2007 Honda CR-V P2646 code. VTEC Oil Pressure Switch issue.
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- Опубліковано 3 лют 2020
- Diagnosis of a P2646 code on a 2007 Honda CR-V. Rocker Arm Actuator System Performance
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Due to factors beyond the control of CharlesAndCars, it cannot guarantee against unauthorized modifications of this information, or improper use of this information. CharlesAndCars assumes no liability for property damage or injury incurred as a result of any of the information contained in this video. CharlesAndCars recommends safe practices when working with power tools, automotive lifts, lifting tools, jack stands, electrical equipment, blunt instruments, chemicals, lubricants, or any other tools or equipment seen or implied in this video. Due to factors beyond the control of CharlesAndCars, no information contained in this video shall create any express or implied warranty or guarantee of any particular result. Any injury, damage or loss that may result from improper use of these tools, equipment, or the information contained in this video is the sole responsibility of the user and not CharlesAndCars. - Авто та транспорт
can we give this guy a round of Applause to answering people's questions on here.
Good, thorough explanation of electronic diagnosing and how-to of replacement. Quick too. Many thanks friend.
Glad it helped
Thanks so much for the video. I had already changed my VVT solenoid assembly and still the lights were on. Changed my oil and problem solved. Very helpful thanks!
Glad it helped
Awesome, I have a 2006 CRV that was gifted to me from my Mom. It’s got 272,xxx miles and I had this issue pop up a couple days ago after it sat for a couple moths. This will be a huge help for diagnosing it. Thank you! FWIW I’m trying an oil change and the oe filter before I trouble shoot it. Read the Honda tsb that said aftermarket filters can potentially cause this issue and I recently changed filter brands.
Gave my 2007 crv to my son. Now needs work. Very helpful demo. You made me look smart to my son. Thanks
Glad I could help
Bought a crv at dealer with this code. They say they need to clean that thing. Hopefully, it does the job. They assured me it's easy. Awesome video.
Thank you, sir. Nice video. Going to attempt it.
Just what I needed thanks brother!
👍😎
Nice video!
For what it’s worth for others who experience “limp mode” - check engine light, vsa light, warning light combo. My ‘07 crv went into limp mode, turned it off for 5 minutes, checked oil (ok), turned it on and only the check engine light was illuminated - fully operational to get you where you’re going to work on it.
Had the code read and it was the code in the video. Replaced the vtec unit (annoying place to work) and had no problems - until about 4 months later. Same limp mode every few months now. I disconnect the battery in each instance and the problem goes away for a few months. If I find someone with the diagnostic tool in the video, I’ll check the signal for the vtec unit.
More recently, I’m starting to have low oil pressure indicated when I decelerate. I’m assuming my oil is too thin for bearing tolerance now that the mileage is >200k. But next step is vtec troubleshooting.
low oil pressure can absolutely cause this issue.
Great video, helped very much indeed! 🤠
Glad it helped!
Thank you for this video. I replace part and no more VSA light but how do I reset the CEL? Trying to find the fuse for the 07 CRV
very helpful thank you
You are awesome. THANK YOU!
glad it helped
Awesome video. On our 2006 Accord I am getting P2649. I verified the voltage to the blue black wires at the oil pressure sensor is 12v and I do have ground at the other wire. Unfortunately my scanner won't check the coil side connector. On the coil side I get 3.3V on the green yellow wire and have ground on the black wire. Confused.........
Niceeee videooo👍👍👍
Hey CHarles, when chking the 12volts to battery, there is a drain on the voltage....starts to drop. Starts out at about 10 then slowly drops while multimeter connected to plug (probing the blueblk wire on switch plug not sensor plug) Any suggestions? Do I now have to find the drain on voltage, like a wire grounding? grrrrrr
What is the scanner that you're using to check the signal from each part? All I have right now is the basic $50 code reader that plugs in underneath the steering wheel. What would you recommend that I get to be able to see exactly what parts are talking to the ECU like that?
That's an autel ms906bt. Hard to recommend a specific scanner. The higher end scanners are not worth the cost for most people as they won't use it enough to justify the cost.
Very helpful, but I checked my connector at oil pressure switch and I didn’t have power going to it? I just used test light,not voltmeter. I figure if I have voltage it would light but nothing. I checked gr side (yellow/gr) and i did have a good ground. Any suggestions on the power side. I looked for fuse for it and nothing. What would be best approach to why I have no power there with ign on/engine off
You would need to use a wiring diagram and determine the routing of the power. Possibly there's a fuse for it that might be bad, or a wiring issue.
Steve did you ever fix the problem
The check engine light on my 2007 Honda CR-V came on, and the code was P2647, so I purchased the VVT solenoid and changed it. After changing it the same code came back on. Any suggestions on why it came back on?
Question: for the replacement part, did you go with OEM from Honda? I see after market products as well.
OEM only for this one.
