Article: www.gamersnexus.net/hwreviews/3344-corsair-h100i-pro-review-vs-h100i-v2-clc-280-more You might also like JayzTwoCents talking with us about water cooling: ua-cam.com/video/Ih5Bq2e6iEA/v-deo.html NEW GN Chalkboard T-Shirt: store.gamersnexus.net/products/gn-chalkboard-shirt-heather-black-t-shirt
Hmm, so the 8700k produces more heat than the 7700k, and the 2700x produces more heat than the 1800x, and a cooler with a lower cooling capacity pump is supposed to be attractive how, lol. Well, they do have the fan thing I guess, and bling rrrr RGB I guess also sells. I think this product will still do well, as most will assume the 'pro' tacked on the end of H100i implies that it performs better, somehow. Great vid Steve and crew. B)
Things like flow rate and head pressure will result in improved performance, but really only when you scale it with higher dissipation capacity ie larger radiator, higher performance fans, or under a high restriction loop. Of course no one would put $80 of Noctua 3000rpm fans on a $150 AIO, but if you are trying to break down the data and examine performance deltas, you really don't have a very scientific approach to testing. If you compared a linear line data representation of increasing fan RPM relative to pump RPM in multiple data sets you would find much more interesting results than the pretty redundant 2c comparison you have here, which really isnt enough data to demonstrate much that is conclusive. If you were doing product reviews, it makes sense to keep everything stock. However if you are testing something like pump speed performance scaling, this test doesn't show much. Also you should attempt to acquire the datasheet on the Astek pump, which it seems like you probably could get access to.
Gamers Nexus #ASKGN Speaking of pump speeds, is there a point where you get diminishing returns on them? I know it's theoretical because there aren't consumer pumps the could hit the speeds and fittings rated holding that kind of pressure. I'm just wondering if there is a point where the fluid going too fast would cause it to spend more time in the tubes of passing over components than in the rads.
Asetek has its grip on the market space not because they make good products but because they have a piece of paper that screws every other manufacturer.
I think the primary change for this product over the past generation is a more reliable pump/motor. For a $15 difference I'd say this product is worth it over past generations.
UPDATE: I replace the clear tubing on the rebuilt with braided faucet lines. Been running the re-built ever since! Still have no idea if there even is a flow rate, but it's on a gaming rig and it runs fine. I believe that the clear lines were probably expanding as the coolant warms up, so this would definitely effect flow rate. FYI I have 2 of the first gen pumps. One was used solid for about 4 years and it failed, basically the coolant jelled and then there was a leak. I cleaned and rebuilt the unit because the pump was still functioning. I tried to measure the "Flow Rate" and it was so low, like 2 drops per second! If I raised the rad above the pump, there was no detectable flow! So I had to check the other pump, or the 2 of 2. This pump had less than 2 years on it with very low hours, so it was basically mint. I had the same result! There is no detectable flow rate. Even once I installed clear tubing and new coolant and closed the loop, the flow rate was barely detectable and again, once the rad was raised above the pump, you could not detect fluid flow. So here's my point: the most important aspect of a liquid cooler is the flow rate. On your reviews, tear these down and measure the flow rate! I have seen other videos and rebuilds because over time, the coolant will need to be replaced. Even in these videos you can see the pump pumping liquid in an open bath(or an open loop). I'm just trying to understand how this should be working and how I know it's functioning properly. Other than clear tubing, there is no way to know what the flow rate is or if there even is one. Maybe this feature should be built into these water blocks! Pump RPM is pointless, it's all about "FLOW RATE". JD
h100i pro is keeping my i9-9900k at max 80c on hottest core at 5 ghz / 1.3v no avx offset (during avx workloads burnin for hours). it's doing this while being slightly more silent than my old d15 (which went into my server). the noctua nh-d15 gave me 92c full load temps in comparison and blocked the 1st memory module. i can also see my motherboard again! first time i try aio in 5+ years, alot have happend since the first h50 i see ;) also, it was 40% off so no regrets at all. 6th gen asetek pump is really quiet, can't hear the pump at all unless i stick my head inside the case and fans support zero rpm mode.
Same running my Ryzen 5 1600 at 3.9Ghz 1.35v and its at 55c under load, may i could recuce the voltage but i think its ok tho. Just got my new Cooler Master MB530P case and the Enermax Liqfusion 240 RGB, before i had a shitty case and stock cooler but the R5 beast still pulled 3.8Ghz 1.27v with max 62c. Its a sick combo with my RTX 2070 (A-Chip) and a 144hz + 1440p monitor.
@@BananaOwO Nice man youve got a good one i guess, Im gonna try to improve my OC a bit today, now you motivated me. 😂. Sadly i only have a msi b350m pro vdh mobo, its not the best for oc. Somehow the selected core voltage always is higher than what i set in bios, but thats a general problem with oc. But i get some vdrop causing crashes (1 time yet) unfortunately i have no LLC to manage that.
Going from a 500L p/h pump with 0.5m H20 of head pressure to a 1000L p/h pump with 2+m H2O of head pressure makes a significant difference in a loop with decent restriction (quick disconnects, full cover blocks etc). But increasing the hilariously low performance Asetek pump from low speed to high speed makes little if any difference as the pump can't really produce that much more head pressure or flow rate and the CLC won't really respond to that anyway as it's a very low restriction loop. The fans are also quite low performance as they are cheap, so increasing the saturation rate of the radiator would make little if any difference when the dissipation rate isn't very good in the first place.
The H115i isn't available for the price you quoted, its actually more expensive than the H115i PRO... ($130+) Also, thank you for making this video. Its really hard to find a CPU cooler that ticks all the boxes these days. The info you provide is always well presented and helpful.
@@jogeem5480 I disagree. I'm very interested in all the details, but the format is just boring AF. Just start tape talk half an hour stop tape, nah, it's a real shame because the content itself is awesome and interesting, but I find myself almost falling asleep every time I watch a Nexus vid...
After breaking a firends motherboard with an NH-D15 durrin ga move.... I wouldn't trust that on the board if you ever need to move it tbh. That 2kg of metal snapped that board in half like a toothpick.
ErgonomicChair what the fuck did you do to it, case throwing? 1st rule of moving PCs, only transport it lying down, so that GPUs and coolers can't cause damage.
To me it seems the bean counters have been at work as the AIO market is probably saturated so a nickel and diming policy on the manufacturing is how to increase profits.
