You, sir, are a saint. One thing that threw me at first is that there's an adapter to up the size of the hose going from the ported vaccuum line you're running to the charcoal canister. You've actually inspired me to put that back ON after I de-smogged it. I just did the head gasket and the timing chain (and the water pump and alternator and a few other things) and I'm firing it up tomorrow. I had tagged each and every vacuum line with masking tape, and then half my tags fell off and I was in trouble.
I'm glad it helped & that's why I posted this vid in the first place. I've been there before myself; tags going missing during the process & no access to a factory vacuum diagram. Plus there is *very* little info out there about desmogging a stock carb equipped 20R or 22R. "Just get a Weber" is a $400+ plus proposition & not in a lot of people's budgets. I knew there had to be a way to get a desmogged stock carb to work well. I think it's the right call to have the charcoal canister in circuit. It does act as a vent & vapor trap for the gas tank, & I'd rather have it there doing it's job rather than having raw gas fumes from the tank going into the engine compartment from an open tank vent line. Just for clarity as others read these threads. I have the "T" adapter on the ported line for a couple of reasons, all of them learned through my own experience. I originally had the canister hooked up to constant engine vacuum but this presented many problems. Inconsistent idle quality (surging, couldn't establish steady idle speed, etc) & inability to tune the carb for best lean idle. Subjecting the canister to constant engine vacuum was acting like an intermittent vacuum leak. I switched to the ported vacuum & all those issues went away. Solid & consistent idle speed, no surging & able to properly tune the carb idle mixture. The other plus to this is that the canister only gets purged of fuel vapors or the carbs draws a bit of extra air through the canister at engine speeds *only* above idle. On cold starts or completely warmed up, you'll never notice any issues or a difference in performance. I've been running this way for a long time now & have never had any over-lean problems. Sounds like you've done a lot of hard work there; good job.👍Post back once you get it fired up & let me know how it's doing. Any other problems or needed info just ask,
this was actually a very helpful and informative video. for some reason it's really hard to find information on these engines aside from an owner's manual. usually people are just like "yeah. so here's the doohickey and the thingamajigger, turn the doohickey until the thingamajigger opens up and then get your fleeblegorp to adjust the donglebob. but I'm just gonna ignore all that and replace the carb with an edelbrock or a weber" it's like they just assume you know where everything is already. I get that carburetors are a basic design but if you've never worked with one before, getting specific information on a stock unit from the 70s is surprisingly difficult anyway, thanks for making this video. I needed someone to explain it to me like I'm 5 years old because I'm dumb lol
First and most importantly, you are NOT dumb. There is a difference between being truly unintelligent and just not being able to obtain the information. So please do not devalue yourself like that, even jokingly. You're better than that. :^) Your message is the exact reason I went into the detail that I did about the stock setup. If something worked once & worked well, it can work well again. Most Toyota systems are very well engineered, so there is no reason to think they have to be yoinked off & replaced with some non-stock item that was never *specifically* intended for that application. Not to put anyone down, but that tendency to do that is just being a bit lazy in my book. Some people can't be bothered to even try to understand what the original intent was & just slap some solution at a problem that will "work", regardless of how well it will work. They are free to do so if they wish. But I prefer to know how the durn thing is supposed to work as intended. Just my opinion. I'm happy that the info & how I presented it was helpful to you, & thanks for letting me know that. If I can help with anything else just ask. And don't forget to fine tune your carb's ka-nibbler valve & measure all clearances in microns (1 millionth of a meter). Totally kidding here. :^D
You're welcome & I'm glad it was of some help to you. Not all of us out here can just throw money at a problem to solve it & we have to work with what we have. Besides, I'm a pretty firm believer in that using a purpose designed part to work with a particular engine is usually the best way to go, reliability & durability wise. I have nothing against the Weber 32/36, but even people that have them will tell you it can be a bit finicky to tune. Not so much with the stock Aisin carbs. Thanks for the comment & let me know if I can help you out in any way.
Wow incredibly helpful info, I’m planning on getting a Weber myself but I currently have a stock carb that had been “half way desmogged” by the P.O... and this is very helpful
Josh - Glad to be of service, exactly what I intended with making the video. By the way, if you need more info on the de-smog & what's involved there is a very good (but long) write-up of it on Yota tech here: www.yotatech.com/forums/f114/de-smogging-early-22r-205845/ Depending on what year you have there will be some differences. Just thot you'd like a data source to check against what has (or hasn't) already been done in your truck. Drop me a line if I can fill you in on anything that the write-up doesn't.
Your videos have been incredibly informative as I've got 2 20R Coronas. Ever run in to an issue where your dashpot was holding the throttle positioner open when going down the road but not at idle? Trying to troubleshoot that on one of mine.
Yes I've had that happen. Fortunately the Dashpot itself was OK & it just required a fair amount of tinkering with the adjustment screw to get it just right, because I didn't have the manual spec for it, but I do now. Here it is straight from the service manual: "With the throttle released, the clearance between the edge of the primary throttle valve plate and the venturi bore should be: Manual Gearbox - 0.024" or 0.6mm Automatic Transmission - 0.020" or 0.5mm" Please note that this adjustment is done with the carburetor completely removed from the intake. The "throttle valve plate" stated above means the "butterfly plate" at the bottom in the base of the carb, so you can't measure it with the carb installed. Adjusting the Dashpot with the carb installed is less direct & a little tricky but not impossible. Engine has to be up to full operating temp & at normal low idle (Manual 800 RPM, Auto Trans 850 RPM). I start by backing off the adjusting screw until it just loses contact with the throttle arm, then running it back in until it makes the slightest contact with the arm (look for very slight arm movement from this), then backing the screw out an eighth (1/8) of a turn. Then rev the engine a bit, completely let go of the throttle linkage & let the linkage settle back down to idle, while watching the dashpot & listening to the engine. What you want to see & hear is the dashpot adjusting screw contact the arm just before it "bottoms out" at normal idle position & idle engine speed. It's a very small portion of the arm travel & when set correctly. The time element (duration of the "catch & settle") is very short, guessing like a half second or less. You might have to do this repeatedly to get it just right. It takes very small adjustments to the screw once you get it close. Once you do get it set to what appears to be correct, check that your normal low idle speed is correct as stated above. The Idle Adjustment Screw and the Dashpot adjusting screw are inter-related, as both can contact the throttle arm & both effect engine speeds. So you may have to go back & forth between the two screws until you get the right balance of functions. Hope this makes sense. Let me know if you need clarifications or have any other questions.
@@The13thSword THANK YOU for this very detailed response. Spent some time on it today and got it to run properly without having the throttle hold itself open while I was driving. Got a brand new carb recently and looks like the throttle position screw was all the way in, which somehow was causing it to hold it open. Really appreciate the wealth of 20R knowledge you're sharing with everyone
You're welcome & I'm glad it helped. Sometimes at the factory or the rebuilders shop, they don't always set everything correctly, so I've learned that it always pays to go through all the adjustment settings before you install the carb. If anything else comes up that you might need some info or an opinion on just let me know. Thanks for letting me know it helped & for the like & view.
Very big thanks for vacuum hose explanation I have a 1980 with the same set up but the 3 hoses coming off the back side 2 of them are running into a splitter mounted on the Fender weld ..... But here's the issue I'm having is every time I drive it when I shut it off and lets out a loud backfire and I've had the time and done and that didn't help it so I'm wondering if it could be the carburetor adjustments
You are most welcome. Your problem could be carburetor adjustments, but could also be other things. I'd need some more specific info in order to ever try to narrow it down for you. I assume you meant a splitter on the fender "wall" instead of weld(?) If these are larger diameter hoses than the "regular" vacuum line hoses, those are either for the vapor canister, the brake booster, or possibly both. I know of no reason why there should be a "splitter" (I assume you mean a "T" Fitting?). The vacuum sources for the canister & the brake booster should be hooked up to their own dedicated vacuum ports, not shared. By "backfire" do you mean a loud "pop" from the tailpipe? Or do you mean the engine "pops back" through the carburetor? Which one you mean makes a big difference in diagnosis. You say you had the timing done(?) but do you know for sure the timing was set correctly? When I got my truck it was set to "0" & it stayed that way for years, until I found out it should be at "8". You'll need a timing light to check this yourself & it's worth having one. You can get one from Harbor Freight for about $30. Also, just setting the timing correctly may not solve your problem if you have worn timing parts, i.e. stretched timing chain, worn timing gears, damaged/broken/missing chain guide(s), malfunctioning chain tensioner. Unless you know for sure that these parts were replaced with new ones less than about 70,000 miles ago, they could be worn. These worn parts can cause timing issues. A worn out distributor can do this too but it's less likely. You can also diagnose a stretched timing chain with the timing light. Just hook it up, run engine at idle (warmed up) & check the timing marks on the crank pulley. If the mark jumps around (not showing up in one steady place) that usually means a stretched chain. As far as carb adjustments to fix your problem, could be, but you'd have to "baseline" it to find out. Meaning, the carb settings should be put at the stock settings (fully warmed up, idle speed about 800 rpm, fuel mixture screw about 1 & 3/4 turns out from lightly seated). This WON'T work if you're having timing issues as described above; you'd have to get those fixed first. Also if you don't know where these adjustments on the carb are PLEASE look up a diagram of your carb FIRST before you mess with the settings. Trust me on this one. Decent diagram here :automotorpad.com/toyota/249351-toyota-20r-carburetor-diagram.html Also make sure your choke & choke plate isn't stuck in a closed position when the engine is warmed up. This can cause a "rich" condition (too much fuel) which leads to lower MPG, poor performance & sometimes tailpipe backfiring. Dirty old carbs can have stuck parts like that. Spraying down the linkages & outside of the carb w/carb cleaner spray when the engine is cold can solve some of those issues. Just let it soak a while after spraying it down before trying to start it up. That's about all I can give you right now. If you have some more specific info you can give me about your truck I'd be happy to consider it.
@@The13thSword I'll start work on the lines for sure. I tuned the idle down to a nice low hum with no issues yet. Planning to clean the carb and start with factory adjustment and tune from there.
@jimcastillo8950 Toyota calls them Water Bypass Hoses. reference: parts.toyota.com/a/Toyota_1978_Truck-DLX-MT/_51507_6727109/RADIATOR--WATER-OUTLET/671430-1603.html They are no longer sold by Toyota but it appears that Gates still makes them. Try Googling these part numbers as written: Gates 18801 Gates 18805 The 18801 is the driver's side hose & the 18805 is the passenger side hose. They may have to be cut some to fit for correct length. They both appear to be readily available on the market from Amazon, Ebay & likely some local parts stores. If y can't find them online or locally, you could try lengths of new "straight" heater hose of the proper inside diameter to replace them. I've never tried that so I don't know if the straight hose would kink on you or not. That's why the molded type is a better choice if you can get them.
Thank you so much , I have 92 22R enjin, but your explanation is very helpful. Can I ask you how can replace the PCV ? ITs shaken and I can't remove it & i don't know it's work good or not.
The PCV Valve is just pulled out of the rubber grommet it sits in. It can be a very tight fit, so you may need to use pliers to get a good grip on it to pull it out. Disconnect the hose going to it first, and grab the top of the part with the pliers and pull, hard if you have to, it will come out. Also be sure to inspect the grommet to make sure it is in one piece and not dried out or the rubber has turned hard. Since your truck is 29 years old, it would be a very good idea to replace the grommet.
This 2.5”square diaphragm is facing the firewall it has about a 3” shaft out of the center. It connects to a spring loaded lever on the secondary butterfly shaft on the bottom of the throttle body it helps open the secondary butterflies. The diaphragm has come holes in it. The truck is so gutless the secondary doesn’t open. Do you know where I can find one?
This is going to get a little tricky so bear with me. What you are referring to is the Secondary Diaphragm which progressively operates the secondary (main) side of the carb. If that diaphragm has holes in it, it's no wonder the truck seems "gutless", as the main side of the carb is barely or not working at all. It's only running on the Idle side of the carb, regardless of speed or throttle position. When you step on the pedal and the accelerator pump give the engine a shot of gas it speeds up, creating more vacuum. That vacuum is routed to that secondary diaphragm and progressively opens up the secondary butterfly, allowing more fuel/air flow. After doing a LOT of research, That diaphragm is NOT offered for sale as applicable to the Pickup. However, it appears to be offered for the Land Cruiser, and that carb appears to use the very same secondary diaphragm mechanism. My confidence level on this is fairly high, as I did a LOT of cross-referencing on parts. A carb parts listing for a Corona of the same year, which has the 20R engine, shows the diaphragm & gasket in the carb parts diagram, but shows as "unavailable". Checking a Land Cruiser carb parts diagram of the same year shows the exact same parts, same part #'s, and shows as the parts being available. This happens sometimes because the same year Land Cruisers are much more popular than the cars & pickups. This despite the Land Cruiser having a 6 cylinder instead of a 4. They appear to use a lot of the same carb parts & even the same carb itself. The only other things to watch for are that there are two types of the secondary diaphragm out there. One has a straight shaft and another has a small bend at the end of the shaft. They are not interchangeable. So check to see which type you have on the 20R. I found a "bent shaft" type on NAPA & Ebay by searching Toyota land Cruiser Secondary Diaphragm. (NAPA Echlin CRB-24093). However I suspect you have the "straight shaft" type. I am reasonably sure that the parts being offered by Toyota will work on your 20R carb. Reference diagram part #'s 21649 (gasket) & 21698 (diaphragm). Here is the link: parts.lakelandtoyota.com/showAssembly.aspx?ukey_assembly=480320&ukey_product=3927411
Question....I've got a 78 with the 20R. It will not start at all unless I prime it manually with fuel. How can I check the primary accelerator pump for proper function? I don't know much about these carbs. It's identical to yours. Thanks
Qualifying statement first. *IF* the fuel pump is getting fuel to the carb's fuel bowl at the proper volume and pressure, and as long as the carb's accelerator circuit isn't blocked, and if the needle valve isn't stuck shut, and you can verify that there is the proper level of fuel in the fuel bowl... Then all you have to do to verify proper function of the accelerator pump is to look down the carb's throat, operate the linkage by hand & watch for fuel to shoot into the carb's interior body in a steady stream. It would also be wise to look at the top of the accelerator pump shaft that sticks out of the top of the carb cover for movement. I gave you the "qualifying statement" first because in my experience with this setup, fuel issues are usually pump (supply) related or carb related, or both. Sometimes there is no simple single answer, especially on vehicles with this many years on them. Lots of things can go wrong over time and the whole system needs to be checked out back to front to find & fix any & all issues. With that said, if your carb hasn't been rebuilt in a while, it would probably benefit from a tear-down, cleaning & rebuild. There are lots of small parts (like seals) that can wear out over time & use, plus some of the small passages (fuel circuits) can get clogged up with "trash', "gum", dirt, etc. Again, the best thing you can do for yourself is go through the whole fuel system & fix whatever needs fixing along the way. I know it's more work but in the end, I basically had to "touch" every part of mine before I got it to the point where it works & runs well all the time with no issues. If you have more questions & I can provide any other info just ask me. Specific questions are best.
@@JamesDavis-jo9tk Here is a link to a basic diagram: www.flickr.com/photos/amwelto/39081569240/ The accelerator pump plunger moves downwards and forces fuel through a passage and past the pump discharge weight. That weight acts as a check valve and only opens when the plunger is in motion, forcing fuel past it. There is also a check ball (check valve) below the plunger, to prevent the plunger from over-pressurizing the fuel bowl. That pressurized fuel is then discharged into the interior of the carb throat, below the choke plates. That's the entire accelerator pump circuit. Just my own opinion but I wouldn't think that if the accelerator pump seal isn't doing it's job, that really wouldn't have anything to do with the engine only starting by putting fuel down the throat. And then it won't continue to run once the fuel you dumped down the throat is gone, correct? If so I'd say you have one or more of the following problems: 1. Blocked Idle Jet or Idle circuit 2. Nonfunctioning/malfunctioning or disconnected Idle Stop Solenoid (Both of the above would prevent ANY fuel from going thru the Idle circuit, which is needed for the engine to run after starting, even on "cold" high idle with the choke plates closed.) 3. Blocked Main Jet or Mani circuit 4. Float Bowl Needle Valve stuck closed or open 5. Other fuel delivery problem (fuel pump, bad/old gas in tank, blocked or leaky fuel lines, clogged/blocked fuel filter You should also check that the fuel bowl has the correct level of fuel in it. There is a sight glass on the front of the carb; that's where you look for fuel bowl level. Here's a link to what it looks like on the carb (Figure 2-23): www.retrojdm.com/ScanViewPage.asp?ScanID=104&Section=Engine%20Tune-Up&DPI=100&Filename=02-07%20-%20High%20Tension%20Cord,%20Carburetor.jpg In any case, if the accelerator pump plunger seal is not doing the job, it's likely that the whole carb could use a rebuild. Have you pulled any of the spark plugs to see what they look like? if so what color are they? If any of them (especially #1 plug at the front of the engine) has any black soot on them then the carb is rich (too much fuel). I mention this because there is also a vacuum actuated Auxiliary Accelerator Pump Diaphragm that can develop pinholes in it and create a rich condition at all times. If that's the case that #1 plug will be black and the rest look normal (grey to light tan color deposits). Let me know any info on any of this and we'll move forward.
@@The13thSword thank you for this information. Yes, the engine runs fine after it is manually primed the first time. I can drive it all day as long as I don't turn the ignition off. To do so means a manual prime to restsrt. I did check the electrical solenoid and it is functioning as intended. I will now order a parts kit and do a substantial overhaul and cleaning. I did find a alot of debris in the bottom of the fuel bowl upon initial inspection and a few vacuum leaks. The plugs all look normal and perhaps a bit lean.I will pay special attention to that check valve and spring below the plunger that you were telling me about. I do not hear extra fuel spraying inside the throat when I work the throttle.
@@JamesDavis-jo9tk You do not hear extra fuel spraying inside the throat when you work the throttle, but can you *see* any? You also need to look down the throat when you manually work the throttle to see if the plunger is putting out any fuel. I still think that this is a symptom of bad seals in the carb, possibly more than one & it needs a rebuild, so good decision there. Take your time with it. While you're waiting for the rebuild kit I recommend that you check out every rubber fuel line & replace all of them with new line. If you have some of the older style fuel line on there and any of the modern ethanol-laced gas has been run through the system, the insides of those rubber lines could be deteriorated. Non-ethanol rated rubber fuel line can't handle ethanol-laced gas without shedding off small particles of rubber. I know this because it happened to me. Beyond that, you could still have some issues with the fuel system as far as correct supply of pressure & volume. If you have an electric fuel pump in the tank (stock kind) there are a few electrical things that could cause that to happen. Let me know if you get that far & I'll help you out with specific info.
I have a 21R engine . I need to find out how high up on the glass is the fuel level? Is half way between the two metal tabs or level with the lower tab?
Halfway between the two metal tabs is correct. Exactly the same as on a 20R. Any level between the tabs should work OK. I personally prefer to have the level right in the middle. Level with the lower tab can be OK, as long as the engine runs the way it should at idle, no missing, rough running, having to turn the idle mixture screw more than 1 & 3/4 turn out from bottomed, etc. If you need more info on this let me know what specific questions you might have. The fuel level can be adjusted but you need to take off the top of the carb to do it, and there are some measurements you have to do.
Where do the 3 line from the mechanical pump go to just obtained a 79 pickup 20r with mechanical pump had no pump when I got it so I'm not sure where they go
You should have 3 metal lines coming out of the fuel pump. I will describe their orientation or direction, & the lines that go to/from them as if the fuel pump was already mounted to the cylinder head. The line that points downward is the inlet, or fuel supply from the gas tank. The line the points towards the firewall & is parallel to the valve cover is the outlet, the line that goes to the carburetor. The line coming out of the top of the fuel pump is a fuel return line. This line sends fuel back to the gas tank. Notes: Make sure you install the plastic spacer between the fuel pump & the cylinder head or the pump will not work. If the spacer didn't come with your truck or with you new fuel pump, you'll need to get one. You should be able to find one locally at any major brand auto parts store. Two of the most commonly available ones are: FEL-PRO 70577 or BECK/ARNLEY 0392003. Completely clean off any old gasket material on the head. Use the new gaskets that came with the pump, one on either side of the spacer. Do NOT reuse old gaskets or you *will* have an oil leak between the head & the pump mounting flange. Installing a new fuel filter at the time you install the pump is highly recommended. Torque spec for fuel pump mounting bolts is 30 foot/pounds. Be careful not to over-torque these as that could strip the threads out of the head. Any other questions feel free to ask.
Ive got a 1980 Toyota pickup 22r, been having a problem trying to find a good rebuild kit. Im looking for a specific few pieces but cant see them in the kits doing a basic "google" search. its the rubber boots on top of the carb, passenger side, the rod the sticks up vertically that is attached to the linkage with the pivot bolt in the middle. Trying to find those seals for that vertical shaft. Any help????
That would figure. Since the vehicle is older, parts for it don't sell as frequently, so you sometimes have to get creative with your parts searches. I can almost assure you that you probably will not find the carb kits in stock at local parts stores; they special order them in to save on shelf space. Fortunately, Rock Auto is showing 2 complete kits in stock that include the rubber boots for the accelerator pump linkage. Have a look here: www.rockauto.com/en/catalog/toyota,1980,pickup,2.2l+l4,1277120,fuel+&+air,carburetor+repair+kit,5964 Either the Walker or Standard are good quality kits; I prefer Standard because of previous experience with them & that kit has the gaskets in it for both the 20R & the 22R, but it's your choice. There is also an "OEM" kit available at LCE Performance, but costs a lot more and I cannot vouch for it being authentic OEM, as Toyota themselves don't seem to offer a kit anymore. Link in case you want to look: www.lceperformance.com/Carburetor-Rebuild-Kit-22R-Aisin-Carburetor-p/1031001.htm Let me know if I can help in any other way.
I'm new to working on this stuff, but I'm wondering if you ever get weak acceleration or even stalling when you press the accelerator quickly due to the accelerator pump vacuum port being capped. My understanding is that vacuum allows the valving to work to allow more fuel to enter the mix when the accelerator is pressed quickly, thereby avoiding too lean of a mixture. Has this been an issue for you?
No this has not been an issue for me and you do not need to have vacuum to that part for the engine to run perfectly fine. I think we have a bit of a misunderstanding on how this part works. That part is called an Auxiliary Accelerator Pump, or AAP for short. It is NOT the main accelerator pump for the carb, that is a different part entirely. The AAP's only job is to work when the engine is cold and not yet up to full operating temperature, as cold engine usually require more fuel to run well. The AAP's vacuum port was designed to be hooked up to a thermo vacuum switching valve (TVSV). The base of that valve is screwed into a coolant port & senses coolant temp. Below about 180 degrees F the valve is open & allows vacuum to go to the AAP. That vacuum pulls on the diaphragm inside of it & allows a bit more fuel to flow. Once the engine get to full temp, the valve closes & removes the vacuum from the diaphragm. Plugging the port is the same as having the "no vacuum" condition. As long as your choke mechanisms are adjusted correctly and working properly, you don't really need the AAP, even with cold engine conditions. There should also be no real effect in acceleration, cold or hot. I've never experienced a problem with acceleration with it being capped. If you are experiencing weak accel, stumbling when you step on the gas or even stalling when you step on it, you have another issue or issues. If it's doing this cold (anytime before reaching full operating temp) most likely you have a choke problem (sticking choke, broken or disconnected choke linkage, choke out of adjustment). It could also be a partially or totally clogged accel jet or idle circuit, or a clogged transition port (these are small holes in the carb, near the base of the throat at the bottom butterflies). Even fully warmed up it could still be any of those things, or even your idle mixture not being adjusted correctly, as that does regulate how much fuel can pass in that circuit. It could also be vacuum leaks elsewhere on the carb or in the vacuum system. A few other causes could be a sticking throttle linkage or cable, or like on my truck, wear to the throttle linkage rods & pivot points. I've found that wear issues can also cause some really weird & hard to track down idle & run issues. Another thing I found is particles or fuel line rubber clogging up the tiny passages & ports in a carb. If your rubber fuel lines are old and you have been running gas with ethanol in it, the ethanol can deteriorate to insides of the fuel lines, as older style fuel line was never formulated to handle ethanol. This causes very small rubber particles to break free & possibly end up in the carb & block off those things.
@@The13thSword You were 100% on two counts. plugging the brake booster hose allowed me to get the truck to start so that I could drive it uphill to my garage. I replaced the booster (thanks thanks for the recommendation!) the old one was rusted through on the bottom. Brake power was greatly improved, after a bleed it was amazing. It still had to keep a high idle to keep from dying. I sprayed the carburetor with the idea that maybe something was sticking and noticed the engine revving. After closer inspection, there was a split in one of the hoses that lead from the center of the carb. I cut off the split section and reconnected and it runs beautifully now. Praise to the 22R! And thank you for your help!!!
