I'm really sorry guys, this one looks good, we had some audio/video sync issues, thanks for your patience. This was the third time uploading this, sorry for blowing up your inbox. Don't forget about the merchandise teespring.com/stores/scannerdanner-2 where all proceeds are being donated to charity.
Also on Fords those numbers on the fuse panel are not just random numbers, if you go in the owners manual, they tell you the meaning of each number, for example let’s say somewhere on the fuse lid says number 28, in the owners manual it should say that number 28 is a 15 amp headlight fuse. And I know that’s true for my 12 Ford Fusion, I think it should be the same for older fusions. I hope this is helpful.
No questioning your ability here,,,, I spent 32 yrs in the trade and now semi retired and no longer sling wrenches I find myself frequently re- referencing your book and the need to keep my mind knowledgeable of my trade passed by following along with you watching your video's, like anything if you don't use it, you will lose it and I might need to dust of my skill someday. So thank you sir, you truly have a Gift and you are a fantastic Teacher.
I can't tell you how much I appreciate watching you think on your feet. I follow along, then pause the video intermittently and ask myself what I'd do next. Simply brilliant education.
I watched the original video you put up this morning. It was a awesome video that is gonna help me out a lot being I have the same codes but for both banks 1 & 2 on a VW 2.8L V6. I noticed the audio wasn’t synced with the video but I just thought it was my iPad lol. Paul i always learn a lot from your videos. I wish I was in the Pitt area and was able to spend a day with you and your brother at his shop, You guys are both dam good techs. Keep up the good work
You know if I play favorite channels....🤔 you are number 1 ! I always wanted to go to tech school and life got in the way! I had kids early and had to work alot! Lol. In close you have helped an old mans dream come true!!
Your the of teacher i would travel across the world to learn from and im actually thinking about it. IM THINKING REAL HARD ABOUT IT so dont be suprise if you see me in a few years. I want to learn from the best!!!
Thanks for the information. Was able to verify that the air pump wasn't pumping. Took it apart, found water in it, manually spun the fan impeller, put it back together, now it works. MIL is off and hasn't come back.
i watched the first was it was awesome. It was good to see you when you amazed yourself working on a new unfamiliar engine. thats what its all about. great job brother...Jay
So I am working on a 2008 Ford Fusion with this exact issue. The car idles terrible until it warms up. I watched this video first. And I watched it over and over again, and Paul is such a great teacher, I followed along and took notes and now am going to the car to properly diagnose what is wrong with it. Thank you Paul for your knowledge and great teaching ability.
@@ScannerDanner This car will start up fine, within a few seconds the idles drops, almost causing the car to stall. I started diagnosing the way that I learned from you and can't get the pump to turn on. I'm not sure if the motor is burned up or if I should try to change the relay. I am getting a P2258 code.
Did this symptom occur the same time as the check engine light and that code? I don't think this secondary air code is causing that. Separate issue imo
@@ScannerDanner I'm not sure. Someone brought the car to me to have some other work done and they said that a shop told them they had a bad air pump. that shop told them about the code. I verified the code. The symptoms have been occurring for the customer for a while now. No other codes are coming up. Maybe throttle body is dirty? I am going to check the pump today, but if it is bad, you don't think that is why it drops in idle and runs bad? After it warms up, it seems to run fine.
I just diag'd a 2009 VW Rabbit P0491 code the other day. Never worked on one or diagnosed one. Thanks to SD Premium I diagnosed it in no time. In my VW case I had bidirectional control of the pump and the diverter valve and I found the pump not running. Went to the relay and had no ground through the pump. Up on the lift, unplug the pump connector and use the AESWave kit to connect my high amp test light to the pump connector with a bidirectional control, and diag was done. Bad pump. I did check the other components to make sure there wasn't another problem but once you know the basics it doesn't matter what you're working on. Such good stuff here and on SD Premium!
The pumps often fail due to the diverter valve leaking exhaust gasses to the pump where water vapors condense and ruin the pump. Make sure the valve isn't leaking. It's best to just replace it so you're not replacing it and another pump in the near future.
@@fascistpedant758 Yeah, good tip. I checked the diverter valve for leaks and had none. I used a rubber glove on the pump side of the valve and ran the engine. In this case, the motor had a bad rubber seal and water got into the motor side of the pump.
The disassembly segment would make a great reference video. Seeing how it's designed and how it works is extremely useful information if you want to try to service the valve. I tend to trust that you actually heard it open and close. Could the rubber flap of the check valve have stuck to it's mating surface enough to hold the 1-2 psi from the blower? Now that we know how it's built, it would be nice to be able to go back and take another shot at fixing it. A little cleaning and lube through the output port, and a shot of shop air through the input port to un-stick it might have done the trick. I'm sure this video will be very useful to many people. Thanks for sharing. p.s. If you delete this comment again, the next one will be even longer! LOL
Want someone who takes parts apart to see how they work? We should have Paul send all his old parts to Canada to @Junkfromwork who's got his own channel. Good fun Canadian tech. I haven't heard it yet but Paul said "Computer Controlled Solenoid" so since everything in the automotive industry has abbreviations why don't we just call it the "CCS" from here on out so I can be even more confused when looking at diagrams, etc... 😂😅😂😅 Can I take credit for coining the phrase ➡ CCS ⬅ ❓❓ Great video Paul as always!
@@fascistpedant758 NP. I think he has a livestream going right now or did awhile ago. I was suppose to stop by and discuss something with him but he had enough on so I sat today out. It wasn't a set thing but told him other day I may swing by.
Paul,good video and thanks for fixing. The first was a little tough but I stuck it out. Actually in parts it was quite funny. Thanks again. Thought at first it was the coffee I was drinking Lol 👍👍👍
Great learning video, enjoyed it, even if you couldn't find what actually happened to the old/bad valve. You would've thought it would have been obvious. Don't worry about the 'Blowing up our inbox', we all know how things never go as planned. ;) Thanks again!
