Get Perfect Cuts with a Chop Saw
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- Опубліковано 27 лип 2024
- A few simple steps make welding projects fit together like a true craftsman.
Thanks to Evolution Power Tools for sponsoring this video. Discount code 'TIMWELDS' will save 5% on their official site here: aspireiq.go2cloud.org/aff_c?of...
Saw used in this video: S380CPS
I also have the S355CPSL, which is a bit cheaper and also really nice.
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Mini Speed Square: amzn.to/3vu5Bob
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You can learn to weld. I'll show you exactly what to do in my affordable online welding courses at courses.timwelds.com.
Worth every penny.
I got so fed up with chop saws that I installed a metal cutting blade on a wood compound miter saw. The difference in precision, versatility and ease of clamping is night and day better.
Always appreciate the practical lessons, I’m sure based on doing it wrong first. Having struggled with a chop saw a few times, these tips were golden.
Thank you!
Just order my evolution after making my first freehand 45’s…takes a long time and they are hard to get just right- your video convinced me that this was a fabrication tool I could no long work without as a metal hobbyist.
I like how you showed off the features of the sponsor's product yet provided alternatives for those of us (like me) that are still using abrasive saws and those cheap roller stands.
Once you use a carbide-tipped blade, you’ll wonder why you didn’t do it sooner.
Nice, simple instructions for the beginner (me). Thanks. 👍
Thanks. I am absorbing this in anticipation of moving into a new home where I will have space to start practicing the things I have learned from you and books.
I just picked one of these up a few weeks ago for a bumper project. My first cuts were through 1/4" steel angle...cut like a knife through butter, and no burrs to file off or hit with a flap disc. Pretty impressive.
How long does it last?
I have an older dewalt dw872 that I bought used. These saws are pretty incredible! I was cutting round stock so thin that I made my own washers. I really like the look of what this evolution is capable of doing.
if for whatever reason, you need a second chop saw, would you buy another dw872 or go for the evolution?
@@CamiloSantana I think I would try the evolution because of price and I like the fence. However, the screw threads on the clamp are better on the dewalt.
Love these practical tips! Golden!
Once again Tim thanks for the great videos..!
Great advice as always. Thank you!
I use my Evolution with a stainless steel blade. Love it.
Another fantastic video really enjoy watching them and all ways learn things so a massive Thankyou 👍👍
Hey Tim….. good tips…. I love my Evo saw…… your review was more detailed than mine…… great job✅
great information Tim...Bravo
I just got this saw shipped for $345. It's on sale and with your additional 5% off. I have been using a regular abrasive chop saw for almost 30 years but I have been wanting to give this type a shot.
It's a great tool to get accurate cuts.
Love it
Thank you Tim! Have you tried a porta-band or stationary band saw? Planning on some miters today, so I’ll update with how it goes.
Another thing your can do is measure directly off the blade onto the material and get an accurate measurement for the kerf as well
Tim !!! You look like John wick !
Very good video. I've got one of their older 14" chop saws (8 year old) and it still works GREAT!! One thing, make a "COMPLETE" cut before releasing the switch, it'll break off the teeth if you let the metal slow the blade down. Ask me how I know!! LOL!!
Thanks Tim LARRYMOORE
Love the channel. Note: intro- don't cut on flat edge to preserve the blade... then all the demo cuts you cut on the flat edge ;-)
In order to achieve the correct miter with this saw, you have no choice but to cut on the flat side. It only miters, no bevel.
Hey Tim, I was looking at either the Dekopro welder you reviewed or the Chicago Electric Welding flux core welder. What do you recommend. I like both stick and mig.
Are abrasive chop saw any good and usefull in your opinion?
Thanks. A must have to be able to do precise cuts. Unfortunately i can’t find it in my country.
👍
so long as the angles are accurate (check with a protractor) and the cutting disc doesn't flex, you've got a decent saw. good luck
@@CamiloSantana Thank you 🙏
I just wanna see what you are working on lol. Good info though, thought about getting that stand for mine.
What angle do you use for rails on a flight of stairs that goes from one floor to the next?
Does this Evolution Chop Saw work just as well on thicker material?
Awesome Video. I unfortunately don’t have the option to get a cold cut saw. Only have an abrasive saw. Can you give me some tips on cutting with an abrasive saw. To make sure I get the most square cuts. I notice that my abrasive saw wanders a little while cutting. So it doesn’t cut 90degree vertical cuts most the time. Is there something I’m doing wrong?
