Dito. Great explanation of that last DS. I do love that your video was in focus the entire time, and you point out steps that may be obvious to some, but not so if you have not executed it before. Great work.
Thank you so much for showing how to make these short rows. I am preparing for knitting a Norwegian sweater and saw in the pattern the recommendation for these rows. So I am very happy to have found your explanation.😊
Purtroppo non so scrivere il commento in inglese però volevo ringraziarti perché finalmente hai spiegato come lavorare l’ultimo punto doppio quando riprendi il giro intero! Nessun altro aveva messo in evidenza che questo punto viene preso in modo diverso, arrivando da destra verso sinistra, perciò facendo anche le calze mi rimanevano sempre i buchi! .👏😀🥰
Great, clear instructions, thank you.Your ribbing is gorgeous, and I found it interesting that you knit continental, but purl 'English'. Perhaps that's how you get such perfect ribbing
Thank you! I work the ribbing the "English" way because my continental purling is terrible 😂 It's awkward and the tension is all over the place. My ribbing was always quite untidy until I discovered knitting through the back loop. It made a real difference for me.
Thank you SO much for this video!! Have been struggling a lot with that last double stitch so now I'm relieved that I found a good solution for the gap! 🖤
Thank you. Very clear instructions. Can you point me to where I can find more information about short rows when designing your own pattern? Like the placement and number of stitches? This is new to me and thanks to your video I learned that it needs to be 1-1.5in wide. Thank you 😊
Thank you! I'm glad it's helpful. I don't know of any tutorials for designing your own pattern I'm afraid, but I would say that for me, I tend to start the short rows at the back 1/3 of the neckband, and then work to desired depth. I hope that helps!
So...after the last row of processing the double stitches you would make the separations for sleeves,back and front? I’m not following any pattern. Just want a simple top down creation of my own but this time with short rows. I’m a little confused.
The short row shaping here would be best used at the start of a circular yoke construction. So from this point you would need to knit until the piece reaches past your underarms, with 4-5 increase rounds which would increase the number of stitches to fit around your body.
Your instructions are so clear. Thank you. My issue is my pattern doesn’t include short rows but I want to use them to lower the front neckline. Not quite sure how to count stitches to make it even. It looks like you knit past pick up of the double stitch for about 4 stitches. I’m thinking I should start the short rows about an inch inside the halfway mark of the neckline. Does that make sense?
I'm glad they were helpful! I normally suggest to start the short row shaping from the back third of the neckhole. So assuming your Beginning of Round marker (BOR) is positioned at the centre back of the neck, you would want to calculate 1/6 of the total sts you have, knit that number of stitches from BOR and work your first short row turn there. Then on the wrong side, purl back to BOR, then purl 1/6 of the stitch count from BOR and work your second short row turn there. After that I tend to space out short row turns every 4-5 stitches until you reach the depth you want at the back of the neck. I hope that helps!
Thank you! I’m trying to add this shaping to an existing pattern that doesn’t have neck shaping. You said 1-1.5 inches of short rows for an adult, but what about for a 2 or 4 year old? Should I just halve that? Thanks again!!
I'm not sure exactly what you mean, sorry! If you'd like further help, you can email me (maybe with a photo?) at unwind_knitwear@outlook.com and I'll see what I can do.
There shouldn't be any change in the stitch count with this method. You work the double stitch with a K2together, then you work that looser loop with the next stitch on your needles, not on its own, so you shouldn't be creating any extra stitches.
You would need to know how many rounds you are working per inch. Then you would need to calculate how many rounds would be required for ~1.5" of depth. For example, if you were working 7 rounds per inch, you would need ~10 rounds for ~1.5" of depth. The number of rounds required is the same as the number of short row turns you would need to work in total. So in the example above, you would need to work 10 short row turns around the neck - 5 rounds either side of BOR (beginning of round). You would then need to think about how you're going to space out those turns. I recommend placing the first turn less than a quarter of the way round the neckband, and spacing each turn ~0.5-1" apart. Here you would need to use your stitch gauge to work out how many stitches that might be. A bit of a long answer, sorry! I hope it's helpful.
