to give it a try!
I climbed it 50 years ago. Back then, on season was like off season is now as far as people go and no permits were required. I had been rock climbing and was just taking a hiking day off. I found it quite easy and fun. But you are right, if you fell off of it, you would die. It is probably the most dangerous hiking trail in existence. I also didn't think to take gloves but didn't find that to be much of a problem.
@@BackcountryPilgrim It was indeed although for me I'm thinking it was 35 years ago. Minimal permit or prep needed, check the weather, put your name on a climber register, and go. Might have been 4 others on top when I got there, peak hiking season. I was a newbie rock climber and wanted to check out half dome routes to see if I could do any, but the runout on those routes was way beyond my comfort level. Respect for Yosemite climbers.
There is also the John Muir Trail up which is approx 18 miles round trip. I’ve done both the JMT and Mist Trail up. In my experience, the sub-dome is more dangerous And scary than the Dome itself. My last trip I actually fell on the sub-dome coming down. Loose sand on granite is no joke. Fortunately, I only broke a finger and tore my miniscus. I was very lucky. I highly recommend shoes/boots with very good tread (which I had) it would have been a lot worse if I’d worn sneakers or flip-flops (which I witnessed someone wearing)
Good video I just yesterday did half dome the first time with the cabel down I actually forgot my gloves and because of the snow melt the cables were wet and bear hands did pretty good I had no issues
Yeah the sub dome was the scary part with all the snow having to crawl up and down the Cables were fun amd easy I think having them down is better than up only down side is having to carry the weight of then at the top they do get heavey
Definitely the best video for cables up/down. There's a ton of misinformation on the safety systems, especially from those not experienced with climbing equipment. I already use a Petzl Connect Adjust lanyard for climbing, and was thinking of using that if doing cables up. Thoughts on that? It's dynamic rope material and I feel really solid using that on bolts/master point. Two connection points for the cables of course. Much appreciated on covering literally everything!
Thanks! The Connect does use dynamic rope, but it's much too short to be effective for a free fall. However, you shouldn't be able to achieve a free fall on the cable route and in the scenarios I can imagine I think it would work at least as well as the static systems people use and probably better. If I didn't have a via feratta or some kind of friction plate / screamer (upcoming video!), I'd probably use my Connect.
@@BackcountryPilgrim Thanks! Yeah it occurred to me that the fall forces could easily be a lot higher and the material is short. I actually have the same sling (60cm) that you have the video, but I was fairly unsure of falling some distance on that. Guess I just wanted to avoid purchasing a dedicated item that probably wouldn't be used very much at all besides the cables route.
@@BackcountryPilgrim Almost climbed Half Dome a few years ago, but the stars didn't align that trip. Hopefully I climb to stand and enjoy the same view you've already appreciated.
Loved your no-nonsense, detailed explanations the moment I found them. I'm hiking HD in May with the cables DOWN and still struggling a little with the gear descriptions. You mention needing a) a harness (check) and b) a sling OR long prusik cords OR a personal anchor system. Yet, I seem to see multiple "b"s being put together in the video images themselves. IF I am trying to keep costs low, which of the "b" options do I actually need? I see did read replies in the comments like "you could make it easy and purchase x," but the "x" option is out of my price range... Many thanks for your thoughts & clarification!
Thank you for your comment! I understand the gear choices may not be clear if you’re not used to the various pieces. Further, each gear decision adds and subtracts other gear decisions which can add to the confusion! So let me break down the specific decisions more systematically. The basic idea is that you are connected to the cable for slip safety and so that you can stop in place to rest or work on transitioning your connection at the anchors. The harness holds you and a hitched cord holds the cable. In between these two pieces there may have to be an additional piece to lengthen the system. Because you need to undo your hitch at each anchor in order to transition it, you also want something holding you in place while you use both hands to do that. So . . . First, decide what kind of hitch you want to use in case it uses a specialized cord. Second, decide how redundant you want the system to be. For me the minimum is a cord for slipping/stopping and a carabiner for anchor transitions. You may want a backup cord for redundancy or instead of a carabiner. The upside to a carabiner is they slide easily and won’t slow you down - the downside is they won’t help in a slip. The reverse is true for a backup cord. Third, decide how you want to be connected to the cord(s) and/or carabiner. If the cord is large, there may be enough length left over after tying your hitch to connect it right to your harness (e.g., with a carabiner). If it is small, you’ll something to lengthen the system. If the overall system is too short, you could have trouble moving the cord along the cable because it will be weighted down by it (imagine the cable pulling you down and as you climb and slide the cord along right next to your hip). If the system is too long, it won’t hold you near enough the anchors to be able to reach past them for a transition. A sling or PAS is an easy way to lengthen the connection (girth hitch to harness plus carabiner to cord). Because this length is difficult to assess until you are on the cables, an adjustable system is valuable. An accessory cord could be tied to the desired length on the spot, but you better know how to do that correctly! Slings are easy to use but not super easy to adjust - additional knots can be tied in them (again if you know what you’re doing). A PAS is adjustable by nature. I hope that helps! Oh and another consideration: CA has gotten more snow this winter than anytime since the early 1950s. It is very possible that HD will be covered in snow or ice or (possibly worse) melting snow/ice in May. Plan accordingly!
@BackcountryPilgrim Thank you so much! This is amazing detail and really looking forward to experimenting with all the different combos of things I ordered! Re: May this year, yes-- the irony is I may end up lugging all that stuff for nothing, 🤦♀️🤣.
@@NYCtoBoston Did you make the hike ? I'd never do something like this but if I were to try it I would buy the best equipment made for this type of sport. Even if I had to use a credit card and pay it off after the hike.
@@djg5950 We did make the hike! We discovered that we are slow hikers, and as beginners to this kind of thing, we had an abundance of gear and caution, both of which slowed us down (in addition to crazy conditions and a trail that was impossible to find). Historic snowpack = historic snowmelt = historic flooding & snowy conditions. It took us 21.5hrs to hike the full route, including a detour on the way back that crossed over from the upper Mist trail to Clark's Point on John Muir, regaining another 1000 feet in elevation, due to a rockfall that occurred day-of, closing off part of the trail! I should add that our hike was more like 19 miles, due to having to hike from parking lot + detours. In a way, the cable portion itself was the least of our worries, due to Backcountry Pilgrim's great advice. We were genuinely prepared for everything we encountered on the hike, due to our research and preparation in the months ahead of time.
That’s why you use a shorter graded rope and carabiner wile descending the cables. Obviously if you have that much space between you and the rope then the fall is going to be a lot worse than assumed or fatal. But yet again get ( graded rope or harness ) and you’ll be good.
Or double up the sling, got a few options. The trouble with simply shortening the connection is that you get stuck making the changeover off the step and sometimes you can't easily stop until you're on it.
Thanks! I've looked at it from every angle I can (the best was the Diving Board, but Mirror Lake's not too shabby either)! :) I'm not much of a climber so Snake Dike etc. are out for me for the foreseeable future. ;)
Intel: "From 2005 to 2010, there have been at least 13 deaths, 291 accidents and 140 search-and-rescue missions on Half Dome according to an article in SFGATE. "
Thanks for the stats, I wonder what the numbers are today? I think the permit system started in 2010 and I believe the numbers dropped, but maybe not significantly.
My father climbed it in his 60’s. I’m now in my 60’s. I would not attempt w/o cables. My hardest hike so far is the Timberline trail. Next will be John Muir. I have backpacked in Yosemite, but not around this vicinity. Permits are difficult. Yosemite miles are different than any other miles.
Permits are one of the difficulties for sure. When your dad did it there weren't 1,000 people a day trying it with him! Now we have to deal with the crowds. Timberline is legit! I've done 30+ in Yosemite at a time and yeah they can be brutal!
Something to note on some of the video clips of gear with cables down - you only need one prusik knot, two were shown. The backup connector can be a simple carabiner on a sling, since you only need the second connection when actually at an anchor point to secure yourself while moving the prusik knot. This is easier than moving two prusik knots up the whole way.
Thanks! The second prusik is shown as a backup to failure, not just a temporary anchor when transitioning. Maybe overkill, but I wanted the option shown. ;)
While I get what you're saying about how using a sling + carabiner is a bad idea, my thinking is this: If you fall while using this system, sure it's shock loading the static sling, but it's still better than nothing. Chances are, you won't fall - that's why most people don't use anything. However, in the case that you did fall, it really doesn't do any harm. Additionally, you may not even shock load the sling very badly, since you will be sliding rather than freefalling.
It is true (if circular) that if it doesn't do any harm that it is better than nothing. So if that is the choice, I'd go with the static sling over nothing. But that doesn't make it a good idea compared to using a non-static system - and since that is pretty easily achieved, that's my recommendation. One thing I guess I did not emphasize enough is that one danger is other people. Since people have fallen and 300 a day climb HD, I am also looking at getting knocked down by a falling body, object, or maybe having to make a dangerous move because someone freezes up. Unlikely but these have all happened more than once., So even if I am 100% confident I won't be a problem, I am less confident about the 299 others. :)
After climbing half Dome cables in 2015 with my daughter I wondered why there is no sentence like "Harness and Via-ferrata-Set recommended" in the description. In Europe, where we have so many Via Ferratas, everyone knows that you need such in areas with cables, where you might fall down when your arms get tired or someone slips on you ccause of any reason. Drinking Coffee seems more dangerous in USA, cause you get warned it might be hot (something you don't see in Europe, cause everybody knows) I should have looked your video before, in the normal videos Half Dome does not seem so steep as its in reality. We do Via Ferratas in Europe, so we have experience. But we went wrong estimating Half Dome steepness
I did half dome once in my thirties…that was enough for me. We started at 5 am so it wasn’t crowded going up the cables. We hung out for a couple hours and when it was time to come down it was hella crowded. I looked at my buddy and we stepped outside the cables and flew down the rock grabbing on with each leap. Not recommended but we pulled it off…😜
Currently trying to figure out if this is something I want/can do and not gonna lie, I'm a little terrified! I have the chance to do it with a friend this weekend, but I'm afraid of not being fit enough to do the cables, and the last thing I want is slipping and endangering other people! 😬 Thank you for the very helpful video!
You won't know until you're up there. The hike to the saddle is epic by itself, so you might as well try that. Then if you feel decent when you arrive, you can just start up the cables and if it gets to where you don't feel safe, just switch directions and descend! :)
@@BackcountryPilgrim Definitely planning on just going as far as I can, one step at a time! Would be the most insane hike ever if I complete it, but I also feel no pressure to do it if I don't feel it. Thank you for your advice!
Good video, but here are a few more points: You described the cables being put up "some years ago", which is true. However, this may be taken as the cable has been a recent installation, which it is not. The cables have been there for over a hundred years. Next point, even using a harness with slings and carabiners attached to the cables when the cables are up is extremely dangerous to both you and other hikers. It is dangerous to you for the reasons you mentioned that it statically loads slings and carabiners with forces that could cause them to break (a true via ferrata harness tether will reduce this, but not eliminate the danger). The cables are NOT intended as via ferrata cables like you have in Europe. Next, if you do fall and your carabiner/sling tether slides down, it will hit the hands of the person behind you coming up, likely knocking them off the cables. You could cause their death. The cables are NOT via ferrata cables and should not be used as such. This is important both if you are experienced with via ferratas as well as if you are not experienced with via ferratas.
Good point about the possibility of a sliding carabiner affecting others. If it was a via faratta everyone would be clipped in and would be separated by sections.
