2) its not perforated, its woven. They don't punch it with pinholes, they just weave it from strips. It is not meant to hold water, it is meant to carry water down and away and let vapor out of the wall. It does exactly what it is supposed to do, you are just using it wrong and the test was totally inappropriate for its intended use.
Simon, do you believe that a woven product that doesn't have self healing capability will properly sheathe driving rain? When you are using such a product against the building and there is no rainscreen, with building pressures as they are against the home the self woven product can also withstand minimal if any hydro-static pressure.. and no capillary break.... please kindly excuse my ignorance and educate me on why this is a good strategy in the envelope assembly for a long term solution?
Ranjiv Jain why is driving rain hitting your house wrap? the house wrap is supposed to move any moisture out of the building so it can dry and not let the materials get moldy or rot. it is not supposed to waterproof the building
Driving rain will NEVER hit the house wrap once the exterior is finished, siding , brick or stucco is what's gonna stop the water, the house wrap is supposed to let the house breathe.
The "flashing " should be installed over the sheeting and under the housewrap. We use a 12" strip of plastic instead of paper. It also is designed to be placed inbetweenst the brick layers at the base of the weep holes to allow moisture out of the 1" air space between the brick and the wall. It is not designed to stop water from going under the wall as mentioned. The house wrap shown is marketed as a vapor barrier and or wind stop designed to do exactly what it says. They make better such as Tyvek or Hardie wrap but both are still going to get holes in them with the addition of brick wall ties. The thermo-ply wall sheeting has been used for years here in FL and quite sturdy when installed properly. However, not the best choice in this climate. It gets wet ,holds moisture, makes fungi, and attracts termites. It's a termite buffet since it is primarily cellulose. The water heater box can be sealed with silicone or window tape or both. DV FP can be fixed with high temp sealant. It is also a pipe inside a pipe for the vent.I do believe there are better products on the market to build a better house. I also believe that you have jumped the gun on the things you have shown as most items are most likely not in the completely installed phase.
Matt, after some research, my own experience, and my trusty brother in-law (over 40 years building experience), I would only agree with 3 of the 5. And judging from the comments since the first time I watched this video, some of the comments posted would agree. Because of the areas where you have built homes, it may be the amount of experience with direct vent fire places or woven wrap. I also believe that the use of many materials are not suitable for certain areas. I have worked with home builders on the central eastern shore and builders up in the Appalachian Mountains and what a difference with materials. Of all of the videos of yours I have viewed, this is the only one I have commented on with any negativity. Many of the tips you have posted I have applied with success. I have purchased products and avoided purchasing other products based on some of your posts and product reviews. It has kept me out of a lot of trouble. Thank you! Keep up the great work.
You can put silicone around the pipes on a furnace. Not the silicone caulk you use on windows. It's a specific high-temp silicone made for that. You can buy it at any home improvement store and it meets code for Class A chimney installs. Consider - you use a silicone product to seal the oil pan to the engine block. That stuff is rated to 800F+.
Can't agree with you on direct vent gas fireplaces. I was in the hearth industry for a long time in northern Minnesota. Horizontal venting does not leak air into the house when installed properly. There are a number of products, including high-heat caulk, that work great at sealing the house and keeping it air tight. Additionally, the stand-off for the pipe is typically less than a foot since the hot exhaust gasses run on the inside pipe, not the outside. You can't can't run a fireplace, gas or wood, that is more energy efficient that DV gas. You can also make them look nice with accessories like screen doors that hide the glass. I do agree that cheap builders boxes, like the one in your clip, are an eyesore. Lastly, DV gas fireplaces run electricity free and can be placed on a thermostat. I lived in Duluth, MN and was without power for 4 days, but the house was toasty warm the entire time. Average temp that week was about 15 degrees. We actually had neighbors stay with us since their furnaces couldn't run. You really need to do some research before you knock a product that you are unfamiliar with.
I agree with the direct vent. They can be sealed with ease. I don't like ventless simply because they put a ton of moisture into the air. Especially if it's propane. Put one into our shore house and the condensate on the windows and colder outside facing walls was crazy.
I just had a direct vent natural gas fireplace unit installed and the tech put Roxul insulation around the flex pipe. My opening is insulated and sealed with caulc. A must in Canada.
Tim you are exactly right. Apparently Matt's experience with direct vent fireplaces are limited considering he lives in Texas. I've worked for the natural gas utility in St Louis Missouri for more than 35 years and serviced almost every brand manufactured to date. When installed correctly direct vent fireplaces are the only way to go. Matt is correct when he stated to avoid vent free fireplaces. Plus I'm a little confused what type of fireplace Matt would install . Are you saying not to install a fireplace at all?. I was without electric for 24 hours and my direct vent fireplace kept my house at a toasty 64 degrees when the high temperature in my neighborhood was at 24 degrees for the day and a low of 5 degrees at night.
Hi, I have a direct vent gas fire place which works really well in Ontario, Canada. Winter temps down to minus 30 C. The exhaust goes out via the INNER pipe, The incoming air through the outer casing so it stays relatively cool and can be well insulated. Quick to heat , automatic thermostat, runs a year on 2 AA batteries, no other power. 27000 Btu's.
Running the exhaust in a pipe inside the intake is done for a couple of reasons. 1. Needs only a single hole through the wall so there's less to seal, and no need for a heat resistant seal. 2. Improves efficiency by pre-heating the intake air somewhat. The longer the pipe run, the more heat transfers from the exhaust. A concentric pipe isn't needed for 95% or higher efficiency gas furnaces. Their exhaust is so cool they use PVC pipe. The fireplace in the video has its exhaust up through and out of a small space that will be sealed off from the room. Thus it's not at all like an open window.
I remember years ago adding a wood burning stove to my previous house. I used double wall class a vent pipe. I was able to seal all the openings with a calk that was made to take the heat (I forgot the name). The outer wall of the pipe would get warm at best while it was in use.
Hi Richard, what is the brand and model you bought and how long have you had it? I am looking to buy one and your's sounds like one I would be interested in. Thanks!
I used to think more of Matt but his generalization about a whole class of fireplaces is unfortunate. Properly installed a gas direct vent has an inner and outer firestop that can be caulked with high temp. RTV silicone according to most mfrs. The double walled vent pipe is tested to 25 Pascals. A DV does not use room air for combustion but provides great zone heating and a backup zone heat source in the case of a power outage. They are very efficient and often are used to heat one zone of a home for the day instead of the whole house. The net result can be energy savings. Since vented fireplaces are huge energy hogs and ventfree are lung vented I guess the only fireplaces Matt endorses are electric or gelled alcohol. Bad advice Matt. Read an installation manual please. Attend the HPBA show and sit in on some classes.
Ventless fireplaces are definitely not a huge NO-NO. It's safe, efficient and looks great. We love ours. What do you base your opinion on? Your mistaken about this option in fireplaces. Direct vent are about worthless, I agree with that assessment.
@@wadepotter5377 It's the other way around--ventless is worthless, since I don't want to breathe combustion byproducts, and DV is great since it doesn't use interior conditioned air and exhaust it to the outside.
@@wadepotter5377 Ventless fireplaces are 95 % efficient. I do not want to breathe in the other 5 %. Every time I go into a home with a ventless I can smell the fumes.
You should do a video of what to ask a home building company when your ready for a new house. Many folks like myself have no clue what is TOP choice or TRASH rip off. I thought of having a new Wayne Home built down the road, so this is why I am watching all sorts of home building videos, so Thanks for all the info! Good Stuff
On that topic actually I wonder why spray foam is used where silicone caulk would do. I totally understand spray form for window cavities but thats about it. I still seal windows with silicone then fill the cavity with spray foam. I don't really use it for anything else.
Duh is correct, I have never heard a poorer explanation of installation for a direct vent product. Even the slightest bit of research would have negated his negative submissions.
It seems the warm, dry and generally forgiving climate of Texas allows builders some latitude in cheapening out their specs and having the defeciencies be unoticable for a few years. In upstate NY the home owner will have the architect & GC on the phone in the first winter.
North Texas AND Austin are as the same as N.Y... The yankees are ALL OVER the place mister. And no matter what.. They'll complain. It's their natural DNA code
I've seen a lot of builds use Fortiflash here in Oregon and as a waterproofer I was always happy to see stucco, brick, or stone exteriors done that way. But they used the fortiflash CORRECTLY in conjunction with tyvek (under it) and it usually transitioned to concrete or up top and over the tyvek in the same fashion (if I remember correctly).
Reading these comments it's clear: everyone is an expert and everyone is an idiot. It's no wonder things can't get done right with so much misinformation going around. Even a professional can't make heads or tails of what choice to make on a product based on some of the discussions here. This is why industry standards are important but they can't really keep up with innovation in the home building arena. I don't envy you guys doing this for a living.
We live in an era in which FACTS, actual science-based, proven and tested FACTS, are "fake news". And the building trades are full of Trumptards. So, there ya go.
Like those houses of late 90’s that had the huge cutouts for the massive projection TVs. Oops, how is my new 16:9 ratio HD set going to fit into the old 4:3 hole? Oops, how can I hang my new 4K TV on the wall where this old 16:9 projector TV hole is? It’s big enough to be a closet.
sorry, you're talking out your rear about direct vent fireplaces. They are great product. They provide an economical power free heat source that can be thermostatically controlled even in a power outage. Just because you've never seen one installed correctly, doesn't mean its a bad product. Stick to your own trade. FYI you can use high temp silicon to seal the termination inside and regular silicon outside. On top of that, standard practice is to use firerated drywall and durarock in the concealed area. - Stephen the licensed gasfitter
Gas fireplaces are just dumb and waste a load of N. The emissions are awful compared to a HE furnace. Gas fireplaces are for the lazy or incapable of starting a wood fire, which is by definition a "fireplace" not a glass enclosed burner with asbestos glowing on plaster logs.
My house is heated by a wood fireplace, and I definitely like wood fires more, but the people buying million dollar homes where I work dont want to use wood, and like you said, they dont know how, so gas is the way to go since they all seem to love how they look and say they "need" a fireplace.
Ratboy, how well does that HE Furnace work for you when the motherfucking POWER IS OUT, these are for aesthetics and EMERGENCY HEAT, also real nice to be able to turn the fire off and not have to wait hours upon hours for the logs to finish burning.
direct vent gas heaters are great..up here in new england we install them all the time..apartments that had all electric baseboard for example ..not always practical to install furnace and run ductwork.
Great video. It is getting to the point where if you can't go full custom build, do a remodel of an older home instead. Tract/spec houses are thrown together with whatever is the cheapest stuff they can get away with. Lots of these tract/spec houses are going to need major and expensive fixes in 10 years or less.
No, not all spec homes are done cheaply. I know, because I have built very high quality specs in my time, not going cheap just for a bottom line result.
Agree. Dixon will be the exception, not the rule lol. I am in New Orleans and all the reconstruction I saw after Hurricane Katrina was fast and cheap. The only true quality houses I saw were the one where the home owner did not rush the job, vetted the contractors/subs and timeframe was well over a year. Texas home builders seem to have the worst reputation around here. Well, for me and my wife, the housing market crashed and the pregnancy test said time was not on our side. We purchased a good quality home that was built in 1972 instead of building new. The insulation and HVAC are lacking, but all other aspects of the house were sound. In about 10 years I will have the mortgage paid and will then start replacing the roof, insulation and all mechanical. Many people I know who built new homes after Katrina are already having problems with them; the biggest one being mold due to improper sealing and venting.
The reason the house wrap has holes is to allow moisture to pass through in cold climates. When houses started getting built (tight) there were a ton of water issues inside due to the house wrap not breathing. A house wrap isn’t meant to keep your insulation dry forever that’s what siding does.
That's right. Matt's not thinking. The moisture for a house in a cold climate is INSIDE the house. Is that different in a hot humid Southern location that not subjected to freezing? I'll let someone else say.
@@DavidJGillCA In Southern California, a basically hot, dry climate where everything dies in the Spring and sprouts green in the Winter, the house-wrap is to allow air-borne moisture to escape the interior of the home. As people sleep at night they exhale an completely unbelievable amount of moisture into the house atmosphere. If the house is wrapped in non-permeable plastic that moisture soaks into the walls and over time the interior of the drywall, etc., becomes moisture-laden or the water pools up at the bottom of all interior walls. We use mostly Stucco in SoCal and the Stucco actually "breathes" rather than be water-proof.
@@choimdachoim9491 Most newer nice homes have a dedicated dehumidifier, as well as heat pump water heaters. They will remove any excess moisture from inside the home. If you have SO much humidity inside that its soaking though the drywall, insulation and framing, and going out the sheathing, you have issues elsewhere.
@@ionstorm66 It's worth checking...people breathe out pints of water vapor each night during sleep and during the day while inside the home. The number is so high that I find it difficult to believe so I won't state it.
House wrap is not intended to create a water-tight barrier. It is designed to create a wind barrier, to reduce air infiltration and wind-driven rain. It is not meant to be water tight, but rather to allow moisture to pass through (namely from inside of the building to outside to prevent mildew and mold).
