With all the problems getting parts nowadays and material expenses, I think your kind of skills are going to get that much more in demand. But you're not only getting the gear back in the field and productive again, you're making strong lasting repairs. Thanks for dropping scholarship on us!
I sure hope this customer of yours appreciates all this outstanding work you’re doing for them. Most repair shops, even the highly regarded ones, wouldn’t go these extra steps for customers. Your 1 in a million (or more).
Would have to comment that helicoils when properly installed are a perfectly acceptable option. Having been a jet engine mechanic for 35 years, I've installed thousands of them. We often use them on softer materials such as aluminum and magnesium which typically are not strong enough to maintain a proper thread after multiple installations and removals. Typically they would be installed with some thread adhesive to prevent turning out with the fastener.
I found helicoils are ok for some fixes. But the don’t handle repeated ins and outs or over tightened . They tend to stretch the threads if over tighten or improper install. They have their uses. Solid pinned inserts works best, if you have to use the same hole pattern. Great video, great ideas.
You have to listen carefully before commenting, he mentioned that he likes helicoils and has used them a bunch. He said these were just installed incorrectly (among other things).
Turned out great! What I would have done differently instead of offsetting the holes I would drill smaller holes between the casting and the bolt and secured them with dowel pins so I could keep the original hole pattern.
@@ronnieswindski825 What 2 clips? Are you talking about the clips were used in thread inserts that were removed? His repair did not involve thread inserts.
That was an awesome video, thank you for sharing. I like the way you offset the new holes thus eliminating the possibility of the bolt ever turning. Watching from Perth Western Australia.👍👍😀😀🇦🇺🇦🇺
i am not a welder however I love how you engineer repairs. You are a real craftsman. In my life i have done a lot of repairs. I have learned a lot watching how you tackle and solve problems. You should be required watching for vocational students of all ages.
You will always get one that doesn’t want to come out. All up an excellent repair job. On site repair work is never as good as having the parts in a good work shop but some times you don’t have the time to stand a machine down but when time is available later you are the man to fix the stuff up.👌
interesting way of doing the repair. The offset new bolt holes will also in effect be locking in the bolts used to plug the old holes. Nice out of the box solution, the alternative would have probably been scrapping the part.
Sorry I missed the premier of this video. Did the other guy who probably works for company M try and do this freehand with a hammer drill? Absolutely needed a magnetic drill at very least. Your solution to the problem is the best and you are the finest my friend. I just inherited a huge box of helicoil sets and all sorts of other thread saving devices from a friend who was cleaning out his dad's former race car shop in North Jersey. I stopped by to pick up a 76" metal brake and ended up leaving with my springs dragging on the ground from stuff I have no idea yet because I haven't even looked.
Brilliant tepair!👍 Nice workmanship. I believe that should last the customer a lifetime. Well done🙂 Everything is nice and true as well. That’s exactly how I would have done it but minus the idea of using bolts. That’s something I didn’t think of as an option. Thank you for the bolt idea🙏🙂
Okay I am 1 year late seeing this repair. I like it ! I looked at ever comment and don’t see where anyone ask about the machine setup . If this is broke and screwed up there may be an issue with the hose setup coming to the unit ( lack of support or deflection) I would love to see the unit assembly being used. I suspect it’s not engineered correctly or used the way intended and will fail again. In my years of working for a world wide company I see issues in the field that result in big repairs. Maybe a retro fit of a bracket or something to remove the forces from those bolts.
Another way would be to drill and tap a 3/8 NPT. Then lock tite and install a 3/8 allen head pipe plug, then drill center of plug and tap to bolt size. This is similar to the "thread xert" but because it is a tapered thread the pipe plug provides a much more tighter solid contact to the cast iron. It can be done in the field accurately if a jig is made to center the 37/64 drill bit.