ON FORD U COULD COMMAND THE AIR PUMP ON WITH SCANNER EVEN IF THERE IS NOT BIDIRECTIONAL OPTION , BY DOING KOEO CODE TEST IT WILL COMMAND THE AIR PUMP ON AND ALSO WILL RUN MONITOR ON SOME AS WELL , I LOVE YOUR VIDEOS AND I AM A MEMBER OF YOUR PREMIUM ON YOUR WEBSITE FOR A MONTH AND WHAT YOU TEACH IS SOMETHING I WAS LOOKING FOR FOR LONG TIME , BECAUSE U NOT JUST READING BOOKS AND TEACHING BOOKS U ALSO SHOWING IT IN REAL WORLD WITCH MAKES IT MORE FUN AND EASY FOR US TO UNDERSTAND WHAT ARE TALKING ABOUT , THANKS AGAIN
This guy is top notch. All need a buddy as he. Ive just ordered my parts. ******************** Order for a mercury Milan vs a ford fusion and your cost will be half or at least a-lot less. Same part $75 vs $160 . Same part#s same w Lincoln mkz as well.
I appreciate you took the time to open up the valve and check out the inside,I'm always curious to find out if we can see the failure. You've proven several times throughout the video what failed, so solid diagnostic there! 👍 It looks like Ford is selling the valve and solenoid as an assembly, that should make some technicians happy since they don't have to prove which component failed. 😁 I personally watch your channel because I want to learn how the system works. I'm actually surprised that the Verus doesn't have a secondary air pump activation, they're usually solid on domestics! I would've definitely tried another scanner,I'm pretty sure it would've had a secondary air pump activation test, they are very common and it would've saved a technician a lot of time and extra work! I'm sure you could've done that, but it's no fun for you not having to show us the diagram,activate relays etc...you love that kind of stuff! 😁👍 I would've liked to see the O2s react to the scan tool activation of the pump, but I've seen that live on a car and they show lean like they should! Thanks again, great video! 👍👍👍
What an awesome video! I just learned a great deal about finding direction with an unfamiliar system from this one! The bonus footage at the end was super awesome too! Danner.........you're awesome with everything that you do! Great job once again and thank you for another gold quality video! Your perfectionism really pays off for us viewers! We learn a butt load just from your UA-cam videos so don't be so hard on yourself all the time lol! So thank you again sir and can't wait to see ya on the next one!
Am I too hard on myself? I think wanting that moment for you guys that is down to the exact point of failure and then not getting it l(ike on this one) is always disappointing to me and that maybe is what you see?
@@ScannerDanner Well yes, of course that's what I saw in this video. And I totally get it because if I'm honest.......I'm the same exact way LOL! I knew what it was you wanted to show by the end, and although you couldn't get any "hard" evidence.......you remained totally transparent and still included that footage in this video for us! From what we see, that allowed this whole process to be 100 percent realistic and authentic because we understand you won't always get the evidence that you want with every repair! Sometimes things end up kinda weird, and yes sometimes people will be confused because you couldn't verify a fault with hard evidence! Totally relatable! And we also understand it perfectly from your point of view because you are a teacher and you want us to understand every individual diagnosis comprehensively as we follow the journey with you! When I said don't be so hard on yourself.....I meant don't feel like a failure of any sort due to this fact, or due to your content quality, or anything of the sort! I can vouch for everyone here that watches and LEARNS from your content..........they would NOT want you to change a single thing you're doing! I personally just don't want you to beat yourself up TOO much, that's all! Don't get discouraged whatsoever............because most of us "get it". We get what you were trying to do.....or show us! I mean seriously, you're a godsend when it comes to teaching others in this field! So keep up the good work and there's no words that could describe the amount of thanks we have for all of you and Caleb's hard work and contributions to us aspiring technicians, especially nowadays! For those who don't "get it" from this video.....well.......they will if they keep watching ya! Or subscribe to SD Premium! So that's what I meant when I said don't be so hard on yourself (even though I'm not one to talk because I'm the same way). You always do a perfect job! Thank you and your son Caleb very much! =]
@@ScannerDanner Haha no worries! You deserve more encouraging feedback like this every time from everyone who watches and takes in the free comprehensive information you give out every video! The very least we can do is give credit where credit is due and we owe it to you to LEARN everything you make an effort to teach, even if one should rewatch the video several times! You've earned it for yourself after all! See ya on the next one and thanks again Danner! =]
Finally got time to watch this one - been in my inbox for too long! Don't you just love Ford fuse boxes? Even my '86 Grand Marquis isn't labeled. I took a paint pen and labeled them all myself on the backside of the plastic cover under the steering wheel. 😂 Stupid Fords! 🤬 All these failure-prone emission bandaids will keep us eating well for the foreseeable future, at least! 😁 Great vid as always! 👍🍻 Poor May! I haven't whacked a finger that good in 25 years. Back when I was working in a plastic factory, I was running a machine that stamped out and glued foam liners in plastic caps. There was a wheel under tremendous spring tension that I had fully extended to change to a new roll of tape ... and the SOB tipped over the center point without my seeing it, and slammed down on my ring finger. Thought I lost the tip of my finger at first - went totally numb. When I looked at my fingernail, it was GREEN! Turned black just like May's with time. Boy did that HURT!! Think it took almost 3 months for the nail to completely replace itself.
No I don’t question it whether it fixed the problem or not cause I trust that you got it fixed and if not no big deal it’s a Ford (what is the problem). But I have questions 1) instead of jumper wire can you use an older wire tester? Non LED light 2) when taking apart the valve could have been carbon buildup making it not work properly? Thank you love the videos even here on vacation in the Philippines
This video reminds me of my younger days of working at the Cadillac dealership. The early 2000’s Deville’s and Seville’s were PLAUGED with Secondary AIR system problems.
