Unable to place my machine in his shop, Chris guided me through the narrow straights of replacing the clutch after the hyd clutch slave cyl. failed and soaked the entire assy. I procured a redesigned clutch disc and reassembled. The drivetrain is smoother now than ever and I have the peace of mind knowing it's right. Chris is a true "Beemer Guru" and knows his profession to the nth degree. Many thanks to him again!!!
@detenator890 : The R1100 models (EXCEPT the "S") do not usually suffer from this failure unless spline lubrication is neglected. You should be trouble-free for a long time. Note though that the R1100 does have the same design flaw as the R1150 has so the cure is the same. Thanks.
I can do the spline lubes myself now on my '93 K1100. Got me a keeper! Thank you Chris for all the helpful and important info. I believe this kind of information will be a help to anyone who wants it.
Hi Isabelle, The 6 speed is a good transmission. BMW didn't design or build it, Getrag did. The problem is where BMW positioned the clutch on the engine. I can fix that with the modified clutch disc that I sell. As for the cable operated clutch R1100RT: While the shaft does not protrude through the clutch disc completely it is nowhere near as bad as that of the hydraulic clutch models. I would not worry about this failure in a cable-clutch model BMW provided the spline lube service was done.
All R850, R1100, R1150 and R1200C models have this design flaw. I am told that the same issue is present in the new R1200 Hexhead models but I have no personal knowledge of this as I do not service BMW's made after 2004. The cable operated clutch models such as the R850 and R1100 (except the R1100S) do not fail often though due to the use of a 5 speed gearbox as opposed to the 6 speed used in later models. I hope that clarifies things for you. Thanks for your comment.
We had the R850R here for a couple of years only and only in the naked 'R' model. It was a good bike but didn't sell well in the US. Too many people with little-penis syndrome. Gotta have a fast car, huge SUV and a 2800 cc bike with drag pipes to compensate for their two inch pop-cock and general lack of character. This is a country that does not quite grasp the fact that a small bike will do better in the city, the twisties and use far less fuel while doing it.
This defect in design exists in all R850, R1100, R1150, R1200, K1200RS< models. I do not have a cure for the K models and the R850 & R1100 models rarely suffer from a failure of this nature, likely due to the 5 speed gearbox and people running slightly higher engine rpm vs. lumbering along in 6th gear @ 3000rpm. Thank you for your question.
@detenator890 : Those are easy. New tires run @ the proper tire pressures of Front 42psi / Rear 44 psi. Put whatever stereo you want into the fairing. Use helmet speakers (J&M, etc.) for better sound quality. Enjoy.
The 850 models have a 10/32 (3:20) rear drive ratio as opposed to the 1100/1150RT having a 11/31 (2:82) rear drive. So yes, geared lower for quicker acceleration but slightly less top speed.
For my needs, I can't see anything but advantages over a slightly lower geared total ratio, so the 850 model seems to be perfect for me. Thanks, Isabelle
@BavarianBomberWrench Yeah i bought the bike used a year ago with 50k miles and now we have close to 65k on it. I'm not planing to give it up anytime soon because i love the way it rides. Now if you can fix the pulling to the right problem and figure out how to install a bigger stereo that would be great. hehe.
I didn't know that. I'm told the 850 engine runs a little smoother and less shaky than the 1100/1150 engine, while the different transmission-end-ratio makes it just as quick taking off and at normal speeds, that's why I consider the 850 version. I'll try to remember to post it if I find information about the clutch and gearbox of the 1100-model 850's! Isabelle
My K75 did exactly the same. 20,000 miles on the clock..Only warning was a slight rattle for a couple of weeks before it happened that disappeared when I pulled the clutch in. Then total loss of transmission.
+johnofypres nitemare, iv got 22, on my 10 year old Honda CBF,100a even the cain and sprockets dont need replacing yet, by a long way, and it doues over 50MPG ..