I have to agree with you on your comment. Both would work, but keeping the same layout would ensure the lock down brackets would not interfere with any thing else
i'd love to pick your brain about what this bit of kit is used for and why you chose this repair rather than porting out a bigger hole and putting in a courser/finer thread(depends on what cast it is) and drilling that and tapping it in the centre, i get the theory behind it that if the big bolt starts to slip then it won't be effected when torqueing the small bolts into it and this also contributes to offsetting the holes. much love from the UK from a fellow welder and machinist ;)
Agree on the threaded inserts. The scariest place for thread repairs is when the parts get hot, as in combustion engine cylinders. Then you can't even rely on the Loctite. I once owned a Honda CB250RS, it was a mother to stop the oil leaks. Really soft alloy as well. Not as bad as East German mopeds from the 70s but still fairly bad. Würth threaded inserts worked a million times better than those Helicoil spirals. Spirals are for IUDs. I would not dare tap on the mill without a tapping head though, and better to use taps that are actually meant for machine-tapping, which you recognize by the spiral flutes as far as I know. I suspect you could get a lot more use out of the mill. Look up a guy named Stefan Gotteswinter, awesome machining channel with loads of practical solutions presented in a harsh German accent. He may overdo it with the precision at times, which for many of your applications is not necessary to _that_ degree. But on the other hand, the efficiency is hard to beat. The other channel I love for demonstrating mill table mounting solutions is TheMetalRaymond, Spanish geezer with a big ass horizontal mill type boring machine.
I am in the heavy repair also ..Call me crazy but I love the challenge of a broke bolt or bad threads ... I like bearing retaining compound if i dont ever want it move thats so mean stuff ...Beautiful repair
Dear Crazy, I agree. love the challenge, but stressful after someone else has jacket up the bolt. I have a couple pieces I've saved in my tool box. I use them as reminder when I need encouragement.
Many grades of Cast Iron, namely Ductile Iron (SG), have mechanical properties equivalent to medium carbon and low alloy steels, particularly those used in hydraulic manifolds. Therefore when machining with modern cutting tools, and speeds/feeds generally require coolant, traditional cast iron, or flake graphite Iron was machined dry, mainly due to having HSS cutting tools etc. If you look at the swarf (chips), they looked very similar to steel in shape and form. Hope this helps.
Having the right tools a know how along with common sense sure does make a repair like this one a skill ! Great job ! Your knowledge of different types metals is a big part of successfully getting a job done correctly ! An its a pleasure watching overcome obstacles that customers bring to you to fix for them ! I hope the know how valuable an asset you are to them ! 👍👍
Not gonna lie , when you started power tapping those holes , you couldn't have driven a knitting needle in my butt with a 16 lb. Sledge . Have removed plenty of taps with carbide end mills after hand cranking by gorillas.😮 Love the videos. Lots of good memories.😊
Mr. you are a very Professional mechanic, in Eastern Europe (50 years ago) we have 3 thread taps in mm for one size. I was surprised when I see those treads with Springs. Maybe imported from Pakistan.
Heli-coils work perfectly fine for many things, but have to be installed correctly. They have no strength at all when not installed, and cannot be removed without ruining the coil. They are NOT "springs".
you should consider time-sert inserts. they are standard thread pitch and stackable. perfect for situations like this where the hole is totally blown out.
That bridgeport you got looks to be in excellent condition I didn’t see any flex anywhere when you was initializing your bored if I tried that with my mill it’d do it but I’d have to really apply allot of pressure at the very beginning I typically do jobs like this in my radial arm drill tho amazing machine for these types of jobs
It is a hydraulic breaker. Like a giant jackhammer that mounts to excavator. It pounds everything, even itself. They need complete rebuild and inspection every year. Opperator prob wacked the lines bolts off.
Hey Greg I’ve seen some really interesting content of yours from big cat plant to mechanical conveyers at a recycling facility and now milling and lathe operation’s have you and those that are close a prosperous new year 2023 outstanding sir!
I think you’d be better off using the original holes to make 1” thread them in and then use those bolts bolts for the original size bolts. Safer that way especially If the machine it attaches to has non movable steel lines.
That would be ok if you didnt have to worry about the oring surface. Trying to make the studs offset would be a cunt. The hoses that mount there get replaced all the time.
I'm happy that i came a cross you to day i can't tell you how nice it is to watch you and to see the old way are still out there you don't just do the jobs you perfect them thank you for sharing your day
I was worried about drilling half on half off the bolts thinking the bit would walk off to the the easier material to cut. I'm glad it worked out for you though
@@kevinpeterson4098if he went on center the larger bolt would be able to back out. Not likely, but especially on a hammer with heavy vibration and heat cycling it would be a possibility. Being off center the filler bolt physically cannot turn.
