About 5 weeks. I also upgraded the wheels to the Rays Track V2's, with 275/35/19 Rears, and 255/40/18 fronts. I went with the Firestone Indy 500's "Awesome Tires". The roadster used to dip a bit on hard turns, but now, with the sways on the middle hole, along with the new wheels/tires, it handles beautifully. I also went with Stillen CAI Gen 3, Motordyne ART pipes, and Motordyne TDX V2 exhaust, with an Uprev Pro Tune. The car made 310 whp and 278 wtq, on a low reading dynocom. I'm really loving the transformation of the Z, which was already enjoyable. I'm going in next week for a high performance clutch/flywheel, and slave cylinder bypass, replacing the clutch slave cylinder, which just failed this morning. This winter, I'm going twin turbo, with a goal of 500 whp, on the stock internals. Then i'm done. I'm hoping for mid to low 11's at the track, but I also know the car is a bit heavy so we'll see.
John Politano Nice! Looks like you're going for a very thorough build. Ya the slave design is my biggest pet peeve with the HR. Did you do a short shifter and switch up to the RJM clutch pedal?
I just ordered the TWM short throw, but haven't given much thought to the clutch pedal yet. I was going to have the shifter installed when it came in, and then the slave went, so I guess I'll just get the clutch upgrade out of the way. Have you looked into the Z1 slave replacement? It looks to be a good fix. Also saw a company called ATClutch, which is apparently building a CSC all metal replacement, but I'm having trouble finding out about that. I may just go with the proven Z1 replacement.
John Politano Ya I don't know why Nissan designed the slave like that for the HR. I've looked at the Z1 fix, I'd buy it if I had an HR. You should look at the RJM Pedal, ua-cam.com/video/E5cpYiVZNRI/v-deo.html
I picked up a pair of sway bars after watching your video and I was wondering how well the Moog end links held up so far? Any updates or suggestions on end links? I'm going to keep my stock suspension but I just want better handling capabilities and I'm most likely going to leave the sways in the mid settings
Hey man, I’m looking into making this upgrade pretty soon, swaybar/endlinks and all. I’m looking to couple this upgrade with the Bilstein PSS B14 coilovers. Any experience or feedback that you’ve heard from others? I’ve been hard pressed to find any negative reviews on any Bilstein product really.
Great vid man. Yea I remember not having an impact for my end link nuts..stripped and had to use a grinder. 😨 Very sketch but it worked. I agree going with moog and not whitelines. How does the handling now feel with stock springs?
Hey Anthony, would you recommend swaybars on stock suspension? I'm thinking of purchasing front and rear moog end links with Hotchkis front and rear sway bars.
I think you'd get a benefit for controlling lean. Matching it with Bilstein shocks will make it even better, especially during braking and acceleration.
What year it's your Z ? My 2003 350z sway bar looks alot thinner . Im replacing front and back with hotchkis . And Moog end links . Also I suggest using lucas heavy duty grease on all the the fittings .
Great car, I think it's awesome for the sports car crowd. Easy to work on. They're kind of expensive for what they are. A base model 370Z is almost the same price and you get a lot of car. But if you want back seats (which are very small) when you'll have to go FRS/ BRZ.
For racing sway anti roll bars are great. However, for street driving with potholes, bad roads etc., they are not the best rattle vehicle etc? Your thoughts overall?
I don't think they would make the ride too but the car could become more "twitchy" in a long sweeping corner and you encounter a pot hole. For a street car I would go with the lowest setting or the neutral setting. You also want to try to match the sway bar that will work best with the springs you intend to use and the shocks should be valved for whatever ride you intend to use. That way it all works together.
How are the moog end-links holding up? Performance good? Any Noise? I have them on my CR-V but they are making noise, wondering if these ones are made better before I put them on my G35.
That's only on the bottom portion connected to the lower control arm. The top nut connected to the sway bar is ridiculously difficult to tighten, there's a 5mm Hex socket to hold in place, but it will most likely strip. The design is really questionable.