Great show! When Vac is Applied and solenoid is energized the the orange end is pulled away from the Reed valve allowing flow through when solenoid is De-energized the spring will hold the reed valves shut to prevent Exhaust gas from running back to the air box . Correct?
spring was fine, it was there to push the "disc check valve" shut, until he put it back on reversed. the metal and rubber disc tend to get sticky and gum up together into a stuck mess. same thing happens on systems with only check valves, maybe a hose/pump leak allowed salt/water/contamination to get into there, alternate the pump could be weak or a hose leak and not enough pressure to open the disc
Hello Sir! I enjoy your channel a great deal and it has helped me understand the basics of diagnosing problems. Quick question, would you have a discount code or some kind of promo for people with a fixed income? I'm disabled and don't have much extra but would love to read your book! Thanks again and keep up the good work!
Great video. I plan on ordering your book next week. I believe on your Snap On scanner the bidirectional control for the air pump relay is under Out Put Controls, am I wrong on this?
I had a high school algebra teacher that would freak out if numbers were not pronounced correctly. Like Mr. Danner said at the start of the video. He pronounced the year as two thousand and nine. My teacher would get mad and say you just said 2000.9 not 2009. It is pronounced two thousand nine. After all these years it still with me.
had one like that also, luckily only for "study hall" and not math which I took advanced class earlier in the day. anyway the fella would go total nuts if there was the tinniest speck of paper on the desks or floor anywhere, like spiral bound notebooks sheets ripped out leaving pieces falling all over and the jagged edge on the paper, lookout all hell would break loose! one time someone dumped a giant amount of shredded paper/confetti in the room, he left and he wasn't seen for two weeks, either mental breakdown or vacation, I never messed with the guy and figured some form of OCD or PTSD who knows, wasn't any of my business :)
Hey Dan I have a 2007 Fusion and would like to know what are those two sensors with the black and blue connectors by the exhaust manifold? One of them has to be the Upstream O2 sensor but what's the other one and which is wich? Thank you and take care.
Another great video. I listened to the remarkable results podcast with you in it today and you 4 guys did an amazing job discussing the pros and cons of youtube. Secondly, I kept seeing the autel case next to the car. I assume you tried using the autel for bidirectional control? I've had slightly better luck with the autel and bidirectional controls than I have with the snap on lately.
I figure the diaphragm shaft was seized in the housing (steel and aluminum created galvanic corrosion and seized the shaft). Possibly it could have been freed by applying a higher vacuum to the diaphragm than the 15"Hg the engine was producing. It looks like that thin spring was added as an extra precaution to keep exhaust gases from backwashing into the air inlet tube, where it would burn the hoses and air pump.
Just for some good insight I use a relay test jumpers kit #69300 for testing they are awesome to test the relay and inputs and out puts all at the same time.
Love the book and love the online classes it's an investment in your future.This system makes me money every week.Quick question you tought you had a bias voltage I tough a bias voltage would not light a test light am I wrong?
That is correct, though you may have an LED test light glow dimly. Sometimes I speak before I really think about it when troubleshooting live. So you're literally hearing my thought process and I'm definitely off at times but I do correct myself on those things later in the process, which I believe I did here.
Hi Mister Danner, i love your videos, one question... it´s always a secure way to check solenoids and relays using the test light, (less than the 0.3 amps ) without affect the computer driver? can we use this method on every single car? thanks
you can use a jumper wire with the correct polarity on every single car, but if you do it wrong you WILL fry the computer driver for the circuit you are trying to test. A test light has the same dangers, just not as much. Are you safe to use a 300ma test light on all cars and on all systems? No, you are not. There are always precautions and variables. For example a stepper motor IAC driver normally sees about 40ma from the IAC coil. If you test that circuit with a 300ma test light, do you see how much you've increased the load on that driver? No way am I going to tell you that you are safe on every single car and on every single component. Now, if it is a solenoid? Then yes, I would say you are fine with that test light. And to be clear, we are speaking of the driver test (or at least I am).
@ 6:29 you missed/skipped the fact diagram shows "SAIR CONT" for "Secondary Air Control", it being the control and spliced directly to both pump relay and vacuum solenoid says both would be on at the same time. ***seen later in video that you did miss it, then caught it lol. still good too follow the other half back to power/ground though then you'll know if it's pull up/down and what else is connected together if there's other bugs. glad I waited to watch, I'd have been cranky had it vanished part way through lol. not often I watch a whole video at once, always side tracked lol
I'm thinking that the black diaphragm spring acts as a check-valve so the diaphragm can open to allow the pump air to flow but in the event of a back-fire it closes to protect the pump. Just a theory...
No, that valve is super important and is involved in preventing air from being pulled back into the exhaust on negative exhaust pulses and of course to prevent exhaust gas from getting to the air pump
Paul, Quick question Do you think it may be a good idea to rig up a test light with 24 volt bulb for testing solenoids only,Never a driver? I bet you can draw about 300 mA
I've had various lights over the years and you could certainly rig something up for energizing solenoids, just make sure you know what you have current wise when you are done.
don't know, I never worry about the readiness status as I do not use them to confirm a fix. Emission testing is the only time we worry about the readiness monitors
Sir one doubt here they used a solenoid to produce vaccum that in turn actuate the diverter valve instead they can use the solenoid to actuate the diverter valve directly why they didn't do that way?
I see you using wiring diagrams throughout your videos but never caught what service you use to get them i need a diagram for a 2000 Ford ranger 2wd 3.0L but have been unable to find it anywhere, not sure i want to pay for a monthly subscription for 3 pages of diagrams. Can you help?