Nothing wrong with a heli coil, maybe not a perfect repair but an effective one. I've held on motorcycle heads with them before, still put a couple thousand miles every year on one I fixed that way
okay my friend wanted me to watch this, am I correct that you drilled it out, re-threaded the holes, put bigger bolts into it, then drilled the bolts out and used the bolts for the same size threading that they were before the repair? You absolute f*cking genius.
couple questions. do you have an idea why all the factory threads fsiled? the repairs that failed, doesnt seam like that is a repair that should be made in the field. i love your idea on the fix.
I thought about using bolts like this before, also pre drilling a hole in the center to reduce any hydraulic pressure, or air pressure pushing the lock tight out , i have even thought about trying jb weld on the threads, in a test situation first, that was when i was a dumb kid, and didn't know about lock tight
Yep just like i would have done it, but i drive a truck and dont have a Bridgeport,excellent engineering there my man, should last out the life of the hammer,🇬🇧
Helicoils work well if used properly. Done hundreds or more. Why so large of bolt? Always best to only go large enough to cover damaged area in case they ever have to be redone in the future. Also could be voids or passages hit by going so large. Usually best to keep holes in original position if possible. You could have just pinned bolts. Not a good idea to drill and/or tap across two pieces, especially if different types. If a problem arises it will be there. Nice work though overall.
That green glue or loctite don't play. Damn near the same as welding the hole shut with out the heat. Man id love to hear your back story. You groew up on a farm or in a machine shop one, if you are a Dad, happy fathers day.
that looks like cast steel the way its chipping very good thread repair but I think the casing will still be scrap as the junction between the bolts will seep oil as a 1 inch sae flange has quite a big o-ring it looked like you had drilled through the flange witness mark you would have been better off setting a smaller diameter bolt and keeping the original alignment for the flanges as its easier to reference them as some half flange manufacturers have a gap at the tips
could have turned the ol 0mm bolts down in tut lathe ,left the to bit turned to 10mm stickin out to slip the spigit over to hold tut oil pipe ye !!! just a thought , great work , lovely job ,regards from tut UK
Is there a reason that you use air as opposed to vacuum to clean things up ? It would seem like you would want to collect that debris rather than spread it all around the shop .Seems it would keep it out of the recesses of the machinery as well .
@@OFW I would add, use a bottom taps on the 1/2-13 bolt holes. Likely the problem started because someone was use to long of bolts and they trying to tighten then into the tapered thread at the bottom of the hole and then pulled the treads.
You sure that’s cast iron? It sure is making chips more like some sort of steel. Traditional cast iron will machine with super tiny chips that are almost like dust. Maybe it’s some sort of ductile iron.
Absolutely despise helicoils. Had an older Harley springer softail with 16 inch ape hangers. Was constantly having the risers strip out for what reason I'm not sure. Had them repaired with helicoils. While riding down I90 in Chicago my riser helicoil pulled right out causing me to almost crash my bike at 79 mph. I was lucky enough to get it on the shoulder before it completely broke off. Will never use those things again. They almost cost me my life.
Only thing I would do diffrent is I like to drill and then tap each hole without moving the table. Then you know you are perfectly centered on the hole. Not an issue with softer metals and bigger taps but if you do some smaller taps in something lime stainless it will work alot better for ya.
I've only watched 1/3 of the video. I assume that you centered the mill bit over each hole? You didn't show how you located the end mill. We know what assume means. Jim
With all the problems getting parts nowadays and material expenses, I think your kind of skills are going to get that much more in demand. But you're not only getting the gear back in the field and productive again, you're making strong lasting repairs. Thanks for dropping scholarship on us!
I sure hope this customer of yours appreciates all this outstanding work you’re doing for them. Most repair shops, even the highly regarded ones, wouldn’t go these extra steps for customers. Your 1 in a million (or more).
Customer couldn't get a fix any better than that! Awesome job.
Would have to comment that helicoils when properly installed are a perfectly acceptable option. Having been a jet engine mechanic for 35 years, I've installed thousands of them. We often use them on softer materials such as aluminum and magnesium which typically are not strong enough to maintain a proper thread after multiple installations and removals. Typically they would be installed with some thread adhesive to prevent turning out with the fastener.