Hi Anthony, If i am replacing just the rear sway bar end links, does the suspension have to be loaded when torquing them to spec? Can i back the car onto ramps and replace them?
They're still in the car. Not sure how adjustable versions will help your situation, since there are even more parts to get loose. Did you try putting blue thread lock on the threads to keep the nut on?
The MOOG seem like a high quality piece. Heavier and thicker than stock. I like that they're sealed and greasable compared to Whiteline. Whiteline is great for a summer or track car, but I don't think would last long on a street car because the joints are exposed.
Is the front sway bar supposed to move from side to side enough to where the stopper rings hit the bushings? Mine moves from side to side not easily but it does move and they are brand new bushings and they are the right ones.
I have a 03 Nissan 350z and I have been noticing a creaking noise at low speeds or when i go over a speed bump. I was told it is likely the sway bar end links need to change. Does that sound right?
Know this is a old video but I was wondering if this helped with the cars understeer. Just got the Hotchkiss sway bar put on and the poly bushings in the front. Haven't had a chance to drive mine since my alignment is f'd and don't want to ruin my new tires.
@@AnthonyJ350 Glad to hear that wasn't a fan of the understeer. Also got my Hotchkiss set to medium so I'm hoping for similar results. Thanks for the reply!
@@SKATESPOTSWORLDWIDE Pretty cheap. I would change the rear one at the same time. If you change the front it will be bigger with that tiny rear stock unit, it will probably understeer more. Unless that what you want.
@@AnthonyJ350 no I just saw on donut media with the hi low they had did aftermarket sway bars and I saw the stillen front for $50 and that’s a good ass deal so maybe I can buy it and just wait till I get the rear and then install both at the same time bcuz aren’t they like $200 new for just one?
thanks for the vid. im about to replace the squeaky sway bar bushing on my 03 gt 350/g35. (i prefer the gt 350 nomenclature. maybe because ive been living in japan since 01. im currently in california. where did you get those moog serviceable links? and what kind of grease did you use? thanks again
@@AnthonyJ350 turns out it wasnt the sway bar bushing thats squeaking, but the control arm bushings. going to do a whole suspension replacement, including struts and shocks
@@blackpassenger Ya, I've owned both on different vehicles, and Bilsteins are just big better built product. You get what you pay for. I think the Bilsteins are worth it and I like the way they're tuned.
KaosTheory360 It's the same layout as factory so if you have a dual setup that works with that it should. I believe Stillen has a different layout that might work better for you.
Hey man my car when I’m driving like 50 miles per hour my car is zig zagging from the back. It’s kind of dangerous. Somebody hit my rear tire 3 months ago I didn’t change anything
Hello Anthony, Thanks for the great video. Do you have a Rear Lower Tie Brace? Is it the Megan racing? I wanted to get one but I truly do not know if I really need it. My links just ripped the mounting bracket out of the rear suspension member. I contacted Hotchkis the maker of my rear bar, but I did not get a straight answer from them.
I was thinking the same. My current concern is preventing another end link bracket failure. Rob at Hotchkis did not know why the racket broke. However, I am am thinking it might be because of my car being moderately lowered?
george sanchez You might be loading it up different with an altered geometry. Hotchkis would know more than me. They have put together some badass cars over the years.
I had the Whiteline front and rear adjustable sways installed with the Whiteline End links. Turned my 08 Z roadster into a handling beast.
John Politano Nice! how long have you had them on the car for?
About 5 weeks. I also upgraded the wheels to the Rays Track V2's, with 275/35/19 Rears, and 255/40/18 fronts. I went with the Firestone Indy 500's "Awesome Tires". The roadster used to dip a bit on hard turns, but now, with the sways on the middle hole, along with the new wheels/tires, it handles beautifully. I also went with Stillen CAI Gen 3, Motordyne ART pipes, and Motordyne TDX V2 exhaust, with an Uprev Pro Tune. The car made 310 whp and 278 wtq, on a low reading dynocom. I'm really loving the transformation of the Z, which was already enjoyable. I'm going in next week for a high performance clutch/flywheel, and slave cylinder bypass, replacing the clutch slave cylinder, which just failed this morning. This winter, I'm going twin turbo, with a goal of 500 whp, on the stock internals. Then i'm done. I'm hoping for mid to low 11's at the track, but I also know the car is a bit heavy so we'll see.
