Ok, 07 2.5 wabbit 5spd stick. 2ndary air pump is running like a vacuum full-time. I found the hoses to the pump compromised, replaced both hoses. Replaced pump, replaced solenoid valve, and swapped the 100amp fuses to see if that was the issue. I even replaced the MAP sensor under the throttle body. I cleaned the throttle body while I was at it. I have looked for this SAI sensor but have never found it, it's supposed to be on one of the tubes, but there's nothing. Also, I am the one and only owner. I did find a video about the SAI and MAP sensors being physically identical. However, they are not one has to be sure that the right part number is in the right location. Any help with this situation is greatly appreciated.
@@thecrittergitter7576 I am guessing you still have the same code after replacing all the above components? You are correct, this vehicle should be equipped with an Air Pump Pressure Sensor. Subscribe to Alldatadiy, it’s only 19 dollars for a year. You should be able to get a system diagram there. It helps a lot!
@@pierrerepair86 since I replaced all those components I don't have a code and have had a code since. I was recently watching a yt video about my F-150 truck about something totally different, but got my mind wondering. If the pump itself in the connector might be pinned wrong causing constant power? I am going to check out that website for a wiring diagram. Thanks for your help.
Nice video! I’m surprised that the secondary air pump said “made in America”, I didn’t think any VW OEM or aftermarket parts were made here. Also, did you consider just using epoxy to fix the air pump housing crack?
Most of the action is underneath the car. I used a u-joint to remove a bolt that was hard to get to. Sorry that I don't have the air pump removal video.
Any hints on how to replace the solenoid/crossover valve/switch that sends vacuum to the combi valve (repurposed EGR)? On a ca. 2000 VW/Audi 1.8T, it hangs under the intake manifold and is a bear to get to. My air pump and combi valve pass the air flow test, and I have one more test to confirm this, but I believe I am not getting vacuum from the small switch valve.
That will cause your check engine light to turn ON. Your catalytic converter will not reach operating temperature quick enough therefore, closed loop operation will be delayed.
I'm trying to replace my air pump for my 07 VW Rabbit, how difficult is it to remove the air pump? I saw other videos where they used a large wrench extender and came from it from the other side of the engine just to remove the nuts on it from the back side of air pump, is that true? What size socket did you use?
I have same code 1. Replaced SAI sensor 2. Diagnosis hoses no air leak 3. Replaced combination valve 4. Pump was leaking air so resealed with gasket maker . 5 .relays and fuses working fine. After clear codes i drive 2 days about 20 miles no light . But this morning again pop up same shit 🤷🏻♂️🥴 i fed up to fix this no clue what’s going on . 😟 Now i am going Replace engine air filter & Air pump again. 😢
Sometimes it helps to go back to the basics. Monitor data from your scanner to see what the computer system does not like. I wouldn't replace anything until I confirm proper air flow from the flow sensor.
@@Our_America The air pump is not ON at all times, but should be ON at cold startups. You can try to activate with a scanner or bring power and ground to it.
@@pierrerepair86 but when i tested power supply last time with led bulb. It was lights up even engine was warm. It have joint in connector last time it was loose. Probably the same joint is loose again. Thanks
Nice diagnosis twin
Thanks man. Going to the garage to spray some soap on my 08 Rabbit.
Let me know if it helps. If you need help, leave me a comment.
Nice man best video I have seen for this code
A mechanics approach.
Ok, 07 2.5 wabbit 5spd stick.
2ndary air pump is running like a vacuum full-time.
I found the hoses to the pump compromised, replaced both hoses.
Replaced pump, replaced solenoid valve, and swapped the 100amp fuses to see if that was the issue. I even replaced the MAP sensor under the throttle body. I cleaned the throttle body while I was at it.
I have looked for this SAI sensor but have never found it, it's supposed to be on one of the tubes, but there's nothing. Also, I am the one and only owner.
I did find a video about the SAI and MAP sensors being physically identical. However, they are not one has to be sure that the right part number is in the right location.
Any help with this situation is greatly appreciated.