"Crunchy" downshifts indicate dry input shaft spline. The final drive splines should be greased at about 10,000 miles or every other tire change. A good moly grease such as Honda Moly 60 works wonders as it is sticky. No longer made however.
Is this problem isolated to the R1150RT, or is this common with other Beemers-and if it is, which models? I was all but ready to get an R1150RT, but now you've given me something to consider!
WOW! That is a coolant leak, Head gasket, cracked head, etc. The leak-down test should have proven that if the tech new what he / she was doing. When the leak-down test shows that there is a loss but you can not hear any 'wind' from the intake, exhaust or crankcase open up the radiator cap! I hope they supply you with a new bike but I doubt it. Good luck, Chris
@sweatmark : Quite a bit or R&D went into this cure. So far there are a dozen on the road and the most common rider comment is "WOW, this has never shifted so well!" I do NOT make these modifications to the clutch disc but I DO sell them at my cost ($600). I do not have one in stock right now. I can order an additional one if you'd like. If so please visit my website and e-mail me.
Neosho mo. Bike is in my shop in grove ok. I just bought and paid for a used driveshaft on eBay (150bucks)(was that a good deal?)and now I need only clutch disc. Dealer wanted 800 to fix if I carried tranny in. I can't see myself doing tranny work but I won't pay retail for new parts either. I enjoyed your vids and was amazed at our unfortunate luck. I have 67,000 miles on mine and it went out while passing a car under load with wife on back. Boy that was a bad noise at 1am with no cell servi
Please visit my website (UA-cam doesn't allow links to be posted in the comments) and e-mail me through my website. I will give you info on the clutch disc. Thanks, Chris
Lol, well, I might just as well end up with the 1100, but that will only depend on what's available on that moment... Funny thing: over here most people got the 1100 too because of the extra power for barely extra money... But most police-RT's over here were actually 850's! The R850R is a very beautiful machine, but I prefer getting a touring-bike. Unless we get the price of purchase + new tires for it, the little 600cc naked Yamaha will stay for a while anyways...
Hi, When I start the engine - idle power - I can hear a rattling sound from the transmission. When you use the clutch lever (pull in) I can not hear the sound any longer. What could be the problem? Maybe one of the bearings? But which one? Or only the clutch shaft? Thanks in advance, Ervin
Hi, I really like the R850RT. I'm told the late ones with the "nicer" R1150RT headlight have a 6speed with hydraulic operated clutch too, but I don't know about the 1100 lookalike... This known issue is a serious argument for me to never buy a bike with this transmission. Does the older "uglier" 1100 lookalike also have this hydraulic 6-speed box, or does it still have the better cable-clutch and 5-speed box? I don't care for that "nice" headlight and 6th gear anyways... Thanks, Isabelle
You said at the very end of this video that it can be cured. How? I have a 1997 RT and I replaced the clutch and lubed up the trans input shaft, output shaft, drive shaft, and final drive splines with Honda Molly lube last summer. Is my bike doomed to failure anyway? Thank you.
If I'd buy an R....RT, I'd be spending around the maximum amount of money I'd want to spend on a bike for now, so I would rather avoid having to do such an investment and get a bike that doesn't have this issue (this bad). Do the 1100-model R850RT's still have the (less failing-sensitive) cable-clutch like the R1100RT, or do they already have the hydraulic clutch from the later R850RT's and R1150RT's? Thanks, Isabelle
I am considering 1150GS for my next bike. Is there a way to approximate the wear of the input shaft splines when inspecting the bike with the seller (I will not be able to disassemble the bike ofcourse). Is there a "trick" to check it?
Thanks Chris, great videos! Which model is your favorite, most dependable/reliable & costs the least for constant or catastrophic repairs? I'm looking at a blue 2004 R1150RT $4800. with 12k mi what do you think? Then I saw this video, not so sure now? Is oil head better than air head? I'm in the market to purchase, any recommendations on a good model?