John Politano Nice! Looks like you're going for a very thorough build. Ya the slave design is my biggest pet peeve with the HR. Did you do a short shifter and switch up to the RJM clutch pedal?
I just ordered the TWM short throw, but haven't given much thought to the clutch pedal yet. I was going to have the shifter installed when it came in, and then the slave went, so I guess I'll just get the clutch upgrade out of the way. Have you looked into the Z1 slave replacement? It looks to be a good fix. Also saw a company called ATClutch, which is apparently building a CSC all metal replacement, but I'm having trouble finding out about that. I may just go with the proven Z1 replacement.
John Politano Ya I don't know why Nissan designed the slave like that for the HR. I've looked at the Z1 fix, I'd buy it if I had an HR. You should look at the RJM Pedal, ua-cam.com/video/E5cpYiVZNRI/v-deo.html
btw thanks Anthony! You always have great and helpful vids!
Thanks for your feedback!
Great vid. So much torque you applied them nuts of the stabilizer LINK bar.
Thanks for watching!
I picked up a pair of sway bars after watching your video and I was wondering how well the Moog end links held up so far? Any updates or suggestions on end links? I'm going to keep my stock suspension but I just want better handling capabilities and I'm most likely going to leave the sways in the mid settings
I'm still liking them a lot. I just make sure to grease them every oil change.
Hey man, I’m looking into making this upgrade pretty soon, swaybar/endlinks and all. I’m looking to couple this upgrade with the Bilstein PSS B14 coilovers. Any experience or feedback that you’ve heard from others? I’ve been hard pressed to find any negative reviews on any Bilstein product really.
Av8tor I've had Bilsteins on my other vehicles and love them.
AnthonyJ350 Thanks for the help, appreciate it and your videos!
Av8tor No problem! Thanks for subscribing!
No problem, also, what type of grease/fitting did you use for the moog endlinks?
Av8tor Typical great fittings. It comes with them.
Dude, your channel is fully sick!!! I sure hope our next cars coencide :D
What are you thinking about getting?
Or are you going to wait to see what I get next? lol
No idea, loving the 350z way too much 😎 you?
Sorry I didn't see this response till now. I want to stick with the 350Z but maybe one day there might be a Porsche in my future?
Great vid man. Yea I remember not having an impact for my end link nuts..stripped and had to use a grinder. 😨 Very sketch but it worked. I agree going with moog and not whitelines. How does the handling now feel with stock springs?
thizzface Really good. The new sway bar helps make up for the softer spring rate in the back. Car feels more solid and turns in nice.
Hey Anthony, would you recommend swaybars on stock suspension? I'm thinking of purchasing front and rear moog end links with Hotchkis front and rear sway bars.
I think you'd get a benefit for controlling lean. Matching it with Bilstein shocks will make it even better, especially during braking and acceleration.
What year it's your Z ? My 2003 350z sway bar looks alot thinner . Im replacing front and back with hotchkis . And Moog end links . Also I suggest using lucas heavy duty grease on all the the fittings .
Mine is a 2006
Good video man. What do you think of the FRS? Thinking of buying one.
Great car, I think it's awesome for the sports car crowd. Easy to work on. They're kind of expensive for what they are. A base model 370Z is almost the same price and you get a lot of car. But if you want back seats (which are very small) when you'll have to go FRS/ BRZ.
For racing sway anti roll bars are great. However, for street driving with potholes, bad roads etc., they are not the best rattle vehicle etc? Your thoughts overall?