I recently got the H115i PRO. The H100i v2 was cheaper but i went with the H115i PRO because it perfectly fit my build aesthetics amd because it was cheaper than the original H115i here, 141€ for the PRO one, 153€ for original H115i
H115i here myself. It’s a great cooler and my first 280mm AIO. Problem is mounting the radiator / fan assemble. Case selection of my current stock is limited. It works great with my Air540 but I wanted more desk space so need to use smaller case. H115i is a PITA to mount in a standard mid-tower sized case.
utp216 mounted one in an NZXT H700 today on the front. Plenty of room on the top too with both areas leaving room leftover for possibly another fan (thinking an 80mm for hard drives).
Shouldn’t you compare 240mm coolers to 240mm coolers on the charts. Watching this video I thought that this cooler did quite bad, but then I considered that it maybe is being compared to 360mm and 280mm coolers. Just a suggestion. If there’s a reason I’d love to know
Just snagged this aio for £35 from a buddy, seems more than enough for the stock CPUs I run. Just wish you'd done some pump-only noise tests as fans are commonly swapped out
So, I few years ago when X99 came out, I built my father a system for him that mimicked my own X79 system at the time. Both had 32GBs of RAM, Asus Sabertooth boards, Windows 10 Pro, etc. I wanted his system similar to mine to improve uptime and reliability for his gaming as much as I could while I'm not around traveling for work. Basically a newer version of my X79 system with one small change. His would have a Corsair H100i GTX to reduce noise since he likes his case beside him. Which it did perfectly once we got it setup. Yah it had some early driver issues with the X99 board since it was never really tested on it. I'll also point out that the systems are not overclocked (just all core boost enabled which will increase heat over stock Intel settings). The first year it performed pretty good, outside of driver and the Corsair utility update issues along with Windows 10 updates taking one of those out... around 2 years later though it was so loud, I remounted it various times, tried checking to see if dust was impacting some how, but to no avail. I ended up replacing it with a Noctua NH-D15 and it's been smooth sailing ever since. The Noctua setup was cheaper and no software issues. Coincidently, my buddy bought a Corsair H100i v1 and his died around the same time mine did on his 7600K setup (not overclocked just all core enabled). He lives in a warmer climate in the southern USA, my father's PC lives in Central Canada with the PC in his basement so usually around 19C room temperature most of the year. This isn't to deter anyone from the new ones, I just hope they've fixed the longevity of the AIOs because the price and hassle of failure versus a good air cooler seems hard to justify to me at least. After price exchange, tariffs and duty in Canada these will be expensive versus a solid air cooler or tipping that plateau to a custom loop. My experience so far has been 0 out of 2 and not worth it in the long run so please, someone give me some hope that these are lasting 2, 3 or more years without trouble :)
Modmat slightly too big for my table, so I'll have to wait for your smaller one. But I'll jump on it when that comes out. and yaaa 20 bucks is worth your autograph lol
FortuneFed my current build is the first time I’m focused on how it looks and if I slap a D15 in there you can’t see anything else. I’ve got the space but I’m not willing to ruin the look. That’s why I’m looking at AIOs for the first time.
John C Yeah for real. I was going to just air cool my first PC but I just couldn't do it. Even the nice ones look so ugly. The only one that even came close for me was the Be Quiet Dark Rock series bc of the color and still good performance. But I ended up going with AIO anyways.
FortuneFed really, no brainer? Aesthetics is still a thing. Just saying, overall I agree that air is safer and absolutely have more reliability. But, especially now with more windowed cases,aesthetics are important, and some people just dont like the look of a large heatsink....not to mention some mobos and ram clearance issues. It would lead to others just going a head and getting an AIO to avoid that covefefe
After much much practice, over a long period of time, I can finally keep up with Steve's performance chart numbers in real time as he reels them off 😄 ...It's taken some doing!
Pump speed has no impact on cooling performance. As long as there enough flow to keep the water rotating through the loop. The water will reach systemwide temperature equilibrium and it will be maintained by the thermal efficiency of the radiating element. You can crank it up to high, cavitating the water a little more and this might allow a little more heat to be absorbed by each water molecule but its miniscule at best.
A higher flowrate through the radiator will help to maintain the temperature difference between the coolant and the ambient air at a maximum and therefore increase the rate of cooling - so yes, pump speed will absolutely affect the cooling (as you see in the data shown). In fact, this is a critical factor to consider when designing any sort of cooling system, be it liquid, air, phase change, etc.
I would recommend the EVGA CLC 240 over H100i Pro for AMD users just for including the bracket. I did end up getting the H100i Pro because it was the only model I saw that listed PWM header coming off of the pump. I don't have enough headers on my mobo for PWM if it's not controlled by the pump.The H100i is fine. It's software lets it idle hotter than I'm used to, but is so quiet, I can't hear it on top of the desk next to my face. Under load, it cranks up and doesn't let my CPU got over 50 C. But I hate that stupid clip install (only included Intel bracket).
I have an "maybe weird" question about your data: why you have info for the Noctua NH-U14S but you don't for the famous NH-D15 or NH-D14? I was just curious to see the performance of top tier air cooler against all your AIO tested coolers and I couldn't find it. By the way, awesome review as always dude! :D
I have the HT100i Pro it isn't all that bad, it was my first ever water cooler for PC, simply put I always Air Cooled my Custom PC's because when Water Cooling came out they were notorious for leaking and Extremely expensive. so for my first water cooler i chose an all pre-enclosed loop pump setup, thus the HT100i Pro. yeah on TURBO Mode the Fans are loud but I found that Running the Pump on Balance and Setting the Fans to a Fixed 80% RPM gives the best performance with lowest noise. Here are my full PC SPECS everything is on a Blue LED Theme even after being nearly 6 years old this PC is still Up and Running the Memory Chips from AMD Radeon RG2133 Gamer Series 16GB (4 x 4GB) 240-Pin DDR3 SDRAM DDR3 2133 (PC3 17000) ...and Videocard have been upgraded from. XFX Radeon R7 260X DirectX 11.2 R7-260X-CDF4 2GB 128-Bit DDR5 and I've added some more SSD and HDD's but the Board and CPU AZZA Solano 1000 Black Japanese SECC Steel/Metal mesh in front Full ATX Computer Case (Blue LED's)
I've never used an AIO, but I'm just wondering what prevents you from running the fans off below a certain temperature? Eg; Wouldn't you just be plugging the fans on the radiator in the CPU fan header(s) on your mobo, and don't all mobos nowadays have fan curves in BIOS/UEFI? My mobo (Sabertooth 990 FX, 8+ years old) can control the fan speed based on temperature with a graph, and you can set it to 0%... Also assuming most AIOs have PWM fans?