Paul why don't you like standard testing of relay, can you explaing why i always thought this is a best way/safest way to test a relay 1/ test for resistance between85 and 86 50-120 ohms 2/ supply power and ground to 85 and 86 and listen to click 3/ with circuit energized, check resistance between pin 30 and 87 no resistance 4/supply 12 V to pin 30 , ground your test lite and touch pin 87, light should go on. ALL 4 TESTS PASS = GOOD RELAY
thrown off a bit by the built in disc check-valve ehh? *forgot to say* that weird looking spring is there to push the check-disc shut, also don't get snagged on one that has too low of pump pressure or restricted/leaky hoses to/from the pump. yeah I've torn apart plenty of them in the past so I already know what's in there lol. often times you can pull a vacuum on the diaphragm, then hit the inlet with air compressor to free the check valve disc, I've used carb and brake cleaner in them before, but that could eat the rubber up and usually ends up sticking again sooner than later.
Cold engine start ups, during an enrichment period where unburned fuel is re-ignited in the exhaust manifold to burn it off. At least that's what we were taught way back in the day. It may also be used to help light the cat off quicker.
@ 17:50 since that relay and the vacuum solenoid is wired parallel, that would have been a great time to test it's function also. although it may be too much added confusion for a teaching/training session lol
The spring is to prevent exhaust gas re-circulation in case of pump failure and the valve opens. Keep that rubber closed in case after a time it gets deformed from being open. You should elaborate a bit in one of your videos the pros and cons of power and ground side switching rather then eluding to it all the time. Understanding the system from an engineers prospective is often illuminating to the reason why a system may be designed in what seems a most illogical fashion. The preference to ground side is almost always a in case of failure the failure mode is ground out as opposed to burning out a powered driver. The other is less powered side wiring that in case of a short can cause a lot of damage. Its not always possible to ground side switch and when not possible it is usually done in a way that if system ever does short wont fry other circuits out.
I have many times! Mostly within the confines of my classroom though, so that would be on the premium channel. I'll have to do something here too. Thanks!
@@ScannerDanner I was kinda saying it with premium content in mind. But then again I haven't watched every last video. Esp in the basic sections as much of it is beneath my abilities. But it was the thought I had at the time.
If you're finished with taking that apart, and trying to see where the malfunction occurred, save all of the parts and pieces, Ivan over at Pine Hollow Auto Diagnostics, has a pile for all of those used parts! I think he uses them to rebuild Subarus!! ;-) ;-P
@@ScannerDanner Have you seen a Field effect transistors, I just diagnosed a 2009 Hyundai Santa FE Limited 3.3L blower motor, and it had a FET generally display very high input impedance at low frequencies it is a pretty cool controller.
When you took off the inlet from the pump you had air running through the hose but when I took mine off I didn’t have air coming through from the pump does that mean my air pump is not working?
Why not just put a check valve in it's place and eliminate the need for solenoid and vacuum and computer control? Would also be a fair bit cheaper for the part right? Maybe the air pressure wouldn't be high enough?
I'm really sorry guys, this one looks good, we had some audio/video sync issues, thanks for your patience. This was the third time uploading this, sorry for blowing up your inbox. Don't forget about the merchandise teespring.com/stores/scannerdanner-2 where all proceeds are being donated to charity.
Sir for scanner premium subscribe
You allow another payment mode.because transection by pay Pal get fail everytime and ask for another payment mode
Email me at support@scannerdanner.com and I can help you. Thank you!
Also on Fords those numbers on the fuse panel are not just random numbers, if you go in the owners manual, they tell you the meaning of each number, for example let’s say somewhere on the fuse lid says number 28, in the owners manual it should say that number 28 is a 15 amp headlight fuse. And I know that’s true for my 12 Ford Fusion, I think it should be the same for older fusions. I hope this is helpful.
J how many teeth does a puppy
No questioning your ability here,,,, I spent 32 yrs in the trade and now semi retired and no longer sling wrenches I find myself frequently re- referencing your book and the need to keep my mind knowledgeable of my trade passed by following along with you watching your video's, like anything if you don't use it, you will lose it and I might need to dust of my skill someday. So thank you sir, you truly have a Gift and you are a fantastic Teacher.
I can't tell you how much I appreciate watching you think on your feet. I follow along, then pause the video intermittently and ask myself what I'd do next. Simply brilliant education.
Thanks man, you've been an encourager of me for a very long time and I really appreciate it.
We're lucky to have Dan in our corner helping us with new technology like this. What a gift for dumbing it down for everyone
Thank you! My name is Paul Danner btw 😉
I watched the original video you put up this morning. It was a awesome video that is gonna help me out a lot being I have the same codes but for both banks 1 & 2 on a VW 2.8L V6. I noticed the audio wasn’t synced with the video but I just thought it was my iPad lol. Paul i always learn a lot from your videos. I wish I was in the Pitt area and was able to spend a day with you and your brother at his shop, You guys are both dam good techs. Keep up the good work
Absolute Gold quality content as usual, Dan! Thank you so much for demystifying modern engine controls with a clear logical approach 😃
Just amazing. I watched the video twice and it finally stuck in my brain. Wow thanks. you are truly a unique person. Thank-you so much
You know if I play favorite channels....🤔 you are number 1 ! I always wanted to go to tech school and life got in the way! I had kids early and had to work alot! Lol. In close you have helped an old mans dream come true!!
Some of these are older but I love this stuff, challenges etc. Keep'em coming!
Been doing this forever but always learn something.
Your the of teacher i would travel across the world to learn from and im actually thinking about it. IM THINKING REAL HARD ABOUT IT so dont be suprise if you see me in a few years. I want to learn from the best!!!
In the mean time you can follow me here on UA-cam and on my Premium channel from my website www.scannerdanner.com/join-scannerdanner-premium.html
Nice ! Paul I caught that too that there was no vacuum at times when you were energizing the solenoid ! Good answer as to why !
ScannerDanner you are the best to me not only that but you are the model
Thanks for the information. Was able to verify that the air pump wasn't pumping. Took it apart, found water in it, manually spun the fan impeller, put it back together, now it works. MIL is off and hasn't come back.
i watched the first was it was awesome. It was good to see you when you amazed yourself working on a new unfamiliar engine. thats what its all about. great job brother...Jay
I want to thank you for this video. I am working on a 2009 mecury milan with a 2.3 with the same codes. It helps me with how this system works
So I am working on a 2008 Ford Fusion with this exact issue. The car idles terrible until it warms up. I watched this video first. And I watched it over and over again, and Paul is such a great teacher, I followed along and took notes and now am going to the car to properly diagnose what is wrong with it. Thank you Paul for your knowledge and great teaching ability.
