Build A 3D Printer Enclosure // DIY // Woodworking
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- Опубліковано 29 сер 2024
- My Creality Ender3 3D printer is in need of a enclosure. The Ender3 has been a great purchase for me, however one issue i seem to get is the prints not sticking the the printing bed surface, I've tried a few things which has made it better, but whats really needed is a fully enclosed housing.
So i built this enclosure, I had to print the brackets from the front door and side supports, and also the latch for the door. The rest of it is made from easily sourced materials from any DIY store.
thingiverse link to 3D printed parts - www.thingivers...
Links below are affiliate links for my 3d printer and the upgrades I've made to it.
Creality Ender3 3D printer - amzn.to/2TuksLf
Hotbed glass build plate - amzn.to/2IdkUIs
Aluminium extruder - amzn.to/3agRB3C
Filaments PLA - amzn.to/2ToZBZy
Disclaimer: How I use my tools, equipment and PPE is down to my choice. I use these based on my experience of using and operating these tools. Do not think because I have done something a certain way it is safe for you to do say. Always follow manufactures safety guidelines.
Thanks for watching, should you which to contact me, you can do so via the methods below.
Patreon: www.patreon.com/jamesmancave
Instagram @jamesmancave
Contact - jmc.jamesmancave@gmail.com
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The tools and products I use:
AEG: (known as Ridgid in North America)
AEG 18v, impact driver - amzn.to/2OWuD8S
AEG 18v, Brushless 190mm circular saw - amzn.to/2OwcWhq
AEG 18v, orbital sander - amzn.to/2zNZ2je
AEG 18v, Reciprocating saw - amzn.to/2Dubg1C
AEG 18v, Brushless 18Ga nailer - amzn.to/35Ng2U3
AEG 18v, Brushless belt sander - amzn.to/35JNj2I
AEG 18v, Brushless trim router - amzn.to/2OrouTc
Evolution power tools:
Evolution Rage5s table saw - amzn.to/2KKRU9V
Evolution R255SMS mitre saw - amzn.to/2Lyz76u
Evolution R185CCSX+ - amzn.to/2IOud1o
Evolution 2x700mm Track - amzn.to/2ITMEC6
Evolution 2x1400 Track - amzn.to/2KWGnZ0
Other power tools:
Stanley jigsaw - amzn.to/2vUlNPE
Stanley 18v random orbital sander - amzn.to/36dSdFf
Ryobi random orbital sander - amzn.to/2wy1tVA
Wagner sprayer - amzn.to/2OBIFyX
Clamps, jigs and other stuff:
Irwin clamps - amzn.to/2MHnSpu
Irwin squeeze clamps - amzn.to/2MHnSpu
Irwin sash clamps - amzn.to/2P1Io54
Irwin handy clamp - amzn.to/2wn313G
Irwin card scrapper - amzn.to/2PZFvCF
Speed square - amzn.to/2OtceP8
Gorilla wood glue - amzn.to/2P2QFpI
Epoxy resin - amzn.to/2O6bYZY
Triton pocket hole jig - amzn.to/2XVXVvJ
Yikes! You need to use a push stick on the table saw! Thank you for the video
A push stick is only safe you feel it's safe to use. Whilst I do use a push stick, certain times I feel more in control and safer with the stock I'm cutting without a push stick.
@@JamesManCave I cringed when you pushed the wood then moved your hand over that saw... I went over the list a couple of times but did not see any prices about that 3M acrylic plate :\
I knew someone was going to comment on this instead of the actual point of the content. Give it up already. He is a grown man and knows the risks.
@@specsix Um based on his use of a table saw I don’t think he does brother.
@@StubProductions ok Judge Judy? This is really the stuff you want to talk about? Instead of the actual topic ? Thats what you came here for? Huh?
Very nice. Well done. Your skills with designing and constructing are well developed.
2:14 You need to support your lumber a little bit better. If you watch closely, you will see that the lumber on the left side of your blade actually rose up a bit at the end of the cut. This could actually cause kick back, very much like what can happen on a table saw, and is very dangerous when it does happen. Another thing I noticed was you painting your cabinet, and then sanding the paint to give the glue something to hold onto. For your next project like this, do all the assembly first, and then paint it. Doing this will give your glue nothing but wood to bond with. Glue will penetrate the woods surface, giving you a much better bond. Glue will not penetrate paint, and will only bond with the scratches you made while sanding. Overall, this is a very impressive build, and I enjoyed it very much. I will definitely take some of your design into building my own cabinet for my Ender 5 Plus 3D printer.