You definitely can do this, the difference is this solution is all in one, you plug the fans into the pump area, which has its own temperature sensor. Otherwise you have to pull temps from your motherboards reporting of the cpu, and split or find 2 cpu fan headers.
Steve, please add the 3 variants of Thermaltake Floe AIOs to the benchmark chart. I'm also very interested to see how that gigantic CoolerMaster Air Maker 8 fairs against AIO but I guess it doesn't fit a purely AIO chart
Really nice job as always Stephen, well done!! I really am curious about one thing though. I happen to notice that most America based UA-camrs into PC hardware and building are not testing ever Arctic's products at all. Is it cuz of their lack of competitive pricing in the States or they lack in advertising or their lack of exporting their products at all to America? Despite the fact they don't make any flashy or blingy AIOs, in Europe they are by far the best products you can get, based on their price/performance ratio. Having tested all 3 of their AIOs against most of Corsair's and some NZXT's line ups, they always achieve twice the performance at almost half the cost, minus the rgb stuff. They retail their 120mm at 50€ (56$), their 240mm at 75€ (85$) and their 360mm at 105€ (119$). They are not the best AIOs, as far as your noise/performance list goes, but considering they are all 3 using push-pull configurations out of the box and their 240mm is outperforming every corsair AIO avalaible in the market as of now, I'd really be glad to know what goes wrong with them in the States. It would be so nice to have them in your charts with your specific testing method but I guess I'll have to live with it. I also hope we get to see a 2018 AIO round-up as we did last year.
Mr Steve Burker, glad to see your videos here, btw would you mind a day to upload a videos about latency , input lag on gaming machines? Bios tweaks mostly for Ryzen/AMD cause i find very complex AMD bios settings, was wondering if you can create video with that type of content. Thanks so much for your time and, of course good job doing these reviews, cheers, from Venezuela.
Hey man, quick question. Did you use a commander pro or node pro for the fans? I have the same CPU cooler and for whatever reason my fans aren't lighting up and everything is connected correctly as well. I've been looking at youtube videos to see if i possibly did anything wrong and everything looks the same.
Gamer Nexus. can you straight up tell me what would be the best AIO cooler to go for that produces the lowest noise level? so far the quitest I ever had was corsair H100. I'm currently on a NZXT kraken x52 and its...noisy. is there anything that's come out in 2020 that is better or on par with the old corsair H100?
I am COMPLETELY Done with Asetek Cooler they perform okay but there pumps are pathetic I had 2 fail on me in less than year the said screw it and went with a custom loop and it has been the BEST choice I ever made performance and reliability wise
Joacim Sarén the most expensive piece was the pump in my case it was $139 for the pump/block combo unit and I know the whole H100i Aio was $29 cheaper than just the pump but this unit has been running 24/7 at full tilt for more than 5 years no problems that is 10 times longer than the old units lasted, I currently have 1 x 120mm rad 30 fpi all copper it was $38 and I have 2 x 240mm rads 30 fpi as well full copper and they were $49 each, and yeah 5x 120mm for a CPU is overkill but I can get my 3930k to 5ghz in climate controlled spaces and in a non air conditioned room in summer it is still stable at 4.8ghz it is BEAST even my brand new 8700k@5ghz is only at most 20% faster it is crazy (gonna delidd my 8700k and aim for 5.2ghz or 5.3ghz if the fates allow)
Ocular Cavity Damn I wish I had the money :D then again I'm just a student I'm lucky to have a capable gaming rig in the first place. Btw why not add a gpu to the loop? That many rads should do the job just fine.
Joacim Sarén Simplicity and Serviceability Since the CPU never goes anywhere the only time I mess with the loop is to clean it and since I am paranoid about leaks I designed the entire loop to be able to be removed without draining it or disassembly so I can leak test it after maintenance outside of my system also I Change GPU'S too often since I built the loop I have had 9 GPU'S in this system 4 Kepler titans, 3 titan X maxwells, and now 2 Titan X pascals, and I also hate waiting for the blocks to catch up to the new graphics cards I usually preorder the new ones with there are a 40% or more gain in performance, and now my poor old motherboard has this bug with newer than 1st gen maxwell cards where if the the Bios reset button is hit the computer won't post and gives a B2 error until I put an older GPU like I 600 or 700 series in it (newest that works is my 750) and the it will post and load windows shut it down and put the newer cards back in and it runs fine, if I had to drain the loop every time a friend at a LAN hit that reset button I would go NUTS lol and the gain is usually pretty small somewhere I'm the realm of 10% and for the extra hassle not really worth it compared to the 50% boost the CPU gets compare to the stock 3.2 ghz
I'm been using an earlier generation H100i (V1) for 6 years. My recollection is the warranty was good for 5 years. It seems to be functioning as well as ever but I do wonder whether it's advisable to replace in with a new one about now as a precaution.
@@JAYJAY-ch4ik As If found discount codes and sale prices, I've upgrade or replaced my entire main computer since then. I'd already upgraded the GPU by then, step by step. Shortly after my comment above I replaced the case and AIO, moving up to a 360mm. Since the beginning of 2020, I put in a new PSU then MB, R9 3900X, RAM and M.2 boot drive, then further customization; Noctua 120mm industrial PWMs for the rad and a der8auer Ryzen 3000 cooling block bracket.
Are you sure you didn't make a mistake with the pump speed test data? I have the h115i pro and there is a measurable difference between low and medium, but nothing I can tell between med & high.
Im forced at 50% pump speed cause anything higher that that it makes terrible gurgling sounds. Temps seem identical whether its at 100% or 50% so i guess it doesnt really matter.
you should do a test on adding new fans to a clc. A deepcool captian 240 ex can be had for $70 and evga clc 240 goes for 75 sometimes. Would one of those with two better fans, say, noctuas, outperform a cooler that costs $40-50 more?
Hey Steve, I got a H100i RGB PRO XT (which I think it's the same one like in the video) several months ago. I have a 7700K running at 4.8 GHz and 1.245v. Today I found the CPU temperature reached 85 degree C and the coolant reached 44 degree C. Should I consider it normal? I am pretty sure the pump is working cause I heard the noise when changing pump speed.
I got the Corsair Hydro H100X (paid about 100 euros) witch i guess is about same model as yours in the video, and after more than 3 years still rocking on a recent upgraded ryzen 5800X on about 68" degrees. The pain is to install corectly on the stupid corsair bracket for AMD. is really hard to really center on the procesor.
as long as you have pwm you can stop the fans anyway. even my dc fans can go 0 rpm with software so that is not a "feature" specific to this cooler, all fans can do it as long as you have them connected to your mb?