Agreed. Had Risinger done even a smidgeon of research by parsing product documentation within a handful of manufacturer sites, or perhaps discussed the merits of his speculative complaints with a given product's support representative, he might have a different perspective on some of the items that vex him as "dumb products". Risinger should pull this video, or at the very least edit it with accurate information.
Isn't this what they used to use tar paper for? Placed under roof tiles on a pitched roof, they used chicken wire mesh to support it, at least they did on my house. It breathes to prevent rot in the case of any water ingress, in strong winds for example. And stops draughts through the attic, which would otherwise be very cold in winter. Of course they knew diddly squat about insulation back then!
I was wondering when some one was going to get it correct! Very well stated MewCat100. Your Vapor Barrier is installed on the INTERIOR side of the wall. House wrap on the EXTERIOR wall, and is designed to allow the wall to breath, and any moisture to escape, thus preventing rot and/or mold from occurring in the wall cavity., and preventing winds and drafts from penetrating. I'm old school, and could never understand why Celotex, and 15# Building Paper are rarely used anymore. Your Building is suppose to BREATHE !!
Yes. Your last sentence is key and the phrasing is perfect. Buildings need to breathe, which is to say that air exchange MUST occur. The new "super-sealed" houses in my area, the ones that use spray foam insulation and thus have no vapor exchange at all, have vent fans that run 24/7 to keep air moving. I'd hate to rely on a mechanical device that can and will fail when I could just have passive vapor exchange. In fact, one of those homes had mildew in the first year after construction. An overly tight house is NOT a good thing. It is the same reason I tell people not to put plants right against the house, but to put them out at least 3 feet from the foundation. Let air move in and around your home to avoid the fungi and mildews that grow in damp, stale environments. Humans produce moisture by sweating and breathing as well as by cooking, showering, etc. If that moisture is trapped in the home, nasty things will grow. Vent fans, A/C, and heating systems are not enough to condition the air to avoid these problems. A home MUST breathe.
I thought the purpose of housewrap was to prevent air infiltration and drafts, but allow moisture to pass through - basically like the GoreTex jacket in the winter.
Joshua Powell in the US is there a requirement for clear cavities between the TF and the external facade? Here in the UK where we get a lot of wind driven rain and high exposure I typically see timber frame manufactures have a minimum 50mm clear cavity or have vertical battens (allows water ingress through external facade to flow downwards) with counter battens (hang facade if not using wall ties).
@@Iain31313 It's best practice to have a channel for moisture to exit the external façade. It's not always practice as it's not necessary in some places like the desert that sees 1~2" of precipitation yearly.
@Tony Humbert Not only that, he's using a horizontal test of standing water to a product that is meant for a vertical application. BTW the product is not advertised as "Waterproof".
Matt, I'm with you on most of this stuff, but I'm curious if we could use something like Kaowool or other ceramic insulations designed for kilns and other hot work applications to break that air leak possibility. They should have no problem being against a fireplace vent..
I have never seen a critical video on bad products and i loved it. We non builders don't have the time to research everything that is put in our new home. There's to much to deal with as it is
I agree with the cardboard sheathing. That's just ridiculous and I've never even heard of it in Canada. Although when it comes to the recessed tankless unit, I know that with all the window flashings and waterproofing details you know so well, you could come up with a great way to seal that unit. Also we use double wall vents on our fireplaces that can be spray foamed around.
Good video. I've been saying the same thing for over 20 years about Tyvek and how it's junk, but at the same time, you HAVE to have the holes in it or vapor drive will soak your insulation. I seen that happen so many times back in Wisconsin. In the winter time, moisture wants to go from hot to cold, and that's why homes are so dry in the winter, because vapor drive has the warm moist air wanting to go through your wall to the colder outside. If you have Tyvek with no holes, all that moisture will condensate on your plastic and sit in your walls and then you have a disaster on your hands. It's like laying a sheet of plastic on your lawn and see how much moisture condensates on it in 10 minutes, but that's the inside of your walls. It's the same thing with your garage floor in the summer, and why it is soaking wet. The moisture in the air condensates on the cooler garage floor making it wet. I always had to smile and walk away when I hear people say it's moisture coming UP through the floor from the ground. I mean that's like saying my cold beer is coming through the glass bottle when I take it out of the refrigerator and set it on the table. I've always said Tyvek is like wrapping your home with a furnace filter....it filters out the bugs as the wind blows through it. Now I spray foam and never worry about vapor drive again. If the warm moist inside air does not know it's cold outside, it has no reason to be attracted to your walls. Plus spray foam actually glues your home together and I read an article many years ago from....I believe Texas A&M, about how spraying foaming increases your homes strength by 20%, and that's a lot when you're talking hurricane force winds. Anyway, keep up the great work.
You comment makes no sense, you dont put tyvek and insulation together, they shouldn't even be touching each other. Tyvek goes over wood like OSB. And behind that wood is your insulation. And if you used regular waterproof plastic it would do exactly what you described because it would pool water vapor. They are permeable for a reason...
I always thought house wraps were meant to be breathable. The hung plastic on the inside of the house behind the drywall is the leak proof barrier. The breathable outside wrap is designed to let air pass in and out so any accumulated water behind the wrap can evaporate. Am i missing something?
hey Matt... I love that sheathing for use as floor protection... you can lay it over your hardwood floors, tape the seams together.. and reuse it many times on future projects... It sucks for house sheathing though.. just like you said
In regards to the fireplace, where to start.... I am a certified Master Hearth Professional by The National Fireplace Institute and I have been installing these direct vents for years. Yes, I agree, that is a cheesy log set in that fireplace. It is also one of the cheapest direct vents on the market (builder grade). It's not designed to look that great or provide a lot of heat. Builders buy these to say that the house has a gas fireplace and that it is a direct vent. There are several direct vent fireplaces that have an extremely "real" looking log set and can be used as a secondary, if not a main, source of heat. I also agree that you cannot insulate around the pipe. But you can seal it and that is done around the cap on the outside of the house with 100% silicon. That mitigates any transfer of air from the outside to the heating envelope of the house. When properly installed, direct vents are the best fireplace option when it comes to efficiencies, safety and indoor air quality. Vent free products release the byproducts of combustion into the house( C0, C02, H20), and vented products(wood-burning or B-Vent) leave a direct hole that is between 5-15" in diameter from your living space to the outside through which a great deal of your conditioned air will flow. Direct vent fireboxes are completely sealed off from the inside of the house. All of the combustion air it needs draws from the outside through the pipe and it also exhausts through a different chamber in the pipe. So, yes, if you are going to have a fireplace in your house and you are worried about indoor air quality and not loosing any of your conditioned air(that you have to pay for) I would go with a direct vent everyday of the week. No question.
So question, he mentions nothing can touch the exhaust pipe. Does this apply the heat ducts? My basement got wet on my RV during the flood 2wks ago in Texas. RV is fine. The insulation got wet. So...im replacing the basement fiberglass insulation. There is 2 heat vents running thru the basement, and im curious how to insulate around them. Furnace is propane. Insulation is the PinkPanther fiberglass insulation. Im halfway thru with the project, and as of today...the heater vent ducts have the fiberglass upagainst them. I removed the paperbacking from the insulation, beings that it will be near the heater vent ductwork
Please do more research, regarding Fireplaces - Selkirk offers an insulation for use with their Cathedral Box, Attic Shields, and Wall Thimbles. The insulation helps to keep heat in vent/chimney, and reduces air infiltration into the home.
I guess hes never heard of high temp silicone sealer, available at any HVAC supplier. You really shouldnt be making these videos if your going to start talking about stuff outside of your knowledge base.
@@markuschelios6891 Its absolute code in canada. This guy would get a stop work order anywhere in Ontario. Watch his video on 24 inch OC studs for exterior load bearing. Lol. He calls it advanced framing.
I’m not knowledgeable about house building principles that’s why I watch your videos. If ventless and vented fireplaces are a bad idea, then what type of fireplace should I have for backup heat?
With all respect to Mr Risinger of Texas, he may be missing some info about how we do things up in The North. There are solutions for the problems he mentions. Start by checking some of the comments right here.
Toll Brothers is one of the nations largest builders and they use the paper based sheathing. Terrible builder that relies on impressive initial looks and transient white collar buyers who will abandon the properties and get relocated after 3-5 years when everything is falling apart. Yep, I bought one of their houses:)
Bob Pritchard another one of those type of Builders is d.r. Horton. my buddy bought one of their houses after 6 years the kitchen floor is bouncing. the connection rings on his Plumbing where all corroded and leaking in his walls. he had a water stain in his ceiling because someone faced nailed shingles on his roof. even though every house settles his was ridiculous. every room has massive cracks in all the corners. none of the doors in the house will open properly now. but man it look really impressive when he first bought it. 3 years past his warranty!
Perforated house wrap is for vertical surfaces only. Pooling water on it while flat is not a true representation of performance. That being said, it is typically marketed and used as an all purpose house wrap when the design is really intended for cavity walls w/ wood structure.
My favorite part of this video is all the contractors and professionals in the comments stepping up their "uhm actually" and dropping some fact bombs! XD
My favorite part of this video is all the contractors and professionals in the comments stepping up their "uhm aktchually" and dropping the same BS that results in crappy construction today.
The little test on house wrap shows your misunderstanding of the building systems. First it would not be used on a flat surface and second you want it to breath. You do not want a plastic bag over your house. Mold and moister will just ruin the house
Regarding direct vent fireplaces... My wife really wants a fireplace in our next home... which we're shopping around for this month. I've had family members all put in direct vent fireplaces without incident so far (I was counting on that being an option), but really don't want to install something that will be a huge pain in 15yrs when I'm no longer up for doing the work... Assuming the aesthetic isn't the issue for us, what gas fireplace variant is viable for a 20yr+ install -- Or, what wood fireplace problems should I look out for if the house has one already?
The flue in a direct vent can be sealed with high-temp caulking and insulated with types of rockwool. Did I miss the "insulating paint" and radiant film in attic spaces?
Had a ventless gas FP in my home since 1996. Never had an issue with it and I still never have to turn it past the lowest setting. It feels good on cold winter nights and when it finally fails, it'll be replaced with another. Say what you want about 'em, they are a thumbs up in my opinion.
House wrap is not there to be waterproof. Its job is to slow airflow and therefore heat transfer. With the chipboard shown in these examples, if you were to install a waterproof membrane, the sheathing would be rotten in no time from the lack of water dissipation because of the water being trapped in the walls. All houses have a air exchange formula which is the amount of air moved through the building. There is an air quality index linked to this and contributes to the overall houses lifespan as well. A following side note is fireplaces have really no place in a modern building. This is only an expression of vanity and not reality. I'll take some hits for that but it is the truth. Otherwise, you points were well made.
So I’m building a house and it used to come standard with a ventless fireplace, but now they are using a 42in direct vent. So if you say these are a bad idea, what do you recommend? A wood burning fireplace with chimney? What are other alternatives you recommend?
I'll have a a fully secured 3/4" plywood floor under me (on top of attic joists) so not likely to fall through that. The rafters are at a steep angle (10/12 pitch - 40 degrees) so I may have to tack something to hold them up in place until I can put a thin layer of foam board under them :-0) HEY! Wait a minute! How did you know my living room was under my attic?
My top DUMBEST product is easily insulating paint!! A huge scam that keeps coming back every couple years. I almost had clients insulate their home with this, before they came to me.
There are some insulating paints that actually work - some of them were developed for protecting parts of the space shuttle. It's basically hollow ceramic microspheres suspended in paint. Works really well, I use it in engine bays and bare floors when restoring vintage cars. The temperature difference can be as much as 40 degrees or more. Surfaces that would burn you are now only warm. But this is specific application, I don't think it would do anything on a house....
I believe that does not actually count as insulation it just changes the radiation properties due to emissivity. (I'm not sure that is technically correct, but it is something like that) In terms of insulation for a home with a much lower delta T across the thermal control layer the paint does not actually reduce heat flow. There have been tests run to show that "insulating paint" has no benefit for insulating a home.
You are correct for extremely high temperatures. I have seen it used effectively for lowering the exterior temperature of flue pipes in mechanical rooms. I'm not sure that actually reduces the heat flow like actual insulation would. I guess this might be acting as a radiation barrier.
@@ckm-mkc These paints are radiant barriers not insulation. Heat can be transfered in 3 different ways : conduction, convection and radiation. An insulating material slow down conduction heat transfer while a radiant barrier slow down radiant heat transfers. A radiant barrier alone is totally useless in a house as most heat move through conduction and convection. The only exception would be the roof and your windows if you live in a very sunny climate. This is why green builders focus on improving the insulation (conduction resistance) and air tightness (convection resistance) of their house and not on radiant barriers.
Some comments do reply to variables, but I totally agree with the recessed water heater box complaint. The example shown is in a garage anyway, so why not install it inside of the space where it not only is protected from weather (especially COLD weather), but can be accessed for service or replacement. Also agree with the exterior wall cardboard sheathing. One very important job for sheathing is to stiffen the structure... especially when using vinyl lap siding or other thin veneers of any kind.