No thats just the nature of the abrasive disk
Happy you didn’t just say; “I got this saw, or I picked up this saw”. Too many UA-camrs are given equipment and don’t say so, as UA-cam rules require. So viewers think they actually bought the equipment. That’s deceptive. You can usually tell as every time it’s used the name of the company and model is given, usually with a throw off line such as: “A great …”. A welder company that makes green machines is notorious for that.
I’ve been using a Diablo 14” 72 tooth cermet blade for a good four and a half years, and it finally dulled, so I bought another one. I’ll try to get this one sharpened. I was surprised at how long it lasted. It’s for steel and stainless. I’ve made several pounds of chips with this over that time. Hundreds of cuts. I wouldn’t even begin to guess if it’s approached a thousand. The blade, as has everything else, risen to $80, which is pretty cheap when compared to Freud and Evolution blades, and they have blades for steel and blades for stainless. I highly recommend it when the blade with the saw dies.
It’s the saw or the blade that cut cold ?
Hey man I need to cut two things I need to cut wood for a shed project and I also need to cut a trailer coupler witch is 1/4 thick I'd like to buy a saw that can handle wood and thick hard metal my budget is a big deal so I'd like to know what saw should I buy to cut metal and 2x4s ? I don't mind buying multiple blades and 1 saw I want a saw that will cut the metal perfectly.
Tim what model chop saw do you have and blade that you use? Thank You.
It’s the Evolution S380CPS with the stock blade. I also have a S355CPSL that also works great.
Hi Tim. Thanks for the video. I use a chop saw with an abrasive cutoff wheel and find it so frustrating that the wheel flexes when I try to remove 1/16” or so of material.
Looks like I need to save up for an evolution.
Keep up the great work!
Thanks!
If you have a circular saw you could get one of the diablo metal blades it's what I use while I'm saving up for a chop saw
@@tednielsen5271 Thanks, Ted! I’ll check it out.
@@DStein-jn9ls I can vouch for them the steel demon blades will even cut the 7018 weld pretty quickly. I was eyeballing a steel leg and it wasn't straight at all my fault at that point in time because I hadn't gotten my magnets yet
Get rid of that abrasive saw as quickly as possible. The dust is dangerous as it includes fiberglass as well as the abrasive, plus microscopic metal dust. This lingers in the air where you breath it in for hours. It covers everything in the shop, dulling blades and cutting bits from other machines, and is a general mess.
Eventhough I don't cut metal very often in my workshop, I considered buying a chopsaw in the past few years, and once used to it, you ask yourself how did you manage to get precise cuts with an angle grinder or abrasive miter saws.
Rusty, I bought a mini 6" chop saw from Harbor freight. It is great for little projects, inexpensive, lift and move it one hand. So much better than clamping stock in a vice and cutting with saws all.
I've been using my cut of s for cutting cannel 3x1.1/4 and 4x 2 C channel, y question is what is the best way to cut this so that the blade can last longer?
Not much you can do with thicker wall materials. It'd going to burn through blades fast. Just the way it is. Factor the price of a new blade into the jobs you're taking, especially the ones with heavy wall material. That 100 or 150 bucks for the 14" adds up fast and there's nothing worse than cutting metal with a dull blade.
I really like my evo saw. I hate the clamp. It jams, wiggles, and still allowed parts to move. More over it pulls& moved parts so they'd no holding it like you can with the abrasive wheel. Once that happens gurentee, you're ruining the carbide
I haven't had a problem with mine. The more expensive ones have a better base/clamp system. Not sure which one you have though.
Good info! What blade do you find works best for both aluminum and steel (mild and stainless), or do you different blades for each?
different blades for each
@@CamiloSantana I've been looking at the dewalt aluminum oxide blades for steel. I've heard the hold up well. I was thinking of getting a 66 tooth carbide blade for aluminum but not really sure which brand works best.
@@77bubba00 check project farm channel
This video couldn't have come out at a better time, I just bought my first chop saw yesterday. It's an abrasive disc type so probably won't be as accurate.
Very cool! I used an abrasive saw for years, and you can get very accurate cuts by doing the same things I showed here.
@@TimWelds if needs be, do you think it would it be possible to replace the abrasive disc with a metal blade?
@@desb9639 I've always wondered that. Just picked up my first abrasive Chop Saw a few weeks ago, and was wondering if a Carbide tipped blade would work on it
@@desb9639 unfortunately not.
The blade speed for the abrasive machine is far to high for the metal blade.
There is a good reason why the cold cut machine is much more expensive.
@@Bosbulls ok thanks.
In general how long do the discs on these last? Where can you get them sharpened? I'm deciding wether I wish to buy one of these or a bandsaw.