@@jamesmcpherson3924 Glad to hear you found the problems. Good work on the brake booster and finding the vacuum leak. One more recommendation. Do yourself a favor & replace all your vacuum lines with new ones. The split in the one you found shows that the rubber line is old & brittle, and it can split or break again without notice when you are driving. I also recommend that you replace the vacuum lines ONE AT A TIME, so nothing gets mixed up or messed up. If I remember correctly, most of the line is 3mm size (12 feet total), with the rest being 6mm size (4 feet total). O'Reilley's or Auto Zone should have it in stock; you can buy it by the foot. Buy a few extra feet of each size than the lengths listed above to make sure you can cover everything. I assume you got the high idle down since you got rid of the vacuum leak? Interested to hear.
i'm removing the old carburetor & replacing it with a weber 38 & a new intake manifold can i run the coolant hoses together that are in & out of two water choke ports?or what else can i do with them?
Sure you can. It would just serve as a coolant bypass. You could just use a new section of heater hose that fits the ports and loop it. Ss long as it doesn't kink on you it'll be fine. If I were doing it that's what I'd do. I would NOT just cap the ports, because that would affect coolant flow and could cause you to lose some or all of your in-cab heater function.
Did you lose ALL of them? If you even have one of them left, you can match up new bolts from that one at nearly any hardware store. If you don't have one left to match up, in general, the bolts should have a 10mm shaft diameter and a 1.25mm thread pitch. Please note that the bolt head size may be either 12mm or 13mm, depending. Original Japanese bolts (JIS - Japanese Industrial Standard) have the 12mm head, while "regular" Metric bolts will have a 13mm head. In my experience either should work. As for length I can't say, as I don't have one handy to measure. However you could measure the depth of the bolt hole to get a good idea. I also seem to remember that one or two of those are not bolts but studs with a nut. They were used due to space considerations, where it wouldn't be possible to use a bolt or even get it into the hole, in certain spots on the carb. Also, torque spec for those bolts should be 9-10 foot pounds and no more. Over-torqueing the bolts can warp the carb base flange and cause a vacuum leak. Here's a reference chart on the original Japanese bolts & nuts, with specs. I know it says "Corolla" but Toyota used the same hardware on all of their models. www.tcorolla.net/standard_bolt-487.html I hope this helps.
Above the brake booster line I have 2 vacuum lines coming off the carb instead of the 1 like yours has and the choke piece on the top on the other side I also have 2 vacuum lines there compared to your 1. Do you possibly know what those are for and if I need them? It is a 78 celica gt liftback with the 20r
It depends on whether or not you're still running the original stock emissions system & if those parts are still working or not. Most basically, you don't need most of the original vacuum lines for the engine to run well, as long as any unused vac ports on the carb are capped off. Here's a link to a repro vac line diagram for the '78 Celica 20R that might help you figure out what you have & what goes where: toyota4low.com/products/1978-vacuum-diagram-decal-20r As you can see, most of those lines go to emissions control valves, which may or may not be functional, considering the vehicles' age. The only reason I know of for you to still need any of the emissions equipment is if your state law requires it to be present in the vehicle, like for inspection purposes. I'm in Florida where we don't have laws like that so I removed all of the emissions equipment. I'm running the vacuum advance line to the distributor, the vac lines for the choke pull-off & dashpot, & 1 line to the charcoal canister for fuel vapor purging purposes.
I went ahead and did exactly what you have here with my carb and it runs the same as before (not sure if it is a good or bad thing might still have a leak somewhere) the main reason I wanted to do this is the car doesn't match the chart already and was missing some hoses. I messed with the carb screws last night and have the mixture screw out about 3 turns maybe more and was told that means I probably still have a vacuum leak since that should be rather rich running. I really appreciate the video and input!
@@ugellis237 I would agree, that mixture setting is too rich. If all is as it should be, the setting should be 1 & 1/2 to 1 & 3/4 turns out. IF you have the ports on the carb for those missing hoses well plugged, then your vacuum leak is in one or more of the remaining hoses, or in the carb itself. Let me ask you, is the carb original to the car? Has it ever been rebuilt? How many miles are on the car? I ask this because the carb itself can have vacuum leaks in certain places due to use & wear. It could be a broken or missing piece of gasket between the carb body parts, or more likely, worn throttle shaft bushings in the base of the carb. My old carb had this last problem & I was having the same issues that you are. You can test for these things with the engine warmed up & idling, & using a can of carb cleaner. In my case, I shot the carb cleaner at the ends of the throttle shaft & very time I did, the engine ran a bit faster for a second or two. The leak in the bushing was allowing the carb's vacuum engine to draw the cleaner in & burning it like a fuel. Hence the speed up of the engine. Personally if I suspected this to be the case, I'd just get a rebuilt carb from National Carb & send them the old one as a core. Or you can send them your carb & they will rebuild it for you & send it back to you. More info here: nationalcarburetors.com/toyota-cars_c_47.html_4-cylinder-2-barrel-carburetor_1978 During their rebuilds they always replace the throttle shaft bushings, so that there will be no vacuum leak there. Solved my issue & I can now tune the carb perfectly. Plus they use updated internal parts so that the carb can run on today's 10% ethanol gas.
After messing with it some more last night I think I got it even closer running on 1.75-2 turns out. I was told the carb was rebuilt 2 years ago then sat not too long after that until I bought it. I have noticed now that the accelerator pump is leaking. The mechanic here in town said he'd take a look for me next week and check it for vacuum leaks since spraying carb cleaner did not change anything when I tried. Yet again thanks for the advice it's definitly gotten me very close on the setting of the carb and I will probably remove more emissions items in the future and hope it cleans out the engine bay.
I’ve been over this video a couple times to reference my little 1976 Toyota Pickup I believe is an sr5 but the place from where your filming is where all my vaccum lines run to the carburetor from. Wondering if yours is very different or if I don’t need that?
I'm not quite sure what your exact question is? If you could word it more specifically I can give you better answers. In the meantime, if your '76 has the 20R engine, there is a vacuum line diagram available for it on Ebay right now: www.ebay.com/itm/1976-Toyota-Pickup-Truck-Hilux-Vacuum-Diagram-Decal-Repro-20R-2WD-/324079297896 The simple answer is that all those vacuum hoses are there for emissions equipment. Unless your local laws require that the equipment be present, you do not need it for the engine to run well and to run clean. The '78 does have some extra emissions equipment that the '76s & '77s do not have; an emissions computer and some extra vacuum valves & tubing. Mine may look different now because I have removed nearly all of the emissions equipment (desmogged. After 40= years most of it was not working anyway, there are no replacement parts available new, and it was a source of vacuum leaks. Again, if you have specific questions please feel free to send them to me, and I'll do my best to answer them.
I did see part of your second message, but for some reason UA-cam won't let me see the whole thing. I do see you found the same Ebay listing for the vacuum diagram for the '76 tho. The box with the 8 vacuum ports on it marked "V.S.V." in the diagram is a Vacuum Switching Valve. It actually has more than one valve in it to do different things at different times, depending on what vacuum signals it receives from the various components hooked up to it (see diagram). Not all those components send a vacuum signal all the time. From '78 & up, Toyota starting using single VSV's in various places, instead of putting them all in one box like yours. That is one difference, but it still works the same way. Perhaps a simple answer here is that you could disconnect any or all vacuum line(s) going to that box at the lines source on the engine side of it, then cap the vacuum ports on the engine side so you don't have any vacuum leaks. Then retune the carb to best lean idle. I can give you links on how to do a best lean idle adjustment; it's not hard to do. As long as you don't have to pass any "smog inspections" you can do this.
I need a better definition of "secondary vacuum(ed) assembly" to be sure we are talking about the same part. Please describe the part in detail; size, shape, exact location on the carb, etc.
You might want to try searching the Yotatech forums boards for info on that, if you haven't already. www.yotatech.com/forums/f60/ Only other thing I can tell you is keep checking on Ebay. Sometimes the CA smog parts turn up for sale there, if you need them.
Hey buddy I hope you still check this post. I’m stranded in Los vagus in my 1971 dolphin 20R. It’s like it running with the choke on or not getting air
I assume you've taken off the air cleaner & verified that the choke plate is actually closed? Or stuck closed? It the truck running rich? Black smoke from the exhaust? If the choke plate is stuck closed you can try a few things. 1. Spray down the choke linkage with carb cleaner & gently (and I do mean GENTLY) work the linkage by hand to see if it will free up. Sometimes the linkage gets "gummed up" & won't move, or cause the choke to remain in the closed position. 2. Sometimes on the 20R carb, the choke plate can get stuck completely closed in the carbs throat. It can also get stuck completely open, especially if you've hit the gas pedal suddenly & hard. If stuck closed, give the plate a few light pokes on the back side (firewall side) of the plate. This has happened to me once or twice. If stuck open, gently push the top of the plate towards the rear of the truck, & it should pop back into normal position. This has also happened to me before. 3. If the choke thermostat isn't working or moving, or not moving or opening at all even when hot (this is rare) - Carefully disconnect one end of the activating arm from the choke thermostat to the choke plate. I would do this at the plate end personally. You won't have any choke for cold starts but some extra pumps of gas should get it started. And once the engine warms up it should be driveable.
Um hey so yep I am battling hard start I took ignighter off and gm mod nope so I am straight coil to battery with resistor I get it started and I got some hoses confused I thing I set the screws and timing and it's running so rough and surging
@timothycourtney9430 I'm not too sure how to help you on this, as your description lacks a lot of detail, and a few things don't make sense. The HEI nodule would have to be working to turn the coil on & off in order to even have it starting & running rough. The coil wired direct to the battery has nothing to do with that. You also don't want to have constant voltage to the coil, wired like that, as that will make the coil fail a lot sooner. The power for the coil should be switched from the ignition switch. You didn't mention what module brand/part number or coil brand/part number you used; it would help me to know that info. How did you ground the module? Please describe in full. The module ground is critical to making it work correctly.. You didn't mention the state of your carburetor - old, new, rebuilt recently & by who? Describe how you "set the screws" more completely. like which ones, how many turns, etc. If it's not shown in this video about correct vacuum hose routing/positions, I do have it shown in one of my other videos; have a look through my video listings. By "Timing" I assume you mean engine timing. How did you set this? Describe in full. What is your engine timing set to. On the 20R it should be 8 degrees before top dead center on the compression stroke of the #1 piston. If timing is not set correctly it could cause hard start & rough running. Have you adjusted the valves? Have you taken off the valve cover & had a look at the valvetrain for any problems? If you do have a look, also check out the timing chain near the front of the engine. Sometimes if the chain is older with a lot of miles, it could be loose from being stretched, from broken chain guide(s), non-functional chain tensioner. Any of these can also cause hard start or rough running problems. Again, help me to help you by giving as much complete & detailed info as you can.
I have 22r converted from EFI and Im having an issue where the truck ran perfect until one day, after it warms up, will die if I'm not applying throttle. When it first starts it runs perfect but after a few minutes, it will die unless I'm hitting the gas. The first time it happened the truck would only die in high gear when applying throttle, it bogged out and died while I was driving. Now it runs in high gear but dies for example if I'm coming to a stop. But if I can keep throttle up, I can keep it on. Idk what happened to make it do this, but everything was fine with it ran perfect. Now I don't know what to do
It's difficult to tell you where to start without more specific information, and especially on what was a 22RE (Electronic Fuel Injected version) converted to a "22R" (Carbureted version). I also don't know if the engine was "desmogged" or not (emission equipment either removed or blocked off) either completely or to what extent. Or what type and kind of intake & carb you are now running. 22R intake & carb from a similar year model or otherwise? Was the carb new or freshly rebuilt or just plain used when the conversion was done? Are you running a stock Toyota fuel pump or something else? If something else, what brand, part number & how & where is it mounted? What model year is the vehicle? How many miles put on since the conversion? Those are just the initial questions that I have that need *specific* answers before I could even start to point you in a specific targeted direction. It's never easy to diagnose run problem remotely without a ton of solid info, and even then it can be difficult. But if you can completely answer the above questions I will try to help you.
Okay this is going to be a lot. If there's a time we can talk on the phone or video chat I'm down to do that to make this easier on you. And if you can help with this I'd like to pay for it. So here we go. The motor I was told was a remanufactured crate motor when conversion was done. I don't know what the motors year of manufacture or remanufacture, and i have no way to verify that's true or not. The truck was desmogged as far as I can tell, and to make your life harder (I would think) it's a California model. Chassis is 1993. I was told the aisin carb on it was from a 70's model truck and it has an electronic choke. Im going to give you background on how I got the truck because it might be important. It belongs to my boss, and he was tired of paying his mechanic money for parts and labor and he told me that he wants the truck off of his property or he wants me to have it if I'm going to use it, which would over time make the investment worthwhile because I can be more effective having a truck, I normally ride a motorcycle so capabilities are limited. But he said if I can't use it, if it doesn't run or whatever, he wants it out of sight and mind. His mechanic was not happy when he found out the boss basically gave me the truck. All of the vehicles and equipment that the boss has are only, for the most part, operated by one person. That person is the same person who fixes vehicles or equipment that get broken. So the only person who runs everything is the only person who can break anything, and then he gets paid to keep things operational. (Fix what he breaks) Everything is rigged with kill switches too. So basically this guy extorts my boss and has the keys to all of his equipment and is the only one who knows how to use everything because of how he set it up. And my boss can't do anything because he needs him to run it all to get shit done. And who knows if anything will run ever again if he fires this guy. Well when I got the truck, mechanic man told me "when that gauge on there says it's on E, you got 1 or 2 miles before you run out of gas" -_- i would have never predicted that.... What a concept, I'll run out of gas when on E... Anyways, A day or 2 later, he hits the truck with a trailer he was moving with an excavator. Barely left a dent tho surprisingly, and I wouldn't have even noticed if he didn't make a point to tell me it happened and apologize to me. The next day, I ran out of gas. Despite my gauge reading half a tank. Someone brought me a gas can and it drove back to the yard without incident. The next day I filled it with fuel all the way, cleaned the top end of the carb and the float bowl which was filthy. I'm pretty sure that the carb was well used when the conversion took place btw. Definitely not rebuilt. Possible that it was cleaned up. I can't get any more information other than what I have because I think that Mr. Mechanic sabotaged the truck by telling me when the gauge reads E I'll run out of gas (no shit dude) and then overnight did something to make the gauges reading fixed, therefore I would run out of gas and it would have to be parked in the yard so he could do whatever he did to it to keep it from idling. I can't get any information about the conversion because I'd have to askthe mechanic. He may not have done anything to it I'm just entertaining the idea just in case. But regardless, he definitely isn't going to provide me any information about anything else with the truck. This is all the information I have. And I believe the fuel pump is stock. Possibly from the truck the carb was from.
@@calebclark7959 I don't mind handling this through YT messaging but if you prefer you can go via direct email with me. My email address is available on my channel's "about" page. I'd like to keep the discussion here as it could help out other with the same problems but if you'd rather email me directly that's ok. I don't mind trying to help out and I do not require pay for it. I will try to take your provided information in order for clarities sake. With the truck being a 1993 California model and that it's has a remanufactured "crate" engine installed that's carbureted, I'd likely suspect that the engine is a 1985 to 1995 22R base block, as engine cores in that date range are more plentiful. There are no differences in the block for '85 to '95 22R's & 22RE's, only the intake & fuel supply methods are different (carb vs EFI). IF you want to verify that it's an '85 to '95 block check this page: www.lceperformance.com/category-s/23265.htm Look at the picture at the bottom and the circled area. All '85 to '95 blocks will have this shape cast into the block at that location (driver's side above oil pan flange). It being a Cali model doesn't matter if it's been desmogged, it actually makes things simpler. I doubt that the carb is from a 70's model (20R, 1975-1980) as those has a coolant activated choke, not an electric choke. When Toyota came out with the 22R in 1981 they went to the electric choke. Interesting story about your boss & how you got the truck, but it was a good score for you at least. Getting a basically free pickup in any kind of decent shape rarely happens. Onwards... Jumping ahead a bit here. The fact that you can keep the truck running by giving it gas means that your fuel pump is working at least to some degree, so I don't think that's the problem. However, I don't think you have the truck's original fuel pump, as there are big differences between the original EFI fuel pump & the carb-style/type fuel pump. The EFI pump is a in-the-gas-tank location/type & puts out about between 20 to 60PSI in fuel pressure. That much fuel pressure would overwhelm the needle & seat valve in a 22R carb & cause massive fuel flooding. A fuel pump compatible to the 22R carb only puts out about 4 to 6PSI fuel pressure. It is a mechanical type (not electric) driven by an eccentric ring on the camshaft, & is usually mounted on the front passenger side of the cylinder head. If you don't have the mechanical fuel pump on the head, it is possible that mechanic used an earlier electric in-tank fuel pump intended for a 20R. You'll have to look & tell me what you actually have there. Just covering the possibilities here, giving the background you explained to me. For reference, if you have the mechanical fuel pump, it will look like this: www.yotatech.com/forums/f115/help-mechanical-fuel-pump-109852/ Plenty of pics on that post so be sure to scroll down & have a good look. If you don't have the mechanical fuel pump there should be a block-off plate installed, & it will look like this (second picture): www.yotatech.com/forums/f115/help-mechanical-fuel-pump-109852/ In that case, that mechanic guy has done some weirdness & either has that earlier model in-tank electric pump feeding the carb, or some other arrangement (aftermarket and/or electric in-line pump). You said "The next day, I ran out of gas. Despite my gauge reading half a tank. Someone brought me a gas can and it drove back to the yard without incident. The next day I filled it with fuel all the way, cleaned the top end of the carb and the float bowl which was filthy." That combined with some other info you provided that leads me to believe that this truck had been sitting for a while, gives me a fairly good idea of what the problem might be. Running an older vehicle that's been sitting out of gas will often cause this problem. And that is debris, dirt or some other substance has gotten past the fuel strainer (filter) in the gas tank (if it even has one or may have dislodged from the fuel pickup tube), & picked up "trash" from inside the tank. The fact that you said the float bowl was filthy could indicate this. Debris, dirt, rust particles or other "trash" in the fuel system can very easily clog up the idle circuits in the carb. That means the engine won't idle normally because there is little to no fuel coming through the idle circuit, so the engine has to try to run on the main circuit instead. Your having to "stay on the gas" is exactly that, making up for the lack of fuel from the idle circuit. Same issue but related - If this truck has been sitting for some amount of time and has original type rubber fuel lines on it, AND anytime in the last 10 years or so, "modern" Ethanol enhanced gas has been put in the tank, that's a big issue. The Ethanol will do 3 things to older vehicles. 1. Ethanol can & will attract atmospheric water vapor (humidity) & could cause rust inside the tank, which isn't very good for the fuel system. 2. Ethanol can act like a cleaning agent, loosening years or decades old deposits in the tank, fuel line, etc., and then that dissolved "trash" goes to the carb & clogs it up, as described. 3. BIG problem - Old style rubber fuel lines that were not formulated to handle Ethanol-laced fuels will start to break down internally & shed rubber particles into the fuel, again causing the carb idle passages to clog up. Lastly, if the fuel filter located in the engine compartment hasn't been replaced for a while, you should get a new one in there. It should look like this: www.rockauto.com/en/moreinfo.php?pk=5030175&cc=1277782&pt=6200&jsn=1127 Solutions - 1. Completely drain & remove the gas tank so you can thoroughly clean it out & get a new fuel strainer installed. Sidebar - While you have the tank out you might want to consider replacing the fuel sending unit so that the gas gauge is more accurate. You can get workable Chinese-made units on Ebay or Amazon for about $20 + ship, or OEM Toyota ones for about $70-$90. 2. Replace ALL rubber fuel lines with new modern ones designed to handle Ethanol-laced fuels, and replace any hose clamps that need it. 3. Disconnect & remove the Idle Cut-Off Solenoid from the carb. Shoot carb cleaner spray in the hole where the solenoid was to try to clean out the idle passage. This could take several applications It's also very recommended that you hit that hole with some compressed air after using the cleaner. Let it dry for several minutes then reinstall the solenoid & reconnect the plug to it. 4. Check & replace any vacuum hoses that are broken, torn, cracked or stiff with age. Since the engine is desmogged you should only have to worry about the PCV hose, brake vacuum booster hose, and the vacuum advance hose to the distributor. Make sure any unused vacuum ports on the carb are plugged with quality rubber vacuum caps (don't use the cheaper plastic ones, they don't last). There's a pretty good start for you. I highly advise you doo all that is outlined above. I've learned from experience that it never pays to short-cut anything when it comes to older vehicles, especially ones that might have sat for a while. Just take your time & be complete about things. If anything is unclear or you have other questions I'll be monitoring.
It's a lazer block. Like you said. The truck has both fuel pumps on it. The fuel cut off solenoid, is that the one that's on the top of the carb passenger side or is it the one at the rear of the carb? I think the one at the rear is the electric choke right? Also, there is a large diameter line that comes from that electronic component on passenger side that I believe is the cut off solenoid. It is not connected to anything. You may be right about the truck sitting, but the truck ran great for a week. A day before I ran out of gas at half tank, the mechanic told me I would run out of fuel when the gauge says empty. Why would he tell me something so obvious. What would make sense to me is that he told me that because he turned off the fuel sender so that I would inevitably run out of gas, thinking I'm half full remembering he said it will run out right at E. Let me know if I missed any information you needed, I'm going to proceed with your solution procedures and respond with the results once I complete that
@@calebclark7959 The fuel cutoff solenoid is a metal cylindrical shaped part with one or two wires coming out of it, and is located on the carb on the passenger side nearer to the top of the carb and a bit to the rear. Have a look at this picture: nationalcarburetors.com/Toyota-Hi-Lux-204-22R-1983-21892367-CC-AT-22R_p_559.html#mz-expanded-view-1050672389106 Picture view is from the passenger side of the carb, & the fuel cutoff solenoid is directly above the red colored screw (low idle set screw). You are correct, the larger item at the rear of the carb is the electric choke unit. Shown in picture with the red wire running to it. *NOTE: Both the electric choke & the fuel cutoff solenoid are usually wired to the "hot" side of the ignition, so that they operate when the key is in the RUN position. Just wanted to note that here but since the truck was running OK before the "out of gas" issue I wouldn't suspect any wiring issue with those pieces. I'm not too sure what you mean by "there is a large diameter line that comes from that electronic component on passenger side that I believe is the cut off solenoid." The 22R carb fuel cutoff solenoids usually have 2 wires on them but no vacuum lines at all. It's anybody's guess why that guy told you anything but you'd do well to just deal with what is in front of you that you can actually see. I've been doing this kind of thing for a while and have learned that you can rarely take at face value anything a previous owner or mechanic that worked on the vehicle tells you. It's just better to look for yourself & see exactly what's going on & do what needs doing. If he disconnected the fuel sender then the gas gauge would read dead empty. It's more likely that the sender is stuck in the half-full position, but you can verify or dispel this by looking at it when you clean out the gas tank. The sender may be worn out, broken, corroded, the wrong one, who knows? But getting a good look at it will tell you plenty. I look forward to hearing what you find.
Thanks for this video , Awesome, I own a 1977 Toyota Celica I moved this screw (fast idle ) and I didn't know how to reset it, can you help me the car doesn't start now unless I put fuel in the carburettor
I have a few questions about this. Which way did you move the screw" Turned to the left or to the right? When you say you can only start the engine if you put gas in the carb, is the top choke plate open or closed? From you brief description, I'd suspect that it is open. For a "cold" engine, it needs extra gas to start & run until it "warms up" to normal operating temperature. The top choke plate helps that to happen. It restricts air flow into the carburetor, so that the engine gets more gas than air. As the engine "warms up", it needs less gas & more air. The choke mechanism on the carb progressively opens the top choke plate to do that. There is a linkage connected to the top choke plate that operates a cam, that the fast idle screw comes into contact with. To do a basic setting on the fast idle screw: 1. With the engine "cold". Remove the air cleaner. Locate the fast idle screw & turn it to the left until you see very little or none of it's threads on the inside of the lever that it is threaded into. DO NOT COMPLETELY REMOVE THE SCREW. You want it to remain threaded into it's lever. 2. At the rear of the carb, operate the throttle lever, moving it at least 1 inch of travel. This should make your top choke plate close completely. If the top choke plate does not close on it's own you have a choke issue that has to be solved first. 3. With the top choke plate closed, look at the fast idle cam. It should have two (steps) on it. The second "step" should be in line with the fast idle screw. 4. Turn the fast idle screw in (to the right) until the screw just barely touches the second "step" on the fast idle cam. This is how mine is, stock 20R carb. It is possible that you might have a later model 20R carb or a 22R carb on it, and the mechanism might be different. The fast idle screw might adjust an "arm" that contacts the "steps" of the choke cam. But the setting works the same way. On those you just need to turn the screw in until the "arm" just touches the second "step" on the cam.