I clip directly to the cables but add a yates screamer which is all sewn up tight but under load they rip their sewing out while they lengthen to absorb shock. I tried the prussik but it was a hassle to push it up the cable and pass the anchors.
So a kind of DIY via feratta setup. Cool. But it would not catch between anchors right? Could be a long slide/tumble if you actually needed it, but better than going over the side!
somewhat pointless as via feratta clip doesn't allow you stop like a prusik knot. whole point of cable only is having a transit & stoppable link. 400 foot down the cable will still be a body collection.
Wow, I commented earlier. I’m, 60, I’m a backpacker, not a mountaineer. My late father did this in his mid-sixties, I would go if you or someone like you could guide me.
Thanks for the video! Is there any concern of slipping while using the prussic and shredding it ? Also, will the hike until sub-dome be very difficult in mid-April or is the difficulty at the top ?
I don't think that would happen. The cables are pretty smooth and a Prusik should bind up fast enough to not slide anyway. The hike up is hard anytime for me haha, but if you mean technically difficult - it will depend on the snow / water situation. April is often "late winter" for Yosemite - you could easily have ice and snow on the trails and/or high water due to melt. The snow hasn't been super deep this year so far though, so it's a tough call.
Love this video, thanks for making it. We're going to Yosemite with backcountry permit the week of July 19. It's unclear if cables will be up or down, and I'd like to be prepared for both. Rather than buying the personal anchor system ($44) could I get away with using the sling runner to connect my harness to a Prusik loop (if cables down) OR carabiner (if cables up)? Or does the Prusik loop somehow require a personal anchor system?
They should be up. The snow is nearly gone already and it's raining all week which could finish it off. But as far as your gear question, replacing a PAS with a sling should be fine as long as it's the right length (the adjustment of which is the PAS's unique purpose).
Make sure you can hike 16 miles at higher elevation before you can attempt this climb. I don't care what anyone says, 16 miles in one day is a hell of a hike. It's not just climbing that last 400 ft it's coming down that 400 ft. A more enjoyable doming experience can be had off the Tioga Road near Lake Tenaya. Try that first before you tackle Half Dome
Hello! Thank you for this video! Very informative! My husband and I are planning to hike half dome during the off season in the middle of April. Is it safe to hike during that time like icy condition or it would be ok as long as we have proper hiking equipment? Harness etc. Your recommendation would greatly appreciated. Thanks!
It is likely that the conditions will be snowy, icy, and/or "melty" haha. For the approach I'd bring ice spikes (see ua-cam.com/video/FpAC3b8mqWk/v-deo.html).
I am already getting ready to visit Yosemite in June having won a permit for Happy Isles->Little Yosemite Valley for backpacking and plan to arrive two days early for my first time visiting the valley. I am not sure if I could psychologically handle hiking to the top of half dome even with the cables but at least plan to hike to the sub dome at the base of the cables. Is Little Yosemite Valley the only location to safely store gear while hiking to half dome. Is there any where near where the Half Dome trail seperates from the John Muir trail to store a backpack for example and then later collect the gear to backpack to Sunrise High Sierra Camp. I wonder about bringing a running vest to use for gear for the base or top of half dome.
The only places to leave gear are the LYV backpacker camp (which is not secured) or just leave it off trail somewhere. BUT if you're packing food for a continued trip I wouldn't do it. (Or, if you must, leave your bear canister somewhere else!) A running vest would be good for the summit if you have room for whatever you plan to bring, definitely don't need a full pack!
I climbed Half Dome in my Teens, I had no harness, no carabiner, wearing $20 hiking boots from Big 5, and the gloves I wore were cycling gloves no real grip. It felt slippery to me. I won't be climbing it again.
Yeah it can totally be done without gear - just like rock climbing, it's 90% for safety and 10% climbing. As long as you don't fall, you don't need it at all! ;)
@@BackcountryPilgrim Well it was the 90s, not as many people going up and down. And I was much younger and dumber then. If I had to do it again, probably won't be, but I'd bring gear.
Climbed my first time 2 days ago May 21. Incredible experience. Did the full hike from parking till the top. I put on a harness and a sling but never used it, just let it hang and kept going. It was just pure adrenaline. The chains were up but there was a stretch in the middle with no planks for about 4 sets of poles. Didn't matter gripped the chains and rested on poles. A good cheap pair of gardener gloves did the trick.
@@BackcountryPilgrim I know but reading comprehension and paying attention after it has been said many times bothers me. Words,desrcriptions,definitions and nomenclature matters. Safety and communication matters to all of us. Shooting sports,climbing,hiking etc. I recognize that am being a petty douche. I can square with that. I want people to return to their families. Safe.
Ugh, Amazon is so annoying haha. I fixed the ones I found so far but yes any proper climbing harness will do. If you want to make it easier on yourself and just get a Via Ferrata lanyard, mine is the CAMP Kinetic Gyro Rewind Pro (amzn.to/3TfPH9v) but the Black Diamond Iron Cruiser (amzn.to/3zNx6ek) or Petzl's Easy Rider (amzn.to/3T8SC44) will work too.
So with cables up you can do it just with gloves. With cables down you better have equipment. Is that the gist of it? Also, is there some store e.g. in Fresno where you can buy all that stuff (harness, slings,...)?
Personally I still use safety gear even with them up. I think everyone who has died on HD the cables were up. They're not a safety system really. Anyway, there is a decent REI in Fresno that stocks climbing gear. Yosemite itself has a very good climbing store near the east end of the valley. Personally I'd want all my stuff to familiarize myself with before I went. :)
@@peanut1001x Nah. I did it last year just with gloves and it was fine (but the gloves you def. need!). You do not need any protection gear. IMO it is overprotective to advice for these, kind of like helicopter parents do too much.
Is it really difficult to find the path if you hike in the snow? I have experience hiking in snow but never at Half Dome. I was thinking of hiking half dome in mid November. I have all the safety gear I need, just unfamiliar with the route.
I have not done the route in the snow nut I don't think it would be too bad. (My fiest time yp Clouds Eest was in snow and it wasnt terrible.) I personally wouldn't want to be on the domes with snow or ice though!
Thank you for potentially saving someone’s life. This is the best advice on hiking (or should I say climbing?) Half Dome. You obviously know what you’re talking about and recommend the safe way to do it. The guys on the video which you call out did it with the cables down and used carabiners and tethers without even a via ferrata shock absorbing system. I felt it my civic duty to post a comment on their video (and reference yours) warning people that they could just as well have had no gear and “free soloed” it because (as you say) chances are that with a fall factor well over 2, their gear will probably fail and even if it doesn’t fail, a massive amount of force will be generated on their bodies. Even with the cables up, it’s still basically a low angle slab and though technically easy, people need to understand exposure and think about the consequences of a potential fall.
I heard there are a lot of legal issues and someone can get in a lot of trouble for acting as a professional guide in the park. But now I realize it was a rock climber who told me that so I need to look into it more!
What I find absolutely perplexing to understand is how dozens, if not hundreds of people, are NOT killed each year doing this. Considering that hordes of out-of-shape, totally inexperienced, everyday people do this without any base knowledge or equipment, without falling--and taking everyone else beneath them--to the abyss. I presume that this climb, which you liken to scaling a 40 story building, requires incredible upper body strength. And yet I see obese housewives, beer belly men, gawky school kids, and grandparents doing this without incident. How is this possible?
i heard a young woman in her 20s died by falling to her death it sucked i heard of this looks dangerous im a rock climber i took a risk on outside bouldering in bishop i was sight nervous & i didn’t fall before.
@@BackcountryPilgrim im 7 years experienced at rock climbing it looks interesting the half dome but to be honest i have this thing for falling its just not me
#1 rule: Don't be stupid! Treat the hike as life or death meaning it can be one of the best memories of your life or the worst...dont try to be a daredevil and try to get that selfie that could cost you your life of the life of someone else.
Unreal that they don’t have a proper Via Ferrata fixed with so many novices climbing 🧗 The park authority is extremely negligent to allow all and sundry to pile up that sketchy cable system!!
It's not the parks job to make climbing safe for people but if they're going to act like they have, then it ought to be! Im.makimg a video about this issue coming out soon.
The more safety that's added, the more people who will attempt. There will always be people who are under prepared. It's a national park, not a theme park
@@NitroniumGaming I beg to differ as I think it is a theme park these days. Who wants to climb a granite trail that has been worn smooth by years of thousands of hikers using the same spot to climb this dangerous rock. People are doing it for adrenaline and validation rather than for fun and/or connection with nature. Theme parks make their living on adrenaline and validation, thus, I believe Half Dome is more like a theme park than anything else. Angels Landing falls into that category as well.
@@TruthDragon. people are definitely treating it like a theme park. And sometimes nature reminds of the otherwise. I'm not sure what the solution is, but increasing accessibility is probably not the answer.for the preservation of the park, we can't make trails more and more accessible.
I climbed Half Dome via the cables twice, the last time on my 70th birthday. This was before they initiated the permit requirement. With the cables down there are no posts to provide an anchor if you fall and have the carabiner harness on, it will catch on the post and stop you. But with the cables down, the cable is like a one and a half inch metal tube that goes to the bottom with no obstructions to stop you, providing no protection. Not smart climbing.
Actually there are several cables mounted in the rock so there are several "stops" along the way. :) Also, if you watch the video I show how to climb even more safely with the cables down than up.
Thanks for the information. The guy you show on why the sling doesn't work, his whole channel is just to show his wife's ass off to get clicks, just start an only fans channel and get it over with. I wouldn't trust his channel for anything. The few videos I watched were reckless and foolish and would get someone killed if they followed that couple's advice.
@@allanfifield8256 I watched some of their other videos. They do unsafe and even stupid things on their hikes that if people follow, could end up getting people hurt. The reason for their channel is too show off the guys wife. Who goes climbing up mountains in thongs?
I’ve climbed half dome and the ranger expressly told us not to use any harnesses or mountaineering equipment and checked whether people had them. He didn’t forbid using them but he was very antagonistic to using anything but gloves. Accidents are exceptionally rare and clipping in is slow. I also seriously doubt a noob should climb cables down at all without formal training. You’re comfortable with all these complicated knot systems because you obviously have an engineering mind. Most people don’t and they should stay away from this complexity because it’s far more likely they screw this up under the stress of HD. It’s one thing to practice at home but it’s much different climbing under pressure. They’re also tired from a gruesome hike. For the majority of people I agree with the ranger - KISS. Go with cables up, get behind someone who looks comfortable and athletic, get your gloves, hold on, rest at each pole. You can also go late in the season after school starts (during the week) and crowds are not bad.
First, this advice is only for cables up. Second, I disagree anyway. Several of the people who have died climbing HD would not have if they had safety gear. Further, even if someone is confident, they can get taken out by someone else slipping. All of this is covered in the video.
@@BackcountryPilgrimrun the numbers. 300 people per day every season, every year for decades. Exceptionally few deaths. They don’t even average 1 per year. You also can’t say that that rate would fall if there was an increase in harness usage. The slowness and misuse of harnesses could increase the risk that unharnessed people die,or that harnessed people climb with an unwarranted level of confidence given their facility with the equipment. You fall ten feet with a harness on and smack that pole with your head because you think you’re safe you’re going to be in a world of hurt. Meanwhile if you dial in with gloves and focus you’ll be fine. That’s why things like this require studies which haven’t been done. Also, 3/4 of deaths were because of rain. If you’re stuck at the top I would not climb down even with a harness - I’d call for rescue. And you sure aren’t climbing up. I appreciate the perspective but I think between park rangers who sit there and watch people do this every day and random UA-cam guy the park rangers are the real experts here.