Sorry for the late response. Please let me know if you still need help. I’ve been working in the field a lot in the past few months.
@@pierrerepair86 I have never fixed this issue...yet.
@@thecrittergitter7576 I am guessing you still have the same code after replacing all the above components?
You are correct, this vehicle should be equipped with an Air Pump Pressure Sensor. Subscribe to Alldatadiy, it’s only 19 dollars for a year. You should be able to get a system diagram there. It helps a lot!
@@pierrerepair86 since I replaced all those components I don't have a code and have had a code since.
I was recently watching a yt video about my F-150 truck about something totally different, but got my mind wondering. If the pump itself in the connector might be pinned wrong causing constant power?
I am going to check out that website for a wiring diagram.
Thanks for your help.
@@thecrittergitter7576 I am not sure if you checked the relay; it might be stuck closed. Let me know what you find.
Nice video! I’m surprised that the secondary air pump said “made in America”, I didn’t think any VW OEM or aftermarket parts were made here. Also, did you consider just using epoxy to fix the air pump housing crack?
Thank You. I was surprised as well. Good point, I actually didn't think of epoxy haha. Please subscribe if you haven't already.
I wish if you showed how you took the air pump out .
I thought about it, but the video would have been a little too long.
@pierrerepair86 you got the rest of the video I need change my pump 😢
Most of the action is underneath the car. I used a u-joint to remove a bolt that was hard to get to. Sorry that I don't have the air pump removal video.
Mine secondary air injection was short to ground and of course it’s and Audi 4.2
Interesting! Was that a peeled wire?
Any hints on how to replace the solenoid/crossover valve/switch that sends vacuum to the combi valve (repurposed EGR)? On a ca. 2000 VW/Audi 1.8T, it hangs under the intake manifold and is a bear to get to.
My air pump and combi valve pass the air flow test, and I have one more test to confirm this, but I believe I am not getting vacuum from the small switch valve.
All Data Diy is a good resource you can use for instructions. Unfortunately, I have not replaced one of those yet.
In my car most of the symptoms were causing short to ground no parts were never replaced
Hmm! Good. Did you find it yourself?
What problems can. Secondary air pump cause
That will cause your check engine light to turn ON. Your catalytic converter will not reach operating temperature quick enough therefore, closed loop operation will be delayed.
@@pierrerepair86 estando dañada esta parte el vehículo ara falla de que se acelere???
@@manuelllanas.777 No.
I'm trying to replace my air pump for my 07 VW Rabbit, how difficult is it to remove the air pump? I saw other videos where they used a large wrench extender and came from it from the other side of the engine just to remove the nuts on it from the back side of air pump, is that true? What size socket did you use?
I’m sorry for the late response. I’ve been on the road a lot. Were you able to remove the air pump?
I have same code 1. Replaced SAI sensor
2. Diagnosis hoses no air leak
3. Replaced combination valve
4. Pump was leaking air so resealed with gasket maker .
5 .relays and fuses working fine.
After clear codes i drive 2 days about 20 miles no light . But this morning again pop up same shit 🤷🏻♂️🥴 i fed up to fix this no clue what’s going on . 😟
Now i am going Replace engine air filter & Air pump again. 😢
Sometimes it helps to go back to the basics. Monitor data from your scanner to see what the computer system does not like. I wouldn't replace anything until I confirm proper air flow from the flow sensor.
@@pierrerepair86 today i open the air pipe there is no air flowing while engine run. Probably pump dead or harness loose.
@@Our_America The air pump is not ON at all times, but should be ON at cold startups. You can try to activate with a scanner or bring power and ground to it.
@@pierrerepair86 but when i tested power supply last time with led bulb. It was lights up even engine was warm. It have joint in connector last time it was loose. Probably the same joint is loose again. Thanks
what was the name of the airpump you purchased
I don’t recall, but I got a genuine one from FCP Euro.
How come this took my mechanic 3 days and cost $2000 lmao
Well, at least it’s fixed? Please subscribe if you haven’t already.
Murica....lol
Kyle, please subscribe if you haven't already. Thank You!