House Wrap is absolutely supposed to be sealed Air Tight and is what would be considered water proof if done properly. Your cladding hopefully will shed the majority of the water but there will always be some moisture behind it due to condensation and the effect of wind loading driving moisture behind it. This can be helped by strapping your walls and creating an air gap between your exterior wall and cladding, but the building envelope still requires a Weather resistant barrier(Tyvec) to protect the structure from water. When Building an energy efficient house the principles are similar if you are in a heating or cooling climate. The main difference is going to be the direction of your vapor drive. In a HEATING CLIMATE the vapor drive will be from the humid warm interior to the dryer colder exterior. So you want the Vapor permeability of your materials to increase as you get closer to the exterior side of your wall. This encourages any condensation or moisture the happens to get in your wall to move to the exterior and dry. This is why 6 mill poly is used on the warm side of wall and Tyvec on the exterior. This guy is right in the sense that using a plastic wrap with holes in it is a bad Idea. You want your WRB Layer(tyvec) to be Air Tight but vapor permeable. You can and want as many Air barriers in your building Envelope as you can manage, but only one vapor barrier. If you take a section of your house you should be able to follow the air barrier layer with your finger in a complete circle around it without lifting your finger from the drawing. This layer can be your tyvec or 6 mill poly, or a combination or something else. A few of other items the guy mentions are going to be subject to your construction environment. Some materials and methods that are perfectly acceptable in Texas would be a disaster in Seattle.
Exactly. These idiots that think we're supposed to seal our houses up 100 percent air tight are nuts. They're the ones with mold problems etc! Gotta let it breathe!
You can seal a house up tight with the interior vapor barrier but you have to rely on a good mechanical system to keep cycling in new air and the old out. The walls should always breath though, so the building wrap needs to do that. I've seen trouble with guys putting rigid insulation on the exterior of a house, taping the joints, and sealing in moisture. Technically even then your interior vapour barrier should be tight enough to stop the mold getting through, but your walls/insul won't like that trapped moisture. I have seen walls, typically in the US south, that have no vapour barrier and expect the entire house to breath. If I recall this had to do with humidity issues along with no need to worry about cold winters.
yes but there are breathable foils that keep water out but able tho breath we call it Dampfsperre or Dampfbremse no idea what its calld in enlich but its for abour 15-35€ 1m² and it works very good, keeps water out but moist on the inside is able to pass thou to the outside. those perforated or woven foils are rubish.
Yup the house wrap is designed to breathe to let moisture dry out. Even if you had a waterproof house from the outside moisture can come from the inside. I could see him saying the felt paper is bad for roofing cause it's not water proof. It's not the final finish that normally keeps most of the water out. Just a matter of time the houses he builds get's mold or something else and a class action lawsuit is against him to rip his nest egg right out from underneath him. I think his goal is to build a 100% air tight house so his customers die of carbon monoxide poisoning.
It's not just the risk for fire from contact between the metal exhaust and combustibles....it's the risk for deformation of the vent pipe if its heat isn't allowed to dissipate into free air.
@@hailexiao2770 I think you need to research ceramic fiber blanket. And, depending on what # density, you will find it is used for thermal insulation of stoves, fireplaces, pizza ovens, kilns, forges, furnaces.
As far as the housewrap is concerned, you don't want something that is going to be 100% water proof if it's not adhered to the surface of the sheathing (i.e. something like ice and water shield). The perforations are to keep a little bit of water on the outside from getting in, but also to let moisture out because of sweating and vapor movement because of the airspace between the sheathing and the moisture/vapor barrier. Similar to if you wear a rubber raincoat, it's not letting any water out so you sweat to the point of being dripping. that moisture could lead to rot, mold or other issues. Enter semipermeable membranes, since no structure is ever fully resistant to moisture moving in an out, the moisture barrier needs to protect against moisture from the outside and let vapor out as well. It really is the airspace in between that is the problem, which is why something like ice and water shield would be a great product for the exterior of buildings, however cost prohibitive. A simple fix for the paper based membrane around the outside bottoms of the walls is to leave a 3/4" gap between the cut side of the sheathing and the membrane contacting the slab. As the OP says, it's better to use a asphalt based sticky product that will adhere to the slab. Alternatively, sealing the cut edge of the sheathing with some wood-seal product would likely do the trick, but i reckon the issue there is that most houses are built too quickly to waste time with extra measures for quality. Most of the time it's all about building to code, or trying to find ways to cut corners around the code. I'm not a fan of either. I would prefer it be a little more expensive to use excellent building practices and use products that go beyond what the codes say.
Hi there, people have invented these wonderful things called Tents, that are 100% waterproof (from the outside) but breathe by allowing moisture buildup from the inside to migrate outward. Proper Housewraps do the exact same thing. You 100% want it to be waterPROOF (from the outside).
Good video.. Only issue....the direct vent fireplace part...there is caulk you could use for the vent..you said you can't put anything there when, in fact, there is high heat fireplace caulk that could be used.
We installed a direct vent fireplace as an insert into an old wood burning fireplace during our renovation. It brings in fresh air from the chimney and exhausts back to chimney via stainless steel pipes. Chimney is sealed off with a cap and this fireplace is a sealed box unit with no air leak whatsoever and works wonderfully for us.
There are many products available for sealing the flue of a direct vent gas fireplace. If you have a quality fireplace, it will tell you right in the user manual what product to use.
housewrap isn't meant to be 100% waterproof, a house needs to be able to BREATH so any moisture in the wood sheathing can escape out through the housewrap, your SIDING and Flashing should keep water off your housewrap directly and the small amounts that get through don't have penetrating power to blast through a vertical housewrap.
So what type of replacement products do you recommend for these? Mostly curious about the fireplace, as I am hoping to begin building a home up in Minnesota in the next couple years.
Awesome video Matt and Team. Great work very helpful. As Matt mentioned some of the worst items for home building. That paper based insulation put in by the builder, or that gas fireplace installed by the builder, what would be better options for replacements for some of these items to correct these for these existing homes built this way? I.e replace that paper insulation with spray foam + FG insulation, replace the gas fireplace with electric fireplace?
Some gas venting basics are required here. The gas vent is constructed of a smaller 4 inch pipe inside a larger 10 inch pipe. This is called a coaxial vent. The hot air pipe is in the center of the cool air pipe. There is an air gap in between the 2 pipes which limits the heat transfer. The outside of the 10 inch pipe is cool to the touch. If it wasn't constructed this way, your house would catch fire. Cool air for burning is drawn into the firebox via the circular air gap between the diameters of the 2 pipes. The clearance required between the cool outer pipe and combustible materials is one inch minimum, that is what the wall adapter plate is for. The gap you show in this video can be sealed using regular silicone. The firebox is sealed and allows no air to flow in or out of the house. Hot air is circulated by a fan around the outside of the sealed firebox to extract heat from the unit and heat the room. Very efficient and no drafts, they are completely sealed. The high temperature silicone sealant everyone in this threat is referring to is used to seal the inner pipe to prevent it from leaking carbon monoxide. The firebox does get quite hot and the typical requirement is for non combustible material 12 inches above and 4 inches per side. This means you need metal studs, concrete board and clay tiles at these boundaries.
Agreed I was surprised he mentioned he didnt like through wall window AC units. Same reasoning as the water heater. Now those are basically always a retrofit on an old house, but still water will get in.
Number 5 you should get a clue...high temperature caulking is commonly used in this application. To say there is no way to seal it to be air tight is wrong. Also a Direct vent fireplace is the best type of gas product to use period. You should gain more knowledge of what your talking about before you make ridiculous comments to be fact...
not sure if that is a joke, Is there any risk involved? does this need a vent for real? does the heat come from turning electricity into heat or gas into heat, where I would understand the risk.
I know someone that lives in a multi million dollar mansion that went double over budget and 2 plus years over build deadline and has only been lived in for two years and is constantly having issues all over the house especially with the geothermal set up and I'm constantly finding things that were done wrong and with no care for the customer and longevity of the house. Would love for u to come out and do an episode on the house. Maybe she could build a portfolio and she the builder or inspectors or something lol
The house wrap isn’t supposed to be waterproof bud. It’s supposed to shed away water, not be waterproof. Some research will inform you why, however don’t get it from a UA-cam expert. This guy wants to tent the house with waterproof impermeable barriers and let the house rot from trapped moisture. Great tips!
Happy holidays Matt. Thanks a lot for all your videos. I’ve devoured many today. A question, I’ve ordered a montigo delray with a flue going straight up 2 story great room, without masonry work. DRL4813NI-2 FULL LOAD: Montigo DelRay 48 - 21,000 BTU NG model equipped with Proflame 2 IPI, reflective glass panels, downlighting, remote control, fan kit, Invisimesh screen. GCA019. Is this system a problematic one ? I’d like to know what you think of this. Thanks in advance for your consideration.
OHFORPEATSAKES my exact thought, he even contradicts himself by saying it's supposed to be permeable yet 2 seconds later has a problem with it not being waterproof
He has an alternative, he doesn't use these products on the million dollar homes he builds. Those frames in the video with the moist-stop and Thermo-ply aren't homes he would build.
@@justinb9010 Matt Risinger meant VAPOR PERMEABLE. Water resistant barriers (housewraps, etc.) are there to prevent WATER from getting through, but allow vapor to get through, so that vapor that gets into the cavity has a means of getting out (so that condensation cannot form inside the wall), so that the wall can dry to the outside. Water and vapor are two totally different things.
When installed correctly a direct vent gas fireplace is the most efficient fireplace you can buy. I'm pretty sure there's a lot more experience in the north and northeast when it comes to fireplace installs...
Sure, but a fireplace is primarily an aesthetics appliances and heating a home should be left to your primary heating system which is vastly more efficient than any gas fireplace
Matthew Naugler Klassen How old are you sir? You obviously are not that old and did not ever have a family member or friend with a very old home with a Heatilator fireplace or any of the similar style that did heat a home!
@matthew That's too funny - I used to live in a house in Maine where the primary heating system was a wood stove. Even when it was -30 F, you had to open a window when it was fully stoked... And this was a log cabin construction with _zero_ insulation. With a masonry chimney going through the bedrooms (one on each side) it would still be in the 50's in the morning... In contrast, I lived in another conventionally stick framed house with double glazing (also in Maine) and hot water oil heating - the glass of water on my night table was often frozen solid in the morning. The other upside of the wood stove is that it kept you in very good shape as you needed to cut & split 4-5 cords of wood in the fall. The wood was free.
@@ckm-mkc yeah but your watching a video by a builder who's advocating for building better homes, a leaky house that requires a constantly burning wood fire isn't very effective regardless of the cost of the wood
On the last one about the hot vented fireplace, you can seal it with fireproof caulk. I use it all the time on induction motors on gas packs and exhaust stacks for restaurants. It’s red and rated for heat
No offence, you're wrong about the direct vent fireplace. They do make a high temperature caulking to seal, that are rated for high temp applications. So? Care to enlighten us?
House wraps are one of the best improvements in new home construction. The product acts as a wind breaker for the entire home. Wind causes a lot of thermal loss due to its nature. The way new homes are built there is small gaps everywhere that allows small amounts of outside air to make its way through the siding into the insulation then to the drywall resulting in higher hvac cost. If a house is wrapped it stops the air, it acts as a windbreaker for the entire home. The wrap is designed to allow moisture to move through it so the house can breath. This guy thinks it should act like plastic. In most parts of the country if u would wrap a house in plastic within a year the house would have mold everywhere due to moisture getting trapped inside the walls. Houses have to allow moisture in and out Aka breath. House wraps can cut hvac cost depending on the location and siding around 30%. They are a great product this guy is 100% ignorant on the product and should do research before he says anything. A simple google search would saved his reputation
I agree. It's not supposed to be waterproof. If you want to live in a cave, make it waterproof. Houses breath. It's the difference you can feel when you are in a commercial block building or a home. Also his waterproof test doesnt represent the way the wrap is installed. It's not installed horizontally flat. Its installed vertically. Perhaps sometimes not always flat, (sloped walls on some complicated architecture). But 99%of the time on a flat vertical wall. I agree with the recessed tankless idea, but you can seal these with foam or silicone caulk and perhaps install a flashed hood over it to divert water if he is really concerned. It can be fixed with final siding installation.
@@zgarrett14 \ i bought same stuff for my garage. Same kind he has and it said something like "air seal" don't recall anything about water sealing. Was confused when he said it was for water.. Ty for info
These are really great videos, describing the do's and don'ts of building a house. As an electrician I see a lot of these products and as an electrician in Texas I find a lot of the building methods substandard/questionable at best. Matt thanks for making these videos! As a hopeful some day home buyer I'll be looking for the qualities you prescribe. This video especially was enjoyable, keep up the good work both on the job site and on UA-cam!
No argument from me on any of these. I'm just a homeowner (Bi-level) in Cincinnati, OH. We built our home in 1980-81 from one of the cheapest builders around. It has the cardboard sheeting you mentioned. We have never had an issue in 40 years. We did have a major issue with the poured concrete foundation when the steel clips to hold the forms rusted out. The leak cost us new carpeting and drywall in the lower level family room.
