Thanks for all the videos! I love that you have all the same ideas I have, but I'm waiting for my heater to play around. Keep on bursting those bubbles.
So odd to see the pump angled downward, but your setup is basically gravity feed to the suction side of the pump, where the heater is below the fuel tank.
@@Storman77 The reason I ask is, as an example, I know there are differences between some of the Webasto heaters, the thermo top C has a larger injector and different glowplug to their newer thermo top V which has a smaller injector and ceramic glowplug. As a result, the Webasto thermo top V needs almost perfect fueling, even things like bubbles in the fuel line will make it go out. Since you have a different controller in your heater, I wonder if there are other changes which is making your task harder.
@@leighreid5480 Dead right there! There was no choice of air:fuel ratio, with the (other) motherboard/controller combination. No opportunity to change settings to minimise CO for a start. Simply a choice of sea level or alpine, where one might be correct and the other would be wasting energy, at least. I am thinking the main problem with burning engine oil is the volatility - needing a higher temperature to initiate a complete burn in the residence time available in these heaters.
i still have (2) 55 gallon drums from when i was putting this in my 7.3 years ago, i did it for a while, it ended up being more effort than it was worth, ill just buy the diesel, but im following this journey because i still have some i can use, and i know the used oil puts out more heat and it'll be a good way to finally get rid of that. i just got this heater last week and it is crazy how much it puts out, uninsulated shed(office), no worries. definitely the most economic way to heat this space, used a 5 gallon jug for the whole week. also did you ever figure out the 3 digit code for the custom menu?
I don’t think there is a ‘custom menu’ for this motherboard/controller combination. Only basic turn-on, turn-off and alpine. At least not for Norm’s other heater.
@@nitrosrt4 That is the timer function for start-delay or turn-off after setting the controller while actually present. There are only those three digits - four required for higher level programming on every predecessor - and, of course, there is a decimal point within those digits for decimal hours. The new blue controller may be different, but possibly only has more information and setting ability (by virtue of the remote having a display), but may allow timer settings with remote selection. Users of this latest controller should be able to work out what it can do quite soon, hopefully.
I think 20% waste oil 75% diesel 5% gas, kerosene or diesel cleaner might be a better idea..That would still add up to significant savings...But, look forward to seeing what can be accomplished, if you don't try, you won't know...
@@wallacegrommet9343 May thin it (different viscosity) but how about the heat energy of acetone being so much lower than gas oil? Acetone price? It’s that word ‘reportedly’ again.
Reported by other diesel heater owners experimenting with waste oil fuels. They are on youtube demonstrating their methods, results, etc. The info didn’t come to me in a dream, or a fortune cookie.
Thanks for sharing your experiences and your very helpful videos. Because of you, I bought this diesel heater by self. Greetings from Germany!
Here after your cleanup video, glad to subscribe for this content!
99% when I am told, "you can't", I prove i can! So PFF to any nay sayers, just keep trucking StormNL, you'll get there!
Awesome setup!
Thanks for the update.
Like the de boxing idea need to clean mine again. 😀
Thanks for all the videos! I love that you have all the same ideas I have, but I'm waiting for my heater to play around. Keep on bursting those bubbles.
Thanks. The oil pump should point out end up for air to escape.
You have the pump installed contrary to the manufacturer’s installation recommendations.
Im testing a new mix, will keep you updated 😊
Nothing, it runs 2 hrs and then chamber temp starts declining till if goes off. 30/67/1.5/1.5 wmo/diesel/acetone/thinners
So odd to see the pump angled downward, but your setup is basically gravity feed to the suction side of the pump, where the heater is below the fuel tank.
Hey, Storm....if you are interested in another one, you can get a complete kit for 70 bucks. Mine came in 2 days. Just passing on the info.
I did get one lol paid about 100 from Vrbo in Canada
Vevor
Cool....didn't want you to miss out, at that price.
I wonder if the people able to run with old oil have a different version of the heater that is more forgiving?
🤔🤔
@@Storman77 The reason I ask is, as an example, I know there are differences between some of the Webasto heaters, the thermo top C has a larger injector and different glowplug to their newer thermo top V which has a smaller injector and ceramic glowplug. As a result, the Webasto thermo top V needs almost perfect fueling, even things like bubbles in the fuel line will make it go out. Since you have a different controller in your heater, I wonder if there are other changes which is making your task harder.
@@leighreid5480 Dead right there! There was no choice of air:fuel ratio, with the (other) motherboard/controller combination. No opportunity to change settings to minimise CO for a start. Simply a choice of sea level or alpine, where one might be correct and the other would be wasting energy, at least.
I am thinking the main problem with burning engine oil is the volatility - needing a higher temperature to initiate a complete burn in the residence time available in these heaters.
@@leighreid5480 that’s interesting. We shall soon find out
i still have (2) 55 gallon drums from when i was putting this in my 7.3 years ago, i did it for a while, it ended up being more effort than it was worth, ill just buy the diesel, but im following this journey because i still have some i can use, and i know the used oil puts out more heat and it'll be a good way to finally get rid of that. i just got this heater last week and it is crazy how much it puts out, uninsulated shed(office), no worries. definitely the most economic way to heat this space, used a 5 gallon jug for the whole week. also did you ever figure out the 3 digit code for the custom menu?
I don’t think there is a ‘custom menu’ for this motherboard/controller combination. Only basic turn-on, turn-off and alpine. At least not for Norm’s other heater.
@@oliver90owner hold the ok and power buttons and 3 zeros pop up that can be changed, im assuming thats the custom menu.
@@nitrosrt4 That is the timer function for start-delay or turn-off after setting the controller while actually present. There are only those three digits - four required for higher level programming on every predecessor - and, of course, there is a decimal point within those digits for decimal hours. The new blue controller may be different, but possibly only has more information and setting ability (by virtue of the remote having a display), but may allow timer settings with remote selection. Users of this latest controller should be able to work out what it can do quite soon, hopefully.
I think 20% waste oil 75% diesel 5% gas, kerosene or diesel cleaner might be a better idea..That would still add up to significant savings...But, look forward to seeing what can be accomplished, if you don't try, you won't know...
Acetone is reportedly a better choice to thin the waste oil
@@wallacegrommet9343 May thin it (different viscosity) but how about the heat energy of acetone being so much lower than gas oil? Acetone price? It’s that word ‘reportedly’ again.
Reported by other diesel heater owners experimenting with waste oil fuels. They are on youtube demonstrating their methods, results, etc. The info didn’t come to me in a dream, or a fortune cookie.
@@wallacegrommet9343 Lol.....some of the best info does, though. Look at Moses..... ;-)
I did the same, that case is rubbish
Yup , hard to do anything in that case