First, you are confusing the opinion of one ranger with "the rangers" and that one may just be ignorant. (I'd be more apt to listen if they were trained climbing rangers rather than permit checkers.) Second, the fact that you're complaining about how slow clipping is but also think it's ok to take a break at the poles is interesting since those are the only places where clipping takes place. Third, if you'd stay up on HD during a storm...well, good luck with that. (Hint: the real issue is lightning not rain). Finally, 100% of people clipped in didn't slip and fall to their deaths, but if you're happy with a slightly worse number to avoid "slowing down," then maybe you should rethink your priorities. - Sincerely, Some Random UA-camr
@@BackcountryPilgrim the ranger statements reflect park policy. They don’t have the freedom to just make up whatever they want working for a National Park. They’re trained to give this advice. You also ignored the majority of the argument because the statistics are solid on safety. What you’re effectively advocating is that it’s safer for a noob to go during the off season and use a complicated clip-in strategy with a downed cable then it is to simply go during the season and not clip in. Your evidence is essentially “people have died therefore this is better” (and “crowds” ) even if the number of dead is waaaayyy less than 0.1% - something like sub 10 asfak actually falling on the cables). I would agree with you that clip could reduce the already small risk of everything was done properly with cables up. I don’t agree that noobs going off season is a good policy in general because of weather, higher risk of failure to summit, and odds of messing up the tie in system. Just do what everyone else does and you’ll summit safely. Re staying on top in a rainstorm all I’m saying is you’re not safely climbing in the rain. If there’s any threat you have to abandon; again official park advice also.
@Calidastas I am not advocating for "noobs" to use a complicated system (although it is a system which, according to the stats, has had a zero percent death rate). I am explaining the various options that exist for climbing Half Dome. There is no park policy against any of these methods. If you don't think some are good methods, that's fine - but don't pretend you have park policy or stats on your side by advocating a gearless climb.
This is an important video. LISTEN TO THIS MAN. The day after we climbed HD a women slipped and fell the whole way down. She was dead before she hit the bottom. She was young and in great sharp too- tragic. 2019 Danielle Burnett. I saw the activity. They did not even pull her into the helicopter. I recall she was dangling beneath it all the way back down to the valley. Not a rescue- a recovery. She had a HARNESS but was not clipped on and it started raining.
Tragic. People hear about 300 people a day (including kids) climbing HD and think it's a walk in the park. Like most of the outdoors, tourist parks like Yosemite included, it *can* be - but sometimes it isn't.
@@DarrylGallardo-n5z Nah. It was just her time. God took her home. I also bumped into her savior the day before- her spiritual guide in the form of a bear sliding off a nearby mountain. When I was also in the valley I accidentally took his picture. I did not even see it at first- it was pointed out to me by another person when I was showing my vacation pics at a holiday party. There he is- clear as day sliding off the mountain arms outstretched- just like her. Then I could not unsee it. Then I connected it with what happened to her. Then I learned about the spritual power of bears. It all made sense. BTW- I am more a scientific/facts type guy- studied Engineering. I am not usually all about these other things- but clearly they are real once you are tuned into them. We also stood there when the helicopter brought her body back- it hung far below the chopper. God works in mysterious ways. And she did have a harness. It just was not attached when the weather and god came in and took her that fateful day.
Doug your video has good information however I don't agree with the recommendation to use a harnesses. Ive climbed HD 8 times including 2 last Summer with cables up. I find that people using a harness slow the ascent for everyone behind them and create a dangerous, unnecessary bottleneck as they clip-in/clip-out after each post. Instead of wearing a harness people should train ahead of time to build upper body strength to support their weight. Also, if you walk on the outside of the cables, there's much better traction so you can use your legs more. I wish they would ban harnesses - i feel it makes the hike more dangerous for everyone. If you think you need a harness maybe that's a sign that you should not do this hike.
I disagree for three reasosns just off the top of my head. First, the issue is fall safety not ones physical shape (which a harness does not really help with). Second, given the possibility of someone else falling into someone else, physical shape also does not matter. Third, if those on the line are in good shape the clipping won't slow them down much and if they arent, their pace will be slow no matter what. If you want to move faster than the crowd and think the outside cable route is better, why not just take it and not try to set the conditions for others?
@Backcountry Pilgrim clipping in def slows people down and causes more bottlenecks. Falling on HD is a non-issue if you're prepared and in shape. Promoting harnesses on HD decreases safety and likely encourages more overweight, out of shape, less prepared novices from attempting this hike. The main reason I've used the outside route on the ropes is bc of bottlenecks caused by harness novices clogging the middle route.
Even if clipping is an issue, my other two points remain true, and fortunately for the slow tourists you're not the standard. And fortunately for you, real rock climbers who don't use the cables aren't the standard. And fortunately for them, elite soloists ho use no gear at all aren't the standard. It's easy to draw the line at yourself.
@@franchr if you see people clipping up ahead then wait a little longer before you even start your ascent…. Stop being dumb and trying to rush an ascent when you see a slower climber up ahead. Just wait at the bottom and start a little better
@Tornadospeed10 dumb? Lol. I don't wait for anyone I just go up on the outside. My comments are more about the overall stream of people going up and down in the middle. Clipping in and out slows everyone down unnecessarily. HD is not for everyone. If you need a harness you prob shouldn't be doing it in the first place. Using harnesses makes it less safe for everyone bc it encourages unqualified people to attempt and also increases the amount of time people are on the ropes waiting for person in front of them.
The info in this video is generally excellent. However, I don't understand why after correctly saying to avoid a dangerous safety system involving static slings that are not meant be fallen on, you later at 14:45 recommend a "safety" system made from a static sling that is not meant to be fallen on. Creating two loops for carabiners is just creating the illusion of safety. Slings are meant to take static loads, and your set up has virtually zero energy absorption capability. All you really have is what little would be absorbed by the central knot tightening up if you fell on it, and I would suggest you wouldn't want to trust your life to such a set up. This advice is paradoxical to your earlier correct advice to not use such a setup. If I had $1 every time an American misused climbing equipment whilst claiming to be safe I could retire. At 18:00 you show yourself using a looped PAS. Yes this is better than anyone foolish enough to use a daisy chain, and yes this is slightly better if you avoid slack to your Prusik knot but that's not necessarily easy to do when taking steps up/down such a slope. The clue is in the name - it's a static anchor system, not an energy absorber, so you're relying on the much weaker Prusik cord to do do most of the energy absorption and that's also not designed for or strong enough for shock loading. If you want to use such a setup, so be it, but you need to keep minimal slack between you and the Prusik to reduce the risk of the system failing if you fell.
Thank you for your kudos and critical comments, please allow me to explain my reasoning concerning the latter. At 14:45 I am speaking of climbing Half Dome with the cables up. This creates a situation in which (if one is clipped in) it would be nearly impossible to free fall. So the kinds of forces generated in real (class 5) climbing are not the standard for measuring this safety gear. The climb itself is basically a class 3 scramble - so if one is clipped in, a short slip and slide should be the worst one should expect. Further, the cables themselves create a more dynamic system than if the safety gear were attached to an anchor. Only if one managed to go past the pole connection would the system become static, but again not in free fall. A full via ferrata setup would be great, but it is not the necessity it is on a VF route which can generate fall factors even greater than 2. The purpose of creating two loops is, as stated in the video, for making transitions over poles without becoming unattached to the cables and thus is not a safety illusion at all. At 18:00 am speaking of climbing Half Dome with the cables down. In this case you avoid slack in your Prusik hitch setup by keeping the cord short (as I show in the video). In fact, one of the main purposes of this setup is to allow one to simply lean back to stop for breaks - something that would be difficult to do if the cord length was much beyond arm length. Thus a “fall” would be little more dramatic than simply stopping. Finally, sliding a Prusik along the cables as you step is easier than with climbing rope as the cables are smoother (yet still hold when the hitch binds). I think it is also important to remember that thousands and thousands of people accomplish this climb annually without incident. Most of them do it without any backup safety system at all, and some even go so far as to argue that using such a safety system is useless or even dangerous (in fact you can find a couple comments to that effect here). I made this video to counter those views as well as help those who may have never even considered using a safety system in the first place. Finally the quip about American climbers is rather ironic considering that modern rock climbing was born here haha. ;)
@@BackcountryPilgrim Hey dude, thanks for responding! :) My reference to an illusion of safety was more to do with the system still using a sling which earlier was criticised (the photos shown at 1:31 and 1:38 both showed 2 carabiners for example), rather than the use of 2 carabiners being illusory in and of itself, if that clarifies what I was trying to say. On rewatching I think the point in the middle of that earlier section on it not being so bad when the poles are up and it being a dangerous solution when the poles are down was lost on my first viewing. And of course your two solutions do make a clear distinction between poles up and poles down. I think your conclusion is fair: with the poles down, someone dragging a carabiner or two up on a sling (or two :D ) could well end up out of control and accelerating before the next cable anchor point caught the system, so yes, there's a higher risk of it simply breaking. Someone doing that is kidding themselves and anyone they happen to be advocating that to. I think also someone using a simple snap-gate carabiner in that situation could be at greater risk if the carabiner stopping against the cable anchors were to twist, although at that point they're probably regretting their choices anyway 🙃 On the later Prusik section, I also agree with your approach on keeping the link to the Prusik short. At the end of the day, it's an awkward location to try and improve safety on, so there are compromises to be made (such as not having to faff too much with the poles every 10 feet when surrounded by people) and I think in what you propose is fair for those who don't want to rely solely on their ability to hold the cables. On second viewing I think what you're advising against in that regard and the circumstances in which you advise against it are clear. This clarifies what were for me a couple of niggles in a video I thoroughly enjoyed. Thanks! 🙂👍
How about climb half dome never and never have to care about the status of the cables. That said, it would seem that anyone attempting to climb half dome without spending a lot of time buying and learning how to use proper safety/climbing equipment is being negligent. Half dome really is just an easy climb up the face of a mountain and those climbing it should know how to climb mountains and be fit enough to do so.
I think the problem is that the gap between these two statements isn't appreciated enough. Its easy to see how somelne could wonder why - if it's just an easy climb - they should need to spend time on gear and fitness? It should be stressed that both are true!
I thought about climbing this when I was younger. But now that I’m older like 72 I am too old. Even if I wasn’t too old, one thing that stopped me was I felt it was too dangerous. And I still think it is today too dangerous. I watch Dave UA-cam video yesterday and watch a lady slide down the mountain and hit a pole between her legs. Oh, I bet that really hurt sleet, snow and rain on the way up slipsliding one lady slipped clear off the mountain, then fell about 80 feet thankfully she is alive, but not in very good shape. People climb that mountain. It’s a death trap, it even scares me just to look at it I wouldn’t climate if you paid me to I want to live not die ha ha. I think they need to close it permanently and don’t let people on it anymore. It’s too damn dangerous.💀☠️👎🤷♂️🤷♂️😖😡👎
Over 300 people a day successfully climb this "death trap" in season, so I do not think such a title is warranted. Further, closing this route would set a terrible standard. There are MANY places and activities in Yosemite that are more dangerous than climbing Half Dome on the cables. I for one do not wish to see the park overregulated like so many other popular destinations.