![A better way to knit German short rows [and why yours may look all wrong]](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/i_F8A5Lyz88/mqdefault.jpg)
I've read several suggestions to deal with that last floppy stitch but yours is the simplest and easy to remember. Thank you from a novice knitter
Thank you! Glad I could help 💕
Thank you☺ Finally I have found a clear and step by step explanation of how to deal with the last double stitch. Very helpful.
Thank you! I'm so pleased it's helpful.
This video guided me through my first pattern with german short rows. Can't express how grateful i feel🫂
I'm so pleased it was helpful! Thanks so much for letting me know ❤
Dito. Great explanation of that last DS. I do love that your video was in focus the entire time, and you point out steps that may be obvious to some, but not so if you have not executed it before. Great work.
Thank you very much!
Clear, detailed, effective. Very well explained! Thanks a lot!
Thank you for the feedback!
Your stitches are absolutely beautiful!❤
Thanks so much!
Thank you so much for showing how to make these short rows. I am preparing for knitting a Norwegian sweater and saw in the pattern the recommendation for these rows. So I am very happy to have found your explanation.😊
No problem! I hope it helps ❤
Beautifully explained thank you so much 😊
You're welcome!
I made my first short rows today watching this video. You've made it simple and
also your voice is really soothing 🙂
tysm 🥺
Thank you! I'm so glad it was helpful.
This video is very well done. Thank you so much!!
Thank you! I'm glad it's helpful for you.
Purtroppo non so scrivere il commento in inglese però volevo ringraziarti perché finalmente hai spiegato come lavorare l’ultimo punto doppio quando riprendi il giro intero! Nessun altro aveva messo in evidenza che questo punto viene preso in modo diverso, arrivando da destra verso sinistra, perciò facendo anche le calze mi rimanevano sempre i buchi! .👏😀🥰
You're welcome! I'm so glad you found it helpful.
Thank you!! I was going completely crazy over that last double stitch an no videos I found explained it... except yours! Thanks again
Glad it helped! I was the same.... little imperfections like that really annoy me 😂
Great, clear instructions, thank you.Your ribbing is gorgeous, and I found it interesting that you knit continental, but purl 'English'. Perhaps that's how you get such perfect ribbing
Thank you! I work the ribbing the "English" way because my continental purling is terrible 😂 It's awkward and the tension is all over the place. My ribbing was always quite untidy until I discovered knitting through the back loop. It made a real difference for me.
❤❤❤❤ your very simple and clear instructions (and you knit in continental style . Wooohooo) 😂 got you a new subscriber! Thank you!
Thanks so much! ❤
Thank you so much!!!! I was looking for a tutorial like this for a long time!
You're welcome!
Thank you for the video! really clear and easy to follow!
You're welcome!
This was so helpful. I wanted to raise the back of a sweater that had no instructions for doing that…hopefully it will give me the result I want 😊
I hope it works out for you!
This was so helpful. Thanks so much!
You're welcome!
I get it! At last a demonstration I can follow which is uncomplicated! Thanks so much 😊
I'm so glad it was helpful!
Thank you SO much for this video!! Have been struggling a lot with that last double stitch so now I'm relieved that I found a good solution for the gap! 🖤
You're welcome! I'm glad I'm not the only one who's bothered by an ugly stitch 😂
Thank you very much. Now I understand the short rows.
Glad this was helpful!
Great tutorial. Thank you.
You're welcome!
You are wonderful and now very helpful
Thank you so much! Happy to help 🤗
Thank you. Very clear instructions. Can you point me to where I can find more information about short rows when designing your own pattern? Like the placement and number of stitches? This is new to me and thanks to your video I learned that it needs to be 1-1.5in wide. Thank you 😊
Thank you! I'm glad it's helpful. I don't know of any tutorials for designing your own pattern I'm afraid, but I would say that for me, I tend to start the short rows at the back 1/3 of the neckband, and then work to desired depth. I hope that helps!