Their most reliable machine was not a twin. The 4 and 3 cylinder K series were high mileage machines and you'll find examples with hundreds of thousands of miles on them in perfect running order. Airhead and oilheads are very different. If you want to ride and not wrench / tinker all the time go with the Oilhead. I'd avoid the hydraulic clutch models and that will force you into the past century for a machine made prior to 2002 that has a cable operated clutch. After that they have greater potential for spline failure unless you remedy that ahead of time with a different clutch disc to correct the spline contact issue. Yet even that is no 'guarantee' as some of these machines have deeper issues.
@@ChrisR.Harris Thank you for sharing your knowledge. I’m about to replace my clutch . What’s the part number clutch disk that remedies that spline failure? Thnx. 🙂
can anyone tell me what cost am I looking at to replace the input shaft and clutch on R1150rt . I about to buy a R1150RT that may have a this issue, and want to make sure I don't over pay
Also if you give me an e-mail I'll send u eBay item number so u can see shaft. He says it's in excellent shape and it comes with couple bearings and one gear.
Just another BMW failure. Would be good if they did a recall and stood behind their product. Take out the spaces in the link and watch ww w. ua-cam.com/video/cHDpj0LrVuM/v-deo.html
Unable to place my machine in his shop, Chris guided me through the narrow straights of replacing the clutch after the hyd clutch slave cyl. failed and soaked the entire assy. I procured a redesigned clutch disc and reassembled. The drivetrain is smoother now than ever and I have the peace of mind knowing it's right. Chris is a true "Beemer Guru" and knows his profession to the nth degree. Many thanks to him again!!!
@detenator890 : The R1100 models (EXCEPT the "S") do not usually suffer from this failure unless spline lubrication is neglected. You should be trouble-free for a long time. Note though that the R1100 does have the same design flaw as the R1150 has so the cure is the same. Thanks.
I can do the spline lubes myself now on my '93 K1100. Got me a keeper!
Thank you Chris for all the helpful and important info. I believe this kind of information will be a help to anyone who wants it.
Hi Isabelle,
The 6 speed is a good transmission. BMW didn't design or build it, Getrag did. The problem is where BMW positioned the clutch on the engine. I can fix that with the modified clutch disc that I sell. As for the cable operated clutch R1100RT: While the shaft does not protrude through the clutch disc completely it is nowhere near as bad as that of the hydraulic clutch models. I would not worry about this failure in a cable-clutch model BMW provided the spline lube service was done.
Thank you for your question. Unfortunately, there is no way to inspect the input shaft / clutch hub splines without removing the transmission.
All R850, R1100, R1150 and R1200C models have this design flaw. I am told that the same issue is present in the new R1200 Hexhead models but I have no personal knowledge of this as I do not service BMW's made after 2004. The cable operated clutch models such as the R850 and R1100 (except the R1100S) do not fail often though due to the use of a 5 speed gearbox as opposed to the 6 speed used in later models. I hope that clarifies things for you. Thanks for your comment.
We had the R850R here for a couple of years only and only in the naked 'R' model. It was a good bike but didn't sell well in the US. Too many people with little-penis syndrome. Gotta have a fast car, huge SUV and a 2800 cc bike with drag pipes to compensate for their two inch pop-cock and general lack of character. This is a country that does not quite grasp the fact that a small bike will do better in the city, the twisties and use far less fuel while doing it.
This defect in design exists in all R850, R1100, R1150, R1200, K1200RS< models. I do not have a cure for the K models and the R850 & R1100 models rarely suffer from a failure of this nature, likely due to the 5 speed gearbox and people running slightly higher engine rpm vs. lumbering along in 6th gear @ 3000rpm. Thank you for your question.
Chris, the best BMW Doctor!
'Doctor'... Does that mean I can just 'practice'?! ;)
@detenator890 : Those are easy. New tires run @ the proper tire pressures of Front 42psi / Rear 44 psi. Put whatever stereo you want into the fairing. Use helmet speakers (J&M, etc.) for better sound quality. Enjoy.