@@The13thSword Thank you for the quick response, and thank you for the great information, I need some time to implement the steps because I do not have experience, and need to the cold weather (the temperature in the day is 50 degrees and the humidity at night is 85%) . I will inform you of the results Which way did you move the screw ? I didn't do it myself it's the mechanic in the garage
@@tarout5 You are welcome. Just to be clear, you do not need the cold weather to do this. When I said "cold engine" I mean that the engine has completely cooled off from it's last run time. This usually takes an hour or more in most cases. If the engine has not been run for at least an hour you should be able to do the procedure with no problems. Air temperature of 50F (10C) to do the procedure is OK. Even if the weather/air temperature is 100F (37C) that's OK. Most gasoline engines run at 180F to 190F (83C to 88C) at full operating temperature. The choke is designed to be fully closed even at 100F, & full opened at 180F to 190F. Air humidity is not a factor. Do not be worried about your lack of experience. Just follow the steps carefully. Take you time with it, I'm sure you can at least get things to a point where you can start the engine without having to pour gas in the carb. Once you can do that, you can "tune" the carb to get a proper fast idle speed & low idle speed. Sorry to hear the shop mechanics did this. :^( Most mechanics today know nothing about carburetors or how they work; they are all used to fuel injection instead.
Hey love the carb vids I’ve learnt a lot from them but I’m having a small issue with my carb on my 75 pickup it was running fine till I drive it full speed about 70mph now it won’t stay idled when hot .. I also notice that the throttle adjustment screw , screws up against a lever , when the engine it hot that lever pulls back and the throttle adjustment screw has nothing to rest on .... if you have a email address I can send a video of me going over my carb and you can see exactly what’s going on .. there is some smog equipment removed from my setup ... any help would be much appreciated thanks !
Two things here right off to top. One is, I don't know what condition your carb is in (been on there forever & maybe a bit dirty, recently cleaned in place on the engine (if so how?), pulled off & rebuilt (rebuilt by who?), etc) so it's really hard to nail down what it could be. If you can give me more specifics that would help. Second thing is that if some of the smog equipment has been removed, a lot of that stuff is/was vacuum operated from manifold vacuum. If the ports that stuff was hooked up to weren't capped off or badly capped, you might have a vacuum leak. Even if they were capped off but the caps are old, that "full speed" blast you took might have knocked one of them loose or off. Vacuum leaks affect idle a lot more than above idle speeds. As for Throttle Adjustment Screws, there are actually three on this carb. From your description I think you are looking at the Fast Idle Adjustment Screw. If this screw is towards the back of the carb, and the head of it is pointed on an angle downward, that's the one. The "Regular" Idel Adjustment Screw is on the passenger side of the carb, a bit towards the back, and the screw itself is orientated parallel to the ground. Just to make this more clear, here is a link to a diagram of the carb, with the different screws labeled. Scroll down to the 6th posting and you'll see it: www.yotatech.com/forums/f114/1978-20r-high-idle-dieseling-timing-298874/ By the way, if you do have a vacuum leaks or a blocked idle passage inside the carb, turning the "regular" idle screw may not make any difference. If somehow the screw "backed out" on you so that the idle was adjusted too low, it might work. If that is what seemed to have happened, get the idle adjusted where you want it, then put a drop of Loc-Tite Blue (NOT RED!*) Thread Locker on the threads. Once it dries it will keep the screw from moving again on it's own. The Blue stuff is semi-permanent and you can break the screw loose later if you have to. You could always post your video on UA-cam. More videos on YT about these old trucks helps everybody.
Thanks man I’m going to check out some of the vacuum caps and and go over the carb some more tomorrow and see what I can figure out ..thanks for the advice ! I’m going to post a video of it on my channel and I’ll let you know
I just rebuilt this carburetor. I am a novice with this. But hey it wasn't working to begin with. Put it all back together and what do you know it runs!... sorta. The at the top which allows more air in is just hanging loss. What did i do wrong with the linkage?!?!
It would help to know the exact year of the vehicle and what the engine model is (20R, 22R, etc.) so I can give you more specific info. You said "The at the top which allows more air in is just hanging loss (loose?)" I'm going to assume that you mean the plate at the top of the carb that pivots. This would be the choke plate. It has it's own linkage on the carb and it's operating correctly is very important to how the engine runs before it reaches full temperature, and even after it reaches full temp. There is a linkage that moves that plate, and it should be a part of a thermostat system mounted to the carb. This can be controlled either by coolant (20R) or electrically (22R). How it works - Cold engines need a richer fuel/air mixture to run right (more fuel, less air), but a leaner mixture (less fuel, more air) once up to operating temp. The choke controls this and should be almost or completely closed on a cold engine. This restricts airflow into the carb, providing a richer mixture. As the engine warms up, the thermostat on the carb moves the linkage & progressively opens the choke plate, allowing in more air, leaning out the mixture. It should fully open at the same time the engine reaches full operating temperature, IF it's adjusted correctly. First make sure you didn't disconnect the linkage on the carb for the choke plate. If it's disconnected, reconnect it. If you got a diagram with your carb rebuild kit you should be able to find it. As long as you did not change the setting on the thermostat, it should be close to the setting you need. The choke plate should then be in the closed position. Once the engine is started and if everything else is working, the plate will open slightly. The plate will then slowly open as the engine warms up. Did you read & follow the instructions that came with your carb rebuild kit? There is some important info in there about the mixture setting. That has to be close to where it needs to be for the carb to work right as well. Check your diagram. The mixture screw should be on an angle on the passenger side of the carb. A good baseline setting for it is - turn to the right until it wants to stop (do NOT crank down on the screw, you WILL damage it*) then back it out 1 & 1/2 turns. A "turn" is a full rotation of the screw head (360 degrees). * The mixture screw is usually made of brass, so if you crank it down tight, you can deform the tip of it and this will mess up your ability to properly set the mixture. When I work on one of these carbs, I always take the screw completely out to inspect to tip for deformation, to make sure someone before me didn't do this. Let me know exactly what you're working with if you need any other info or tips. I've been through almost everything to do with the 20R carbs.
I just acquired a 78 Bandit something like a Chinook. No power to fuel pump so I hooked a fuel jug to the carb via gravity, and it lit right off wide open. Is it the carb or the fuel delivery? It had been sitting for years. I hope you see this as you are the GURU!! The linkage seems o.k.
Hard to say without actually seeing it in person, but carb'ed vehicles that sit for a while tend to have some issues. Personally I would (might) suspect the carb. It could be that the float is stuck open, allowing a full flow of fuel to go through the carb, giving you the "wide open" effect. You may or may not be able to free up the float without taking the carb apart & rebuilding it. Sometimes just getting fresh gas into the fuel bowl will "melt" any varnish or gum in there that is causing this. Keep in mind that it could also be some other problem or combo of problems, like a clogged needle valve (this is the valve that regulates fuel level in the bowl & works with the float). If it's clogged, your temporary gravity feed system may be overfilling the fuel bowl & causing the condition. Also, depending on how you have your Gravity Feed System set up, it could just be feeding too much fuel into the carb, overwhelming the shutoff valve (unable to meter fuel, kinda like dumping gas down the carb throat while it's running, it will speed up). The carb itself may NOT be the prob at all. The Idle Circuit could be clogged & the fuel is going straight through the Main Jet Circuit (too much fuel to run @ idle speed, so again, wide open effect). Could also be a non-functional idle shut off solenoid (normal function - prevents engine from continuing to run when you turn the key off). If it's stuck in the "Off" position the idle circuit will not work right It could be stuck closed from gum & varnish. It's the difference of vacuum from the engine vs atmospheric pressure that draws fuel through the passages of a carb, which are designed to "meter" the fuel flow. If 1 or more of these passages or components (like those mentioned above) are clogged the carb will not work correctly. Now you also see why I say it's tough to know without actually seeing it. Short of a complete tear-down & rebuild of the carb, or changing it out for a freshly rebuilt one, there are a few things you can try, if you have the time to "monkey around" with it. This will look worse than it actually is, due to me trying to be complete in instructions, if you want to try them. 2 ways: 1. Clean carb on the engine. This takes several cans of Carb Cleaner (cheap stuff from parts store works OK for this) & a source of compressed air (air compressor best, canned air too expensive to use). Remove air cleaner, remove 2 large bolts from front of carb, below fuel level sight glass window, remove idle cutoff solenoid (passenger side of carb, has 1 wire going to it, disconnect this). Don't lose any parts! Spary carb cleaner into both brass vent tubes in carb throat; these go direct to the fuel bowl) to "wash out" any sediment or "junk" in the fuel bowl. Spray into port where idle cutoff solenoid goes. Look/listen for cleaner to come out of a port low in the carb throat, confirming it's open. Spray thru the 2 holes where you took the large bolts out. The Idle & Main Jets are inline with these holes. Use the "straw" that came with the Carb Cleaner spray can to reach the Jets. All this should take at least 1 can. Let it sit after you are done spraying for 10-15 minutes, then use the compressed air to blow into all the places you sprayed. Re-install all parts you removed & test. 2. Clean carb off the engine. This requires carb cleaner in a "paint can" (recommended - Gunk Carburetor & Parts Cleaner with Drip Basket, 3 quart size). Remove all previous parts described above. Mark & diagram all vac hoses (important!) so you can put them back where they belong. Disconnect vac hoses, disconnect linkage (one clip on underneath side), unbolt carb from intake & remove carb. Clean off any major dirt or junk from outside of carb with a brush or cloth. Now you can "dunk & soak" the whole carb in the can of cleaner, overnight recommended. This will "melt" or loosen up any varnish or gum deposits, even inside the carb passages. After soak drain the carb of cleaner & hit with the compressed air, esp at any inside passage access point (jets, solenoid port, vac ports, etc.) Reinstall everything (make sure you get ALL of the vac lines back where they belong or the carb will not work right!) & test. I showed you all this so you have options. If neither of these methods works & the engine won't run right, the carb will need rebuilding or replacing. I personally wouldn't go beyond method #1 above (carb cleaner spray cans) because due to age or use the carb could very easily be worn out & in need of rebuild. Some old carb problems can't be fixed by cleaning. Also, I've leraned from experience that it's just easier & less of a pain to just put a rebuilt carb on & go from there. Rebuilding it yourself using a kit is only for advanced skill people; I leave it to experts. I have a source for rebuilt carbs for the 20R (at a reasonable price too), let me know if you need it. As far as no power to the fuel pump that is another topic. How do you know there is no power to it? Checked with a volt meter? Don't hear it running? Other? Did you check your fuses? Let me know. Could be several things.
@@The13thSword WOW! thanks for getting back so quick! That's some GREAT information, I will try to get it going myself, it seems to be a good little engine, wide open, its a BOSS! It only ran for a second blew a mouse nest plum across the yard! Anyway,thanks again
@@wesfrazier5739 You are most welcome. The 20R engine is a very well made engine & a good runner. I doubt you'll have much trouble with it. Just clean that carb as best you can & see what you have. If you need anymore info or help I will be here. I would have some suggestions & advice on what's next after you get it to run. Good luck.
hey I don't know If this will help but I have a 76 chinook and the fuel pump that came on it turned out to be too far from the gas tank, it was sitting up with the engine. Installed a new one about half way between the two and wired it with a switch in the cab I turn on manually. I haven't had a problem with it since.
im having some issues. not sure about vacuum diagram and the hoses being correct. its a 79 pickup with a 21ru in it. not sure if its the stock 20r carb or the 21ru carb. but my issue is it cold starts fine and runs fine untill it warms up. then it spits and sputters under any more than half throttle. the fuel tank and pump were rusted out and i replaced it with a fuel cell and external pump. the plugs were pretty bad so i put some BKR7 plugs in it just to get it fired up. it seems like when the choke opens it runs bad and if i push it closed it runs best. i would imagine its full of gunk/dirt and rust. what are stock spark plugs a 5? and how do i get the choke to not cause it to run like S#|t when it warms up?
From what I know, the 20R & 21RU carbs are very similar. From the description of your run problem, I would say that you are running lean. The specific info about the choke positions is key here. Warmed up with choke open it runs bad, warmed up with choke closed it runs better. The choke is simply blocking off some airflow which makes the air/fuel mixture richer. Since it runs better when warm with the choke closed, we can assume that the carb isn't providing enough fuel for those conditions (lean). It's probably not the chokes fault here. Most likely you have dirt, rust particles or other debris in your idle circuit in the carb. The rusted fuel tank & pump are a good clue here. The idle circuit in a carb usually has VERY small passages, than can easily get clogged up with particles. That would account for the lean condition when warm. Even when not at idle, the idle circuit still flows some fuel so if it gets clogged, you are basically just running on the main fuel circuit in the carb, which can't provide enough fuel on it's own for the engine to run right. What to do? Ideally you want to remove the carb and do or have done a full cleaning and rebuild. If you can't do that or can't afford that, there are a few things you can try that sometimes work. First thing is to try and clean out the idle circuit. This can be done with the carb in place, but you'll have to remove several pieces to access the idle circuit. See Figure 29 on this page for a diagram' it's for the 20R carb but yours should be very similar: www.autozone.com/repairguides/Toyota-Pick-ups-Land-Cruiser-4Runner-1970-1988/CARBURETED-FUEL-SYSTEM/Carburetor/_/P-0900c1528004d6c2 You need to remove the fuel cut-off solenoid on the passenger side of the carb, the 2 nuts in the fuel bowl on the front of the carb below the sight-glass, and the idle mixture screw*. *CAUTION - Idle MIxture Screw - before removing the screw, turn it to the right and count how many full revolutions it turns, until it just stops (do NOT force it). It should be 1&1/2 to 1&3/4 turns. Thatis how it should be set when you put the screw back in after cleaning. With all these parts removed, you will have access to the fuel bowl & idle circuit. Get a couple of can of carb cleaner with the "spray straw". Shoot carb cleaner into the solenoid port, idle mixture screw port, and the idle & main jets. The jets are located in the fuel bowl; you can directly access them through the holes where the bowl nuts were, just look in there, you'll see them. Also spray some cleaner around in the bowl & look for any junk that washes out. You can also spray down the angled brass tube in the carb throat; this is a vent tube to the fuel bowl. Use AT LEAST 1 can of cleaner on all of this. After the cleaner, the best thing to do is get an air hose & shoot some compressed air into even open port & hole. This helps "blow out" any junk that's in the idle circuit. It also helps dry up any leftover cleaner. Re-install all the parts you removed. Remember to set the idle set screw as described; turn in to right until it just stops, then turn out 1&1/2 to 1&3.4 turns. If you unplugged the solenoid plug it back in. Start it up, warm it up, and see if it made a difference. If you get it warmed up & the choke is open and it's running better, then you know the idle circuit was clogged. If it doesn't make any difference, the carb will have to be deep-cleaner & rebuilt. More info coming, separate reply.
The 21RU was a Japanese only motor installed in several models from 1978 to 1987. Info here: en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Toyota_R_engine#21R It was also used as a replacement engine for some US Toyotas that originally had the 20R. You didn't say where you are, but the 21RU is NOT a common engine to find here in the US. I do not know if the NGK BKR7 plugs are correct or not. The info I could find was NGK BPR5EY or Denso W16EXR-U. Source: jp-carparts.com/toyota/partlist.php?maker=toyota&type=312140&cartype=1&fig=1901 Do you have an inline fuel filter or no? If not you should. If you do, you should change that out too. Have you changed out the fuel lines? Are you running gasoline with Ethanol in it? Ethanol is very hard on the old rubber fuel lines, and actually makes them shed rubber particles inside the line. These particles can clog your carb. I highly recommend replacing the rubber fuel lines with ones that are made to handle Ethanol fuels. Last thing. This sounds like a "rescue project". Keep in mind that with old vehicles, you really have to go through EVERYTHING on them, because they may have been sitting for years unused, or just not maintained that well. Do everything from the ground up, system by system. It's worth doing on these old Toyotas.
@@The13thSword Thank you, i was wondering about those two under the sight glass good to know. i honestly could not even tell that was a sight glass at first was so dirty, pulled off and cleaned. rust fluid came out. pulled the idle circuit and some rusty sludge. i am in washington state, it only sat since 2016 the 79. if i could get a wide or narrow band O2 sensor on it to dial in the carb that would be great! this is a great section all the detailed replies.
@@TheLHROCKS No problem. Yep, rusty sludge could easily be what's clogging up the idle circuit. Be especially sure to thoroughly wash out the fuel bowl to get any heavy rust particles out of there, or it's just going to clog up again. If it were me I'd use as much carb cleaner as needed in every port until no more rust colored liquid came out, then blast with compressed air & do it one more time with the cleaner for good measure. You don't need an O2 meter to get the carb dialed in well. All carbs work pretty much the same way so you can use the "best lean idle" procedure. It's pretty straight-forward. Here are someinstructions for a Weber carb but the same procedure will apply to your carb. It's in the middle of this page: www.cjclub.co.il/files/Weber3236adjust.pdf by the way this procedure should be done with the engine fully warmed up & the choke fully open. Once you get the idle mixture set at it's best point, adjust the idle speed to 800-850 RPM. If you don't have a tachometer just set it fast enough so there is no "chugging" & runs smooth. I also found some other specs online for your engine that may help for tune ups & valve adjustments: members.iinet.net.au/~stepho/eng20r.htm Let me know when you get it going or if you need anything else.
Yes it should be the same carb. To the best of my knowledge, the carbs for the 20R were the same from 1975 to 1980, with the "water choke" on them (choke operated by engine coolant). There would also be no difference in carbs for any '75 to '80 20R equipped Toyota, like the Celica & Corona.
@@The13thSword I have the same problem with the carburetor of my toyota pick up 79 that has many hoses and I do not understand where they go and I see that yours does not have many.
@@josevicky779 As mentioned in my video, I have "desmogged" the truck. This involves removal of some of the emissions devices and some the relevant hoses. The 20R engine & carb do not these all these things to run well and still be fairly clean burning. Whether you can do this or not will depend on your local states emission & inspection laws. I am in Florida where we do not have any vehicle or emissions inspections so it was possible to do. Basically and in specific, I have found that these carbs only need vacuum lines for the vacuum advance for the distributor, the choke pulloff, and possibly the AAP (Auxillary Accelerator Pump diaphragm) plus a few more optional ones listed below. All other vacuum ports on the carb can be plugged or capped off to prevent any vacuum leaks. I have my AAP plugged. The only other hoses I have on it are vacuum for the power brake booster, one hose from the bowl vent to the charcoal canister (to trap any evaporated fuel from the bowl), one vacuum line from the canister back to the carb (to draw in any fuel vapor to be burned in the engine on start-up) and the PCV Vent Hose. It can be even simpler if you go with a Weber carb instead (Weber 32/36 DGEV), which is a very common, long standing thing that owners of these trucks have done. You would only need the vac advance for the distributor, and whatever accessory hoses you need like the brake booster line. Genuine ones aren't exactly cheap (about $320 new) & also require a fuel pressure regulator and a power wire for the electric choke. Being able to do this would also still depend on your local inspection & emission laws. More info/basic install instruction video on the Weber 32/36 is here: ua-cam.com/video/Lf_zaw4QOm8/v-deo.html If you have any other specific questions let me know & I'll try to help you out.
The Main & Secondary Jets can usually (note; USUALLY) be unclooged/cleaned without removing the carb from the vehicle. There are 2 large bolts on the front of the carb that, if removed, provide access to those jets. If the clog is very hard or compacted though, it may be difficult to unclog the jets with just carb cleaner spray directed at them through the access holes . It might be best to remove 1 bolt, drain the fuel bowl, reinstall the bolt, then spray carb cleaner into the fuel bowl via the vent ports in the carb throat. These are 2 brass tubes you see in the carb from the top when you remove the air cleaner. Let it soak awhile (hours) & refill if necessary. Then try to clean jets as outlined above. Usually works. There are some other jets & passages (slow jet, air correction jet, idle fuel passages, transfer ports & passages) internal to the carb that, if clogged, you may or may not be able to unclog without taking the carb apart, or at least taking it off the vehicle & soaking the whole thing on carb cleaner. It can sometimes be done w/o removing the carb, just depends on how clogged up it is. I can give you details about this if you want.
Hiya T, long time. All self taught out of necessity. The web has been a big help on most things (generally), but had to learn much of the stuff about my specific truck the hard way, trial & error. Not alot on the web for mine ("75 to '78), & too poor to buy the factory manual. Miss seein ya out there on the streams, hope all is well with you. Thanks for having a look.
Hard to say without being there to actually look at it. I assume you mean it's even fully open with the engine dead cold? Try getting a can of carb cleaner and completely cleaning the outside of the card, especially all the parts of the choke linkage & plate. Then inspect the entire choke linkage to make sure it's connected up. If all the parts are connected as they should be, lubricate every pivot point on the linkage with some light oil, like 3-in-1 oil or ATF (Automatic Transmission Fluid). Don't forget to oil the pivots of the choke plate itself. Oiling the carbs linkages & pivot points should be done on a regular basis, about every 5000 miles or so.
@@The13thSword this is with engine cold or hot ,running or not,I feel like the choke should have some resistance,but it feels lose,or either the choke need to be adjusted like you mentioned in this video,my have the 2 hoses like yours,so it works by water heat as you mentioned,I did the carburetor cleaning but I didn’t oil anything,so that’s my next step,THANK YOU ALOT FOR RESPONDING SO QUICK.
@@martinlandaverde403 No problem, just want to help out if possible. Hopefully getting some light oil on the moving parts of the choke linkage will help. I was also having trouble with my choke plate, getting stuck om the fully open position. This was happening when trying to start cold, giving one full "pump" to the gas pedal then cranking. Once I oiled the pivot points for the choke plate shaft, the problem stopped happening. I guess the shaft was getting stuck in the holes it pivots in. In any case, it fixed my issue. Let me know how yours turns out.
I’m not sure if you still read these, but I have an original carburetor on my 1978 pick up. My choke had been stuck for many years and I finally fixed it However now I am getting a strong smell of fuel in my oil and I’m not sure if that’s a mixture issue and or something else. Any idea?
I absolutely read every comment/question people send me, no problem. :^) I kind of doubt it's a mixture issue (i.e., your mixture setting screw being out of adjustment), plus that screw really only adjusts the idle mixture. But if you want to verify or eliminate that possibility, you can "baseline" it. It's the screw that is on an angle, center of carb, near the base of the carb. Get a flat-blade screwdriver that fits the slot well. Turn the screw to the right slowly until it just wants to stop turning (lightly seated). You do NOT want to crank down on this screw as that will damage it and you'll never get a good idle. Count how many turns it goes until it lightly seats. If it is more or less than 1 & 3/4 turns, it was out of adjustment. Then turn the screw back out 1 & 3/4 turns. That is the baseline idle mixture adjustment for that carb. By the way, a "turn" is a full 360 degree rotation of the screw. If that adjustment doesn't solve the fuel smell in the oil issue it's something else. Other things that could cause that issue. The float could be out of adjustment (set too high). This will noit allow the needle valve to shut off fuel flow when it should. This causes there to be too much gas in the bowl, which can cause flooding. It is also possible that there is some debris or "trash" in the float bowl, that is keeping the needle from totally seating. The needle valve controls when gas can enter the fuel bowl and if it cannot seat & cut off the fuel flow, the carb will flood. Check the sight glass on the front of the carb; you may have to clean it off to see it well enough. The fuel level, if correct, should be between the two "tabs". If it is above the top "tab" that's too much fuel and it may be flooding. Specific to the 20R carb - Possible ruptured Axillary Accelerator Pump Diaphragm (AAP). This problem could allow extra gas to constantly go to your #1 cylinder. Two ways to check for this problem. The AAP is located on the passenger side of the carb near the front, and has a sort of triangular cover with three screws holding it to the carb, plus a vacuum line going iinto it. Pull the vacuum line off the port and see if there is any liquid gas in it. If there is, the diaphragm is ruptured. You can also remove the #1 cylinder spark plug (engine cold, cylinder nearest the front of the engine). If the electrode is black (fuel fouled) it could be a sign of a ruptured diaphragm. Easy fix for this is to remove the vacuum line from the port & cap off the port. Questions. How long have you had the vehicle? Has the carb ever been rebuilt? There are other wear problems that the carb might have if it's original. How is your engine timing? The spec is 8 degrees BTDC. Are you running the stock in-tank fuel pump or something else? If an aftermarket fuel pump, what brand & part number? Some aftermarket electric fuel pumps might have too high a fuel pressure, which can overcome your needle valve and cause flooding. Is your air filter clean? A clogged up air filter can cause the carb to run rich (too much fuel). Let me know.
