@@CasualDIY I think for £131 it's a bit of a bargain. Only real issue I can see is that the metal sides are ever so slightly lower than the rotating part so when holding pieces the piece rocks up slightly and will give an inaccurate cut. Easy fix I think is a shim of a layer or 2 of vinyl over the metal sides to get them even with the rotating part. The plastic sides need a slight shim also.
I'm in the US, so we sometimes do not have the same brands of tools that you have access to, as in this case. However, I still like to view your reviews of said tools, because they (your reviews) are a good source of "things to look for when purchasing ANY (similar) tool". So, thank you for putting up this content; I look forward to the next!
It looks like Home depot sells this in the US. I'm not sure if they're sold in stores, but it looks like I can get it shipped for free to my local store at least. Which is why I'm here on YT looking at reviews. I'm in the market for a $200 and under miter saw. And this one is $195 at Home Depot.
Very fair review, most of the comments really apply to most mitre saws though (setting up, laser accuracy, lack of zero insert plate etc.) I use mine on the Evo Stand as it needs to be transportable, tbh it's a better stand than the DeWalt one I had, you aren't limited to Evo blades I have used various makes on mine by using a 25mm bore gauging ring, works perfectly I believe some other manufacturers are starting to make 25mm bore blades probably because the Evo's have been so popular, the dust collection leaves something to be desired, again that's a common complaint on most makes of mitre saw and fairly easily improved, overall the Evo saw is great, especially at the price, I use mine more than any other machine in the workshop or on site, currently I'm building your jig (slightly modified for my personal use) looks like a valuable addition, keep up the good work Tomasz (sorry if I've spelt your forename wrong btw)
Spelt it perfectly mate 😁👍 you see I got the Rage 5S as well but I'm bit reluctant in using different blades. But I think it's about time to just go and do it to see if other blades will work correctly. I read somewhere a while ago that if you put different blades than Evolution then this may void your warranty? Not sure how true is that...
@@CasualDIY These are the ones I use, 30mm to 25.4mm reducing bush/ ring, never had even the slightest hint of a problem bud, see: www.ebay.co.uk/itm/2-x-30mm-to-25-4mm-Circular-Saw-Blade-Reducing-Ring-Bore-Bushes-Bushing-Spacers/172864338616?ssPageName=STRK%3AMEBIDX%3AIT&_trksid=p2057872.m2749.l2649
I have the same saw and agree 100 percent with all your pros and cons comments of the review. I dont use the laser either. But the saw is accurate once set up. Great review mate modify the dust extraction mate it's worth it
I added a fabric "spray booth" with a box fan and 20x20 box fan which, along with a vac on the dust port keeps about 98% of all dust off the floor. Plenty falls in the "booth" but is easily sucked up when it really piles up. I plan to replace the booth with a plywood version but using the fan/filter idea. This is the one I got (in the US) HomeRight C900146 Air Flow Spray Shelter, Paint Booth, White. This is not a link, just the description.
Hi Tomasz. Thank you for this. I have the double bevel version. Just discovered the blade is not fully at 90° to the table. Do you know how to adjust this?
As you’re in the UK as I am, I have a Freud blade for fine cross cut with a bore ring from Tewksbury Saw and it works very very well. I have also modified the extraction but still not amazing. Def will consider building a hood but then it’s even bigger Dimentions. Thanks for the review.
It took me long enough... same here good man re results from your review. For the price, very happy. Now that I’m doing more precise work I have to check regularly for alignment which after some time is now consistent. Re extraction, also, there are casted bars in the casting inside the hole (I’m assuming to prevent bigger pieces of wood going through) which I’ll saw off as virtually every time gets clogged. I build also a small ‘shoe’ projecting forward to ‘invite’ saw dust into the hole in the casting. Re alignment, my saw, even when the front nob is right there is a little play left and right when putting lateral pressure on the handle of the saw. I have then set the saw fence in a way that exerting a small pressure towards right (or left as you may prefer) is perfectly square. This seems to weird very well. Basically is nullifying the play by pushing the handle laterally as long as the fence is set to be square when the play is voided. Hope this helps. (From other reviews I have seen, other saws that are slightly more expensive also have hiccups).
@@EquilibriaHealth I think most tools will have something wrong or just inconvenient about them. Got the same issue with the dust clogging up due to vertical things inside of the dust port. Especially when working with resin. And you say you managed to remove them, I probably have to do the same. I bought some rubber sheet that I was planning to use as a guide for the dust. Eventually I'll get around to that as well 👍😁
I have removed the bars yet as I’m mainly working with hard wood and I mainly work with hand tools. The problem only seems to happen when cutting soft wood creating long curls or chunks. I’ll modify it first and let you know how it goes. It seems to me a little flaw in the design as the port is 1) very small esp for larger kerf blades 2) not aligned well with the directing of the dust produced 3) no shoe. Re shoe, it’s a fine balance in having too short not noticing any big difference or tool long to get in the way of the saw casing and to interfere with the laser. I used a plastic section from a PVC large pipe moulded with a heat gun and screwed using existing fixings on the left (for the depth stop if I recollect correctly).