It depends on the stress you put on them, generally speaking, thicker materials or long cuts (where the teeth go through long paths from side to side of the piece to cut) reduce lifespan. Putting too much pressure during cut rather than letting the blade "eat' its way will lead to overheat and reduce also lifespan. Cutting too hard materials will also do the same (stainless steel, high carbon steel), use the blade to cut materials for which it was made. Sometimes using cutting fluid (not simply water), will help to reduce stress over the blade.
The major problems of these blades are teeth breaking or simply coming off due to the above reasons.
Avoid those situations and you're probably good for many years of thousands of cuts.
For the sharpening issue, I don't think there's a simple way to sharpen those blades, as the teeth are most of the time made of cemented carbide, which will break rather than just become dull. It is technically possible to sharpen those teeth using diamond tools, but it will alter the shape of the teeth reducing the quality of the cut.
@@rustygear9370 thanks for the info
Tim have you tryed the weldpro mig 155? Looking for a good first welder that will mig and stick, that won't break the bank! Looking at a multipurpose machine that 110/220. I have a hobby farm and have welded since high school in 1982. Want some I can weld fence or fix equipment. Outside will be running off my 9000 surge watt generator.
Hi John! I haven't tried that specific machine, though the specs and amazon reviews look good for the price. A dual voltage machine that will MIG and stick weld is a great option because you can leave the gas cylinder behind and stick weld something for a repair in the field, but have the convenience of MIG in the shop. Another similarly priced brand that I have used (though not their MIG welder) is PrimeWeld, which has outstanding customer service and good machines at a good price.
@@TimWelds thank you for your response! I will check out the out machine also!
I got one of those evolution saws and it cuts really nice but the angel the blade drops at isn’t straight. It drops at like a 91 degree angle with 20mm square it’s fine but when I tried cutting some 6inch pipe it was a bitch and didn’t work at all.
thanks for the info Tim. I have been having an issue with my evolution chop saw. often when I cut, the cut piece will fly off (violently). even when I lower the blade down slowly. even if I have clamped work piece down tight. can anyone tell me why the cut-off piece flies off instead of just dropping off gently (staying near the blade after cut) (like Tim's cutoff piece does in this video)?
Are you using a length stop? These give me same problem. Also, depending on your saw, check to see where on the radius of the blade the cut is bing made. Try to avoid cutting stock at location on the leading or tailing part of the radius. Make sure that the support for the cutoff piece is at a lower or equal level to the cutting table of the saw.
@@andrewlangley9507 thanks Andrew. I will try those ideas. appreciate the feedback
The length of the cut off piece is the only time that I have had a problem like that. If it is not large enough to fall off of the side of the base, it will try to fall back into the slot in the base that the blade dives into. I know that it makes it hard when you can't just trim a little off of the end. I junked a blade once with a piece of angle. The blade literally bent.
Does anyone know if I could put one of these blades in my woodwork chopsaw or my old abrasive metal chopsaw?
No you shouldnt, the metal saws spin at way lower rpm, woods saws usually spin a lot faster
Can you use one of those blades on a saw that came with an abrasive blade?
I'm interested in this too. I can't see why not providing the blade has the same bore and diameter.
Nope.
No. Speed is too high and it will destroy the carbide.
Absolutely not!
Abrasive disks are meant to be used with 3000 to 3600 RPM while this metal specific blades operate at lower speeds, generally 500 to 1500 RPM depending on the diameter and the density of the teeth.
Using high cutting RPM will simply break the teeth and /or generate more heat than the they were designed for and let them come off. Considering the price of these blades, using abrasive disk will be more economically viable.
That inch you cut off for reference will cost you another legnth of tube when you're 3/4" short at the end. The struggle is real.
I have an evolution saw and was wondering how you deal with the shards leftover from each cut?
bucket o' scrap metal. reuse or take to scrap metal yard to sell
@@CamiloSantana thanks but I was referring to the tiny fine shards of metal produced by the cut. I’ve tried the magnet in the bag trick and it kinda works.
@@gcranch9913 your doing better than me then. I would think the bag would be a for hazard but 👍🏼
I have my saw up against a wall with a 2x2 piece of 16 gauge steel nailed in. chips hit the floor and shop vac from there when project is done.
I use a magnetic sweeper.
How do you mitre angle tho ☹️
👍🏼👍🏼👍🏼👍🏼👍🏼🍺👌🏼
Thanks Tim ! Pray for the people of Ukraine ! ✌😎
Honestly sponsored videos are essentially pointless to watch. I have this exact saw. Frankly, it sucks.
My third one after sending two back.
If you know anything about this saw, the fence is just absolutely terrible and the angle stops are off sometimes by like an 1/8 and totally worthless.
Also, their blades are decent but Diablo Speed Demons are better, last longer, and are sometimes cheaper.