I found helicoils are ok for some fixes. But the don’t handle repeated ins and outs or over tightened .
They tend to stretch the threads if over tighten or improper install. They have their uses.
Solid pinned inserts works best, if you have to use the same hole pattern.
Great video, great ideas.
I agree with you
@Sheila Walker nope. Ain’t gonna happen.
You have to listen carefully before commenting, he mentioned that he likes helicoils and has used them a bunch. He said these were just installed incorrectly (among other things).
@@JFirn86Q And did not mention cast iron on a aircraft. Some people start typing before the finish listening.
Turned out great! What I would have done differently instead of offsetting the holes I would drill smaller holes between the casting and the bolt and secured them with dowel pins so I could keep the original hole pattern.
How would dowel pins secure the 2 clips?
Agree on maintaining the original hole pattern.
@@ronnieswindski825 What 2 clips? Are you talking about the clips were used in thread inserts that were removed? His repair did not involve thread inserts.
That was an awesome video, thank you for sharing. I like the way you offset the new holes thus eliminating the possibility of the bolt ever turning. Watching from Perth Western Australia.👍👍😀😀🇦🇺🇦🇺
i am not a welder however I love how you engineer repairs.
You are a real craftsman. In my life i have done a lot of repairs. I have learned a lot watching how you tackle and solve problems. You should be required watching for vocational students of all ages.
I love the way you clocked the bolt pattern so it acts like a lock that will prevent the big plug bolts from moving.
You sir are a credit to the american workforce ! If I could only find employees like you ! BIKERB
I really like that you don't leave any step out when filming a repair!
Wow. Total control and precision. Super impressive repair and great camera work. Great video. Great channel. Thanks 👍👌⭐⭐⭐⭐⭐
I admire how you respectfully and and with much class you address other companies mistakes and shitty work. 😅
You will always get one that doesn’t want to come out. All up an excellent repair job. On site repair work is never as good as having the parts in a good work shop but some times you don’t have the time to stand a machine down but when time is available later you are the man to fix the stuff up.👌
That was absolutely Awesome, Greg!! Excellent idea, nice machine approach!! Thanks again!!
interesting way of doing the repair. The offset new bolt holes will also in effect be locking in the bolts used to plug the old holes. Nice out of the box solution, the alternative would have probably been scrapping the part.
I recently found your channel best channel ever love all your repairs learn a lot from you you’re 😎
Sorry I missed the premier of this video. Did the other guy who probably works for company M try and do this freehand with a hammer drill? Absolutely needed a magnetic drill at very least. Your solution to the problem is the best and you are the finest my friend. I just inherited a huge box of helicoil sets and all sorts of other thread saving devices from a friend who was cleaning out his dad's former race car shop in North Jersey. I stopped by to pick up a 76" metal brake and ended up leaving with my springs dragging on the ground from stuff I have no idea yet because I haven't even looked.
Brilliant tepair!👍 Nice workmanship. I believe that should last the customer a lifetime. Well done🙂 Everything is nice and true as well. That’s exactly how I would have done it but minus the idea of using bolts. That’s something I didn’t think of as an option. Thank you for the bolt idea🙏🙂
One of the best things I ever did was buy a tension compression tapping chuck for my mill, I highly recommend it
Awesome repair Greg, what ever it takes right. Definitely helps to have the right tools for the job.
Okay I am 1 year late seeing this repair. I like it ! I looked at ever comment and don’t see where anyone ask about the machine setup . If this is broke and screwed up there may be an issue with the hose setup coming to the unit ( lack of support or deflection) I would love to see the unit assembly being used. I suspect it’s not engineered correctly or used the way intended and will fail again. In my years of working for a world wide company I see issues in the field that result in big repairs. Maybe a retro fit of a bracket or something to remove the forces from those bolts.
Another way would be to drill and tap a 3/8 NPT. Then lock tite and install a 3/8 allen head pipe plug, then drill center of plug and tap to bolt size. This is similar to the "thread xert" but because it is a tapered thread the pipe plug provides a much more tighter solid contact to the cast iron.
It can be done in the field accurately if a jig is made to center the 37/64 drill bit.