@@EquilibriaHealth ok cool thanks. PVA pipe that's a good idea as well. Although I need the depth stop I use it quite often. But for the rubber sheet I got some strong earth magnets that I think will do the job to hold and try the design first and then glue it on
Thanks Thomas. I have one of these and Would agree with your comments. Initially I started to use mine for picture frames. The results were appalling and still are , I now just use mine for general work such as cutting 4" X 2" and it's good enough for that. Regarding the lazar , this never worked properly no matter how I tried to reset it, so I just have it turned OFF all the time. The blade limitation due to a one size mounting hole which is unique to this machine and severely limits the choice , blade quality it's ok but not fantastic . Unlike yourself I do think this Evolution mitre saw can be beaten on price and quality. B and Q at the moment offer some good quality machines with better features for similar prices. Many thanks once again for your work.
for wood work/cutting wood for a DIYer how good is it? Looking to get one for trim work and projects around the house. How good is it for wood @2500rpm's
Great review mate. I agree with your comments, it is limited but a great machine for general use. Still haven't copied your jig yet! But I have made a new fence after mine snapped in two!
I have this saw and built a copy of your miter jig which makes it work fine. Many thanks for that. Here in the US almost all 10 inch blades have 5/8 inch arbor holes. Have you tried using such a blade by reversing the locking washer. They say you can in one place but then they say any third party blade will void the warranty. Anyone have any experience with this?
hi, and sorry for my bad english... i buy the 255+ model and it look very impressive machine... the only problem that i got is whit the laser guide: NO PROBLEM when cutting wood... BUT at my first STEEL cutting the laser guide vanish because the abrasive residues of steel (when cutting) have impact to the protective plastic of the laser and rugged/opacized it... result: LASER is NOT visible... to see it again i have to remove the plastic protection and laser is again visible... you have this problem? i am think for a solution... it's really strange that EVOLUTION have made this mistake when placing laser in this position... or the mitre saw is ONLY for wood??? best regard and thanks for video
Yes, a shop vac with a cyclone. However the dust extraction on this saw is still very poor. The dust collection for this saw is on my list of thigs to do and I should have a video on this early next year.
Can this saw use the other saw blades that evolution offers? Like the on for mild steel? Aluminum? Wood? Or stainless? Or does it only work with the multi cut blade?
Hi, it's Titan from Screwfix. To he honest I think it's quite good. Made a video recently about it if you want to check it out then here is the link ua-cam.com/video/NRtVV4SDPDI/v-deo.html
Why do so many people buy this saw for woodworking? Its made to run slow to cut metal, but also cut wood if needed. There are tons of options for woodworking miter saws.
Hi, nice video. I'm planing to use the miter saw to cut mild steel, I've seen some people saying that evolution blades don't last that long, do you have any experience cutting steel with the evulution blade and mitersaw?
I don't really use it to cut steel. Maybe on few occasions but not enough to state of its any good in the long run. I think they got special dedicated blades for cutting steel, the blue ones? But I may be mistaking
Hi Tomasz, is your saw's bed entirely flat? I have put straight edge across and found out that middle plate is 1-2mm higher than side supports. Straight edge just keeps rocking rendering this saw highly inacurrate.
Yes mine is flat. But if you can't return it or warranty is out then I suggest making a jig for your mitre saw like I did. Almost never take it off now.
has anyone made a zero clearance plate for this Evo Mitre saw? Is it even possible? the original plate doesn't have any screws so I'm not sure what's underneath and was hoping someone else was braver than me in taking the original one off 😕
Hi Tomasz, great info as usual, was wondering if you have come up with any better dust extraction solutions for the mitre saw yet? I have the R210SMS and have a cyclone system like yourself and dust is huge problem with the saw!
Hi and thank you. No not made anything for about 6 months now. But from June I'm back to posting regular videos again so that is on my list of things to do👍
Is the original cutting table of your Evolution level across all 4 surfaces? My is not. Each part of it is at different angle and height... I should have spent a tiny bit more and get Hikoki or Bosch.
4 surfaces? you got one table on each side of the blade. Do you mean the plastic clearance plate? If so then yes the orange plastic clearance plate is different than the side tables. Hence I'm using my zero clearance jig on it in most cases.
@@CasualDIY I think the correct wording for those 4 surfaces is cutting table and wings. So the cutting table is what rotates and is to both sides of the central plastic and cutting edge and two external cutting surfaces which make for the rest of standard base to it are the wings. I count main circular cutting surface as two (divided in half by the cutting edge) because in my case those are both at different angel and height to each other). So to answer your question by 4 cutting surfaces I mean all the shiny aluminum surfaces which are part of the standard base. In my case only the wings are level to each other, so the two outer and fixed in place surfaces. The rotating inner surface is not level to either of them and both of its sides split by cutting edge are not level to each other or anything else which makes the mitre saw kind of pointless as it cannot perform its main function :(. It does not cut square and never will as sold.