Did this one have an idling issue too? I don't remember that. Thought this was just a code and a light on type complaint.
@@ScannerDanner This car will start up fine, within a few seconds the idles drops, almost causing the car to stall. I started diagnosing the way that I learned from you and can't get the pump to turn on. I'm not sure if the motor is burned up or if I should try to change the relay. I am getting a P2258 code.
Did this symptom occur the same time as the check engine light and that code?
I don't think this secondary air code is causing that. Separate issue imo
@@ScannerDanner I'm not sure. Someone brought the car to me to have some other work done and they said that a shop told them they had a bad air pump. that shop told them about the code. I verified the code. The symptoms have been occurring for the customer for a while now. No other codes are coming up. Maybe throttle body is dirty? I am going to check the pump today, but if it is bad, you don't think that is why it drops in idle and runs bad? After it warms up, it seems to run fine.
@@tomclark3592 you need to find out for sure but no, separate problem imo
Learning should be done this way with all disciplines. GREAT WORK!!!
Thank you!
I just diag'd a 2009 VW Rabbit P0491 code the other day. Never worked on one or diagnosed one. Thanks to SD Premium I diagnosed it in no time. In my VW case I had bidirectional control of the pump and the diverter valve and I found the pump not running. Went to the relay and had no ground through the pump. Up on the lift, unplug the pump connector and use the AESWave kit to connect my high amp test light to the pump connector with a bidirectional control, and diag was done. Bad pump. I did check the other components to make sure there wasn't another problem but once you know the basics it doesn't matter what you're working on. Such good stuff here and on SD Premium!
The pumps often fail due to the diverter valve leaking exhaust gasses to the pump where water vapors condense and ruin the pump. Make sure the valve isn't leaking. It's best to just replace it so you're not replacing it and another pump in the near future.
@@fascistpedant758 Yeah, good tip. I checked the diverter valve for leaks and had none. I used a rubber glove on the pump side of the valve and ran the engine. In this case, the motor had a bad rubber seal and water got into the motor side of the pump.
Thank you Paul and Caleb. Good job. Have a blessed and safe week.
Another nice diagnostic and repair vid. Appreciate the diverter autopsy, I do the same thing often with failed parts when and where time permits..
Great work as always. Thanks for taking the time to take the part apart
The disassembly segment would make a great reference video. Seeing how it's designed and how it works is extremely useful information if you want to try to service the valve. I tend to trust that you actually heard it open and close. Could the rubber flap of the check valve have stuck to it's mating surface enough to hold the 1-2 psi from the blower? Now that we know how it's built, it would be nice to be able to go back and take another shot at fixing it. A little cleaning and lube through the output port, and a shot of shop air through the input port to un-stick it might have done the trick. I'm sure this video will be very useful to many people. Thanks for sharing. p.s. If you delete this comment again, the next one will be even longer! LOL
Want someone who takes parts apart to see how they work? We should have Paul send all his old parts to Canada to @Junkfromwork who's got his own channel. Good fun Canadian tech.
I haven't heard it yet but Paul said "Computer Controlled Solenoid" so since everything in the automotive industry has abbreviations why don't we just call it the "CCS" from here on out so I can be even more confused when looking at diagrams, etc... 😂😅😂😅
Can I take credit for coining the phrase ➡ CCS ⬅ ❓❓
Great video Paul as always!
@@dtnel Thanks for the tip, I'll check him out.
@@fascistpedant758 NP. I think he has a livestream going right now or did awhile ago. I was suppose to stop by and discuss something with him but he had enough on so I sat today out. It wasn't a set thing but told him other day I may swing by.
Great video. I love the little MAF thinking out loud
I waited for the 3rd version to come out to watch it! Great work Paul!
Paul,good video and thanks for fixing. The first was a little tough but I stuck it out. Actually in parts it was quite funny. Thanks again. Thought at first it was the coffee I was drinking Lol 👍👍👍
This amazing video again is really good information over electric control of the secondary air inyection in that Ford. Thanks for share this.
Watching for the 3rd time. Know the system very well now. Thank you. Lol
Great learning video, enjoyed it, even if you couldn't find what actually happened to the old/bad valve. You would've thought it would have been obvious. Don't worry about the 'Blowing up our inbox', we all know how things never go as planned. ;) Thanks again!
Hi scannerdanner I've been following your videos a lot and I think you're doing a great job
The look on your face when you proved the mass thing was priceless
ON FORD U COULD COMMAND THE AIR PUMP ON WITH SCANNER EVEN IF THERE IS NOT BIDIRECTIONAL OPTION , BY DOING KOEO CODE TEST IT WILL COMMAND THE AIR PUMP ON AND ALSO WILL RUN MONITOR ON SOME AS WELL , I LOVE YOUR VIDEOS AND I AM A MEMBER OF YOUR PREMIUM ON YOUR WEBSITE FOR A MONTH AND WHAT YOU TEACH IS SOMETHING I WAS LOOKING FOR FOR LONG TIME , BECAUSE U NOT JUST READING BOOKS AND TEACHING BOOKS U ALSO SHOWING IT IN REAL WORLD WITCH MAKES IT MORE FUN AND EASY FOR US TO UNDERSTAND WHAT ARE TALKING ABOUT , THANKS AGAIN
This guy is top notch. All need a buddy as he. Ive just ordered my parts. ********************
Order for a mercury Milan vs a ford fusion and your cost will be half or at least a-lot less. Same part $75 vs $160 . Same part#s same w Lincoln mkz as well.
Watched it already. Great diagnostics. Cheers...