I don't think they would make the ride too but the car could become more "twitchy" in a long sweeping corner and you encounter a pot hole. For a street car I would go with the lowest setting or the neutral setting. You also want to try to match the sway bar that will work best with the springs you intend to use and the shocks should be valved for whatever ride you intend to use. That way it all works together.
How are the moog end-links holding up? Performance good? Any Noise? I have them on my CR-V but they are making noise, wondering if these ones are made better before I put them on my G35.
They've been good to me. Grease them regularly every oil change. No noise.
@@AnthonyJ350 Thanks for the response. Unfortunately my Honda was stolen yesterday : (.
Anthony would you still suggest these end links for daily driving and spirited abuse ? I know it’s been a few years a lot has changed.
Yup I would if they have the same design. I've had no issues and the car feel great.
@@AnthonyJ350 cheers man
@@lucasd172 You're welcome
If your car is lowered, you want to use adjustable length end links ideally.
Rob PhoboS Makes sense but my car is stock spec so I can use parts like this.
You're missing the most important part. Tightening the end link the the control arm without continuously spinning the thread.
There's a spot on the new Moogs to put an open ended wrench to counter it.
That's only on the bottom portion connected to the lower control arm.
The top nut connected to the sway bar is ridiculously difficult to tighten, there's a 5mm Hex socket to hold in place, but it will most likely strip. The design is really questionable.
Hi Anthony, If i am replacing just the rear sway bar end links, does the suspension have to be loaded when torquing them to spec? Can i back the car onto ramps and replace them?
I would have it on the ground if you can. Sometimes you can't due to space and have to do it in the air.
Hey how long has the Moog lasted you? Thinking if replacing my adjustable ones because they keep getting loose
They're still in the car. Not sure how adjustable versions will help your situation, since there are even more parts to get loose. Did you try putting blue thread lock on the threads to keep the nut on?
great vid as always man
ssmoly Thank you! Much appreciated
no problem. i like you because you really go that extra step and do everything right. cheers mate!
Are moog end links high quality? I was thinking about Whiteline/SPL end links but the moog ones seem much better priced.
The MOOG seem like a high quality piece. Heavier and thicker than stock. I like that they're sealed and greasable compared to Whiteline.
Whiteline is great for a summer or track car, but I don't think would last long on a street car because the joints are exposed.
@@AnthonyJ350 Thanks for the response. Ill keep this in mind.
Is the front sway bar supposed to move from side to side enough to where the stopper rings hit the bushings? Mine moves from side to side not easily but it does move and they are brand new bushings and they are the right ones.
when the suspension is under load and the end links are installed it moves side to side by hand?
I have a 03 Nissan 350z and I have been noticing a creaking noise at low speeds or when i go over a speed bump. I was told it is likely the sway bar end links need to change. Does that sound right?
Probably is, they're a good upgrade, might as well change them anyways.
Did the sway bars make a big difference im on air suspension and would like it to be stiffer
The ride quality didn't change much, just a lot tighter and more control through corners.
Can I do this with my vehicle on ramps? Or would it be better to put on jacks? Only asking because I don’t own jacks.
You can but it's best to do it without a load on the sway bar.
You'll need to suspend the rear suspension and take load off of it.
to remove the end links do you have to lift both sides of the car and the same time
Zach Rome i would to remove any load off the sway bar.
Know this is a old video but I was wondering if this helped with the cars understeer. Just got the Hotchkiss sway bar put on and the poly bushings in the front. Haven't had a chance to drive mine since my alignment is f'd and don't want to ruin my new tires.
It helped a ton with understeer. On the middle setting with the Eibach the car feels very neutral in the twisties.
@@AnthonyJ350 Glad to hear that wasn't a fan of the understeer. Also got my Hotchkiss set to medium so I'm hoping for similar results. Thanks for the reply!
@@IngeniousReaper Let us know how it drives after!
@@AnthonyJ350 Yup I'll let you know
I found a stillen front sway bar on offer up for $50 should I get it and get the rear later?
Is it adjustable and bigger than the factory unit?