@@The13thSword I’ll look into all the suggestions you have given and then give you a detailed reply but to your other questions. The truck belonged to my father and he bought it new in 78’ I fully restored it and had it repainted about 5 years ago. He wasn’t the greatest at long-term maintenance. But the carb is original stock. Never been rebuilt. I just recently discovered the choke plate was literally glued open from years of carbon deposit. I really should remove the entire carb and clean it but I’m just not confident to do that/fear i won’t get it back running like it does now. It purrs like a kitten and has great compression for its age but the spark plugs definitely getting too much fuel because they are almost black on the tips. I replaced them yesterday once I discovered the strong gasoline smell in my oil. I did discover tonight the choke diaphragm hose (think that’s what it’s called?) was not connected to anything so I re-hooked it up but I’m not sure if that’ll fix anything. One thing I have noticed though is that when I adjust my idle screw it doesn’t seem to make much of a difference. Since I fixed my choke plate I’ve had a hard time getting that high idle speed right. I apologize for throwing so much at you, I’ve got the original engine repair manual and another similar third party one but neither of them address my issues. I’ve removed the pulley for the smog system but left most of the hoses still attached since I don’t have a clue what’s critical and what’s not. Your video has helped me get an idea but I’ve still got hoses everywhere. In regards to fuel tank, it’s original and I have the same issue you has about the gauge not working once the tank is about 3/4 full. I’ll fix it one day but it’s not priority Sorry for the long reply.
@@ToyotaRN No problem and thanks for the detailed info. If the carb has never been rebuilt in it's whole life, I would suspect that is where your problem lies. It's 42 years old after all, and things can wear out, gaskets dry up, etc. Plus the fact that your choke plate was "glued open" by carbon & that you can't properly adjust the low or fast idle speeds, those aren't great signs of overall carb health. The vac hose you mentioned sounds like the choke pull-off. With the engine below full operating temp, the pull-off keeps the choke from closing too much when the vacuum drops down (engine speeds above idle). If it is inoperable, it too could contribute to a rich condition (too much fuel for conditions). The choke itself, when the engine is cold, blocks off all or most of the top opening (throat) of the carb. This make the air/fuel mixture richer, which cold engines need to run correctly. Once the engine starts to warm up, the "water choke", a thermostat at the back of the carb, slowly opens the choke as temp rises, until it is fully open at full engine operating temp. If you look at that thermostat on the back of the carb, you should see some line markings on it, plus a single line marking on the carb side. It should be set right in the middle. if not, it's been monkeyed with by someone and is out of adjustment. You said "I have noticed though is that when I adjust my idle screw it doesn’t seem to make much of a difference." This is interesting, IF you mean the mixture screw and not the actual low idle screw. It's important to know which is which here. Here is a link to a diagram that identifies all three screws (mixture, low idle, fast idle): www.autozone.com/diy/repair-guides/toyota-cressida-corona-crown-markii-1970-1982-repair-guide-carbureted-vehicles-repair-guide-p-0900c152800870d9 If you actually meant the mixture screw, that would indicate that your idle circuit is probably blocked, and the engine is trying to idle off the Main fuel circuit instead. That would certainly make it run rich. Given the carbon problem you mentioned, this could be very likely. Also as I said before, there could be "trash" in the fuel bowl, some of which is blocking off your idle jet. That's more likely to happen, as the idle jet opening is much smaller than the main jet opening, so it gets blocked easier by junk in the fuel. Have you changed your fuel filter lately? What I would do if it were mine. Go get 2 cans of cheap carb spray cleaner. Take off the air cleaner, put paper towels around the base of the carb, and use 1 complete can to clean off the outside of the carb, and also spray down the throat. Let it sir for several hours to let all the spray cleaner evaporate. 2nd can of cleaner - Unplug & remove the Fuel Cutoff Solenoid from the carb. This is a cylinder shaped part on the passenger side of the carb with one wire going to it. Remove the Idle Mixture Screw completely. Doing this gives you access to the internal passages of the Idle Circuit. Remove the two bolts/plugs at the front bottom of the carb. This gives you access to the fuel bowl and the idle & main jets. You can then "wash out" the fuel bowl with the spray cleaner, and also shoot some cleaner down the small brass tubes in the carb's throat. Those are bowl vent tubes and go straight to the bowl. Then use the "straw" that came with the carb spray cleaner. The idle & main jets are straight back in the carb from where the bolts were. You can shoot cleaner right into them to clean the jet openings. Still using the "straw", shoot some cleaner into the fuel cutoff port and the hole where the mixture screw was. Fill up that idle circuit until it's full. Let sit 5 minutes, then blow out with compressed air in short blasts. If you don't have compressed air, just keep repeating the cycle of shooting more cleaner in there. Use up the whole can if you have to. When you're out of cleaner, let the carb sit for an hour or so, then re-install the bolts, mixture screw & cutoff solenoid. I have never failed to unblock an idle circuit doing this. It looks complex in print, but it's actually not hard to do. Second option is to buy a gallon can of carb cleaner, remove the whole carb and soak it overnight in the cleaner. Only problems with this is you really have to diagram out the vac hoses to get them back in the right places. And it may not remove all the "junk" from the inside. Also, the above 2 options will not fix any worn or broken parts. For that even a rebuild won't get it done, but there is this: nationalcarburetors.com/Toyota-Hi-Lux-20R-22R-1978-21892367-CC_p_520.html The throttle shaft bushing on my original carb were worn out & causing a big vac leak. National supplies rebuilt carbs with brand new hard parts like that, plus new solenoid, diaphragms, etc. Great value if you need to go that way. I wouldn't worry too much about the smog system; it's probably not working anyway. Just make sure you don't have any vacuum leaks to any of it's vacuum operated components. Either new vac hose, or cap off ports to them with some quality silicone vac caps. You have a broken resistance wire in your fuel sender. I have info/fixes for that too, just let me know when you need to know.
@@The13thSword so I got the courage and cleaned and rebuilt the carb completely. I’m now trying to determine what vacuum lines are actually needed vs what was apart of the original smog system (now decommissioned) I was trying to understand why you capped the Vacuum Port for Hot Idle? Does it not work separately from the original smog system? In addition, if I send you pictures or make a video can you tell me which ports I can cap? I’m using this video as a guide but I know there are still some places where I’m not sure what to do. Just let me know. Thanks again
@@ToyotaRN Good job on mustering up the courage to do your own carb rebuild. You don't need to run the Hot Idle Compensator Valve, as generally it is intended for vehicles with AC., and/or vehicles that are run in very hot climates. When coming to a stop, there is much less air flow through the engine compartment, and temps can rises above the normal 200F. Think of rush hour bumper-to-bumper traffic hardly moving. This can cause fuel percolation in the carb, making for an over-rich condition (higher fuel to air ratio). The valve is a metallic strip that deforms under a certain level of heat, and there is a "stopper" on it's end covering a hole in the carb body. That hole allows air to run thru a passage in the carb and exit below the lower throttle butterfly plates, leaning the air/fuel mixture out. The valve usually only gets a vacuum signal at conditions of high vacuum, such as at idle, and the valve will only open up at around 200F or higher. I am in Central Florida and have had to capped off since doing the desmog, and haven't noticed any percolation problems at all, even in July or August. You can go ahead & run a vac line to it if you want to, instead of using a vac cap; I really don't think it's going to make much of a difference performance wise. The port for it is the lower of the two on the front of the carb, just below the throat opening. I've run one vacuum line from the Dashpot (vacuum canister on the front of the carb that is connected to a linkage system) to a ported vacuum source. I used the middle vac port directly below the Idle Mixture Screw. There is an angled port to the right of that one; that one I use for the vacuum advance for the distributor. The only other vacuum lines I run is to the Fuel Vapor Canister, which the only part of the old smog system that I kept. It traps and fuel vapor from the tank return line and from the vapor return line from the carb. Any fuel vapor it traps gets sucked out thru a vacuum line to the port to the left of the Dashpot port described above, and the fuel vapor is burned off in the engine at startup. Some people totally eliminate the Vapor Canister, but if that is done, you'll need to cap off the vapor return port on top of the fuel bowl, and either cap or install a filter on the tank return line. If you cap the tank return line, you need to make sure your have a fully functional vented gas cap for pressure relief. If you still need more info you can make & post a video to UA-cam if you wish. If you want to send pics, you can send them to me thru Yotatech, which is a Toyota truck forum (yotatech.com). You'll have to make an account but it's free, then just search for members to find me & send a PM. My tag on Yotatech is 13Swords.
If you go to start it when it's warm, have you tried holding the gas pedal to the floor then cranking the engine over? Try that and if it starts much easier than usual, you definitely have a "flooding" problem. What that does is open the carburetor butterfly valve fully open, allowing the maximum amount of air in. This can make a "flooding" or over-rich condition (too much gas) something more in line with the fuel/air mixture ratios it should be. In any case, this is almost always caused by a malfunctioning carburetor. The carbs on the 20R engine are quite good, but like any other carb they have parts & gaskets that are subject to wear, which can mess up your fuel/air mix ratio. There can also be "junk" inside the carb, clogging up some very small passages, especially the idle circuits. Best advice is to have the carb professionally rebuilt, or buy another carb that's already been rebuilt & tuned. I did the later & got one from National Carb (nationalcarburetors.com/). I highly recommend them, even though I am not sponsored by them. If I can help with anything else let me know, just make sure you give me specific info.
@@The13thSword wow 👏 this is amazing dude , what a thorough reply . Dude i can't thank you enough. I am currently living in this truck and it can be worrisome when things aren't right . Cool I'll check that website for the carbs thank you so much dude. The other problem that I'm having with the truck is at higher rims like right before its time to shift it makes a hum like buzzing sound that increases as my rpms keep increasing and then when i shift and let out the clutch and my rpms drop the noise stops. And when I get on the hwy and get to 5th gear I can kinda hear it when I'm driving but I don't go above 65 atm I was looking for information and was going to check out the fan and belts, they both need work or replacement. I just bought this truck from a lady who let it sit at her vacation home so people would think someone was home so it sat in her driveway under a pine tree for awhile , but she was the second owner, bought it in 79 from a college student whose dad bought it for her brand new , it was neat to sea the owners manual looking new and some of the Japanese paperwork still in the plastic. Anyways always cool to talk about the truck man. People stop me all the time an just have a passion for the toyotas of the past . It's cool . Wel thanks dude God bless
@@The13thSword dude I just tried it and it fired right up! Then another problem happened rpms were low when I got to a stop and when I took off, I between shift it let put a bunch of smoke and seemed like it almost back fired. Then now I stopped turned it off and it fired right up, I actually seems high now. So im going to check that screw you had mentioned on the carb so it doesn't slam closed that Last 5 percent
@@timothy2935 You are most welcome. I've amassed a pretty fair amount of knowledge about the '75 to '78 trucks, and I know it can be hard to find on the web, so I don't mind sharing it where it will help. The belts are fairly cheap and available in most part stores and aren't too hard to change out. They are one of the "reliability" items that you should change at the first sign of any major wear, cracking, etc. No sense getting stranded over an $8 belt, especially id it's the alternator belt. yikes. Certain RPM noise - what causes it depends on if you can narrow down the area it's coming from. You mentioned the belts & fan so I assume it's coming from the front? We'll start there. As for the fan, it's rare, but sometimes the fan clutch can wear out & make noise at certain RPM's. That's the metal part mounted to the front of the fan. It allows the fan to disengage from being fully driven when temps are below certain levels, and engage the fan when things get hot, to move more air over the radiator. Test: on a non-running engine (can be totally cold) spin the fan by hand with some speed. You should feel some resistance to turning it. If you feel no resistance at all, or if the fan turns 5 or more complete revolutions, it's likely the fan clutch is bad. As long as you are up front, grab the fan by the back of it, where it connects with the shaft coming out of the water pump, & try to wiggle it up & down and side to side. You shouldn't see any movement. If you do see movement that is more than just noticeable, the water pump bearing could be going bad. Those can sometimes make noises only at certain RPM's. Other things it could be? Clutch out of adjustment, clutch throwout bearing going bad, weak finger springs on the clutch disc, worn out clutch disc material. If the noise is actually more in the area of the firewall, or where the engine & trans bolt together, and the clutch is old (say 80K miles or more) I'd suspect the throwout bearing. Those have been known to only make noise at certain RPM's when they get worn. On vehicles that have been sitting, You said you just bought it so I assume you have done too much to it. And if you've been running today's regular ethanol gasoline, that could also cause your "flooding" problem. The old rubber gas lines weren't made to handle methanol, & with age they can & will shed rubber particles off on the INSIDES of the hoses. If your fuel filter doesn't catch these, they can easily clog up your small passages in the carb. I had this problem; the idle circuit was clogged with tiny black rubber particles, truck would hardly idle & ran "rich". It was trying to run only on the Main Jet circuit of the carb, which are larger opening, which allows more fuel to pass. I know it's kinda a pain in the butt & could take several hours or the whole day, but get some new rubber fuel line & replace it all, plus put a new fuel filter on it. I also recommend new hose clamps to prevent leaks. BTW, DON'T run any Seafoam thru the fuel system thinking it might solve the problem; if you still have the old fuel hoses on there it could just make things worse. That stuff is known to loosen up even more stuff, & you don't need that reaching your carb. I see you have another message so will go to that next.
@@timothy2935 That confirms that the engine is getting too much fuel, so it is most likely a carb issue. The smoke & almost backfiring is also a sign that there is too much fuel going to the engine. The smoke, backfiring or popping is unburned fuel coming out of the engine on the exhaust side. That proves it's getting too much fuel and can't burn it all on ignition. Backfiring or popping happens when the hot exhaust with extra fuel vapor in it get towards the end of the exhaust pipe, finds some extra oxygen in the outside air, and spontaneously combusts. The bunch of dark smoke is that unburned fuel. There's no need to mess with the Dashpot screw; it won't help if you're running rich like that. The carb sounds like it's the main issue, as it's what controls the fuel/air mixtures. Unless you get that mixture right, no other carb adjustment is going to help the situation. If you want to check that the Dashpot is in adjustment (it should be), run the engine, rev it a bit then let go, watching the Dashpot lever system where it makes contact with the adjusting screw. You should see it "catch" just near the bottom of it's travel, then completely "bottom out". All this happens in less than a second & is all you need with a properly running engine. Afterthought - When the engine is completely warmed up, are the choke plates on top of the carb open? They should be when hot. When cold, one push of the gas pedal to the flor & releasing it should close the choke plates completely. Just thinking that if your choke plates are always stuck closed for some reason, that would also make the carb "rich". They wouldn't let enough air in for hot running. That's why I asked you to hold the pedal to the floor, to manually hold the choke plates open, & let me air in when hot. And since you said it's been sitting, sometimes carb linkages can get stuck or gummed up & not work right. If you have any spray carb cleaner around you could try spraying down all the outside linkages to make sure they are clean.
Thanks for the video. I am having trouble getting a smooth idle. When I go to set the throttle positioner either goes 1300 or 600. FSM says to set it at 1050, then do the lean idle mixture procedure. Do you have any clues?
If by "throttle positioner" you mean the Idle Adjustment Screw I do have some ideas. First thing that comes to mind is that you should only try to set idle speed when the engine is at full hot operating temperature. The reason for this is that the choke mechanism is mechanically connected to the throttle, and if the engine isn't up to full temp, the choke may be trying to keep the engine at high idle for warm up purposes. There are several "steps" on the part that the Idle Adjustment Screw can contact, and it may be contacting one of the "higher" idle steps sometimes, other times the "correct" hot idle "step". Looking at your speed numbers, they are not correct (according to my sources), but would indicate to me that this is what is happening. The difference between the 2 numbers is correct. The spec I have on hand for the '78 20R is "Hot" idle speed 800-850, High (cold) idle speed 1600-1650. If you are trying to adjust with the engine at full hot temp, then you have a "sticky" throttle linkage on the carb. Meaning there may be some dirt/dried fuel residue "gumming up" the linkage and making it bind up. You may want to try spraying down the entire linkage with carb cleaner & letting it thoroughly air dry then try to set it again. Beyond this, there are several other things that could cause this. Worn, bent or damaged throttle linkage parts from pedal to carb, damaged or missing parts on carb, vacuum leak(s), carb itself worn (most common issue being worn out throttle shaft bushing causing a hard to find vacuum leak), bad carb gaskets, out of adjustment or bad choke mechanism (not too common). Just start with the basic stuff, like making sure the carb & linkages are clean & that it's up to full temp before trying to adjust. 8 times out of 10 it's the small, simple things.
thanks so much. By throttle posistioner, I am referring to the screw on the far right (looking from the passenger side of engine in) that is a bit underneath and the screw adjusts the throttle/butterfly on primary side). Since I wrote you, my brother and I decided to rebuild the carb. we are almost done. We are also going to check all the throttle linkage and make sure it is smooth. We did find a couple of small ports clogged and got some grim off the linkage springs. We will see. We will continue to troubleshoot per your tips!! You are awesome.
@@MichaeleLaForge Oh that one. That adjustment screw has very little to to nothing to do with idle speed in normal conditions. It adjusts the "Dashpot", which is the common term for that item; Toyota calls it a "Throttle Positioner". IF you can put that screw back on the setting it originally was that would be best. The Throttle Positioner is connected to a vacuum diaphragm that controls it's movement. It's purpose is to cushion the throttle from slamming shut when you completely remove your foot from the gas pedal. It basically "catches" the throttle linkage near the bottom of it's travel and lets it settle to the full closed position smoothly. All this happens in less than a second. Also, if you've run that screw IN a bit or a bunch more than it should be, it could be affecting your idle speed. If you end up having to do an adjustment on it after your rebuild, it's going to be a more-or-less trail and error thing. A good baseline setting though is as follows. Engine not running, choke plates OPEN, Idle Screw on low idle cam. Turn the Throttle Positioner screw OUT until it no longer makes contact with it's linkage arm. By this I mean it just barely doesn't contact the arm Then turn the screw back in 1/2 turn. Start & warm up the engine to full temp, make sure choke plates are fully open & idle screw is on the low idle cam. Rev the engine a bit and then completely let go if the throttle (you can do this under the hood). Watch the Throttle Positioner arm where it contacts the screw & listen carefully There should just be a slight delay in it settling down to normal low idle. This delay will literally be like 1/2 a second or so. If the delay is longer than that, back the screw out a little at a time, like 1/4 turn, then rev, watch & listen again. Adjust until you get about that 1/2 second delay. You could also get lucky and see by discoloration just where on the screw it was set. Where it was inside the threads will be cleaner looking than the rest of the screw's threads. Once you get that set, go back & set your Idle Speed screw to the left side of the carb, passenger side. One other thing, in case your carb rebuild kit didn't mention it. Baseline setting for the Idle Mixture Screw (passenger side, low center of carb location). Run the screw in CAREFULLY using only light finger pressure on the screwdriver, until it just stops. DO NOT TIGHTEN IT DOWN OR YOU WILL DAMAGE THE SCREW & NEVER BE ABLE TO GET A GOOD IDLE QUALITY. Once you have the screw in that position, turn it back out 1 & 1/2 to 2 turns. That should give you a good mixture setting to start with and get the engine running. You can further adjust it afterward for fine tuning. If you need info on this just let me know.
@@The13thSword Success! The carb rebuild definitely helped the performance but idle still tough. So I actually read your post on a forum. Your comment about the dashpot and the quick back to idle after flicking accelertor. You said it would go back to 800 ina couple of seconds. That got me really thinking about the dashpot and what it does. I tested it per fsm and it turned out that the vacuum switching valve was bad and it was not getting any vacuum. I went thru the set up per manual and what you advised and now I have a stable idle at 800, 8 degrees before TDC. So 😊. now I will go to Cali smog test.
@@MichaeleLaForge Excellent work. As long as the Dashpot has an engine vacuum source it will work the way it's supposed to. Hopefully you won't have any problems passing smog. Even with some or all of the "smog" equipment not working, these engines, when in proper tune, & a good state of repair, still run very clean. Also due to the age of the truck, they really don't know what smog equipment is supposed to be there so you'll likely pass the visual inspection without issue. You haven't mentioned it & you may have already done this, but you may want to do a valve adjustment to make sure they are in spec. It can make a big difference in smog test readings. Pro Tip: I know the FSM says to adjust the valves with the engine totally hot, but it can be done properly (and more easily & safely) when cold. I set the valves 2 thousandths above the spec. Spec is Intake .008", exhaust .012", so I set them cold at .010" & .014". Once the engine heats up all the metal parts expand a bit & the clearance goes right to spec. I've tested this several times and the clearance is always spot on spec at full temp. Let me know how things go.
Traducción vía Google translate, ya que no hablo español. Como ajuste inicial para el tornillo inactivo, debe ser de una a una vuelta y media. Debería poder ver cuando la punta del tornillo hace contacto con el brazo del acelerador. Debe haber un ligero contacto entre estas dos partes. Para un ajuste de "funcionamiento", ajústelo hasta que obtenga la velocidad de ralentí correcta, que está entre 800 y 850 RPM en ralentí, con el motor a la temperatura máxima de funcionamiento. Necesitará un tacómetro para configurar esta velocidad de ralentí con precisión, o sin un tacómetro, puede configurarlo "de oído". Si tienes la habilidad. Al menos puede acercar la velocidad a lo que debería ser. El tornillo de mezcla inactivo debe girar hacia la derecha hasta que se detenga. NO apriete demasiado el tornillo, ya que puede dañarlo y causar problemas. Simplemente gírelo hacia la derecha hasta que sienta que quiere detenerse. Tenga cuidado con el destornillador y no ejerza mucha fuerza sobre él. El tornillo de mezcla inactivo debe girarse hacia la izquierda entre una vuelta y media a una vuelta y tres cuartos. Esta es una configuración de "línea de base" solamente, pero debería funcionar en la mayoría de los casos, si todas las demás cosas y el motor están funcionando correctamente. Con el motor en marcha y completamente calentado, puede ajustar la mezcla inactiva si lo desea. Gire el tornillo de mezcla hacia la derecha un cuarto de vuelta a la vez y escuche la calidad del sonido de los motores inactivos. Tan pronto como el sonido cambie de suave a un poco áspero, deténgase. Luego, gire el tornillo hacia la izquierda un cuarto de vuelta a la vez hasta que el sonido inactivo sea suave. Si todo está bien con el carburador, el tornillo debe estar en algún lugar entre el ajuste de una vuelta y media a uno y tres cuartos de vuelta. Una vez que tenga la calidad de ralentí más suave posible, vuelva atrás y vuelva a verificar la velocidad de ralentí. Esto es lo mejor que pude hacer por ti. Pido disculpas por cualquier problema con la traducción de Google.
@@carlos_andres_ Traducido por Google. Usted es muy bienvenido señor. Pero yo no soy un rey, solo un hombre como tú. Necesitamos ayudarnos unos a otros por un mundo mejor. Me alegro haberte sido de ayuda.
@@The13thSword haha of course not. It’s a saying the youngsters apply now - basically it means that you are a good man 👍 I’m restoring my 1980 hilux and your videos have been helpful.
@@carlos_andres_ Again, many thanks for the recognition, & I am glad that my videos have been a help to you. That was always my intent with posting this vids. If I can help further in any way just let me know.
You, sir, are a saint. One thing that threw me at first is that there's an adapter to up the size of the hose going from the ported vaccuum line you're running to the charcoal canister. You've actually inspired me to put that back ON after I de-smogged it. I just did the head gasket and the timing chain (and the water pump and alternator and a few other things) and I'm firing it up tomorrow. I had tagged each and every vacuum line with masking tape, and then half my tags fell off and I was in trouble.
I'm glad it helped & that's why I posted this vid in the first place. I've been there before myself; tags going missing during the process & no access to a factory vacuum diagram. Plus there is *very* little info out there about desmogging a stock carb equipped 20R or 22R. "Just get a Weber" is a $400+ plus proposition & not in a lot of people's budgets. I knew there had to be a way to get a desmogged stock carb to work well.
I think it's the right call to have the charcoal canister in circuit. It does act as a vent & vapor trap for the gas tank, & I'd rather have it there doing it's job rather than having raw gas fumes from the tank going into the engine compartment from an open tank vent line.
Just for clarity as others read these threads. I have the "T" adapter on the ported line for a couple of reasons, all of them learned through my own experience.
I originally had the canister hooked up to constant engine vacuum but this presented many problems. Inconsistent idle quality (surging, couldn't establish steady idle speed, etc) & inability to tune the carb for best lean idle. Subjecting the canister to constant engine vacuum was acting like an intermittent vacuum leak. I switched to the ported vacuum & all those issues went away. Solid & consistent idle speed, no surging & able to properly tune the carb idle mixture.
The other plus to this is that the canister only gets purged of fuel vapors or the carbs draws a bit of extra air through the canister at engine speeds *only* above idle. On cold starts or completely warmed up, you'll never notice any issues or a difference in performance. I've been running this way for a long time now & have never had any over-lean problems.