Done, watched again. Another good vid: thx for taking the time
I appreciate you took the time to open up the valve and check out the inside,I'm always curious to find out if we can see the failure. You've proven several times throughout the video what failed, so solid diagnostic there! 👍 It looks like Ford is selling the valve and solenoid as an assembly, that should make some technicians happy since they don't have to prove which component failed. 😁 I personally watch your channel because I want to learn how the system works. I'm actually surprised that the Verus doesn't have a secondary air pump activation, they're usually solid on domestics! I would've definitely tried another scanner,I'm pretty sure it would've had a secondary air pump activation test, they are very common and it would've saved a technician a lot of time and extra work! I'm sure you could've done that, but it's no fun for you not having to show us the diagram,activate relays etc...you love that kind of stuff! 😁👍 I would've liked to see the O2s react to the scan tool activation of the pump, but I've seen that live on a car and they show lean like they should! Thanks again, great video! 👍👍👍
What an awesome video! I just learned a great deal about finding direction with an unfamiliar system from this one! The bonus footage at the end was super awesome too! Danner.........you're awesome with everything that you do! Great job once again and thank you for another gold quality video! Your perfectionism really pays off for us viewers! We learn a butt load just from your UA-cam videos so don't be so hard on yourself all the time lol! So thank you again sir and can't wait to see ya on the next one!
Am I too hard on myself? I think wanting that moment for you guys that is down to the exact point of failure and then not getting it l(ike on this one) is always disappointing to me and that maybe is what you see?
@@ScannerDanner Well yes, of course that's what I saw in this video. And I totally get it because if I'm honest.......I'm the same exact way LOL! I knew what it was you wanted to show by the end, and although you couldn't get any "hard" evidence.......you remained totally transparent and still included that footage in this video for us! From what we see, that allowed this whole process to be 100 percent realistic and authentic because we understand you won't always get the evidence that you want with every repair! Sometimes things end up kinda weird, and yes sometimes people will be confused because you couldn't verify a fault with hard evidence! Totally relatable! And we also understand it perfectly from your point of view because you are a teacher and you want us to understand every individual diagnosis comprehensively as we follow the journey with you! When I said don't be so hard on yourself.....I meant don't feel like a failure of any sort due to this fact, or due to your content quality, or anything of the sort! I can vouch for everyone here that watches and LEARNS from your content..........they would NOT want you to change a single thing you're doing! I personally just don't want you to beat yourself up TOO much, that's all! Don't get discouraged whatsoever............because most of us "get it". We get what you were trying to do.....or show us! I mean seriously, you're a godsend when it comes to teaching others in this field! So keep up the good work and there's no words that could describe the amount of thanks we have for all of you and Caleb's hard work and contributions to us aspiring technicians, especially nowadays! For those who don't "get it" from this video.....well.......they will if they keep watching ya! Or subscribe to SD Premium! So that's what I meant when I said don't be so hard on yourself (even though I'm not one to talk because I'm the same way). You always do a perfect job! Thank you and your son Caleb very much! =]
Thank you so much for the encouragement this morning. Get way to start my day. I'm super grateful for this.
@@ScannerDanner Haha no worries! You deserve more encouraging feedback like this every time from everyone who watches and takes in the free comprehensive information you give out every video! The very least we can do is give credit where credit is due and we owe it to you to LEARN everything you make an effort to teach, even if one should rewatch the video several times! You've earned it for yourself after all! See ya on the next one and thanks again Danner! =]
Finally got time to watch this one - been in my inbox for too long!
Don't you just love Ford fuse boxes? Even my '86 Grand Marquis isn't labeled. I took a paint pen and labeled them all myself on the backside of the plastic cover under the steering wheel. 😂 Stupid Fords! 🤬
All these failure-prone emission bandaids will keep us eating well for the foreseeable future, at least! 😁 Great vid as always! 👍🍻
Poor May! I haven't whacked a finger that good in 25 years. Back when I was working in a plastic factory, I was running a machine that stamped out and glued foam liners in plastic caps. There was a wheel under tremendous spring tension that I had fully extended to change to a new roll of tape ... and the SOB tipped over the center point without my seeing it, and slammed down on my ring finger. Thought I lost the tip of my finger at first - went totally numb. When I looked at my fingernail, it was GREEN! Turned black just like May's with time. Boy did that HURT!! Think it took almost 3 months for the nail to completely replace itself.
I been trying to watch this all day
I'm so sorry, it is fixed now
ScannerDanner you know your stuff I wouldn’t miss this for anything I learn something new every time
Awesome video!
The pump should only run for a few minutes correct ? Or until closed loop is reached?
correct, 90 seconds max maybe
No I don’t question it whether it fixed the problem or not cause I trust that you got it fixed and if not no big deal it’s a Ford (what is the problem). But I have questions
1) instead of jumper wire can you use an older wire tester? Non LED light
2) when taking apart the valve could have been carbon buildup making it not work properly?
Thank you love the videos even here on vacation in the Philippines
I saw the GREAT previous one, with the bad valve, and it was great!
This video reminds me of my younger days of working at the Cadillac dealership. The early 2000’s Deville’s and Seville’s were PLAUGED with Secondary AIR system problems.
those should have been called GSIS "Guaranteed Secondary Income Systems"
throttle bottle 😂😂😂 👍👍
Lol, in a way it does not mather, i always watch your video multiple times!
This is great stuff, first time tuning in !
Great show!
When Vac is Applied and solenoid is energized the the orange end is pulled away from the Reed valve allowing flow through when solenoid is De-energized the spring will hold the reed valves shut to prevent Exhaust gas from running back to the air box .
Correct?
I believe so , yes
@@ScannerDanner Looks like you could mode the old one into the intake side of a Pulse jet engine😁
* Thank you very much Sir your youtube Videos. * God bless you Sir. . Thank you. .
Did you fix it after replacing the deverter? Did the vacuum change pitches when removing vacuum after replacement?