@@BackcountryPilgrim Yeah, they are. I think what the commenter was probably driving at was a via ferrata set attached to a harness, and the utility of having some realistic energy absorption to help with falls where momentum is gained (as opposed to a slip where you land straight on your backside and go nowhere thanks to friction).
For those concerned about Half Dome's safety history, keep in mind that in the 100+ years since the cables were put up, there have been about 15 accidental deaths on Half Dome.* Given that over 300 people a day are allowed to climb it in the on season, that is not a high percentage. Nor, in fact, is it even a high number for the park. More have died on Yosemite's most popular trail (the Mist Trail), and about 15 visitors die in Yosemite each year. Yes, climbing Half Dome is dangerous, but there are far more dangerous areas and activities being done in Yosemite on a daily basis. On the other hand, there are some who say safety gear should not be used. I strongly disagree - everyone should do what they're comfortable with. Please keep comments realistic and respectful!
*For details, see theworldtravelguy.com/half-dome-deaths/#How_Many_People_Have_Died_On_Half_Dome
I was on Half Dome in 2015 with my daughter. In Europe such a tour had the sentence "Harness and Via-Ferrata-Set recommended" in the description. In USA drinking hot coffee seems to be more dangerous than cable-climbing, cause you get warned that coffee might be too hot. But not get warned you should bring climbing-safety-equipment into a tour you might fall down if something goes wrong...
Excellent overview especially on the clipping in part. By backpacking in vs day hiking do you mean camping overnight somewhere along the way between the parking lot and the sub dome?
That is a perfect summary of the issue!
Yes, exactly. :)
@@BackcountryPilgrim Ah, is that the “wilderness pass” thing? Or can anyone do that without any special permit?
Having watched tons of videos, and physically training, I completed Half Dome June 2023. Your video is by far the best!!. We used a via ferrata system which we practiced with before hand. The one downside is the leaning out to move your clips.
I wore Altras and they worked great. We brought a water filter. We just used silicone type garden gloves.
Training for me, a 40 yo woman, consisted of pull up training, stairclimber, lifting weights, and practice hikes. We started at 6am and were at the cables by 10ish.
Well done!!! Glad the video helped. :)
Very inspiring!
Thanks Doug, I climbed Half Dome cables down the end of October. Your videos, advice and gear recommendations were a huge help on preparing and having a great experience AND key safe climb for this novice climber!!!
That makes it all worth it! Thank you for letting me know. :)
One major consideration for climbing cables up or down is your hand grip and forearm stamina. My problem going up was depending too much on pulling my body weight up using my arms. Halfway up the cables my hands and forearms were fatigued to failure. I was not wearing safety gear so I depended on my hands to prevent a fall. This meant frequent stops to relieve my muscle fatigue. In addition to that, my gloves were not grippy enough. They were cloth gardening gloves that slipped on the smooth polished cable. So I expended excessive strength trying to ensure a safe grip. Grippy shoes and grippy gloves will make the ascent a lot easier, and a safety harness with tether will make it psychologically more enjoyable.
Yup, I discuss gloves in the video and it's almost best to have two pairs because the way down you kind of want to be able to slide a bit. Good point of grip - if you're relying on the cables to get you up it's gonna be rough! This is another reason I think that cables down can be safer because you can sytop and let go anytime if you're using the right gear. :)
I hiked half dome once in 2015. I thought I was in good shape at 45 , but was embarrassed at falling behind just about everyone along the way. I packed everything that was recommended for the full hike, including a water filtration system for when I stopped to refill at the Merced River. I won’t carry as much again. (I also wondered about those camping along the river in the valley and whether it was ok to leave all your gear there while finishing the HD hike. Would I return to find all my gear stolen?). I was passed by teens in running shorts, trail runners, and a single large water bottle-that was all! My achilles grew painful in the wooden stretch just before the sub dome and I hobbled the rest of the way to the cables. Although I began hiking before 0700, I reached them after 1500. I as ended with my backpack wearing only gloves as additional gear. I wondered if I would cramp up on the rock, but it was nearly empty by that hour-nearly everyone having passed me on their way down through the forest-and I gave it a go. Ascending the cables wasn’t as difficult as I imagined, but I could visualize someone ahead of me slipping-the rock was glassy in spots-and wiping out a line of people waiting behind all the way to the bottom. IMO, HD should be converted to via ferrata as a permit requirement. Sure 999/1,000 times or more nothing bad happens, but looking at it objectively, every ascent is a huge risk. People chat and stop and look around as they ascend and descend and one moment of distraction can wipe out a dozen people below. It can’t be that much of a sacrifice to better equip the rock and the climbers-after all it’s common in Europe.
End of the story was that I spent 40 minutes on top with possibly three others up there with me-and it’s so much bigger and even than you’d imagine. You could build an entire subdivision on top, yet from a distance it looks narrow and steep all the way around. Literally a dozen horizontal acres. I came down alone, after 1700 met and convinced another hiker to turn back as the East side would soon be in shadows. We hiked back together, ran straight into a bear in the forest below the sun dome, got checked for permits by a heavily-laden ranger on his way up, and within an hour or so were in complete darkness. We hiked in darkness until we reached the bus stop near the village. It was great, but definitely on the edge of a “tourist” hike and you really need to be in shape for the distance and elevation gain before you attempt it.
Thank you for sharing this, it's a very good cautionary tale. Sounds like you made good choices!
I agree with you. It should be converted into a via ferrata when the cables are up. The exposure is just too great and the consequences of a fall are potentially catastrophic. When the cables are down you must use friction hitches.
Excellent information. Thank you. I climbed Half Dome 30 years ago with my girl friend at the time. Did the long day hike, tennis shoes, no gloves, no permits and my girl friend froze about half up the cables. I told her to swallow hard and just keep going. After several tense minutes she started up again and we finally made it to the top. The feeling was so euphoric......it was amazing. The hike back down was almost more nerve wracking. No one wore any sort of harness or safety system the day I climbed up. I'm 63 now and feel the I'm too old to attempt again.
Good job! Today it's so crowded thr harness is more about not getting knocked over lol!
Thank you, Doug. Excellent safety tips. Your videos are valuable, educational, and informative. You are providing good information to help people enjoy the outdoors and stay safe, so thank you!
I very much appreciate you saying that! Thank you! :)
As someone with plenty of backpacking and zero climbing experience, i appreciate the rationale/limitations for the climbing systems. Thank you
Glad it helped!
That would be my worst fear doing this is to be behind someone that freezes up while climbing.All about helping someone out, but I don't want to be someone life coach when I am strapped to a mountain trying to reach the summit. Glad you had this experience. Looks awesome!
Yeah not a good place to have to talk someone down! Come on out and we'll do this!
@@BackcountryPilgrim this would be awesome!!
Name the time!
I did the cable route before the permit system and the crowds were very annoying. But I didn't find they added any additional danger for myself. I'm experienced rock climber, had climbed Bishop's Terrace before heading to Half Dome -- and just proceeded with caution and kept my eye out for anyone having trouble above me. I also waited until the later part of the day when most people had already descended. Still had plenty of time to get up, enjoy the view and the descent was free of any other hikers. Made it back to the car just as it got dark. I think with the limit to 300-400 people you have a much better chance at avoiding being there when there are exactly 300 people.
Cables down looks fun -- if there isn't run-off from snow. Also, I heard in your other video that during those off-season windows before it gets really cold and snowy and wet -- there are often crowds climbing the downed cables. That would be my least favorite ascent -- going up the down cables by prusik with lots of people in front of me and behind.
Great video by the way. More people need to think about wearing approach shoes for the cables -- whether up or down!
Yeah it's not nearly as crowded cables down but you have a greater chance of blocking because it's more difficult to pass. Still fun though!
I used a Via Ferrata, I trust my climbing abilities, I don’t trust others.
An important distinction many miss!
Yes Ilike your no nonsense description very much. I'll be thinking about how you helped me when I'm climbing the half dome (one day).
Climbing half dome with the cables down is much safer if you use Prusik or klemheist knots than a via Ferrata with the cables up
With the additional danger of the crowds for sure. :)
You have a great gift of communicating with clarity. Thanks for posting this. Very thorough.
You're very welcome!
@@BackcountryPilgrim I am planning to hike up this October, after the cables are down, and to be honest, I was planning on doing it with just the carabiners, like many others have done. But I have never been there before. Hence the reason for watching your video.
I do understand the caution given by many folks like yourself, for this approach, but aren't most of those recommendations for climbing gear based off of climbing vertically, while hanging from ropes?
Isn't it different while hiking up rock? E.g. if one were to slip and lose grip of the cable, wouldn't their body on the rock be enough resistance to keep from going into a freefall? Or at least enough resistance to slow the sliding so that the carabiner could easily stop them at the next connection point? And wouldn't this be only for an extreme situation where somebody might pass out or something, which could be deadly on nearly ANY hike in the mountains near drop-offs.
As I said, I have never hiked this mountain, so I am only asking based on what rocks I have climbed without any gear at all. It just SEEMS like with the cable to hold on to, then just the carabiners would be fine. Kind of like climbing up a HIGH extension ladder with only your hands and feet and NO carabiner. As long as we are holding on, no problem.
I preface this by saying that I made both of my Half Dome gear videos for those with little-to-no idea what to do. I'll answer you more precisely and according to what I think your experience level is.
First - yes, the climbing gear mentioned is all made for 90 degree vertical ("class 5") climbing applications. However, there really isn't much else available (45 degree climbing gear? haha!). HD is what I would consider a class 2-3 scramble (which normally does not require safety gear). However, the risk factor is quite high as one can easily get into a deadly fall situation (and several have). Even if an instantaneous free fall isn't at all likely (as it would be in a class 5 climb), a tumble could gain speed and get out of control very quickly. In a cables-up climb that is unlikely. With cables down, it could easily happen at certain points.
So for someone who is in good condition (e.g., doesn't need any rest stops between connection points) and used to class 2-3 climbing, a harness connected to carabiners should be sufficient for cables up and *probably* also cables down. I just want people to understand the risk of a shock load in a legit fall on such a system (which is designed for static holds and not dynamic catches). The BEST would be a Via Ferrata setup which gives you the best of both worlds, but those are expensive for their limited applications.
@@BackcountryPilgrim
Thanks again for taking the time to respond.
I am not super experienced in climbing mountains, especially like those found out west, but I have done plenty of mountain hikes at places like Smoky Mountain National Park, Shenandoah National Park (Old Rag Mountain), the Black Hills, and even Gros Morne National Park up in Newfoundland.
I also do snowshoe trips along Pictured Rocks National Lakeshore, which takes you along some very icy edges of cliffs, while pulling 60-120 lb. sleds full of gear over 2-3 feet deep snow for up to 9 miles\day.
But Half Dome looks to be a different beast that is sure to test my limited endurance (I am NOT a marathon runner, AT ALL. Ha!). Hence my questions.
From what I have seen of videos from others, it looks like something I would try with just the carabiners attached to a waist belt made of climbing webbing, which I already have, but wanted your opinion.