@@AnthonyJ350 yes it’s stillen
@@SKATESPOTSWORLDWIDE Pretty cheap. I would change the rear one at the same time. If you change the front it will be bigger with that tiny rear stock unit, it will probably understeer more. Unless that what you want.
@@AnthonyJ350 no I just saw on donut media with the hi low they had did aftermarket sway bars and I saw the stillen front for $50 and that’s a good ass deal so maybe I can buy it and just wait till I get the rear and then install both at the same time bcuz aren’t they like $200 new for just one?
@@SKATESPOTSWORLDWIDE That's a good plan. Ya definitely buy it and save up for the rear. I agree with installing them at the same time.
thanks for the vid. im about to replace the squeaky sway bar bushing on my 03 gt 350/g35. (i prefer the gt 350 nomenclature. maybe because ive been living in japan since 01. im currently in california. where did you get those moog serviceable links? and what kind of grease did you use? thanks again
The links I got from RockAuto.com and just use LUCAS grease.
@@AnthonyJ350 turns out it wasnt the sway bar bushing thats squeaking, but the control arm bushings. going to do a whole suspension replacement, including struts and shocks
@@blackpassenger Nice, are you doing Bilstein shocks?
@@AnthonyJ350 was planning on going with KYBs. But billstein is better, isnt it?
@@blackpassenger Ya, I've owned both on different vehicles, and Bilsteins are just big better built product. You get what you pay for. I think the Bilsteins are worth it and I like the way they're tuned.
Why we have to remove the exhaust?sway bar should come out tru the sides no?
The sway bar is weirdly shaped and goes above the exhaust. Life is easier if you loosen that section of the exhaust.
AnthonyJ350 definitely we need to drop the exhaust,you right!!!
I got oem rear sway bar but want to put energy suspension bushings, if I do would I need to do an alignment?
No the alignment shouldn't change after this. How ever if you haven't had an alignment performed in a long time, it's a good idea to get it checked.
lower ball joints vid soon? :)
Hard to say, my car is driving really good so probably not for a bit.
does this sway bar clear a true dual exhaust?
KaosTheory360 It's the same layout as factory so if you have a dual setup that works with that it should. I believe Stillen has a different layout that might work better for you.
Hey man my car when I’m driving like 50 miles per hour my car is zig zagging from the back. It’s kind of dangerous. Somebody hit my rear tire 3 months ago I didn’t change anything
Sounds like you need and alignment and possibly new suspension components if bent.
AnthonyJ350 😢 i hope that it’s not too expensive thanks man
@@car_venom2265 Hope you get it sorted out easily.
what grease should i use on these droplinks???
I've been using Lucas Red and Tacky stuff lately.
What air compressor you have?
I think it's a 20 something odd gallon Dewalt air compressor we bought on sale at Home Depot a while back.
damn, i nonly need tyo replace my swaybarlinks... was hoping for bit more space
How did the replacement go? Sorry about the late reply.
Hello Anthony, Thanks for the great video. Do you have a Rear Lower Tie Brace? Is it the Megan racing? I wanted to get one but I truly do not know if I really need it. My links just ripped the mounting bracket out of the rear suspension member. I contacted Hotchkis the maker of my rear bar, but I did not get a straight answer from them.
george sanchez I have a Megan Racing brace. I couldn't feel a difference though. But I'm sure it helps tie the structure together.
I was thinking the same. My current concern is preventing another end link bracket failure. Rob at Hotchkis did not know why the racket broke. However, I am am thinking it might be because of my car being moderately lowered?
george sanchez You might be loading it up different with an altered geometry. Hotchkis would know more than me. They have put together some badass cars over the years.
Torque spec ?
Please refer to your service manual
damn i gotta replace my front sway bar and rack&pinion
Make sure you get new end links while you're doing the job.
Just weld to diff
Weld the steal sway bar to the aluminum differential cover?
Why do you want to weld it in the first place?
So many ad’s.
That's how we get paid to make content for you 🙂
Moog piece is also hella cheaper lol
It is, and it's a quality part. Great for a street car that sees rain.