I have to agree with you on your comment. Both would work, but keeping the same layout would ensure the lock down brackets would not interfere with any thing else
Well,well,well, looks like I’ve found another great video that keeps me awake. Awesome job and videos. Now on to the next one.👍👍
i'd love to pick your brain about what this bit of kit is used for and why you chose this repair rather than porting out a bigger hole and putting in a courser/finer thread(depends on what cast it is) and drilling that and tapping it in the centre, i get the theory behind it that if the big bolt starts to slip then it won't be effected when torqueing the small bolts into it and this also contributes to offsetting the holes. much love from the UK from a fellow welder and machinist ;)
More than a welder!
All around repair guy!
R
E
S
P
E
C
T
!
Agree on the threaded inserts. The scariest place for thread repairs is when the parts get hot, as in combustion engine cylinders. Then you can't even rely on the Loctite. I once owned a Honda CB250RS, it was a mother to stop the oil leaks. Really soft alloy as well. Not as bad as East German mopeds from the 70s but still fairly bad. Würth threaded inserts worked a million times better than those Helicoil spirals. Spirals are for IUDs.
I would not dare tap on the mill without a tapping head though, and better to use taps that are actually meant for machine-tapping, which you recognize by the spiral flutes as far as I know. I suspect you could get a lot more use out of the mill. Look up a guy named Stefan Gotteswinter, awesome machining channel with loads of practical solutions presented in a harsh German accent.
He may overdo it with the precision at times, which for many of your applications is not necessary to _that_ degree. But on the other hand, the efficiency is hard to beat.
The other channel I love for demonstrating mill table mounting solutions is TheMetalRaymond, Spanish geezer with a big ass horizontal mill type boring machine.
I am in the heavy repair also ..Call me crazy but I love the challenge of a broke bolt or bad threads ... I like bearing retaining compound if i dont ever want it move thats so mean stuff ...Beautiful repair
Dear Crazy, I agree. love the challenge, but stressful after someone else has jacket up the bolt. I have a couple pieces I've saved in my tool box. I use them as reminder when I need encouragement.
I was told that cast iron requires no cutting fluid. Actually was told to not use it,but hey, it’s hard to argue with success. Nice job!
There is a lot of graphite in cast iron is why, I prefer to use coolant myself for well cooling, and dust control being as cast likes to turn to power
Many grades of Cast Iron, namely Ductile Iron (SG), have mechanical properties equivalent to medium carbon and low alloy steels, particularly those used in hydraulic manifolds. Therefore when machining with modern cutting tools, and speeds/feeds generally require coolant, traditional cast iron, or flake graphite Iron was machined dry, mainly due to having HSS cutting tools etc. If you look at the swarf (chips), they looked very similar to steel in shape and form.
Hope this helps.
@Bosted Tap that does help. Thank you!
This was so cool to watch, very intelligent knowledge on how to fix that mess👍💯
I’ve learned more from your videos than anyone elses.
Having the right tools a know how along with common sense sure does make a repair like this one a skill ! Great job ! Your knowledge of different types metals is a big part of successfully getting a job done correctly ! An its a pleasure watching overcome obstacles that customers bring to you to fix for them ! I hope the know how valuable an asset you are to them ! 👍👍
Not gonna lie , when you started power tapping those holes , you couldn't have driven a knitting needle in my butt with a 16 lb. Sledge .
Have removed plenty of taps with carbide end mills after hand cranking by gorillas.😮
Love the videos.
Lots of good memories.😊
Mr. you are a very Professional mechanic, in Eastern Europe (50 years ago) we have 3 thread taps in mm for one size. I was surprised when I see those treads with Springs. Maybe imported from Pakistan.
Heli-coils work perfectly fine for many things, but have to be installed correctly. They have no strength at all when not installed, and cannot be removed without ruining the coil. They are NOT "springs".
you should consider time-sert inserts. they are standard thread pitch and stackable. perfect for situations like this where the hole is totally blown out.
That's a different approach 2 thread repair, gotta luv it !!