I went to local tool shop and checked about 15 different mitre saws. Only Evolution and one other, the cheapest smallest saw in the shop had this problem... very disappointing. I will see if I can still return mine or else I will be claiming warranty from Evolution as it is not fit for purpose. The funny thing is that even promotional picture on Evolution website shows the same issue... the promo picture has the table misaligned badly. I guess this is my first and last time I bought cheapo brand like Evolution. I will stick to big brands from now on. Hikoki being my favorite for good performance to price ratio for DIY. For same price as this Evolution I can get Hikoki 216mm which has rails going forward saving space behind. Hikoki is perfectly straight in compare plus its laser is actually usable and easily adjustable and will last for ever for my use with hopefully very accurate cuts.
This test is only if you want to saw with precision with a miter saw.(test is not intended for rough and hard work). Tips and Test: Very important if you would like to saw with precision. (avoid torsion as much as possible)! Always choose a Miter saw with a handle positioned in a VERTICAL line above the saw blade. Everything must be aligned, slide rails, handle, and saw blade,it is much better this way the blade will not tilt. Because there is some torsion in the aluminum housing . And choose an engine with softstart on it to prevent wear of the gear and worm shaft. It is very important that everything is aligned. Here are some examples to show how the handle must be positioned above the blade. List of first option saw : Bosch gcm 800 sj / Bosch gcm 8 sjl / Evolution rage 3 / FESTOOL KS 60 / Bosch GCM 8 SDE / FESTOOL KS 60 E KAPEX / Metabo KGSV 72 Xact / Bosch PCM 8 SD / Hitachi C10FSH / Ridgid MS255SR 10-inch / Evolution Fury3-S / Evolution R255SMS / Metabo HPT C10FSBS / Hitachi C10FSB / Hitachi C10FS. Second optie handle horizontal positioned above the saw blade / Evolution R185SMS / Evolution F255SMS / Evolution RAGE3R255 SMS3 . (This also is the case with the Miter saw without the slide rails). (If you want). You can test it yourself at home if there is torsion in the aluminum housing. Step-1. First you make a saw cut from +-5 mm deep in to a flat piece of wood about +- 20 mm thick to this with the normal handle positioned on the right side of the Miter saw (the wood it will remain in place until the test is completed). Step-2. Then repeat this by pushing the saw blade down with your hand (finger) on the aluminum protective cover were the saw blade is cased in. Just now only do this without the running engine. Step-3. Now you can see if the saw blade will be positioned in or next to the saw cut. If the saw blade is (+- 0,2 / 0,5 mm) next to the saw cut then there is torsion in the aluminum housing (test is completed). Step-4. Therefor it is much better to choose a Miter saw with the handle positioned VERTICAL in line above the saw blade. The second option is the handle positioned HORIZONTAL in line above the saw blade. Step-5. When you measure the vertical 90 degrees angle square (Digital Level Box) of you're sawblade don't forget that there is always some torsion in the aluminum housing. Conclusion:how further away the handle is from the saw blade how more chance of torsion in the aluminum housing don't go for that (the choices are yours). Also with a cheap slide miter saw it is still better the handgriff in line a above the saw blade than on the right side. Maybe they will make it someday then we have a winner...
How much of it is aluminium ? It looks a little “plastic”. Really thinking of buying one, but Can only get it online, so can’t feel it before it arrives 🤷♂️
I would say its a normal ratio. No more or less than the more expensive brands. Had no issues with it. Note to take - needs to be set up/ aligned out of the box and the dust extraction is terrible - like on most mitre saws.
Hi mate, I’ve just ordered the plus version of this after watching your video and as luck has its the lowest it’s been for years at £165 on Amazon. Btw I also got a Rage 5s after watching your video as well so you are costing me a bit of money lol. Anyhow, did you ever look into the dust collection on this, especially now you have a 3D printer?
@@CasualDIY You should be or they should at least send you stuff to test as I’m sure a lot have purchased evolution gear off your great reviews. Once I get mine I might see if I can design something for it. I’ll let you know if I do 👍
Hi Tomas. Thank you for all your videos - excellent stuff. Just like to say that you can fit all sorts of Blades to Evolution saws. I have Rage Table saw, Rage mitre saw (both 255mm) & have used 80pt from Saxton and Draper on both. The Evolutions are designed to run at lower RPM, so it's safe to use higher speed rated blades in them. All you need are reducers for the centres (came with Saxton anyways). On subject of blade swaps: just tried a 'Freud Pro' on my cheapo GMC plunge saw... Wow! Do I need to try one of these 'Bad Boys' (you're trademark acknowledged 😉) on one of the Evo's. Cheers!
They have a 25.4mm arbor. Not many blade manufacturers make 25.4mm blades. But you can get an adapter ring from axminster or similar to fit a more standard 30mm blade. Then you can fit pretty much any 250-254mm blade available
Hi there ! I like your video...but can I ask you about your table ?? I like it as well ..plase if you have a plan for that ....can you share with us ??Tamás from hungary
@@CasualDIY Actually I'm not so sure if it's actually all plastic. The model I mean is the R255SMS+, which looks a bit different but on the evolution site the weight and cast iron component are roughly the same as the standard R255SMS. Anyway, I went for it. Just hope I can fit it in somewhere as my space is tiny.