Using paint & screws is the best James, I think that we watch to many videos where people tend to cuss these joinery techniques but the end of the day it’s all about function mate 🍻🍻🍻👍👍👍👍
Hi mate, fully agree with you. Some jobs require fancy joints, and some like this just need the basics. Pointless doing anything fancy as it won't be seen 👍👍👍
I've learned something new about the table saw that I did not know. . .cutting plexiglass. Great video as you built a "Lack Table" rather than buying one from IKEA. Looking forward to seeing what you create in the near future.
Thanks, just used up what I had lying about in the garage, apart from the material I used for the leg supports 👍
Awesome bro, I've just made mine came here to see how people done top mounted spool :) thank you
I have watched some other DIY enclosures but I like your idea the best so far.
Did you forget to put the power supply outside the box or the cooler close to the walls. The power supply need fresh air to cooling. The same for the cooler of eletronic board.
This would be the case if it was a completely sealed unit, but instead of fitting a cooling fan or air vents I have left a 4mm gap around the side and top of the perspex for air to circulate, thus allowing the temperature inside to rise, but not get to hot
Looks great! Just got a 3D printer for Christmas so was looking to build an enclosure and this is a great start to my designing
Hi, thanks! There are many different styles of enclosure out there, some like to have the printer controls outside, some like me keep them on the inside. It all depends on the temperatures reached inside the enclosure 👍
Excellent tutorial - I'm scaling up your design to make a coronavirus isolation chamber 🤑♠
I think by the time you have printed all the parts the virus may have past! 😁
@@JamesManCave i think he would be done by a year
amazon.....inspired me to want to do something similar.
Nice enclosure. Loving the orange & black vibe you have going on.
Cheers David, it now matches all my power tools lol
wow, keep those fingers atached man! by rhe way very good enclosure!!!!
Thanks, will do!
Looks really nice. The drawer is a great idea. However I would rather build a completely closed enclosure and set up a ventilation to prevent dust from coming in. Since you use yours in your apartment you don't need that, but I want to use mine in my workshop, where all kinds of stuff is flying around.
Hi Sebastian, thanks for the comment. I was really stuck in 2 minds as to where I wanted to keep my printer once I had built this. As you say, if I had of kept this in my workshop I would have made the sides airtight, but lack of space forced me to keep it in the house, and the 4mm gap around each perspex panel really does help to stop the temperature inside getting to warm 👍
Great build,but I feel the electronics should be shifted out
Cracking build mate looks great also iam liking the black and orange theme your doing to match the AEG kit
Haha thanks mate, I swear the colour is pure coincidence, I was gonna paint it gloss white, with orange 3d printed parts, but last minute I thought black may be better lol
@@JamesManCave it looks good
Good looking build james you did a cracking job mate well planned and looks great
Thanks Warren, it actually has improved the quality of the 3d prints as well by keeping the heat contained. Works really well. 👍👍👍
Great job Mate and the orange bits really set it off 👍 😊
Thanks mate, orange and black seem to be my new theme! 😕😁
👍 👍
I cant find the hinges anywhere on Thingiverse, anyone have a link?
Very snazzy! It reminds me of the cell Hannibal Lecter was in in the film 😀
Haha, if I knew what that looked like I may have agreed, bit young to have seen that film lol 👍😁
@@JamesManCave Calling me an old fart?? 😂🤣😂🤣
@@MrGeoffreySmith an experienced film buff. When silence of the lambs came out in 91 (had to Google it) I was 5!!! 🤪😁🤪😁🤪😁
@@JamesManCave do you have a year limit for when films have to have been made by? Anything past a certain date and it cannot be watched? 🤔😂
Haha, no, I just can't recall it ever being on the box whilst Ive been at an age where I would have watched it. Plus I'm to tight to pay for Netflix or a film streaming service. So I'll just have to keep waiting to watch it. 😁👍👍
Just what I'm looking for! I wanted to do the Ikea Lack table enclosure, but they're still closed and I wanna build it!
Excellent, glad to have been of help 👍
Man great enclosure but watching you on that table saw made me pucker a little. You’re going to lose a finger or worse if you keep that up
How much did it cost to build? I am thinking of either building or buying a fabric one. Don't want to spend a ton of money on it. Its the perspex which I believe is the expensive part. Did you cut out the perspex yourself, and if so what did you use?
Can you please tell inbox sizes, so bed can freely go anywhere. Thanks
Nice work.
Thanks 👍
Looks great, dude 👍🏼👍🏼
Thanks mate, works a treat as well 👍👍
this does not make the power supply over heat being enclosed and not have fresh cool air? i want one for my Ender 3 V2 but i am afraid of that
No it doesn't, simple reason is because I left a small gap around the edges of the perspex on the side, this allows hot air to escape and cool air to come in.