The 850 models have a 10/32 (3:20) rear drive ratio as opposed to the 1100/1150RT having a 11/31 (2:82) rear drive. So yes, geared lower for quicker acceleration but slightly less top speed.
For my needs, I can't see anything but advantages over a slightly lower geared total ratio, so the 850 model seems to be perfect for me.
Thanks, Isabelle
Hi Isabelle,
I do not know as the R850RT was never imported to the U.S.
@BavarianBomberWrench Yeah i bought the bike used a year ago with 50k miles and now we have close to 65k on it. I'm not planing to give it up anytime soon because i love the way it rides. Now if you can fix the pulling to the right problem and figure out how to install a bigger stereo that would be great. hehe.
I didn't know that. I'm told the 850 engine runs a little smoother and less shaky than the 1100/1150 engine, while the different transmission-end-ratio makes it just as quick taking off and at normal speeds, that's why I consider the 850 version.
I'll try to remember to post it if I find information about the clutch and gearbox of the 1100-model 850's!
Isabelle
My K75 did exactly the same. 20,000 miles on the clock..Only warning was a slight rattle for a couple of weeks before it happened that disappeared when I pulled the clutch in. Then total loss of transmission.
+johnofypres nitemare, iv got 22, on my 10 year old Honda CBF,100a even the cain and sprockets dont need replacing yet, by a long way, and it doues over 50MPG ..
You're right Brian. I despatched a CX500 for 100.000 miles. God bless Honda.
Merry Christmas. Ride safe my friend.
cheers mate.
"Crunchy" downshifts indicate dry input shaft spline. The final drive splines should be greased at about 10,000 miles or every other tire change. A good moly grease such as Honda Moly 60 works wonders as it is sticky. No longer made however.
@xcwua : Thank you! Your gratitude is flattering :)
Is this problem isolated to the R1150RT, or is this common with other Beemers-and if it is, which models? I was all but ready to get an R1150RT, but now you've given me something to consider!
WOW! That is a coolant leak, Head gasket, cracked head, etc. The leak-down test should have proven that if the tech new what he / she was doing. When the leak-down test shows that there is a loss but you can not hear any 'wind' from the intake, exhaust or crankcase open up the radiator cap! I hope they supply you with a new bike but I doubt it. Good luck, Chris
@sweatmark : Quite a bit or R&D went into this cure. So far there are a dozen on the road and the most common rider comment is "WOW, this has never shifted so well!"
I do NOT make these modifications to the clutch disc but I DO sell them at my cost ($600). I do not have one in stock right now. I can order an additional one if you'd like. If so please visit my website and e-mail me.
True!
Neosho mo. Bike is in my shop in grove ok. I just bought and paid for a used driveshaft on eBay (150bucks)(was that a good deal?)and now I need only clutch disc. Dealer wanted 800 to fix if I carried tranny in. I can't see myself doing tranny work but I won't pay retail for new parts either. I enjoyed your vids and was amazed at our unfortunate luck. I have 67,000 miles on mine and it went out while passing a car under load with wife on back. Boy that was a bad noise at 1am with no cell servi
Hi, i've been considering an old beemer....yikes, not sure now. What's the service interval on lubing that spline?
Please visit my website (UA-cam doesn't allow links to be posted in the comments) and e-mail me through my website. I will give you info on the clutch disc. Thanks, Chris
Lol, well, I might just as well end up with the 1100, but that will only depend on what's available on that moment...
Funny thing: over here most people got the 1100 too because of the extra power for barely extra money... But most police-RT's over here were actually 850's!
The R850R is a very beautiful machine, but I prefer getting a touring-bike. Unless we get the price of purchase + new tires for it, the little 600cc naked Yamaha will stay for a while anyways...
@ManlyMadi8 : Do a search for AffordableBeemerServices or check your INBOX please. Thanks.
Outstanding! Thanks.
@ManlyMadi8 : Part 1 has noise!