Im an electrician on a project now , and the building is has all 5 of these products...sort of sad. We all do our jobs as best as we can, but we all joke how the building will only last 10 years. Really sad. Its all about low cost for them.
Even I as a young carpenter I advised my boss about LP siding when we used it on some high end homes. That was all we did along with remodels and light commercial. I also advised him against Woodruff roofing made from treated Masonite. Both which had to be replaced with in a year. When I ventured of to form my own company, laminate flooring was just being sold here. After one glance I told the owner of this house not to use it because I knew it would warp soon after putting it down, because of the bottom not sealed at the same level as the surface. I was my only employee with exception to my 35 years older best friend who was a plumber and electrician. We would keep each other employed so we could both be working when it was slow for one of us. This house was 97 feet long and the addition I was building was 90 degrees from it and needed massive amounts of flooring. We installed it and it warped. Fortunately, only the kitchen was done first and we had to tear it up. Any good carpenter or builder should know all these types issues, such as expansion and contraction, etc.walls breath no matter how tight you think it is. Hot air out in day, cold damp air in evening.
In reality though, this is literally a form of "job security". We get double the work over a normal trade career because we can go build the replacement too. We don't work for quality and pride in our work anymore, we work for money, because money is all that matters.
@@imgoingtotellyourmom , OR.... all of us can make a point of working for quality, and if that's not what the boss wants, we find a different job. it's an attitude we must all have if we're to get our society back. if we can't do that then yeah, all is lost.
@@elliotmaleski5275 He's the guy with the shiny pickup on low profile tires that sells the job. Not the guy with the dusty pickup on proper tires that actually does the job. Whatever product has the highest margin is the one he will argue is best for the customer. Soft hands indeed.
He bashes all these different ancillary products while ignoring in the background all over the outside of the house the "elephant in the room" ie. the oriented strand board (OSB) which he does refer to once or twice as "OSB", but without telling the truth about it. It saves you a miniscule amount over plywood, which I would use only if I had to but OSB is terrible. It's nothing more than non-oriented chips and slivers of wood held together with some kind of resin. It therefore doesn't have the intrinsic strength against pressure which plywood, with multiple layers or plies in opposite planes has, and it has too much plastic binder which out gasses. Furthermore, it wicks up water faster and dries out slower than plywood and OSB just won't hold nails over time. They back out. There's just no justification for use of OSB on the sides of houses and especially on the roof and in "engineered" I-beam floor joists where it has no reason to be. Jeez, spend a couple hundred dollars extra on real plywood over an entire 2 story home and it'll last forever. If I were to be having a house built for me in a high humidity environment I'd even look into the cost differential in using marine grade plywood. I just can't believe that he ignored the OSB. You literally couldn't pay me enough to use it.
Thank you! My Dad hates OSB (and drywall...the humanity! 😲) with a passion. If it wasn't hardwood or plywood, it wasn't in our house. I grew up with his standards and unfortunately they've stuck. Dad's a shipwright and a luthier, among other things. Many jokes about a cut not being spot on were had growing up. Now I can't own a house without it being a giant project to rehabilitate the poor thing. 🤣
Matt, what we ordinary people need are construction techniques that most any builder can do well. We who aren't millionaires can't afford to hire engineers or elite contractors to build our homes. So, if there are products and/or design strategies that can produce a good envelope that most any contractor can do, that's what we need.
The problem with many of these people that want to build houses "to last" is the price. If we built a foundation "to last" and built walls "to last" and built a roof "to last" none of us could afford a house at that point. This video points out that there are better options out there however it doesn't point out the cost of "building it to last" in all aspects of the house.
@@brandona.deimel5155 it used to be possible before communism, socialism, and swag took over. Now you have to be a super rich pajama boy with a PhD in Latte Machiato to afford amything. It's cool though. Change is coming. And when it does the streets will be paved with the teeth of the useless. The world is about to explode. WW III is coming. Germany is one vote away from becoming a Nazi state again. And that vote is next month. If the AFD win majority, the EU will implode and drag the world into a nasty war all over again. America doesn't have the scrotum or the balls in it that we used to to actually stick out and win a real war. The soldiers hands are hog tied by politicians and socialists. Way to go baby boomers. You have set the stage for a world war in a world that is totally interconnected and full of nuclear and biological weapons. The American dream is dead. So is any hope if advancement in humanity. Maybe after the great war we can get back to being a species of progress instead of a Bastian of bullshit. You pajama boys better cut back on the double soy expressos and bleach those teeth more. I want my driveway to shine.
Calm down matt mostowicz. There's no sense in frightening the sheep before you slaughter them. It spoils the meat. *If* you are right, we are far too close to the edge to turn the tide now. Best you can do is dig in and stay calm. Don't expose yourself or panic those around you, as they are far more likely to be a danger to you than to your enemy.
You lost your credibility with the house wrap. It was never intended to lay flat. It is designed to go vertical. The pin pricks are facing out. The slight rain water (IF ANY) runs down the sheet and down not get inside. The pin pricks is to let humidity leak out for mold prevention. Also the direct vent fireplace. The hot air goes out the inter pipe. The cold outside air comes in the outer pipe. This prevents the hot pipe from toughing the frame work. I would never hire your to do my contracting.
There are plenty of high heat sealers and insulation. Although I don’t really care for the fake logs either. Sometimes a wood fireplace is not allowed in the town / city so the fake one will suffice.
I work in heating and air. A big problem we see today are homes that are TOO sealed up. Air gets stagnant and unhealthy. It's not a bad thing to have some loss as long as its waterproof. If you do seal a house up real tight, be sure to add some makeup air to pull some fresh air outside into the conditioned air.
I know this post is three years old and I hope you have watched or gone to enough trainings to know there is no such thing as TOO tight or "sealed up." You can use ERV's, HRV's or just a regular ventilator to bring in fresh air and have it filtered in the return air ducting before entering the breathable air space. All new current day furnaces, air handlers and the like are designed to run a CF (Continuous fan- low speed of course). One of his most recent videos has an install and a gal from Mitsubishi showing a horizontal air handler / heat pump setup that does exactly what I am referring to above. All new home builds should be running these super-efficient and healthy options. Have you seen some of the results from these blow door tests? Crazy tight homes that I never imagine would exist. My company does HVAC and Home Performance upgrades. It is a new world and Matt is showing us the future.
@@patjohn775 There is no simple option. If you avoid the complexity of having active ventilation in a tight house, you're taking on water problems, pest problems and wasting lots of money on energy bills forever. Not sure why some people want to rationalize that sharing a house with rodents and bugs or pesticides is healthier than controlled airflow.
Hope you learned how wrong you are through watching more modern content. A tight house absolutely does "breath" in the sense of drawing in fresh air, it just does it in a controlled manner using an ERV or HRV which is orders of magnitude more efficient than having a leaky house.
I've installed it in every major city in Texas and in surrounding states. This was years ago but I know it's still used in track houses built in central Texas. Some codes make you put some metal on your walls as you approach the coast.
I've seen the paper sheathing a few times during remodels here in Hawaii. And yes the original builders do use it as sheeting. Studs, cardboard, then lap siding. Some may say that the shear is coming from cross bracing from straps but there were none to be found. Just because it's not used in all areas doesn't mean he's wrong about it being used.
You're factually wrong on several accounts in this video. After watching, I went to the comments and found each of my criticisms to be well articulated by others. You should probably familiarize yourself with a product's technical data before proceeding to base your opinion on how you "feel".
If you're going to install a fake fireplace, you might as well get the LED incerts, and many give of a decent amount of heat, plus you can turn it on any time of the year for the ambiance and not have the heat come out. Plus, they have some that look great, and can change the color of the flames.
On the vireplace vent use a product called RTV it’s good for continuous 400-600 degree exposure and can withstand up to 900 degrees before degrading. Also good for dealing as it is extremely tacky, expands and contracts, along with sticking to most any surface. We use this product on industrial boilers in a power plant. Mostly used for doors and piping gasket but easily withstands the heat.
Dumb building product? A wrap that lets the house dry is dumb? I tend to think the guy trying to say you shouldn’t let your house breathe has never dealt with mold
2) its not perforated, its woven. They don't punch it with pinholes, they just weave it from strips. It is not meant to hold water, it is meant to carry water down and away and let vapor out of the wall. It does exactly what it is supposed to do, you are just using it wrong and the test was totally inappropriate for its intended use.
Simon, do you believe that a woven product that doesn't have self healing capability will properly sheathe driving rain? When you are using such a product against the building and there is no rainscreen, with building pressures as they are against the home the self woven product can also withstand minimal if any hydro-static pressure.. and no capillary break.... please kindly excuse my ignorance and educate me on why this is a good strategy in the envelope assembly for a long term solution?
Simon I second what Ranjiv says, and would also like to know your knowledge on the matter.
Ranjiv Jain why is driving rain hitting your house wrap? the house wrap is supposed to move any moisture out of the building so it can dry and not let the materials get moldy or rot. it is not supposed to waterproof the building
@@RanjivJain you should not have driving rain hitting your house wrap. That's why you have siding
Driving rain will NEVER hit the house wrap once the exterior is finished, siding , brick or stucco is what's gonna stop the water, the house wrap is supposed to let the house breathe.
The "flashing " should be installed over the sheeting and under the housewrap. We use a 12" strip of plastic instead of paper. It also is designed to be placed inbetweenst the brick layers at the base of the weep holes to allow moisture out of the 1" air space between the brick and the wall. It is not designed to stop water from going under the wall as mentioned. The house wrap shown is marketed as a vapor barrier and or wind stop designed to do exactly what it says. They make better such as Tyvek or Hardie wrap but both are still going to get holes in them with the addition of brick wall ties. The thermo-ply wall sheeting has been used for years here in FL and quite sturdy when installed properly. However, not the best choice in this climate. It gets wet ,holds moisture, makes fungi, and attracts termites. It's a termite buffet since it is primarily cellulose. The water heater box can be sealed with silicone or window tape or both. DV FP can be fixed with high temp sealant. It is also a pipe inside a pipe for the vent.I do believe there are better products on the market to build a better house. I also believe that you have jumped the gun on the things you have shown as most items are most likely not in the completely installed phase.
Matt, after some research, my own experience, and my trusty brother in-law (over 40 years building experience), I would only agree with 3 of the 5. And judging from the comments since the first time I watched this video, some of the comments posted would agree. Because of the areas where you have built homes, it may be the amount of experience with direct vent fire places or woven wrap. I also believe that the use of many materials are not suitable for certain areas. I have worked with home builders on the central eastern shore and builders up in the Appalachian Mountains and what a difference with materials. Of all of the videos of yours I have viewed, this is the only one I have commented on with any negativity. Many of the tips you have posted I have applied with success. I have purchased products and avoided purchasing other products based on some of your posts and product reviews. It has kept me out of a lot of trouble. Thank you! Keep up the great work.
As a plumber from Canada, must be nice to be able to run water lines in an outside wall
Cant here in conn either
We don't even do that in Illinois
Work for 2 years in canada and, coming from a country you can run plumbing on an outside wall, kept forgetting that. Hahaha
I live in tennessee and its even a huge no no here.
@@bjordhaaland9649 I see water lines in outside walls all the time in the greater Nashville area.
You can put silicone around the pipes on a furnace. Not the silicone caulk you use on windows. It's a specific high-temp silicone made for that. You can buy it at any home improvement store and it meets code for Class A chimney installs.
Consider - you use a silicone product to seal the oil pan to the engine block. That stuff is rated to 800F+.
Can't agree with you on direct vent gas fireplaces. I was in the hearth industry for a long time in northern Minnesota. Horizontal venting does not leak air into the house when installed properly. There are a number of products, including high-heat caulk, that work great at sealing the house and keeping it air tight. Additionally, the stand-off for the pipe is typically less than a foot since the hot exhaust gasses run on the inside pipe, not the outside. You can't can't run a fireplace, gas or wood, that is more energy efficient that DV gas. You can also make them look nice with accessories like screen doors that hide the glass. I do agree that cheap builders boxes, like the one in your clip, are an eyesore.
Lastly, DV gas fireplaces run electricity free and can be placed on a thermostat. I lived in Duluth, MN and was without power for 4 days, but the house was toasty warm the entire time. Average temp that week was about 15 degrees. We actually had neighbors stay with us since their furnaces couldn't run. You really need to do some research before you knock a product that you are unfamiliar with.
I agree 100%.Direct vent or vent free are very efficient.If installed correctly all air gaps are sealed with the correct sealant..👍
I agree with the direct vent. They can be sealed with ease. I don't like ventless simply because they put a ton of moisture into the air. Especially if it's propane. Put one into our shore house and the condensate on the windows and colder outside facing walls was crazy.
I just had a direct vent natural gas fireplace unit installed and the tech put Roxul insulation around the flex pipe. My opening is insulated and sealed with caulc. A must in Canada.