@@BestKiteboardingOfficial Quite right. It's now black and comes plastered with all sorts of marketing labels. But I own one now and can confirm that the baseplate is metal and the saw does a very good job.
Mine is ok. I set it up using an engineering quality tri-square. Problems; The blade is what you expect, tear out. There is play on the updown hinge in a left to right direction after 20 months. Evolution customer service was first class and picked it up, replaced the nylon bush and returned it. First class service. There's still a tiny bit of play so not great for very accurate cutting. There is side to side play on the compound slide too but I suppose where ever you have a moving part there will be play.
Check out my video on using different blades with the Evolution saw. Results are much better. Where it comes to the play that's what I would expect from a tool in this price range
You mentioned in this video, "You are probably only going to be able to use the Evolution blades which sometimes is not the best" but you have done videos in the past about using other blades on the Evolution. Which prompted a different opinion.
If you look closely when the videos were published then you will discover that this video was made before the video where I test other branded blades with this saw. And yes I have changed my mind. Other blades seem to work just fine with the Evolution saws. Although bear in mind you may loose your warranty if you do.
I wasn’t been nasty, and sorry your upset , but I have one years and can’t fault it,, I even bought a new one last week,,, set it up and all good , anyway if your doing reviews u have to except folk are going to comment specially when they are more than pleased with the product,, 😂😂
Not upset mate, information I provide is based on honest and true situation. So these were the findings I had with this saw. Its that simple. If someone else had a perfect tool with no issues that's great. For example my Rage 5S was almost perfect out of the box, where a lot of people had different experience. It's always worth to show all true possibilities, that's it.
Come on man,,, can u say anything good bout this saw,,, and if it’s so bad as u say why u still got the bloody thing,,, these saws are quality,,, can’t fault them at all,, maybe u are staining your so called jigs too much,, and it’s putting it out,, hilarious ,,, but u can’t beat a bit of comedy 😂😂😂
Well if you don't like the true information than ye go ahead and watch some comedy shows 👍review needs to show both the good and the bad. Potential customers need to know all aspects don't you think?
Had my eye on one of these for a couple of weeks now and today I got one at B&Q for a bargain £131. Very pleased.
It's a solid saw 👍
@@CasualDIY I think for £131 it's a bit of a bargain. Only real issue I can see is that the metal sides are ever so slightly lower than the rotating part so when holding pieces the piece rocks up slightly and will give an inaccurate cut. Easy fix I think is a shim of a layer or 2 of vinyl over the metal sides to get them even with the rotating part. The plastic sides need a slight shim also.
Actually, the rotating bit had a sticker over it, so removed that and it's as near straight on as I'll ever need.
I'm in the US, so we sometimes do not have the same brands of tools that you have access to, as in this case. However, I still like to view your reviews of said tools, because they (your reviews) are a good source of "things to look for when purchasing ANY (similar) tool". So, thank you for putting up this content; I look forward to the next!
Thank you so much for watching, that's true these tools are fairly similar and it's important to get the best one vs your budget 😁👍
It looks like Home depot sells this in the US. I'm not sure if they're sold in stores, but it looks like I can get it shipped for free to my local store at least. Which is why I'm here on YT looking at reviews. I'm in the market for a $200 and under miter saw. And this one is $195 at Home Depot.
Very fair review, most of the comments really apply to most mitre saws though (setting up, laser accuracy, lack of zero insert plate etc.) I use mine on the Evo Stand as it needs to be transportable, tbh it's a better stand than the DeWalt one I had, you aren't limited to Evo blades I have used various makes on mine by using a 25mm bore gauging ring, works perfectly I believe some other manufacturers are starting to make 25mm bore blades probably because the Evo's have been so popular, the dust collection leaves something to be desired, again that's a common complaint on most makes of mitre saw and fairly easily improved, overall the Evo saw is great, especially at the price, I use mine more than any other machine in the workshop or on site, currently I'm building your jig (slightly modified for my personal use) looks like a valuable addition, keep up the good work Tomasz (sorry if I've spelt your forename wrong btw)
Spelt it perfectly mate 😁👍 you see I got the Rage 5S as well but I'm bit reluctant in using different blades. But I think it's about time to just go and do it to see if other blades will work correctly. I read somewhere a while ago that if you put different blades than Evolution then this may void your warranty? Not sure how true is that...