Just use a good harness, strong rope with some give and a one-way cam that has a break if it slides backwards. I did this with the cables up and found it quite easy. Sadly, the next day Danielle B. died- 9.2019. RIP. She had a harness but wasn't clipped in. The weather comes in very quickly- even on a sunny day. She slipped and that was it. IMO, never hike if cables are down. I also found the sub-dome hike tricky- that is the rock just before the big rock. There are no cables or railings and it is a committed area. If you fall, your probably done. Keep in mind, before you get to this final ascent area, your legs are toast from the long hike to get there. We started before sunrise (magical) and it was sunny and hot when we arrived. Good gloves and foot wear and hydration, snacks are all very necessary.
Sounds like a good set up. Which cam did you use? None of mine would not work on a steel cable.
@@BackcountryPilgrim I just use a basic Caribbean or 2
This video is filled with amazing information. Thank you for taking the time to make this.
You bet!
Amazing video. Great analytical skills. I think I watched that video with the carabiner guy... they were just flying up the half dome, but they probably have exp and lower anxiety than normal ppl.
They seem to think they do at least. ;)
@@BackcountryPilgrim ended up going the weekend after the cables came down. loved it. well within my physical capabilities and felt much better/safer w/ klemheists than people running around with dual carabiners. thanks again!
That's because you were safer! :) Well done, glad you enjoyed it!
My main concern with cables up and a simple carabiner and sling is it would likely be side loaded in a fall against those posts. As a retired climber in my 60's I would love to give this a try sometime... preferably off season though. I hate the tourons these sort of hikes tend to attract. Very nice job on this video and thanks.
Thanks for your comment. I am pretty sure the natural pull on the carabiner would keep it from a side load, especially because the cables are basically frictionless but if the sling was tied on maybe. Anyhow I think you'd love it and you'd have the sense to use the gear correctly! Thanks for watching!
Tourons! Love it! 😂
Just came upon your video, and having the dates when the cables are up/down is very informative. Thanks! My fear is getting bumped off the cables by another hiker, so I plan to use a harness/hitch system regardless of when I hike this.
Good call. People often think only of their own abilities when deciding what level of protection to take - not considering that 299 other people have permits for the same day and any one of them could do something dangerous TO YOU. :) I am actually planning a trip very soon with my 11 y.o. daughter and you better believe we're going to be using safety gear even though she can out-climb me and probably most of the folks on the route that day. :).
Excellent point at 1:40, the worst are all the solo lead rope videos posted. A lot of dangerous practices presented as good and safe, with the dominant argument being "this works for me", implying that the practices are safe. .
I've tried some top rope soloing myself but yeah it's sketchy doing things the manufacturers don't say the gear is meant to do!
I did it, and it's simple to describe but hard to make yourself do:
- Bring gloves (I bought a pair of pigskin work gloves and they worked fine).
- Stay on your own side of the path, and don't let go of the cable.
- Rest when you're tired, by sitting on the rock under your cable but out of the main tread, with your feet braced against a crossbar and your hands holding the cable above you.
- Look at your hands on the cable. Look at your feet on the rock. Look at the crossbars. Look at the person ahead of you. BUT:
- DON'T LOOK OUTWARD (There'll be plenty of time for that when you get to the top.) And.....
- DON'T LOOK DOWN.
- When it's time to go down, go backwards.
Well done!
Wife and I made an unsuccessful attempt using prusic loops in October of 2017 with the cables down. One thing that cannot be understated is the weight of the cables and the need to be able to tie these hitches quickly and proficiently. I had not taken enough time to teach her these hitches and have her practice enough beforehand, and this resulted in her needing me to confirm her hitch with every transition. After making it about 2/3 of the way up, we bailed because the moving and transitioning of these hitches along with the weight of the cables had our forearms extremely pumped and we knew that we couldn't spend too much time on the cables because there were plenty of other people who were going up/down. Need to make sure you're aware of people above and below to make sure you aren't hindering their experience.
Sounds like you made a wise decision! Yeah strength and skill become an issue for sure. Avoiding the pump is an argument for not having too much in the way of redundancy but then you have that danger. Trade offs any way its done but hopefully this will make it easier to choose the best ones!
Thanks, Great informative video. I didn’t know the details you advise on but seems exactly right. I Prepared for the hike often but one additional factor is altitude! After hiking up in April? Didn’t hear about needing a permit and met park rangers. Cables were up.. I elected to lay on the rocks and enjoy. Legs had a burned out feeling and I had it in mind I still had to hike down as well. Best for me to have camped and gone the next day.
Sounds like you made the wise choice!
Thanks for this video! I am planning on going to the Park in a little less than two weeks and was bummed when I heard that the cables were down (I thought this meant closed). I was a little nervous after watching other videos on what gear I would need to safely climb this with the cables down as I will be attempting this hike alone. I am in relatively good shape (36 y/o male) but this video really makes me feel more comfortable with what I am taking on. Can't wait to give it a try!
I am glad to help and hope your trip is successful! Let me know how it goes!
I climbed it 50 years ago. Back then, on season was like off season is now as far as people go and no permits were required. I had been rock climbing and was just taking a hiking day off. I found it quite easy and fun. But you are right, if you fell off of it, you would die. It is probably the most dangerous hiking trail in existence. I also didn't think to take gloves but didn't find that to be much of a problem.
Yeah I made the video for tourists / hikers. Climbers should have no trouble. It must have been amazing 50 years ago!
@@BackcountryPilgrim It was indeed although for me I'm thinking it was 35 years ago. Minimal permit or prep needed, check the weather, put your name on a climber register, and go. Might have been 4 others on top when I got there, peak hiking season. I was a newbie rock climber and wanted to check out half dome routes to see if I could do any, but the runout on those routes was way beyond my comfort level. Respect for Yosemite climbers.
There is also the John Muir Trail up which is approx 18 miles round trip. I’ve done both the JMT and Mist Trail up. In my experience, the sub-dome is more dangerous And scary than the Dome itself. My last trip I actually fell on the sub-dome coming down. Loose sand on granite is no joke. Fortunately, I only broke a finger and tore my miniscus. I was very lucky. I highly recommend shoes/boots with very good tread (which I had) it would have been a lot worse if I’d worn sneakers or flip-flops (which I witnessed someone wearing)
Yeah the jmt route is less steep and safer but nearly 2 miles longer. Prep is key!
Good video
I just yesterday did half dome the first time with the cabel down I actually forgot my gloves and because of the snow melt the cables were wet and bear hands did pretty good I had no issues
Right on! Glad you made it!
Yeah the sub dome was the scary part with all the snow having to crawl up and down the Cables were fun amd easy I think having them down is better than up only down side is having to carry the weight of then at the top they do get heavey
Definitely the best video for cables up/down. There's a ton of misinformation on the safety systems, especially from those not experienced with climbing equipment. I already use a Petzl Connect Adjust lanyard for climbing, and was thinking of using that if doing cables up. Thoughts on that? It's dynamic rope material and I feel really solid using that on bolts/master point. Two connection points for the cables of course. Much appreciated on covering literally everything!
Thanks! The Connect does use dynamic rope, but it's much too short to be effective for a free fall. However, you shouldn't be able to achieve a free fall on the cable route and in the scenarios I can imagine I think it would work at least as well as the static systems people use and probably better. If I didn't have a via feratta or some kind of friction plate / screamer (upcoming video!), I'd probably use my Connect.
@@BackcountryPilgrim Thanks! Yeah it occurred to me that the fall forces could easily be a lot higher and the material is short. I actually have the same sling (60cm) that you have the video, but I was fairly unsure of falling some distance on that. Guess I just wanted to avoid purchasing a dedicated item that probably wouldn't be used very much at all besides the cables route.
Very cool. I am not much of a hiker, I'm a free climber, but I really enjoyed learning about this alternative perspective on ascending Half Dome.
Glad you enjoyed it! Maybe I'll hike to the top of something you climb someday!
@@BackcountryPilgrim Almost climbed Half Dome a few years ago, but the stars didn't align that trip. Hopefully I climb to stand and enjoy the same view you've already appreciated.
At least you know you got an easy descent! ;)
@@BackcountryPilgrim That line up you showed made me think that Rappelling was the only easy decent! :)
Nah, Royal Robbins walked down it in Chuck Taylors with a haul bag over his shoulder! ;)
Loved your no-nonsense, detailed explanations the moment I found them. I'm hiking HD in May with the cables DOWN and still struggling a little with the gear descriptions. You mention needing a) a harness (check) and b) a sling OR long prusik cords OR a personal anchor system. Yet, I seem to see multiple "b"s being put together in the video images themselves. IF I am trying to keep costs low, which of the "b" options do I actually need? I see did read replies in the comments like "you could make it easy and purchase x," but the "x" option is out of my price range... Many thanks for your thoughts & clarification!
Thank you for your comment! I understand the gear choices may not be clear if you’re not used to the various pieces. Further, each gear decision adds and subtracts other gear decisions which can add to the confusion! So let me break down the specific decisions more systematically.
The basic idea is that you are connected to the cable for slip safety and so that you can stop in place to rest or work on transitioning your connection at the anchors. The harness holds you and a hitched cord holds the cable. In between these two pieces there may have to be an additional piece to lengthen the system. Because you need to undo your hitch at each anchor in order to transition it, you also want something holding you in place while you use both hands to do that. So . . .
First, decide what kind of hitch you want to use in case it uses a specialized cord.
Second, decide how redundant you want the system to be. For me the minimum is a cord for slipping/stopping and a carabiner for anchor transitions. You may want a backup cord for redundancy or instead of a carabiner. The upside to a carabiner is they slide easily and won’t slow you down - the downside is they won’t help in a slip. The reverse is true for a backup cord.
Third, decide how you want to be connected to the cord(s) and/or carabiner. If the cord is large, there may be enough length left over after tying your hitch to connect it right to your harness (e.g., with a carabiner). If it is small, you’ll something to lengthen the system. If the overall system is too short, you could have trouble moving the cord along the cable because it will be weighted down by it (imagine the cable pulling you down and as you climb and slide the cord along right next to your hip). If the system is too long, it won’t hold you near enough the anchors to be able to reach past them for a transition.
A sling or PAS is an easy way to lengthen the connection (girth hitch to harness plus carabiner to cord). Because this length is difficult to assess until you are on the cables, an adjustable system is valuable. An accessory cord could be tied to the desired length on the spot, but you better know how to do that correctly! Slings are easy to use but not super easy to adjust - additional knots can be tied in them (again if you know what you’re doing). A PAS is adjustable by nature.
I hope that helps!
Oh and another consideration: CA has gotten more snow this winter than anytime since the early 1950s. It is very possible that HD will be covered in snow or ice or (possibly worse) melting snow/ice in May. Plan accordingly!
@BackcountryPilgrim Thank you so much! This is amazing detail and really looking forward to experimenting with all the different combos of things I ordered! Re: May this year, yes-- the irony is I may end up lugging all that stuff for nothing, 🤦♀️🤣.
@@NYCtoBoston Did you make the hike ? I'd never do something like this but if I were to try it I would buy the best equipment made for this type of sport. Even if I had to use a credit card and pay it off after the hike.
@@djg5950 We did make the hike! We discovered that we are slow hikers, and as beginners to this kind of thing, we had an abundance of gear and caution, both of which slowed us down (in addition to crazy conditions and a trail that was impossible to find). Historic snowpack = historic snowmelt = historic flooding & snowy conditions. It took us 21.5hrs to hike the full route, including a detour on the way back that crossed over from the upper Mist trail to Clark's Point on John Muir, regaining another 1000 feet in elevation, due to a rockfall that occurred day-of, closing off part of the trail! I should add that our hike was more like 19 miles, due to having to hike from parking lot + detours. In a way, the cable portion itself was the least of our worries, due to Backcountry Pilgrim's great advice. We were genuinely prepared for everything we encountered on the hike, due to our research and preparation in the months ahead of time.