Tim you are exactly right. Apparently Matt's experience with direct vent fireplaces are limited considering he lives in Texas. I've worked for the natural gas utility in St Louis Missouri for more than 35 years and serviced almost every brand manufactured to date. When installed correctly direct vent fireplaces are the only way to go. Matt is correct when he stated to avoid vent free fireplaces. Plus I'm a little confused what type of fireplace Matt would install . Are you saying not to install a fireplace at all?. I was without electric for 24 hours and my direct vent fireplace kept my house at a toasty 64 degrees when the high temperature in my neighborhood was at 24 degrees for the day and a low of 5 degrees at night.
Have to agree with you Tim.
for the fireplace vent they make a caulking that is High temp. to seal those types of leaks. It gets the job done and will take the heat. Great video.
Hi, I have a direct vent gas fire place which works really well in Ontario, Canada. Winter temps down to minus 30 C. The exhaust goes out via the INNER pipe, The incoming air through the outer casing so it stays relatively cool and can be well insulated. Quick to heat , automatic thermostat, runs a year on 2 AA batteries, no other power. 27000 Btu's.
Running the exhaust in a pipe inside the intake is done for a couple of reasons. 1. Needs only a single hole through the wall so there's less to seal, and no need for a heat resistant seal. 2. Improves efficiency by pre-heating the intake air somewhat. The longer the pipe run, the more heat transfers from the exhaust. A concentric pipe isn't needed for 95% or higher efficiency gas furnaces. Their exhaust is so cool they use PVC pipe. The fireplace in the video has its exhaust up through and out of a small space that will be sealed off from the room. Thus it's not at all like an open window.
Yep. They work really, really well when the installer knows how to install them.
I remember years ago adding a wood burning stove to my previous house. I used double wall class a vent pipe. I was able to seal all the openings with a calk that was made to take the heat (I forgot the name). The outer wall of the pipe would get warm at best while it was in use.
Hi Richard, what is the brand and model you bought and how long have you had it? I am looking to buy one and your's sounds like one I would be interested in. Thanks!
Good comment.
I used to think more of Matt but his generalization about a whole class of fireplaces is unfortunate. Properly installed a gas direct vent has an inner and outer firestop that can be caulked with high temp. RTV silicone according to most mfrs. The double walled vent pipe is tested to 25 Pascals. A DV does not use room air for combustion but provides great zone heating and a backup zone heat source in the case of a power outage. They are very efficient and often are used to heat one zone of a home for the day instead of the whole house. The net result can be energy savings. Since vented fireplaces are huge energy hogs and ventfree are lung vented I guess the only fireplaces Matt endorses are electric or gelled alcohol. Bad advice Matt. Read an installation manual please. Attend the HPBA show and sit in on some classes.
Ventless fireplaces are definitely not a huge NO-NO. It's safe, efficient and looks great. We love ours. What do you base your opinion on? Your mistaken about this option in fireplaces.
Direct vent are about worthless, I agree with that assessment.
Well, whoops on his part.
@@wadepotter5377 It's the other way around--ventless is worthless, since I don't want to breathe combustion byproducts, and DV is great since it doesn't use interior conditioned air and exhaust it to the outside.
@@wadepotter5377 if you love pumping water vapor into your I guess it's cool
@@wadepotter5377 Ventless fireplaces are 95 % efficient. I do not want to breathe in the other 5 %. Every time I go into a home with a ventless I can smell the fumes.
You should do a video of what to ask a home building company when your ready for a new house. Many folks like myself have no clue what is TOP choice or TRASH rip off. I thought of having a new Wayne Home built down the road, so this is why I am watching all sorts of home building videos, so Thanks for all the info! Good Stuff
It is like buying anything. Every detail must be in writing or you get short changed by someone.
@6:10 Furnace Cement is made specifically for fireplace vent applications. It also has a higher temperature rating than high temp silicone.
I installed gas fireplaces for years. You can use red high temp silicone around that collar and rock wool insulation. Duh!!
I literally just asked that before I seen your comment. Thank you for confirming my suspicions.
Agree, I also have used automotive sealant and Rockwool insulation.
On that topic actually I wonder why spray foam is used where silicone caulk would do. I totally understand spray form for window cavities but thats about it. I still seal windows with silicone then fill the cavity with spray foam. I don't really use it for anything else.
In The USAF the Jet Mechanics used an orange colored silicone...
I believe it is the silicone that is used for the highest temperature applications
Duh is correct, I have never heard a poorer explanation of installation for a direct vent product. Even the slightest bit of research would have negated his negative submissions.
It seems the warm, dry and generally forgiving climate of Texas allows builders some latitude in cheapening out their specs and having the defeciencies be unoticable for a few years. In upstate NY the home owner will have the architect & GC on the phone in the first winter.
North Texas AND Austin are as the same as N.Y... The yankees are ALL OVER the place mister. And no matter what.. They'll complain. It's their natural DNA code
Houston is not dry and they still use some of the same materials. Same foil covered cardboard sheathing. They should be shot!
Also in Illinois
I've seen a lot of builds use Fortiflash here in Oregon and as a waterproofer I was always happy to see stucco, brick, or stone exteriors done that way. But they used the fortiflash CORRECTLY in conjunction with tyvek (under it) and it usually transitioned to concrete or up top and over the tyvek in the same fashion (if I remember correctly).
Reading these comments it's clear: everyone is an expert and everyone is an idiot. It's no wonder things can't get done right with so much misinformation going around. Even a professional can't make heads or tails of what choice to make on a product based on some of the discussions here. This is why industry standards are important but they can't really keep up with innovation in the home building arena.
I don't envy you guys doing this for a living.
We live in an era in which FACTS, actual science-based, proven and tested FACTS, are "fake news". And the building trades are full of Trumptards. So, there ya go.
I couldn't agree more lol
Tankless heater - dollars to donuts, when it comes time to replace it, the new model won't fit in the recess.
Good point, Chip. They'll probably install the new unit on the inside wall and leave the old unit there!
🍩🍩🍩
Like those houses of late 90’s that had the huge cutouts for the massive projection TVs. Oops, how is my new 16:9 ratio HD set going to fit into the old 4:3 hole? Oops, how can I hang my new 4K TV on the wall where this old 16:9 projector TV hole is? It’s big enough to be a closet.
wet bar was my use but there was a lav on the other side of the wall so water, drain and a vent, were just right there.
so don't build a recess, flush mount it to the damn wall.
sorry, you're talking out your rear about direct vent fireplaces. They are great product. They provide an economical power free heat source that can be thermostatically controlled even in a power outage. Just because you've never seen one installed correctly, doesn't mean its a bad product. Stick to your own trade. FYI you can use high temp silicon to seal the termination inside and regular silicon outside. On top of that, standard practice is to use firerated drywall and durarock in the concealed area.
- Stephen the licensed gasfitter
Gas fireplaces are just dumb and waste a load of N. The emissions are awful compared to a HE furnace. Gas fireplaces are for the lazy or incapable of starting a wood fire, which is by definition a "fireplace" not a glass enclosed burner with asbestos glowing on plaster logs.
.... I mean..... that's a special kind of.... I mean.... really?
My house is heated by a wood fireplace, and I definitely like wood fires more, but the people buying million dollar homes where I work dont want to use wood, and like you said, they dont know how, so gas is the way to go since they all seem to love how they look and say they "need" a fireplace.
Ratboy, how well does that HE Furnace work for you when the motherfucking POWER IS OUT, these are for aesthetics and EMERGENCY HEAT, also real nice to be able to turn the fire off and not have to wait hours upon hours for the logs to finish burning.
direct vent gas heaters are great..up here in new england we install them all the time..apartments that had all electric baseboard for example ..not always practical to install furnace and run ductwork.
Great video. It is getting to the point where if you can't go full custom build, do a remodel of an older home instead. Tract/spec houses are thrown together with whatever is the cheapest stuff they can get away with. Lots of these tract/spec houses are going to need major and expensive fixes in 10 years or less.
AJourneyOfYourSoul You’d be fortunate if the home outlasted the mortgage
No, not all spec homes are done cheaply. I know, because I have built very high quality specs in my time, not going cheap just for a bottom line result.
Agree. Dixon will be the exception, not the rule lol. I am in New Orleans and all the reconstruction I saw after Hurricane Katrina was fast and cheap. The only true quality houses I saw were the one where the home owner did not rush the job, vetted the contractors/subs and timeframe was well over a year. Texas home builders seem to have the worst reputation around here.
Well, for me and my wife, the housing market crashed and the pregnancy test said time was not on our side. We purchased a good quality home that was built in 1972 instead of building new. The insulation and HVAC are lacking, but all other aspects of the house were sound. In about 10 years I will have the mortgage paid and will then start replacing the roof, insulation and all mechanical. Many people I know who built new homes after Katrina are already having problems with them; the biggest one being mold due to improper sealing and venting.
Yep. I bought one. My first house. Sold it for a tidy profit too. It was a complete piece of crap and an embarrassment.
I have installed 2 ventless blue burn heater in my home for past 18 years and I my whole family love them
what model are they..thanks
The ventless is against fire code in my area
The reason the house wrap has holes is to allow moisture to pass through in cold climates. When houses started getting built (tight) there were a ton of water issues inside due to the house wrap not breathing. A house wrap isn’t meant to keep your insulation dry forever that’s what siding does.
That's right. Matt's not thinking. The moisture for a house in a cold climate is INSIDE the house. Is that different in a hot humid Southern location that not subjected to freezing? I'll let someone else say.
@@DavidJGillCA In Southern California, a basically hot, dry climate where everything dies in the Spring and sprouts green in the Winter, the house-wrap is to allow air-borne moisture to escape the interior of the home. As people sleep at night they exhale an completely unbelievable amount of moisture into the house atmosphere. If the house is wrapped in non-permeable plastic that moisture soaks into the walls and over time the interior of the drywall, etc., becomes moisture-laden or the water pools up at the bottom of all interior walls. We use mostly Stucco in SoCal and the Stucco actually "breathes" rather than be water-proof.
@@choimdachoim9491 Most newer nice homes have a dedicated dehumidifier, as well as heat pump water heaters. They will remove any excess moisture from inside the home. If you have SO much humidity inside that its soaking though the drywall, insulation and framing, and going out the sheathing, you have issues elsewhere.
@@choimdachoim9491 stucco breathes but what about the tar paper under it? for decades now tar paper has been used under stucco.
@@ionstorm66 It's worth checking...people breathe out pints of water vapor each night during sleep and during the day while inside the home. The number is so high that I find it difficult to believe so I won't state it.
House wrap is not intended to create a water-tight barrier. It is designed to create a wind barrier, to reduce air infiltration and wind-driven rain. It is not meant to be water tight, but rather to allow moisture to pass through (namely from inside of the building to outside to prevent mildew and mold).
Agreed. Had Risinger done even a smidgeon of research by parsing product documentation within a handful of manufacturer sites, or perhaps discussed the merits of his speculative complaints with a given product's support representative, he might have a different perspective on some of the items that vex him as "dumb products". Risinger should pull this video, or at the very least edit it with accurate information.
Shouldn't we just keep the water out all together?
Isn't this what they used to use tar paper for? Placed under roof tiles on a pitched roof, they used chicken wire mesh to support it, at least they did on my house. It breathes to prevent rot in the case of any water ingress, in strong winds for example. And stops draughts through the attic, which would otherwise be very cold in winter. Of course they knew diddly squat about insulation back then!
I was wondering when some one was going to get it correct! Very well stated MewCat100. Your Vapor Barrier is installed on the INTERIOR side of the wall. House wrap on the EXTERIOR wall, and is designed to allow the wall to breath, and any moisture to escape, thus preventing rot and/or mold from occurring in the wall cavity., and preventing winds and drafts from penetrating. I'm old school, and could never understand why Celotex, and 15# Building Paper are rarely used anymore. Your Building is suppose to BREATHE !!
Yes. Your last sentence is key and the phrasing is perfect. Buildings need to breathe, which is to say that air exchange MUST occur. The new "super-sealed" houses in my area, the ones that use spray foam insulation and thus have no vapor exchange at all, have vent fans that run 24/7 to keep air moving. I'd hate to rely on a mechanical device that can and will fail when I could just have passive vapor exchange. In fact, one of those homes had mildew in the first year after construction.
An overly tight house is NOT a good thing. It is the same reason I tell people not to put plants right against the house, but to put them out at least 3 feet from the foundation. Let air move in and around your home to avoid the fungi and mildews that grow in damp, stale environments. Humans produce moisture by sweating and breathing as well as by cooking, showering, etc. If that moisture is trapped in the home, nasty things will grow. Vent fans, A/C, and heating systems are not enough to condition the air to avoid these problems. A home MUST breathe.
I thought the purpose of housewrap was to prevent air infiltration and drafts, but allow moisture to pass through - basically like the GoreTex jacket in the winter.
Goretex stops reasonable amounts of water.
depends on the type of wrap. in the north they want to prevent air and drafts, in the south we want to prevent moisture.
Joshua Powell in the US is there a requirement for clear cavities between the TF and the external facade? Here in the UK where we get a lot of wind driven rain and high exposure I typically see timber frame manufactures have a minimum 50mm clear cavity or have vertical battens (allows water ingress through external facade to flow downwards) with counter battens (hang facade if not using wall ties).