😂😂😂😂
Great Channel 👍
New Subscriber
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That bridgeport you got looks to be in excellent condition I didn’t see any flex anywhere when you was initializing your bored if I tried that with my mill it’d do it but I’d have to really apply allot of pressure at the very beginning I typically do jobs like this in my radial arm drill tho amazing machine for these types of jobs
your not just a welder, your a machinist. that was a great repair. I would like to know how they stripped all 8 of those in the first place
It is a hydraulic breaker. Like a giant jackhammer that mounts to excavator. It pounds everything, even itself. They need complete rebuild and inspection every year. Opperator prob wacked the lines bolts off.
That was an awesome repair. Very creative! Great video.
Now that's what I call an awesome repair well done :)
Hey Greg I’ve seen some really interesting content of yours from big cat plant to mechanical conveyers at a recycling facility and now milling and lathe operation’s have you and those that are close a prosperous new year 2023 outstanding sir!
I think you’d be better off using the original holes to make 1” thread them in and then use those bolts bolts for the original size bolts. Safer that way especially If the machine it attaches to has non movable steel lines.
I do alot of this kind of thing and I agree with you
Would this basically be a "reducing stud"?
That would be ok if you didnt have to worry about the oring surface. Trying to make the studs offset would be a cunt. The hoses that mount there get replaced all the time.
Another awesome one! You don’t disappoint. Thanks
I'm happy that i came a cross you to day i can't tell you how nice it is to watch you and to see the old way are still out there you don't just do the jobs you perfect them thank you for sharing your day
Very Amazed .....light years better than the factory could have done !
I was worried about drilling half on half off the bolts thinking the bit would walk off to the the easier material to cut. I'm glad it worked out for you though
Novice: "Just fill the holes with JB Weld, redrill & tap, job done". 😂
It's very evident why they always call you back you do damn good work.
How did you get the center for four holes in the right place a little off and it would not work can you show us that sometime thanks for the good show
What torch? you left out one very important part of the video, like how you cut the threads without messing them up.
I was very surprised of the repositioning of the flange. Not to drill holes to the center of the bolts. Nice work! 👌
Just wondering why the center of the bolts would not be better? I would have went the center of the bolts.
@@kevinpeterson4098if he went on center the larger bolt would be able to back out.
Not likely, but especially on a hammer with heavy vibration and heat cycling it would be a possibility.
Being off center the filler bolt physically cannot turn.
@@christopherdickinson4291 No more likely to turn than the bolts holding the clamps down.
oh one more thing have you ever used spiral point and spiral flute taps i love them ...Great channel
Nothing wrong with a heli coil, maybe not a perfect repair but an effective one. I've held on motorcycle heads with them before, still put a couple thousand miles every year on one I fixed that way
Great job. I have never seen any buddy do it like that but a great idea. Thanks for the video.
Using bolts to fill the old holes is genius ha. Im putting that one in the ol' memory bank.. lol
I can hear the mechanic cussing when he has to wrench that one bolt in, atleast he has nice threads to cross haha. Nice work
I had my doubts but you proved me wrong
nice repair!
okay my friend wanted me to watch this, am I correct that you drilled it out, re-threaded the holes, put bigger bolts into it, then drilled the bolts out and used the bolts for the same size threading that they were before the repair? You absolute f*cking genius.
I use the same drill/tapping fluid, for years now, works pretty good.
somebody messed. up....you done good Brother.....well done
couple questions. do you have an idea why all the factory threads fsiled? the repairs that failed, doesnt seam like that is a repair that should be made in the field.
i love your idea on the fix.
Probably over tightened or put a sae bolt in a metric hole. The repair is fine in the field if done correctly.
Dang man--your confidence with that cutoff wheel--I could never
I thought about using bolts like this before, also pre drilling a hole in the center to reduce any hydraulic pressure, or air pressure pushing the lock tight out , i have even thought about trying jb weld on the threads, in a test situation first, that was when i was a dumb kid, and didn't know about lock tight
Helli Coil as thread repair is stronger than original threads especially if it threaded in Aluminium
I’d say the competition should be worried knowing that you could double your prices and you would still get the work.
Yep just like i would have done it, but i drive a truck and dont have a Bridgeport,excellent engineering there my man, should last out the life of the hammer,🇬🇧
Helicoils work well if used properly. Done hundreds or more. Why so large of bolt? Always best to only go large enough to cover damaged area in case they ever have to be redone in the future. Also could be voids or passages hit by going so large. Usually best to keep holes in original position if possible. You could have just pinned bolts. Not a good idea to drill and/or tap across two pieces, especially if different types. If a problem arises it will be there. Nice work though overall.