Temps are really good. don't think you'll see much improvement moving too aio. Only difference is maybe noise. Not worth it imo since you have good temps plus aio have a higher chance failing compared to air, but I've never had any issues with aio
My h100i v2 broke today, pump stopped working. I'm now using an intel stock cooler while i wait for corsiar to reply to my request for a new one. This is the second one that's died, first one leaked after a week, lucky it was a small leak and I noticed it. Then two years later the pump dies on the second one. Can't same I'm impressed with the longevity of these coolers.
does the pump only go up to 2700 RPM? I bought the iCUE H100i Elite Capellix and my cpu temps are 80-90 degrees when gaming from my old AIO (pump speed 5500/fan speed 1800) that kept it at 50-60. Any help?
They had a Cooler Master AIO to review and the mere act of screwing the radiator into place cause it to leak. The product was ruined and there was no proper review, but that story is all the "review" I need anyway. Half the price, but also half the quality.
I used a 240MM in a build and had no issues, temps were good too. Just wanted to see how it compared in their tests. I understand if they had an issue, but I still think they should have gotten a replacement and tested it anyway. 99% of people will have no idea they had an issue because I'm pretty sure they only briefly mentioned that problem in an Ask GN and didn't do a full video on it.
conspirecy theorist I had an arctic fan die on me after a year or so. The two I bought at the same time still work fine after another year but I wouldn't buy an aio from them (assuming one was even available here)
David open loops done reasonably well will have lower temperatures due to the likely higher thermal mass. Most people with an open loop will have a reservoir and a radiator, maybe even two or more. A hard percentage number of potential improvement is almost pointless to toss out. But from my anecdotal experience I would say ~10% improvement in temps maybe more. But we are talking about going from 58°c to 52°c. It likely wouldn't change your world or anything. Not if you're running somewhat reasonable overclocks. I mostly look at open loops as a passion project or vanity addition. Looks great, performs well. But not a game changer.
This is great nice 👍🏻 info GN, I have an h100iv2 on my 8600k OC’ed @ 5.1 ghz and temps reach 75c on full load synthetic, & real world @ 70c. Great cooler! On average about 6 months so far only gaming and lite 1080p video editing. Love snow flake BTW. 😉
I have the h100i v2 and no you don't need it. But if you want to do any customization like changing the rgb light, fan curve, pump speed then you need it. It'll run right out the box on default settings. My pump speed was on max right out the box so I had to install it and set it to quiet. I think you can just close the app once you set everything and save to the on board memory.
Some people have told me that running my AIO would have an easier time running at 100% pump speed than less and even worse if its constantly changing. Is he right? I want to use a good middle point where ill get good temps but my AIO will last A LOT of time. Please help me guys.
I was wondering, you de-lid a CPU add liquid metal then put the lid back on. can you just add the cooler direct to the die without the the lid and use good paste? I remember at one time Intel CPU didn't have a heat spreader and the cooler was in direct contact with the die.
Article: www.gamersnexus.net/hwreviews/3344-corsair-h100i-pro-review-vs-h100i-v2-clc-280-more
You might also like JayzTwoCents talking with us about water cooling: ua-cam.com/video/Ih5Bq2e6iEA/v-deo.html
NEW GN Chalkboard T-Shirt: store.gamersnexus.net/products/gn-chalkboard-shirt-heather-black-t-shirt
Nice video :D
P.S. if you look at the thumbnail at a certain quality, it looks like you have one tooth )
Hmm, so the 8700k produces more heat than the 7700k, and the 2700x produces more heat than the 1800x, and a cooler with a lower cooling capacity pump is supposed to be attractive how, lol. Well, they do have the fan thing I guess, and bling rrrr RGB I guess also sells. I think this product will still do well, as most will assume the 'pro' tacked on the end of H100i implies that it performs better, somehow.
Great vid Steve and crew. B)
Things like flow rate and head pressure will result in improved performance, but really only when you scale it with higher dissipation capacity ie larger radiator, higher performance fans, or under a high restriction loop. Of course no one would put $80 of Noctua 3000rpm fans on a $150 AIO, but if you are trying to break down the data and examine performance deltas, you really don't have a very scientific approach to testing. If you compared a linear line data representation of increasing fan RPM relative to pump RPM in multiple data sets you would find much more interesting results than the pretty redundant 2c comparison you have here, which really isnt enough data to demonstrate much that is conclusive. If you were doing product reviews, it makes sense to keep everything stock. However if you are testing something like pump speed performance scaling, this test doesn't show much. Also you should attempt to acquire the datasheet on the Astek pump, which it seems like you probably could get access to.
Steve, Look at your chart for Noise Normalized @40 dp. Your scaling is off so the legend has "LOAD" wrapping text and it looks funny.
Gamers Nexus #ASKGN Speaking of pump speeds, is there a point where you get diminishing returns on them? I know it's theoretical because there aren't consumer pumps the could hit the speeds and fittings rated holding that kind of pressure. I'm just wondering if there is a point where the fluid going too fast would cause it to spend more time in the tubes of passing over components than in the rads.
Cat.
Cat.
Cat.
Pussy.
Cat.GN
Mayonnaise.
Pump speed performance? Is this a new tinder statistic?
Lol 💀
2 pumps and i passed out
I wish it was
Asetek has its grip on the market space not because they make good products but because they have a piece of paper that screws every other manufacturer.
Sleepy .Time This is America. Gamers rise up
Classic patent trolls
Gravstein Not quite. Those don't make products.
As always, intellectual property drastically slows innovation.
That's not how actual capitalism works, Eoin. There's nothing you can do as a consumer. In the very least Asetek is decent quality.
I think the primary change for this product over the past generation is a more reliable pump/motor. For a $15 difference I'd say this product is worth it over past generations.
"Nothing screamingly wrong" award.
UPDATE: I replace the clear tubing on the rebuilt with braided faucet lines. Been running the re-built ever since!
Still have no idea if there even is a flow rate, but it's on a gaming rig and it runs fine.
I believe that the clear lines were probably expanding as the coolant warms up, so this would definitely effect flow rate.
FYI
I have 2 of the first gen pumps. One was used solid for about 4 years and it failed, basically the coolant jelled and then there was a leak. I cleaned and rebuilt the unit because the pump was still functioning. I tried to measure the "Flow Rate" and it was so low, like 2 drops per second! If I raised the rad above the pump, there was no detectable flow! So I had to check the other pump, or the 2 of 2. This pump had less than 2 years on it with very low hours, so it was basically mint. I had the same result! There is no detectable flow rate. Even once I installed clear tubing and new coolant and closed the loop, the flow rate was barely detectable and again, once the rad was raised above the pump, you could not detect fluid flow.