Another great vid! What relay kit by AESwave do you use in your video, they they more than one, so interested which one you have thx
don't worry about it . you did great job .. Spring is broken
spring was fine, it was there to push the "disc check valve" shut, until he put it back on reversed. the metal and rubber disc tend to get sticky and gum up together into a stuck mess.
same thing happens on systems with only check valves, maybe a hose/pump leak allowed salt/water/contamination to get into there, alternate the pump could be weak or a hose leak and not enough pressure to open the disc
Hello Sir! I enjoy your channel a great deal and it has helped me understand the basics of diagnosing problems. Quick question, would you have a discount code or some kind of promo for people with a fixed income? I'm disabled and don't have much extra but would love to read your book! Thanks again and keep up the good work!
Email me at support@scannerdanner.com and copy and paste this message in the email
Great video. I plan on ordering your book next week.
I believe on your Snap On scanner the bidirectional control for the air pump relay is under Out Put Controls, am I wrong on this?
I had a high school algebra teacher that would freak out if numbers were not pronounced correctly. Like Mr. Danner said at the start of the video. He pronounced the year as two thousand and nine. My teacher would get mad and say you just said 2000.9 not 2009. It is pronounced two thousand nine. After all these years it still with me.
had one like that also, luckily only for "study hall" and not math which I took advanced class earlier in the day. anyway the fella would go total nuts if there was the tinniest speck of paper on the desks or floor anywhere, like spiral bound notebooks sheets ripped out leaving pieces falling all over and the jagged edge on the paper, lookout all hell would break loose!
one time someone dumped a giant amount of shredded paper/confetti in the room, he left and he wasn't seen for two weeks, either mental breakdown or vacation, I never messed with the guy and figured some form of OCD or PTSD who knows, wasn't any of my business :)
This was a powerfull video Paul thank you!!!
Hey Dan I have a 2007 Fusion and would like to know what are those two sensors with the black and blue connectors by the exhaust manifold? One of them has to be the Upstream O2 sensor but what's the other one and which is wich? Thank you and take care.
I went too AutoZone and these codes came up. Po491 and Po410, Thanks
You need service information, eautorepair.adtrk.biz/?a=10817&c=24&p=r&s1=
Another great video. I listened to the remarkable results podcast with you in it today and you 4 guys did an amazing job discussing the pros and cons of youtube.
Secondly, I kept seeing the autel case next to the car. I assume you tried using the autel for bidirectional control? I've had slightly better luck with the autel and bidirectional controls than I have with the snap on lately.
I figure the diaphragm shaft was seized in the housing (steel and aluminum created galvanic corrosion and seized the shaft). Possibly it could have been freed by applying a higher vacuum to the diaphragm than the 15"Hg the engine was producing. It looks like that thin spring was added as an extra precaution to keep exhaust gases from backwashing into the air inlet tube, where it would burn the hoses and air pump.
I agree, I was just surprised by the sound I was hearing of the valve opening on the car. I had to be just the diaphragm itself I was hearing.
Just for some good insight I use a relay test jumpers kit #69300 for testing they are awesome to test the relay and inputs and out puts all at the same time.
Love the book and love the online classes it's an investment in your future.This system makes me money every week.Quick question you tought you had a bias voltage I tough a bias voltage would not light a test light am I wrong?
That is correct, though you may have an LED test light glow dimly. Sometimes I speak before I really think about it when troubleshooting live. So you're literally hearing my thought process and I'm definitely off at times but I do correct myself on those things later in the process, which I believe I did here.
@@ScannerDanner thank you for the clarification I appreciate it.
Hi Mister Danner, i love your videos, one question... it´s always a secure way to check solenoids and relays using the test light, (less than the 0.3 amps ) without affect the computer driver? can we use this method on every single car? thanks
you can use a jumper wire with the correct polarity on every single car, but if you do it wrong you WILL fry the computer driver for the circuit you are trying to test. A test light has the same dangers, just not as much. Are you safe to use a 300ma test light on all cars and on all systems? No, you are not. There are always precautions and variables. For example a stepper motor IAC driver normally sees about 40ma from the IAC coil. If you test that circuit with a 300ma test light, do you see how much you've increased the load on that driver? No way am I going to tell you that you are safe on every single car and on every single component. Now, if it is a solenoid? Then yes, I would say you are fine with that test light. And to be clear, we are speaking of the driver test (or at least I am).
@@ScannerDanner Tanks a lot Mister Danner, it´s now much clear to do my owns test and how to be much more cautioner on that kind of test.
Great video as usual 😊
Thank you Mr Danner
Awesome outstanding job thanks
@ 6:29 you missed/skipped the fact diagram shows "SAIR CONT" for "Secondary Air Control", it being the control and spliced directly to both pump relay and vacuum solenoid says both would be on at the same time. ***seen later in video that you did miss it, then caught it lol.
still good too follow the other half back to power/ground though then you'll know if it's pull up/down and what else is connected together if there's other bugs.
glad I waited to watch, I'd have been cranky had it vanished part way through lol. not often I watch a whole video at once, always side tracked lol
I'm thinking that the black diaphragm spring acts as a check-valve so the diaphragm can open to allow the pump air to flow but in the event of a back-fire it closes to protect the pump. Just a theory...
Good work as always 👍🏻
This can work ok even without the diverted valve.?great work as always..
No, that valve is super important and is involved in preventing air from being pulled back into the exhaust on negative exhaust pulses and of course to prevent exhaust gas from getting to the air pump
You are the best (el número uno)
Paul,
Quick question
Do you think it may be a good idea to rig up a test light with 24 volt bulb for testing solenoids only,Never a driver?
I bet you can draw about 300 mA
I've had various lights over the years and you could certainly rig something up for energizing solenoids, just make sure you know what you have current wise when you are done.
Well there's your problem mister, its a Ford!
Good video Paul
Great video
Maybe the spring you found wrapped around the one-way valve gave it to much stiffness and did not let it flow full air force.