Sounds like you've done a lot of hard work there; good job.👍Post back once you get it fired up & let me know how it's doing. Any other problems or needed info just ask,
this was actually a very helpful and informative video. for some reason it's really hard to find information on these engines aside from an owner's manual. usually people are just like "yeah. so here's the doohickey and the thingamajigger, turn the doohickey until the thingamajigger opens up and then get your fleeblegorp to adjust the donglebob. but I'm just gonna ignore all that and replace the carb with an edelbrock or a weber"
it's like they just assume you know where everything is already. I get that carburetors are a basic design but if you've never worked with one before, getting specific information on a stock unit from the 70s is surprisingly difficult
anyway, thanks for making this video. I needed someone to explain it to me like I'm 5 years old because I'm dumb lol
First and most importantly, you are NOT dumb. There is a difference between being truly unintelligent and just not being able to obtain the information. So please do not devalue yourself like that, even jokingly. You're better than that. :^)
Your message is the exact reason I went into the detail that I did about the stock setup. If something worked once & worked well, it can work well again. Most Toyota systems are very well engineered, so there is no reason to think they have to be yoinked off & replaced with some non-stock item that was never *specifically* intended for that application. Not to put anyone down, but that tendency to do that is just being a bit lazy in my book. Some people can't be bothered to even try to understand what the original intent was & just slap some solution at a problem that will "work", regardless of how well it will work. They are free to do so if they wish. But I prefer to know how the durn thing is supposed to work as intended. Just my opinion.
I'm happy that the info & how I presented it was helpful to you, & thanks for letting me know that. If I can help with anything else just ask.
And don't forget to fine tune your carb's ka-nibbler valve & measure all clearances in microns (1 millionth of a meter). Totally kidding here. :^D
Thank you for making this! It's way more helpful than the standard "Just replace it with a Webber" answer I usually get when asking about stock carbs.
You're welcome & I'm glad it was of some help to you. Not all of us out here can just throw money at a problem to solve it & we have to work with what we have. Besides, I'm a pretty firm believer in that using a purpose designed part to work with a particular engine is usually the best way to go, reliability & durability wise. I have nothing against the Weber 32/36, but even people that have them will tell you it can be a bit finicky to tune. Not so much with the stock Aisin carbs.
Thanks for the comment & let me know if I can help you out in any way.
Wow incredibly helpful info, I’m planning on getting a Weber myself but I currently have a stock carb that had been “half way desmogged” by the P.O... and this is very helpful
Josh - Glad to be of service, exactly what I intended with making the video. By the way, if you need more info on the de-smog & what's involved there is a very good (but long) write-up of it on Yota tech here: www.yotatech.com/forums/f114/de-smogging-early-22r-205845/
Depending on what year you have there will be some differences. Just thot you'd like a data source to check against what has (or hasn't) already been done in your truck. Drop me a line if I can fill you in on anything that the write-up doesn't.
This video has helped me so much. Ty
Glad it helped!
Howdy from Victorville,Cali
The tension spring replacement,thnx again
You're welcome.
very helpful! Thanks for taking the time to do this vid!
Thank you so much for this video
No problem, I'm glad it helped. I'm going to try to get another video up soon on how to adjust this carb for best lean idle.
Thank you so much for making this video
You're most welcome, I hope it was some help to you.
Amazing video man
Thank you sir, hope it was helpful.
thanks for showing this
Your videos have been incredibly informative as I've got 2 20R Coronas. Ever run in to an issue where your dashpot was holding the throttle positioner open when going down the road but not at idle? Trying to troubleshoot that on one of mine.
Yes I've had that happen. Fortunately the Dashpot itself was OK & it just required a fair amount of tinkering with the adjustment screw to get it just right, because I didn't have the manual spec for it, but I do now. Here it is straight from the service manual:
"With the throttle released, the clearance between the edge of the primary throttle valve plate and the venturi bore should be:
Manual Gearbox - 0.024" or 0.6mm
Automatic Transmission - 0.020" or 0.5mm"
Please note that this adjustment is done with the carburetor completely removed from the intake. The "throttle valve plate" stated above means the "butterfly plate" at the bottom in the base of the carb, so you can't measure it with the carb installed.
Adjusting the Dashpot with the carb installed is less direct & a little tricky but not impossible. Engine has to be up to full operating temp & at normal low idle (Manual 800 RPM, Auto Trans 850 RPM). I start by backing off the adjusting screw until it just loses contact with the throttle arm, then running it back in until it makes the slightest contact with the arm (look for very slight arm movement from this), then backing the screw out an eighth (1/8) of a turn. Then rev the engine a bit, completely let go of the throttle linkage & let the linkage settle back down to idle, while watching the dashpot & listening to the engine.
What you want to see & hear is the dashpot adjusting screw contact the arm just before it "bottoms out" at normal idle position & idle engine speed. It's a very small portion of the arm travel & when set correctly. The time element (duration of the "catch & settle") is very short, guessing like a half second or less.
You might have to do this repeatedly to get it just right. It takes very small adjustments to the screw once you get it close. Once you do get it set to what appears to be correct, check that your normal low idle speed is correct as stated above.
The Idle Adjustment Screw and the Dashpot adjusting screw are inter-related, as both can contact the throttle arm & both effect engine speeds. So you may have to go back & forth between the two screws until you get the right balance of functions.
Hope this makes sense. Let me know if you need clarifications or have any other questions.
@@The13thSword THANK YOU for this very detailed response. Spent some time on it today and got it to run properly without having the throttle hold itself open while I was driving. Got a brand new carb recently and looks like the throttle position screw was all the way in, which somehow was causing it to hold it open. Really appreciate the wealth of 20R knowledge you're sharing with everyone
You're welcome & I'm glad it helped. Sometimes at the factory or the rebuilders shop, they don't always set everything correctly, so I've learned that it always pays to go through all the adjustment settings before you install the carb.
If anything else comes up that you might need some info or an opinion on just let me know. Thanks for letting me know it helped & for the like & view.
Very big thanks for vacuum hose explanation I have a 1980 with the same set up but the 3 hoses coming off the back side 2 of them are running into a splitter mounted on the Fender weld ..... But here's the issue I'm having is every time I drive it when I shut it off and lets out a loud backfire and I've had the time and done and that didn't help it so I'm wondering if it could be the carburetor adjustments
You are most welcome. Your problem could be carburetor adjustments, but could also be other things. I'd need some more specific info in order to ever try to narrow it down for you.
I assume you meant a splitter on the fender "wall" instead of weld(?) If these are larger diameter hoses than the "regular" vacuum line hoses, those are either for the vapor canister, the brake booster, or possibly both. I know of no reason why there should be a "splitter" (I assume you mean a "T" Fitting?). The vacuum sources for the canister & the brake booster should be hooked up to their own dedicated vacuum ports, not shared.
By "backfire" do you mean a loud "pop" from the tailpipe? Or do you mean the engine "pops back" through the carburetor? Which one you mean makes a big difference in diagnosis. You say you had the timing done(?) but do you know for sure the timing was set correctly? When I got my truck it was set to "0" & it stayed that way for years, until I found out it should be at "8". You'll need a timing light to check this yourself & it's worth having one. You can get one from Harbor Freight for about $30.
Also, just setting the timing correctly may not solve your problem if you have worn timing parts, i.e. stretched timing chain, worn timing gears, damaged/broken/missing chain guide(s), malfunctioning chain tensioner. Unless you know for sure that these parts were replaced with new ones less than about 70,000 miles ago, they could be worn. These worn parts can cause timing issues. A worn out distributor can do this too but it's less likely. You can also diagnose a stretched timing chain with the timing light. Just hook it up, run engine at idle (warmed up) & check the timing marks on the crank pulley. If the mark jumps around (not showing up in one steady place) that usually means a stretched chain.
As far as carb adjustments to fix your problem, could be, but you'd have to "baseline" it to find out. Meaning, the carb settings should be put at the stock settings (fully warmed up, idle speed about 800 rpm, fuel mixture screw about 1 & 3/4 turns out from lightly seated). This WON'T work if you're having timing issues as described above; you'd have to get those fixed first. Also if you don't know where these adjustments on the carb are PLEASE look up a diagram of your carb FIRST before you mess with the settings. Trust me on this one. Decent diagram here :automotorpad.com/toyota/249351-toyota-20r-carburetor-diagram.html
Also make sure your choke & choke plate isn't stuck in a closed position when the engine is warmed up. This can cause a "rich" condition (too much fuel) which leads to lower MPG, poor performance & sometimes tailpipe backfiring. Dirty old carbs can have stuck parts like that. Spraying down the linkages & outside of the carb w/carb cleaner spray when the engine is cold can solve some of those issues. Just let it soak a while after spraying it down before trying to start it up.
That's about all I can give you right now. If you have some more specific info you can give me about your truck I'd be happy to consider it.
I'll try to do a video on the issue I'm having next time I'm home .... normally out of state 3 months at a time... thanks
@@joshuabradshaw2201 No problem, I'd be glad to look at it. Safe travels in the meantime!
@@The13thSword I'll start work on the lines for sure. I tuned the idle down to a nice low hum with no issues yet. Planning to clean the carb and start with factory adjustment and tune from there.
Thanks for the info man
No problem, hope it was some help.
Hello, on the water activated choke, what is the proper name to the hoses that connect to it? I have the leftside hose leaking.
Thank you
Jim
@jimcastillo8950 Toyota calls them Water Bypass Hoses. reference: parts.toyota.com/a/Toyota_1978_Truck-DLX-MT/_51507_6727109/RADIATOR--WATER-OUTLET/671430-1603.html
They are no longer sold by Toyota but it appears that Gates still makes them. Try Googling these part numbers as written:
Gates 18801
Gates 18805
The 18801 is the driver's side hose & the 18805 is the passenger side hose. They may have to be cut some to fit for correct length. They both appear to be readily available on the market from Amazon, Ebay & likely some local parts stores.
If y can't find them online or locally, you could try lengths of new "straight" heater hose of the proper inside diameter to replace them. I've never tried that so I don't know if the straight hose would kink on you or not. That's why the molded type is a better choice if you can get them.
Thank you so much ,
I have 92 22R enjin, but your explanation is very helpful. Can I ask you how can replace the PCV ? ITs shaken and I can't remove it & i don't know it's work good or not.
The PCV Valve is just pulled out of the rubber grommet it sits in. It can be a very tight fit, so you may need to use pliers to get a good grip on it to pull it out. Disconnect the hose going to it first, and grab the top of the part with the pliers and pull, hard if you have to, it will come out. Also be sure to inspect the grommet to make sure it is in one piece and not dried out or the rubber has turned hard. Since your truck is 29 years old, it would be a very good idea to replace the grommet.
This 2.5”square diaphragm is facing the firewall it has about a 3” shaft out of the center. It connects to a spring loaded lever on the secondary butterfly shaft on the bottom of the throttle body it helps open the secondary butterflies. The diaphragm has come holes in it. The truck is so gutless the secondary doesn’t open. Do you know where I can find one?
This is going to get a little tricky so bear with me. What you are referring to is the Secondary Diaphragm which progressively operates the secondary (main) side of the carb. If that diaphragm has holes in it, it's no wonder the truck seems "gutless", as the main side of the carb is barely or not working at all. It's only running on the Idle side of the carb, regardless of speed or throttle position. When you step on the pedal and the accelerator pump give the engine a shot of gas it speeds up, creating more vacuum. That vacuum is routed to that secondary diaphragm and progressively opens up the secondary butterfly, allowing more fuel/air flow.
After doing a LOT of research, That diaphragm is NOT offered for sale as applicable to the Pickup. However, it appears to be offered for the Land Cruiser, and that carb appears to use the very same secondary diaphragm mechanism. My confidence level on this is fairly high, as I did a LOT of cross-referencing on parts. A carb parts listing for a Corona of the same year, which has the 20R engine, shows the diaphragm & gasket in the carb parts diagram, but shows as "unavailable". Checking a Land Cruiser carb parts diagram of the same year shows the exact same parts, same part #'s, and shows as the parts being available. This happens sometimes because the same year Land Cruisers are much more popular than the cars & pickups. This despite the Land Cruiser having a 6 cylinder instead of a 4. They appear to use a lot of the same carb parts & even the same carb itself.
The only other things to watch for are that there are two types of the secondary diaphragm out there. One has a straight shaft and another has a small bend at the end of the shaft. They are not interchangeable. So check to see which type you have on the 20R. I found a "bent shaft" type on NAPA & Ebay by searching Toyota land Cruiser Secondary Diaphragm. (NAPA Echlin CRB-24093). However I suspect you have the "straight shaft" type.
I am reasonably sure that the parts being offered by Toyota will work on your 20R carb. Reference diagram part #'s 21649 (gasket) & 21698 (diaphragm). Here is the link: parts.lakelandtoyota.com/showAssembly.aspx?ukey_assembly=480320&ukey_product=3927411
Question....I've got a 78 with the 20R. It will not start at all unless I prime it manually with fuel. How can I check the primary accelerator pump for proper function? I don't know much about these carbs. It's identical to yours. Thanks
Qualifying statement first. *IF* the fuel pump is getting fuel to the carb's fuel bowl at the proper volume and pressure, and as long as the carb's accelerator circuit isn't blocked, and if the needle valve isn't stuck shut, and you can verify that there is the proper level of fuel in the fuel bowl...
Then all you have to do to verify proper function of the accelerator pump is to look down the carb's throat, operate the linkage by hand & watch for fuel to shoot into the carb's interior body in a steady stream. It would also be wise to look at the top of the accelerator pump shaft that sticks out of the top of the carb cover for movement.
I gave you the "qualifying statement" first because in my experience with this setup, fuel issues are usually pump (supply) related or carb related, or both. Sometimes there is no simple single answer, especially on vehicles with this many years on them. Lots of things can go wrong over time and the whole system needs to be checked out back to front to find & fix any & all issues.
With that said, if your carb hasn't been rebuilt in a while, it would probably benefit from a tear-down, cleaning & rebuild. There are lots of small parts (like seals) that can wear out over time & use, plus some of the small passages (fuel circuits) can get clogged up with "trash', "gum", dirt, etc.
Again, the best thing you can do for yourself is go through the whole fuel system & fix whatever needs fixing along the way. I know it's more work but in the end, I basically had to "touch" every part of mine before I got it to the point where it works & runs well all the time with no issues.
If you have more questions & I can provide any other info just ask me. Specific questions are best.
@The13thSword yes thank you. Can you explain the accelerator pump/circuit as I believe that is where my problem is.
@@JamesDavis-jo9tk Here is a link to a basic diagram: www.flickr.com/photos/amwelto/39081569240/
The accelerator pump plunger moves downwards and forces fuel through a passage and past the pump discharge weight. That weight acts as a check valve and only opens when the plunger is in motion, forcing fuel past it. There is also a check ball (check valve) below the plunger, to prevent the plunger from over-pressurizing the fuel bowl. That pressurized fuel is then discharged into the interior of the carb throat, below the choke plates.
That's the entire accelerator pump circuit.
Just my own opinion but I wouldn't think that if the accelerator pump seal isn't doing it's job, that really wouldn't have anything to do with the engine only starting by putting fuel down the throat. And then it won't continue to run once the fuel you dumped down the throat is gone, correct?
If so I'd say you have one or more of the following problems:
1. Blocked Idle Jet or Idle circuit
2. Nonfunctioning/malfunctioning or disconnected Idle Stop Solenoid
(Both of the above would prevent ANY fuel from going thru the Idle circuit, which is needed for the engine to run after starting, even on "cold" high idle with the choke plates closed.)
3. Blocked Main Jet or Mani circuit
4. Float Bowl Needle Valve stuck closed or open
5. Other fuel delivery problem (fuel pump, bad/old gas in tank, blocked or leaky fuel lines, clogged/blocked fuel filter
You should also check that the fuel bowl has the correct level of fuel in it. There is a sight glass on the front of the carb; that's where you look for fuel bowl level. Here's a link to what it looks like on the carb (Figure 2-23):
www.retrojdm.com/ScanViewPage.asp?ScanID=104&Section=Engine%20Tune-Up&DPI=100&Filename=02-07%20-%20High%20Tension%20Cord,%20Carburetor.jpg
In any case, if the accelerator pump plunger seal is not doing the job, it's likely that the whole carb could use a rebuild.
Have you pulled any of the spark plugs to see what they look like? if so what color are they? If any of them (especially #1 plug at the front of the engine) has any black soot on them then the carb is rich (too much fuel). I mention this because there is also a vacuum actuated Auxiliary Accelerator Pump Diaphragm that can develop pinholes in it and create a rich condition at all times. If that's the case that #1 plug will be black and the rest look normal (grey to light tan color deposits).
Let me know any info on any of this and we'll move forward.
@@The13thSword thank you for this information. Yes, the engine runs fine after it is manually primed the first time. I can drive it all day as long as I don't turn the ignition off. To do so means a manual prime to restsrt. I did check the electrical solenoid and it is functioning as intended. I will now order a parts kit and do a substantial overhaul and cleaning. I did find a alot of debris in the bottom of the fuel bowl upon initial inspection and a few vacuum leaks. The plugs all look normal and perhaps a bit lean.I will pay special attention to that check valve and spring below the plunger that you were telling me about. I do not hear extra fuel spraying inside the throat when I work the throttle.
@@JamesDavis-jo9tk You do not hear extra fuel spraying inside the throat when you work the throttle, but can you *see* any? You also need to look down the throat when you manually work the throttle to see if the plunger is putting out any fuel.
I still think that this is a symptom of bad seals in the carb, possibly more than one & it needs a rebuild, so good decision there. Take your time with it.
While you're waiting for the rebuild kit I recommend that you check out every rubber fuel line & replace all of them with new line. If you have some of the older style fuel line on there and any of the modern ethanol-laced gas has been run through the system, the insides of those rubber lines could be deteriorated. Non-ethanol rated rubber fuel line can't handle ethanol-laced gas without shedding off small particles of rubber. I know this because it happened to me.
Beyond that, you could still have some issues with the fuel system as far as correct supply of pressure & volume. If you have an electric fuel pump in the tank (stock kind) there are a few electrical things that could cause that to happen. Let me know if you get that far & I'll help you out with specific info.
I have a 21R engine . I need to find out how high up on the glass is the fuel level? Is half way between the two metal tabs or level with the lower tab?
Halfway between the two metal tabs is correct. Exactly the same as on a 20R. Any level between the tabs should work OK. I personally prefer to have the level right in the middle. Level with the lower tab can be OK, as long as the engine runs the way it should at idle, no missing, rough running, having to turn the idle mixture screw more than 1 & 3/4 turn out from bottomed, etc.
If you need more info on this let me know what specific questions you might have. The fuel level can be adjusted but you need to take off the top of the carb to do it, and there are some measurements you have to do.
Where do the 3 line from the mechanical pump go to just obtained a 79 pickup 20r with mechanical pump had no pump when I got it so I'm not sure where they go
You should have 3 metal lines coming out of the fuel pump. I will describe their orientation or direction, & the lines that go to/from them as if the fuel pump was already mounted to the cylinder head.
The line that points downward is the inlet, or fuel supply from the gas tank.
The line the points towards the firewall & is parallel to the valve cover is the outlet, the line that goes to the carburetor.
The line coming out of the top of the fuel pump is a fuel return line. This line sends fuel back to the gas tank.
Notes:
Make sure you install the plastic spacer between the fuel pump & the cylinder head or the pump will not work.
If the spacer didn't come with your truck or with you new fuel pump, you'll need to get one. You should be able to find one locally at any major brand auto parts store. Two of the most commonly available ones are:
FEL-PRO 70577 or BECK/ARNLEY 0392003.
Completely clean off any old gasket material on the head. Use the new gaskets that came with the pump, one on either side of the spacer.
Do NOT reuse old gaskets or you *will* have an oil leak between the head & the pump mounting flange.
Installing a new fuel filter at the time you install the pump is highly recommended.
Torque spec for fuel pump mounting bolts is 30 foot/pounds. Be careful not to over-torque these as that could strip the threads out of the head.
Any other questions feel free to ask.
Ive got a 1980 Toyota pickup 22r, been having a problem trying to find a good rebuild kit. Im looking for a specific few pieces but cant see them in the kits doing a basic "google" search. its the rubber boots on top of the carb, passenger side, the rod the sticks up vertically that is attached to the linkage with the pivot bolt in the middle. Trying to find those seals for that vertical shaft. Any help????
That would figure. Since the vehicle is older, parts for it don't sell as frequently, so you sometimes have to get creative with your parts searches. I can almost assure you that you probably will not find the carb kits in stock at local parts stores; they special order them in to save on shelf space.
Fortunately, Rock Auto is showing 2 complete kits in stock that include the rubber boots for the accelerator pump linkage. Have a look here: www.rockauto.com/en/catalog/toyota,1980,pickup,2.2l+l4,1277120,fuel+&+air,carburetor+repair+kit,5964
Either the Walker or Standard are good quality kits; I prefer Standard because of previous experience with them & that kit has the gaskets in it for both the 20R & the 22R, but it's your choice. There is also an "OEM" kit available at LCE Performance, but costs a lot more and I cannot vouch for it being authentic OEM, as Toyota themselves don't seem to offer a kit anymore. Link in case you want to look: www.lceperformance.com/Carburetor-Rebuild-Kit-22R-Aisin-Carburetor-p/1031001.htm
Let me know if I can help in any other way.
I'm new to working on this stuff, but I'm wondering if you ever get weak acceleration or even stalling when you press the accelerator quickly due to the accelerator pump vacuum port being capped. My understanding is that vacuum allows the valving to work to allow more fuel to enter the mix when the accelerator is pressed quickly, thereby avoiding too lean of a mixture. Has this been an issue for you?
No this has not been an issue for me and you do not need to have vacuum to that part for the engine to run perfectly fine. I think we have a bit of a misunderstanding on how this part works.
That part is called an Auxiliary Accelerator Pump, or AAP for short. It is NOT the main accelerator pump for the carb, that is a different part entirely. The AAP's only job is to work when the engine is cold and not yet up to full operating temperature, as cold engine usually require more fuel to run well. The AAP's vacuum port was designed to be hooked up to a thermo vacuum switching valve (TVSV). The base of that valve is screwed into a coolant port & senses coolant temp. Below about 180 degrees F the valve is open & allows vacuum to go to the AAP. That vacuum pulls on the diaphragm inside of it & allows a bit more fuel to flow. Once the engine get to full temp, the valve closes & removes the vacuum from the diaphragm. Plugging the port is the same as having the "no vacuum" condition.
As long as your choke mechanisms are adjusted correctly and working properly, you don't really need the AAP, even with cold engine conditions. There should also be no real effect in acceleration, cold or hot. I've never experienced a problem with acceleration with it being capped.
If you are experiencing weak accel, stumbling when you step on the gas or even stalling when you step on it, you have another issue or issues. If it's doing this cold (anytime before reaching full operating temp) most likely you have a choke problem (sticking choke, broken or disconnected choke linkage, choke out of adjustment). It could also be a partially or totally clogged accel jet or idle circuit, or a clogged transition port (these are small holes in the carb, near the base of the throat at the bottom butterflies). Even fully warmed up it could still be any of those things, or even your idle mixture not being adjusted correctly, as that does regulate how much fuel can pass in that circuit. It could also be vacuum leaks elsewhere on the carb or in the vacuum system.
A few other causes could be a sticking throttle linkage or cable, or like on my truck, wear to the throttle linkage rods & pivot points. I've found that wear issues can also cause some really weird & hard to track down idle & run issues.
Another thing I found is particles or fuel line rubber clogging up the tiny passages & ports in a carb. If your rubber fuel lines are old and you have been running gas with ethanol in it, the ethanol can deteriorate to insides of the fuel lines, as older style fuel line was never formulated to handle ethanol. This causes very small rubber particles to break free & possibly end up in the carb & block off those things.
@@The13thSword You were 100% on two counts. plugging the brake booster hose allowed me to get the truck to start so that I could drive it uphill to my garage. I replaced the booster (thanks thanks for the recommendation!) the old one was rusted through on the bottom. Brake power was greatly improved, after a bleed it was amazing. It still had to keep a high idle to keep from dying. I sprayed the carburetor with the idea that maybe something was sticking and noticed the engine revving. After closer inspection, there was a split in one of the hoses that lead from the center of the carb. I cut off the split section and reconnected and it runs beautifully now. Praise to the 22R! And thank you for your help!!!
@@jamesmcpherson3924 Glad to hear you found the problems. Good work on the brake booster and finding the vacuum leak.
One more recommendation. Do yourself a favor & replace all your vacuum lines with new ones. The split in the one you found shows that the rubber line is old & brittle, and it can split or break again without notice when you are driving. I also recommend that you replace the vacuum lines ONE AT A TIME, so nothing gets mixed up or messed up.