@@Iain31313 It's best practice to have a channel for moisture to exit the external façade. It's not always practice as it's not necessary in some places like the desert that sees 1~2" of precipitation yearly.
@Tony Humbert Not only that, he's using a horizontal test of standing water to a product that is meant for a vertical application. BTW the product is not advertised as "Waterproof".
Matt, if direct vent gas log is a bad idea then what is the difference in the venting of a tankless water heater venting through the roof?
Switch to an electric heat pump water heater.
Matt, I'm with you on most of this stuff, but I'm curious if we could use something like Kaowool or other ceramic insulations designed for kilns and other hot work applications to break that air leak possibility. They should have no problem being against a fireplace vent..
I was thinking about that too. Non flammable and extremely heat resistant. Should work fine.
Gez, just caulk it with RTV.
I have never seen a critical video on bad products and i loved it. We non builders don't have the time to research everything that is put in our new home. There's to much to deal with as it is
I agree with the cardboard sheathing. That's just ridiculous and I've never even heard of it in Canada. Although when it comes to the recessed tankless unit, I know that with all the window flashings and waterproofing details you know so well, you could come up with a great way to seal that unit.
Also we use double wall vents on our fireplaces that can be spray foamed around.
A direct vent fireplace is no different than a wood burning stove that is direct vented. Easily made air tight and insulated if installed properly.
Good video. I've been saying the same thing for over 20 years about Tyvek and how it's junk, but at the same time, you HAVE to have the holes in it or vapor drive will soak your insulation.
I seen that happen so many times back in Wisconsin. In the winter time, moisture wants to go from hot to cold, and that's why homes are so dry in the winter, because vapor drive has the warm moist air wanting to go through your wall to the colder outside. If you have Tyvek with no holes, all that moisture will condensate on your plastic and sit in your walls and then you have a disaster on your hands. It's like laying a sheet of plastic on your lawn and see how much moisture condensates on it in 10 minutes, but that's the inside of your walls.
It's the same thing with your garage floor in the summer, and why it is soaking wet. The moisture in the air condensates on the cooler garage floor making it wet. I always had to smile and walk away when I hear people say it's moisture coming UP through the floor from the ground. I mean that's like saying my cold beer is coming through the glass bottle when I take it out of the refrigerator and set it on the table.
I've always said Tyvek is like wrapping your home with a furnace filter....it filters out the bugs as the wind blows through it.
Now I spray foam and never worry about vapor drive again. If the warm moist inside air does not know it's cold outside, it has no reason to be attracted to your walls. Plus spray foam actually glues your home together and I read an article many years ago from....I believe Texas A&M, about how spraying foaming increases your homes strength by 20%, and that's a lot when you're talking hurricane force winds.
Anyway, keep up the great work.
You comment makes no sense, you dont put tyvek and insulation together, they shouldn't even be touching each other. Tyvek goes over wood like OSB. And behind that wood is your insulation. And if you used regular waterproof plastic it would do exactly what you described because it would pool water vapor. They are permeable for a reason...
I always thought house wraps were meant to be breathable. The hung plastic on the inside of the house behind the drywall is the leak proof barrier. The breathable outside wrap is designed to let air pass in and out so any accumulated water behind the wrap can evaporate. Am i missing something?
Sounds like you're putting the wrap on the wrong side of the walks.
hey Matt... I love that sheathing for use as floor protection... you can lay it over your hardwood floors, tape the seams together.. and reuse it many times on future projects... It sucks for house sheathing though.. just like you said
In regards to the fireplace, where to start.... I am a certified Master Hearth Professional by The National Fireplace Institute and I have been installing these direct vents for years. Yes, I agree, that is a cheesy log set in that fireplace. It is also one of the cheapest direct vents on the market (builder grade). It's not designed to look that great or provide a lot of heat. Builders buy these to say that the house has a gas fireplace and that it is a direct vent. There are several direct vent fireplaces that have an extremely "real" looking log set and can be used as a secondary, if not a main, source of heat. I also agree that you cannot insulate around the pipe. But you can seal it and that is done around the cap on the outside of the house with 100% silicon. That mitigates any transfer of air from the outside to the heating envelope of the house. When properly installed, direct vents are the best fireplace option when it comes to efficiencies, safety and indoor air quality. Vent free products release the byproducts of combustion into the house( C0, C02, H20), and vented products(wood-burning or B-Vent) leave a direct hole that is between 5-15" in diameter from your living space to the outside through which a great deal of your conditioned air will flow. Direct vent fireboxes are completely sealed off from the inside of the house. All of the combustion air it needs draws from the outside through the pipe and it also exhausts through a different chamber in the pipe. So, yes, if you are going to have a fireplace in your house and you are worried about indoor air quality and not loosing any of your conditioned air(that you have to pay for) I would go with a direct vent everyday of the week. No question.
So question, he mentions nothing can touch the exhaust pipe.
Does this apply the heat ducts?
My basement got wet on my RV during the flood 2wks ago in Texas.
RV is fine. The insulation got wet.
So...im replacing the basement fiberglass insulation.
There is 2 heat vents running thru the basement, and im curious how to insulate around them.
Furnace is propane.
Insulation is the PinkPanther fiberglass insulation.
Im halfway thru with the project, and as of today...the heater vent ducts have the fiberglass upagainst them.
I removed the paperbacking from the insulation, beings that it will be near the heater vent ductwork
Please do more research, regarding Fireplaces - Selkirk offers an insulation for use with their Cathedral Box, Attic Shields, and Wall Thimbles. The insulation helps to keep heat in vent/chimney, and reduces air infiltration into the home.
2 words Smart trim, I can't tell you how many i've seen these beautiful homes with that coated OSB trim.
The trim in my house is coated MDF.
OSB is a fire trap
@@02dag32 OSB = Oriented Sponge Board
I guess hes never heard of high temp silicone sealer, available at any HVAC supplier. You really shouldnt be making these videos if your going to start talking about stuff outside of your knowledge base.
all silicone is high temp
Even better 3M has a fire stop or fire barrier rated seal that you use a chalk gun or insulation. Even better than silicon or anything.
Sorry macthemec Building code prohibits that kind of band-aid fix.
Markus Chelios sorry Markus, what you said isnt the truth and you should go back to drinking your soy lattes in a cubicle now.
@@markuschelios6891 Its absolute code in canada. This guy would get a stop work order anywhere in Ontario. Watch his video on 24 inch OC studs for exterior load bearing. Lol. He calls it advanced framing.
I’m not knowledgeable about house building principles that’s why I watch your videos. If ventless and vented fireplaces are a bad idea, then what type of fireplace should I have for backup heat?
With all respect to Mr Risinger of Texas, he may be missing some info about how we do things up in The North. There are solutions for the problems he mentions. Start by checking some of the comments right here.
Matt Risinger is really good. Knows his shit, and has good intuition.
Toll Brothers is one of the nations largest builders and they use the paper based sheathing. Terrible builder that relies on impressive initial looks and transient white collar buyers who will abandon the properties and get relocated after 3-5 years when everything is falling apart. Yep, I bought one of their houses:)
Sounds like a hefty toll indeed.
Toll Brothers house ...equivalent name is Walmart house
Toll Bros aren't cheap though.
troll brothers make real garbage...
Bob Pritchard another one of those type of Builders is d.r. Horton. my buddy bought one of their houses after 6 years the kitchen floor is bouncing. the connection rings on his Plumbing where all corroded and leaking in his walls. he had a water stain in his ceiling because someone faced nailed shingles on his roof. even though every house settles his was ridiculous. every room has massive cracks in all the corners. none of the doors in the house will open properly now. but man it look really impressive when he first bought it. 3 years past his warranty!
Perforated house wrap is for vertical surfaces only. Pooling water on it while flat is not a true representation of performance.
That being said, it is typically marketed and used as an all purpose house wrap when the design is really intended for cavity walls w/ wood structure.
House wrap is intended as an air infiltration barrier, not a water barrier.
and to boot if you watch carefully he moved the cup and wrap within the supposed 4 minute time frame its comical to watch
Home Central It’s not an air infiltration barrier. It’s a bulk water barrier.
My favorite part of this video is all the contractors and professionals in the comments stepping up their "uhm actually" and dropping some fact bombs! XD
My favorite part of this video is all the contractors and professionals in the comments stepping up their "uhm aktchually" and dropping the same BS that results in crappy construction today.
Anything to make an excuse to keep costs low and profits high
The little test on house wrap shows your misunderstanding of the building systems. First it would not be used on a flat surface and second you want it to breath. You do not want a plastic bag over your house. Mold and moister will just ruin the house
Regarding direct vent fireplaces... My wife really wants a fireplace in our next home... which we're shopping around for this month. I've had family members all put in direct vent fireplaces without incident so far (I was counting on that being an option), but really don't want to install something that will be a huge pain in 15yrs when I'm no longer up for doing the work... Assuming the aesthetic isn't the issue for us, what gas fireplace variant is viable for a 20yr+ install -- Or, what wood fireplace problems should I look out for if the house has one already?
The flue in a direct vent can be sealed with high-temp caulking and insulated with types of rockwool. Did I miss the "insulating paint" and radiant film in attic spaces?
Had a ventless gas FP in my home since 1996. Never had an issue with it and I still never have to turn it past the lowest setting.
It feels good on cold winter nights and when it finally fails, it'll be replaced with another. Say what you want about 'em, they are a thumbs up in my opinion.
House wrap is not there to be waterproof. Its job is to slow airflow and therefore heat transfer. With the chipboard shown in these examples, if you were to install a waterproof membrane, the sheathing would be rotten in no time from the lack of water dissipation because of the water being trapped in the walls. All houses have a air exchange formula which is the amount of air moved through the building. There is an air quality index linked to this and contributes to the overall houses lifespan as well.
A following side note is fireplaces have really no place in a modern building. This is only an expression of vanity and not reality. I'll take some hits for that but it is the truth.
Otherwise, you points were well made.
So I’m building a house and it used to come standard with a ventless fireplace, but now they are using a 42in direct vent. So if you say these are a bad idea, what do you recommend? A wood burning fireplace with chimney? What are other alternatives you recommend?
Very Good points. Worked in Plumbing Sales as a construction noob. Got in a lot of trouble for trying to sell someone a direct vent gas fireplace....
pinhole wrap is PERFECT for my old-style breathing house! heh
I plan to use that perforated house wrap to wrap mineral wool batts for an itch free installation in the attic rafters :-0)
I'll have a a fully secured 3/4" plywood floor under me (on top of attic joists) so not likely to fall through that. The rafters are at a steep angle (10/12 pitch - 40 degrees) so I may have to tack something to hold them up in place until I can put a thin layer of foam board under them :-0)
HEY! Wait a minute! How did you know my living room was under my attic?
Nah you'd want something that actually blocks water while being super vapor permeable, like Tyvek.
This video Matt you totally showed your lack of construction experience in the materials you showed
I agree
Tply is a HORRIBLE Product and I don't know why that stuff passes code
Sticking with Mike Holmes :-p
I think he is mostly a sales man TV personality , not really a builder . but Customer like guys like him . who talk a lot , I know some one like him
Actually, just shows how shit construction is in the US.
My top DUMBEST product is easily insulating paint!! A huge scam that keeps coming back every couple years. I almost had clients insulate their home with this, before they came to me.
There are some insulating paints that actually work - some of them were developed for protecting parts of the space shuttle. It's basically hollow ceramic microspheres suspended in paint. Works really well, I use it in engine bays and bare floors when restoring vintage cars. The temperature difference can be as much as 40 degrees or more. Surfaces that would burn you are now only warm. But this is specific application, I don't think it would do anything on a house....
I believe that does not actually count as insulation it just changes the radiation properties due to emissivity. (I'm not sure that is technically correct, but it is something like that) In terms of insulation for a home with a much lower delta T across the thermal control layer the paint does not actually reduce heat flow. There have been tests run to show that "insulating paint" has no benefit for insulating a home.
You are correct for extremely high temperatures. I have seen it used effectively for lowering the exterior temperature of flue pipes in mechanical rooms. I'm not sure that actually reduces the heat flow like actual insulation would. I guess this might be acting as a radiation barrier.
No I do not mean that, I wish I did. I mean paint that "claims" to act as insulation.
@@ckm-mkc These paints are radiant barriers not insulation. Heat can be transfered in 3 different ways : conduction, convection and radiation. An insulating material slow down conduction heat
transfer while a radiant barrier slow down radiant heat transfers. A radiant barrier alone is totally useless in a house as most heat move through conduction and convection. The only exception would be the roof and your windows if you live in a very sunny climate. This is why green builders focus on improving the insulation (conduction resistance) and air tightness (convection resistance) of their house and not on radiant barriers.
Some comments do reply to variables, but I totally agree with the recessed water heater box complaint. The example shown is in a garage anyway, so why not install it inside of the space where it not only is protected from weather (especially COLD weather), but can be accessed for service or replacement. Also agree with the exterior wall cardboard sheathing. One very important job for sheathing is to stiffen the structure... especially when using vinyl lap siding or other thin veneers of any kind.