How soon after changing that valve did the readiness code on the OB2 change to clear?
don't know, I never worry about the readiness status as I do not use them to confirm a fix. Emission testing is the only time we worry about the readiness monitors
Hi Paul.
how does a ECM know when a misfire happened? It can not see where the spark went.
by monitoring a high resolution crank sensor and counting the frequency increases each time a cylinder fires, or decreases in the case of a misfire
Thanks!
Sir one doubt here they used a solenoid to produce vaccum that in turn actuate the diverter valve instead they can use the solenoid to actuate the diverter valve directly why they didn't do that way?
I went to the junk yard and cut out some assorted tail and marker lights with their sockets for when I need a test light with more amperage.
the catalysts are clogged and the pressure is stronger and keeps the clogged valve a probability
the car likely wouldn't run at all if it was that plugged up or would stall when the air injection did run
not necessarily has to be completely obstructed to create pressure, if this pressure is high the strongest wins but you're right in what you say.
no, the exhaust is not plugged, no driveability problems on this car whatsoever
I see you using wiring diagrams throughout your videos but never caught what service you use to get them i need a diagram for a 2000 Ford ranger 2wd 3.0L but have been unable to find it anywhere, not sure i want to pay for a monthly subscription for 3 pages of diagrams. Can you help?
For $20 you can have all the service info you need. Print it out and save it for the future as well
eautorepair.adtrk.biz/?a=10817&c=24&p=r&s1=
Paul why don't you like standard testing of relay, can you explaing why
i always thought this is a best way/safest way to test a relay
1/ test for resistance between85 and 86 50-120 ohms
2/ supply power and ground to 85 and 86 and listen to click
3/ with circuit energized, check resistance between pin 30 and 87 no resistance
4/supply 12 V to pin 30 , ground your test lite and touch pin 87, light should go on.
ALL 4 TESTS PASS = GOOD RELAY
Because when resitance measures good, it can still be bad. The ohmmeter does not stress the circuit.
Can you replace the black cord that connect to the air pump
Where do you get your wiring diagrams from? Do you have to pay for them?
Yes, it is a program that runs about $160 per month. Here is a DIY version for individual cars eautorepair.adtrk.biz/?a=10817&c=24&p=r&s1=
I actually print these out, tape them together and use multi color highlights on the wires.
You're right it's very hard otherwise
I make load testers from old parking light sockets and bulbs to draw amps.
L ed test lights don't draw amps.
Great low tech use of logic tests.
Thanks!
Thank you so much! Totally not necessary but very much appreciated.
Probably that rubber ring in front of side are one direction valve, and probably that spring made blockage.
thrown off a bit by the built in disc check-valve ehh? *forgot to say* that weird looking spring is there to push the check-disc shut, also don't get snagged on one that has too low of pump pressure or restricted/leaky hoses to/from the pump.
yeah I've torn apart plenty of them in the past so I already know what's in there lol. often times you can pull a vacuum on the diaphragm, then hit the inlet with air compressor to free the check valve disc, I've used carb and brake cleaner in them before, but that could eat the rubber up and usually ends up sticking again sooner than later.
Hey dumb question and honestly wanting to know. What is a air pump used for in a car for its engine? Never heard of an air pump
Cold engine start ups, during an enrichment period where unburned fuel is re-ignited in the exhaust manifold to burn it off. At least that's what we were taught way back in the day.
It may also be used to help light the cat off quicker.
@ 17:50 since that relay and the vacuum solenoid is wired parallel, that would have been a great time to test it's function also. although it may be too much added confusion for a teaching/training session lol
The spring is to prevent exhaust gas re-circulation in case of pump failure and the valve opens. Keep that rubber closed in case after a time it gets deformed from being open. You should elaborate a bit in one of your videos the pros and cons of power and ground side switching rather then eluding to it all the time. Understanding the system from an engineers prospective is often illuminating to the reason why a system may be designed in what seems a most illogical fashion. The preference to ground side is almost always a in case of failure the failure mode is ground out as opposed to burning out a powered driver. The other is less powered side wiring that in case of a short can cause a lot of damage. Its not always possible to ground side switch and when not possible it is usually done in a way that if system ever does short wont fry other circuits out.
I have many times! Mostly within the confines of my classroom though, so that would be on the premium channel. I'll have to do something here too. Thanks!
@@ScannerDanner I was kinda saying it with premium content in mind. But then again I haven't watched every last video. Esp in the basic sections as much of it is beneath my abilities. But it was the thought I had at the time.
If you're finished with taking that apart, and trying to see where the malfunction occurred, save all of the parts and pieces, Ivan over at Pine Hollow Auto Diagnostics, has a pile for all of those used parts!
I think he uses them to rebuild Subarus!! ;-) ;-P
Got you another view on the re-up
Hay Paul have you worked on full electrical cars yet.
Not yet
@@ScannerDanner Have you seen a Field effect transistors, I just diagnosed a 2009 Hyundai Santa FE Limited 3.3L blower motor, and it had a FET generally display very high input impedance at low frequencies it is a pretty cool controller.
When you took off the inlet from the pump you had air running through the hose but when I took mine off I didn’t have air coming through from the pump does that mean my air pump is not working?
I have a code p2257
I just replaced that what you are working on
Was your air pump running? You can hear it. It should run on start up for up to 30 seconds on a cold start
Their is long hose on the secondary intake where does it go from that intake
Why not just put a check valve in it's place and eliminate the need for solenoid and vacuum and computer control? Would also be a fair bit cheaper for the part right? Maybe the air pressure wouldn't be high enough?
Just answered one above on this. Great question, look for my reply
Please upload eps( mdps )system fault diagnosis
Funny my Launch has Bio Control of the pump. As I work on these Fords and Mazda all the time...
what scanner do you use?
Snap-on Verus and Autel IM608
But what if the diverter worked is there a next step.?