So here's my point: the most important aspect of a liquid cooler is the flow rate. On your reviews, tear these down and measure the flow rate! I have seen other videos and rebuilds because over time, the coolant will need to be replaced. Even in these videos you can see the pump pumping liquid in an open bath(or an open loop).
I'm just trying to understand how this should be working and how I know it's functioning properly. Other than clear tubing, there is no way to know what the flow rate is or if there even is one. Maybe this feature should be built into these water blocks! Pump RPM is pointless, it's all about "FLOW RATE".
JD
So should we keep ram same all out and not turn all way up?sorry I'm dum😅
@@johnbrooks2122 ? I think you replied to the wrong thread mate...
My 100i gtx with two noctua fans to replace the stock Corsair fans has really served me well. So much quieter, same performance as stock fans.
I will call the cat "Techreview Tiger" from now on
Always Like Techreview Tiger
h100i pro is keeping my i9-9900k at max 80c on hottest core at 5 ghz / 1.3v no avx offset (during avx workloads burnin for hours). it's doing this while being slightly more silent than my old d15 (which went into my server). the noctua nh-d15 gave me 92c full load temps in comparison and blocked the 1st memory module. i can also see my motherboard again! first time i try aio in 5+ years, alot have happend since the first h50 i see ;) also, it was 40% off so no regrets at all. 6th gen asetek pump is really quiet, can't hear the pump at all unless i stick my head inside the case and fans support zero rpm mode.
dr. whet farts what case and gpu?
So the H100I works better than the ND-D15 by 12 degrees...I see this I must need then...
I'm a noob so I don't know what you said is it good enough to cool i9?
Running my Ryzen 5 1600 at 3.9ghz 1.29v and it maxes out at 62-63c on max load. Loving this thing.
Same running my Ryzen 5 1600 at 3.9Ghz 1.35v and its at 55c under load, may i could recuce the voltage but i think its ok tho. Just got my new Cooler Master MB530P case and the Enermax Liqfusion 240 RGB, before i had a shitty case and stock cooler but the R5 beast still pulled 3.8Ghz 1.27v with max 62c. Its a sick combo with my RTX 2070 (A-Chip) and a 144hz + 1440p monitor.
@@The_Dude_420 I'm actually running it at 4.0ghz with 1.34v now @60c under load :)
@@BananaOwO Nice man youve got a good one i guess, Im gonna try to improve my OC a bit today, now you motivated me. 😂. Sadly i only have a msi b350m pro vdh mobo, its not the best for oc. Somehow the selected core voltage always is higher than what i set in bios, but thats a general problem with oc. But i get some vdrop causing crashes (1 time yet) unfortunately i have no LLC to manage that.
@@The_Dude_420 how do u reduce voltage?
@@mrtoasticles7144 You can select the voltage in the BIOS, that way you can make it higher or lower
7:35 : idle
loa
d
yes
Well spotted, here's your trophy.
🏆
3 years later i got it for 80$, thank you for the review
Going from a 500L p/h pump with 0.5m H20 of head pressure to a 1000L p/h pump with 2+m H2O of head pressure makes a significant difference in a loop with decent restriction (quick disconnects, full cover blocks etc). But increasing the hilariously low performance Asetek pump from low speed to high speed makes little if any difference as the pump can't really produce that much more head pressure or flow rate and the CLC won't really respond to that anyway as it's a very low restriction loop. The fans are also quite low performance as they are cheap, so increasing the saturation rate of the radiator would make little if any difference when the dissipation rate isn't very good in the first place.
Kitty cat, in the first 10 seconds?
Sure, I'll like this video.
The H115i isn't available for the price you quoted, its actually more expensive than the H115i PRO... ($130+) Also, thank you for making this video. Its really hard to find a CPU cooler that ticks all the boxes these days. The info you provide is always well presented and helpful.
John C Depends on where and when you check, and also what country. It obviously was that price.
Amd stock coolers tho
how does this channel not have more subs?!!!
John L It's too specific to appeal to a larger audience. I mean you have to admit it takes quite a geek to care about all the details in his videos :D
@@jogeem5480 I disagree. I'm very interested in all the details, but the format is just boring AF. Just start tape talk half an hour stop tape, nah, it's a real shame because the content itself is awesome and interesting, but I find myself almost falling asleep every time I watch a Nexus vid...
I wish noctua would do an AIO
GAnime88 im gonna be reeeeaaally honest
AIOs look kinda cool (^:
The Ryujin. Yeah I want it.
GAnime88 I have a watercooling loop and the d5 pump makes absolutely no noticeable noise even when its right next to me.
After breaking a firends motherboard with an NH-D15 durrin ga move.... I wouldn't trust that on the board if you ever need to move it tbh. That 2kg of metal snapped that board in half like a toothpick.
ErgonomicChair what the fuck did you do to it, case throwing?
1st rule of moving PCs, only transport it lying down, so that GPUs and coolers can't cause damage.
Great content as always!
That black n white nexus shirt is DOPE!
lol my cat attacked the screen as soon as she saw your cat. Great video bro, I actually have the h100i and it isn't too bad for my system.
What cpu?
I come for the tech info. I stay for the cat :D
Thanks, Steve. Good stuff, as always!
I upgraded to the better Corsair thermal paste and it made a big difference on this cooler.
Ok sir
To me it seems the bean counters have been at work as the AIO market is probably saturated so a nickel and diming policy on the manufacturing is how to increase profits.
I recently got the H115i PRO. The H100i v2 was cheaper but i went with the H115i PRO because it perfectly fit my build aesthetics amd because it was cheaper than the original H115i here, 141€ for the PRO one, 153€ for original H115i
H115i here myself. It’s a great cooler and my first 280mm AIO. Problem is mounting the radiator / fan assemble. Case selection of my current stock is limited. It works great with my Air540 but I wanted more desk space so need to use smaller case. H115i is a PITA to mount in a standard mid-tower sized case.
utp216 mounted one in an NZXT H700 today on the front. Plenty of room on the top too with both areas leaving room leftover for possibly another fan (thinking an 80mm for hard drives).
CLC 280 is going for 109 on their site right now. Hard to resist at that point, and the block is still rgb like this new h100i.
I'm running the h100I V2 and it keeps my 3700X running at 4.3GHz nice and cool, 60C-65C under full load
At what wattage?
Shouldn’t you compare 240mm coolers to 240mm coolers on the charts. Watching this video I thought that this cooler did quite bad, but then I considered that it maybe is being compared to 360mm and 280mm coolers. Just a suggestion. If there’s a reason I’d love to know
Maybe different bar colours for different sizes
In most cases the numbers at the end of the name tell the sicze. 115s are 360, s36 is 360 and the krakens are 280 or 360 can't remember.