House Wrap is absolutely supposed to be sealed Air Tight and is what would be considered water proof if done properly. Your cladding hopefully will shed the majority of the water but there will always be some moisture behind it due to condensation and the effect of wind loading driving moisture behind it. This can be helped by strapping your walls and creating an air gap between your exterior wall and cladding, but the building envelope still requires a Weather resistant barrier(Tyvec) to protect the structure from water.
When Building an energy efficient house the principles are similar if you are in a heating or cooling climate. The main difference is going to be the direction of your vapor drive. In a HEATING CLIMATE the vapor drive will be from the humid warm interior to the dryer colder exterior. So you want the Vapor permeability of your materials to increase as you get closer to the exterior side of your wall. This encourages any condensation or moisture the happens to get in your wall to move to the exterior and dry. This is why 6 mill poly is used on the warm side of wall and Tyvec on the exterior.
This guy is right in the sense that using a plastic wrap with holes in it is a bad Idea. You want your WRB Layer(tyvec) to be Air Tight but vapor permeable. You can and want as many Air barriers in your building Envelope as you can manage, but only one vapor barrier. If you take a section of your house you should be able to follow the air barrier layer with your finger in a complete circle around it without lifting your finger from the drawing. This layer can be your tyvec or 6 mill poly, or a combination or something else. A few of other items the guy mentions are going to be subject to your construction environment. Some materials and methods that are perfectly acceptable in Texas would be a disaster in Seattle.
one mistake is that the house wrap isnt supposed to be sealed, it is supposed to breathe.
Yeah I am no expert. But wouldn't sealing it tight, trap moisture and create mold?
Exactly. These idiots that think we're supposed to seal our houses up 100 percent air tight are nuts. They're the ones with mold problems etc! Gotta let it breathe!
You can seal a house up tight with the interior vapor barrier but you have to rely on a good mechanical system to keep cycling in new air and the old out. The walls should always breath though, so the building wrap needs to do that. I've seen trouble with guys putting rigid insulation on the exterior of a house, taping the joints, and sealing in moisture. Technically even then your interior vapour barrier should be tight enough to stop the mold getting through, but your walls/insul won't like that trapped moisture.
I have seen walls, typically in the US south, that have no vapour barrier and expect the entire house to breath. If I recall this had to do with humidity issues along with no need to worry about cold winters.
yes but there are breathable foils that keep water out but able tho breath we call it Dampfsperre or Dampfbremse no idea what its calld in enlich but its for abour 15-35€ 1m² and it works very good, keeps water out but moist on the inside is able to pass thou to the outside. those perforated or woven foils are rubish.
Yup the house wrap is designed to breathe to let moisture dry out. Even if you had a waterproof house from the outside moisture can come from the inside. I could see him saying the felt paper is bad for roofing cause it's not water proof. It's not the final finish that normally keeps most of the water out. Just a matter of time the houses he builds get's mold or something else and a class action lawsuit is against him to rip his nest egg right out from underneath him. I think his goal is to build a 100% air tight house so his customers die of carbon monoxide poisoning.
Ceramic Insulation for the
thru-the-wall vent pipe.
Classified to 1600°C or 2912°F
And R-10 per inch.
It's not just the risk for fire from contact between the metal exhaust and combustibles....it's the risk for deformation of the vent pipe if its heat isn't allowed to dissipate into free air.
Yeah I'm gonna doubt that. The best spray foam is R-7.4 per inch on a good day.
@@hailexiao2770 I think you need to research ceramic fiber blanket.
And, depending on what # density,
you will find it is used for thermal insulation of stoves, fireplaces, pizza ovens, kilns, forges, furnaces.
As far as the housewrap is concerned, you don't want something that is going to be 100% water proof if it's not adhered to the surface of the sheathing (i.e. something like ice and water shield). The perforations are to keep a little bit of water on the outside from getting in, but also to let moisture out because of sweating and vapor movement because of the airspace between the sheathing and the moisture/vapor barrier. Similar to if you wear a rubber raincoat, it's not letting any water out so you sweat to the point of being dripping. that moisture could lead to rot, mold or other issues. Enter semipermeable membranes, since no structure is ever fully resistant to moisture moving in an out, the moisture barrier needs to protect against moisture from the outside and let vapor out as well. It really is the airspace in between that is the problem, which is why something like ice and water shield would be a great product for the exterior of buildings, however cost prohibitive.
A simple fix for the paper based membrane around the outside bottoms of the walls is to leave a 3/4" gap between the cut side of the sheathing and the membrane contacting the slab. As the OP says, it's better to use a asphalt based sticky product that will adhere to the slab. Alternatively, sealing the cut edge of the sheathing with some wood-seal product would likely do the trick, but i reckon the issue there is that most houses are built too quickly to waste time with extra measures for quality.
Most of the time it's all about building to code, or trying to find ways to cut corners around the code. I'm not a fan of either. I would prefer it be a little more expensive to use excellent building practices and use products that go beyond what the codes say.
Hi there, people have invented these wonderful things called Tents, that are 100% waterproof (from the outside) but breathe by allowing moisture buildup from the inside to migrate outward. Proper Housewraps do the exact same thing. You 100% want it to be waterPROOF (from the outside).
Good video..
Only issue....the direct vent fireplace part...there is caulk you could use for the vent..you said you can't put anything there when, in fact, there is high heat fireplace caulk that could be used.
We installed a direct vent fireplace as an insert into an old wood burning fireplace during our renovation. It brings in fresh air from the chimney and exhausts back to chimney via stainless steel pipes. Chimney is sealed off with a cap and this fireplace is a sealed box unit with no air leak whatsoever and works wonderfully for us.
There are many products available for sealing the flue of a direct vent gas fireplace. If you have a quality fireplace, it will tell you right in the user manual what product to use.
Yes but none of them have agreed to sponsor this channel soooo..... They all suck.
Literally any high temp silicone would work amazing.
I immediately furnace cement would easily do the trick.
housewrap isn't meant to be 100% waterproof, a house needs to be able to BREATH so any moisture in the wood sheathing can escape out through the housewrap, your SIDING and Flashing should keep water off your housewrap directly and the small amounts that get through don't have penetrating power to blast through a vertical housewrap.
So what type of replacement products do you recommend for these? Mostly curious about the fireplace, as I am hoping to begin building a home up in Minnesota in the next couple years.
Adam Krause I agree...no vented, no ventless...so then what?
If you want a fireplace for the winter (totally would want one in a northern state), why not just get a proper wood-burning one or a large wood stove?
That would be less likely to be used, especially by my wife as the convenience factor of a gas fire place is way more attractive in my opinion.
Adam Krause the point was Matt didn’t want the envelope air leaks. Wood burner is worse than direct vent gas.
Vented through traditional chimney. Problem is the sidewall venting.
Awesome video Matt and Team. Great work very helpful. As Matt mentioned some of the worst items for home building. That paper based insulation put in by the builder, or that gas fireplace installed by the builder, what would be better options for replacements for some of these items to correct these for these existing homes built this way? I.e replace that paper insulation with spray foam + FG insulation, replace the gas fireplace with electric fireplace?
Some gas venting basics are required here.
The gas vent is constructed of a smaller 4 inch pipe inside a larger 10 inch pipe. This is called a coaxial vent. The hot air pipe is in the center of the cool air pipe. There is an air gap in between the 2 pipes which limits the heat transfer. The outside of the 10 inch pipe is cool to the touch. If it wasn't constructed this way, your house would catch fire. Cool air for burning is drawn into the firebox via the circular air gap between the diameters of the 2 pipes.
The clearance required between the cool outer pipe and combustible materials is one inch minimum, that is what the wall adapter plate is for. The gap you show in this video can be sealed using regular silicone.
The firebox is sealed and allows no air to flow in or out of the house. Hot air is circulated by a fan around the outside of the sealed firebox to extract heat from the unit and heat the room. Very efficient and no drafts, they are completely sealed. The high temperature silicone sealant everyone in this threat is referring to is used to seal the inner pipe to prevent it from leaking carbon monoxide. The firebox does get quite hot and the typical requirement is for non combustible material 12 inches above and 4 inches per side. This means you need metal studs, concrete board and clay tiles at these boundaries.
I dont think that list was nearly long enough
Keep it going...
MDF
Yes, I'd like to see Matt's top 100 chitlist products.
@@refusoagaino6824 MDF, when used for the right application, is fine. Center panels for cabinet doors to be painted is one example.
Agreed I was surprised he mentioned he didnt like through wall window AC units. Same reasoning as the water heater. Now those are basically always a retrofit on an old house, but still water will get in.
Number 5 you should get a clue...high temperature caulking is commonly used in this application. To say there is no way to seal it to be air tight is wrong. Also a Direct vent fireplace is the best type of gas product to use period. You should gain more knowledge of what your talking about before you make ridiculous comments to be fact...
dude...i absolutely love my ventless fireplace. 99% efficient. warms the house nicely
not sure if that is a joke, Is there any risk involved? does this need a vent for real? does the heat come from turning electricity into heat or gas into heat, where I would understand the risk.
I know someone that lives in a multi million dollar mansion that went double over budget and 2 plus years over build deadline and has only been lived in for two years and is constantly having issues all over the house especially with the geothermal set up and I'm constantly finding things that were done wrong and with no care for the customer and longevity of the house. Would love for u to come out and do an episode on the house. Maybe she could build a portfolio and she the builder or inspectors or something lol
BTW - It's great to see so many opinions and suggestions here. NIce to know there's still so many that are interested in the trades. I say, thank you!
For the gas vent pipe you can use flue pipe cement its used all the time were I live to seal around bolier vents
The house wrap isn’t supposed to be waterproof bud. It’s supposed to shed away water, not be waterproof. Some research will inform you why, however don’t get it from a UA-cam expert. This guy wants to tent the house with waterproof impermeable barriers and let the house rot from trapped moisture. Great tips!
Totally- the wrap is orientation specific. I mean cmon man- it’s not meant for horizontal installation.
Very interesting. So how are fireplaces done in modern homes to prevent air infiltration? Is thre some type of damper that's installed?
Happy holidays Matt. Thanks a lot for all your videos. I’ve devoured many today. A question, I’ve ordered a montigo delray with a flue going straight up 2 story great room, without masonry work. DRL4813NI-2 FULL LOAD: Montigo DelRay 48 - 21,000 BTU NG model equipped with Proflame 2 IPI, reflective glass panels, downlighting, remote control, fan kit, Invisimesh screen. GCA019. Is this system a problematic one ? I’d like to know what you think of this. Thanks in advance for your consideration.
It's easy to criticize, come up with some alternatives.
And house wrap is never waterproof. Do better research.
OHFORPEATSAKES my exact thought, he even contradicts himself by saying it's supposed to be permeable yet 2 seconds later has a problem with it not being waterproof
He has an alternative, he doesn't use these products on the million dollar homes he builds. Those frames in the video with the moist-stop and Thermo-ply aren't homes he would build.
@@jerrellbevers6071 So, according to you, Mr ThisDoesn'tKeepAllTheWaterOut uses nothing, which keeps none of the water out? Where does that meet code?
@@justinb9010 Matt Risinger meant VAPOR PERMEABLE. Water resistant barriers (housewraps, etc.) are there to prevent WATER from getting through, but allow vapor to get through, so that vapor that gets into the cavity has a means of getting out (so that condensation cannot form inside the wall), so that the wall can dry to the outside. Water and vapor are two totally different things.
@@justinb9010 Water vapor permeable, liquid water proof. 2 distinct properties.
Thank you for reminding we live in sticks, packed with Styrofoam, wrapped in plastic, and sprayed with plaster.
Truly, home construction hasn't changed much since the stone age. The sticks and rocks we use to keep the waether off us are just prettier now.
When installed correctly a direct vent gas fireplace is the most efficient fireplace you can buy. I'm pretty sure there's a lot more experience in the north and northeast when it comes to fireplace installs...
Sure, but a fireplace is primarily an aesthetics appliances and heating a home should be left to your primary heating system which is vastly more efficient than any gas fireplace
Matthew Naugler Klassen
How old are you sir?
You obviously are not that old and did not ever have a family member or friend with a very old home with a Heatilator fireplace or any of the similar style that did heat a home!
@matthew That's too funny - I used to live in a house in Maine where the primary heating system was a wood stove. Even when it was -30 F, you had to open a window when it was fully stoked... And this was a log cabin construction with _zero_ insulation. With a masonry chimney going through the bedrooms (one on each side) it would still be in the 50's in the morning... In contrast, I lived in another conventionally stick framed house with double glazing (also in Maine) and hot water oil heating - the glass of water on my night table was often frozen solid in the morning. The other upside of the wood stove is that it kept you in very good shape as you needed to cut & split 4-5 cords of wood in the fall. The wood was free.
"Most efficient fireplace.." Faint praise considering fireplaces are pretty much useless as a heat source.