Great 💡 idea!
Thnku sooo much asi was working on a lento and finding a big gaping hole!
You're welcome! Glad it was helpful.
Awesome 😊thank you ❤
You're welcome!
Thank you ❤
You're welcome!
So...after the last row of processing the double stitches you would make the separations for sleeves,back and front? I’m not following any pattern. Just want a simple top down creation of my own but this time with short rows. I’m a little confused.
The short row shaping here would be best used at the start of a circular yoke construction. So from this point you would need to knit until the piece reaches past your underarms, with 4-5 increase rounds which would increase the number of stitches to fit around your body.
I think you would do the front/back/sleeve separations after the last row processing if you were making a raglan sweater.
Your instructions are so clear. Thank you. My issue is my pattern doesn’t include short rows but I want to use them to lower the front neckline. Not quite sure how to count stitches to make it even. It looks like you knit past pick up of the double stitch for about 4 stitches. I’m thinking I should start the short rows about an inch inside the halfway mark of the neckline. Does that make sense?
I'm glad they were helpful! I normally suggest to start the short row shaping from the back third of the neckhole. So assuming your Beginning of Round marker (BOR) is positioned at the centre back of the neck, you would want to calculate 1/6 of the total sts you have, knit that number of stitches from BOR and work your first short row turn there. Then on the wrong side, purl back to BOR, then purl 1/6 of the stitch count from BOR and work your second short row turn there.
After that I tend to space out short row turns every 4-5 stitches until you reach the depth you want at the back of the neck. I hope that helps!
Thank you. Very helpfuld. ❤️
You're welcome! Glad they were helpful.
Merci beaucoup ! 🧶
You're welcome!
Thank you! I’m trying to add this shaping to an existing pattern that doesn’t have neck shaping. You said 1-1.5 inches of short rows for an adult, but what about for a 2 or 4 year old? Should I just halve that? Thanks again!!
Yes I would have thought that around 0.5-0.75" of short row shaping would be sufficient for a 2-4 year old.
Gracias.
❤
Once you finish your DS and knit a round, is the side you knit back on supposed to be a row longer or did I mess something up?
I'm not sure exactly what you mean, sorry! If you'd like further help, you can email me (maybe with a photo?) at unwind_knitwear@outlook.com and I'll see what I can do.
When you work the last double stich and you work a stich in the loose loop does that affect the stich count if you are following a pattern?
There shouldn't be any change in the stitch count with this method. You work the double stitch with a K2together, then you work that looser loop with the next stitch on your needles, not on its own, so you shouldn't be creating any extra stitches.
is there a method or calculation so that I can add short rows for a pattern that doesn't call for one?
You would need to know how many rounds you are working per inch. Then you would need to calculate how many rounds would be required for ~1.5" of depth. For example, if you were working 7 rounds per inch, you would need ~10 rounds for ~1.5" of depth.
The number of rounds required is the same as the number of short row turns you would need to work in total. So in the example above, you would need to work 10 short row turns around the neck - 5 rounds either side of BOR (beginning of round).
You would then need to think about how you're going to space out those turns. I recommend placing the first turn less than a quarter of the way round the neckband, and spacing each turn ~0.5-1" apart. Here you would need to use your stitch gauge to work out how many stitches that might be.
A bit of a long answer, sorry! I hope it's helpful.
What yarn and color is this? 😍
This is Along Avec Anna 's Merino fingering base in colourway Tresor.
Im still confused. I am doing the its jot a sweatshirt pattern and I cant figure it out.
I'm getting how to do the German short rows Ive done this before when making socks
@@elizabethjones269 Which part is causing the confusion?
❤❤
Hi can u show is full sewtter pl
This is the Whispering Fields sweater - you can see it on Ravelry or Payhip. Sorry I can't post a link here.
Thank ypu for this nice toturial, but the soun was very low.
Thank you for the feedback! I will try to improve that for future videos.
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