Last time i was so early, Steve's hairs were short
the resolution on that kitty is very nice
Just snagged this aio for £35 from a buddy, seems more than enough for the stock CPUs I run. Just wish you'd done some pump-only noise tests as fans are commonly swapped out
2 years later, just upgraded my 100i v2 with ML120 fans
So, I few years ago when X99 came out, I built my father a system for him that mimicked my own X79 system at the time. Both had 32GBs of RAM, Asus Sabertooth boards, Windows 10 Pro, etc. I wanted his system similar to mine to improve uptime and reliability for his gaming as much as I could while I'm not around traveling for work. Basically a newer version of my X79 system with one small change. His would have a Corsair H100i GTX to reduce noise since he likes his case beside him. Which it did perfectly once we got it setup. Yah it had some early driver issues with the X99 board since it was never really tested on it. I'll also point out that the systems are not overclocked (just all core boost enabled which will increase heat over stock Intel settings). The first year it performed pretty good, outside of driver and the Corsair utility update issues along with Windows 10 updates taking one of those out... around 2 years later though it was so loud, I remounted it various times, tried checking to see if dust was impacting some how, but to no avail. I ended up replacing it with a Noctua NH-D15 and it's been smooth sailing ever since. The Noctua setup was cheaper and no software issues. Coincidently, my buddy bought a Corsair H100i v1 and his died around the same time mine did on his 7600K setup (not overclocked just all core enabled). He lives in a warmer climate in the southern USA, my father's PC lives in Central Canada with the PC in his basement so usually around 19C room temperature most of the year.
This isn't to deter anyone from the new ones, I just hope they've fixed the longevity of the AIOs because the price and hassle of failure versus a good air cooler seems hard to justify to me at least. After price exchange, tariffs and duty in Canada these will be expensive versus a solid air cooler or tipping that plateau to a custom loop. My experience so far has been 0 out of 2 and not worth it in the long run so please, someone give me some hope that these are lasting 2, 3 or more years without trouble :)
Modmat slightly too big for my table, so I'll have to wait for your smaller one. But I'll jump on it when that comes out. and yaaa 20 bucks is worth your autograph lol
It would be nice to include air solutions (like noctua) on the cpu temps at 40db
That would really be great. The trade off between Air and AIOs for me is that the air coolers are so huge.
FortuneFed my current build is the first time I’m focused on how it looks and if I slap a D15 in there you can’t see anything else. I’ve got the space but I’m not willing to ruin the look. That’s why I’m looking at AIOs for the first time.
John C Yeah for real. I was going to just air cool my first PC but I just couldn't do it. Even the nice ones look so ugly. The only one that even came close for me was the Be Quiet Dark Rock series bc of the color and still good performance. But I ended up going with AIO anyways.
FortuneFed really, no brainer? Aesthetics is still a thing.
Just saying, overall I agree that air is safer and absolutely have more reliability. But, especially now with more windowed cases,aesthetics are important, and some people just dont like the look of a large heatsink....not to mention some mobos and ram clearance issues. It would lead to others just going a head and getting an AIO to avoid that covefefe
Greyghostvol1 adding to this: anyone who has ever installed an air cooler probably isn't too excelited to do it again
Came for a watercooler video, stayed for the cat.
After much much practice, over a long period of time, I can finally keep up with Steve's performance chart numbers in real time as he reels them off 😄 ...It's taken some doing!
Pump speed has no impact on cooling performance. As long as there enough flow to keep the water rotating through the loop. The water will reach systemwide temperature equilibrium and it will be maintained by the thermal efficiency of the radiating element. You can crank it up to high, cavitating the water a little more and this might allow a little more heat to be absorbed by each water molecule but its miniscule at best.
A higher flowrate through the radiator will help to maintain the temperature difference between the coolant and the ambient air at a maximum and therefore increase the rate of cooling - so yes, pump speed will absolutely affect the cooling (as you see in the data shown). In fact, this is a critical factor to consider when designing any sort of cooling system, be it liquid, air, phase change, etc.
Love the cat in the B Roll, maybe we can get some videos of just the cat. Maybe a fun parody like the vacuum video.
I bought the H100i the other day for £65 brand new - so I'm happy with that price point, but had to hear what my boy Steve thought about it.
I would recommend the EVGA CLC 240 over H100i Pro for AMD users just for including the bracket. I did end up getting the H100i Pro because it was the only model I saw that listed PWM header coming off of the pump. I don't have enough headers on my mobo for PWM if it's not controlled by the pump.The H100i is fine. It's software lets it idle hotter than I'm used to, but is so quiet, I can't hear it on top of the desk next to my face. Under load, it cranks up and doesn't let my CPU got over 50 C. But I hate that stupid clip install (only included Intel bracket).
You should build an anechoic chambre and measure noise profiles of different equipment.
I have an "maybe weird" question about your data: why you have info for the Noctua NH-U14S but you don't for the famous NH-D15 or NH-D14? I was just curious to see the performance of top tier air cooler against all your AIO tested coolers and I couldn't find it. By the way, awesome review as always dude! :D
a "maybe wierd" question about your data*
fixed :D
I have the HT100i Pro it isn't all that bad, it was my first ever water cooler for PC, simply put I always Air Cooled my Custom PC's because when Water Cooling came out they were notorious for leaking and Extremely expensive. so for my first water cooler i chose an all pre-enclosed loop pump setup, thus the HT100i Pro. yeah on TURBO Mode the Fans are loud but I found that Running the Pump on Balance and Setting the Fans to a Fixed 80% RPM gives the best performance with lowest noise.
Here are my full PC SPECS everything is on a Blue LED Theme even after being nearly 6 years old this PC is still Up and Running the Memory Chips from
AMD Radeon RG2133 Gamer Series 16GB (4 x 4GB) 240-Pin DDR3 SDRAM DDR3 2133 (PC3 17000)
...and Videocard have been upgraded from.
XFX Radeon R7 260X DirectX 11.2 R7-260X-CDF4 2GB 128-Bit DDR5
and I've added some more SSD and HDD's but the Board and CPU
AZZA Solano 1000 Black Japanese SECC Steel/Metal mesh in front Full ATX Computer Case (Blue LED's)
I've never used an AIO, but I'm just wondering what prevents you from running the fans off below a certain temperature?
Eg; Wouldn't you just be plugging the fans on the radiator in the CPU fan header(s) on your mobo, and don't all mobos nowadays have fan curves in BIOS/UEFI?