I replaced the whole vtec solenoid and it still throws a p2647 code. I am going to use a multimeter to check the wiring. It’s weird because my car only bucks above 2500 rpm’s every once in awhile, other than that it drives find 98% of the time when above 2500/3000 rpm’s. I am getting annoyed with this stupid part haha I really wish I could just know wth is going on with my car. Thanks for the video!
HAD THIS HAPPEN TODAY 2008 Honda CRV.. CAUSED ENGINE LIGHT VSA LIGHT AND ! TRIANGLE LIGHT. IT WAS FROM VERY LOW OIL. Wenr ahead and changed oil ten minutes after this issue occurred and all is well.. hope this helps
Having the same exact issue started Monday
so i have replaced that part twice 96 months later found a split in one of the side metal peice for gasket), the solenoid at the end of the block, changed oil/filter TWICE (full synth) and still have low oil pressure. after a few miles above 50 MPH the VSA stays on etc... any thoughts.. oil pump or chain tensioner?
Only way to know for sure would be to t in an oil pressure gauge and see if the oil pressure is actually low.
@@CharlesAndCars according to the garage 7-8 lbs or psi? but good flow?
I took my crv to a mechanic but I don’t have an engine light on. But they said they wanna change my oil pressure switch for some reason. How do I tell if it’s bad or not with no engine light on?
I would think that you would have an engine light. I believe that code turns the engine light on. Are they seeing that code with the scanner, but no engine light?
I have this problem on my 2006. Check engine light came on last week. I had. Mechanic work on it this past Tuesday and he said it was fixed. Unfortunately the check engine light came back on today. The car also jerks a bit at seemingly random times. Can this problem cause the car to jerk? Getting it looked at again on Monday.
Hard to know what you mean by jerk. Low oil pressure could cause issues with bearing which could cause a symtom similiar to what you said, but hard to really know.
Hey, thanks for the very informative video. I have 04 CRV with two codes (P2646 and P2647). I changed the oil and it didn't solve the problem. Then I changed the whole unit (aftermarket piece from Autozone) and rest the computer and drove it for a few miles and the check engine light came back on with the same two codes? What do you think I should do next?
Hard to say. Couple of things. Did you test to ensure you don't have a problem in the wiring. I would only use oem Honda solenoid. I wouldn't use aftermarket solenoid.
@@CharlesAndCars Thanks for the response brother. I changed the oil again used only 5w20 with a new filter. I also replaced the Oil pressure switch. And still doing the same thing. Actually both (Vtec solenoid and the oil pressure switch are aftermarkets). Does that matter? Both parts look genuine. Also what part of wiring I
should check ? Thanks
@@linguistenglish244 did you end up fixing the problem ?
my 2008 Honda CR-V had a code of P2646 and P1009. But what concerns me is that I had an Oil Change a Week ago.. and the car drove fine.. until yesterday. Now the car won't Start. The engine turns over but makes a weird sound but it won't start.. The Oil level is at the correct level... Is it possible that if I have an Oil Pressure Sensor problem that My engine will Turn Over but NOT START ????? thanks for any response..
That's really hard to say what might be going on. Weird noise? If you clear flood and crank (pedal to the floor so it won't start) does it sound consistent cylinder to cylinder as it cranks? Look for relative compression test videos and try that first.
@@CharlesAndCars I Have A 2005 Honda C-RV That Thew A VSA, And Oil Pressure Code. It Goes Into Limp Mode When You Try To Accelerate. I'm Hoping That This Will Cure It.
Hey my crv has had the limp mode problem for a while and new it is not starting and doing the same thing you described. You find anything that worked?
Now this is an informative video! Thank you for not making a copy of a copy of a copy oc a poopt of somebody else's video
2008 Honda CRV my vsa light comes on after warms up and wen I shut off and restart it stays off for a few minutes code is p1129 so should I replace the map sensor and that cylnoid
Do a search on youtube for honda crv p1129 and take a look. You want to make sure that you don't have a wiring issue, don't just throw parts at it. Go with Oem if you replace the sensor. Aftermarket for sensors is not a good idea.
Could you please provide the part number for an OEM replacement I can only find the oil pressure sensor just in case I need to replace it after an oil change…
Don't know the part number for your vehicle, but do a search for honda cr-v vtec solenoid assembly for your year and that will show you. Use OEM.
Iv replaced the valve twice and done two oil changes in 100 miles and after the motor warms up it still goes into limp mode with this code. Any ideas? Mines a 2005 with 213K miles. Just bought it and drove it a few hundred miles before the issue surfaced.
Really hard to say. Look at the overall condition/cleanliness inside the valve cover and get the oil pressure checked. You might have low oil pressure. Just bought it. I don't know where you bought it but I've seen scenarios like what you mentioned too many times from people who clear the codes, sell the car, and then the codes come back. If you don't have a scanner you can't see that the codes have been cleared. Don't know in your case if that's what happened or not.
@@CharlesAndCars I have a cheap scanner that can tell me codes and clear it. I wonder if there’s a way to bypass this oil sensor so vtec works? This is a secondary car and I just want to be able to drive it not replace a motor until it actually does blow 😆 thank you for the reply!