@@CasualDIY These are the ones I use, 30mm to 25.4mm reducing bush/ ring, never had even the slightest hint of a problem bud, see: www.ebay.co.uk/itm/2-x-30mm-to-25-4mm-Circular-Saw-Blade-Reducing-Ring-Bore-Bushes-Bushing-Spacers/172864338616?ssPageName=STRK%3AMEBIDX%3AIT&_trksid=p2057872.m2749.l2649
I have the same saw and agree 100 percent with all your pros and cons comments of the review. I dont use the laser either. But the saw is accurate once set up. Great review mate modify the dust extraction mate it's worth it
Thanks mate, yes the dust extraction is on the list of things to do👍
@@CasualDIY Look forward to that one Thomas, the dust extraction or lack of it is a real pain in the.... 😬
@@seamusboden I know, let's hope it will improve with the amendments
I added a fabric "spray booth" with a box fan and 20x20 box fan which, along with a vac on the dust port keeps about 98% of all dust off the floor. Plenty falls in the "booth" but is easily sucked up when it really piles up. I plan to replace the booth with a plywood version but using the fan/filter idea. This is the one I got (in the US) HomeRight C900146 Air Flow Spray Shelter, Paint Booth, White. This is not a link, just the description.
Hmm that sound like a quite good idea 🤔
I never thought I'd need to look at buying a Mitre saw and brad nailer lol, but here I am. Thanks for reviewing x
Thank you for watching
Hi Tomasz. Thank you for this. I have the double bevel version. Just discovered the blade is not fully at 90° to the table. Do you know how to adjust this?
I think this video will help you out with it
ua-cam.com/video/_0-302T0ovw/v-deo.html
As you’re in the UK as I am, I have a Freud blade for fine cross cut with a bore ring from Tewksbury Saw and it works very very well. I have also modified the extraction but still not amazing. Def will consider building a hood but then it’s even bigger Dimentions. Thanks for the review.
I think it's time for me as well to try a different blade on this saw
It took me long enough... same here good man re results from your review. For the price, very happy. Now that I’m doing more precise work I have to check regularly for alignment which after some time is now consistent. Re extraction, also, there are casted bars in the casting inside the hole (I’m assuming to prevent bigger pieces of wood going through) which I’ll saw off as virtually every time gets clogged. I build also a small ‘shoe’ projecting forward to ‘invite’ saw dust into the hole in the casting. Re alignment, my saw, even when the front nob is right there is a little play left and right when putting lateral pressure on the handle of the saw. I have then set the saw fence in a way that exerting a small pressure towards right (or left as you may prefer) is perfectly square. This seems to weird very well. Basically is nullifying the play by pushing the handle laterally as long as the fence is set to be square when the play is voided. Hope this helps. (From other reviews I have seen, other saws that are slightly more expensive also have hiccups).
@@EquilibriaHealth I think most tools will have something wrong or just inconvenient about them. Got the same issue with the dust clogging up due to vertical things inside of the dust port. Especially when working with resin. And you say you managed to remove them, I probably have to do the same. I bought some rubber sheet that I was planning to use as a guide for the dust. Eventually I'll get around to that as well 👍😁
I have removed the bars yet as I’m mainly working with hard wood and I mainly work with hand tools. The problem only seems to happen when cutting soft wood creating long curls or chunks. I’ll modify it first and let you know how it goes. It seems to me a little flaw in the design as the port is 1) very small esp for larger kerf blades 2) not aligned well with the directing of the dust produced 3) no shoe. Re shoe, it’s a fine balance in having too short not noticing any big difference or tool long to get in the way of the saw casing and to interfere with the laser. I used a plastic section from a PVC large pipe moulded with a heat gun and screwed using existing fixings on the left (for the depth stop if I recollect correctly).
@@EquilibriaHealth ok cool thanks. PVA pipe that's a good idea as well. Although I need the depth stop I use it quite often. But for the rubber sheet I got some strong earth magnets that I think will do the job to hold and try the design first and then glue it on
As always honestly thanks for sharing your time and thoughts good video 🍺🍺👍👍👍👍
Thank you kindly my friend, thanks for watching 👍😁
Thanks Thomas. I have one of these and Would agree with your comments. Initially I started to use mine for picture frames. The results were appalling and still are , I now just use mine for general work such as cutting 4" X 2" and it's good enough for that. Regarding the lazar , this never worked properly no matter how I tried to reset it, so I just have it turned OFF all the time. The blade limitation due to a one size mounting hole which is unique to this machine and severely limits the choice , blade quality it's ok but not fantastic . Unlike yourself I do think this Evolution mitre saw can be beaten on price and quality. B and Q at the moment offer some good quality machines with better features for similar prices. Many thanks once again for your work.
You could be right, it's a tight market with those budget mitre saws and Evolution need to up their game to stay relevant.
Hello, what would you recommend as I was gonna buy this Evolution saw? Thanks in advance.
for wood work/cutting wood for a DIYer how good is it? Looking to get one for trim work and projects around the house. How good is it for wood @2500rpm's
Great review mate. I agree with your comments, it is limited but a great machine for general use.
Still haven't copied your jig yet! But I have made a new fence after mine snapped in two!
Your fence snapped it two? Wow how did that happen?
Casual DIY it snatched a piece of Oak and broke in the middle of the fence in two!
@@alfrose9831 Wow bit scary
Casual DIY yes.......it was! lol
Since it is a multi material saw, could you not make a zero curf insert?