There’s always one
Very clever repair spot on thanks for sharing 🦘👍
Nice job fixing up a very expensive part
Excellent repair work. Top quality technique.
Great video! Keep up the good work! Thanks for sharing! 👍👌
By the way, that’s a very nice Bridgeport mill. Looks brand new!
That green glue or loctite don't play. Damn near the same as welding the hole shut with out the heat. Man id love to hear your back story. You groew up on a farm or in a machine shop one, if you are a Dad, happy fathers day.
nice work you make it look easy
How did you locate center on the holes for drilling? Asking for a friend lol 😂
nice work, I've changed manifolds like that and i know you saved them thousands of dollars
Looks like your mill head is trammed in really nice 👍!
From my Grandfather, I learn that got lard is the best to use when you are drill tapping, it was approx.60yers ago.
that looks like cast steel the way its chipping very good thread repair but I think the casing will still be scrap as the junction between the bolts will seep oil as a 1 inch sae flange has quite a big o-ring it looked like you had drilled through the flange witness mark you would have been better off setting a smaller diameter bolt and keeping the original alignment for the flanges as its easier to reference them as some half flange manufacturers have a gap at the tips
Nice to see a well done job - congrats man
could have turned the ol 0mm bolts down in tut lathe ,left the to bit turned to 10mm stickin out to slip the spigit over to hold tut oil pipe ye !!! just a thought , great work , lovely job ,regards from tut UK
all great thanks for sharing and giving me the best solution i was thinking about!
Nice job 👍 Ya-no-what?
Anti-seizure cures a million + 1 problems before they happen. I have never found it on a rusted clamp bolt yet.
Impressive work!
awesome way to repair that part.
When I worked for the Reece Corp.a buttonhole machinery company I used the same methods plus pinned each plug.
that was certainly something i had never seen before... cool
Is there a reason that you use air as opposed to vacuum to clean things up ? It would seem like you would want to collect that debris rather than spread it all around the shop .Seems it would keep it out of the recesses of the machinery as well .
Nice work. Did you consider keying the big bolts with a dowel pin permanently and keeping the original tap locations in the steel bolts?
I thought of that and several other options.
@@OFW I would add, use a bottom taps on the 1/2-13 bolt holes. Likely the problem started because someone was use to long of bolts and they trying to tighten then into the tapered thread at the bottom of the hole and then pulled the treads.
nice repair, didn't consider this way as an option. Did the tiny gaps left by the threading cause any problems with the o-rings?
I haven’t heard anything.
Wow that is Craftsmanship at its best !wonder what that would cost!🇨🇦
I think id look at tge possibly of using studs over bolts. to prevent excessive wear in the softer iron.
You sure that’s cast iron? It sure is making chips more like some sort of steel. Traditional cast iron will machine with super tiny chips that are almost like dust. Maybe it’s some sort of ductile iron.
Absolutely despise helicoils. Had an older Harley springer softail with 16 inch ape hangers. Was constantly having the risers strip out for what reason I'm not sure. Had them repaired with helicoils. While riding down I90 in Chicago my riser helicoil pulled right out causing me to almost crash my bike at 79 mph. I was lucky enough to get it on the shoulder before it completely broke off. Will never use those things again. They almost cost me my life.
Remember the name gardsert. They are a thread repair insert that works great.
Only thing I would do diffrent is I like to drill and then tap each hole without moving the table. Then you know you are perfectly centered on the hole. Not an issue with softer metals and bigger taps but if you do some smaller taps in something lime stainless it will work alot better for ya.
I've only watched 1/3 of the video. I assume that you centered the mill bit over each hole? You didn't show how you located the end mill. We know what assume means. Jim
I used my eyecrometer. The location of the end mill was not super critical.
Not sure why didn't drill and tap in same holes you filled.
But anyhoo great work as usual.
I was very angry when isaw you cut the bolte then i understand very nice job
Thanks this is awesome solution
Pretty amazing. You gotta know your stuff to be a welder.