I have the same problem, the wire of the Oil Pressure Sensor does not have power, no 12v
Did you mention the part # anywhere? Thanks
Don't think I did. Should be 15810-RAA-A03
Which connector are you testing at 4:00 in? You say "unplugged" for testing.
I'm assuming you mean this connector.
If I remember it's the oil pressure switch. (2 wire on top of the assembly close to the engine).
@@CharlesAndCars thanks! I’ve replaced everything with oem parts and still getting 2646. Wondering if it’s the connector or wiring instead.
So, I finally tested the oil pressure switch connector black and blue wire using your directions. It showed 11.8 volts. I then tested the voltage directly at the battery. It fluctuated between 12.1-12.2 volts. It’s a three year old battery. Do you think the 11.8 measurement at the connector indicates bad wiring resistance or just a normal parasitic loss over the length of the wiring harness?
Does it have to be honda part or can I use denso?
I go with OEM on this part. Not sure if denso makes it for Honda or not.
4:38 blue black wire i am getting 11.20 volts not good?
Hard to say, should be battery voltage. Check voltage at the battery. Is it low? (11.2)
What does it mean if I pass the scanner test but do not have 12 volts on my blue blck
The blue/black to the oil pressure switch should be 12 volts (key on engine off). If you don't have power there then you need to check fuses/wire for break. I don't remember exactly what the blue/black runs to, but I would think there's a fuse for it...
Hello Charles,
I've been having the same issue with my 2007 crv, replace the exact same part and still doing the same thing.
My oul level is good and clean and also everything was cleaned when I replace the part so what do you suggest.
Make sure when you change the oil to only use 5w20 as indicated on filler cap. The solenoid is sensitive to oil viscosity. I had same exact issue on my 2003 Element, same code, same bucking at 2700 rpm. I had previously thought thicker oil-better. Definitely not the case. Changed the oil with the required 5w20 and no issue after.
@@Gringochulo1 ooooh that's the reason why, I have been doing a heavier oil and that's probably why it started doing that.
@@wanderreyes2261 try changing with 5w20 oil and hopefully you will be good. Elements (k24a engines in general) are good for 300k if taken care of maintenance wise.
@@Gringochulo1 when I scanned it, it says P-2646 low voltage.
@@wanderreyes2261 Try changing oil with 5w20 and a new filter. Drive it around for a bit and light may go off. If the car has not had the oil changes kept up with, the screen in the vtec solenoid may be clogged up. It is a very fine screen and clogs up if the oil is run dirty too long.
I ALMOST took my 2008 CRV to the dealer and god knows how much they would have charged me for this. I immediately had my husband check the oil and it was super low so we got some oil put it in the car and drove it around. Shortly after, the engine light went off. So fingers crossed I will be able to keep my car just a wee bit longer.
Would 11.8 v been an issue
Don't believe so, just means the battery is down a little. Could always put a charger on the battery and make sure it's fully up to charge.
Do you need to drain your oil before taking the solenoid off?
No
@@CharlesAndCars so I changed the solenoid and cleared the code, took for a drive and about 5 mins in the check engine and VSA light came back on and I couldn't go over 3000 rpms. What else could cause this?
@@Deadpool-rm7nz did you ever find out the problem I have the same issue with mines
Faulty solenoid. 60 buck and 20 minutes later it was good.
this happened to me just last night. car repair shop stated same thing! i have had my 07 CRV for 13 years. 1st owner, 215K miles. Driving her until she dies!
Im change the light is on again same Code P2646
How did u remove the little push clip?
squeeze behind the bracket with a pair of needle nose pliers.
Nice. Where in jersey?
Southern, east of Philadelphia
@@CharlesAndCars prob only decent mechanic down here. I’m in Pennsauken, used to be in WD. do you have a shop?
No, do it because I like to work on cars and it's a way for me to help people.
@@CharlesAndCars dig it. Wel
Kudos
Did all this and still giving me 2646. Not some one cut the cats off and it has no 02 sensors on it. My job sucks customer dose not want the 02 sensors put back on. I'm about to tell them fo r the f off and go somewhere else
Car will not function well without the O2 sensors. Don't know how the customer would expect that to go well.
what if its only reading 11.8V
My guess would be that your battery is a little low.
@@CharlesAndCars I did put in a new vvt. 13 miles later and acts like nothing changed. Took it off and screen is clean, oil looks good etc... Maybe I'll swap batteries with another car
@@CharlesAndCars nope that was worse. 11.5V and check light came back on FAST, less than 2 miles lol
Honda K-24 engine sucks, not only Vtec oil pressure switch there’s more crap around this engine 😡 same annoying P2646 , I have tried everything, now I’m going to disassembly the connector and connect the wires directly to the sensor to see if that improves the connection, I replaced the sensor several times, last one “fail” but I did some test with the voltmeter and was good! 🤬I want to sale my daughter’s ELEMENT, but she love it 🙄