If I remember correctly, most of the line is 3mm size (12 feet total), with the rest being 6mm size (4 feet total). O'Reilley's or Auto Zone should have it in stock; you can buy it by the foot. Buy a few extra feet of each size than the lengths listed above to make sure you can cover everything.
I assume you got the high idle down since you got rid of the vacuum leak? Interested to hear.
i'm removing the old carburetor & replacing it with a weber 38 & a new intake manifold can i run the coolant hoses together that are in & out of two water choke ports?or what else can i do with them?
Sure you can. It would just serve as a coolant bypass. You could just use a new section of heater hose that fits the ports and loop it. Ss long as it doesn't kink on you it'll be fine. If I were doing it that's what I'd do. I would NOT just cap the ports, because that would affect coolant flow and could cause you to lose some or all of your in-cab heater function.
Do you know what sizes the bolts are that hold down the original carb. I lost mine trying to put on my original carb.
Did you lose ALL of them? If you even have one of them left, you can match up new bolts from that one at nearly any hardware store. If you don't have one left to match up, in general, the bolts should have a 10mm shaft diameter and a 1.25mm thread pitch. Please note that the bolt head size may be either 12mm or 13mm, depending. Original Japanese bolts (JIS - Japanese Industrial Standard) have the 12mm head, while "regular" Metric bolts will have a 13mm head. In my experience either should work.
As for length I can't say, as I don't have one handy to measure. However you could measure the depth of the bolt hole to get a good idea. I also seem to remember that one or two of those are not bolts but studs with a nut. They were used due to space considerations, where it wouldn't be possible to use a bolt or even get it into the hole, in certain spots on the carb.
Also, torque spec for those bolts should be 9-10 foot pounds and no more. Over-torqueing the bolts can warp the carb base flange and cause a vacuum leak.
Here's a reference chart on the original Japanese bolts & nuts, with specs. I know it says "Corolla" but Toyota used the same hardware on all of their models.
www.tcorolla.net/standard_bolt-487.html
I hope this helps.
Above the brake booster line I have 2 vacuum lines coming off the carb instead of the 1 like yours has and the choke piece on the top on the other side I also have 2 vacuum lines there compared to your 1. Do you possibly know what those are for and if I need them? It is a 78 celica gt liftback with the 20r
It depends on whether or not you're still running the original stock emissions system & if those parts are still working or not. Most basically, you don't need most of the original vacuum lines for the engine to run well, as long as any unused vac ports on the carb are capped off.
Here's a link to a repro vac line diagram for the '78 Celica 20R that might help you figure out what you have & what goes where: toyota4low.com/products/1978-vacuum-diagram-decal-20r
As you can see, most of those lines go to emissions control valves, which may or may not be functional, considering the vehicles' age. The only reason I know of for you to still need any of the emissions equipment is if your state law requires it to be present in the vehicle, like for inspection purposes.
I'm in Florida where we don't have laws like that so I removed all of the emissions equipment. I'm running the vacuum advance line to the distributor, the vac lines for the choke pull-off & dashpot, & 1 line to the charcoal canister for fuel vapor purging purposes.
I went ahead and did exactly what you have here with my carb and it runs the same as before (not sure if it is a good or bad thing might still have a leak somewhere) the main reason I wanted to do this is the car doesn't match the chart already and was missing some hoses. I messed with the carb screws last night and have the mixture screw out about 3 turns maybe more and was told that means I probably still have a vacuum leak since that should be rather rich running. I really appreciate the video and input!
@@ugellis237 I would agree, that mixture setting is too rich. If all is as it should be, the setting should be 1 & 1/2 to 1 & 3/4 turns out. IF you have the ports on the carb for those missing hoses well plugged, then your vacuum leak is in one or more of the remaining hoses, or in the carb itself.
Let me ask you, is the carb original to the car? Has it ever been rebuilt? How many miles are on the car?
I ask this because the carb itself can have vacuum leaks in certain places due to use & wear. It could be a broken or missing piece of gasket between the carb body parts, or more likely, worn throttle shaft bushings in the base of the carb. My old carb had this last problem & I was having the same issues that you are.
You can test for these things with the engine warmed up & idling, & using a can of carb cleaner. In my case, I shot the carb cleaner at the ends of the throttle shaft & very time I did, the engine ran a bit faster for a second or two. The leak in the bushing was allowing the carb's vacuum engine to draw the cleaner in & burning it like a fuel. Hence the speed up of the engine.
Personally if I suspected this to be the case, I'd just get a rebuilt carb from National Carb & send them the old one as a core. Or you can send them your carb & they will rebuild it for you & send it back to you. More info here: nationalcarburetors.com/toyota-cars_c_47.html_4-cylinder-2-barrel-carburetor_1978
During their rebuilds they always replace the throttle shaft bushings, so that there will be no vacuum leak there. Solved my issue & I can now tune the carb perfectly. Plus they use updated internal parts so that the carb can run on today's 10% ethanol gas.
After messing with it some more last night I think I got it even closer running on 1.75-2 turns out. I was told the carb was rebuilt 2 years ago then sat not too long after that until I bought it. I have noticed now that the accelerator pump is leaking. The mechanic here in town said he'd take a look for me next week and check it for vacuum leaks since spraying carb cleaner did not change anything when I tried. Yet again thanks for the advice it's definitly gotten me very close on the setting of the carb and I will probably remove more emissions items in the future and hope it cleans out the engine bay.
I’ve been over this video a couple times to reference my little 1976 Toyota Pickup I believe is an sr5 but the place from where your filming is where all my vaccum lines run to the carburetor from. Wondering if yours is very different or if I don’t need that?
I'm not quite sure what your exact question is? If you could word it more specifically I can give you better answers.
In the meantime, if your '76 has the 20R engine, there is a vacuum line diagram available for it on Ebay right now: www.ebay.com/itm/1976-Toyota-Pickup-Truck-Hilux-Vacuum-Diagram-Decal-Repro-20R-2WD-/324079297896
The simple answer is that all those vacuum hoses are there for emissions equipment. Unless your local laws require that the equipment be present, you do not need it for the engine to run well and to run clean. The '78 does have some extra emissions equipment that the '76s & '77s do not have; an emissions computer and some extra vacuum valves & tubing. Mine may look different now because I have removed nearly all of the emissions equipment (desmogged. After 40= years most of it was not working anyway, there are no replacement parts available new, and it was a source of vacuum leaks.
Again, if you have specific questions please feel free to send them to me, and I'll do my best to answer them.
I did see part of your second message, but for some reason UA-cam won't let me see the whole thing. I do see you found the same Ebay listing for the vacuum diagram for the '76 tho. The box with the 8 vacuum ports on it marked "V.S.V." in the diagram is a Vacuum Switching Valve. It actually has more than one valve in it to do different things at different times, depending on what vacuum signals it receives from the various components hooked up to it (see diagram). Not all those components send a vacuum signal all the time. From '78 & up, Toyota starting using single VSV's in various places, instead of putting them all in one box like yours. That is one difference, but it still works the same way.
Perhaps a simple answer here is that you could disconnect any or all vacuum line(s) going to that box at the lines source on the engine side of it, then cap the vacuum ports on the engine side so you don't have any vacuum leaks. Then retune the carb to best lean idle. I can give you links on how to do a best lean idle adjustment; it's not hard to do.
As long as you don't have to pass any "smog inspections" you can do this.
Can I eliminate the secondary vacuumed assembly. The diaphragm is full of holes
I need a better definition of "secondary vacuum(ed) assembly" to be sure we are talking about the same part. Please describe the part in detail; size, shape, exact location on the carb, etc.
I wish I could find a CA SMOGGED setup for the Toyota 20R/Aisan carburetor. Doesn't the DMV have a task here?
You might want to try searching the Yotatech forums boards for info on that, if you haven't already. www.yotatech.com/forums/f60/
Only other thing I can tell you is keep checking on Ebay. Sometimes the CA smog parts turn up for sale there, if you need them.
Hey buddy I hope you still check this post. I’m stranded in Los vagus in my 1971 dolphin 20R. It’s like it running with the choke on or not getting air
I assume you've taken off the air cleaner & verified that the choke plate is actually closed? Or stuck closed? It the truck running rich? Black smoke from the exhaust?
If the choke plate is stuck closed you can try a few things.
1. Spray down the choke linkage with carb cleaner & gently (and I do mean GENTLY) work the linkage by hand to see if it will free up. Sometimes the linkage gets "gummed up" & won't move, or cause the choke to remain in the closed position.
2. Sometimes on the 20R carb, the choke plate can get stuck completely closed in the carbs throat. It can also get stuck completely open, especially if you've hit the gas pedal suddenly & hard.
If stuck closed, give the plate a few light pokes on the back side (firewall side) of the plate. This has happened to me once or twice. If stuck open, gently push the top of the plate towards the rear of the truck, & it should pop back into normal position. This has also happened to me before.
3. If the choke thermostat isn't working or moving, or not moving or opening at all even when hot (this is rare) - Carefully disconnect one end of the activating arm from the choke thermostat to the choke plate. I would do this at the plate end personally. You won't have any choke for cold starts but some extra pumps of gas should get it started. And once the engine warms up it should be driveable.
Um hey so yep I am battling hard start I took ignighter off and gm mod nope so I am straight coil to battery with resistor I get it started and I got some hoses confused I thing I set the screws and timing and it's running so rough and surging
@timothycourtney9430 I'm not too sure how to help you on this, as your description lacks a lot of detail, and a few things don't make sense. The HEI nodule would have to be working to turn the coil on & off in order to even have it starting & running rough. The coil wired direct to the battery has nothing to do with that. You also don't want to have constant voltage to the coil, wired like that, as that will make the coil fail a lot sooner. The power for the coil should be switched from the ignition switch.
You didn't mention what module brand/part number or coil brand/part number you used; it would help me to know that info. How did you ground the module? Please describe in full. The module ground is critical to making it work correctly.. You didn't mention the state of your carburetor - old, new, rebuilt recently & by who? Describe how you "set the screws" more completely. like which ones, how many turns, etc.
If it's not shown in this video about correct vacuum hose routing/positions, I do have it shown in one of my other videos; have a look through my video listings.
By "Timing" I assume you mean engine timing. How did you set this? Describe in full. What is your engine timing set to. On the 20R it should be 8 degrees before top dead center on the compression stroke of the #1 piston. If timing is not set correctly it could cause hard start & rough running.
Have you adjusted the valves? Have you taken off the valve cover & had a look at the valvetrain for any problems? If you do have a look, also check out the timing chain near the front of the engine. Sometimes if the chain is older with a lot of miles, it could be loose from being stretched, from broken chain guide(s), non-functional chain tensioner. Any of these can also cause hard start or rough running problems.
Again, help me to help you by giving as much complete & detailed info as you can.
i bought a weber but dont think i need it now that i put the carb kit in
I have 22r converted from EFI and Im having an issue where the truck ran perfect until one day, after it warms up, will die if I'm not applying throttle. When it first starts it runs perfect but after a few minutes, it will die unless I'm hitting the gas. The first time it happened the truck would only die in high gear when applying throttle, it bogged out and died while I was driving. Now it runs in high gear but dies for example if I'm coming to a stop. But if I can keep throttle up, I can keep it on. Idk what happened to make it do this, but everything was fine with it ran perfect. Now I don't know what to do
It's difficult to tell you where to start without more specific information, and especially on what was a 22RE (Electronic Fuel Injected version) converted to a "22R" (Carbureted version). I also don't know if the engine was "desmogged" or not (emission equipment either removed or blocked off) either completely or to what extent.
Or what type and kind of intake & carb you are now running. 22R intake & carb from a similar year model or otherwise?
Was the carb new or freshly rebuilt or just plain used when the conversion was done?
Are you running a stock Toyota fuel pump or something else? If something else, what brand, part number & how & where is it mounted?
What model year is the vehicle?
How many miles put on since the conversion?
Those are just the initial questions that I have that need *specific* answers before I could even start to point you in a specific targeted direction. It's never easy to diagnose run problem remotely without a ton of solid info, and even then it can be difficult. But if you can completely answer the above questions I will try to help you.
Okay this is going to be a lot. If there's a time we can talk on the phone or video chat I'm down to do that to make this easier on you. And if you can help with this I'd like to pay for it. So here we go. The motor I was told was a remanufactured crate motor when conversion was done. I don't know what the motors year of manufacture or remanufacture, and i have no way to verify that's true or not. The truck was desmogged as far as I can tell, and to make your life harder (I would think) it's a California model. Chassis is 1993. I was told the aisin carb on it was from a 70's model truck and it has an electronic choke. Im going to give you background on how I got the truck because it might be important. It belongs to my boss, and he was tired of paying his mechanic money for parts and labor and he told me that he wants the truck off of his property or he wants me to have it if I'm going to use it, which would over time make the investment worthwhile because I can be more effective having a truck, I normally ride a motorcycle so capabilities are limited. But he said if I can't use it, if it doesn't run or whatever, he wants it out of sight and mind. His mechanic was not happy when he found out the boss basically gave me the truck. All of the vehicles and equipment that the boss has are only, for the most part, operated by one person. That person is the same person who fixes vehicles or equipment that get broken. So the only person who runs everything is the only person who can break anything, and then he gets paid to keep things operational. (Fix what he breaks) Everything is rigged with kill switches too. So basically this guy extorts my boss and has the keys to all of his equipment and is the only one who knows how to use everything because of how he set it up. And my boss can't do anything because he needs him to run it all to get shit done. And who knows if anything will run ever again if he fires this guy. Well when I got the truck, mechanic man told me "when that gauge on there says it's on E, you got 1 or 2 miles before you run out of gas" -_- i would have never predicted that.... What a concept, I'll run out of gas when on E... Anyways,
A day or 2 later, he hits the truck with a trailer he was moving with an excavator. Barely left a dent tho surprisingly, and I wouldn't have even noticed if he didn't make a point to tell me it happened and apologize to me. The next day, I ran out of gas. Despite my gauge reading half a tank. Someone brought me a gas can and it drove back to the yard without incident. The next day I filled it with fuel all the way, cleaned the top end of the carb and the float bowl which was filthy. I'm pretty sure that the carb was well used when the conversion took place btw. Definitely not rebuilt. Possible that it was cleaned up. I can't get any more information other than what I have because I think that Mr. Mechanic sabotaged the truck by telling me when the gauge reads E I'll run out of gas (no shit dude) and then overnight did something to make the gauges reading fixed, therefore I would run out of gas and it would have to be parked in the yard so he could do whatever he did to it to keep it from idling. I can't get any information about the conversion because I'd have to askthe mechanic. He may not have done anything to it I'm just entertaining the idea just in case. But regardless, he definitely isn't going to provide me any information about anything else with the truck. This is all the information I have. And I believe the fuel pump is stock. Possibly from the truck the carb was from.
@@calebclark7959 I don't mind handling this through YT messaging but if you prefer you can go via direct email with me. My email address is available on my channel's "about" page. I'd like to keep the discussion here as it could help out other with the same problems but if you'd rather email me directly that's ok. I don't mind trying to help out and I do not require pay for it. I will try to take your provided information in order for clarities sake.
With the truck being a 1993 California model and that it's has a remanufactured "crate" engine installed that's carbureted, I'd likely suspect that the engine is a 1985 to 1995 22R base block, as engine cores in that date range are more plentiful. There are no differences in the block for '85 to '95 22R's & 22RE's, only the intake & fuel supply methods are different (carb vs EFI). IF you want to verify that it's an '85 to '95 block check this page: www.lceperformance.com/category-s/23265.htm
Look at the picture at the bottom and the circled area. All '85 to '95 blocks will have this shape cast into the block at that location (driver's side above oil pan flange).
It being a Cali model doesn't matter if it's been desmogged, it actually makes things simpler. I doubt that the carb is from a 70's model (20R, 1975-1980) as those has a coolant activated choke, not an electric choke. When Toyota came out with the 22R in 1981 they went to the electric choke.
Interesting story about your boss & how you got the truck, but it was a good score for you at least. Getting a basically free pickup in any kind of decent shape rarely happens. Onwards...
Jumping ahead a bit here. The fact that you can keep the truck running by giving it gas means that your fuel pump is working at least to some degree, so I don't think that's the problem. However, I don't think you have the truck's original fuel pump, as there are big differences between the original EFI fuel pump & the carb-style/type fuel pump. The EFI pump is a in-the-gas-tank location/type & puts out about between 20 to 60PSI in fuel pressure. That much fuel pressure would overwhelm the needle & seat valve in a 22R carb & cause massive fuel flooding. A fuel pump compatible to the 22R carb only puts out about 4 to 6PSI fuel pressure. It is a mechanical type (not electric) driven by an eccentric ring on the camshaft, & is usually mounted on the front passenger side of the cylinder head.
If you don't have the mechanical fuel pump on the head, it is possible that mechanic used an earlier electric in-tank fuel pump intended for a 20R. You'll have to look & tell me what you actually have there. Just covering the possibilities here, giving the background you explained to me.
For reference, if you have the mechanical fuel pump, it will look like this: www.yotatech.com/forums/f115/help-mechanical-fuel-pump-109852/
Plenty of pics on that post so be sure to scroll down & have a good look.
If you don't have the mechanical fuel pump there should be a block-off plate installed, & it will look like this (second picture): www.yotatech.com/forums/f115/help-mechanical-fuel-pump-109852/
In that case, that mechanic guy has done some weirdness & either has that earlier model in-tank electric pump feeding the carb, or some other arrangement (aftermarket and/or electric in-line pump).
You said "The next day, I ran out of gas. Despite my gauge reading half a tank. Someone brought me a gas can and it drove back to the yard without incident. The next day I filled it with fuel all the way, cleaned the top end of the carb and the float bowl which was filthy."
That combined with some other info you provided that leads me to believe that this truck had been sitting for a while, gives me a fairly good idea of what the problem might be. Running an older vehicle that's been sitting out of gas will often cause this problem. And that is debris, dirt or some other substance has gotten past the fuel strainer (filter) in the gas tank (if it even has one or may have dislodged from the fuel pickup tube), & picked up "trash" from inside the tank. The fact that you said the float bowl was filthy could indicate this. Debris, dirt, rust particles or other "trash" in the fuel system can very easily clog up the idle circuits in the carb. That means the engine won't idle normally because there is little to no fuel coming through the idle circuit, so the engine has to try to run on the main circuit instead. Your having to "stay on the gas" is exactly that, making up for the lack of fuel from the idle circuit.
Same issue but related - If this truck has been sitting for some amount of time and has original type rubber fuel lines on it, AND anytime in the last 10 years or so, "modern" Ethanol enhanced gas has been put in the tank, that's a big issue. The Ethanol will do 3 things to older vehicles.
1. Ethanol can & will attract atmospheric water vapor (humidity) & could cause rust inside the tank, which isn't very good for the fuel system.
2. Ethanol can act like a cleaning agent, loosening years or decades old deposits in the tank, fuel line, etc., and then that dissolved "trash" goes to the carb & clogs it up, as described.
3. BIG problem - Old style rubber fuel lines that were not formulated to handle Ethanol-laced fuels will start to break down internally & shed rubber particles into the fuel, again causing the carb idle passages to clog up.
Lastly, if the fuel filter located in the engine compartment hasn't been replaced for a while, you should get a new one in there. It should look like this: www.rockauto.com/en/moreinfo.php?pk=5030175&cc=1277782&pt=6200&jsn=1127
Solutions -
1. Completely drain & remove the gas tank so you can thoroughly clean it out & get a new fuel strainer installed. Sidebar - While you have the tank out you might want to consider replacing the fuel sending unit so that the gas gauge is more accurate. You can get workable Chinese-made units on Ebay or Amazon for about $20 + ship, or OEM Toyota ones for about $70-$90.
2. Replace ALL rubber fuel lines with new modern ones designed to handle Ethanol-laced fuels, and replace any hose clamps that need it.
3. Disconnect & remove the Idle Cut-Off Solenoid from the carb. Shoot carb cleaner spray in the hole where the solenoid was to try to clean out the idle passage. This could take several applications It's also very recommended that you hit that hole with some compressed air after using the cleaner. Let it dry for several minutes then reinstall the solenoid & reconnect the plug to it.
4. Check & replace any vacuum hoses that are broken, torn, cracked or stiff with age. Since the engine is desmogged you should only have to worry about the PCV hose, brake vacuum booster hose, and the vacuum advance hose to the distributor.
Make sure any unused vacuum ports on the carb are plugged with quality rubber vacuum caps (don't use the cheaper plastic ones, they don't last).
There's a pretty good start for you. I highly advise you doo all that is outlined above. I've learned from experience that it never pays to short-cut anything when it comes to older vehicles, especially ones that might have sat for a while. Just take your time & be complete about things.
If anything is unclear or you have other questions I'll be monitoring.
It's a lazer block. Like you said. The truck has both fuel pumps on it. The fuel cut off solenoid, is that the one that's on the top of the carb passenger side or is it the one at the rear of the carb? I think the one at the rear is the electric choke right? Also, there is a large diameter line that comes from that electronic component on passenger side that I believe is the cut off solenoid. It is not connected to anything. You may be right about the truck sitting, but the truck ran great for a week. A day before I ran out of gas at half tank, the mechanic told me I would run out of fuel when the gauge says empty. Why would he tell me something so obvious. What would make sense to me is that he told me that because he turned off the fuel sender so that I would inevitably run out of gas, thinking I'm half full remembering he said it will run out right at E. Let me know if I missed any information you needed, I'm going to proceed with your solution procedures and respond with the results once I complete that
@@calebclark7959 The fuel cutoff solenoid is a metal cylindrical shaped part with one or two wires coming out of it, and is located on the carb on the passenger side nearer to the top of the carb and a bit to the rear. Have a look at this picture: nationalcarburetors.com/Toyota-Hi-Lux-204-22R-1983-21892367-CC-AT-22R_p_559.html#mz-expanded-view-1050672389106
Picture view is from the passenger side of the carb, & the fuel cutoff solenoid is directly above the red colored screw (low idle set screw).
You are correct, the larger item at the rear of the carb is the electric choke unit. Shown in picture with the red wire running to it.
*NOTE: Both the electric choke & the fuel cutoff solenoid are usually wired to the "hot" side of the ignition, so that they operate when the key is in the RUN position. Just wanted to note that here but since the truck was running OK before the "out of gas" issue I wouldn't suspect any wiring issue with those pieces.
I'm not too sure what you mean by "there is a large diameter line that comes from that electronic component on passenger side that I believe is the cut off solenoid." The 22R carb fuel cutoff solenoids usually have 2 wires on them but no vacuum lines at all.
It's anybody's guess why that guy told you anything but you'd do well to just deal with what is in front of you that you can actually see. I've been doing this kind of thing for a while and have learned that you can rarely take at face value anything a previous owner or mechanic that worked on the vehicle tells you. It's just better to look for yourself & see exactly what's going on & do what needs doing. If he disconnected the fuel sender then the gas gauge would read dead empty. It's more likely that the sender is stuck in the half-full position, but you can verify or dispel this by looking at it when you clean out the gas tank. The sender may be worn out, broken, corroded, the wrong one, who knows? But getting a good look at it will tell you plenty.
I look forward to hearing what you find.
Thanks for this video , Awesome, I own a 1977 Toyota Celica
I moved this screw (fast idle ) and I didn't know how to reset it, can you help me the car doesn't start now unless I put fuel
in the carburettor
I have a few questions about this. Which way did you move the screw" Turned to the left or to the right? When you say you can only start the engine if you put gas in the carb, is the top choke plate open or closed?
From you brief description, I'd suspect that it is open. For a "cold" engine, it needs extra gas to start & run until it "warms up" to normal operating temperature. The top choke plate helps that to happen. It restricts air flow into the carburetor, so that the engine gets more gas than air. As the engine "warms up", it needs less gas & more air. The choke mechanism on the carb progressively opens the top choke plate to do that.
There is a linkage connected to the top choke plate that operates a cam, that the fast idle screw comes into contact with. To do a basic setting on the fast idle screw:
1. With the engine "cold". Remove the air cleaner. Locate the fast idle screw & turn it to the left until you see very little or none of it's threads on the inside of the lever that it is threaded into. DO NOT COMPLETELY REMOVE THE SCREW. You want it to remain threaded into it's lever.
2. At the rear of the carb, operate the throttle lever, moving it at least 1 inch of travel. This should make your top choke plate close completely. If the top choke plate does not close on it's own you have a choke issue that has to be solved first.
3. With the top choke plate closed, look at the fast idle cam. It should have two (steps) on it. The second "step" should be in line with the fast idle screw.
4. Turn the fast idle screw in (to the right) until the screw just barely touches the second "step" on the fast idle cam.
This is how mine is, stock 20R carb. It is possible that you might have a later model 20R carb or a 22R carb on it, and the mechanism might be different. The fast idle screw might adjust an "arm" that contacts the "steps" of the choke cam. But the setting works the same way. On those you just need to turn the screw in until the "arm" just touches the second "step" on the cam.