Wow well done! I'm so glad to help. :)
This was excellent Doug. Thank you
You bet!
That’s why you use a shorter graded rope and carabiner wile descending the cables. Obviously if you have that much space between you and the rope then the fall is going to be a lot worse than assumed or fatal. But yet again get ( graded rope or harness ) and you’ll be good.
Or double up the sling, got a few options. The trouble with simply shortening the connection is that you get stuck making the changeover off the step and sometimes you can't easily stop until you're on it.
Wow. very informative. How about looking at half dome from the base and not using any cables? yabadaba doo. great video.
Thanks! I've looked at it from every angle I can (the best was the Diving Board, but Mirror Lake's not too shabby either)! :) I'm not much of a climber so Snake Dike etc. are out for me for the foreseeable future. ;)
Crap! I watched the video he called out at the beginning right before I watched this video. Sure glad I found this video. -don from Lorain Ohio USA 🇺🇸
TnA generates a lot of hits. ;)
@@BackcountryPilgrim 😎
Same. I knew exactly who he was talking about.
Intel: "From 2005 to 2010, there have been at least 13 deaths, 291 accidents and 140 search-and-rescue missions on Half Dome according to an article in SFGATE. "
Thanks for the stats, I wonder what the numbers are today? I think the permit system started in 2010 and I believe the numbers dropped, but maybe not significantly.
I was there in 2019 when one happened. It got real fast. Very sad RIP Danielle Burnett.
@@BackcountryPilgrim welp add one more death to that list a girl slipped and fell last week
My father climbed it in his 60’s. I’m now in my 60’s. I would not attempt w/o cables. My hardest hike so far is the Timberline trail. Next will be John Muir. I have backpacked in Yosemite, but not around this vicinity. Permits are difficult. Yosemite miles are different than any other miles.
Permits are one of the difficulties for sure. When your dad did it there weren't 1,000 people a day trying it with him! Now we have to deal with the crowds. Timberline is legit! I've done 30+ in Yosemite at a time and yeah they can be brutal!
Something to note on some of the video clips of gear with cables down - you only need one prusik knot, two were shown. The backup connector can be a simple carabiner on a sling, since you only need the second connection when actually at an anchor point to secure yourself while moving the prusik knot. This is easier than moving two prusik knots up the whole way.
Thanks! The second prusik is shown as a backup to failure, not just a temporary anchor when transitioning. Maybe overkill, but I wanted the option shown. ;)
While I get what you're saying about how using a sling + carabiner is a bad idea, my thinking is this: If you fall while using this system, sure it's shock loading the static sling, but it's still better than nothing. Chances are, you won't fall - that's why most people don't use anything. However, in the case that you did fall, it really doesn't do any harm. Additionally, you may not even shock load the sling very badly, since you will be sliding rather than freefalling.
It is true (if circular) that if it doesn't do any harm that it is better than nothing. So if that is the choice, I'd go with the static sling over nothing. But that doesn't make it a good idea compared to using a non-static system - and since that is pretty easily achieved, that's my recommendation.
One thing I guess I did not emphasize enough is that one danger is other people. Since people have fallen and 300 a day climb HD, I am also looking at getting knocked down by a falling body, object, or maybe having to make a dangerous move because someone freezes up. Unlikely but these have all happened more than once., So even if I am 100% confident I won't be a problem, I am less confident about the 299 others. :)
Very informative. Thank you
Glad it was helpful!
Helpful video, thanks Doug!
You bet!
I do want the supper sticky gloves, which one are those? Do you know the brand?
All the gear is actually in the video description! Here's the gloves: Mad Grip - amzn.to/4dEUmNK
Great video! A lot of helpful info. Thank you! ☮
You bet!
After climbing half Dome cables in 2015 with my daughter I wondered why there is no sentence like "Harness and Via-ferrata-Set recommended" in the description. In Europe, where we have so many Via Ferratas, everyone knows that you need such in areas with cables, where you might fall down when your arms get tired or someone slips on you ccause of any reason. Drinking Coffee seems more dangerous in USA, cause you get warned it might be hot (something you don't see in Europe, cause everybody knows)
I should have looked your video before, in the normal videos Half Dome does not seem so steep as its in reality.
We do Via Ferratas in Europe, so we have experience. But we went wrong estimating Half Dome steepness
Yeah I am surprised no one has sued Yosemite for having steep rocks lol. :)
Brilliant video 👌👌👌
Thank you! Cheers!
Extremely informative, bravo! Although I will personally and most likely never have the balls to do it....although, Elise wants to! 😂
You could just hike up to the saddle, it's an amazing view too!
Excellent advice, thanks.
You bet!
I did half dome once in my thirties…that was enough for me. We started at 5 am so it wasn’t crowded going up the cables. We hung out for a couple hours and when it was time to come down it was hella crowded. I looked at my buddy and we stepped outside the cables and flew down the rock grabbing on with each leap. Not recommended but we pulled it off…😜
Yeah I thought it would be a one and done for me but it continues to call. :)
This video makes me want to get back into ham radio and hiking lol
Interesting mix!
Currently trying to figure out if this is something I want/can do and not gonna lie, I'm a little terrified! I have the chance to do it with a friend this weekend, but I'm afraid of not being fit enough to do the cables, and the last thing I want is slipping and endangering other people! 😬
Thank you for the very helpful video!
You won't know until you're up there. The hike to the saddle is epic by itself, so you might as well try that. Then if you feel decent when you arrive, you can just start up the cables and if it gets to where you don't feel safe, just switch directions and descend! :)
@@BackcountryPilgrim Definitely planning on just going as far as I can, one step at a time! Would be the most insane hike ever if I complete it, but I also feel no pressure to do it if I don't feel it. Thank you for your advice!
That's exactly what I did. :)
Good video, but here are a few more points: You described the cables being put up "some years ago", which is true. However, this may be taken as the cable has been a recent installation, which it is not. The cables have been there for over a hundred years.
Next point, even using a harness with slings and carabiners attached to the cables when the cables are up is extremely dangerous to both you and other hikers. It is dangerous to you for the reasons you mentioned that it statically loads slings and carabiners with forces that could cause them to break (a true via ferrata harness tether will reduce this, but not eliminate the danger). The cables are NOT intended as via ferrata cables like you have in Europe. Next, if you do fall and your carabiner/sling tether slides down, it will hit the hands of the person behind you coming up, likely knocking them off the cables. You could cause their death. The cables are NOT via ferrata cables and should not be used as such. This is important both if you are experienced with via ferratas as well as if you are not experienced with via ferratas.
Good point about the possibility of a sliding carabiner affecting others. If it was a via faratta everyone would be clipped in and would be separated by sections.
if you fall at all, you will likely knock the person below you down anyway lol
I clip directly to the cables but add a yates screamer which is all sewn up tight but under load they rip their sewing out while they lengthen to absorb shock. I tried the prussik but it was a hassle to push it up the cable and pass the anchors.
So a kind of DIY via feratta setup. Cool. But it would not catch between anchors right? Could be a long slide/tumble if you actually needed it, but better than going over the side!
somewhat pointless as via feratta clip doesn't allow you stop like a prusik knot. whole point of cable only is having a transit & stoppable link. 400 foot down the cable will still be a body collection.
Very Good Video, Thank You.
Thanks for watching!
Wow, I commented earlier. I’m, 60, I’m a backpacker, not a mountaineer. My late father did this in his mid-sixties, I would go if you or someone like you could guide me.
Maybe I'll suggest a subscriber trip up someday!
What's on your hiking bucket list and what have you checked off?
Half Dome is on my list!!
Well worth it!!!
water,Off!(little Yosemite is infested with mosquitos) and a whole day. Start at 4;30 if you can assuming your starting at curry
I'm surprised they're still around, ugh!
This was awesome! Thanks !
Youre welcome, glad you liked it!
Thanks for the video! Is there any concern of slipping while using the prussic and shredding it ? Also, will the hike until sub-dome be very difficult in mid-April or is the difficulty at the top ?
I don't think that would happen. The cables are pretty smooth and a Prusik should bind up fast enough to not slide anyway. The hike up is hard anytime for me haha, but if you mean technically difficult - it will depend on the snow / water situation. April is often "late winter" for Yosemite - you could easily have ice and snow on the trails and/or high water due to melt. The snow hasn't been super deep this year so far though, so it's a tough call.
so much info thanks
You bet!
Love this video, thanks for making it. We're going to Yosemite with backcountry permit the week of July 19. It's unclear if cables will be up or down, and I'd like to be prepared for both. Rather than buying the personal anchor system ($44) could I get away with using the sling runner to connect my harness to a Prusik loop (if cables down) OR carabiner (if cables up)? Or does the Prusik loop somehow require a personal anchor system?
They should be up. The snow is nearly gone already and it's raining all week which could finish it off.
But as far as your gear question, replacing a PAS with a sling should be fine as long as it's the right length (the adjustment of which is the PAS's unique purpose).
For real- don't be cheap. A women died when we were there. She slipped. It rains up there- even on sunny days in the valley. 2019 D. Burnett R.I.P.
Make sure you can hike 16 miles at higher elevation before you can attempt this climb. I don't care what anyone says, 16 miles in one day is a hell of a hike. It's not just climbing that last 400 ft it's coming down that 400 ft. A more enjoyable doming experience can be had off the Tioga Road near Lake Tenaya. Try that first before you tackle Half Dome
Yeah brutal day hike for sure! It's even farther from Tenaya, especially if you do and out and back.
I've taken high altitude meds for both my Grand Canyon & my Half Dome hikes and they help a TON.
Sub dome is also tricky and no place to attach a harness. I hated it. It comes just before H. Dome.
Yeah since most reports are focused on HD, people are often surprised by the Sub Dome. It would be a major feature if it wasn't in the shadow of HD!
@@BackcountryPilgrim True. After a long hike starting in the dark my old legs were jello by Sub Dome. I was not confident. HD was easier...w/harness!
Hello! Thank you for this video! Very informative! My husband and I are planning to hike half dome during the off season in the middle of April. Is it safe to hike during that time like icy condition or it would be ok as long as we have proper hiking equipment? Harness etc. Your recommendation would greatly appreciated. Thanks!
It is likely that the conditions will be snowy, icy, and/or "melty" haha. For the approach I'd bring ice spikes (see ua-cam.com/video/FpAC3b8mqWk/v-deo.html).
@@BackcountryPilgrim Thank you so much! Wish us luck! We really appreciate this video!
@jenniferjohnson3422 I'm hoping to do it in May myself! :)
You should come in April with us lol!
@jenniferjohnson3422 I would but I am going with others in May and I don't know if I can handle it twice in a month haha! :)
I am already getting ready to visit Yosemite in June having won a permit for Happy Isles->Little Yosemite Valley for backpacking and plan to arrive two days early for my first time visiting the valley. I am not sure if I could psychologically handle hiking to the top of half dome even with the cables but at least plan to hike to the sub dome at the base of the cables. Is Little Yosemite Valley the only location to safely store gear while hiking to half dome. Is there any where near where the Half Dome trail seperates from the John Muir trail to store a backpack for example and then later collect the gear to backpack to Sunrise High Sierra Camp. I wonder about bringing a running vest to use for gear for the base or top of half dome.