My mobo (Sabertooth 990 FX, 8+ years old) can control the fan speed based on temperature with a graph, and you can set it to 0%... Also assuming most AIOs have PWM fans?
You definitely can do this, the difference is this solution is all in one, you plug the fans into the pump area, which has its own temperature sensor. Otherwise you have to pull temps from your motherboards reporting of the cpu, and split or find 2 cpu fan headers.
Great point lol, didn't even consider that :P
XFourty7 ideally fans should be controlled by coolant temp not CPU temp.
Steve, please add the 3 variants of Thermaltake Floe AIOs to the benchmark chart. I'm also very interested to see how that gigantic CoolerMaster Air Maker 8 fairs against AIO but I guess it doesn't fit a purely AIO chart
Would be great to get a review of the CM ML240L so we can compare it to the competitors and vice versa.
Really nice job as always Stephen, well done!! I really am curious about one thing though. I happen to notice that most America based UA-camrs into PC hardware and building are not testing ever Arctic's products at all. Is it cuz of their lack of competitive pricing in the States or they lack in advertising or their lack of exporting their products at all to America? Despite the fact they don't make any flashy or blingy AIOs, in Europe they are by far the best products you can get, based on their price/performance ratio. Having tested all 3 of their AIOs against most of Corsair's and some NZXT's line ups, they always achieve twice the performance at almost half the cost, minus the rgb stuff. They retail their 120mm at 50€ (56$), their 240mm at 75€ (85$) and their 360mm at 105€ (119$). They are not the best AIOs, as far as your noise/performance list goes, but considering they are all 3 using push-pull configurations out of the box and their 240mm is outperforming every corsair AIO avalaible in the market as of now, I'd really be glad to know what goes wrong with them in the States. It would be so nice to have them in your charts with your specific testing method but I guess I'll have to live with it. I also hope we get to see a 2018 AIO round-up as we did last year.
Mr Steve Burker, glad to see your videos here, btw would you mind a day to upload a videos about latency , input lag on gaming machines? Bios tweaks mostly for Ryzen/AMD cause i find very complex AMD bios settings, was wondering if you can create video with that type of content.
Thanks so much for your time and, of course good job doing these reviews, cheers, from Venezuela.
Hey man, quick question. Did you use a commander pro or node pro for the fans? I have the same CPU cooler and for whatever reason my fans aren't lighting up and everything is connected correctly as well. I've been looking at youtube videos to see if i possibly did anything wrong and everything looks the same.
Gamer Nexus. can you straight up tell me what would be the best AIO cooler to go for that produces the lowest noise level? so far the quitest I ever had was corsair H100. I'm currently on a NZXT kraken x52 and its...noisy. is there anything that's come out in 2020 that is better or on par with the old corsair H100?
Such a gr8 vid
I am COMPLETELY Done with Asetek Cooler they perform okay but there pumps are pathetic I had 2 fail on me in less than year the said screw it and went with a custom loop and it has been the BEST choice I ever made performance and reliability wise
Ocular Cavity how expensive was it?
Joacim Sarén the most expensive piece was the pump in my case it was $139 for the pump/block combo unit and I know the whole H100i Aio was $29 cheaper than just the pump but this unit has been running 24/7 at full tilt for more than 5 years no problems that is 10 times longer than the old units lasted, I currently have 1 x 120mm rad 30 fpi all copper it was $38 and I have 2 x 240mm rads 30 fpi as well full copper and they were $49 each, and yeah 5x 120mm for a CPU is overkill but I can get my 3930k to 5ghz in climate controlled spaces and in a non air conditioned room in summer it is still stable at 4.8ghz it is BEAST even my brand new 8700k@5ghz is only at most 20% faster it is crazy (gonna delidd my 8700k and aim for 5.2ghz or 5.3ghz if the fates allow)
Ocular Cavity Damn I wish I had the money :D then again I'm just a student I'm lucky to have a capable gaming rig in the first place. Btw why not add a gpu to the loop? That many rads should do the job just fine.
Joacim Sarén Simplicity and Serviceability Since the CPU never goes anywhere the only time I mess with the loop is to clean it and since I am paranoid about leaks I designed the entire loop to be able to be removed without draining it or disassembly so I can leak test it after maintenance outside of my system also I Change GPU'S too often since I built the loop I have had 9 GPU'S in this system 4 Kepler titans, 3 titan X maxwells, and now 2 Titan X pascals, and I also hate waiting for the blocks to catch up to the new graphics cards I usually preorder the new ones with there are a 40% or more gain in performance, and now my poor old motherboard has this bug with newer than 1st gen maxwell cards where if the the Bios reset button is hit the computer won't post and gives a B2 error until I put an older GPU like I 600 or 700 series in it (newest that works is my 750) and the it will post and load windows shut it down and put the newer cards back in and it runs fine, if I had to drain the loop every time a friend at a LAN hit that reset button I would go NUTS lol and the gain is usually pretty small somewhere I'm the realm of 10% and for the extra hassle not really worth it compared to the 50% boost the CPU gets compare to the stock 3.2 ghz
I'm been using an earlier generation H100i (V1) for 6 years. My recollection is the warranty was good for 5 years. It seems to be functioning as well as ever but I do wonder whether it's advisable to replace in with a new one about now as a precaution.
Definitely since the pump could be worn. The seals preventing leaks could disintegrate. Don’t wait till it’s late
@@JAYJAY-ch4ik As If found discount codes and sale prices, I've upgrade or replaced my entire main computer since then. I'd already upgraded the GPU by then, step by step. Shortly after my comment above I replaced the case and AIO, moving up to a 360mm.
Since the beginning of 2020, I put in a new PSU then MB, R9 3900X, RAM and M.2 boot drive, then further customization; Noctua 120mm industrial PWMs for the rad and a der8auer Ryzen 3000 cooling block bracket.
Are you sure you didn't make a mistake with the pump speed test data? I have the h115i pro and there is a measurable difference between low and medium, but nothing I can tell between med & high.
Which is the best cooler for ryzen 75800x
should i always have my aio pump running 100%? is that the setting i want in bios?
Im forced at 50% pump speed cause anything higher that that it makes terrible gurgling sounds. Temps seem identical whether its at 100% or 50% so i guess it doesnt really matter.
you should do a test on adding new fans to a clc. A deepcool captian 240 ex can be had for $70 and evga clc 240 goes for 75 sometimes. Would one of those with two better fans, say, noctuas, outperform a cooler that costs $40-50 more?