@@The13thSword
Thank you for the quick response, and thank you for the great information, I need some time to implement the steps because I do not have experience, and need to the cold weather (the temperature in the day is 50 degrees and the humidity at night is 85%) .
I will inform you of the results
Which way did you move the screw ?
I didn't do it myself it's the mechanic in the garage
@@tarout5 You are welcome. Just to be clear, you do not need the cold weather to do this. When I said "cold engine" I mean that the engine has completely cooled off from it's last run time. This usually takes an hour or more in most cases. If the engine has not been run for at least an hour you should be able to do the procedure with no problems.
Air temperature of 50F (10C) to do the procedure is OK.
Even if the weather/air temperature is 100F (37C) that's OK. Most gasoline engines run at 180F to 190F (83C to 88C) at full operating temperature. The choke is designed to be fully closed even at 100F, & full opened at 180F to 190F.
Air humidity is not a factor.
Do not be worried about your lack of experience. Just follow the steps carefully. Take you time with it, I'm sure you can at least get things to a point where you can start the engine without having to pour gas in the carb. Once you can do that, you can "tune" the carb to get a proper fast idle speed & low idle speed.
Sorry to hear the shop mechanics did this. :^( Most mechanics today know nothing about carburetors or how they work; they are all used to fuel injection instead.
@@The13thSword Yes, I understand you, but it is difficult for me to work at a temperature of 50 C
@@tarout5 Understood. I'll be waiting to hear back from you once you can get to it.
Hey love the carb vids I’ve learnt a lot from them but I’m having a small issue with my carb on my 75 pickup it was running fine till I drive it full speed about 70mph now it won’t stay idled when hot .. I also notice that the throttle adjustment screw , screws up against a lever , when the engine it hot that lever pulls back and the throttle adjustment screw has nothing to rest on .... if you have a email address I can send a video of me going over my carb and you can see exactly what’s going on .. there is some smog equipment removed from my setup ... any help would be much appreciated thanks !
Two things here right off to top. One is, I don't know what condition your carb is in (been on there forever & maybe a bit dirty, recently cleaned in place on the engine (if so how?), pulled off & rebuilt (rebuilt by who?), etc) so it's really hard to nail down what it could be. If you can give me more specifics that would help. Second thing is that if some of the smog equipment has been removed, a lot of that stuff is/was vacuum operated from manifold vacuum. If the ports that stuff was hooked up to weren't capped off or badly capped, you might have a vacuum leak. Even if they were capped off but the caps are old, that "full speed" blast you took might have knocked one of them loose or off. Vacuum leaks affect idle a lot more than above idle speeds.
As for Throttle Adjustment Screws, there are actually three on this carb. From your description I think you are looking at the Fast Idle Adjustment Screw. If this screw is towards the back of the carb, and the head of it is pointed on an angle downward, that's the one. The "Regular" Idel Adjustment Screw is on the passenger side of the carb, a bit towards the back, and the screw itself is orientated parallel to the ground.
Just to make this more clear, here is a link to a diagram of the carb, with the different screws labeled. Scroll down to the 6th posting and you'll see it: www.yotatech.com/forums/f114/1978-20r-high-idle-dieseling-timing-298874/
By the way, if you do have a vacuum leaks or a blocked idle passage inside the carb, turning the "regular" idle screw may not make any difference. If somehow the screw "backed out" on you so that the idle was adjusted too low, it might work. If that is what seemed to have happened, get the idle adjusted where you want it, then put a drop of Loc-Tite Blue (NOT RED!*) Thread Locker on the threads. Once it dries it will keep the screw from moving again on it's own. The Blue stuff is semi-permanent and you can break the screw loose later if you have to.
You could always post your video on UA-cam. More videos on YT about these old trucks helps everybody.
Thanks man I’m going to check out some of the vacuum caps and and go over the carb some more tomorrow and see what I can figure out ..thanks for the advice ! I’m going to post a video of it on my channel and I’ll let you know
I just rebuilt this carburetor. I am a novice with this. But hey it wasn't working to begin with. Put it all back together and what do you know it runs!... sorta. The at the top which allows more air in is just hanging loss. What did i do wrong with the linkage?!?!
It would help to know the exact year of the vehicle and what the engine model is (20R, 22R, etc.) so I can give you more specific info.
You said "The at the top which allows more air in is just hanging loss (loose?)" I'm going to assume that you mean the plate at the top of the carb that pivots. This would be the choke plate. It has it's own linkage on the carb and it's operating correctly is very important to how the engine runs before it reaches full temperature, and even after it reaches full temp. There is a linkage that moves that plate, and it should be a part of a thermostat system mounted to the carb. This can be controlled either by coolant (20R) or electrically (22R).
How it works - Cold engines need a richer fuel/air mixture to run right (more fuel, less air), but a leaner mixture (less fuel, more air) once up to operating temp. The choke controls this and should be almost or completely closed on a cold engine. This restricts airflow into the carb, providing a richer mixture. As the engine warms up, the thermostat on the carb moves the linkage & progressively opens the choke plate, allowing in more air, leaning out the mixture. It should fully open at the same time the engine reaches full operating temperature, IF it's adjusted correctly.
First make sure you didn't disconnect the linkage on the carb for the choke plate. If it's disconnected, reconnect it. If you got a diagram with your carb rebuild kit you should be able to find it. As long as you did not change the setting on the thermostat, it should be close to the setting you need. The choke plate should then be in the closed position. Once the engine is started and if everything else is working, the plate will open slightly. The plate will then slowly open as the engine warms up.
Did you read & follow the instructions that came with your carb rebuild kit? There is some important info in there about the mixture setting. That has to be close to where it needs to be for the carb to work right as well. Check your diagram. The mixture screw should be on an angle on the passenger side of the carb. A good baseline setting for it is - turn to the right until it wants to stop (do NOT crank down on the screw, you WILL damage it*) then back it out 1 & 1/2 turns. A "turn" is a full rotation of the screw head (360 degrees).
* The mixture screw is usually made of brass, so if you crank it down tight, you can deform the tip of it and this will mess up your ability to properly set the mixture. When I work on one of these carbs, I always take the screw completely out to inspect to tip for deformation, to make sure someone before me didn't do this.
Let me know exactly what you're working with if you need any other info or tips. I've been through almost everything to do with the 20R carbs.
@@The13thSword the exact same as yours. Toyota Chinook 1978, 20R engine
@@nslecea Very good. Anything specific you need or want to know just ask.
I just acquired a 78 Bandit something like a Chinook. No power to fuel pump so I hooked a fuel jug to the carb via gravity, and it lit right off wide open. Is it the carb or the fuel delivery? It had been sitting for years. I hope you see this as you are the GURU!! The linkage seems o.k.
Hard to say without actually seeing it in person, but carb'ed vehicles that sit for a while tend to have some issues. Personally I would (might) suspect the carb. It could be that the float is stuck open, allowing a full flow of fuel to go through the carb, giving you the "wide open" effect. You may or may not be able to free up the float without taking the carb apart & rebuilding it. Sometimes just getting fresh gas into the fuel bowl will "melt" any varnish or gum in there that is causing this.
Keep in mind that it could also be some other problem or combo of problems, like a clogged needle valve (this is the valve that regulates fuel level in the bowl & works with the float). If it's clogged, your temporary gravity feed system may be overfilling the fuel bowl & causing the condition.
Also, depending on how you have your Gravity Feed System set up, it could just be feeding too much fuel into the carb, overwhelming the shutoff valve (unable to meter fuel, kinda like dumping gas down the carb throat while it's running, it will speed up). The carb itself may NOT be the prob at all.
The Idle Circuit could be clogged & the fuel is going straight through the Main Jet Circuit (too much fuel to run @ idle speed, so again, wide open effect). Could also be a non-functional idle shut off solenoid (normal function - prevents engine from continuing to run when you turn the key off). If it's stuck in the "Off" position the idle circuit will not work right It could be stuck closed from gum & varnish.
It's the difference of vacuum from the engine vs atmospheric pressure that draws fuel through the passages of a carb, which are designed to "meter" the fuel flow. If 1 or more of these passages or components (like those mentioned above) are clogged the carb will not work correctly. Now you also see why I say it's tough to know without actually seeing it.
Short of a complete tear-down & rebuild of the carb, or changing it out for a freshly rebuilt one, there are a few things you can try, if you have the time to "monkey around" with it. This will look worse than it actually is, due to me trying to be complete in instructions, if you want to try them. 2 ways:
1. Clean carb on the engine. This takes several cans of Carb Cleaner (cheap stuff from parts store works OK for this) & a source of compressed air (air compressor best, canned air too expensive to use). Remove air cleaner, remove 2 large bolts from front of carb, below fuel level sight glass window, remove idle cutoff solenoid (passenger side of carb, has 1 wire going to it, disconnect this). Don't lose any parts! Spary carb cleaner into both brass vent tubes in carb throat; these go direct to the fuel bowl) to "wash out" any sediment or "junk" in the fuel bowl. Spray into port where idle cutoff solenoid goes. Look/listen for cleaner to come out of a port low in the carb throat, confirming it's open. Spray thru the 2 holes where you took the large bolts out. The Idle & Main Jets are inline with these holes. Use the "straw" that came with the Carb Cleaner spray can to reach the Jets. All this should take at least 1 can. Let it sit after you are done spraying for 10-15 minutes, then use the compressed air to blow into all the places you sprayed. Re-install all parts you removed & test.
2. Clean carb off the engine. This requires carb cleaner in a "paint can" (recommended - Gunk Carburetor & Parts Cleaner with Drip Basket, 3 quart size). Remove all previous parts described above. Mark & diagram all vac hoses (important!) so you can put them back where they belong. Disconnect vac hoses, disconnect linkage (one clip on underneath side), unbolt carb from intake & remove carb. Clean off any major dirt or junk from outside of carb with a brush or cloth. Now you can "dunk & soak" the whole carb in the can of cleaner, overnight recommended. This will "melt" or loosen up any varnish or gum deposits, even inside the carb passages. After soak drain the carb of cleaner & hit with the compressed air, esp at any inside passage access point (jets, solenoid port, vac ports, etc.) Reinstall everything (make sure you get ALL of the vac lines back where they belong or the carb will not work right!) & test.
I showed you all this so you have options. If neither of these methods works & the engine won't run right, the carb will need rebuilding or replacing. I personally wouldn't go beyond method #1 above (carb cleaner spray cans) because due to age or use the carb could very easily be worn out & in need of rebuild. Some old carb problems can't be fixed by cleaning. Also, I've leraned from experience that it's just easier & less of a pain to just put a rebuilt carb on & go from there. Rebuilding it yourself using a kit is only for advanced skill people; I leave it to experts. I have a source for rebuilt carbs for the 20R (at a reasonable price too), let me know if you need it.
As far as no power to the fuel pump that is another topic. How do you know there is no power to it? Checked with a volt meter? Don't hear it running? Other? Did you check your fuses? Let me know. Could be several things.
@@The13thSword WOW! thanks for getting back so quick! That's some GREAT information, I will try to get it going myself, it seems to be a good little engine, wide open, its a BOSS! It only ran for a second blew a mouse nest plum across the yard! Anyway,thanks again
@@wesfrazier5739 You are most welcome. The 20R engine is a very well made engine & a good runner. I doubt you'll have much trouble with it. Just clean that carb as best you can & see what you have. If you need anymore info or help I will be here. I would have some suggestions & advice on what's next after you get it to run. Good luck.
hey I don't know If this will help but I have a 76 chinook and the fuel pump that came on it turned out to be too far from the gas tank, it was sitting up with the engine. Installed a new one about half way between the two and wired it with a switch in the cab I turn on manually. I haven't had a problem with it since.
@@sarajohnson4990 sounds like a good idea. Would you be interested in selling your fuel tank as they are made of unobtanium. LOL
im having some issues. not sure about vacuum diagram and the hoses being correct. its a 79 pickup with a 21ru in it. not sure if its the stock 20r carb or the 21ru carb. but my issue is it cold starts fine and runs fine untill it warms up. then it spits and sputters under any more than half throttle. the fuel tank and pump were rusted out and i replaced it with a fuel cell and external pump. the plugs were pretty bad so i put some BKR7 plugs in it just to get it fired up. it seems like when the choke opens it runs bad and if i push it closed it runs best. i would imagine its full of gunk/dirt and rust. what are stock spark plugs a 5? and how do i get the choke to not cause it to run like S#|t when it warms up?
From what I know, the 20R & 21RU carbs are very similar. From the description of your run problem, I would say that you are running lean. The specific info about the choke positions is key here. Warmed up with choke open it runs bad, warmed up with choke closed it runs better. The choke is simply blocking off some airflow which makes the air/fuel mixture richer. Since it runs better when warm with the choke closed, we can assume that the carb isn't providing enough fuel for those conditions (lean). It's probably not the chokes fault here. Most likely you have dirt, rust particles or other debris in your idle circuit in the carb.
The rusted fuel tank & pump are a good clue here. The idle circuit in a carb usually has VERY small passages, than can easily get clogged up with particles. That would account for the lean condition when warm. Even when not at idle, the idle circuit still flows some fuel so if it gets clogged, you are basically just running on the main fuel circuit in the carb, which can't provide enough fuel on it's own for the engine to run right.
What to do? Ideally you want to remove the carb and do or have done a full cleaning and rebuild. If you can't do that or can't afford that, there are a few things you can try that sometimes work. First thing is to try and clean out the idle circuit. This can be done with the carb in place, but you'll have to remove several pieces to access the idle circuit. See Figure 29 on this page for a diagram' it's for the 20R carb but yours should be very similar: www.autozone.com/repairguides/Toyota-Pick-ups-Land-Cruiser-4Runner-1970-1988/CARBURETED-FUEL-SYSTEM/Carburetor/_/P-0900c1528004d6c2
You need to remove the fuel cut-off solenoid on the passenger side of the carb, the 2 nuts in the fuel bowl on the front of the carb below the sight-glass, and the idle mixture screw*.
*CAUTION - Idle MIxture Screw - before removing the screw, turn it to the right and count how many full revolutions it turns, until it just stops (do NOT force it). It should be 1&1/2 to 1&3/4 turns. Thatis how it should be set when you put the screw back in after cleaning.
With all these parts removed, you will have access to the fuel bowl & idle circuit. Get a couple of can of carb cleaner with the "spray straw". Shoot carb cleaner into the solenoid port, idle mixture screw port, and the idle & main jets. The jets are located in the fuel bowl; you can directly access them through the holes where the bowl nuts were, just look in there, you'll see them. Also spray some cleaner around in the bowl & look for any junk that washes out. You can also spray down the angled brass tube in the carb throat; this is a vent tube to the fuel bowl. Use AT LEAST 1 can of cleaner on all of this.
After the cleaner, the best thing to do is get an air hose & shoot some compressed air into even open port & hole. This helps "blow out" any junk that's in the idle circuit. It also helps dry up any leftover cleaner. Re-install all the parts you removed. Remember to set the idle set screw as described; turn in to right until it just stops, then turn out 1&1/2 to 1&3.4 turns. If you unplugged the solenoid plug it back in.
Start it up, warm it up, and see if it made a difference. If you get it warmed up & the choke is open and it's running better, then you know the idle circuit was clogged. If it doesn't make any difference, the carb will have to be deep-cleaner & rebuilt.
More info coming, separate reply.
The 21RU was a Japanese only motor installed in several models from 1978 to 1987. Info here: en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Toyota_R_engine#21R
It was also used as a replacement engine for some US Toyotas that originally had the 20R. You didn't say where you are, but the 21RU is NOT a common engine to find here in the US.
I do not know if the NGK BKR7 plugs are correct or not. The info I could find was NGK BPR5EY or Denso W16EXR-U. Source: jp-carparts.com/toyota/partlist.php?maker=toyota&type=312140&cartype=1&fig=1901
Do you have an inline fuel filter or no? If not you should. If you do, you should change that out too. Have you changed out the fuel lines? Are you running gasoline with Ethanol in it? Ethanol is very hard on the old rubber fuel lines, and actually makes them shed rubber particles inside the line. These particles can clog your carb. I highly recommend replacing the rubber fuel lines with ones that are made to handle Ethanol fuels.
Last thing. This sounds like a "rescue project". Keep in mind that with old vehicles, you really have to go through EVERYTHING on them, because they may have been sitting for years unused, or just not maintained that well. Do everything from the ground up, system by system. It's worth doing on these old Toyotas.
@@The13thSword Thank you, i was wondering about those two under the sight glass good to know. i honestly could not even tell that was a sight glass at first was so dirty, pulled off and cleaned. rust fluid came out. pulled the idle circuit and some rusty sludge. i am in washington state, it only sat since 2016 the 79. if i could get a wide or narrow band O2 sensor on it to dial in the carb that would be great!
this is a great section all the detailed replies.
@@TheLHROCKS No problem. Yep, rusty sludge could easily be what's clogging up the idle circuit. Be especially sure to thoroughly wash out the fuel bowl to get any heavy rust particles out of there, or it's just going to clog up again. If it were me I'd use as much carb cleaner as needed in every port until no more rust colored liquid came out, then blast with compressed air & do it one more time with the cleaner for good measure.
You don't need an O2 meter to get the carb dialed in well. All carbs work pretty much the same way so you can use the "best lean idle" procedure. It's pretty straight-forward. Here are someinstructions for a Weber carb but the same procedure will apply to your carb. It's in the middle of this page: www.cjclub.co.il/files/Weber3236adjust.pdf
by the way this procedure should be done with the engine fully warmed up & the choke fully open. Once you get the idle mixture set at it's best point, adjust the idle speed to 800-850 RPM. If you don't have a tachometer just set it fast enough so there is no "chugging" & runs smooth.
I also found some other specs online for your engine that may help for tune ups & valve adjustments: members.iinet.net.au/~stepho/eng20r.htm
Let me know when you get it going or if you need anything else.
@@The13thSword one more, are most all the stock 20-22 carbs interchangable?
hello a question this carburetor is the same as 1979 toyota pickup 20R
Yes it should be the same carb. To the best of my knowledge, the carbs for the 20R were the same from 1975 to 1980, with the "water choke" on them (choke operated by engine coolant). There would also be no difference in carbs for any '75 to '80 20R equipped Toyota, like the Celica & Corona.
@@The13thSword I have the same problem with the carburetor of my toyota pick up 79 that has many hoses and I do not understand where they go and I see that yours does not have many.
@@josevicky779 As mentioned in my video, I have "desmogged" the truck. This involves removal of some of the emissions devices and some the relevant hoses. The 20R engine & carb do not these all these things to run well and still be fairly clean burning. Whether you can do this or not will depend on your local states emission & inspection laws. I am in Florida where we do not have any vehicle or emissions inspections so it was possible to do.
Basically and in specific, I have found that these carbs only need vacuum lines for the vacuum advance for the distributor, the choke pulloff, and possibly the AAP (Auxillary Accelerator Pump diaphragm) plus a few more optional ones listed below. All other vacuum ports on the carb can be plugged or capped off to prevent any vacuum leaks. I have my AAP plugged.
The only other hoses I have on it are vacuum for the power brake booster, one hose from the bowl vent to the charcoal canister (to trap any evaporated fuel from the bowl), one vacuum line from the canister back to the carb (to draw in any fuel vapor to be burned in the engine on start-up) and the PCV Vent Hose.
It can be even simpler if you go with a Weber carb instead (Weber 32/36 DGEV), which is a very common, long standing thing that owners of these trucks have done. You would only need the vac advance for the distributor, and whatever accessory hoses you need like the brake booster line. Genuine ones aren't exactly cheap (about $320 new) & also require a fuel pressure regulator and a power wire for the electric choke. Being able to do this would also still depend on your local inspection & emission laws.
More info/basic install instruction video on the Weber 32/36 is here: ua-cam.com/video/Lf_zaw4QOm8/v-deo.html
If you have any other specific questions let me know & I'll try to help you out.
Is it possible to unclog the jets on this without removing it from the vehicle?
The Main & Secondary Jets can usually (note; USUALLY) be unclooged/cleaned without removing the carb from the vehicle. There are 2 large bolts on the front of the carb that, if removed, provide access to those jets. If the clog is very hard or compacted though, it may be difficult to unclog the jets with just carb cleaner spray directed at them through the access holes . It might be best to remove 1 bolt, drain the fuel bowl, reinstall the bolt, then spray carb cleaner into the fuel bowl via the vent ports in the carb throat. These are 2 brass tubes you see in the carb from the top when you remove the air cleaner. Let it soak awhile (hours) & refill if necessary. Then try to clean jets as outlined above. Usually works.
There are some other jets & passages (slow jet, air correction jet, idle fuel passages, transfer ports & passages) internal to the carb that, if clogged, you may or may not be able to unclog without taking the carb apart, or at least taking it off the vehicle & soaking the whole thing on carb cleaner. It can sometimes be done w/o removing the carb, just depends on how clogged up it is. I can give you details about this if you want.
@@The13thSword Thank you for the quick response! I'll give it a shot and see how it goes. I appreciate it!
@@casey_james I just happened to be on, you're most welcome. Good luck with it, & let me know how it turns out.
Man did you go to school for this or did you teach yourself
Hiya T, long time. All self taught out of necessity. The web has been a big help on most things (generally), but had to learn much of the stuff about my specific truck the hard way, trial & error. Not alot on the web for mine ("75 to '78), & too poor to buy the factory manual.
Miss seein ya out there on the streams, hope all is well with you. Thanks for having a look.
The13thSword. At Carnag3 stream right.
Figured as much, just me not having time for that too much lately.
I haven’t been able to watch him in along time tonight was the first time I drop by his stream in more than 4 months
Why my choke is always fully open ??
Hard to say without being there to actually look at it. I assume you mean it's even fully open with the engine dead cold?
Try getting a can of carb cleaner and completely cleaning the outside of the card, especially all the parts of the choke linkage & plate. Then inspect the entire choke linkage to make sure it's connected up. If all the parts are connected as they should be, lubricate every pivot point on the linkage with some light oil, like 3-in-1 oil or ATF (Automatic Transmission Fluid). Don't forget to oil the pivots of the choke plate itself.
Oiling the carbs linkages & pivot points should be done on a regular basis, about every 5000 miles or so.
@@The13thSword this is with engine cold or hot ,running or not,I feel like the choke should have some resistance,but it feels lose,or either the choke need to be adjusted like you mentioned in this video,my have the 2 hoses like yours,so it works by water heat as you mentioned,I did the carburetor cleaning but I didn’t oil anything,so that’s my next step,THANK YOU ALOT FOR RESPONDING SO QUICK.
@@martinlandaverde403 No problem, just want to help out if possible. Hopefully getting some light oil on the moving parts of the choke linkage will help. I was also having trouble with my choke plate, getting stuck om the fully open position. This was happening when trying to start cold, giving one full "pump" to the gas pedal then cranking.
Once I oiled the pivot points for the choke plate shaft, the problem stopped happening. I guess the shaft was getting stuck in the holes it pivots in. In any case, it fixed my issue. Let me know how yours turns out.
I’m not sure if you still read these, but I have an original carburetor on my 1978 pick up. My choke had been stuck for many years and I finally fixed it However now I am getting a strong smell of fuel in my oil and I’m not sure if that’s a mixture issue and or something else. Any idea?
I absolutely read every comment/question people send me, no problem. :^) I kind of doubt it's a mixture issue (i.e., your mixture setting screw being out of adjustment), plus that screw really only adjusts the idle mixture. But if you want to verify or eliminate that possibility, you can "baseline" it. It's the screw that is on an angle, center of carb, near the base of the carb. Get a flat-blade screwdriver that fits the slot well. Turn the screw to the right slowly until it just wants to stop turning (lightly seated). You do NOT want to crank down on this screw as that will damage it and you'll never get a good idle. Count how many turns it goes until it lightly seats. If it is more or less than 1 & 3/4 turns, it was out of adjustment. Then turn the screw back out 1 & 3/4 turns. That is the baseline idle mixture adjustment for that carb.
By the way, a "turn" is a full 360 degree rotation of the screw. If that adjustment doesn't solve the fuel smell in the oil issue it's something else.
Other things that could cause that issue. The float could be out of adjustment (set too high). This will noit allow the needle valve to shut off fuel flow when it should. This causes there to be too much gas in the bowl, which can cause flooding. It is also possible that there is some debris or "trash" in the float bowl, that is keeping the needle from totally seating. The needle valve controls when gas can enter the fuel bowl and if it cannot seat & cut off the fuel flow, the carb will flood.
Check the sight glass on the front of the carb; you may have to clean it off to see it well enough. The fuel level, if correct, should be between the two "tabs". If it is above the top "tab" that's too much fuel and it may be flooding.