You can 👍
I have this saw and built a copy of your miter jig which makes it work fine. Many thanks for that.
Here in the US almost all 10 inch blades have 5/8 inch arbor holes. Have you tried using such a blade by reversing the locking washer. They say you can in one place but then they say any third party blade will void the warranty. Anyone have any experience with this?
Yes that's what I've heard about the warranty as well🤔
Hope the jig does a good job for you 👍😁
Did you say only evolution blades will work with this?
That's what is recommended by Evolution. I think if you use a different blade you will loose warranty
They may obviously suggest their own blades but the saw can accomodate other blades of the correct size.
hi, and sorry for my bad english...
i buy the 255+ model and it look very impressive machine...
the only problem that i got is whit the laser guide: NO PROBLEM when cutting wood... BUT at my first STEEL cutting the laser guide vanish because the abrasive residues of steel (when cutting) have impact to the protective plastic of the laser and rugged/opacized it...
result: LASER is NOT visible...
to see it again i have to remove the plastic protection and laser is again visible...
you have this problem?
i am think for a solution... it's really strange that EVOLUTION have made this mistake when placing laser in this position... or the mitre saw is ONLY for wood???
best regard and thanks for video
Hi to be honest I don't use any laser in my tools I just find them as accurate.
After setting my saw up accurately it cuts pretty good close to the fence. But no matter what i do i can not get a straight cut using the slide
I would check the sliding rails if there is any slack or glaring issues.
@CasualDIY I've tried everything. Maybe I'm expecting too much from a budget saw. Anyway thanks for the reply. New to the channel and love it
@@tomco400 if it's still on warranty they maybe worth getting it replaced?
Have you got a set up to collect the dust?
Yes, a shop vac with a cyclone. However the dust extraction on this saw is still very poor. The dust collection for this saw is on my list of thigs to do and I should have a video on this early next year.
@@CasualDIY yes i have a set up for my thicknesser but it doesn't collect for this mitre errr
Can this saw use the other saw blades that evolution offers? Like the on for mild steel? Aluminum? Wood? Or stainless? Or does it only work with the multi cut blade?
Officially only recomend with Evolution blades. I have been using it with Saxton and Freud blades with no problems
Quick tip, on offer at present (March 2020) with the stand at half-price at Screwfix
Perfect mate, thanks for sharing 👍😁
what pillar drill is that on bench,and how do you like it
Hi, it's Titan from Screwfix. To he honest I think it's quite good. Made a video recently about it if you want to check it out then here is the link ua-cam.com/video/NRtVV4SDPDI/v-deo.html
Why do so many people buy this saw for woodworking? Its made to run slow to cut metal, but also cut wood if needed. There are tons of options for woodworking miter saws.
Good review. Something I noticed by the look of it, is you could do with a few more clamps 😀
Never enough of clamps 😅
Hi, nice video. I'm planing to use the miter saw to cut mild steel, I've seen some people saying that evolution blades don't last that long, do you have any experience cutting steel with the evulution blade and mitersaw?
I don't really use it to cut steel. Maybe on few occasions but not enough to state of its any good in the long run. I think they got special dedicated blades for cutting steel, the blue ones? But I may be mistaking
@@CasualDIY Thanks a lot for your quick replay man!! I'll give it a try with the mitersaw and the blue blade. You earned my subscription man :D
@@wiiperico thank you kindly 👍
Hi Tomasz, is your saw's bed entirely flat?
I have put straight edge across and found out that middle plate is 1-2mm higher than side supports. Straight edge just keeps rocking rendering this saw highly inacurrate.
Yes mine is flat. But if you can't return it or warranty is out then I suggest making a jig for your mitre saw like I did. Almost never take it off now.
has anyone made a zero clearance plate for this Evo Mitre saw? Is it even possible? the original plate doesn't have any screws so I'm not sure what's underneath and was hoping someone else was braver than me in taking the original one off 😕
I've attempted it but couldn't remove the original plate, broke it in one place so in the end I've left it alone
Hi Tomasz, great info as usual, was wondering if you have come up with any better dust extraction solutions for the mitre saw yet? I have the R210SMS and have a cyclone system like yourself and dust is huge problem with the saw!
Hi and thank you. No not made anything for about 6 months now. But from June I'm back to posting regular videos again so that is on my list of things to do👍
Very good machine
Cheap but solid👍
Is the original cutting table of your Evolution level across all 4 surfaces? My is not. Each part of it is at different angle and height... I should have spent a tiny bit more and get Hikoki or Bosch.
4 surfaces? you got one table on each side of the blade. Do you mean the plastic clearance plate?
If so then yes the orange plastic clearance plate is different than the side tables. Hence I'm using my zero clearance jig on it in most cases.
@@CasualDIY I think the correct wording for those 4 surfaces is cutting table and wings. So the cutting table is what rotates and is to both sides of the central plastic and cutting edge and two external cutting surfaces which make for the rest of standard base to it are the wings. I count main circular cutting surface as two (divided in half by the cutting edge) because in my case those are both at different angel and height to each other).