Swiftech use to make AIO's, not sure if they still do
Hey Steve, I got a H100i RGB PRO XT (which I think it's the same one like in the video) several months ago. I have a 7700K running at 4.8 GHz and 1.245v. Today I found the CPU temperature reached 85 degree C and the coolant reached 44 degree C. Should I consider it normal? I am pretty sure the pump is working cause I heard the noise when changing pump speed.
I got the Corsair Hydro H100X (paid about 100 euros) witch i guess is about same model as yours in the video, and after more than 3 years still rocking on a recent upgraded ryzen 5800X on about 68" degrees. The pain is to install corectly on the stupid corsair bracket for AMD. is really hard to really center on the procesor.
We need a video completely hosted by the cat
I'm looking at this because my current pump is garbo and my idle temps are like 50C-60C
Can you please check out the new ID cooling 360 clc Rad? Love your in depth reviews Steve!
as long as you have pwm you can stop the fans anyway. even my dc fans can go 0 rpm with software so that is not a "feature" specific to this cooler, all fans can do it as long as you have them connected to your mb?
Bro, what about h100i elite capelix ? is it good enough?
my noctua air cooler idles at 25c and never goes above 55c when i game. no need for an aio then eh? or should i get one.
Temps are really good. don't think you'll see much improvement moving too aio. Only difference is maybe noise. Not worth it imo since you have good temps plus aio have a higher chance failing compared to air, but I've never had any issues with aio
My question is what these temps are on. Like what type of PC? An i7? I don’t really know what these temps are on; what type of pc.
Is it worth buying the antec AIO coolers as the price of a antec 360mm Aio is similar to an corsair or coolermaster 240mm Aio??????
My h100i v2 broke today, pump stopped working. I'm now using an intel stock cooler while i wait for corsiar to reply to my request for a new one. This is the second one that's died, first one leaked after a week, lucky it was a small leak and I noticed it. Then two years later the pump dies on the second one. Can't same I'm impressed with the longevity of these coolers.
just got a H115i Pro for 109 on prime day. I was going to replace the thermal compound, but maybe not for only 2 degrees. What do you think?
Yeah thats what I was thinking. At this point, I will try the stock paste and see what the thermals are.
I have one on a 3900x and i notice it stays hot at the water entrance and exit of the radiator only. The rest of the radiator stays cool.
Where is the Thermaltake Floe Riing on these? A lot of outlets say it does really well.
I would like to see you do a test on the Deepcool Castle and see how it performs
does the pump only go up to 2700 RPM? I bought the iCUE H100i Elite Capellix and my cpu temps are 80-90 degrees when gaming from my old AIO (pump speed 5500/fan speed 1800) that kept it at 50-60. Any help?
Did you solve this? my 5900x is touching 90c so came here and wondering if i need more thermal paste?
Some modders took the liqfusion 240 apart and applied a Hardline build to it. Do you know what that might require?
Not sure why, but I was expecting to see thermals after applying your own TIM.
Can someone tell , can i Run Fans on Quiet , and Pump leave on balance mode ? Just worried about not to damage it h115i platinium
is this better than the h100i v2? im getting a 9900k and thinking of this cooler. im sticking to 240 aio.
At 0:02 to 0:15
New host....
Who is the cute new hostess??
When are you guys going to test Cooler Master's AIOs? They are basically half the price of nearly everyone else for the same size radiator.
They had a Cooler Master AIO to review and the mere act of screwing the radiator into place cause it to leak. The product was ruined and there was no proper review, but that story is all the "review" I need anyway. Half the price, but also half the quality.
I used a 240MM in a build and had no issues, temps were good too. Just wanted to see how it compared in their tests. I understand if they had an issue, but I still think they should have gotten a replacement and tested it anyway. 99% of people will have no idea they had an issue because I'm pretty sure they only briefly mentioned that problem in an Ask GN and didn't do a full video on it.
conspirecy theorist I had an arctic fan die on me after a year or so. The two I bought at the same time still work fine after another year but I wouldn't buy an aio from them (assuming one was even available here)
Steve do you think it would make sense to put Noctua A12x25s on the EVGA CLC 280?
Always been curious how these types of pumps held up compared to a good open loop pump. I've had a couple H100i v2s in the past on builds I sold.
David open loops done reasonably well will have lower temperatures due to the likely higher thermal mass. Most people with an open loop will have a reservoir and a radiator, maybe even two or more.
A hard percentage number of potential improvement is almost pointless to toss out. But from my anecdotal experience I would say ~10% improvement in temps maybe more. But we are talking about going from 58°c to 52°c. It likely wouldn't change your world or anything. Not if you're running somewhat reasonable overclocks.
I mostly look at open loops as a passion project or vanity addition. Looks great, performs well. But not a game changer.
Could you add a D15 to the 40dB test? Would be nice to see how these do against top level air cooling
I like Corsair offerings in AIO coolers but currently I'm way more interested in the ROG Ryujin 360. Anything new on that?
I want you to make a test for the best fans for rads at 40db.
This is great nice 👍🏻 info GN, I have an h100iv2 on my 8600k OC’ed @ 5.1 ghz and temps reach 75c on full load synthetic, & real world @ 70c. Great cooler! On average about 6 months so far only gaming and lite 1080p video editing. Love snow flake BTW. 😉
Do I have to use iCUE? Or will the cooler do its job without the software. NZXT software is required wondering if corsair is the same.
I have the h100i v2 and no you don't need it. But if you want to do any customization like changing the rgb light, fan curve, pump speed then you need it. It'll run right out the box on default settings. My pump speed was on max right out the box so I had to install it and set it to quiet. I think you can just close the app once you set everything and save to the on board memory.
Some people have told me that running my AIO would have an easier time running at 100% pump speed than less and even worse if its constantly changing. Is he right? I want to use a good middle point where ill get good temps but my AIO will last A LOT of time. Please help me guys.
Corsair recommend setting pump header to full speed in bios and AIO to extreme performance in iCue. Product has a 5 year warranty,
This cooler is now $99 on Amazon is it worth it at this price point?
I was wondering, you de-lid a CPU add liquid metal then put the lid back on. can you just add the cooler direct to the die without the the lid and use good paste? I remember at one time Intel CPU didn't have a heat spreader and the cooler was in direct contact with the die.
Dave some coolers actually do this but the risk is high because you could crack the die.
Why you do not review cooler master coolers ? Corsair evga are not available near me
I know there is a chalkboard T-Shirt is there a White board T-shirt?
How are users hitting 60c coolant temps to experience those hotspots?
Is it enough for a i7 9700k at 5ghz?
id recommend the h150i pro
cat in first 5 seconds gets auto like