Hi,
When I start the engine - idle power - I can hear a rattling sound from the transmission. When you use the clutch lever (pull in) I can not hear the sound any longer.
What could be the problem? Maybe one of the bearings? But which one? Or only the clutch shaft?
Thanks in advance,
Ervin
Hi, I really like the R850RT. I'm told the late ones with the "nicer" R1150RT headlight have a 6speed with hydraulic operated clutch too, but I don't know about the 1100 lookalike...
This known issue is a serious argument for me to never buy a bike with this transmission.
Does the older "uglier" 1100 lookalike also have this hydraulic 6-speed box, or does it still have the better cable-clutch and 5-speed box?
I don't care for that "nice" headlight and 6th gear anyways...
Thanks, Isabelle
You said at the very end of this video that it can be cured. How? I have a 1997 RT and I replaced the clutch and lubed up the trans input shaft, output shaft, drive shaft, and final drive splines with Honda Molly lube last summer. Is my bike doomed to failure anyway?
Thank you.
do you have that piece in stock?

@ManlyMadi8 :Where are you located?
If I'd buy an R....RT, I'd be spending around the maximum amount of money I'd want to spend on a bike for now, so I would rather avoid having to do such an investment and get a bike that doesn't have this issue (this bad).
Do the 1100-model R850RT's still have the (less failing-sensitive) cable-clutch like the R1100RT, or do they already have the hydraulic clutch from the later R850RT's and R1150RT's?
Thanks, Isabelle
Hi, do all the 1200s suffer from this flaw? Video says mentions only 1200C but one of the posts suggested all since the R850, confused! Thanks!
Please add noise!!! Also can you let me know where I can get a used input shaft and clutch disc as mine did the same thing. Can you fix it???
There are no symptoms / warning signs. They just fail.
I am considering 1150GS for my next bike. Is there a way to approximate the wear of the input shaft splines when inspecting the bike with the seller (I will not be able to disassemble the bike ofcourse). Is there a "trick" to check it?
My 2000 R1150GS has 125,000 miles on it. I just roasted the final drive. First major mechanical malfunction.
Thanks Chris, great videos! Which model is your favorite, most dependable/reliable & costs the least for constant or catastrophic repairs? I'm looking at a blue 2004 R1150RT $4800. with 12k mi what do you think? Then I saw this video, not so sure now? Is oil head better than air head? I'm in the market to purchase, any recommendations on a good model?
Their most reliable machine was not a twin. The 4 and 3 cylinder K series were high mileage machines and you'll find examples with hundreds of thousands of miles on them in perfect running order. Airhead and oilheads are very different. If you want to ride and not wrench / tinker all the time go with the Oilhead. I'd avoid the hydraulic clutch models and that will force you into the past century for a machine made prior to 2002 that has a cable operated clutch. After that they have greater potential for spline failure unless you remedy that ahead of time with a different clutch disc to correct the spline contact issue. Yet even that is no 'guarantee' as some of these machines have deeper issues.
@@ChrisR.Harris Thank you for sharing your knowledge. I’m about to replace my clutch . What’s the part number clutch disk that remedies that spline failure? Thnx. 🙂
@@donnieboy123 www.beemerboneyard.com/cla33264.html
How do I go to web site. I tried and it didn't seem to work??
can anyone tell me what cost am I looking at to replace the input shaft and clutch on R1150rt . I about to buy a R1150RT that may have a this issue, and want to make sure I don't over pay
More than $3000 / more than the bike is worth.
Man Im so happy I dont have a R... But the K has its own problems..
Also if you give me an e-mail I'll send u eBay item number so u can see shaft. He says it's in excellent shape and it comes with couple bearings and one gear.
So guys on Vispas and Mopeds are hung? Who knew! Enjoy your videos, could use less cursing. Cheers
Just another BMW failure. Would be good if they did a recall and stood behind their product. Take out the spaces in the link and watch ww w. ua-cam.com/video/cHDpj0LrVuM/v-deo.html
BMW Motorcycle quality is Dog Shit