So to answer your question by 4 cutting surfaces I mean all the shiny aluminum surfaces which are part of the standard base. In my case only the wings are level to each other, so the two outer and fixed in place surfaces. The rotating inner surface is not level to either of them and both of its sides split by cutting edge are not level to each other or anything else which makes the mitre saw kind of pointless as it cannot perform its main function :(. It does not cut square and never will as sold.
I went to local tool shop and checked about 15 different mitre saws. Only Evolution and one other, the cheapest smallest saw in the shop had this problem... very disappointing. I will see if I can still return mine or else I will be claiming warranty from Evolution as it is not fit for purpose.
The funny thing is that even promotional picture on Evolution website shows the same issue... the promo picture has the table misaligned badly.
I guess this is my first and last time I bought cheapo brand like Evolution. I will stick to big brands from now on. Hikoki being my favorite for good performance to price ratio for DIY.
For same price as this Evolution I can get Hikoki 216mm which has rails going forward saving space behind. Hikoki is perfectly straight in compare plus its laser is actually usable and easily adjustable and will last for ever for my use with hopefully very accurate cuts.
This test is only if you want to saw with precision with a miter saw.(test is not intended for rough and hard work).
Tips and Test:
Very important if you would like to saw with precision. (avoid torsion as much as possible)!
Always choose a Miter saw with a handle positioned in a VERTICAL line above the saw blade.
Everything must be aligned, slide rails, handle, and saw blade,it is much better this way the blade will not tilt.
Because there is some torsion in the aluminum housing .
And choose an engine with softstart on it to prevent wear of the gear and worm shaft.
It is very important that everything is aligned.
Here are some examples to show how the handle must be positioned above the blade.
List of first option saw :
Bosch gcm 800 sj / Bosch gcm 8 sjl / Evolution rage 3 / FESTOOL KS 60 / Bosch GCM 8 SDE / FESTOOL KS 60 E KAPEX / Metabo KGSV 72 Xact / Bosch PCM 8 SD / Hitachi C10FSH / Ridgid MS255SR 10-inch / Evolution Fury3-S / Evolution R255SMS / Metabo HPT C10FSBS / Hitachi C10FSB / Hitachi C10FS.
Second optie handle horizontal positioned above the saw blade / Evolution R185SMS / Evolution F255SMS / Evolution RAGE3R255 SMS3 .
(This also is the case with the Miter saw without the slide rails).
(If you want). You can test it yourself at home if there is torsion in the aluminum housing.
Step-1. First you make a saw cut from +-5 mm deep in to a flat piece of wood about +- 20 mm thick to this with the normal handle positioned on the right side of the Miter saw (the wood it will remain in place until the test is completed).
Step-2. Then repeat this by pushing the saw blade down with your hand (finger) on the aluminum protective cover were the saw blade is cased in. Just now only do this without the running engine.
Step-3. Now you can see if the saw blade will be positioned in or next to the saw cut. If the saw blade is (+- 0,2 / 0,5 mm) next to the saw cut then there is torsion in the aluminum housing (test is completed).
Step-4. Therefor it is much better to choose a Miter saw with the handle positioned VERTICAL in line above the saw blade.
The second option is the handle positioned HORIZONTAL in line above the saw blade.
Step-5. When you measure the vertical 90 degrees angle square (Digital Level Box) of you're sawblade don't forget that there is always some torsion in the aluminum housing.
Conclusion:how further away the handle is from the saw blade how more chance of torsion in the aluminum housing don't go for that (the choices are yours).
Also with a cheap slide miter saw it is still better the handgriff in line a above the saw blade than on the right side. Maybe they will make it someday then we have a winner...
Saxton supply 80T 255mm x 25.4 bore blades for this saw
Yes done a video on that
Mine is great the only problems are dust collection is useless also I wish they had put bellow seals on the rear sliders
Yes they get a lot of dust on them very quickly unfortunately. I need to test few options and see which one will work best for me.
Does anybody know the best way to remove the insert? No screws and feels like it'll snap if I rip it up!
I cracked mine while trying to remove it so I left it alone lol
@@CasualDIY ha! Yeah, I think I was heading that way too!
How much of it is aluminium ?
It looks a little “plastic”.
Really thinking of buying one, but Can only get it online, so can’t feel it before it arrives 🤷♂️
I would say its a normal ratio. No more or less than the more expensive brands. Had no issues with it. Note to take - needs to be set up/ aligned out of the box and the dust extraction is terrible - like on most mitre saws.
Hi mate, I’ve just ordered the plus version of this after watching your video and as luck has its the lowest it’s been for years at £165 on Amazon. Btw I also got a Rage 5s after watching your video as well so you are costing me a bit of money lol. Anyhow, did you ever look into the dust collection on this, especially now you have a 3D printer?