@@JamesManCave your power supply is on the side, my Ender 3 V2 has the power supply on the bottom. Rather than make a drawer at the bottom like you did, i make mine with 1 inch clearance from the bottom to the table then i could cut a small circle at the bottom for the fan to pull cool air in, that would probably work? Letting cool air in like you do does not affect ABS prints?
@@ericc8895 no far from it. My prints on abs have increased in quality massively, I wish I had built this sooner. My drawer is less then half the depth of the box, so still plenty of room underneath to put the cable
hi james, awesome tutorial :) just want to know about power supply module its working fine ? or there is need to mount power supply outside enclosure?
Hi, yes the module is working absolutely fine, it doesn't get to hot at all. The gaps around the perspex allow for some small heat loss and this helps the temperature inside from getting to hot.
Wood and heat lmmfao!
How hot do you think it gets? Clearly no idea 😩
what will i gain if i enclose my printer?
Better heat management within the enclosure. Will help your prints stick better to the build plate, and some filaments benefit from warmer temperatures when printing. If you look at all the new printers coming out now, they are all enclosed
Great work! I’ve got the same printer I’m going to make a similar one where to you get the support Ste’s from? Also add a silent pcb to the printer malesba world of difference
Thanks, yes the silent PCB is on my to-do list. I just upgraded the extruder to an aluminium one. Everything I printed I got from thingiverse
James' Man Cave you’ll notice so much difference!, I’m just printing a new fan duct for hot end
Nice job 👍😎🇦🇺
Thanks mate 👍👍
Nice one👌👍
Thanks
@@JamesManCave 👍
Are those legs going to stay on using 2 screws into end grain? Certainly the glue won't hold for two reasons: 1) end grain on the leg and 2) painted table surface. Show us another video in a year with the legs still on, please. But otherwise, I do hope it turns out well for you.
Thanks, it's doing well at the minute, I've used the printer a lot of late, the plan eventually is for it to go on the floor under a desk, no doubt when that happens I'll use the top as some sort of shelf! But I intend to do an update on a few things in the future
Have you tried a heated bed?
Yep, both my 3D printers have heated beds. Since I've built this, the standard of prints has greatly improved
By chance, are the brackets you used on Thingiverse or anywhere online?
Hi, yes they are a pretty common bracket if you look for IKEA lack on thingiverse
Did you find them? I cant and would appreciate a link!
Hello and thanks for sharing this with us. Can you send me a link for IKEA lack? I don't see them. Thanks alot!
@@koleman1075 Did you find them?
@@williambaker6630 are you meaning the hinge or the bracket
I found some hinges, I went a different route for the brackets
where to get that hinges stl files?
Check the previous comments, should be a link there
@@JamesManCave I don't see on any post that you gave that info? I must be blind!
@@williambaker6630 here you go - www.thingiverse.com/thing:2174829
If you are blind, take extra special care
4:40 don't you needed to glue the sides here?
I have, I glued the side up in the previous shot, and in that shot you can see the glue squeeze out as I clamp it up
Its a mistake put the power supply inside..the heat its gone killed..
Well this only really matters if it's a completely sealed enclosure and not heat is able to escape, which isn't the case her. The small gaps around the perspex allow for hot air to escape and cooler air to come in
Hey can you share the file for the brackets
I think if you look through the comments I've already shared it
👍
diy...go buy a IKEA Lack table...then u dont need to do so much woodworking, cause u did build a table just like ikea ;)
Well, it's a 90mile round trip to my local IKEA. My channel is a woodworking/making channel, and this is taller and wider the the lack table, and it has a tool drawer underneath. So makes much more sense for me to build it from materials I had already
How about fire hazard?
1m20s - total butt clench moment. How do you still have all your fingers, using a table saw like that? OMG
Because the blade is no where near my fingers. It's cutting through the middle of the wood, not the top. There's no magic to it
so, this does nothing but look nice on the table. Noise reduction is near zero, as the enclosure is neither tight nor do the acrylic panels provide ANY soundproofing.
There's no soundproofing anywhere, no air filtering, or whatever, so what's the reason for this build ?
50 Euro silentboard would have a greater effect, unless there is another reason for this.
So as I explained in the video, the WHOLE point in building this was to contain the heat, the temperature around the print bed is a lot warmer then it would be without it. This has massively improved the quality of the prints, and helped with bed adhesion. The noise has been reduced slightly, but soundproofing was NEVER the point of building this. The small gaps around the perspex panels allow some of the hot air to escape so the fine electronic parts don't overheat.
I hate this fuckin videos where basically to diy you have to be a carpenter to do all that. Who owns that much hardware? Anyone can do shit with all that equipment!
You either hate these video's, or you hate this video. Your statement doesn't make sense how you have written it
Sounds like you’re a quitter.
also James "off screen I built the coolest most unique part" Lol
@@JamesManCave these