The only places to leave gear are the LYV backpacker camp (which is not secured) or just leave it off trail somewhere. BUT if you're packing food for a continued trip I wouldn't do it. (Or, if you must, leave your bear canister somewhere else!) A running vest would be good for the summit if you have room for whatever you plan to bring, definitely don't need a full pack!
I climbed Half Dome in my Teens, I had no harness, no carabiner, wearing $20 hiking boots from Big 5, and the gloves I wore were cycling gloves no real grip. It felt slippery to me. I won't be climbing it again.
Yeah it can totally be done without gear - just like rock climbing, it's 90% for safety and 10% climbing. As long as you don't fall, you don't need it at all! ;)
@@BackcountryPilgrim Well it was the 90s, not as many people going up and down. And I was much younger and dumber then. If I had to do it again, probably won't be, but I'd bring gear.
Great vid !
Thank you!
Climbed my first time 2 days ago May 21. Incredible experience. Did the full hike from parking till the top. I put on a harness and a sling but never used it, just let it hang and kept going. It was just pure adrenaline. The chains were up but there was a stretch in the middle with no planks for about 4 sets of poles. Didn't matter gripped the chains and rested on poles. A good cheap pair of gardener gloves did the trick.
Congratulations! There is definitely benefit to going light and fast!
Chains?
Pretty sure he meant cables.
@@BackcountryPilgrim I know but reading comprehension and paying attention after it has been said many times bothers me.
Words,desrcriptions,definitions and nomenclature matters.
Safety and communication matters to all of us. Shooting sports,climbing,hiking etc.
I recognize that am being a petty douche. I can square with that. I want people to return to their families. Safe.
Given the name its very possible English is a second language and the chain/cable distinction might not be clear.
Several of the gear links are "not currently available"
Will any climbing harness work or should it specifically be a via ferrata harness? Thanks!
Ugh, Amazon is so annoying haha. I fixed the ones I found so far but yes any proper climbing harness will do. If you want to make it easier on yourself and just get a Via Ferrata lanyard, mine is the CAMP Kinetic Gyro Rewind Pro (amzn.to/3TfPH9v) but the Black Diamond Iron Cruiser (amzn.to/3zNx6ek) or Petzl's Easy Rider (amzn.to/3T8SC44) will work too.
Clear and succinct
Well done Sir
Thank you!
Great video. Very informative. Thank you!
Glad it was helpful!
Did you ever do the Camino De Santiago?
Unfortunately no. Covid shutdowns killed our trip and I was not interested in going under Covid restrictions. So we'll see!
@@BackcountryPilgrim Keep us posted, I too am waiting for things to settle down
I thought about going in 2023 as part of another trip with work, but it ended up being too long. Maybe someday! Ultreia!
So with cables up you can do it just with gloves. With cables down you better have equipment. Is that the gist of it? Also, is there some store e.g. in Fresno where you can buy all that stuff (harness, slings,...)?
Personally I still use safety gear even with them up. I think everyone who has died on HD the cables were up. They're not a safety system really. Anyway, there is a decent REI in Fresno that stocks climbing gear. Yosemite itself has a very good climbing store near the east end of the valley. Personally I'd want all my stuff to familiarize myself with before I went. :)
For real- don't be cheap. A women died when we were there. She slipped. It rains up there- even on sunny days in the valley. 2019 D. Burnett R.I.P.
@@peanut1001x Nah. I did it last year just with gloves and it was fine (but the gloves you def. need!). You do not need any protection gear. IMO it is overprotective to advice for these, kind of like helicopter parents do too much.
Is it really difficult to find the path if you hike in the snow? I have experience hiking in snow but never at Half Dome. I was thinking of hiking half dome in mid November. I have all the safety gear I need, just unfamiliar with the route.
I have not done the route in the snow nut I don't think it would be too bad. (My fiest time yp Clouds Eest was in snow and it wasnt terrible.) I personally wouldn't want to be on the domes with snow or ice though!
I live in the Midwest. Are climbing harnesses easy to rent and/or accessible near Yosemite?
Not that I know of. There is a climbing store in the valley, but I do not think they do rentals (few climbers would ever use rented gear).
Since you wine be sitting in it you go with an inexpensive non padded harness. Just make sure it's rated for climbing.
REI my man. REI.
Thank you for potentially saving someone’s life. This is the best advice on hiking (or should I say climbing?) Half Dome. You obviously know what you’re talking about and recommend the safe way to do it.
The guys on the video which you call out did it with the cables down and used carabiners and tethers without even a via ferrata shock absorbing system. I felt it my civic duty to post a comment on their video (and reference yours) warning people that they could just as well have had no gear and “free soloed” it because (as you say) chances are that with a fall factor well over 2, their gear will probably fail and even if it doesn’t fail, a massive amount of force will be generated on their bodies.
Even with the cables up, it’s still basically a low angle slab and though technically easy, people need to understand exposure and think about the consequences of a potential fall.
People can hike/climb however they want, I just think the correct implications need to be pointed out. :) I'd appreciate it if you deleted the link.
The hardest part of climbing Half Dome is getting the permit.
Lol true! (Another reason to do it cables down!)
GREAT POINT!!!
Can we hire a guide to do the hike in the off season ?
Official guide services are highly regulated in Yosemite.
@@BackcountryPilgrim what you mean by highly regulated?
I heard there are a lot of legal issues and someone can get in a lot of trouble for acting as a professional guide in the park. But now I realize it was a rock climber who told me that so I need to look into it more!
@@BackcountryPilgrim now I see what you mean
What I find absolutely perplexing to understand is how dozens, if not hundreds of people, are NOT killed each year doing this. Considering that hordes of out-of-shape, totally inexperienced, everyday people do this without any base knowledge or equipment, without falling--and taking everyone else beneath them--to the abyss. I presume that this climb, which you liken to scaling a 40 story building, requires incredible upper body strength. And yet I see obese housewives, beer belly men, gawky school kids, and grandparents doing this without incident. How is this possible?
The cable section is mostly really steep but it's not rock climbing. The folks you describe usually aren't moving fast.
i heard a young woman in her 20s died by falling to her death it sucked i heard of this looks dangerous im a rock climber i took a risk on outside bouldering in bishop i was sight nervous & i didn’t fall before.
Yes, she slipped on wet rock and had nothing attaching her to the cables. I'm actually doing a video on this issue. Sad.
@@BackcountryPilgrim
im 7 years experienced at rock climbing it looks interesting the half dome but to be honest i have this thing for falling its just not me
#1 rule: Don't be stupid! Treat the hike as life or death meaning it can be one of the best memories of your life or the worst...dont try to be a daredevil and try to get that selfie that could cost you your life of the life of someone else.
Unreal that they don’t have a proper Via Ferrata fixed with so many novices climbing 🧗
The park authority is extremely negligent to allow all and sundry to pile up that sketchy cable system!!
It's not the parks job to make climbing safe for people but if they're going to act like they have, then it ought to be! Im.makimg a video about this issue coming out soon.
@@BackcountryPilgrim exactly 👍
The more safety that's added, the more people who will attempt. There will always be people who are under prepared. It's a national park, not a theme park
@@NitroniumGaming I beg to differ as I think it is a theme park these days. Who wants to climb a granite trail that has been worn smooth by years of thousands of hikers using the same spot to climb this dangerous rock. People are doing it for adrenaline and validation rather than for fun and/or connection with nature. Theme parks make their living on adrenaline and validation, thus, I believe Half Dome is more like a theme park than anything else. Angels Landing falls into that category as well.
@@TruthDragon. people are definitely treating it like a theme park. And sometimes nature reminds of the otherwise. I'm not sure what the solution is, but increasing accessibility is probably not the answer.for the preservation of the park, we can't make trails more and more accessible.
I climbed Half Dome via the cables twice, the last time on my 70th birthday. This was before they initiated the permit requirement. With the cables down there are no posts to provide an anchor if you fall and have the carabiner harness on, it will catch on the post and stop you. But with the cables down, the cable is like a one and a half inch metal tube that goes to the bottom with no obstructions to stop you, providing no protection. Not smart climbing.
Actually there are several cables mounted in the rock so there are several "stops" along the way. :) Also, if you watch the video I show how to climb even more safely with the cables down than up.
Thanks for the information. The guy you show on why the sling doesn't work, his whole channel is just to show his wife's ass off to get clicks, just start an only fans channel and get it over with. I wouldn't trust his channel for anything. The few videos I watched were reckless and foolish and would get someone killed if they followed that couple's advice.
Ok but to be fair he also shows off his abs. Lol!
I think this is a little extreme. Both are very fit and he is very experienced. Their set-up gave them the ability to rest and photo in safety.
@@allanfifield8256 I watched some of their other videos. They do unsafe and even stupid things on their hikes that if people follow, could end up getting people hurt. The reason for their channel is too show off the guys wife. Who goes climbing up mountains in thongs?
@@DoolallyProductions They do push the limits some times. Sometimes for hikes that I don't think are worth it. But I like them.
these unsafe people could effect other people
That is an issue for sure. I was more worried about others taking me down than me falling!
I’ve climbed half dome and the ranger expressly told us not to use any harnesses or mountaineering equipment and checked whether people had them. He didn’t forbid using them but he was very antagonistic to using anything but gloves. Accidents are exceptionally rare and clipping in is slow. I also seriously doubt a noob should climb cables down at all without formal training. You’re comfortable with all these complicated knot systems because you obviously have an engineering mind. Most people don’t and they should stay away from this complexity because it’s far more likely they screw this up under the stress of HD. It’s one thing to practice at home but it’s much different climbing under pressure. They’re also tired from a gruesome hike. For the majority of people I agree with the ranger - KISS. Go with cables up, get behind someone who looks comfortable and athletic, get your gloves, hold on, rest at each pole. You can also go late in the season after school starts (during the week) and crowds are not bad.
First, this advice is only for cables up. Second, I disagree anyway. Several of the people who have died climbing HD would not have if they had safety gear. Further, even if someone is confident, they can get taken out by someone else slipping. All of this is covered in the video.
@@BackcountryPilgrimrun the numbers. 300 people per day every season, every year for decades. Exceptionally few deaths. They don’t even average 1 per year. You also can’t say that that rate would fall if there was an increase in harness usage. The slowness and misuse of harnesses could increase the risk that unharnessed people die,or that harnessed people climb with an unwarranted level of confidence given their facility with the equipment. You fall ten feet with a harness on and smack that pole with your head because you think you’re safe you’re going to be in a world of hurt. Meanwhile if you dial in with gloves and focus you’ll be fine. That’s why things like this require studies which haven’t been done. Also, 3/4 of deaths were because of rain. If you’re stuck at the top I would not climb down even with a harness - I’d call for rescue. And you sure aren’t climbing up. I appreciate the perspective but I think between park rangers who sit there and watch people do this every day and random UA-cam guy the park rangers are the real experts here.
First, you are confusing the opinion of one ranger with "the rangers" and that one may just be ignorant. (I'd be more apt to listen if they were trained climbing rangers rather than permit checkers.)
Second, the fact that you're complaining about how slow clipping is but also think it's ok to take a break at the poles is interesting since those are the only places where clipping takes place.
Third, if you'd stay up on HD during a storm...well, good luck with that. (Hint: the real issue is lightning not rain).
Finally, 100% of people clipped in didn't slip and fall to their deaths, but if you're happy with a slightly worse number to avoid "slowing down," then maybe you should rethink your priorities.