Lol I wish I was on commission with Evolution now🤔🤣
Hehe so many years have passed and I'm still looking for a good dust collection on both saws
@@CasualDIY You should be or they should at least send you stuff to test as I’m sure a lot have purchased evolution gear off your great reviews. Once I get mine I might see if I can design something for it. I’ll let you know if I do 👍
So it only fits Evolution blades then?
Yes like all Evolution saws unfortunately 🤔
@@CasualDIY Saxton blades do a range of 25.4mm bore blades. I have an 80 tooth on mine and the cut is fab.
@@neilarmour4497 I need to try it out then🤔
Hi Tomas. Thank you for all your videos - excellent stuff.
Just like to say that you can fit all sorts of Blades to Evolution saws. I have Rage Table saw, Rage mitre saw (both 255mm) & have used 80pt from Saxton and Draper on both. The Evolutions are designed to run at lower RPM, so it's safe to use higher speed rated blades in them. All you need are reducers for the centres (came with Saxton anyways). On subject of blade swaps: just tried a 'Freud Pro' on my cheapo GMC plunge saw... Wow! Do I need to try one of these 'Bad Boys' (you're trademark acknowledged 😉) on one of the Evo's. Cheers!
They have a 25.4mm arbor. Not many blade manufacturers make 25.4mm blades. But you can get an adapter ring from axminster or similar to fit a more standard 30mm blade. Then you can fit pretty much any 250-254mm blade available
You're accent is awesome. Now I'll watch the video.
Hehe thanks 🤣
can you just put the evolution blade in a normal mitre saw to cut wood and metal ?? .
I wouldn't recommend that. Those blades are designed for slower RPMS. Not sure how that would affect your safety
@@CasualDIY Thanks for the reply so the evolution spins at a slower speed is that how it works to cut metal and wood . thank you
Hi there ! I like your video...but can I ask you about your table ?? I like it as well ..plase if you have a plan for that ....can you share with us ??Tamás from hungary
Hi, unfortunately I don't have any plans, just videos ua-cam.com/video/VTJSjHjZ7_k/v-deo.html
Hope they will help.
All the best
@@CasualDIY thank you so much for the Quick answer!!!!!!!Have good day !!
Have you tried the new Evolution fine wood blades?
Hmm I do have an Evolution wood blade and it's well just meh. Find the Saxton blades far better
Wow man!!!! How did you make that bench?!!!!
Hehe check my older videos it's all there 😁👍
The new version of this has a plastic base - wonder if that impacts accuracy and stability? This version appears to have been phased out.
Not sure. Not seen the other version
@@CasualDIY Actually I'm not so sure if it's actually all plastic. The model I mean is the R255SMS+, which looks a bit different but on the evolution site the weight and cast iron component are roughly the same as the standard R255SMS. Anyway, I went for it. Just hope I can fit it in somewhere as my space is tiny.
The newer model just has plastic end caps, the baseplate is still cast and machined
@@BestKiteboardingOfficial Quite right. It's now black and comes plastered with all sorts of marketing labels. But I own one now and can confirm that the baseplate is metal and the saw does a very good job.
Mine is ok. I set it up using an engineering quality tri-square.
Problems; The blade is what you expect, tear out.
There is play on the updown hinge in a left to right direction after 20 months. Evolution customer service was first class and picked it up, replaced the nylon bush and returned it. First class service. There's still a tiny bit of play so not great for very accurate cutting.
There is side to side play on the compound slide too but I suppose where ever you have a moving part there will be play.
Check out my video on using different blades with the Evolution saw. Results are much better. Where it comes to the play that's what I would expect from a tool in this price range
Ha ha, love your shirt!
Thanks👍
You mentioned in this video, "You are probably only going to be able to use the Evolution blades which sometimes is not the best" but you have done videos in the past about using other blades on the Evolution. Which prompted a different opinion.
If you look closely when the videos were published then you will discover that this video was made before the video where I test other branded blades with this saw. And yes I have changed my mind. Other blades seem to work just fine with the Evolution saws. Although bear in mind you may loose your warranty if you do.
Ok lad , wish I could keep my workshop was as tidy as yours , 😂😂
Hehe you don't see what's behind the camera 🤣
I wasn’t been nasty, and sorry your upset , but I have one years and can’t fault it,, I even bought a new one last week,,, set it up and all good , anyway if your doing reviews u have to except folk are going to comment specially when they are more than pleased with the product,, 😂😂
Not upset mate, information I provide is based on honest and true situation. So these were the findings I had with this saw. Its that simple. If someone else had a perfect tool with no issues that's great. For example my Rage 5S was almost perfect out of the box, where a lot of people had different experience. It's always worth to show all true possibilities, that's it.
Why not just say it's not very good.
Come on man,,, can u say anything good bout this saw,,, and if it’s so bad as u say why u still got the bloody thing,,, these saws are quality,,, can’t fault them at all,, maybe u are staining your so called jigs too much,, and it’s putting it out,, hilarious ,,, but u can’t beat a bit of comedy 😂😂😂
Well if you don't like the true information than ye go ahead and watch some comedy shows 👍review needs to show both the good and the bad. Potential customers need to know all aspects don't you think?