Specific to the 20R carb - Possible ruptured Axillary Accelerator Pump Diaphragm (AAP). This problem could allow extra gas to constantly go to your #1 cylinder. Two ways to check for this problem. The AAP is located on the passenger side of the carb near the front, and has a sort of triangular cover with three screws holding it to the carb, plus a vacuum line going iinto it. Pull the vacuum line off the port and see if there is any liquid gas in it. If there is, the diaphragm is ruptured. You can also remove the #1 cylinder spark plug (engine cold, cylinder nearest the front of the engine). If the electrode is black (fuel fouled) it could be a sign of a ruptured diaphragm. Easy fix for this is to remove the vacuum line from the port & cap off the port.
Questions. How long have you had the vehicle? Has the carb ever been rebuilt? There are other wear problems that the carb might have if it's original. How is your engine timing? The spec is 8 degrees BTDC. Are you running the stock in-tank fuel pump or something else? If an aftermarket fuel pump, what brand & part number? Some aftermarket electric fuel pumps might have too high a fuel pressure, which can overcome your needle valve and cause flooding. Is your air filter clean? A clogged up air filter can cause the carb to run rich (too much fuel). Let me know.
@@The13thSword I’ll look into all the suggestions you have given and then give you a detailed reply but to your other questions. The truck belonged to my father and he bought it new in 78’ I fully restored it and had it repainted about 5 years ago. He wasn’t the greatest at long-term maintenance. But the carb is original stock. Never been rebuilt. I just recently discovered the choke plate was literally glued open from years of carbon deposit. I really should remove the entire carb and clean it but I’m just not confident to do that/fear i won’t get it back running like it does now. It purrs like a kitten and has great compression for its age but the spark plugs definitely getting too much fuel because they are almost black on the tips. I replaced them yesterday once I discovered the strong gasoline smell in my oil. I did discover tonight the choke diaphragm hose (think that’s what it’s called?) was not connected to anything so I re-hooked it up but I’m not sure if that’ll fix anything. One thing I have noticed though is that when I adjust my idle screw it doesn’t seem to make much of a difference. Since I fixed my choke plate I’ve had a hard time getting that high idle speed right. I apologize for throwing so much at you, I’ve got the original engine repair manual and another similar third party one but neither of them address my issues. I’ve removed the pulley for the smog system but left most of the hoses still attached since I don’t have a clue what’s critical and what’s not. Your video has helped me get an idea but I’ve still got hoses everywhere. In regards to fuel tank, it’s original and I have the same issue you has about the gauge not working once the tank is about 3/4 full. I’ll fix it one day but it’s not priority Sorry for the long reply.
@@ToyotaRN No problem and thanks for the detailed info. If the carb has never been rebuilt in it's whole life, I would suspect that is where your problem lies. It's 42 years old after all, and things can wear out, gaskets dry up, etc. Plus the fact that your choke plate was "glued open" by carbon & that you can't properly adjust the low or fast idle speeds, those aren't great signs of overall carb health. The vac hose you mentioned sounds like the choke pull-off. With the engine below full operating temp, the pull-off keeps the choke from closing too much when the vacuum drops down (engine speeds above idle). If it is inoperable, it too could contribute to a rich condition (too much fuel for conditions). The choke itself, when the engine is cold, blocks off all or most of the top opening (throat) of the carb. This make the air/fuel mixture richer, which cold engines need to run correctly. Once the engine starts to warm up, the "water choke", a thermostat at the back of the carb, slowly opens the choke as temp rises, until it is fully open at full engine operating temp.
If you look at that thermostat on the back of the carb, you should see some line markings on it, plus a single line marking on the carb side. It should be set right in the middle. if not, it's been monkeyed with by someone and is out of adjustment.
You said "I have noticed though is that when I adjust my idle screw it doesn’t seem to make much of a difference." This is interesting, IF you mean the mixture screw and not the actual low idle screw. It's important to know which is which here. Here is a link to a diagram that identifies all three screws (mixture, low idle, fast idle): www.autozone.com/diy/repair-guides/toyota-cressida-corona-crown-markii-1970-1982-repair-guide-carbureted-vehicles-repair-guide-p-0900c152800870d9
If you actually meant the mixture screw, that would indicate that your idle circuit is probably blocked, and the engine is trying to idle off the Main fuel circuit instead. That would certainly make it run rich. Given the carbon problem you mentioned, this could be very likely. Also as I said before, there could be "trash" in the fuel bowl, some of which is blocking off your idle jet. That's more likely to happen, as the idle jet opening is much smaller than the main jet opening, so it gets blocked easier by junk in the fuel. Have you changed your fuel filter lately?
What I would do if it were mine. Go get 2 cans of cheap carb spray cleaner. Take off the air cleaner, put paper towels around the base of the carb, and use 1 complete can to clean off the outside of the carb, and also spray down the throat. Let it sir for several hours to let all the spray cleaner evaporate. 2nd can of cleaner - Unplug & remove the Fuel Cutoff Solenoid from the carb. This is a cylinder shaped part on the passenger side of the carb with one wire going to it. Remove the Idle Mixture Screw completely. Doing this gives you access to the internal passages of the Idle Circuit. Remove the two bolts/plugs at the front bottom of the carb. This gives you access to the fuel bowl and the idle & main jets.
You can then "wash out" the fuel bowl with the spray cleaner, and also shoot some cleaner down the small brass tubes in the carb's throat. Those are bowl vent tubes and go straight to the bowl. Then use the "straw" that came with the carb spray cleaner. The idle & main jets are straight back in the carb from where the bolts were. You can shoot cleaner right into them to clean the jet openings.
Still using the "straw", shoot some cleaner into the fuel cutoff port and the hole where the mixture screw was. Fill up that idle circuit until it's full. Let sit 5 minutes, then blow out with compressed air in short blasts. If you don't have compressed air, just keep repeating the cycle of shooting more cleaner in there. Use up the whole can if you have to. When you're out of cleaner, let the carb sit for an hour or so, then re-install the bolts, mixture screw & cutoff solenoid.
I have never failed to unblock an idle circuit doing this. It looks complex in print, but it's actually not hard to do.
Second option is to buy a gallon can of carb cleaner, remove the whole carb and soak it overnight in the cleaner. Only problems with this is you really have to diagram out the vac hoses to get them back in the right places. And it may not remove all the "junk" from the inside.
Also, the above 2 options will not fix any worn or broken parts. For that even a rebuild won't get it done, but there is this: nationalcarburetors.com/Toyota-Hi-Lux-20R-22R-1978-21892367-CC_p_520.html
The throttle shaft bushing on my original carb were worn out & causing a big vac leak. National supplies rebuilt carbs with brand new hard parts like that, plus new solenoid, diaphragms, etc. Great value if you need to go that way.
I wouldn't worry too much about the smog system; it's probably not working anyway. Just make sure you don't have any vacuum leaks to any of it's vacuum operated components. Either new vac hose, or cap off ports to them with some quality silicone vac caps.
You have a broken resistance wire in your fuel sender. I have info/fixes for that too, just let me know when you need to know.
@@The13thSword so I got the courage and cleaned and rebuilt the carb completely. I’m now trying to determine what vacuum lines are actually needed vs what was apart of the original smog system (now decommissioned) I was trying to understand why you capped the Vacuum Port for Hot Idle? Does it not work separately from the original smog system? In addition, if I send you pictures or make a video can you tell me which ports I can cap? I’m using this video as a guide but I know there are still some places where I’m not sure what to do. Just let me know. Thanks again
@@ToyotaRN Good job on mustering up the courage to do your own carb rebuild. You don't need to run the Hot Idle Compensator Valve, as generally it is intended for vehicles with AC., and/or vehicles that are run in very hot climates. When coming to a stop, there is much less air flow through the engine compartment, and temps can rises above the normal 200F. Think of rush hour bumper-to-bumper traffic hardly moving. This can cause fuel percolation in the carb, making for an over-rich condition (higher fuel to air ratio). The valve is a metallic strip that deforms under a certain level of heat, and there is a "stopper" on it's end covering a hole in the carb body. That hole allows air to run thru a passage in the carb and exit below the lower throttle butterfly plates, leaning the air/fuel mixture out. The valve usually only gets a vacuum signal at conditions of high vacuum, such as at idle, and the valve will only open up at around 200F or higher.
I am in Central Florida and have had to capped off since doing the desmog, and haven't noticed any percolation problems at all, even in July or August. You can go ahead & run a vac line to it if you want to, instead of using a vac cap; I really don't think it's going to make much of a difference performance wise. The port for it is the lower of the two on the front of the carb, just below the throat opening.
I've run one vacuum line from the Dashpot (vacuum canister on the front of the carb that is connected to a linkage system) to a ported vacuum source. I used the middle vac port directly below the Idle Mixture Screw. There is an angled port to the right of that one; that one I use for the vacuum advance for the distributor.
The only other vacuum lines I run is to the Fuel Vapor Canister, which the only part of the old smog system that I kept. It traps and fuel vapor from the tank return line and from the vapor return line from the carb. Any fuel vapor it traps gets sucked out thru a vacuum line to the port to the left of the Dashpot port described above, and the fuel vapor is burned off in the engine at startup. Some people totally eliminate the Vapor Canister, but if that is done, you'll need to cap off the vapor return port on top of the fuel bowl, and either cap or install a filter on the tank return line. If you cap the tank return line, you need to make sure your have a fully functional vented gas cap for pressure relief.
If you still need more info you can make & post a video to UA-cam if you wish. If you want to send pics, you can send them to me thru Yotatech, which is a Toyota truck forum (yotatech.com). You'll have to make an account but it's free, then just search for members to find me & send a PM. My tag on Yotatech is 13Swords.
Wow dude , mines been having trouble with starting while it's warm, smells like it's flooding
If you go to start it when it's warm, have you tried holding the gas pedal to the floor then cranking the engine over? Try that and if it starts much easier than usual, you definitely have a "flooding" problem. What that does is open the carburetor butterfly valve fully open, allowing the maximum amount of air in. This can make a "flooding" or over-rich condition (too much gas) something more in line with the fuel/air mixture ratios it should be.
In any case, this is almost always caused by a malfunctioning carburetor. The carbs on the 20R engine are quite good, but like any other carb they have parts & gaskets that are subject to wear, which can mess up your fuel/air mix ratio. There can also be "junk" inside the carb, clogging up some very small passages, especially the idle circuits.
Best advice is to have the carb professionally rebuilt, or buy another carb that's already been rebuilt & tuned. I did the later & got one from National Carb (nationalcarburetors.com/). I highly recommend them, even though I am not sponsored by them.
If I can help with anything else let me know, just make sure you give me specific info.
@@The13thSword wow 👏 this is amazing dude , what a thorough reply . Dude i can't thank you enough. I am currently living in this truck and it can be worrisome when things aren't right . Cool I'll check that website for the carbs thank you so much dude. The other problem that I'm having with the truck is at higher rims like right before its time to shift it makes a hum like buzzing sound that increases as my rpms keep increasing and then when i shift and let out the clutch and my rpms drop the noise stops. And when I get on the hwy and get to 5th gear I can kinda hear it when I'm driving but I don't go above 65 atm I was looking for information and was going to check out the fan and belts, they both need work or replacement. I just bought this truck from a lady who let it sit at her vacation home so people would think someone was home so it sat in her driveway under a pine tree for awhile , but she was the second owner, bought it in 79 from a college student whose dad bought it for her brand new , it was neat to sea the owners manual looking new and some of the Japanese paperwork still in the plastic. Anyways always cool to talk about the truck man. People stop me all the time an just have a passion for the toyotas of the past . It's cool . Wel thanks dude God bless
@@The13thSword dude I just tried it and it fired right up! Then another problem happened rpms were low when I got to a stop and when I took off, I between shift it let put a bunch of smoke and seemed like it almost back fired. Then now I stopped turned it off and it fired right up, I actually seems high now. So im going to check that screw you had mentioned on the carb so it doesn't slam closed that Last 5 percent
@@timothy2935 You are most welcome. I've amassed a pretty fair amount of knowledge about the '75 to '78 trucks, and I know it can be hard to find on the web, so I don't mind sharing it where it will help.
The belts are fairly cheap and available in most part stores and aren't too hard to change out. They are one of the "reliability" items that you should change at the first sign of any major wear, cracking, etc. No sense getting stranded over an $8 belt, especially id it's the alternator belt. yikes.
Certain RPM noise - what causes it depends on if you can narrow down the area it's coming from. You mentioned the belts & fan so I assume it's coming from the front? We'll start there.
As for the fan, it's rare, but sometimes the fan clutch can wear out & make noise at certain RPM's. That's the metal part mounted to the front of the fan. It allows the fan to disengage from being fully driven when temps are below certain levels, and engage the fan when things get hot, to move more air over the radiator. Test: on a non-running engine (can be totally cold) spin the fan by hand with some speed. You should feel some resistance to turning it. If you feel no resistance at all, or if the fan turns 5 or more complete revolutions, it's likely the fan clutch is bad.
As long as you are up front, grab the fan by the back of it, where it connects with the shaft coming out of the water pump, & try to wiggle it up & down and side to side. You shouldn't see any movement. If you do see movement that is more than just noticeable, the water pump bearing could be going bad. Those can sometimes make noises only at certain RPM's.
Other things it could be? Clutch out of adjustment, clutch throwout bearing going bad, weak finger springs on the clutch disc, worn out clutch disc material. If the noise is actually more in the area of the firewall, or where the engine & trans bolt together, and the clutch is old (say 80K miles or more) I'd suspect the throwout bearing. Those have been known to only make noise at certain RPM's when they get worn.
On vehicles that have been sitting, You said you just bought it so I assume you have done too much to it. And if you've been running today's regular ethanol gasoline, that could also cause your "flooding" problem. The old rubber gas lines weren't made to handle methanol, & with age they can & will shed rubber particles off on the INSIDES of the hoses. If your fuel filter doesn't catch these, they can easily clog up your small passages in the carb. I had this problem; the idle circuit was clogged with tiny black rubber particles, truck would hardly idle & ran "rich". It was trying to run only on the Main Jet circuit of the carb, which are larger opening, which allows more fuel to pass.
I know it's kinda a pain in the butt & could take several hours or the whole day, but get some new rubber fuel line & replace it all, plus put a new fuel filter on it. I also recommend new hose clamps to prevent leaks.
BTW, DON'T run any Seafoam thru the fuel system thinking it might solve the problem; if you still have the old fuel hoses on there it could just make things worse. That stuff is known to loosen up even more stuff, & you don't need that reaching your carb.
I see you have another message so will go to that next.
@@timothy2935 That confirms that the engine is getting too much fuel, so it is most likely a carb issue. The smoke & almost backfiring is also a sign that there is too much fuel going to the engine. The smoke, backfiring or popping is unburned fuel coming out of the engine on the exhaust side. That proves it's getting too much fuel and can't burn it all on ignition. Backfiring or popping happens when the hot exhaust with extra fuel vapor in it get towards the end of the exhaust pipe, finds some extra oxygen in the outside air, and spontaneously combusts. The bunch of dark smoke is that unburned fuel.
There's no need to mess with the Dashpot screw; it won't help if you're running rich like that. The carb sounds like it's the main issue, as it's what controls the fuel/air mixtures. Unless you get that mixture right, no other carb adjustment is going to help the situation.
If you want to check that the Dashpot is in adjustment (it should be), run the engine, rev it a bit then let go, watching the Dashpot lever system where it makes contact with the adjusting screw. You should see it "catch" just near the bottom of it's travel, then completely "bottom out". All this happens in less than a second & is all you need with a properly running engine.
Afterthought - When the engine is completely warmed up, are the choke plates on top of the carb open? They should be when hot. When cold, one push of the gas pedal to the flor & releasing it should close the choke plates completely.
Just thinking that if your choke plates are always stuck closed for some reason, that would also make the carb "rich". They wouldn't let enough air in for hot running. That's why I asked you to hold the pedal to the floor, to manually hold the choke plates open, & let me air in when hot.
And since you said it's been sitting, sometimes carb linkages can get stuck or gummed up & not work right.
If you have any spray carb cleaner around you could try spraying down all the outside linkages to make sure they are clean.
Thanks for the video. I am having trouble getting a smooth idle. When I go to set the throttle positioner either goes 1300 or 600. FSM says to set it at 1050, then do the lean idle mixture procedure. Do you have any clues?
If by "throttle positioner" you mean the Idle Adjustment Screw I do have some ideas. First thing that comes to mind is that you should only try to set idle speed when the engine is at full hot operating temperature. The reason for this is that the choke mechanism is mechanically connected to the throttle, and if the engine isn't up to full temp, the choke may be trying to keep the engine at high idle for warm up purposes. There are several "steps" on the part that the Idle Adjustment Screw can contact, and it may be contacting one of the "higher" idle steps sometimes, other times the "correct" hot idle "step".
Looking at your speed numbers, they are not correct (according to my sources), but would indicate to me that this is what is happening. The difference between the 2 numbers is correct. The spec I have on hand for the '78 20R is "Hot" idle speed 800-850, High (cold) idle speed 1600-1650.
If you are trying to adjust with the engine at full hot temp, then you have a "sticky" throttle linkage on the carb. Meaning there may be some dirt/dried fuel residue "gumming up" the linkage and making it bind up. You may want to try spraying down the entire linkage with carb cleaner & letting it thoroughly air dry then try to set it again.
Beyond this, there are several other things that could cause this. Worn, bent or damaged throttle linkage parts from pedal to carb, damaged or missing parts on carb, vacuum leak(s), carb itself worn (most common issue being worn out throttle shaft bushing causing a hard to find vacuum leak), bad carb gaskets, out of adjustment or bad choke mechanism (not too common).
Just start with the basic stuff, like making sure the carb & linkages are clean & that it's up to full temp before trying to adjust. 8 times out of 10 it's the small, simple things.
thanks so much. By throttle posistioner, I am referring to the screw on the far right (looking from the passenger side of engine in) that is a bit underneath and the screw adjusts the throttle/butterfly on primary side). Since I wrote you, my brother and I decided to rebuild the carb. we are almost done. We are also going to check all the throttle linkage and make sure it is smooth. We did find a couple of small ports clogged and got some grim off the linkage springs. We will see. We will continue to troubleshoot per your tips!! You are awesome.
@@MichaeleLaForge Oh that one. That adjustment screw has very little to to nothing to do with idle speed in normal conditions. It adjusts the "Dashpot", which is the common term for that item; Toyota calls it a "Throttle Positioner". IF you can put that screw back on the setting it originally was that would be best.
The Throttle Positioner is connected to a vacuum diaphragm that controls it's movement. It's purpose is to cushion the throttle from slamming shut when you completely remove your foot from the gas pedal. It basically "catches" the throttle linkage near the bottom of it's travel and lets it settle to the full closed position smoothly. All this happens in less than a second. Also, if you've run that screw IN a bit or a bunch more than it should be, it could be affecting your idle speed.
If you end up having to do an adjustment on it after your rebuild, it's going to be a more-or-less trail and error thing. A good baseline setting though is as follows. Engine not running, choke plates OPEN, Idle Screw on low idle cam. Turn the Throttle Positioner screw OUT until it no longer makes contact with it's linkage arm. By this I mean it just barely doesn't contact the arm Then turn the screw back in 1/2 turn.
Start & warm up the engine to full temp, make sure choke plates are fully open & idle screw is on the low idle cam. Rev the engine a bit and then completely let go if the throttle (you can do this under the hood). Watch the Throttle Positioner arm where it contacts the screw & listen carefully There should just be a slight delay in it settling down to normal low idle. This delay will literally be like 1/2 a second or so. If the delay is longer than that, back the screw out a little at a time, like 1/4 turn, then rev, watch & listen again. Adjust until you get about that 1/2 second delay.
You could also get lucky and see by discoloration just where on the screw it was set. Where it was inside the threads will be cleaner looking than the rest of the screw's threads.
Once you get that set, go back & set your Idle Speed screw to the left side of the carb, passenger side.
One other thing, in case your carb rebuild kit didn't mention it. Baseline setting for the Idle Mixture Screw (passenger side, low center of carb location). Run the screw in CAREFULLY using only light finger pressure on the screwdriver, until it just stops.
DO NOT TIGHTEN IT DOWN OR YOU WILL DAMAGE THE SCREW & NEVER BE ABLE TO GET A GOOD IDLE QUALITY.
Once you have the screw in that position, turn it back out 1 & 1/2 to 2 turns. That should give you a good mixture setting to start with and get the engine running.
You can further adjust it afterward for fine tuning. If you need info on this just let me know.
@@The13thSword Success! The carb rebuild definitely helped the performance but idle still tough. So I actually read your post on a forum. Your comment about the dashpot and the quick back to idle after flicking accelertor. You said it would go back to 800 ina couple of seconds. That got me really thinking about the dashpot and what it does. I tested it per fsm and it turned out that the vacuum switching valve was bad and it was not getting any vacuum.
I went thru the set up per manual and what you advised and now I have a stable idle at 800, 8 degrees before TDC. So 😊. now I will go to Cali smog test.
@@MichaeleLaForge Excellent work. As long as the Dashpot has an engine vacuum source it will work the way it's supposed to. Hopefully you won't have any problems passing smog. Even with some or all of the "smog" equipment not working, these engines, when in proper tune, & a good state of repair, still run very clean. Also due to the age of the truck, they really don't know what smog equipment is supposed to be there so you'll likely pass the visual inspection without issue.
You haven't mentioned it & you may have already done this, but you may want to do a valve adjustment to make sure they are in spec. It can make a big difference in smog test readings.
Pro Tip: I know the FSM says to adjust the valves with the engine totally hot, but it can be done properly (and more easily & safely) when cold. I set the valves 2 thousandths above the spec.
Spec is Intake .008", exhaust .012", so I set them cold at .010" & .014". Once the engine heats up all the metal parts expand a bit & the clearance goes right to spec. I've tested this several times and the clearance is always spot on spec at full temp.
Let me know how things go.
Buenas noches disculpe usted sabe cuantas vuelta son para el tornillo de la mezcla y el tornillo de ralenti para este mismo carburador saludos
Traducción vía Google translate, ya que no hablo español. Como ajuste inicial para el tornillo inactivo, debe ser de una a una vuelta y media. Debería poder ver cuando la punta del tornillo hace contacto con el brazo del acelerador. Debe haber un ligero contacto entre estas dos partes. Para un ajuste de "funcionamiento", ajústelo hasta que obtenga la velocidad de ralentí correcta, que está entre 800 y 850 RPM en ralentí, con el motor a la temperatura máxima de funcionamiento. Necesitará un tacómetro para configurar esta velocidad de ralentí con precisión, o sin un tacómetro, puede configurarlo "de oído". Si tienes la habilidad. Al menos puede acercar la velocidad a lo que debería ser.
El tornillo de mezcla inactivo debe girar hacia la derecha hasta que se detenga. NO apriete demasiado el tornillo, ya que puede dañarlo y causar problemas. Simplemente gírelo hacia la derecha hasta que sienta que quiere detenerse. Tenga cuidado con el destornillador y no ejerza mucha fuerza sobre él.
El tornillo de mezcla inactivo debe girarse hacia la izquierda entre una vuelta y media a una vuelta y tres cuartos. Esta es una configuración de "línea de base" solamente, pero debería funcionar en la mayoría de los casos, si todas las demás cosas y el motor están funcionando correctamente.
Con el motor en marcha y completamente calentado, puede ajustar la mezcla inactiva si lo desea. Gire el tornillo de mezcla hacia la derecha un cuarto de vuelta a la vez y escuche la calidad del sonido de los motores inactivos. Tan pronto como el sonido cambie de suave a un poco áspero, deténgase. Luego, gire el tornillo hacia la izquierda un cuarto de vuelta a la vez hasta que el sonido inactivo sea suave. Si todo está bien con el carburador, el tornillo debe estar en algún lugar entre el ajuste de una vuelta y media a uno y tres cuartos de vuelta. Una vez que tenga la calidad de ralentí más suave posible, vuelva atrás y vuelva a verificar la velocidad de ralentí.
Esto es lo mejor que pude hacer por ti. Pido disculpas por cualquier problema con la traducción de Google.
@@The13thSword A man of the people helps those not in his native tongue! thank you for these videos king.
@@carlos_andres_ Traducido por Google. Usted es muy bienvenido señor. Pero yo no soy un rey, solo un hombre como tú. Necesitamos ayudarnos unos a otros por un mundo mejor. Me alegro haberte sido de ayuda.
@@The13thSword haha of course not. It’s a saying the youngsters apply now - basically it means that you are a good man 👍 I’m restoring my 1980 hilux and your videos have been helpful.
@@carlos_andres_ Again, many thanks for the recognition, & I am glad that my videos have been a help to you. That was always my intent with posting this vids. If I can help further in any way just let me know.
Im stuck on my 20r anyway I can email/text you?
An email address has been added to the "about" section of my channel. Please be aware that I only check email once a day on a regular basis.