- Sincerely, Some Random UA-camr
@@BackcountryPilgrim the ranger statements reflect park policy. They don’t have the freedom to just make up whatever they want working for a National Park. They’re trained to give this advice. You also ignored the majority of the argument because the statistics are solid on safety. What you’re effectively advocating is that it’s safer for a noob to go during the off season and use a complicated clip-in strategy with a downed cable then it is to simply go during the season and not clip in. Your evidence is essentially “people have died therefore this is better” (and “crowds” ) even if the number of dead is waaaayyy less than 0.1% - something like sub 10 asfak actually falling on the cables). I would agree with you that clip could reduce the already small risk of everything was done properly with cables up. I don’t agree that noobs going off season is a good policy in general because of weather, higher risk of failure to summit, and odds of messing up the tie in system. Just do what everyone else does and you’ll summit safely. Re staying on top in a rainstorm all I’m saying is you’re not safely climbing in the rain. If there’s any threat you have to abandon; again official park advice also.
@Calidastas I am not advocating for "noobs" to use a complicated system (although it is a system which, according to the stats, has had a zero percent death rate). I am explaining the various options that exist for climbing Half Dome. There is no park policy against any of these methods. If you don't think some are good methods, that's fine - but don't pretend you have park policy or stats on your side by advocating a gearless climb.
i don't know how 10 year olds did this hike, im terrified
My 10 y.o. would, but she has a different fear level than I do haha!
I’m going free climb Half Dome. Harnesses and ropes are not part of my equipment during off Season
Climb your own climb, just make sure no one is beneath you!
use slide knot, obviously
This is an important video. LISTEN TO THIS MAN. The day after we climbed HD a women slipped and fell the whole way down. She was dead before she hit the bottom. She was young and in great sharp too- tragic. 2019 Danielle Burnett. I saw the activity. They did not even pull her into the helicopter. I recall she was dangling beneath it all the way back down to the valley. Not a rescue- a recovery. She had a HARNESS but was not clipped on and it started raining.
Tragic. People hear about 300 people a day (including kids) climbing HD and think it's a walk in the park. Like most of the outdoors, tourist parks like Yosemite included, it *can* be - but sometimes it isn't.
@@DarrylGallardo-n5z Nah. It was just her time. God took her home. I also bumped into her savior the day before- her spiritual guide in the form of a bear sliding off a nearby mountain. When I was also in the valley I accidentally took his picture. I did not even see it at first- it was pointed out to me by another person when I was showing my vacation pics at a holiday party. There he is- clear as day sliding off the mountain arms outstretched- just like her. Then I could not unsee it. Then I connected it with what happened to her. Then I learned about the spritual power of bears. It all made sense. BTW- I am more a scientific/facts type guy- studied Engineering. I am not usually all about these other things- but clearly they are real once you are tuned into them.
We also stood there when the helicopter brought her body back- it hung far below the chopper. God works in mysterious ways. And she did have a harness. It just was not attached when the weather and god came in and took her that fateful day.
Doug your video has good information however I don't agree with the recommendation to use a harnesses. Ive climbed HD 8 times including 2 last Summer with cables up. I find that people using a harness slow the ascent for everyone behind them and create a dangerous, unnecessary bottleneck as they clip-in/clip-out after each post. Instead of wearing a harness people should train ahead of time to build upper body strength to support their weight. Also, if you walk on the outside of the cables, there's much better traction so you can use your legs more. I wish they would ban harnesses - i feel it makes the hike more dangerous for everyone. If you think you need a harness maybe that's a sign that you should not do this hike.
I disagree for three reasosns just off the top of my head. First, the issue is fall safety not ones physical shape (which a harness does not really help with). Second, given the possibility of someone else falling into someone else, physical shape also does not matter. Third, if those on the line are in good shape the clipping won't slow them down much and if they arent, their pace will be slow no matter what. If you want to move faster than the crowd and think the outside cable route is better, why not just take it and not try to set the conditions for others?
@Backcountry Pilgrim clipping in def slows people down and causes more bottlenecks. Falling on HD is a non-issue if you're prepared and in shape. Promoting harnesses on HD decreases safety and likely encourages more overweight, out of shape, less prepared novices from attempting this hike. The main reason I've used the outside route on the ropes is bc of bottlenecks caused by harness novices clogging the middle route.
Even if clipping is an issue, my other two points remain true, and fortunately for the slow tourists you're not the standard. And fortunately for you, real rock climbers who don't use the cables aren't the standard. And fortunately for them, elite soloists ho use no gear at all aren't the standard. It's easy to draw the line at yourself.
@@franchr if you see people clipping up ahead then wait a little longer before you even start your ascent…. Stop being dumb and trying to rush an ascent when you see a slower climber up ahead. Just wait at the bottom and start a little better
@Tornadospeed10 dumb? Lol. I don't wait for anyone I just go up on the outside. My comments are more about the overall stream of people going up and down in the middle. Clipping in and out slows everyone down unnecessarily. HD is not for everyone. If you need a harness you prob shouldn't be doing it in the first place. Using harnesses makes it less safe for everyone bc it encourages unqualified people to attempt and also increases the amount of time people are on the ropes waiting for person in front of them.
The info in this video is generally excellent. However, I don't understand why after correctly saying to avoid a dangerous safety system involving static slings that are not meant be fallen on, you later at 14:45 recommend a "safety" system made from a static sling that is not meant to be fallen on. Creating two loops for carabiners is just creating the illusion of safety. Slings are meant to take static loads, and your set up has virtually zero energy absorption capability. All you really have is what little would be absorbed by the central knot tightening up if you fell on it, and I would suggest you wouldn't want to trust your life to such a set up. This advice is paradoxical to your earlier correct advice to not use such a setup. If I had $1 every time an American misused climbing equipment whilst claiming to be safe I could retire.
At 18:00 you show yourself using a looped PAS. Yes this is better than anyone foolish enough to use a daisy chain, and yes this is slightly better if you avoid slack to your Prusik knot but that's not necessarily easy to do when taking steps up/down such a slope. The clue is in the name - it's a static anchor system, not an energy absorber, so you're relying on the much weaker Prusik cord to do do most of the energy absorption and that's also not designed for or strong enough for shock loading. If you want to use such a setup, so be it, but you need to keep minimal slack between you and the Prusik to reduce the risk of the system failing if you fell.
Thank you for your kudos and critical comments, please allow me to explain my reasoning concerning the latter.
At 14:45 I am speaking of climbing Half Dome with the cables up. This creates a situation in which (if one is clipped in) it would be nearly impossible to free fall. So the kinds of forces generated in real (class 5) climbing are not the standard for measuring this safety gear. The climb itself is basically a class 3 scramble - so if one is clipped in, a short slip and slide should be the worst one should expect. Further, the cables themselves create a more dynamic system than if the safety gear were attached to an anchor. Only if one managed to go past the pole connection would the system become static, but again not in free fall. A full via ferrata setup would be great, but it is not the necessity it is on a VF route which can generate fall factors even greater than 2.
The purpose of creating two loops is, as stated in the video, for making transitions over poles without becoming unattached to the cables and thus is not a safety illusion at all.
At 18:00 am speaking of climbing Half Dome with the cables down. In this case you avoid slack in your Prusik hitch setup by keeping the cord short (as I show in the video). In fact, one of the main purposes of this setup is to allow one to simply lean back to stop for breaks - something that would be difficult to do if the cord length was much beyond arm length. Thus a “fall” would be little more dramatic than simply stopping. Finally, sliding a Prusik along the cables as you step is easier than with climbing rope as the cables are smoother (yet still hold when the hitch binds).
I think it is also important to remember that thousands and thousands of people accomplish this climb annually without incident. Most of them do it without any backup safety system at all, and some even go so far as to argue that using such a safety system is useless or even dangerous (in fact you can find a couple comments to that effect here). I made this video to counter those views as well as help those who may have never even considered using a safety system in the first place.
Finally the quip about American climbers is rather ironic considering that modern rock climbing was born here haha. ;)
@@BackcountryPilgrim Hey dude, thanks for responding! :) My reference to an illusion of safety was more to do with the system still using a sling which earlier was criticised (the photos shown at 1:31 and 1:38 both showed 2 carabiners for example), rather than the use of 2 carabiners being illusory in and of itself, if that clarifies what I was trying to say. On rewatching I think the point in the middle of that earlier section on it not being so bad when the poles are up and it being a dangerous solution when the poles are down was lost on my first viewing. And of course your two solutions do make a clear distinction between poles up and poles down. I think your conclusion is fair: with the poles down, someone dragging a carabiner or two up on a sling (or two :D ) could well end up out of control and accelerating before the next cable anchor point caught the system, so yes, there's a higher risk of it simply breaking. Someone doing that is kidding themselves and anyone they happen to be advocating that to. I think also someone using a simple snap-gate carabiner in that situation could be at greater risk if the carabiner stopping against the cable anchors were to twist, although at that point they're probably regretting their choices anyway 🙃
On the later Prusik section, I also agree with your approach on keeping the link to the Prusik short.
At the end of the day, it's an awkward location to try and improve safety on, so there are compromises to be made (such as not having to faff too much with the poles every 10 feet when surrounded by people) and I think in what you propose is fair for those who don't want to rely solely on their ability to hold the cables. On second viewing I think what you're advising against in that regard and the circumstances in which you advise against it are clear. This clarifies what were for me a couple of niggles in a video I thoroughly enjoyed. Thanks! 🙂👍
I genuinely appreciate the interaction thanks!
How about climb half dome never and never have to care about the status of the cables. That said, it would seem that anyone attempting to climb half dome without spending a lot of time buying and learning how to use proper safety/climbing equipment is being negligent. Half dome really is just an easy climb up the face of a mountain and those climbing it should know how to climb mountains and be fit enough to do so.
I think the problem is that the gap between these two statements isn't appreciated enough. Its easy to see how somelne could wonder why - if it's just an easy climb - they should need to spend time on gear and fitness? It should be stressed that both are true!
I thought about climbing this when I was younger. But now that I’m older like 72 I am too old. Even if I wasn’t too old, one thing that stopped me was I felt it was too dangerous. And I still think it is today too dangerous. I watch Dave UA-cam video yesterday and watch a lady slide down the mountain and hit a pole between her legs. Oh, I bet that really hurt sleet, snow and rain on the way up slipsliding one lady slipped clear off the mountain, then fell about 80 feet thankfully she is alive, but not in very good shape. People climb that mountain. It’s a death trap, it even scares me just to look at it I wouldn’t climate if you paid me to I want to live not die ha ha. I think they need to close it permanently and don’t let people on it anymore. It’s too damn dangerous.💀☠️👎🤷♂️🤷♂️😖😡👎
Over 300 people a day successfully climb this "death trap" in season, so I do not think such a title is warranted. Further, closing this route would set a terrible standard. There are MANY places and activities in Yosemite that are more dangerous than climbing Half Dome on the cables. I for one do not wish to see the park overregulated like so many other popular destinations.
100% WELL SAID! :)
Harness must be via ferrata!!!
The harnesses used in via ferrata are rock climbing harnesses. :)
@@BackcountryPilgrim Yeah, they are. I think what the commenter was probably driving at was a via ferrata set attached to a harness, and the utility of having some realistic energy absorption to help with falls where momentum is gained (as opposed to a slip where you land straight on your backside and go nowhere thanks to friction).