@@ckm-mkc yeah but your watching a video by a builder who's advocating for building better homes, a leaky house that requires a constantly burning wood fire isn't very effective regardless of the cost of the wood
On the last one about the hot vented fireplace, you can seal it with fireproof caulk. I use it all the time on induction motors on gas packs and exhaust stacks for restaurants. It’s red and rated for heat
That Thermo-ply sheathing still keeps me up at night. "He tore it with his hand.. how does that have shearing strength?"
No offence, you're wrong about the direct vent fireplace.
They do make a high temperature caulking to seal, that are rated for high temp applications.
So? Care to enlighten us?
House wraps are one of the best improvements in new home construction. The product acts as a wind breaker for the entire home. Wind causes a lot of thermal loss due to its nature. The way new homes are built there is small gaps everywhere that allows small amounts of outside air to make its way through the siding into the insulation then to the drywall resulting in higher hvac cost. If a house is wrapped it stops the air, it acts as a windbreaker for the entire home. The wrap is designed to allow moisture to move through it so the house can breath. This guy thinks it should act like plastic. In most parts of the country if u would wrap a house in plastic within a year the house would have mold everywhere due to moisture getting trapped inside the walls. Houses have to allow moisture in and out Aka breath. House wraps can cut hvac cost depending on the location and siding around 30%. They are a great product this guy is 100% ignorant on the product and should do research before he says anything. A simple google search would saved his reputation
I agree. It's not supposed to be waterproof. If you want to live in a cave, make it waterproof. Houses breath. It's the difference you can feel when you are in a commercial block building or a home.
Also his waterproof test doesnt represent the way the wrap is installed. It's not installed horizontally flat. Its installed vertically. Perhaps sometimes not always flat, (sloped walls on some complicated architecture). But 99%of the time on a flat vertical wall.
I agree with the recessed tankless idea, but you can seal these with foam or silicone caulk and perhaps install a flashed hood over it to divert water if he is really concerned. It can be fixed with final siding installation.
@@zgarrett14 \ i bought same stuff for my garage. Same kind he has and it said something like "air seal" don't recall anything about water sealing. Was confused when he said it was for water.. Ty for info
You are 100% correct.
@@zgarrett14 Not only is it installed vertically it is also covered by siding.
jason johnson new houses are 90% cookie cutter houses in an allotment cheaply built home wrap won’t save it
These are really great videos, describing the do's and don'ts of building a house. As an electrician I see a lot of these products and as an electrician in Texas I find a lot of the building methods substandard/questionable at best. Matt thanks for making these videos! As a hopeful some day home buyer I'll be looking for the qualities you prescribe. This video especially was enjoyable, keep up the good work both on the job site and on UA-cam!
Forget everything you saw in this video since it is bogus.
It's a vapor barrier not water proofing. It was never designed to be water proof nor do you want it to be.
No argument from me on any of these. I'm just a homeowner (Bi-level) in Cincinnati, OH. We built our home in 1980-81 from one of the cheapest builders around. It has the cardboard sheeting you mentioned. We have never had an issue in 40 years. We did have a major issue with the poured concrete foundation when the steel clips to hold the forms rusted out. The leak cost us new carpeting and drywall in the lower level family room.
Funny, I'm working in Amberly atm. Remodeling a house from 58.
Im an electrician on a project now , and the building is has all 5 of these products...sort of sad. We all do our jobs as best as we can, but we all joke how the building will only last 10 years. Really sad. Its all about low cost for them.
Even I as a young carpenter I advised my boss about LP siding when we used it on some high end homes. That was all we did along with remodels and light commercial. I also advised him against Woodruff roofing made from treated Masonite. Both which had to be replaced with in a year. When I ventured of to form my own company, laminate flooring was just being sold here. After one glance I told the owner of this house not to use it because I knew it would warp soon after putting it down, because of the bottom not sealed at the same level as the surface. I was my only employee with exception to my 35 years older best friend who was a plumber and electrician. We would keep each other employed so we could both be working when it was slow for one of us. This house was 97 feet long and the addition I was building was 90 degrees from it and needed massive amounts of flooring. We installed it and it warped. Fortunately, only the kitchen was done first and we had to tear it up. Any good carpenter or builder should know all these types issues, such as expansion and contraction, etc.walls breath no matter how tight you think it is. Hot air out in day, cold damp air in evening.
In reality though, this is literally a form of "job security". We get double the work over a normal trade career because we can go build the replacement too. We don't work for quality and pride in our work anymore, we work for money, because money is all that matters.
@@davidk7544 there are very few professions where a worker can take any pride in his work any more. :( What a sad situation.
@@imgoingtotellyourmom , OR.... all of us can make a point of working for quality, and if that's not what the boss wants, we find a different job. it's an attitude we must all have if we're to get our society back. if we can't do that then yeah, all is lost.
@@davidk7544 I'm in! :)
The soft handed super builder strikes again
Mhcp I’ve never been able to put my finger on what I don’t like about this guy. That is such a poignant insult.
@@elliotmaleski5275
He's the guy with the shiny pickup on low profile tires that sells the job. Not the guy with the dusty pickup on proper tires that actually does the job. Whatever product has the highest margin is the one he will argue is best for the customer.
Soft hands indeed.
He bashes all these different ancillary products while ignoring in the background all over the outside of the house the "elephant in the room" ie. the oriented strand board (OSB) which he does refer to once or twice as "OSB", but without telling the truth about it. It saves you a miniscule amount over plywood, which I would use only if I had to but OSB is terrible. It's nothing more than non-oriented chips and slivers of wood held together with some kind of resin. It therefore doesn't have the intrinsic strength against pressure which plywood, with multiple layers or plies in opposite planes has, and it has too much plastic binder which out gasses. Furthermore, it wicks up water faster and dries out slower than plywood and OSB just won't hold nails over time. They back out. There's just no justification for use of OSB on the sides of houses and especially on the roof and in "engineered" I-beam floor joists where it has no reason to be. Jeez, spend a couple hundred dollars extra on real plywood over an entire 2 story home and it'll last forever. If I were to be having a house built for me in a high humidity environment I'd even look into the cost differential in using marine grade plywood.
I just can't believe that he ignored the OSB. You literally couldn't pay me enough to use it.
Thank you! My Dad hates OSB (and drywall...the humanity! 😲) with a passion. If it wasn't hardwood or plywood, it wasn't in our house. I grew up with his standards and unfortunately they've stuck.
Dad's a shipwright and a luthier, among other things. Many jokes about a cut not being spot on were had growing up. Now I can't own a house without it being a giant project to rehabilitate the poor thing. 🤣
Hi Matt, Great show! Question: Is there a good direct exhaust NG fireplace system you do like? Or is it Chimney or nothing? Thanks!
Matt, what we ordinary people need are construction techniques that most any builder can do well. We who aren't millionaires can't afford to hire engineers or elite contractors to build our homes. So, if there are products and/or design strategies that can produce a good envelope that most any contractor can do, that's what we need.
Well, there's your mistake. The house isn't built to last. It's built to look pretty long enough the builder can disappear with the money.
Now that is the God's honest truth right there.
All those homes will be in the hands of the bank within 3 years of sale... so.. why bother?
The problem with many of these people that want to build houses "to last" is the price. If we built a foundation "to last" and built walls "to last" and built a roof "to last" none of us could afford a house at that point. This video points out that there are better options out there however it doesn't point out the cost of "building it to last" in all aspects of the house.
@@brandona.deimel5155 it used to be possible before communism, socialism, and swag took over. Now you have to be a super rich pajama boy with a PhD in Latte Machiato to afford amything. It's cool though. Change is coming. And when it does the streets will be paved with the teeth of the useless. The world is about to explode. WW III is coming. Germany is one vote away from becoming a Nazi state again. And that vote is next month. If the AFD win majority, the EU will implode and drag the world into a nasty war all over again. America doesn't have the scrotum or the balls in it that we used to to actually stick out and win a real war. The soldiers hands are hog tied by politicians and socialists. Way to go baby boomers. You have set the stage for a world war in a world that is totally interconnected and full of nuclear and biological weapons. The American dream is dead. So is any hope if advancement in humanity. Maybe after the great war we can get back to being a species of progress instead of a Bastian of bullshit. You pajama boys better cut back on the double soy expressos and bleach those teeth more. I want my driveway to shine.
Calm down matt mostowicz.
There's no sense in frightening the sheep before you slaughter them. It spoils the meat.
*If* you are right, we are far too close to the edge to turn the tide now. Best you can do is dig in and stay calm. Don't expose yourself or panic those around you, as they are far more likely to be a danger to you than to your enemy.
Paper should be used for 2 things. Writing ✍️ and wiping 🧻
You lost your credibility with the house wrap. It was never intended to lay flat. It is designed to go vertical. The pin pricks are facing out. The slight rain water (IF ANY) runs down the sheet and down not get inside. The pin pricks is to let humidity leak out for mold prevention.
Also the direct vent fireplace. The hot air goes out the inter pipe. The cold outside air comes in the outer pipe. This prevents the hot pipe from toughing the frame work. I would never hire your to do my contracting.
If you use those cheap ass products from the video then you couldn't afford him.
There are plenty of high heat sealers and insulation. Although I don’t really care for the fake logs either. Sometimes a wood fireplace is not allowed in the town / city so the fake one will suffice.
I love the fact that you're super opinionated about your craft. I'm the same way when it comes to automotive. Keep it up!
Your not totally knowledgeable about these products ! Stop posting ! The cardboard sheathing does suck though.
I work in heating and air. A big problem we see today are homes that are TOO sealed up. Air gets stagnant and unhealthy. It's not a bad thing to have some loss as long as its waterproof. If you do seal a house up real tight, be sure to add some makeup air to pull some fresh air outside into the conditioned air.
I know this post is three years old and I hope you have watched or gone to enough trainings to know there is no such thing as TOO tight or "sealed up." You can use ERV's, HRV's or just a regular ventilator to bring in fresh air and have it filtered in the return air ducting before entering the breathable air space. All new current day furnaces, air handlers and the like are designed to run a CF (Continuous fan- low speed of course). One of his most recent videos has an install and a gal from Mitsubishi showing a horizontal air handler / heat pump setup that does exactly what I am referring to above. All new home builds should be running these super-efficient and healthy options. Have you seen some of the results from these blow door tests? Crazy tight homes that I never imagine would exist. My company does HVAC and Home Performance upgrades. It is a new world and Matt is showing us the future.
100% agree. Homes that are too sealed up creates a very unhealthy place to live.
@@Balticblue93 lol. You basically just said “spaceships are completely sealed they just add a ton of tech and complexity to do it.”
@@patjohn775 There is no simple option. If you avoid the complexity of having active ventilation in a tight house, you're taking on water problems, pest problems and wasting lots of money on energy bills forever.
Not sure why some people want to rationalize that sharing a house with rodents and bugs or pesticides is healthier than controlled airflow.
Hope you learned how wrong you are through watching more modern content. A tight house absolutely does "breath" in the sense of drawing in fresh air, it just does it in a controlled manner using an ERV or HRV which is orders of magnitude more efficient than having a leaky house.
Cardboard sheathing : ))) You made my day : ) I really hope it is not as widespread as you say.
I've installed it in every major city in Texas and in surrounding states. This was years ago but I know it's still used in track houses built in central Texas. Some codes make you put some metal on your walls as you approach the coast.
In maryland back in the 80s and 90s they built a lot of house's and townhomes out of this crap it still blows my mind
We are going in the wrong direction. Implement concrete construction.
It's not & it's not being used a sheathing. The idiot in the video call the vabor barrier sheathing what a dope.
I've seen the paper sheathing a few times during remodels here in Hawaii. And yes the original builders do use it as sheeting. Studs, cardboard, then lap siding. Some may say that the shear is coming from cross bracing from straps but there were none to be found. Just because it's not used in all areas doesn't mean he's wrong about it being used.
You're factually wrong on several accounts in this video. After watching, I went to the comments and found each of my criticisms to be well articulated by others. You should probably familiarize yourself with a product's technical data before proceeding to base your opinion on how you "feel".
If you're going to install a fake fireplace, you might as well get the LED incerts, and many give of a decent amount of heat, plus you can turn it on any time of the year for the ambiance and not have the heat come out. Plus, they have some that look great, and can change the color of the flames.
On the vireplace vent use a product called RTV it’s good for continuous 400-600 degree exposure and can withstand up to 900 degrees before degrading. Also good for dealing as it is extremely tacky, expands and contracts, along with sticking to most any surface. We use this product on industrial boilers in a power plant. Mostly used for doors and piping gasket but easily withstands the heat.
Every time I walk into a house with ventless fireplaces it smells like natural gas in the house. 🤢
Yep. I have one and don't use it. It smells very bad. I am designing a new house that will either have a real fire place or not one at all.
So what kid of fireplace should you put in?
Yeah, he left that part out.
Why did you do a horizontal water test on a vertically installed product? I've never seen anyone put house wrap on a flat roof.
Because the manufacturer wouldn't sponsor this channel.
Why do I get the feeling Matt is being followed by a fuming contractor, listening to him S all over the house? lol
Dumb building product? A wrap that lets the house dry is dumb? I tend to think the guy trying to say you shouldn’t let your house breathe has never dealt with mold